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THE  AMERICAN  TRAVELLER'S  GUIDE. 


HARPER'S  HAND-BOOK 

FOR 

TRAVELLERS  IN  EUROPE 

AND  THE  EAST: 


BEING  A  GUIDE  THROUGH 

GREAT  BRITAIN  AND  IRELAND,  FRANCE,  BELGIUM,  HOLLAND,  GERMANY,  AUSTRIA, 
ITALY,  EGYPT,  SYRIA,  TURKEY,  GREECE,  SWITZERLAND,  TYROL,  DEN- 
MARK, NORWAY,  SWEDEN,  RUSSIA,  SPAIN,  AND  PORTUGAL. 


BY  W.  PEMBROKE  FETRIDGE,  M.S.G., 

AUTHOR  OF  "THE  EISB  AJSD  FALL  OF  THB  PARIS  COMMTTNE,"  "UABPER'S  MEASE-BOOK,''  ETC. 

WITH  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  FIFTEEN  MAPS  AND  PLANS  OF  CITIES, 

IN    THREE    VOLUMES. 

VOLUME  II. 

GKRHAXY,  AUSTRIA,  ITALY,  EGYPT,  SYRIA,  TURKEY,  A>D  GREECE. 

TWENTY -FOURTH  YEAR. 


NEW  YORK:— HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS. 

PARIS:— LANEE,  8  RUE  DE  LA  PAIX.— GALIGNANT  &  CO.,  254  RUE  RIVOLI. 
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Flortnce,  (JOODBAJI.— Rome,  PIALE. 
Frankfort,  UMIT»RSAL  RKISK-BI-BSAU.—  Vienna,  GKKOLD  &  Co.— Berlin,  ASHZK  &  Co. 

1885. 


THE  Author  of  "Harper's  Hand-books"  wishes  to  inform  all  Hotel-keepers 
that  favorable  notices  of  their  houses  can  not  be  obtained  by  purchase ;  that 
complaints  of  dishonesty  or  inattention,  properly  substantiated,  will  cause  their 
houses  to  be  stricken  from  the  list  of  good  establishments. 


Favors  from  Travelers. — Although  the  Author  of  "Harper's  Hand-books"  has 
made  arrangements  to  keep  it  as  perfect  as  possible,  and  purposes  devoting  his 
time  to  that  purpose,  he  would  still  be  under  many  obligations  to  Travelers  if  they 
personally  note  any  inaccuracies  or  omissions,  and  transmit  them  to  him,  at  13 
Arenue  du  Bois  de  Boulogne,  Paris. 


iST  Advertisers  wishing  to  discontinue  their  advertisements  must  inform  the 
Publishers  on  or  before  the  1st  of  January  in  each  year,  that  the  necessary  altera- 
tions may  be  made  in  time  for  the  New  Edition. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1885,  by 

HARPER   &   BROTHERS, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


STACK  ANNQt 

ID 


PREFACE 

TO   THE  TWENTY-FOURTH  YEAR. 


THE  success  of  "Harper's  Hand-books"  for  over  twenty- 
years  has  stimulated  the  author  and  publishers  to  renewed  exer- 
tions to  make  it  the  most  correct  and  useful  work  of  the  kind 
published.  The  author,  who  resides  in  Europe,  spent  most  of 
the  year  1884  in  Great  Britain,  Ireland,  France,  and  Spain,  1883 
in  Italy  and  the  East,  and  1882  in  Belgium,  Holland,  Germany, 
Austria,  Great  Britain,  and  France.  All  of  these  countries  have 
been  entirely  rewritten,  :is  well  as  the  whole  of  Vol.  II.,  contain- 
ing Germany,  Austria,  Italy,  and  the  East,  while  most  important 
additions  and  corrections  have  been  made  in  the  descriptions  of 
other  countries,  which  will  be  found  to  vary  materially  from  the 
edition  of  1884. 

The  vast  amount  of  matter  now  collected  has  made  it  necessary 
to  divide  the  woi'k  into  three  volumes,  the  carrying  of  which  will 
be  found  more  convenient  to  the  tourist. 

The  corrections  are  all  brought  down  to  January,  1885,  which 
is  several  years  later  than  the  date  of  any  European  Hand-book 
of  travel.  The  advantages  of  this  are  evident.  New  lines  of 
railway  are  constantly  opened,  bringing  desirable  places  of  resort 
into  easy  communication  with  each  other,  which  before  were  sep- 
arated by  days  of  uncomfortable  posting. 

While  every  effort  has  been  made  to  secure  absolute  correct- 
ness in  the  work,  the  author  is  fully  aware  of  the  difficulty  of  at- 
taining perfection  in  this  respect.  As  the  London  Spectator,  in 
its  review  of  the  edition  of  1871,  justly  observed,  "The  labor  and 
incessant  attention  required  to  mark  the  changes  of  every  year 
must  be  a  severe  strain  on  any  man's  faculties."  The  corrections 
and  additions  amount  to  several  thousand  every  year;  but  the 
author  is  confident  that  no  important  errors  have  escaped  his  ob- 
servation, and  that  the  information  gathered  with  so  much  labor 


MO  PREFACE. 

will  be  found  to  be  correct  in  every  essential  particular.  An  ex- 
cellent new  map  of  Switzerland  has  been  expressly  engraved,  with 
sixty-nine  different  routes  marked  thereon ;  also  four  smaller  maps 
of  Switzerland.  A  large  map  of  Sweden,  Denmark,  and  Norway, 
with  numerous  plans  of  cities,  added  last  year,  have  been  supple- 
mented by  a  similar  map  of  England,  one  of  Scotland,  and  one  of 
Ireland ;  also  a  large  map  of  France,  Germany,  Italy,  and  Spain, 
with  two  hundred  and  thirty-four  routes  marked  thereon,  making 
in  all  four  hundred  and  thirty-nine  routes,  with  time  and  expense 
given,  some  general  information  on  the  United  States  of  America 
not  included.  Plans  are  given  of  all  the  principal  cities  in  these 
countries. 

A  new  general  map  of  Europe  has  been  substituted  for  the  old 
one.  The  Hand-books  now  contain  one  hundred  and  twenty 
maps,  plans,  and  diagrams  of  countries,  cities,  routes,  and  objects 
of  interest — three  times  as  many  as  are  given  in  any  other  Hand- 
book of  travel. 

W.  P.  F. 


PREFACE 


TO  THE  TWENTY-FOURTH  YEAR'S   ISSUE   OF   "HARPER'S  HAND- 
BOOKS FOR  TRAVELERS  IN  EUROPE  AND  THE  EAST." 

THE  remarkable  success  of  "Harper's  Hand-book, "first  published  in  1862,  has 
fully  realized  the  expectations  of  both  author  and  publishers,  the  instance  being 
very  rare  where  a  traveler  has  crossed  the  Atlantic  without  a  copy  in  his  possession 
or  in  that  of  one  of  his  party.  The  reason  of  this  great  success  is  very  evident ;  it 
is  not  compiled  from  hearsay  and  books  which  are  out  of  date,  and  of  no  possible 
use  to  the  traveler,  but  prepared  by  the  author  every  year  from  his  personal  expe- 
rience up  to  the  moment  of  going  to  press,  his  time  in  Europe  being  wholly  devoted 
to  that  purpose.  The  greater  portion  of  these  volumes  is  entirely  new,  and  dis- 
tinct from  the  last  year's  edition,  while  the  residue  has  been  revised  and  corrected 
up  to  the  present  moment. 

To  travel  without  a  guide-book  in  any  part  of  Europe  is  utterly  impossible ;  a 
man  without  one  being  like  a  ship  at  sea  without  a  compass — dragged  round  the 
country  by  a  courier,  and  touching  only  at  such  points  as  it  is  the  courier's  interest 
to  touch.  You  should  purchase  guide-books  or  remain  at  home. 

The  great  objection  to  foreign  guide-books  is  their  number.  To  make  the  tour 
of  Europe  (even  a  short  one  of  a  few  months),  the  traveler  has  formerly  been  com- 
pelled to  purchase  some  twenty-five  or  thirty  volumes  if  published  in  the  English 
language,  at  a  cost  of  sixty  or  seventy  dollars,  and  suffer  the  inconvenience  of 
carrying  some  twenty-five  pounds  of  extra  baggage,  and  over  one  hundred  vol- 
umes if  in  the  French  language,  one  house  alone  in  Paris  publishing  one 
hundred  and  twenty  volumes.  As  the  majority  of  American  travelers  do  not  re- 
main over  six  months  on  the  Continent,  they  dislike  to  be  compelled  to  carry 
about  a  small  library,  when  with  the  aid  of  a  good  Railway  Guide  and  the  present 
volumes  all  their  wants  may  be  supplied. 

The  intention  of  the  author  of  "  Harper's  Hand-books  "  is  to  give  a  distinct  and  clear 
description  of  the  best  manner  of  visiting  the  principal  cities  and  loading  places  of 
interest  in  France,  Germany,  Austria,  Russia,  Turkey,  Italy,  Egypt,  Syria.  Palestine, 
Switzerland,  Tyrol,  Denmark,  Norway,  Sweden,  Spain,  Great  Britain,  and  Ireland; 
to  give  the  modes  and  cost  of  traveling  the  different  routes  by  land  and  water,  and 
which  lines  are  to  be  preferred  ;  the  precautions  to  be  taken  to  insure  comfort  and 
security ;  names  and  charges  of  the  leading  hotels ;  the  most  responsible  houses  from 


542  PREFACE. 

which  to  make  purchases ;  all  the  items  in  reference  to  the  transportation  of  bag- 
gage, and  the  innumerable  number  of  small  charges  which  tend  to  swell  the  ac- 
count of  traveling  expenses.  By  a  careful  attention  to  the  tariff  in  such  cases, 
the  traveler  will  find  himself  the  gainer  by  fifty  per  cent. 

The  author  also  intends  to  give  the  names  of  the  principal  works  of  art  by  the 
leading  masters  in  all  the  different  European  galleries,  with  the  fees  expected  by 
the  custodians.  In  short,  he  intends  to  place  before  the  traveler  a  good  net-work 
of  historical  and  other  facts,  pointing  out  where  the  reader  may  obtain  fuller  in- 
formation if  he  desire  it. 

Of  course  it  is  impossible  for  perfect  accuracy  to  be  obtained  in  a  work  of  this 
description ;  for  while  the  author  is  watching  the  completion  of  the  beautiful 
mosque  of  Mehemet  AH  in  Cairo,  or  the  exquisite  restorations  that  are  being 
made  at  the  Alhambra  in  Granada,  a  new  bridge  may  be  erected  at  St.  Peters- 
burg, or  a  new  hotel  opened  at  Constantinople;  but- to  keep  the  information  con- 
tained herein  as  nearly  accurate  as  possible,  the  author,  in  addition  to  having 
made  arrangements  in  the  different  cities  to  keep  him  acquainted  with  any  im- 
portant changes  that  may  be  made,  requests  that  all  mistakes  or  omissions  noticed 
by  travelers  may  be  transmitted  to  13  Avenue  du  Bois  de  Boulogne,  Paris,  for 
which  he  will  be  extremely  thankful. 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  II. 


For  full  Particulars  of  Routes,  Historical  Sketches,  Excursions,  small  Cities,  Towns, 
etc^  see  General  Index  at  the  End  of  this  Volume. 

EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY Page  547 

Berliu,561;  Potsdam,  573  ;  Hildesheim,  577;  Hanover,  577  ;  Minden,579;  Rebmee, 
680;  Oberhutisen,  5SO:  Wesel,  681 ;  Diisseldorf,  581 ;  Cologne,  682;  Aix-la-Chapelle, 
685;  Brandenburg,  5S7 ;  Magdeburg,  5S7;  Duchy  of  Brunswick,  5SS;  Her/berg, 
5<»-2;  Steiuheim,  593 ;  Hamburg,  606;  L'ibeck,  596;  SchleswiL',  598 ;  Schwerin,  599  ; 
Bremen,  601 ;  Stettin,  603  :  Danzig,  604;  Kunigsberg,  607  ;  Frankfort.  COS  ;  Bres- 
lau,  609 ;  Route  No.  156,  610  ;  Route  No.  157,  612  :  Route  No.  15S,  614 ;  Wittenberg, 
616;  Dessau,  617;  Leipzig,  61U;  Weimar,  tj-J-_';  Gotha,  623:  Frankfort,  625;  Hom- 
burg,  627;  Ratisbon,  030;  Saxony,  C3-.' :  Dresden,  633  ;  Kis^iiigeu,  641  ;  Nurem- 
berg, 643  :  Munich,  648;  Stuttgart,  MB ;  Btraabnrg,  870 ;  Constance,  «73 ;  Worth, 
675;  Saarbruck,  677  ;  Bonn,  680  ;  Cobleutz,  6S3  ;  Mayeuce,  692 ;  Darmstadt,  696  ; 
Baden-Baden,  700 ;  Wildbad,  703. 

AUSTRIA 704 

Vienna,  708 ;  Prague,  722  ;  Salzburg,  729  ;  Trieste,  731 ;  Presburg,  734 ;  Pesth,  735; 
Varna,  738 ;  Baths  of  Gleicheuberg,  740. 

ITALY 741 

Rentes  and  Passes  into  Italy,  741 ;  Venice,  757  ;  Padua,  771 ;  Verona,  773 ;  Milan, 
780 ;  Como,  787  ;  Turin,  792  ;  Genoa,  799  ;  Mantua,  805  ;  Pisa,  809  ;  Bologna,  815  ; 
Ancoua,  822;  Florence,  826;  Civita  Vecchia,  842;  Rome,  846;  Naples,  Si5;  Pses- 
tum,  883 ;  Vesuvius,  884  ;  Pompeii,  886  ;  Ischia,  891 ;  Mileto,  893  ;  Scylla,  893  ; 
Taranto,  894. 

SICILY  AND  MALTA 895 

Sicily,  895;  Palermo,  897;  Syracuse,  901 ;  Messina,  903;  Catania,  904;  Malta,  906; 
Valetta,  910;  Catacombs  of  St.  Paul,  915. 

EGYPT 916 

The  Nile,  917  ;  Alexandria,  919 ;  Cairo,  921 ;  The  Pyramids,  926  :  Instructions  for  a 
Voyage  to  Upper  Egypt,  930 ;  BeiiiBOoef,  935 ;  Thebes,  939 ;  Edfoo,  941 ;  Phils,  943  ; 
Aboo-Simbel,  944. 

THE  DESERT 945 

Suez,  945 ;  Tours  from  Cairo,  946. 

SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE 953 

Jaffa,  955 ;  Jerusalem,  956 ;  Bethlehem,  967 ;  Dead  Sea,  969 ;  Nazareth,  973 ;  Damas- 
cus, 976 ;  Tyre,  979 ;  Cyprus,  981 ;  Ephesns,  982. 

TURKEY  AND  GREECE 983 

Smyrna,  9S3;  Constantinople,  984;  Isles  of  Greece,  990 ;  Athens,  993;  ^Egina,995; 
Coriuth,  997 ;  Mount  Parnassus,  999  ;  Tripolitza,  1000 ;  Pylos,  1002. 

TABLE  OF  COINS 1003 

INDEX. 


MAPS  AND  PLANS  OF  CITIES  IN  VOL.  II. 


Ancona,  822. 

Augsburg,  663. 

Austria,  704. 

Berlin,  861. 

Bologna,  816. 

Bonn,  CSO. 

Cairo,  921. 

Carlsruhe,  TOO. 

Coblentz,  684. 

Cologne,  582. 

Dresden,  633. 

Egypt  and  Northern  Nubia,  916. 

Europe,  in  Cover. 

Ferrara,  807. 

Florence,  826. 

—  the  Ufflzi  Gallery,  831. 
Frankfort,  626. 
Genoa,  799. 

Germany,  General  Map,  in  Cover,  and  p.  548. 
Greece  and  the  Ionian  Islands,  990. 
Hamburg,  595. 
Harwich  Route,  647. 
Harz  Mountains,  591. 
Hessische  Ludwigsbahn,  695. 
Italian  Lakes,  788. 
Italy,  General  Map  of,  in  Cover. 
Jerusalem,  956. 

Plan  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  962. 

Mayence,  692. 

Mantua,  805. 

Mediterranean,  the,  and  its  Coasts,  884. 

VOL.  II.— A  2 


Metz,  676. 

Milan,  730. 

Moselle,  from  Treves  to  Coblentz,  685. 

Munich,  649. 

Naples,  875. 

Museo  Natiouale,  879. 

Environs  of,  882. 


North  Western  of  Austria  Railway,  724. 

Nuremberg,  643. 

Palermo,  896. 

Palestine,  953. 

Pesth  andOfen,735. 

Pisa,  810. 

Pompeii,  8SC. 

Potsdam,  the  Emperor's  Garden,  574 

Prague,  720. 

Rhine,  the,  from  Basle  to  Baden,  679. 

from  Baden  to  Coblentz,  684. 

from  Coblentz  to  Diisseldorf,  681. 


Rome,  846. 

Ancient,  852. 

the  Forum,  850. 

the  Vatican,  860. 


Strasburg,  670. 
Thebes,  939. 
Trieste,  731. 
Turin,  792. 
Turkey  in  Asia,  984. 

—  in  Europe,  984 
Venice,  758. 
Verona,  773. 
Vienna,  708. 


THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY. 


POLITICAL  DIVISIONS.    [THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.]    POLITICAL  DIVISIONS. 


The  startling  events  produced  by  tlio 
Austrian  and  Prussian  War  of  1866,  and 
still  later  by  the  Franco-Prussian  War  of 
1870  and  1871,  have  realized  the  fondest 
dreams  of  German  -writers  and  German 
politicians,  that  of  a  common  nationality. 
The  wildest  hopes  of  Prussia  have  been 
realized,  and  not  only  is  Germany  to-day 
united  (with  the  exception  of  that  portion 
•which  belongs  to  the  Austrian  Empire),  but 
two  of  France's  most  populous  provinces, 
viz.,  Alsace  and  Lorraine,  comprising  5665 
square  miles  (nearly  one  thousand  square 
miles  larger  than  the  State  of  Connecti- 
cut), and  containing  over  one  and  a  half 
million  of  inhabitants,  have  been  added  to 
its  territory.  In  addition  to  the  territorial 
conquest,  France  has  been  compelled  to 
pay  live  milliards  of  francs  as  a  war  in- 
demnity, or  enough  to  cancel  all  the  regu- 
lar debts  of  the  empire  (viz.,  544,600,000 
thalers),  and  the  entire  railroad  debt  of  the 
country,  amounting  to  576,000,000,  leav- 
ing a  surplus  in  the  treasury  of  nearly 
236,000,000  dollars. 

The  modern  German  Empire  was  found- 
ed on  the  basis  of  treaties  concluded  be- 
tween the  North  German  Confederation 
and,  1st,  the  Grand-Duchy  of  Baden  and 
of  Hesse,  the  loth  of  November,  1870;  2d, 
the  Kingdom  of  Bavaria,  the  23d  of  Novem- 
ber, 1870;  3d,  the  Kingdom  of  Wurtem- 
berg,  the  25th  of  November,  1870.  The 
ratification  of  these  treaties  was  exchanged 
at  Berlin  on  the  26th  of  January,  1871,  and 
adopted  by  decree  of  the  16th  of  April, 
1871,  and  the  Constitution  of  the  United 
German  Empire  was  first  put  in  force  May 
4th,  1871.  The  presidency  of  the  empire 
belongs  to  the  crown  of  Prussia,  and  is 
hereditary  ;  King  William  I.,  of  Prussia, 
accepted  it  at  Versailles,  January  18, 1871, 
and  issued  an  address  to  the  German  peo- 
ple to  that  effect. 

The  imperial  power  is  restrained  in  cer- 
tain functions  by  the  Reichstag  (represent- 
atives'), freely  elected  by  the  German  peo- 
ple. The  Confederation  of  States  form  the 
Empire,  the  fundamental  points  of  which 
are  based  on  the  Constitution  of  the  North 
German  Confederation.  The  imperial 
power  exercises  the  exclusive  right  of  leg- 


islation on  all  military  and  marine  affairs, 
on  the  finances,  commerce,  post,  railroads, 
telegraph,  and  all  interior  matters  con- 
nected with  the  surveillance  and  inspec- 
tion of  the  empire  ;  on  all  foreign  and  in- 
ternational affairs,  the  right  to  declare 
war  and  conclude  peace  in  the  name  of 
the  empire ;  to  conclude  alliances  and  oth- 
er treaties  with  foreign  powers ;  to  ac- 
credit and  receive  all  foreign  representa- 
tives ;  to  settle  all  subjects  of  dispute  be- 
I  tween  the  federal  states ;  to  have  jurisdic- 
tion over  consuls,  and  in  cases  of  high 
treason. 

The  Federal  States  reserve  to  themselves 
the  right  of  issuing  and  regulating  mon- 
ey, weights,  and  measures ;  of  citizens  to 
change  their  domicile;  the  organization 
of  railroads,  of  municipal  and  commercial 
legislation ;  the  right  of  procedure  in  crim- 
inal and  civil  affairs ;  of  copyrights  and 
patents ;  all  matters  connected  with  the 
liberty  of  the  public  press  and  the  right 
of  public  meetings. 

The  army  of  the  empire  on  a  peace 
footing  is  427,274  men,  and  81,629  horses, 
of  which  there  are  274,602  infantry,  65,512 
cavalry,  the  remainder  being  composed  of 
other  branches  of  the  service ;  on  a  war 
footing  there  are  1,278,619  men,  31,646 
officers,  and  300,206  horses,  the  emperor 
being  commander -in -chief.  Each  sepa- 
rate state  of  the  confederation  furnishes 
its  respective  quota  of  men  and  horses 
for  the  imperial  army. 

The  navy  comprises  55  vessels  of  vari- 
ous sizes  (8  of  which  are  not  yet  com- 
pleted), 42  steam  and  5  sail,  carrying  484 
guns  of  different  calibre. 

The  receipts  and  expenses  of  the  gov- 
ernment are  a  little  over  $148,000,000  per 
annum. 


The  following  states  compose  the  Ger. 
man  Empire,  with  their  population  in  1873 
547 


POLITICAL  DIVISIONS.    [THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


Arm  in 

Enjrlish 
sq.  Miles. 

Population. 

Prussia  and  Lauenburg. 
Bavaria  

159,875 
29,628 
7,053 
5,918 
5,776 
4,345 
3,761 
'2,4-21 
1,531 
1,419 
971 
799 
707 
510 
461 
448 
433 
1,017 
331 

327 
207 
144 
151 
127 
106 
5,665 

27,278,911 

5,254,778 
1,971,118 
1,570,196 
2,972,805 
557,877 
85-2,894 
312,596 
311,764 
2S6,lS'j 
187,607 
174,339 
86,982 
142,123 
56,224 
89,032 
111,353 
203,437 
75,523 

60,191 
32,053 
45,094    : 
338,074 
52,158 
122,402 
1,510,738 
4S,622 
2,054 

Wiirtemberg  

Baden  

Saxony  

Mecklenburg-Schwerin.  . 
Hesse  

Oldenburg  

Brunswick  

1  Saxe-Weimtir  

S;ixp-Meiniiigen  

Saxe-Coburg-Gotha  
Mecklenburg-Strelitz  
Saxe-Altenburg  

Waldeck  

Reuss  (Younger)  

Lippe-Detmold  

Anhalt-  Dessau  

Schwarzb.-Rudolstadt.  .  . 
Schwarzburg  -  Sonders- 
hausen  

Lippe-Scbaumburg  

Reuss  (Elder)  

Hamburg  (free  city)  
Lubeck  

Bremen  

Alsace  and  Lorraine.  
Troops  in  garrisons  .  . 

Sailors  

Total  

235,301 

45,194,172 

These  states  extend  over  a  large  area 
of  Central  Europe,  between  the  Baltic  Sea 
on  the  north,  and  Austria  and  Switzerland 
on  the  south;  from  the  Netherlands  and 
the  North  Sea  on  the  west,  to  Austria  and 
Russia  on  the  east,  embracing  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  million  square  miles. 

Within  this  extensive  range  the  people 
are  nearly  throughout  German,  and,  with 
some  minor  modifications,  the  language, 
customs,  usages,  and  manners  are  the  same. 
It  is  in  regard  to  religious  and  social  in- 
stitutions that  the  chief  differences  are  to 
be  noted. 

These  different  states,  while  possessing 
many  characteristics  of  climate  and  natu- 
ral productions  in  common,  have,  at  least 
so  far  as  the  larger  of  them  are  concerned, 
some  features  which  are  peculiar  to  each. 

The  German  provinces  of  Austria  and 
Prussia  embrace  about  three  fifths  of  the 
entire  extent  of  German}- ;  the  remaining 
two  fifths  are  included  in  the  above  table. 
About  twenty-six  millions  of  the  popula- 
tion of  the  empire  are  Protestants,  and  six- 
teen millions  Roman  Catholics ;  a  little  over 
two  thirds  of  Prussia  belong  to  the  Prot- 
estantfaith,  while  three  fourths  of  the  King- 
dom of  Bavaria  are  firm  adherents  of  the 
548 


RIVERS,  ETC. 

!  Papal  Church.    A  little  over  half  a  million 
inhabitants  are  Israelites. 

The  northern  portion  of  Germany,  to- 
ward the  shores  of  the  North  Sea  and  the 
Baltic,  is  a  level  plain,  although  the  great- 
er portion  is  of  mountainous  aspect ;  the 
high  grounds  lie  to  the  south  and  south- 
west, and  the  entire  country,  as  shown  by 
the  course  of  its  rivers,  slo'pes  to  the  eas't 
and  north. 

The  rivers  of  Germany  are  some  of  the 
principal  in  Europe ;  the  Mine  and  Danube, 
in  the  south  and  west  of  the  country,  being 
two  of  the  greatest  importance  in  the  world, 
although  the  latter  flows  mostly  through 
Austrian  territory.     Rising  on  the  eastern 
|  slopes  of  the  Black  Forest,  crossing  the  Ba- 
varian plains  after  passing  through  a  por- 
tion of  Austria  and  Hungary,  it  empties 
its  waters  into  the  Black  Sea.     The  Rhine, 
taking  its  source  from  the  higher  Alps,  del 
scends  with  great  rapidity  through  a  wine- 
growing valley  of  supreme  loveliness  into 
the  flats  of  Holland,  and*  discharges  its  wa- 
ters into  the  North  Sea.     On  its  banks  are 
built  the  cities  of  Basle,  Mannheim,  May- 
I  ence,  Coblentz,  Bonn,  Cologne,  and  Dus- 
,  seldorf.    Germany's  other  principal  rivers, 
i  which  flow  into  the  North  Sea,  are  the  Elbe, 
\  Weser,  and  Ems.     The  former,  after  pass- 
:  ing  through  a  portion  of  the  Austrian  ter- 
i  ritory,  divides  the  ranges  of  the  Riesen- 
Gebirge  and  Erz-Gebirge,  and  continues 
its    course   in   a   northwesterly   direction 
to  its  outlet.     On  its  banks  are  built  the 
i  cities  of  Hamburg,  Magdeburg,  and  Dres- 
I  den.    The  Werra  and  Fulda,  the  first  draw- 
j  ing  its  waters  from  the  Thuringian  Forest, 
the  latter  from  the  Rhon-Gebirge,  unite  to 
|  form  the  Weser,  on  the  banks  of  which 
)  are  built  the  cities  of  Bremen  and  Minden. 
I  The  Oder  flows  directly  north,  the  whole 
i  of  its  course  being  through  the  Prussian 
dominions,  and  discharges  its  stream  in 
the  North  Sea.     There  are  also  the  rivers 
Niemen  and  Vistula,  streams  of  considera- 
ble importance. 

The  mountains  of  Germany  are  numer- 
ous, but  not  of  great  altitude,  averaging 
only  two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  lev- 
el, although  there  are  some  peaks  double 
that  height.  Toward  the  centre  are  the 
Erz  -  Gebirge  and  Riesen  -  Gebirge,  on  the 
borders  of  Bohemia  and  Saxony  ;  the 
Schwarz-Wald,  or  Black  Forest,"in  the 
southwest;  the  Fitchel-Gebirge  and  Sttiger 


GER  IS 


Grave  par  J.  Ceisendorfer,  2  r.  d£<3texier-ef  Paris. 


Harper's 


nA-Books 


MINERALS,  ETC. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


RAILWAYa 


Wold;  the  Thuringer  Wald  and  Oden- 
Wald;  the  Spessart  Rhon-Gebiryf,  Vogels- 
Gebirge;  the  Taunus,  Elbe-Gebirge,  Harz, 
and  numerous  others  of  lesser  importance. 
The  Harz  is  the  most  northerly  range  in 
Germany,  being  principally  located  in 
Hanover,  and  particularly  rich  in  lead  and 
silver  mines,  which  form  the  chief  product 
of  the  Kingdom  of  Hanover. 

The  mineral  productions  of  Germany  are 
exceedingly  rich  and  numerous.  The  Erz- 
Gebirge,  on  the  borders  of  Saxony  and  Ba- 
varia, produce  iron,  lead,  nickel,  zinc,  sul- 
phur, and  arsenic,  and  other  minerals  rich 
in  value  and  in  great  abundance.  The 
Harz  mountains  produce  lead,  silver,  iron, 
copper,  zinc,  and  small  quantities  of  gold. 
Nickel  is  largely  produced,  and  is  employed 
in  the  manufacture  of  German  silver,  and 
as  a  substitute  for  bronze  in  forming  casts 
of  sculpture,  being  much  cheaper  and  pos- 
sessing all  the  requisite  durability ;  it  is 
also  susceptible  of  receiving  a  fine  metallic 
surface,  closely  resembling  bronze.  Ger- 
many exports  large  quantities  of  stone, 
used  especially  by  lithographers  in  all 
countries ;  it  is  found  in  Solenhofen,  Ba- 
varia. Coal  is  found  in  large  quantities, 
the  basin  of  the  Sarre — a  tributary  of  the 
Moselle — being  exceedingly  rich  in  that 
mineral.  Precious  stones,  such  as  topaz, 
amethyst,  opal,  turquois,  agate,  jasper, 
and  rock-crystal,  are  found  in  abundance. 

The  climate  of  Germany  is  generally 
healthy  and  temperate  ;  the  southern 
states  are  warm  and  sheltered,  but  toward 
the  Baltic  the  winters  are  severe,  the  weath- 
er raw,  changeable,  and  foggy.  The  soil  is 
generally  productive,  especially  that  bor- 
dering on  the  rivers ;  that  of  the  north, 
being  heavy,  is  better  adapted  for  corn ;  in 
the  middle  districts,  between  the  sandy 
plains  of  the  north  and  the  mountains  of 
the  south,  the  soil  is  best.  In  the  south, 
the  soil  being  light,  is  more  suited  to  the 
growth  of  the  vine,  particularly  that  bor- 
dering on  the  east  bank  of  the  Rhine,  be- 
longing to  the  states  of  Baden,  Hesse,  and 
the  former  state  of  Nassau,  which  has  a 
•warmer  climate  and  richer  soil  than  any 
other  portion  of  Germany.  Here  grapes 
of  the  finest  quality  are  grown. 

There  are  extensive  forests  in  all  parts 
of  Germany,  which  alternate  in  the  north 
•with  marshy  and  heath-covered  districts. 
Wild  animals  are  numerous ;  among  them, 


the  boar,  the  wild  stag,  and  fox.  The 
game  birds  are  the  geese,  bustards,  ducks, 
grouse,  black-cocks,  and  woodcocks. 

The  railways  of  Germany  have  been 
rapidly  increasing  during  the  last  twenty 
years,  and  a  glance  at  our  new  map  of 
Germany,  just  engraved  (1876),  will  show 
to  what  an  extent  they  have  attained. 
There  is  now  11,000  miles  in  running  order, 
having  cost  four  milliard  two  hundred 
millions  of  marks,  which  is  double  the 
number  in  running  order  at  the  close  of  the 
French  war.  In  1870  Prussia  possessed  a 
German  mile  of  railway  to  every  15, 000  in- 
habitants, now  (January,  1876)  the  propor- 
tion has  risen  to  one  mile  (4f-  English  miles) 
to  every  10,805.  Fifty  pounds  of  baggage 
is  the  weight  allowed  free  ;  all  over  that 
must  be  paid  extra.  On  each  article  is 
pasted  a  numbered  ticket,  a  corresponding 
number  is  given  to  the  owner,  which  must 
be  produced  at  the  end  of  the  journey  to 
reclaim  the  baggage.  It  is  well  to  ask 
when  the  number  is  being  affixed  to  the 
different  pieces  if  it  be  the  same  as  that 
given  you,  as  sometimes  in  haste  the  por- 
ters paste  on  the  wrong  number,  when 
much  annoyance  is  created,  especially  if 
the  destination  of  both  parties  be  not  the 
same. 

Few  Germans  ride  in  first-class  car- 
riages ;  and  it  is  an  old  saying  that  only 
"princes,  Americans,  and  fools  ride  first- 
class  ;"  but  it  is  a  saying  mostly  in  the 
mouths  of  stingy  people.  If  the  American 
can  afford  it,  there  is  no  position  in  which 
he  can  be  placed  where  he  will  enjoy  the 
luxury  of  money  more ;  if  on  a  long  jour- 
ney you  may  have  the  compartment  all 
to  yourself,  instead  of  being  crowded  in 
with  seven  others  during  a  warm  day  or 
night,  suffocated  with  pipe-smoke  or  bad 
cigars. 

"  Hendschell's  Eisenbahn  Telegraph" 
contains  the  time-tables  of  all  the  Ger- 
man lines,  and  is  most  admirably  arranged. 
Ladies'  cars  are  attached  to  all  the  trains, 
and  on  the  principal  lines  one  of  "  Mann's 
elegant  boudoir  sleeping-cars."  Travel- 
ers not  speaking  the  German  language,  and 
not  traveling  with  a  courier,  should  by  all 
means  provide  themselves  with  one  of 
Harper's  Phrase  -  books  before  leaving 
America,  otherwise  they  will  find  con- 
siderable difficulty  in  getting  along,  and 
must  expect  occasionally  to  be  the  victims 
549 


MONEY. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


HISTORY. 


of  cab-drivers,  waiters,  and  commission- 
aires, although  in  nearly  all  the  hotels  rec- 
ommended in  this  work  they  will  find 
persons  speaking  the  English  or  French 
language. 

The  German  Customs  League.—  Former- 
ly every  different  state  in  Germany  had 
its  own  custom-houses,  its  own  tariff 
and  revenue  laws,  which  frequently  dif- 
fered very  widely  from  those  of  its  neigh- 
bors. Each  petty  state  endeavored  to  pro- 
cure a  revenue  for  itself,  or  to  advance  its 
own  industry  by  taxing  or  prohibiting  the 
productions  of  those  by  which  it  was  sur- 
rounded, and  customs'  officers  and  lines  of 
custom-houses  were  spread  over  the  coun- 
try, instead  of  being  reciprocal  and  depend- 
ent. Now,  throughout  the  whole  extent 
of  this  immense  country,  there  is  nothing 
to  prevent  the  freedom  of  commerce.  A 
commodity,  whether  for  consumption  or 
transit,  that  has  once  passed  the  frontier 
of  the  League,  may  be  subsequently  con- 
veyed without  let  or  hinderance  through- 
out its  whole  extent. 

Money. — Nearly  throughout  the  entire 
empire  the  old  coinage  of  thaler  and  florin 
has  disappeared,  and  the  mark  and  pfennig 
are  the  legal  coins  of  the  realm.  The  dec- 
imal system  was  adopted  by  law  in  1871, 
and  is  applied  to  weights  and  measures  as 
well  as  to  money.  Accounts  are  now  kept 
in  marks,  groschens,  and  pfennigs  :  1  mark 
=10  groschens  =  100  pfennigs.  The  mark 
is  nearly  equal  to  our  25-cent  piece,  or 
our  English  shilling — the  exchange  will 
make  it  cost  that — and  is  a  handsome  coin. 
The  gold  coins  are  20  marks  =  $5,  and  10 
marks  =  $2  50.  On  one  side  they  bear  the 
imperial  eagle,  with  the  words  "  Deutsches 
Reich"  (German  Empire),  the  reverse  va- 
rying according  to  the  state  which  coins 
the  piece. 

As  the  old  coin,  the  thaler,  has  not  en- 
tirely disappeared,  the  traveler  will  re- 
member that  that  coin  about  equals  75 
cents  ;  its  third,  25  cents,  or  1  mark  ;  its 
sixth,  12^  cents ;  and  its  2|  groschen  pieces 
6J  cents.  By  noticing  these  pieces  a  few 
times  their  relative  value  will  become  ap- 
parent. 

Length. — The  metre  is  the  same  as  the 
French,  or  39^56ff8i7  American  inches,  the 
standard  of  linear  measure  intended  to 
be  the  ten-millionth  part  of  the  distance 
from  the  equator  to  the  north  pole,  as  as- 
.550 


certained  by  actual  measurement  of  an  arc 
of  the  meridian.  The  centimetre  is  one- 
hundredth  part  of  the  metre,  and  the  kilo- 
metre equals  one  thousand  metres ;  7000 
metres  =  one  German  mile,  which  is  about 
•if-  English  miles. 

In  surface  measurement  the  square  metre 
is  the  basis,  and  in  capacity  the  cubic  me- 
tre. The  litre  is  the  unit,  and  is  the 
TcfeiT  Part  of  *^e  cubic  metre.  In  weight 
the  kilogramme  is  the  unit.  This  equals 
one  thousand  grammes,  or  about  2.67951 
pounds  troy,  or  2.20485  avoirdupois.  It  is 
by  law  equal  to  the  weight  of  a  cubic  de- 
cimetre of  distilled  water,  at  the  tempera- 
ture of  maximum  density,  or  39°  Fahr. 

Germany — with  the  ancients,  Germania ; 
in  German,  "Deutschland."  From  1815 
until  1866  the  denomination  Germany  re- 
ferred more  particularly  to  the  parts  be- 
longing to  the  German  Confederation. 
Thus  determined,  Germany  consisted  of 
35  states  of  very  unequal  extent,  whose 
population  amounted  to  about  44,000,000 
inhabitants. 

After  the  treaty  of  Prague  Germany  was 
divided  into  two  parts  : 

1st.  The  Confederation  of  the  North, 
composed  of  22  states,  namely  : 

The  Kingdom  of  Prussia,  whose  head  is 
President  of  the  Confederation. 

The  Kingdom  of  Saxony. 

The  grand-duchies  of  Saxe- Weimar,  of 
Mecklenburg-Schwerin,  of  Mecklenburg- 
Strelitz,  of  Oldenburg,  and  of  Hesse-Darm- 
stadt, mostly  lying  north  of  the  Main. 

The  duchies  of  Brunswick,  of  Saxe- 
Meiningen,  of  Saxe-Altenburg,  of  Saxe- 
Coburg-Gotha,  and  of  Anhalt. 

The  principalities  of  Schwarzburg-Rudol- 
stadt,  of  Schwarzburg-Sondershausen,  of 
Lippe,  of  Waldeck,  of  Reuss  (elder  branch), 
of  Reuss  (younger  branch),  and  of  Schaum- 
burg-Lippe. 

The  free  towns  of  Bremen,  Lubeck,  and 
Hamburg. 

2d.  The  kingdoms  of  Bavaria  and  Wiir- 
temberg. 

The  grand-duchies  of  Baden  and  Hesse- 
Darmstadt,  mostly  lying  south  of  the  Main. 

The  principality  of  Lichtenstein. 


For  a  long  time  known  under  the  name 
of  Germany,  this  vast  country  was,  after, 
the  invasion  of  the  barbarians,  divided 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


HlSTui-.Y. 


among  numerous  independent  tribes,  up  to 
the  period  when  Charlemagne  subdued 
and  annexed  them  to  his  empire.  After 
the  death  of  the  Conqueror  (814),  how- 
ever, these  various  elements,  compulsive- 
ly united,  soon  tended  to  separate  again  : 
and  the  treaty  of  Verdun,  signed  (843)  by 
the  sons  of  Louis  le  Debonnaire,  gave  birth 
to  the  kingdom  of  Germany  (which  ac- 
knowledged  for  its  sovereign  Louis,  sur- 
mmed  the  Germanic,  the  third  son  of 
Louis  le  Debonnaire),  as  well  as  to  those 
of  Alemannia  and  Bavaria,  which  shortly 
after  blended  with  the  above  mentioned 
under  the  name  of  Germany. 

Definitively  separated  from  France  and 
Italy  after  the  deposition  of  Charles  le 
Gross,  887,  Germany  was  still  for  some 
time  governed  by  Carlovingian  princes — 
Arnold  of  Carinthia,  and  Louis  IV.,  sur- 
named  V Enfant,  887-911. 

This  family  being  extinct,  the  mon- 
archy became  elective.  The  crown  was 
then  bestowed  on  Conrad  I.,  duke  of 
Franconia.  Henri  I.,  1'Oiseleur,  succeeded 
him  in  919,  and  was  the  head  of  the  house 
of  Saxony,  which  gave  Germany  five  sov- 
ereigns, and  nearly  restored  in  the  person 
of  Otho  the  Great  the  empire  of  Charle- 
magne, 962-973. 

From  this  reign  the  imperial  crown, 
which  had  alternately  devolved  on  French, 
German,  and  Italian  kings,  began  exclu- 
sively to  belong  to  Germany,  which  then 
assumed  the  title  of  Holy  Roman  Empire 
of  the  German  Nation.  The  house  of  Sax- 
ony annexed  to  the  empire  Lotharingia, 
Bohemia,  and  Germany. 

To  the  house  of  Saxony  succeeded  that 
of  Franconia,  1024-1125,  which  added  to 
the  dominions  of  the  empire  the  kingdom 
of  Aries,  and  was  noted  for  its  differences 
with  the  Holy  See. 

The  house  of  Suabia,  or  Hohenstaufen, 
next  ascended  the  throne  :  two  sovereigns 
of  this  house,  Conrad  III.  and  Frederick 
Barbarossa,  brought  to  its  highest  degree 
the  imperial  power,  1138-1190 ;  but  their 
successors,  attacked  both  by  their  vassals 
and  the  popes,  and  frequently  deposed, 
sunk  into  most  ignominious  helplessness. 
Their  reigns  were  disturbed  by  the  inces- 
sant strifes  of  the  Gnelfs  and  Ghibellines. 

On  the  death  of  Conrad  IV.  begins  a 
protracted  interregnum,  1254-1273,  during 
which  German}'-  fell  a  prey  to  anarchy. 


HISTORY. 


The  authority  of  the  imperial  crown 
was  somewhat  restored  by  the  valor  of  Ru- 
dolph of  Hapsburg,  1273^1291 ;  but  under 
his  immediate  successors  and  the  princes 
of  Bavaria  and  Luxemburg  the  power  of 
the  great  feudatories  and  the  electors  of 
the  empire  was  seen  daily  to  increase. 
Their  rights  were  publicly  sanctioned  by 
the  far-famed  "  Golden  Bull,"  the  edict  of 
Charles  IV.,  1356. 

In  1438  Albert  of  Hapsburg  was  elected 
emperor,  and  became  the  head  of  the  cele- 
brated house  of  Austria.  Charles  V., 
fourth  sovereign  of  this  house,  elected  1519, 
gloriously  revived  the  power  of  the  em- 
perors ;  his  arms  were  successful  against 
Francis  I.,  and  he  gave  for  a  time  the  pre- 
ponderance to  Germany  ;  but  was  power- 
less against  the  Reformation. 

Ferdinand  I.,  Charles's  brother,  reigned 
wisely ;  and  after  him  no  important  change 
took  place  in  Germany  until  the  accession 
of  Ferdinand  II.,  under  whom  began  the 
"Thirty -years  War,"  1618-1648,  which 
ended  in  the  Peace  of  Westphalia,  and 
whose  result  was  a  decrease  in  the  power 
of  Germany,  the  supremacy  of  France,  and 
confirmation  of  the  Lutheran  religion. 

The  reigns  of  Leopold  I.,  of  Joseph  I., 
and  of  Charles  VI.  were  filled  up  by  pro- 
tracted wars  against  Louis  XIV.  and  Louis 
XV. 

The  demise  of  Charles  VI.  was  the  oc- 
casion of  the  war  for  the  "succession  of 
Austria,"  which  gave  the  crown  to  the 
husband  of  Maria-Theresa,  Charles  VI.'s 
daughter,  and  thus  established  on  the 
throne  the  House  of  Lorraine  in  the  per- 
son of  Francis  I. 

Finally,  in  1806,  the  German  Empire 
ceased  to  exist,  in  consequence  of  the  ab- 
dication of  the  Emperor  Francis  II.,  who 
henceforth  only  reigned  over  his  heredi- 
tary states  with  the  title  of  Emperor  of 
Austria. 

Most  of  the  small  states  which  before 
composed  the  Empire  of  Germany  then 
united  under  the  name  of  "  Confederation 
of  the  Rhine  "  and  the  protectorate  of  Na- 
poleon. These  were : 

The  kingdoms  of  Bavaria,  Wurtemberg, 
Saxony,  Westphalia. 

The  grand-duchies  of  Frankfort,  Ba- 
den, Berg  and  Cleves,  Hesse-Darmstadt, 
Wurtzburg,  Saxe-Weimar. 

The  duchies  of  Saxe-Gotha,  Saxe-Mein- 
551 


CONSTITUTION. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


GOVERNMENT. 


ingen,  Saxe-Hildburghausen,  Saxe- Co- 
burg  -  Saalfeld,  Mecklenburg  -  Schwerin, 
Mecklenburg-Strelitz. 

The  principalities  of  Nassau  -  U singen, 
Nassau  -Weilburg,  Hohenzollern  - Hechin- 
gen,  Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen,  Isenburg- 
Birstein,  Lichtenstein,  La  Laj'en,  Anhalt- 
Bernburg,  Anhalt-Kb'then,  Anhalt-Dessau, 
Lippe-Detmold,  Lippe-Schaumburg,  Reuss- 
Ebersdorf,  Reuss-Greitz,  Reuss-Lobenstein, 
Reuss-Schleitz,  Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt, 
Schwarzburg  -  Sondersbausen,  Waldeck, 
Lubeck,with  the  Duchy  of  Holstein-Olden- 
burg. 

The  events  of  1815  further  modified  this 
state  of  things. 

To  the  "Confederation  of  the  Rhine" 
•was  substituted  the  ':  Confederation  Ger- 
manique,"  but  on  the  same  plan,  the  pro- 
tectorate of  which  was  again  bestowed  on 
the  Emperor  of  Austria,  but  without  the 
title  of  emperor. 

In  the  years  1848-49  it  was  attempted  to 
constitute  a  Military  Germany ;  a  National 
Assembly  was  called  together  at  Frank- 
fort to  replace  the  Diet  of  former  times ; 
the  old  order  of  things  was  restored  in 
1850;  but  Prussia,  victorious  at  Sadowa 
(July  3, 1866),  constituted  Germany  as  it  at 
present  is,  Austria  being  excluded  from  it. 

The  Constitution  of  the  Empire. — The  Em- 
pire of  Germany  had  been  under  the  Car- 
lovingians  an  hereditary  monarch}'.  When, 
after  them,  the  sovereignty  became  elect- 
ive, the  election  at  first  devolved  upon 
the  universality  of  the  six  nations  forming 
the  Germanic  body  (Franks,  Suabians,  Ba- 
varians, Saxons,  Lotharingians,  Prisons). 
It  became  at  a  later  period  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  princes  or  great  feudatories 
(1156);  it  then  concentrated,  first  from 
mere  custom,  but  afterwards  by  virtue  of 
the  "  Golden  Bull,"  into  the  hands  of  seven 
electors.  The  pope  used  originally  to 
anoint  and  crown  the  emperor;  but  Louis 
the  Bavarian  declared,  in  1338,  that  this 
ceremony  was  superfluous,  and  that  the 
emperor,  elected  by  a  majority,  was  legit- 
imate emperor  by  virtue  of  this  election. 

The  emperors,  in  order  to  secure  the 
hereditament  of  the  crown  in  their  houses, 
had  their  successors  crowned  in  their  own 
lifetime ;  the  heir  apparent  assuming  the 
title  of  King  of  the  Romans.  The  first  King 
of  the  Romans  was  Henri,  the  son  of  the 
Emperor  Frederick  II.,  1228. 
552 


The  coronation  of  the  emperors  general- 
ly took  place  at  Frankfort-on-the-Main, 
when  the  elected  emperor  signed  a  ca- 
pitulation determining  and  limiting  his 
rights.  He  was  bound  to  convoke  the 
States-General,  or  the  Diet,  not  only  for 
the  making  of  laws,  but  likewise  for  the 
dispatch  of  the  affairs  of  the  empire  in 
general;  viz.,  dec-hiring  war  or  negotiat- 
ing peace  ;  sending  or  receiving  ambassa- 
dors ;  he  even  required  the  consent  of  the 
Diet  in  matters  of  collation  of  benefices  or 
important  fiefs,  and  especially  for  the  rais- 
ing of  taxes. 

The  composition  of  the  states  was  as 
follows : 

1st.  Ecclesiastical  members  —  viz.,  the 
ecclesiastical  princes,  electors  ;  the  arch- 
bishops and  bishops,  the  priors,  the  abbots, 
the  Grand -master  of  the  Teutonic  Order 
and  that  of  the  Order  of  St.  John. 

2d.  Secular  members — viz.,  the  secular 
princes,  electors ;  the  dukes,  the  princes, 
the  landgraves,  margraves,  burgraves,  the 
counts,  and  finally  the  imperial  towns. 

Business  was  transacted  in  three  col- 
leges :  1st,  The  college  of  the  princes,  elect- 
ors ;  2d,  that  of  the  princes ;  3d,  that  of 
the  imperial  towns.  Each  college  deliber- 
ated separately,  and  the  unanimity  of  their 
votes  was  requisite  to  impart  legal  force  to 
their  decisions,  which  received  then  the  de- 
nomination of  Recess  of  the  Empire. 

The  establishment  of  the  Confederation 
of  the  Rhine,  while  bringing  the  old  em- 
pire to  an  end,  destroyed  at  the  same  time 
its  constitution.  Each  of  the  principalities 
of  which  it  was  composed  became  wholly 
independent  as  to  its  interior  government ; 
and  the  unity  of  Germany  was  henceforth 
confined  to  the  relations  of  the  country 
with  foreign  powers. 

The  Confederation  Germanique  was  es- 
tablished on  the  same  principle  (1815). 
The  functions  of  the  Diet  were  restricted 
to  three  principal  points :  1st,  The  uphold- 
ing of  the  Federal  States'  independence  or 
exterior  security ;  2d,  the  preservation  of 
peace  among  the  Federal  States,  or  interior 
security ;  3d,  intervention  for  the  restoring 
of  peace  and  quiet  among  the  Federal  States. 
Affairs  were  transacted  in  a  Diet  sitting 
at  Frankfort.  The  powers  there  represent- 
ed were  granted  a  number  of  votes  in  keep- 
ing with  their  respective  importance.  The 
now  organization  does  not  interfere  with 


SOVEREIGNS. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


SOVEREIGN^ 


the  autonomy  of  the  southern  states,  and 
forms  a  Confederation  of  the  North,  includ- 
ing three  powers :  the  Presidency,  which 
belongs  to  Prussia ;  the  Federal  Council, 
composed  of  the  representatives  of  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Confederation  (43  votes)  ;  and 
the  Reichstag,  or  Parliament,  whose  mem- 
bers are  returned  by  means  of  universal 
and  direct  elections. 

SOVEREIGNS  OF  GERMANY. 

CAKLOVINGIAN8.  A.D. 

Charlemagne,  emperor 800-814 

Louis  le  Uiibonnaire,  emperor 814-840 

Lothair  I.,  associated  with  the  em- 
pire 817  ;  emperor 840-855 

Louis  II.,  king  of  Germany,  843; 

emperor 855-876 

Charles  the  Bald,  emperor S76-87T 

Carlomau,  king  of  Bavaria 876-880 

Louis  III.,  the  Saxon,  king  of  Ger- 
many    876-881 

Charles  le  Grots  king  of  Alemanniu, 
or  Germany,  876;  emperor  and 

king  of  Germany 8S1-8S7 

Arnold  (a  natural  son  of  Carloman), 

king  of  Germany,  8S7 ;  emperor.  890-899 
Louis  IV.,  1'Eufaut,  king  of  Ger- 
many   899-911 

IIOUSE   OF   FUANCONIA. 

Conrad  I.,  of  Franconia,  king 912-918 

HOUSE  OF  SAXONY. 

Henri  I. ,  1'Oiseleur,  king. 919-936 

Otho  I.,  the  Great,  king,  936 ;  em- 
peror     962-973 

Otho  II.,  king,  962 ;  emperor. 973-983 

Otho  III.,  king,  983;  emperor 996-1002 

Henri  II.,  le  Saint,  emperor 1002-1024 

HOUSE   OF  VBANCONIA. 

Conrad  II.,  le  Salique,  emperor. .  .1024-1039 

Henri  III.,  emperor 1039-1056 

Henri  IV.,  emperor 1056-1106 

Rudolph  of  Rheinfelden,  anti-em- 
peror   1077-10SO 

Hermann  of  Luxemburg,  anti-em- 
peror  1081-lOa? 

Conrad,  king  of  Germany 1087-1099 

Henri  V.,  king  of  Germany,  1099  ; 
emperor 1106-1125 

HOUSE  OF  BAXONY. 

Lothair  II.,  of  Supplingburg,  king, 
1125;  emperor 1133-1137 

HOUSE  OF  SUABIA,  OB  HOHENSTAUFEN. 

Conrad  III.,  emperor 1138-1152 

Frederick  I.,  Barbarossa,  emper- 
or  1152-1190 

Henri  VI.,  emperor 1190-1 197 

Phillip,  emperor 1198-1208 

Otho  IV.,  of  Brunswick,  anti-em- 
peror, 1198-1203;  emperor 1208-1218 

Frederick  II.,  emperor. 1218-1250 

Henri/,  the  Jtaspon,  of  Thurinyia, 

emperor 1246 

Conrad  IV. ,  emperor 1250-1254 


GBEAT   INTERREGNUM. 

William  of  Holland 1247-1256 

liicliard  of  Cormcall 1257-1272 

A  Ifonso  of  Castile 1257-1273 

HOUSE  OF   UAPSIiUBG,  OB  AUSTRIA. 

Rudolph  I.,  emperor 1273-1291 

Adolph  of  Nassau,  emperor 1292-1298 

Albert  I.,  of  Austria,  emperor 1298-1308 

HOUSE  OF   LUXEMBUBG   AND  UAVABIA. 

Henri  VII.,  of  Luxemburg,  em- 
peror  1308-1313 

Louis  V.,  of  Bavaria,  emperor. . .  .1314-1347 
Frederick  III.,  le  Bel,  anti-emper- 
or  1314-1330 

Charles  IV.,  of  Luxemburg,  em- 
peror  1347-1378 

Wenceslas  of  Luxemburg,  emperor.  1378-1400 

Robert  of  Bavaria,  emperor 1400-1410 

Josee,  of  Moravia,  emperor 1410-1411 

Sigismund  of  Luxemburg,  emper- 
or.   1411-1437 

HOUSE  OF  AUSTBIA. 

Albert  II.,  emperor 1438-1439 

Frederick  III.,  emperor, 1440-1493 

Maximilian  I.,  emperor. 1493-1519 

Charles  V.,  emperor 1519-1556 

Ferdinand  I.,  emperor 1556-1564 

Maximilian  II.,  emperor 1564-1576 

Rudolph  II.,  emperor. 1576-1612 

Matliias,  emperor. 1612-1619 

Ferdinand  II.,  emperor 1619-1637 

Ferdinand  III.,  emperor 1637-1657 

Leopold  I.,  emperor 1658-1706 

Joseph  I. ,  emperor 1705-1711 

Charles  VI.,  emperor 1711-1740 

HOUSE  OF   BAVARIA. 

Charles  VII.  (after  an  interreg-) 
num),  emperor 1742-1745 

HOUSE  OF   AU8TBIA-1.OBBAINE. 

Francis  I.,  husband  to  Maria-The- 
resa, emperor  17-45-1765 

Joseph  II.,  emperor. 1765-1790 

Leopold  II.,  emperor 1790-1792 

Francis  II.,  emperor 1792-1806 

The  Kingdom  of  Prussia,  the  king  of 
which  has  just  been  intrusted  with  the  im- 
perial crown,  was  previous  to  1866  one  of 
the  principal  states  of  Europe,  and  was 
formed  of  two  distinct  parts,  separated  one 
from  the  other  by  foreign  countries  (Han- 
over, the  higher  Hesse,  Nassau,  etc.)  :  the 
one,  Prussia  proper,  eastward;  the  other, 
smaller,  which  was  called  Rhenish  Prussia, 
not  taking  into  account  a  part  of  the  King- 
dom of  Wurtemberg,  the  Principality  of 
Hohenzollern,  ceded  to  the  King  of  Prussia 
in  1840.  Since  1866  Prussia  forms  (if  we 
except  a  few  states  inclosed  by  it,  which 
are  as  well  as  herself  included  in  the  Con- 
federation of  the  North :  the  Duchy  of 
Brunswick,  that  of  Oldenburg,  etc.)  a  com- 
653 


PROVINCES. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


HISTORY. 


pact  state,  whose  boundaries  are  :  on  the 
north  the  German  Ocean,  Denmark,  the 
Grand-Duchy  of  Mecklenburg,  the  Baltic 
Sea  ;  on  the  east  Russia  and  Poland  ;  on 
the  south  the  Empire  of  Austria,  the  King- 
dom and  duchies  of  Saxony,  the  Kingdom 
of  Wiirtemberg,  the  grand-duchies  of  Ba- 
den and  Hesse  ;  on  the  west  France  and 
Holland.  Her  present  population  is  about 
24,000,000  inhabitants,  of  which  more  than 
13,000,000  are  Protestants. 

The  Prussian  states  consist  of  ten  ex- 
tensive provinces,  subdivided  into  govern- 
orships and  regencies,  the  governmental 
districts  of  Eesse-Cassel  and  Wiesbaden, 
and  the  Principality  of  Hohenzollern. 

The  governorships  all  go  by  the  names 
of  their  chief  towns.  The  capital  is  Berlin. 

PBOVINCES.  GOVERNORSHIPS. 


x     itz,  Aix-la-Chapelle. 

(Hanover,  Hildesheim,  Lu- 

•. •<     neburg,  Stade,  Oanabruck, 

(     Auvich. 


Brandenburg..  .. 

Pomerania  .......     Stettin,  Stralsund,  Kii.-lin. 

Silesia  ...........     Breslau,  Liegnitz,  Oppelu. 

Posnania  ........     Posen,  Bromberg. 

Prussia  nroner       i  Konigaberg,      Gumbinnen, 
»a  proper.  .  .  j     Dantzic,  Mariemverder. 

(Magdeburg,  Mereeburg,  Er- 
8axony  ..........  \     flirt. 

Westphalia  ......  {*?££*'    MindeD'   A™a' 

Rhenish  Province.  |  Cologne,    Dusseldorf,   Cob- 

Hanover, 

Sleswig-Holstein..     Kiel,  Sleawig. 
Governmental  districts  of  Cassel  and  Wiesba- 
den ;  Principality  of  Hohenzollern. 

To  Prussia  belong  very  remote  and  di- 
verse countries.  In  Silesia,  in  Saxony, 
and  toward  the  Rhine  are  numerous  mount- 
ains (the  Sudete,  Carpathes,  Harz,  Thur- 
inger  Wald,  Teutoburger  Wald,  etc.)  ;  the 
other  parts  offer  an  immense  extent  of 
plains.  The  sea  washes  about  400  miles 
of  Prussian  coast. 

Numerous  railroads,  most  of  which 
centre  in  Berlin,  facilitate  communica- 
tion. The  principal  rivers  that  water 
this  kingdom  are  the  Rhine,  the  Weser,  the 
Elbe,  the  Oder,  and  the  Vistula.  There 
are,  and  more  particularly  in  the  eastern 
parts,  many  lakes  and  ponds,  and  two  vast 
lagoons,  respectively  called  Kurische  Haff 
and  Preussische  Haff.  Various  canals  serve 
to  connect  the  rivers  Elbe,  Oder,  and  Vis- 
tula. The  climate,  varying  according  to 
latitude,  is  very  cold  and  damp  in  the  north- 
ern parts.  Silesia  and  the  provinces  west 
554 


of  the  Weser  are  very  fruitful,  but  the  soil 
of  Brandenburg  is  extremely  poor.  About 
twelve  million  acres  are  covered  with  for- 
ests. 

The  principal  productions  are :  grains, 
vegetables,  flax,  hemp,  saffron,  tobacco, 
hops ;  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  wine, 
honey,  silk,  iron,  copper,  pewter,  lead, 
alum,  saltpetre,  lime,  alabaster,  kaolin, 
jasper,  onyx,  and  other  precious  stones. 
On  the  coasts  of  the  Baltic,  yellow  amber. 
Mineral  waters  at  Aix-la-Chapelle,  Warm- 
brunn,  Hirschberg,  etc.  Active  industry 
in  cloth,  linen,  silk,  saddlery,  coach-making, 
hats,  paper,  carpets,  clock  and  watch  mak- 
ing, brewing,  tanning,  Prussian  blue,  iron- 
melting. 

Trade,  rather  flourishing,  particularly 
west  of  the  Weser,  is  greatly  facilitated 
by  the  association  of  customs,  known  by 
the  name  of  Zollverein,  and  which  ex- 
tends almost  over  the  whole  of  Germany. 

The  government  is  monarchical  and  rep- 
resentative. The  reigning  house  is  the 
younger  branch  of  the  Hohenzollern. 

Liberty  of  conscience  is  unlimited.  Al- 
though a  large  majority  of  the  population 
are  Lutherans,  the  Catholics  have  two 
archbishops  (Gnesen,  Cologne),  and  eight 
bishops  (Breslau,  Culm,  Ermeland,  Mttn- 
ster,  Paderborn,  Treves,  Hildesheim,  and 
Osnabruck). 

Public  instruction  is  very  forward :  there 
are  six  universities,  viz.,  Berlin,  Konigs- 
berg,  Halle,  Breslau,  Greifswalde,  and 
Bonn. 

The  army  is  very  strong ;  composed  of 
both  regular  troops  and  a  national  militia 
called  Landwehr:  it  amounts  to  more  than 
600,000  men. 

The  Prussian  monarchy,  which  belonged 
to  the  Germanic  Confederation  with  Posen 
and  Prussia  proper  (admitted  into  it  in 
1848),  belongs  nowadays  integrally  to  the 
Confederation  of  the  North,  and  is  intrust- 
ed with  the  presidence  of  it,  and  the  com- 
mand of  the  armies  of  the  Confederation. 
Out  of  the  43  votes  of  the  Federal  Council 
she  is  entitled  to  17,  and  her  preponderance 
secures  for  her  almost  all  the  rest. 

IIISTOKY   OF  PRUSSIA. 

The  Prussian  monarchy  consisting  of 
various  parts  but  very  recently  united, 
this  account  will  principally  refer  to  the 
successive  accruments  which  have  formed 


HISTORY. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


IIlSTOBT. 


this  power,  and  be  confined  to  the  recalling 
of  the  chief  events  of  the  Prussian  states 
since  the  loth  century,  when  their  reunion 
began  to  take  place. 

1st.  A  Count  of  Hohenzollern,  Conrad 
Stein,  of  the  house  of  Brandenburg,  came, 
as  early  as  1164,  into  possession  of  the 
Burgraviate  of  Nuremberg,  which  unin- 
terruptedly belonged  to  this  house  up  to 
the  year  1801. 

•2(1.  From  1248  to  1331  his  successors 
became  possessed  among  other  places  of 
Anspach,  Culmbach,  and  Bayreuth ;  in 
fact,  the  whole  of  Franconia,  or  nearly  so, 
belonged  toward  that  time  to  the  above- 
mentioned  house  ;  but  these  possessions 
were,  at  the  beginning  of  the  loth  century, 
divided  between  the  two  sons  of  Frederick 
V.  of  Hohenzollern  (John  III.,  the  elder, 
and  Frederick). 

3d.  In  1415  the  Margraviatc  of  Branden- 
burg, which  had  successively  belonged  to  the 
Ascaniaii  house,  and  to  that  of  Bavaria  and 
Luxemburg,  was  bought,  with  the  title  of 
Elector  which  was  inherent  in  it,  by  Fred- 
erick VI.  of  Hohenzollern,  who  assumed 
the  title  of  Frederick  of  Brandenburg. 
Frederick  II.,  surnamed  Iron-Tooth,  soon 
added  to  it  the  New  Mark  (1445).  These 
possessions,  which  had  been  divided  on  the 
death  of  Frederick  I.  (1440),  were  again 
united  by  Albert,  the  Achilles  (1471),  on 
the  demise  of  Frederick  II. 

4th.  By  the  Treaty  of  Xanten  (1614), 
and  that'of  Dusseldorf  (1624),  John  Sigis- 
mund  annexed  to  his  states  the  half  of  the 
Juliers'  succession  (i.  e.,  Cleves,  the  Mark, 
and  Ravensberg). 

5th.  In  1618  the  same  John  Sigismund 
annexed  to  his  states  the  Duchy  of  Prus- 
sia, or  Ducal  Prussia,  as  son-in-law  to  the 
last  duke,  Albert  II.,  who  was  himself  a 
Hohenzollern,  but  of  the  Anspach  and 
Bayreuth  line.  This  same  Ducal  Prussia, 
which  was  at  the  time  of  the  annexation 
a  Polish  fief,  became  altogether  a  sovereign 
state  by  the  Act  of  Labian  in  1656,  and  by 
the  Treaty  of  Wehlan  in  1657. 

6th.  In  1648,  by  the  Treaty  of  West- 
phalia, Frederick  William,  called  the  Great 
Elector,  acquired  Eastern  Pomerania,  the 
secularised  archbishoprics  and  bishoprics 
of  Magdeburg,  Halberstadt,  Minden,  and 
Caiuin,  and  the  County  of  Hohenstein. 

7th.  After  the  institution  as  king  of 
Frederick,  under  the  name  of  Frederick  I. 


(1701),  the  following  states  were  annexed: 
Mors,  1702 ;  Tecklenbourg,  Vallengin,  and 
Neuchatel,  1707 ;  part  of  the  Guelders 
(Peace  of  Utrecht,  1713),  Wollin,  Usedom, 
Stettin,  and  half  Upper  Pomerania  (Peace 
of  Stockholm,  1720). 

8th.  Frederick  II.  conquered  from  Aus- 
tria nearly  the  whole  of  Silesia,  the  pos- 
session of  which  was  confirmed  to  him  by 
the  Peace  of  Aix-la-Chapelle,  1748,  and 
that  of  Hubertsburg,  1763.  He  had,  more- 
over (1743)  inherited  Eastern  Frisia. 

9th.  The  same  Frederick  obtained  for 
bis  share  in  the  first  dismemberment  of 
Poland  (1772-73)  Polish  Prussia,  except 
Dantzic  and  Thorn  ;  to  which  Frederick 
William  II.  added,  1793,  these  two  towns 
and  the  whole  of  Great  Poland,  under  the 
name  of  Eastern  Prussia ;  and  in  1795  Bialy- 
stok,  Plock,  etc.,  under  that  of  New  East- 
ern Prussia.  This  Prince  had  besides  ob- 
tained (1791)  the  cession  of  the  Anspach 
and  Bayreuth  margraviates. 

10th.  After  losing,  during  the  wars  of  the 
French  Revolution,  her  possessions  west  of 
the  Rhine,  Prussia  had  received  advanta- 
geous compensations  in  the  east  in  Sax- 
ony and  Westphalia,  added  to  which  Han- 
over had  been  ceded  to  her  by  Napoleon 
in  1806  ;  but  war  having  broken  out  a  few 
years  after,  her  forces  had  been  driven  out 
of  Hanover;  and  the  Treaty  of  Tilsit,  1807, 
took  from  her  all  her  possessions  in  West- 
phalia and  F.ranconia,  as  well  as  Great  Po- 
land, which  became  the  Grand-Duchy  of 
Warsaw.  Driven  back  to  the  Oder,  she 
was  on  the  brink  of  complete  annihilation, 
when  Napoleon's  downfall  suddenly  saved 
her.  She  recovered  in  1814  and  1815  about 
one-fourth  part  of  Great  Poland,  and  all  her 
other  possessions  (except  Anspach  and  Bay- 
reuth) ;  she  obtained  besides  Swedish  Pom- 
erania, nearly  half  the  Kingdom  of  Sax- 
ony, and  both  east  and  west  of  the  Rhine 
numerous  territories  which  formed  Rhenish 
Prussia,  otherwise  the  great  duchy  of  Low- 
er Rhine. 

llth.  Finally,  in  1849,  the  sovereign  prin- 
ces of  Hohenzollern-Hechingen  andHohen- 
zollern-Sigmaringen  ceded  their  principal- 
ities to  Frederick  William  IV.  for  an  an- 
nuity, not  giving  up,  however,  their  rights 
to  the  succession  to  the  throne  of  Prussia. 

The  capital  events  in  the  history  of 
Prussia  since  the  acquisition  of  Branden- 
burg by  the  houso  of  Hohenzollern  (1415) 
555 


HISTORY. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


HlSTORT. 


are  :  the  important  part  played  by  the 
Electors  Frederick  II.  and  Albert  the 
Achilles,  during  the  Hussite  wars  in  af- 
fording help  to  the  Emperor  Frederick 
III.  (1440-1486);  the  introduction  of  Lu- 
theranism  into  Brandenburg  and  Prussia 
(1521  and  subsequent  years) ;  the  secular- 
ization of  Eastern  Prussia,  1525,  under  Al- 
bert of  Brandenburg,  Grand-master  of  the 
Teutonic  Order;  the  influence  gained,  as 
early  as  1577,  by  the  Electors  of  Branden- 
burg over  Prussia,  of  which  they  ultimate- 
ly became  masters  (1618) ;  the  glorious  and 
useful  reign  of  the  Great  Elector  Frederick 
William,  who  was  the  real  founder  of  the 
Kingdom  of  Prussia,  and  materially  in- 
creased the  population  of  his  states  by 
opening  them  to  the  French  refugees  after 
the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes  ;  the 
transformation  of  the  Duchy  into  the  King- 
dom of  Prussia  under  Frederick  I.  (1701), 
and  the  participation  of  this  prince  in  the 
great  war  in  the  North  (1701  and  subsequent- 
ly)— a  war  which  by  the  Peace  of  Stock- 
holm still  added  to  his  dominions;  the  reign 
of  Frederick  II.  the  Great,  who,  casting  in 
the  shade  all  his  predecessors,  was  for  for- 
ty years  the  most  influential  prince  in  Eu- 
rope, added  to  his  states  Silesia  and  West- 
ern Prussia,  withstood  almost  single-handed 
a  most  fearful  coalition  (the  Seven-years' 
War,  1756-63),  prevented  Austria  from 
seizing  on  Bavaria  (1777),  and  made  Prus- 
sia balance  the  power  of  Austria  ;  the  part 
which  his  two  successors  took  in  the  Eu- 
ropean struggle  against  France ;  the  over- 
running of  Champagne  by  the  Prussians 
(1792)  ;  the  Peace  of  Basle  (1795)  ;  the 
campaigns  of  1806  and  1807,  signalized  by 
the  defeat  of  Jena,  the  occupation  of  Ber- 
lin, and  the  loss  of  one  half  of  the  Prussian 
states,  and  brought  to  a  close  (1807)  by  the 
Peace  of  Tilsit ;  the  coalition  of  Prussia  and 
Russia  after  the  Moscow  disaster  (1812) ;  the 
entering  of  the  Prussians  into  France  after 
the  battle  of  Leipsic,  and  their  reintegra- 
tion  with  important  additions  into  the  prov- 
inces of  which  the}'  had  been  deprived ; 
Frederick  William  III. ;  provincial  assem- 
blies, having  consultative  power  (1820). 
In  1847  Frederick  William  IV.  granted 
the  united  Diet,  where  the  members  of  the 
provincial  assemblies  were  called  together. 
Consequent  upon  the  revolution  which 
had  broken  out  in  Fraiice  (1848),  a  new 
constitution  was  sworn  by  the  king  (Feb- 
556 


ruary  6th,  1850) :  it  instituted  two  assem- 
blies— that  of  the  Lords,  and  that  of  the 
Deputies,  the  voting  of  taxes  and  laws  by 
these  two  Houses,  and  the  responsibility  of 
ministers.  His  successor,  William -Louis 
(1861),  had  at  first  again  to  contend  about 
the  constitution  ;  but,  seconded  by  an  able 
minister,  M.  de  Bismarck,  he  caused  his 
people's  ideas  to  enter  a  different  channel. 

Thanks  to  easy  successes  gained  over 
Denmark  (1864),  and  a  war  no  less  for- 
tunate than  venturous  against  Austria, 
who  was  vanquished  at  Sadowa  (July  3d, 
1866),  William-Louis  annexed  to  his  king- 
dom Holstein,  Sleswig,  Lauenburg,  Han- 
over, both  Electoral  and  Higher  Hesse, 
Nassau,  Homburg,  and  Frankfort,  and  ex- 
cluded Austria  from  Germany,  which  he 
organized  anew,  arrogating  to  himself  the 
Presidency  of  the  Confederation  of  the 
North. 

The  following  is  the  series  of  the  sov- 
ereigns of  Prussia  since  the  annexation 
of  Brandenburg : 

1.  MARGRAVES,  ELECTORS   OF   BRANDENBURG. 

Frederick  1 1415 

Frederick  II.,  Iron-tooth 1440 

Albert,  the  Achilles 14T1 

John,  the  Cicero I486 

Joachim  I.,  the  Nestor 1499 

Joachim  II.,  the  Hector 1534 

John  George 15T1 

Joachim  Frederick 1598 

John  Sigismund 1008 

George  William 1619 

Frederick  William,  Great  Elector 1640 

Frederick  III 16S8 

2.  KINGS  OP   PRUSSIA. 

Frederick  I.  (?ame  as  Frederick  III.). .   1701 

Frederick  William  L 1713 

Frederick  II.,  the  Great 1T40 

Frederick  William  II 1786 

Frederick  William  III 1797 

Frederick  William  IV 1S40 

Frederick,  William  the  First,  Louis,  Em- 
peror of  German}',  King  of  Prussia,  etc., 
born  March  22, 1797,  son  of  King  Frederick 
William  III.  and  of  Queen  Louisa  Augusta 
Wilhelmina  Amelia,  daughter  to  Charlet 
Louis  Frederick,  Grand-Duke  of  Mecklen- 
burg -  Strelitz  ;  regent,  October  9,  1858  ; 
succeeded  his  brother,  King  Frederick  Will- 
iam IV. ;  crowned  October  18, 1861.  Em- 
peror of  Germany,  January  18, 1871 ;  mar- 
ried, June  11, 1829,  to  Maria  Louisa  Augusta 
Catherine,  Empress  of  Germany,  Queen  of 
Prussia,  born  September  30, 1811,  daughter 
to  the  late  Charles  Frederick,  Grand-Duko 


HISTORY. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


ROUTE& 


of  Saxe- Weimar,  Colonel  of  the  Fourth 
Regiment  of  Grenadiers  of  the  Guard  No. 
4, "  Queen." 

Children:  I.Frederick  William  Nicolas 
Charles,  Prince  Imperial  of  the  German  Em- 
pire ;  Crown-Prince  of  Prussia,  born  Octo- 
ber 18,  1831 ;  General  Field-Marshal ;  In- 
spector-general of  the  Fourth  Inspection  of 
the  Army  of  the  German  Empire ;  Russian 
General  Field-Marshal ;  President  of  the 
Commission  for  the  Defense  of  the  Coun- 
try ;  Colonel  of  the  First  Regiment  of  East- 
ern Prussia's  Grenadiers  No.  1,  "  Crown- 
Prince  ;"  and  of  the  Fifth  Regiment  of  the 
Westphalian  Infantry  No.  53 ;  and  of  the 
Second  Regiment  of  the  Silesian  Dragoons 
No.  8  ;  attached  to  the  First  Regiment  of 
the  Foot-Guard,  and  the  Second  Regiment 
of  the  Silesian  Grenadiers  No.  11 ;  Lieuten- 
ant-Colonel of  the  First  Regiment  of  the 
Landwchr  Guard  ;  Governor  of  Poinera- 
nia ;  Colonel  of  the  Russian  Husssrs  No. 
11,  "  Isum;"  Owner  of  the  Regiment  of 
Austrian  Infantry  No.  20,  and  of  the  Regi- 
ment of  Bavarian  Lancers  No.  1 ;  married 
in  London,  January  25, 1858,  to 

Victoria  Adelaide  Maria  Louisa,  Princess 
Imperial  of  the  German  Empire  ;  Princess 
Royal  of  Prussia ;  Princess  Royal  of  Great 
Britain  and  Ireland,  Duchess  of  Saxony, 
born  November  21,  1840;  Second  Chief  of 
the  Second  Regiment  of  Hussars  (of  the 
Guard)  No.  2. 

Children:  1.  Prince  Frederick  William 
Victor  Albert,  born  in  Berlin,  January  27, 
1859;  Sub -Lieutenant  in  the  First  Regi- 
ment of  the  Foot-Guard ;  attached  to  the 
first  battalion  (Berlin)  of  the  Second  Land- 
ivi'hr  Regiment  of  the  Guard,  and  attached 
to  the  First  Regiment  of  the  Pomeranian 
Grenadiers  No.  2,  "King  Frederick  Will- 
iam IV.;"  Russian  Sub-Lieutenant;  at- 
tached to  the  Regiment  of  Grenadiers  of 
the  Guard,  "King  Frederick  William 
III." 

2.  Princess  Victoria  Elizabeth  Augusta 
Charlotte,  born  at  Potsdam,  July  24,  1860. 

3.  Prince  Albert  William  Henry,  born  at 
Potsdam,  August  14,  1862;   Lieutenant  in 
the  First  Regiment  of  the  Foot  -  Guard  ; 
Lieutenant  in  the  Navy  ;  attached  to  the 
Landwehr  Foot-Guard,  and  to  the  Russian 
Hussar  Regiment  No.  11,  "  Isum." 

4.  Princess  Frederica  Amelia  Wilhelmi- 
n;i   Victoria,  born  at  Potsdam,  April  12, 
1866. 


5.  Prince  Joachim  Frederick  Ernest  Wal- 
demar,  born  in  Berlin,  February  10, 1868. 

6.  Princess  Sophia  Dorothea  Ulrica  Alice, 
born  at  Potsdam,  June  14, 1870. 

7.  Princess  Margaret  Beatrice  Feodora, 
born  at  Potsdam,  April  22, 1872. 

2d.  Princess  Louisa  Maria  Elizabeth, 
born  December  3,  1838 ;  married  Septem- 
ber 28,  1856,  to  the  reigning  Grand-Duke 
of  Baden,  Frederick  William  Louis  of  Ba- 
den. 

The  Emperor  has  a  brother,  Prince  Fred- 
erick Charles  Alexander,  born  June  29, 
1801 ;  married  May  26, 1827,  to 

Princess  Mary  Louisa  Alexandrina,  born 
February  3,  1808,  daughter  of  the  late 
Charles  Frederick,  Grand-Duke  of  Saxe- 
Weimar. 

Their  eldest  son  is  Prince  Frederick 
Charles  Nicolas,  cousin  to  the  Crown-Prince, 
born  March  20,  1828 ;  generally  called  the 
"  Red  Prince,"  and  noted  in  the  late  war. 


ROUTES. 

Berlin,  page  561. 

ROUTE  145  (see  page  576). — Berlin  to 
Paris,  via  Stendal,  Hanover,  Minden.  Diis- 
seldorf,  Cologne,  and  Aix-la-Chapelle. 

ROUTE  146  (see  page  587).— Berlin  to  Co- 
logne, via  Magde'mrg.  Elherfeld,  and  Deutz. 

ROUTE  147  (see  page  595).  —  Berlin  to 
Hamburg  and  Sfestrig,  via  Wittenborge, 
Hagenow,  and  Buchen. 

ROUTE  148  (see  page  599). — Hamburg  to 
Strakund,  via  Lubeck  and  Rostock. 

ROUTE  150  (see  page  601).  —  Berlin  to 
Bremen,  via  Stendal  and  Ulzen. 

ROUTE  151  (see  page  603).  —  Berlin  to 
Dantzic,  via  Stettin. 

ROUTE  152  (see  page  605).  —  Stettin  to 
fitrahund,  via  Pasewalk  (Baths  of  Putbus). 

ROUTE  153  (see  page  606).  —  Berlin  to 
Dntt-.ic,  via  Ciistrin,  Schiifidcmuhl,  and 
Konitz,  or  via  Bromberg  (from  Dirschau 
to  Konigsberg). 

657 


ROUTES. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


ROUTES. 


ROUTE  154  (see  page  608). — Berlin  to 
Tilsit,  via  Frankfort-on-tbe-Oder,  Posen, 
Thorn,  and  Insterberg. 

ROUTE  155  (see  page  609).  —  Stettin  to 
Breslau,  via  Posen. 

ROUTE  156  (see  page  610). — Breslau  to 
Cracow,  via  Oppeln  and  Cosel. 

ROUTE  157  (see  page  612). — Cracow  to 
Warsaw. 

ROUTE  158  (see  page  614). — Cracow  to 
Vienna,  via  Oderberg,  Prerau,  Bisenz,  and 
Lundenberg. 

ROUTE  159  (see  page  614). — Dusseldorfto 
Bremen,  via  Miinster  and  Osnabriick  (rail- 
way in  progress  between  Osnabriick  and 
Bremen),  Miinster  to  Emden. 

ROUTE  160  (see  page  615). — Berlin  to 
Leipzig,  via  Wittenberg. 

ROUTE  161  (see  page  617).  —  Berlin  to 
Diisseldorf,  via  Halle,  Eisleben,  Nordhau- 
sen,  Cassel,  and  Elberfeld. 

ROUTE  162  (see  page  619). — Dresden  to 
Frankfort-on-the-Main,  via  Leipzig,  Wei- 
mar, Erfurt,  Gotha,  Eisenach,  Fulda,  and 
Friedberg. 

ROUTE  163  (see  page  625). — Frankfort 
to  Cassel,  via  Friedberg  and  Giessen. 

ROUTE  164  (see  page  629). — Berlin  to 
Breslau,via  Frankfort-on-the-Oder,  Guben, 
Sagan,  and  Glogau. 

ROUTE  165  (see  page  629).  —  Leipzig  to 
.Munich,  via  Eger  (Junction  lor  Fnmzens- 
i>ad  and  Carlsbad,  and  for  Marienbad  and 
Vienna),  and  Regensburg. 

ROUTE  166  (see  page  632).  —  Berlin  to 
Dresden. 

ROUTE  167  (see  page  639). — Dresden  to 
Carlsbad,  via  Bodenbach. 

ROUTE  168  (see  page  640). — Hanover  to 
Hamburg,  via  Celle,  Uelzen,  and  Lune- 
burg. 

558 


ROUTE  169  (see  page  641). — Frankfort 
to  Berlin,  via  Wiirzburg,  Bamberg,  Neuen- 
markt,  Hof,  and  Leipzig. 

ROUTE  170  (see  page  643).— Frankfort 
to  Prague,  via  Wiirzburg,  Nuremberg, 
Schwarzenfeld,  Pilsen,  and  Prague. 

ROUTE  171  (see  page  646). — Dresden  to 
Schwarzenburff,viaFieibeTg,  Chemnitz,  and 
Zwickau. 

ROUTE  172  (see  page  647).—  Berlin  to 
Gdrlitz,  via  Cottbus. 

Munich,  description,  page  649. 

ROUTE  173  (see  page  663).—  Munich  to 
Paris,  via  Augsburg,  Ulm,  Stuttgart,  and 
Strasburg. 

ROUTE  174  (see  page  666). — Munich  to 
Frankfort,  via  Gunzenhausen,  Anspach, 
and  Wiirzburg. 

ROUTE  175  (see  page  667). — Lindau  to 
Augsburg  and  Wiirzburg. 

ROUTE  176  (see  page  668). — Munich  to 
Lindau  (the  most  direct  route  to  Switzer- 
land). 

ROUTE  177  (see  page  668).  —  Ulm  to 
Friedrichshafen,  on  Lake  Constance. 

ROUTE  178  (see  page  669). —  Ulm  to 
Xchiiffhausen,  via  Immendingen. 

ROUTE  179  (see  page  669). — Siultgart  to 
Schajfhausen,  via  Tubingen  and  Immendin- 
gen. 

ROUTE  180  (see  page  670).— Stuttgart  to 
Heidelberg,  via  Heilbronn. 

ROUTE  181  (see  page  670). — Strasburg  to 
Basle  and  Constance,  via  Freiburg. 

ROUTE  182  (see  page  674). — Strasburg  to 
Cologne,  via  Saarbruck,Treves,  Hillesheim, 
and  Diiren. 

A.  Saarbruck  to  Mainz,  via  Spires  and 
Worms. 

B.  Saarbruck  to  Mainz,  via  Ludwigsha- 
fen. 


ROUTES. 

ROUTE  183  (see  page  G7ty.—Strai,bury  to 
Basle,  via  Colmar  and  Miiulhausen. 

ROUTE  184  (see  page  080).— The  tour  of 
the  Rhinr  from  Cologne  /o  Strasburg,  via 
Bonn,  CobUntz  (excursion  up  the  Moselle  to 
Treves),  Bingen  (excursion  to  Saarbruck 
r/'i  KIT iixii :ich),  Mayence,  Wiesbaden  (ex- 
cursion to  Ems  riu  Schwalbach  and  Nas- 
sau), Frankfort,  Darmstadt,  Mannheim, 
Heidd'uerg,  Cai'hruhe,  and  Baden-Baden. 


ATSTRIAN  ROUTES. 
ROUTE  185  (see  page  719). —  Vienna  to 
Dresden,  ri  i   Bodenbach,  Prague,   Pardu- 
bitz,  and  Brlinn. 

ROUTE  186  (see  page  724). — Vienna  to 
/'f'tijite,  Dresden,  Berlin,  and  Hamburg,  via 
Zni'un  and  Lissa,  by  Northern  of  Austria 
Railway  (sleepiny-car  route).  [Excursion 
to  the  Riesengebirge.~\ 

ROUTE  187  (see  page  725). — Vienna  tc  Eger 
and  Carlsbad,  vin  Egensburg  and  Budweis. 

ROUTE  188  (see  page  725).—  Vienna  to 
Prague,  via  Tabor. 

ROUTE  189  (sec  page  72G).—  Vimna  to 
Munich,  ritt  Linz,  Wels,  Attnang  (junction 
for  Gmunden,Ebensee,andIschl),  Salzburg, 
and  Ri)senheim  (hence  to  Innsbruck  ami 
arross  the  Brenner  Pass  to  Verona),  or  from 
Vienna  to  Munich  (mail  route)  ria  Linz, 
Neumarkt.  and  Semp.-u-h.  (At  Nounuirkt 
a  road  to  the  right  leads  to  Frankfort,  tli 
Katisbon  and  Nuremberg.) 

ROUTE  190  (see  page  730).—  Vienna  to 
Venice  (direct  route)  and  Trieste,  via  Briick, 
Gratz,  Laibach,  and  Adelsberg.  (At  Bruck 
junction  carriages  are  changed,  travelers 
to  Venice  direct  continue,  while  those  to 
Trieste  turn  to  the  left.) 

ROUTE  191  (see  page  732). — Villach  to 
Brirtn,  by  the  Pusterthal  and  Villach  to 
Bruck. 

ROUTE  192  (see  page  733).— Gratz  to 
Linz,  riti  Bruck.  Steyer,  and  Enns. 

ROUTE  193  (see  page  733).— Trieste  to 
Venice,  ria  Tdine  and  Treviso  (rail),  and 
by  steamer  direct. 

ROUTE  194  (see  page  734).— Vienna  to 
VOL.  II.— B 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


ROUTES. 


Constantinople,  via  Presburg,  Pesth,  and 
Varna  (Danube  steamers  to  Rustchuk,  rail 
to  Varna,  and  steamer  to  Constantino- 
ple). 

ROUTE  195  (see  page  739). — Pesth  to 
Pragerhof,  via  Boglar  and  the  Plattensee. 

ROUTE  196  (see  page  739).— Vienna  to 
Fiume,  via  Steinamanger,  Agram,  and 
Karlstadt  (Agram  to  Steinbruck). 

ROUTE  197  (see  page  739). — Vienna  to 
Pesth,  via  Bruck,  Raab,  and  Stuhlweissen- 
burg. 

ROUTE  198  (see  page  740).—  Pesth  to 
Gratz,  via  Stuhlweissenburg,  Kormond, 
Steinamauger,  and  Felbach  (railway  lin- 
ished). 

ROUTE  199  (see  pages  751,  757).—  Italy, 
description. 


ITALY  ROUTES. 

ROUTE  200  (see  page  770). — Venice  to 
Milan,  via  Padua,  Lake  Garda,  Verona, 
Brescia,  and  Bergamo. 

ROUTE  201  (see  page  787). —  Verona  to 
Innsbruck,  via  Trent,  Botzen,  and  the  Bren- 
ner Pass. 

ROUTE  202  (see  page  787). — Milan  to 
Coma  and  Lake  Como. 

ROUTE  203  (see  page  790).— Como  to 
Lake  Maggiore,  via  Lake  Lugano,  and  re- 
turn to  Milan  by  Novara. 

ROUTE  204  (see  page  791). — Milan  to 
Turin,  via  Novara. 

ROUTE  205  (see  page  796). — Turin  to 
Aosta,  via  Ivrea. 

ROUTE  206  (see  page   797). — Turin  to 
Nice.,  via  Cuneo  and  the  Col  di  Tendo. 
559 


ROUTES. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


ROUTES. 


ROUTE  207  (see  page  797). — Aronu  to 
Genoa,  via  Alessandria. 

ROUTE  208  (see  page  803).— Milan  to 
Genoa,  via  Pavia. 

ROUTE  209  (see  page  804). — Brescia  to 
Pavia,  via  Cremona. 

ROUTE  210  (see  page  805). — Brest-iu  to 
Tirana  and  the  Baths  of  Boruiio,  by  the 
Bonnio  Pass  to  Bregenz  (see  Route  55, 
Switzerland,  vol.  iii.),  Lago  d'Iseo. 

ROUTE  211  (see  page  805). — Verona  to 
Modena,  via  Mantua. 

ROUTE  212  (see  page  807). — Padua  to 
Bologna,  via  Ferrara. 


ROUTE   213  (see  page 
Nice,  via  the  Riviera. 


-Genoa  to 


ROUTE  214  (see  page  808). — Genoa  to 
Florence,  via  Spezia  and  Pisa. 

ROUTE  215  (see  page  812).—  Milan  to 
Florence,  via  Piacenza,  Parma,  Modena, 
Bologna,  and  Pistoia. 

ROUTE  216  (see  page  819). — Milan  to 
Brindisi,  via  Bologna,  Ravenna,  Rimini, 
Ancona,  and  Foggia.  Turin  to  Brindisi, 
and  Genoa  to  Brindisi. 

ROUTE  217  (see  page  825).— Pisa  to  Flor- 
ence, via  the  Baths  of  Lucca  and  Pistoia. 

ROUTE  218  (see  page  838). — (Florence 
and  its  environs),  Florence  to  Rome  (the 
most  direct  line),  via  Arezzo,  Perugia, 
Foligna,  Spello,  and  Terni. 

ROUTE  219  (see  page  842). — Florence  to 
Rome,  via  Empoli,  Pisa,  Leghorn,  Cecina, 
Follonica,  Grosseto,  and  Civita  Vecchia. 

ROUTE  220  (see  page  843). — Florence  to 
Rome,  via  Empoli,  Siena,  and  Orvieto. 

ROUTE  221  (see  page  845). — Fano  to 
Perugia,  via  Fossombrone,  Urbino,  and 
Gubbio. 

Rome  and  its  Environs. — Rome  (excur- 
sions in  vicinitv  of),  page  846. 
560  * 


ROUTE  222  (see  page  871). — Rome  to 
Naples  (railway),  via  Albano,  Villetii, 
Frosinone,  Ceprano,  Caserta,  and  Cancello. 

ROUTE  223  (see  page  872). — Rome  to  Na- 
pUs,via  the  Pontinc  Marshes  and  Terracina. 

ROUTE  224  (see  page  873). — Naples  to 
Fogyia,  via  Benevento. 

Naples  and  its  excursions,  page  875. 

ROUTE  225  (see  page  874). — Ancona  to 
Naples,  via  Pescara,  Sulmona,  and  Iscr- 


ROUTE  226  (see  page  891).— Naples  to 
Regrjio,  via  Salerno,  Eboli,  Cassano,  Co- 
senza,  Catanzaro,  and  Monteleone. 

ROUTE  227  (see  page  893).— Naples  to 
Taranto,  via  Potenza  and  Matera.  (Kail- 
way  in  progress  from  Eboli  to  Taranto.) 

ROUTE  228  (see  page  894).— Taranto  to 
Reggio  by  the  eastern  coast.  (Railway 
finished  the  greater  part  of  the  distance.) 

ROUTE  229  (see  page  894). — Naples  to 
the  ruins  of  P cesium. 

Sici'y.     History,  etc.,  page  895. 

Naples  to  Palermo. — Palermo  and  excur- 
sions, page  895. 

ROUTE  230  (see  page  899). — Palermo  to 
Girgenti. 

ROUTE  231  (see  page  900). — Palermo  to 
Trapani,  Marsala,  and  Castelvetrano. 

ROUTE  232  (see  page  900).— Girgenti  to 
Syracuse,  via  Licata,  Terranova,  Modica, 
and  Palazzolo. 

Palermo  to  Missina  by  steamer,  page 
902. 

ROUTE  233  (see  page  902).— Palermo  to ' 
Messina,  via  Termini,  Patti,  and  Milazzo. 

ROUTE  234  (see  page  904). — Messina  to 
Syracuse, via  Acireale  and  Catania,  Catania 
and  Mt.  Etna  and  Lipari  Islands.  (Steam- 
ers twice  a  week  from  Mcstina  to  Malta.) 


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I  Book 


liKKI.IX. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BERLIN. 


BERLIN. 

On  arriving  at  the  station  at  Berlin,  a 
controller  will  be  found  at  the  door  who 
distributes  metallic  tickets  which  corre- 
spond with  the  number  of  the  cab  to  which 
the  traveler  is  entitled.  There  are  two 
classes  of  cabs;  ask  for  "Erste  Classe," 
or  "  Zweite  Classe;"  and  if  not  familiar 
enough  with  the  language  to  call  out  the 
number,  give  it  to  a  porter,  who  will  de- 
posit your  small  parcels  therein.  The  out- 
side porter,  however,  has  nothing  to  do 
with  carrying  out  your  baggage,  and  must 
be  paid  separately. 

Berlin,  the  capital  of  Prussia,  contains 
l.l-'-2,3GO  inhabitants.  Principal  hotels, 
Grand  Central  Hotel,  the  Kttiserh»f,  and 
Hotel  de  Rome.  The  Grand  Central  Ho- 
tel, one  of  the  most  magnificent  houses 
in  Germany,  was  opened  in  1881 ;  it  has 
700  rooms,  beautiful  winter -garden,  etc. 
It  is  on  the  Friedrichstrasse,  opposite  the 
Stadt-Bahnhof.  The  Kaiserhof  is  a  mag- 
nificent, palatial  building  on  the  Zi<  th<  n- 
platz,  greatly  frequented  by  English  and 
Americans.  It  does  a  large  wine  and  ex- 
portation business  with  America.  Hotel  de 
Rome,  a  new  and  magnificent  building,  con- 
taining 200  rooms  and  saloons,  is  situated  on 
the  Unter  den  Linden,  the  most  fashiona- 
ble thoroughfare,  in  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity of  the  King's  Palace,  Royal  Museum, 
and  Picture-Gallery.  The  cooking  here  is 
admirable,  prices  reasonable,  and  the  land- 
lord (Mr.  Miihling)  very  attentive  to  his 
guests. 


Berlin  is  situated  on  the  River  Spree,  a 
small  sluggish  stream,  and  is  ordinarily 
the  residence  of  the  monarch.  It  is  one 
of  the  largest  and  handsomest  cities  in 
Europe,  being  about  twelve  miles  in  cir- 
cumference. It  lias  a  garrison  of  20,000 
soldiers.  The  Spree  intersects  the  city, 
insulating  one  of  its  quarters,  and  is  cross- 
ed by  more  than  fifty  bridges  in  various 
parts  of  the  city.  The  Spree  is  navigable 
for  barges,  and  is  connected  by  means  of 
canals  with  the  Oder,  as  well  as  the  Elbe, 


so  that  the  water  communication  of  Berlin 
is  very  extensive. 

The  most  prominent  objects  of  attraction 
to  the  stranger  are  the  splendid  palaces 
and  other  buildings  found  upon  either  side 
of  the  principal  street,  called  Unttr  den 
Linden,  from  its  magnificent  avenue  of 
limes.  At  one  extremity  of  this  street  Is 
the  Brandenburg  gate,  which  forms  the 
principal  entrance  to  the  city,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  magnificent  triumphal  arch, 
erected  in  1789.  It  is  a  copy  of  the  Pro- 
pylaeum  at  Athens.  The  Car  of  Victory 
on  the  top  was  taken  to  Paris  by  Napoleon 
as  a  trophy,  but  was  returned  after  the 
battle  of  Waterloo.  Most  of  the  other 
streets  are  plain  and  without  ornament; 
but  there  are  some  extensive  open  spaces 
or  places  adorned  with  statues. 

The  colossal  equestrian  statue  of  Fred- 
erick the  Great  is  one  of  the  most  magnifi- 
cent monuments  in  Europe;  covering  the 
sides  of  a  pedestal  of  granite,  twenty-five 
feet  high,  are  bronze  groups,  size  of  life, 
of  all  the  leading  generals  and  statesmen 
during  the  Seven  Years'  War,  amounting 
in  all  to  thirty-one  persons;  chief  among 
these  are  four  of  his  generals :  the  Duke 
of  Brunswick,  Prince  Heinrich  of  Prus- 
sia, General  Seydlitz,  and  General  Zie- 
then.  At  each  corner  of  the  pedestal, 
above  the  groups,  are  figures  of  Justice, 
Prudence,  Fortitude,  and  Temperance ;  be- 
tween these  are  bass-reliefs  representing 
different  periods  in  the  life  of  Frederick : 
the  Muse  teaching  him  history;  Mercury 
giving  him  a  sword ;  walking  in  the  gar- 
dens  of  his  palace,  surrounded  by  his  fa- 
vorite companions,  greyhounds ;  playing 
on  his  flute;  in  the  weaver's  hut;  draw- 
ing the  plan  of  a  battle  after  his  defeat  at 
Rollin.  On  the  front  tablet  is  the  follow- 
ing inscription :  "  To  Frederick  the  Great. 
Frederick  William  III.,  1840,  completed 
by  Frederick  William  IV.,  1851."  The 
equestrian  statue  is  seventeen  feet  high, 
and  most  perfect  in  all  its  proportions ;  a 
mantle  hangs  from  the  monarch's  shoul- 
ders, his  stick  hanging  from  his  wrist ;  all 
is  most  perfect  and  true  to  life.  It  is  the 
production  of  Ranch. 

Berlin  owes  much  to  the  taste  and  mu- 
nificence of  its  sovereigns.  The  quarter 
called  the  New  Stadt  was  built  by  the  great 
elector,  Frederick  William,  in  the  middle 
of  the  17th  centurv.  He  also  planned 
561 


BKRLIX. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BERLIN. 


Unter  don  Linden  Street,  and  otherwise 
greatly  enlarged  and  beautified  the  city. 
The  succeeding  monarchs,  especially  Fred- 
erick I.,  Frederick  the  Great,  and  the  late 
monarch,  have  added  many  new  streets, 
squares,  and  suburbs,  and  have  embellish- 
ed the  city  with  many  splendid  buildings 
and  monuments.  The  long  bridge  of  stone 
which  crosses  the  Spree  has  a  fine  eques- 
trian bronze  statue  of  the  great  elector, 
Frederick  William,  and  is  considered  a 
work  of  great  merit.  Opposite  the  Guard- 
house stands  the  bronze  statue  of  Blucher, 
and  on  each  side  stand  the  marble  st:itues 
of  Generals  Bulow  and  Scharnhorst,  all  by 
Rauch. 

The  Unter  den  Linden  is  considered  one 
of  the  finest  streets  in  Europe.  It  is  about 
one  mile  long,  from  the  ro}ral  palace  to 
the  Brandenburg  gate.  The  fine  avenues 
in  the  centre  are  composed  of  chestnut, 
linden,  plantain,  acacia,  and  afpen  trees, 
whose  various  foliage  contrasts  beautifully 
with  the  elegant  palaces  and  public  build- 
ings that  line  each  side  of  the  street.  Here 
are  the  palaces  of  the  Emperor;  that  of  the 
Prince  Imperial  Frederick  William  of 
Prussia  (son-in-law  to  Queen  Victoria),  of 
the  Queen  of  Holland,  the  Academy  of 
Fine  Arts,  the  Opera-house,  the  Arsenal, 
and  the  Seminaries  of  the  Artillery  and 
Engineers.  Here  the  fashionable  and 
wealthy  exhibit  themselves  and  their 
splendid  equipages. 

Berlin  is  the  first  city  in  Germany  for 
the  variety  of  its  manufacturing  works. 
The  principal  are  those  of  cloths,  linen,  car- 
pets, silks,  ribbons,  and  printed  cottons, 
Berlin  jewelry,  paper,  porcelain,  and  music- 
al instruments.  It  is  the  great  centre  of 
instruction  and  intellectual  development 
in  Northern  Germany.  Its  libraries  are 
large,  and  its  educational  establishments 
very  numerous.  Its  University,  founded  in 
1808,  comprising  schools  of  jurisprudence, 
medicine,  and  philosophy,  has  nearly  two 
thousand  scholars.  It  has  an  Academy 
of  Fine  Arts,  an  Academy  of  Sciences,  an 
Academy  for  the  Encouragement  of  Indus- 
try, and  an  Academy  of  Music,  a  Geo- 
g  -aphical  Society,  and  Society  of  Natural 
History,  a  Theologies!  Seminar}',  Schools 
of  Artillery,  Military  Engineering,  Archi- 
tecture, Sculpture,  Painting,  and  Music. 

The  fixtures  which  strike  the  eye  in  the 
streets  of  Hcrlin  are  vast  fronts  of  build- 
OG2 


ing?,  ornaments,  statues,  inscriptions,  a 
profusion  of  gilding,  guard-houses,  sentry- 
bones  ;  the  movables  are  sentries  present- 
ing arms  every  minute,  officers  with  feath- 
ers and  orders  passing  unceasingly,  hack- 
ney droskies  rattling  about,  and  numbers 
of  well-dressed  people.  The  streets  are 
spacious  and  straight,  with  broad  margins 
on  each  side  for  foot-passengers,  and  a  band 
of  plain  flag-stones  on  these  margins  make 
them  much  more  walkable  than  the  streets 
of  most  Continental  towns. 

The  German  capital  has  numerous  res- 
taurants and  cafes— in  fact,  they  are  to  be 
seen  at  every  turning.  Hitler's  Restaurant, 
62,  63  Unter  den  Linden,  can  be  specially 
recommended  as  enjoying  the  very  highest 
reputation  for  excellence  and  elegance. 

Genuine  Bavarian  beer  may  be  found  at 
Wagner's,  48  Charlottenstrasse,  and  at 
Olbrich's,  83  Friedrichstrasse. 

Tea  and  coffee  constitute  the  favorite 
beverages  of  the  higher  classes;  and  the 
latter,  when  they  can  afford  it,  is  popular 
with  all  ranks.  The  gin-palaces  are  su- 
perior to  those  of  London,  and  more  fre- 
quented, dram-drinking  being  very  preva- 
lent in  Berlin. 

The  droskies,  or  cabs,  are  open  and  shut, 
and  of  two  classes.  The  drivers  of  the 
first-class  are  known  by  a  white  band 
which  they  wear  on  their  hats.  They  are 
very  good,  but  of  limited  number;  their 
fare  for  one  or  two  persons,  one  and  half 
miles,  is  1  mark.  Three  or  four  persons, 
1  mark  50  pfennigs.  The  second-class 
droskies  charge  for  the  same  distance,  one 
or  two  persons,  50  pfennigs;  for  three  or 
four  persons,  75  pfennigs.  These  prices 
are  augmented  25  pfennigs  coming  from  or 
going  to  the  stations,  and  are  doubled  be- 
tween midnight  and  7  A.M. 

For  longer  courses  than  one  and  half 
miles  a  bargain  should  be  made.  The 
driver  is  compelled  to  show  you  his  tariff 
of  prices  when  asked  for. 

Very  good  carriages  may  be  had  for  15 
marks  per  day,  1£  mark  pourboire.  The 
price  is  higher  on  Sundays  and  fete  days. 

American  tramway  (1'ferde-Eisenbahn) 
to  Charlottenburg  and  West-end  every  10 
minutes. 

Omnibuses  traverse  the  city  in  every  di- 
rection. 

Steamers  on  the  Spree  leave  the  bridge 
Jaiinowitz  every  half  hour  for  Stralau, 


BERLIN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BKRLIN. 


Treptow,  Eirhaeuschen,  Neuerkrug,  Se- 
dan, Sadowa,  and  Kopnick. 

Jiailif  •  ;.'/  S(a>i»n.f. — Tlicre  :ire  eight  dif- 
ferent   railway   stations    in    Berlin.     For 
Leipzig.  Dn-Mli'ii.   Prague,  Vienna,  Halle, 
and    Frankfort,  the  Anfiul?   Station.      For 
Potsdam.  Magdeburg,  and  Brunswick,  the 
;»    Station.     For   Frankfort-on-the- 
Oder,    Posen.   Breslau,   and    Vienna,    the 
•'•>rl  Station.     For  Stettin,  Stratum', 
Pomerania.  and  Dantzic,  the  Stettin  Station. 
For    Ciistrin,    D.mtzie,  and    Kiinigsberg, 
,i  Station.     For  Hamburg,  Mecklen- 
burg, and  Holstein,  the  Hamburg  Station. 
For   Riesen-Gebirga,  the    Gorlitz   Station. 
For  Hanover,  Bremen,  and  Cologne,  the 
Lehrte  Station. 

!--aj>h.— The  central  office  is  in  the 
FranzOsischestrasae,  but  there  are  nearly 
twenty  other  offices.  At  the  present  time 
(1879)  a  message  to  New  York  costs  forty 
marks  ;  this  price  is  liable  to  change.  To 
France  and  Switzerland,  3  marks  '20  pfen- 
nigs ;  England,  5  in.  Go  pf.:  Holland,  2  m.; 
Italv.  5  m.  The  branch  offices  are  open 
from  8  A.M.  to  9  P.M.;  the  central  office 
all  night. 

Post-ojfict '. — The  central  office  is  in  the 
Leipzi/  where  the  traveler  must 

apply  for  any  special  information.  The 
office  is  open  from  8  A.M.  to  8  P.M.  On 
Sundays  it  is  closed  from  9  A.M.  to  5  P.M. 

Letters  to  America,  France,  and  Italy, 
30  pfennigs:  England.  23  pf.;  Switzerland, 
Belgium,  and  Holland,  20  pf. 

THEATRES. 

The  Opera-hrmse  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
Europe,  and  few  cities  on  the  Continent 
can  boast  such  an  opera  company  and  such 
a  corps  de  ballet  under  one  roof.  There  is 
no  city  where  music  is  more  universally 
patronized,  or  where  the  opera  is  better 
performed  or  more  heartily  appreciated 
than  in  Berlin.  Mr.  Strang  says,  ''It  is 
not  fashion,  but  a  passion  for  the  art  that 
prompts  the  crowd  of  admiring  listeners  to 
congregate  in  the  Opera-house — listeners 
whose  judicious  applause  is  at  once  illus- 
trative of  their  taste  for  and  knowledge 
of  good  music."  The  house  holds  2000 
spectators.  The  opera  begins  at  6.30  (near- 
ly all  the  theatres  commence  at  this  hour) 
and  is  over  at  10.  The  best  places 
are  Loge  des  Etranyers.  price  10  marks  ; 
Atant  Scene,  7  m. ;  First  Ba'cony,  5J  m. 


The  Dentscher  Theater,  similar  to  the  Theatre 
I-'ranyii*  of  Paris,  was  opened  in  1883. 

The  \etc  Theatre,  built  by  Schinkel,  is 
ornamented  with  a  good  deal  of  sculpture. 
This  theatre  is  dedicated  to  the  regular 
drama,  and  is  generally  well  attended. 
The  German  and  French  company  play 
alternate  nights.  The  pieces  are  splendid- 
ly put  upon  the  stage.  The  prices  are, 
Loge  des  Et rangers,  oi-  m.  ;  Avant  Scene 
and  Fir.it  Ba'cony,  4  m.  This  theatre 
commences  at  six  o'clock,  and  is  oft  -n 
visited  by  the  emperor  and  imperial  faiiu 
i]y.  There  is  a  fine  marble  statue  of  Schil- 
ler in  front  of  the  house.  There  is  at- 
tached to  it  subscription -rooms  for  balls 
and  concerts,  which  are  frequently  attend- 
ed by  the  court.  The  concert-room  is  of 
beautiful  architectural  proportions,  and  is 
capable  of  holding  1200  persons.  There 
are  also  the  Victoria  Theatre,  'Friedrich 
Wilhelmstaltei'  Theatre,  Wallner  Theatre, 
If,//'.  r*lorf  Theatre,  Residenz  Theatre.  \u- 
(ional  Theatre,  Variete  Theatre,  Belle  Alli- 
ance Theatre,  and  a  circus  during  a  short 
season. 

The  Orpheum  is  a  ball-room  where  the 
lower  classes  dance  and  the  higher  classes 
look  on.  The  sights  seen  here  are  often 
very  amusing.  The  condiltoris  are  much 
frequented  by  the  upper  classes.  They 
resemble  our  confectioners'  shops,  but  are 
far  more  spacious,  and  fitted  up  with  great- 
er attention  to  comfort  and  elegance.  In 
addition  to  refreshments  of  all  kinds,  they 
are  supplied  with  foreign  and  domestic 
newspapers,  and  literary  and  scientific 
journals. 

There  is  a  Sing-Academie,  an  amateur 
musical  association  of  male  and  female 
performers,  mostly  belonging  to  the  high- 
er classes,  who  meet  weekly  for  practice, 
and  give  several  delightful  concerts  every 
year,  to  which  the  public  are  freely  admit- 
ted. The  performance  of  sacred  vocal  mu- 
sic is  carried  to  a  high  state  of  perfection. 

Concerts.  —  The  Kroll  concerts,  in  the 
Thiergarten,  are  given  in  a  magnificent 
saloon  lighted  by  six  hundred  gas-burn- 
ers, and  are  much  frequented.  On  Sun- 
days a  grand  table  d'hote  is  served  at  2 
o'clock  for  two  marks. 

Behind  Kroll's  is  another  establishment 
called  TentfS  :  farther  on  in  the  same  direc- 
tion is  the  palace  of  Beltevue,  the  residence 
of  Duke  William  of  Mecklenburg-Schwerin, 
563 


BKRLIN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BERLIN. 


which  contains  some  good  pictures :  the 
park  is  open  to  the  public.  All  these 
gardens  and  parks  are  thronged  with  vis- 
itors during  Sundays  and  holidays. 

SIGHTS   OF   BERLIN. 

The  best  distribution  of  time  may  be  made 
brconsultiiiitthe  //otel-Zcituiiy,  as  the  hours 
of  admission  to  the  different  objects  of  inter- 
est are  continually  being  changed. 

Daily. — Royal  Museum  of  Pictures  and 
Sculptures  and  New  Museum,  every  day 
between  10  and  4,  Sundays  and  fete  days 
excepted ;  Royal  Palace,  10  to  4 ;  Royal 
Library,  10  to  1,  Sundays  and  fete  days 
exeepted ;  National  Gallery,  11  to  2,  fete 
days  excepted ;  Historical  Museum,  10  to 
5;  Raczynski  Picture  -  Gallery,  11  to  3  ; 
Exposition  of  Artists,  10  to  4,  Sundays  and 
fete  days,  11  to  3 ;  Zoological  Garden,  from 
9A.M.;  Charlottenburg,  all  day ;  Chang- 
ing Guard  and  Military  Band  opposite  the 
Court  House,  11  A.M. ;  Palace  of  the  Em- 
peror and  Prince  Imperial,  in  their  absence; 
Exchange  and  Rathhaus,  12  to  2 ;  Reichs- 
tag, on  the  days  when  there  is  no  sitting. 

Sunday:  Water -works  at  Sans  Souci, 
Potsdam,  12  to  dusk;  Hotel  de  Ville,  11 
to  4 ;  Museum  of  Mines,  8  to  3. 

Monday :  Hotel  de  Ville,  11  to  4 ;  Royal 
Museums  arc  closed. 

Tuesday:  Beuth  -  Schinkel's  Museum, 
11  to  1 ;  Gallery  Ravene,  11  to  2 ;  Serres 
Borsig,  all  day ;  Museum  of  Mines,  8  to  3 ; 
Zoological  Museum,  12  to  2;  Cabinet  of 
Mineralogy,  12  to  2 ;  Royal  Mint,  by  per- 
mission. 

Wednesday :  Anatomical  Museum,  2  to 
4 ;  Observatory,  9  to  11 ;  Mineralogical 
Cabinet,  12  to  2;  Arsenal,  2  to  4  ;  Hotel 
de  Ville,  11  to  4  ;  Aquarium,  after  dark  up 
to  0  P.M.  lighted  with  gas. 

Thursday  :  Water-works  at  Sans  Souci, 
(Grand  Fountain)  afternoon ;  Museum  of 
Mines,  8  to  3 ;  Models  of  Fortresses. 

Friday :  Museum  of  Schinkel,  11  to  1 ; 
Gallery  Ravene,  11  to  2  ;  Serres  Borsig, 
all  day. 

Saturday:  Museum  of  Mines,  8  to  3; 
Observatory,  9  to  11  A.M.  ;  Ai>enal,  '2  to 
4;  Gewerbe- Academy  (models),  10  to  12 
A.M. ;  Aquarium,  from  dusk  to  t)  P.M. 

The  Museum  of  Berlin  stands  unrivaled 

in  Europe,  that  is,  if  taken  as  a  whole.    As 

a  building,  there  are  few  that  can  surpass 

it :  the  splendid  marble  columns  and  stair- 

5G4 


cases,  the  cleanliness  and  order  with  which 
ever}-  thing  is  arranged,  renders  the  effect 
truly  magnificent.  Its  picture-gallery  may 
be  surpassed  by  the  picture-gallery  at 
Dresden,  or  the  Uffizi  Gallery  or  Pitti  Pal- 
ace at  Florence ;  but  they  have  not  its  Mu- 
seum of  Antiquities  nor  historical  relics. 

On  the  ground  floor  is  the  Museum  of 
Antiquities,  on  the  first  the  Sculpture-Gal- 
lery, and  on  the  second  the  Picturf-Gal- 
lery.  In  the  rear  of  the  Old  Museum,  and 
connected  with  it  by  a  covered  arcade, 
stands  the  New  Museum,  a  splendid  build- 
ing, rich  in  antiquities,  Egyptian  and 
Northern,  as  well  as  historical  and  ethno- 
logical collections.  In  front  of  the  Old 
Museum  is  the  Lustgartcn,  in  the  centre 
of  which  stands  the  equestrian  statue  of 
Friedrich  Wilhelm  III.,  by  Wolff,  erected 
in  1871.  On  the  other  two  sides  of  the 
(larten  arc  the  Palace  and  Cathedral.  Here 
may  be  seen  the  enormous  vase  of  polished 
granite,  6G  feet  in  circumference,  the  larg- 
est in  the  world.  The  block  out  of  which 
it  was  made  was  brought  from  Fiirsten- 
wald,  a  distance  of  32  miles,  by  floating 
it  down  the  Spree.  It  was  polished  by 
steam  -  engines,  and  placed  where  it  now 
stands  with  incredible  labor  and  expense. 
On  the  right  of  the  staircase  stands  the 
celebrated  group  in  bronze  of  a  mounted 
Amazon  repelling  the  attack  of  a  tiger,  by 
Kiss.  On  the  left  is  a  young  horseman 
launching  his  spear  at  an  overthrown  lion, 
by  Wolff. 

Under  the  portico  are  marble  statues  of 
four  of  Prussia's  greatest  artists  and  an- 
tiquarians :  that  of  Schinkel,  by  Tieck  ; 
Rauch,  by  Wichmann ;  Winckelmann,  by 
Drake;  and  Scbadow,  by  Hagen. 

The  front  walls  of  the  colonnade  are 
adorned  with  frescoes  executed  under  the 
direction  of  Cornelius  from  the  designs  of 
Schinkel.  They  are  allegorical  representa- 
tions of  the  creation  of  the  universe  and 
the  civilization  of  mankind,  and  are  much 
admired.  On  the  left  is  the  Dance  of  the 
Constellations :  Jupiter  organizes  the  new 
course  of  the  world ;  Saturn  ani  the  Titans, 
having  withdrawn  into  the  shades  of  the 
past.  I'rometheus  steals  the  heavenly  fire 
from  the  Dioscuri  to  give  light  to  the  earth ; 
Luna  drives  her  chariot  to  illuminate  the 
night ;  Night  unfolds  her  mantle,  dis- 
playing her  sleeping  children ;  War  still 
slumbers  ;  Maternal  love  ;  Peace  ;  the 


BERLIN. 


[THE 


Muse  ;    a   Child   waters    the   earth    w 
rain;  the  Sun  in  his  chariot  rising  froi. 
the  sea  surrounded  by  tlie  Graces,  while^ 
a  choir  of  harp.'rs  herald  his  coming. 

On  the  right  is  the  Morning  of  life  ;  con- 
test of  Shepherds  :  the  Muse  and  Psyche; 
Summer  and  Noon  :  Harvest  and  its  joys  ; 
Pegasus  on  the  heights  of  Helicon,  under 
hoof  springs  the  fountain  of  imag- 
ination :  Music  of  the  forest  :  Nymphs 
pour  water  into  the  fountain  from  which 
the  poet  draws  inspiration;  Evening  and 
Autumn  ;  Sculpture  ;  Architecture  :  the 
leaves  of  the  Acanthus  suggest  the  idea 
of  the  Corinthian  capital :  Warrior's  return 
home:  Festival  of  the  wine-press;  Age 
rejoices  at  the  visit  of  the  Muses  :  the 
wise  man  contemplating  thc  stars  ;  Luna  j 
descends  into  the  sea;  Commencement  of 
the  new  day. 

Beneath  the  frescoes  are  smaller  paint- 
ings, those  on  the  right  representing  the 
Myth  of  Theseus,  those  on  the  left  of  Her- 
cules. 

A  double  staircase  leads  directly  to  the 
gallery  of  the  rotunda  througli  which  the 
Picture-*  iallery  is  entered ;  on  the  staircase 
is  a  copy  of  the  celebrated  Warwick  Vase, 
also  busts  of  Huml)oldt  and  Altenstein. 

There  are  some  tine  frescoes  designed 
by  Schinkel  at  the  entrance  to  the  ro- 
tunda, representing  the  struggle  of  civ- 
ilization against  the  barbarians  and  thc 
elements. 

Sculpture-Gallery. — The  entrance  to  this 
gallery  is  through  a  grand  circular  hall 
called  the  rotunda,  rising  the  whole  height 
of  the  building,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a 
statue  in  bronze  of  Frederick  William  III. 
in  the  garb  of  a  Roman  emperor,  by  Kiss. 
Between  the  columns  which  support  the 
dome  are  placed  eighteen  ancient  statues. 
Above  these  is  the  celebrated  Gobelins  tap- 
estry worked  from  the  cartoons  of  Raphael 
for  Henry  VIII.  at  Arras;  purchased  by 
the  Duke  of  Alba  at  the  sale  of  the  ef- 
fects of  Charles  I.,  and  bought  by  Fred- 
erick William  IV.  in  1*11. 

The  Sculpture -Gallery  is  indebted  for 
its  origin  to  Frederick  fie  Great,  and  is 
principally  composed  of  the  collection  of 
Cardinal  Polignac.  It  comprises  over  one 
thousand  pieces  of  ordinary  merit. 

From  the  rotunda  the  visitor  enters  into 
the  gallery  of  Gods  and  Heroes.  The  gem 
of  this  collection  is  the  Boy  Praying ;  it  is  • 


GERMANY  j 


BERLIN, 


'  the  history  of  mankind.      First,  the  Fall 

of  Babel,  and  the  Dispersion  of  the  Na- 

!  tions.     In  the  foreground  the  division  of 

js*he   tribes.      Second,  the    Prosperity    of 

,)v'-eece.     Homer  approaching  its  shores. 

likciH-G0(te  of  Olympus  in  a  rainbow  above. 

no  en   is  1)t'strllction  of  Jerusalem  by  Titus. 

duction.  r°reSround  the  High-priest  killing 

' 


A  stairwa  -     Ahasuerus,  the  Wan- 

rotunda  into  iflecinf-  A  Christian  family 
roes  descends  tfv,  "hile  four  prophets  above 
Antiquarium.  whX?tlon-  .  ^urth,  the  Battle 
lection  of  medals,  r?m.e.  !"  the  ^ckground. 
h  of  hlm 


.. 

cabinet  of  medals  conhleld  . 

sand  specimens,  and  is  a?,/  thc  *  ™S<*h*- 
Here  may  be  seen  thellon  "lthu  h's  Cru' 
"  Hildesheimer  Silberscha,  ,Slx|h>  ASe  of 
at  Hildesheim.  ten  feet  belol10  altar  ls  8een 
of  the  soil,  in  1868.  It  consist.rround,ed  b>' 
plate  (embossed  silver)  of  the  ti?.nd  Bugen- 
gustus.  lumerous 

The  Picturt-Callfry.  —  There  is  'u  .  cele" 
oat.iloguc  published  of  this  collection,'  1U 
addition  to  which  each  room  contains 
catalogue  of  the  pictures  therein,  whicl?" 
renders  it  unnecessary  to  give  the  num- 
bers in  this  guide.  The  gallery  is  di- 
vided into  thirty  -seven  rooms,  each  distin- 
guished by  a  number  over  the  entrance. 
The  passage  conducts  the  visitor  into 
room  No.  4;  by  turning  to  the  right  and 
proceeding  through  four  rooms  he  will 
commence  at  No.  1.  the  beginning  of  the 
Italian  school  :  returning  through  Nos.  2,  3, 
and  4,  he  will  continue  to  his  left,  visiting  in 
succession  thc  Italian.  French,  and  Span- 
ish schools  ;  then  retracing  his  steps  to 
where  he  commenced,  he  will  continue  to 
the  right  through  the  Flemish  and  Ger- 
man schools.  The  collection  of  pictures 
here  has  been  much  augmented  by  the 
removal  from  the  palace  of  Sans  Souci, 
in  Potsdam,  and  different  royal  palaces  in 
Berlin,  the  principal  works  of  art  con- 
tained therein,  which  has  been  done  with 
the  permission  of  the  king. 

The  formation  epoch,  or  Venetian  school, 
as  shown  in  room  No.  1,  commenced  about 
H30.  Notice  No.  •_'.  dma,  the  Vir-in  with 
Saint;  ;  No.  '2*.  .\fnntegna.  the  body  of 
Christ  carried  by  two  Angels.  Room  two 
contains  some  fine  specimens  of  the  ear- 
ly Florentine  school.  Notice  the  Virgin 
adoring  the  infant  Christ.  No.  t',9,  by  Filip- 
po  Lippi  ;  and  the  Annunciation,  by  Pal- 
565 


BERLIX. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BERLIN. 


lajuolo.     In  the  third  room  notice  a  Leo- 
nardo da  Vinci,  a  Virgin  with  the  Child. 

In  room  fifth  there  are  several  fine  paint- 
ings by  Francesco  Francia ;  No.  135,  Ra- 
phael, Christ  at  the  Tomb;  No.  140,  Gio- 
eanni  Santi,  father  of  Raphael,  an  altar- 
piece  ;  No  150,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by 
Giovanni  lo  Spagno,  wrongly  attributed  to 
Raphael. 

Room  sixth  contains  several  works  by 
Titian :  among  others  his  own  portrait,  also 
that  of  his  daughter  Lavinia ;  No.  180,  a 
Venus,  by  Bordone ;  and  the  Washing  the 
Feet,  by  Pordenone.  Room  seventh  con- 
tains another  fine  picture  by  this  artist, 
No.  190,  the  Woman  taken  in  Adultery. 

In  room  eighth  are  two  pictures  by  Cor- 
reggio —  lo  and  the  Cloud,  and  Leda  and 
the  Swan  —  well  worth  examination,  not 
only  as  works  of  art,  and  for  the  celebrity 
of  the  master,  but  on  account  of  the  inci- 
dents connected  with  them.  They  were 
formerly  in  the  gallery  of  Philippe,  duke 
of  Orleans,  while  Regent  of  France,  and 
were  considered  the  most  precious  gems 
there.  After  his  death  they  descended  to 
his  son,  Louis,  duke  of  Orleans,  who  was 
renowned  for  his  piety.  From  motives  of 
false  delicacy,  he  cut  out  the  heads  of  lo 
and  Leda,  and  burned  them.  He  also  cut 
the  picture  of  Leda  to  pieces,  but  by  acci- 
dent the  pieces  were  not  destroyed.  Both 
pictures  were  purchased  by  Frederick  the 
Great.  The  head  of  lo  was  replaced  by 
a  French  artist,  and  that  of  Leda  by  a 
German.  You  can  hardly  discover  that 
they  have  ever  suffered  from  any  ill  treat- 
ment. 

Room  ninth  contains  some  fine  speci- 
mens of  the  Florentine,  Roman,  Bologna, 
and  Ferrara  schools  ;  among  others,  notice 
No.  141,  R'iph-iel,  the  Virgin  reading ;  No. 
247,_.gag&ifl,  tUe_Virgin  with  the  Saviour 
"and  St.  John,  in  the  artist's  first  style,  pur- 
chased at  Naples  for  $33,375 ;  No.  '248, 
Raphu'l,  th"  %l Madonna  di  Casa  Colonna," 
so  called  after  tne  palace  where  "it  was 
found  —  this  was  purchased  for  $15,000; 
No.  249,  Fra  Eartolomeo,  the  Assumption 
of  the  Virgin. 

In  the  eleventh  room  are  several  por- 
traits by  Tintoretto  ;  notice  No.  300,  by 
the  same  artist  ;  in  the  next  room.  No. 
316,  Tintoretto,  St.  Mark,  and  three  Pro- 
curators ;  No.  326,  Paul  Veronese,  Jupiter, 
Juno,  Cvbele,  and  Neptune. 
566 


In  the  fourteenth  room.  No.  365,  Cura- 
vaggio,  St.  Matthew;  and  No.  359,  the 
same,  Mount  of  Olives ;  No.  385,  the  Del- 
uge, by  Doinenich'mo. 

The  fifteenth  room  contains  a  fine  Carlo 
Dolci,  No.  423 ;  and  a  Holy  Family,  by 
Mengs,  No.  483. 

The  next  room  contains  several  works 
by  Raphael  Mengs ;  and  a  Madonna,  by 
Van  der  Verff. 

The  seventeenth  room,  admirably  light- 
ed from  the  top,  contains  some  fine  speci- 
mens of  the  French  and  Spanish  schools. 
There  are  several  Murillos.  No.  408,  a  pen- 
itent Magdalene,  and  No.  414,  St.  Antonio 
of  Padua  and  the  infant  Jesus ;  No.  428, 
a  Landscape,  by  Claude  Lorraine ;  No.  431 , 
Shipwreck,  by  Salcator  Rosa  ;  No.  463, 
Landscape,  by  JV.  Poussin ;  No.  369,  Love, 
by  Caravaggio ;  No.  471,  the  Family  of  M. 
Jabach,  of  Cologne ;  No.  468,  the  Pleasures 
of  French  Comedy,  by  Watteau. 

The  visitor  will  now  retrace  his  steps  to 
the  fifth  room  on  the  right  of  the  entrance, 
where  the  Dutch  and  German  pictures 
commence,  and  here  in  the  first  room  he 
will  find  twelve  pictures,  the  gems  of  the 
collection,  from  Nos.  512  to  525.  These 
paintings,  which  are  on  six  panels,  are  by 
John  and  Hub.  van  Eyck.  There  were  orig- 
inalty  thirteen  panels,  which  formed  the 
wings  of  the  celebrated  altar-piece  known 
as  the  "  Worship  of  the  Spotless  Lamb," 
in  St.  Bevon's  Church  at  Ghent;  they 
were  carried  off  by  the  French,  and  six  fell 
into  the  hands  of  a  dealer  when  Paris  was 
taken  in  1815,  and  sold  to  an  Englishman 
by  the  name  of  Solly  for  100,000  francs, 
who  again  sold  them  to  the  Museum  for 
375fOOO  francs.  Four  of  the  others  are 
still  at  Ghent,  two  at  Brussels,  and  the 
third  has  disappeared.  Every  three  days 
the  pictures  are  turned  that  the  reverse 
sides  may  be  seen.  They  represent  the 

1  Just  Judges.  The  old  man  on  the  hand- 
some gray  horse  is  a  portrait  of  the  painter 
Hub.  van  Eyck  :  the  black  figure  looking 

!  round  is  his  brother  John.  The  second, 
Champions  of  Christ;  third  and  fourth, 
singingand  playing  Angels;  fifth.  Hermits; 
and  sixth.  Pilgrims.  On  the  reverse  are 
John  the  Baptist;  Burgomaster  of  Ghent; 
Annunciation  ;  and  the  Angel  Gabriel  and 
the  Virgin  ;  portrait  of  the  wife  of  Jodocii* 
Vyts,  the  burgomaster,  as  St.  Elizabeth  .• 

:  and  St.  John  the  F.vangelist. 


BERLIN. 


In  the  same  room  arc  copies  of  the  pan- 
els at  Ghent  :  also  No.  .r.:j:',.  Klijah  IVd  by 
AngfK  l>y  Mfmliny;  audfi.U.  l>.-.-<vnt  from 
the  Cross,  by  Vun  der  Weydf ;  501,  Virgin 
I  the  Child,  liy  Quentin  Mntfj.*:  '  M. 
Rubens  and  Xnydcrit.  a  Stag-hunt :  77*.  tin- 
dead  Christ  mourned  over  by  Mary  Mag- 
dalene, Van  Dyck ;  the  Children  of  Charles 
I.  of  England,  by  the  same :  810,  Rem- 
brandt, a  portrait  of  himself  at  the  age  of 
28 ;  802,  also  l.y  Rtmlrakdt.  the  Duke 
Adolphusof  Guelders  threatens  his  captive 
Father:  >'•><'>.  l'<  Msants  in  an  Ale -house; 
884,  Sea-piece,  by  Ruysdntl ;  888,  a  Storm, 
by  Backkui/srn ;  973.  Bear-hunt,  by  Snyders, 
one  of  the  finest  pictures  in  the  gallery ; 
inptation  of  St.  Anthony,  by  Tenters, 
a  most  humorous  production.  The  figures 
are  portraits :  the  artist  as  the  saint :  his 
wife  has  a  small  portion  of  the  devil's  tail 
sticking  out  from  under  her  dress,  while 
the  representative  of  that  unfortunate  class 
of  humanity,  the  mother-in-law,  is  repre- 
sented as  a  mo>t  decided  devil.  Two  por- 
trait- of  old  people  by  Denntr.  most  re- 
markable productions,  and  very  highly  val- 
ued, copies  of  which  are  to  be  seen  in  every 
direction. 

In  the  rear  of  the  Old  Museum  there  is 
-age  to  the  .\V •••/•  Mut.iint.  a  bridge 
supported  by  columns.  This  beautiful 
building  was  completed  in  1855,  after  de- 
signs by  Xti'fter,  and  is  internally  the  most 
elegantly  decorated  building  in  Berlin. 
The  ground  floor  contains  the  Egyptian 
Musi-urn,  the  Ethnological  Collection,  and 
the  \orthern  A  niiquities.  On  the  first  floor 
are  Casts  of  Sculpture,  and  on  the  upper 
floor  the  Historical  Collection.  Architectural 
Models,  and  Cabinet  of  Engraving?. 

In  the  centre  of  the  building  is  th.' 
noble  staircase,  which  forms  a  single  flight 
from  the  ground  floor  to  the  top  of  the 
building.  It  is  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
two  feet  high,  and  its  walls  are  decorated 
•with  Kaulbaeh's  magnificent  paintings  in 
water-rolor.  by  a  new  process,  called  "  \Va<- 
serglass-Malerei,"  a  stereo-cromic  process, 
which  consists  in  first  preparing  the  sur- 
face with  a  solution  of  silica  and  alkali. 
then  using  the  ordinary  colors  in  distem- 
per, covering  the  whole  with  the  first 
preparation,  which  forms  a  coat  of  thin 
glass  resisting  the  action  of  the  acids. 

The  frescoes  are  divided  into  six  sec- 
tions, and  represent  important  events  in 
VOL.  II.— B  2 


|THK  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BERLIN, 


the  history  of  mankind.  First,  the  Fall 
of  Babel,  and  the  Dispersion  of  the  Na- 
tions. In  the  foreground  the  division  of 
the  tribes.  Second,  the  Prosperity  of 
Greece.  Homer  approaching  its  snores. 
The  Gods  of  Olympus  in  a  rainbow  above. 
Third,  Destruction  of  Jerusalem  by  Titus. 
In  the  foreground  the  High-priest  killing 
himself  and  family.  Ahasuerus,  the  Wan- 
dering Jew,  fleeing.  A  Christian  family 
leaving  the  city,  while  four  prophets  above 
predict  its  destruction.  Fourth,  the  Battle 
of  the  Huns.  Rome  in  the  background. 
Attila  borne  on  a  shield ;  in  front  of  him 
stands  Theodoric,  king  of  the  Visigoths. 
Fifth,  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  with  his  Cru- 
saders before  Jerusalem.  Sixth,  Age  of 
the  Reformation.  Before  the  altar  is  seen 
Luther,  holding  up  a  Bible,  surrounded  by 
Calvin,  Melanchthon,  Zwingli,  and  Bugen- 
hagen,  while  sitting  around  are  numerous 

i  early  Reformers,  and  on  either  side  cele- 
brated monarchs,  philosophers,  artists,  au- 

'  thors,  and  generals.  Around  the  entire 
hall  is  a  frieze  representing  the  develop- 
ment of  mankind. 

The  Egyptian  Museum  is  situated  on  the 

•  ground  floor  of  the  building.  In  one  of  the 
halls  there  is  an  Egyptian  temple,  sur- 
rounded with  pillars,  and  inclosing  statues 
of  deities  and  kings.  The  whole  collec- 
tion is  one  of  the  most  complete  in  Europe. 

!  Here  are  the  ancient  Egyptians'  weapons 

1  of  offense  and  defense,  implements  used  in 
the  various  arts,  articles  of  dress,  medicine- 
chests,  cooking-utensils,  instruments  used 
in  embalming,  such  as  brass  hooks  for 
drawing  the  brain  through  the  nostrils, 
mummies  of  sacred  animals  they  wor- 
shiped, the  contents  of  the  tomb  of  a  high- 
priest  brought  from  Thebes,  viz.,  2  mod- 
els of  such  vessels  as  navigated  the  Nile 
in  former  days,  completely  rigged,  with 
figures  of  a  dead  body  and  party  of  mourn- 
ers on  board ;  a  priest's  wand,  the  leg  and 
skull-bone  of  an  ox.  These  antiquities 
fill  five  different  apartments,  and  are  most- 
ly the  collections  of  M.  Lipsius,  General 
Minutoli,  and  M.  Passalacqua. 

The  Berlin  Museum  is  rich  in  its  Histor- 
ical Collections  and  works  of  art.  and  i« 
situated  on  the  second  floor  of  the  Museum. 
Among  the  latter  is  the  Life  of  Christ, 
carved  in  wood,  an  ivory  crucifix  by  Mi- 
chael Angelo,  a  head  carved  in  wood  by 
Albert  Dilrer.an  ornamented  cabinet  made 
567 


BERLIN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


for  Philip  II.,  duke  of  Pomerania.  The 
principal  relics  are  the  decorations  and  or- 
ders of  the  Emperor  Napoleon,  presented 
by  the  different  sovereigns  of  Europe,  also 
his  hat,  all  of  which  were  found  in  his 
traveling-carriage  at  Waterloo,  from  which 
he  escaped  so  narrowly  ;  a  miniature  wind- 
mill made  by  Peter  the  Great  while  learn- 
ing the  trade  of  shipwright  at  the  docks 
of  the  East  India  Company  at  Amsterdam, 
•i  wax  figure  of  Frederick  the  Great,  in  the 
same  uniform  he  wore  the  day  of  his  death, 
surrounded  by  his  books,  walking  -  cane, 
flute,  a  cast  taken  of  his  face  after  death, 
the  ball  with  which  he  was  wounded  at 
the  battle  of  Rossbach,  etc.  Here  are  also 
two  cannon-balls,  both  flattened  on  one 
side.  It  is  said  they  met  in  the  air  at  the 
siege  of  Magdeburg.  There  are  also  nu- 
merous relics  of  the  father  of  Frederick  the 
Great,  prominent  among  which  are  his  to- 
bacco-pipes, a  gaudy  white  dress  that  be- 
longed to  Murat,  and  a  thousand  other  things 
our  space  will  not  permit  us  to  mention. 

The  Ethnological  Collection  comprises 
numerous  articles  of  dress  and  weapons, 
and  implements  of  foreign  nations.  It  is 
contained  in  thirty-four  large  glass  cases. 
In  the  American  collection  is  a  mantle  of 
red  and  yellow  feathers,  presented  to  Fred- 
erick William  III.  by  the  King  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands. 

The  Collection  of  Engravings,  500,000  in 
number,  is  placed  on  the  second  floor  of 
the  building.  It  is  only  open  to  the  pub- 
lic on  Sundays.  There  are  also  20,000 
drawings  and  etchings. 

The  Collection  of  Casts  occupies  the  whole 
of  the  first  floor  of  the  New  Museum,  and 
is  contained  in  twelve  saloons.  It  is  con- 
sidered the  richest  and  best-arranged  col- 
lection of  copies,  illustrating  chronological- 
ly the  history  of  sculpture  by  its  most  cel- 
ebrated works.  The  most  ancient  produc- 
tions of  sculpture  are  placed  in  the  North 
Court.  Then,  entering  the  first  room  to 
the  right  of  the  grand  staircase,  the  ear- 
liest specimens  of  Greek  art  will  be  seen. 
Passing  through  an  anteroom,  where  there 
is  a  copy  of  the  celebrated  Laocoon  at 
Rome,  the  Apollo  Saloon  is  entered.  Here 
the  principal  object  of  attraction  is  an 
admirable  reproduction  of  the  great  Far- 
nese  Bull,  the  largest  marble  group  of  an- 
tiquity. The  next  room  contains  Ajax 
with  the  bod}'  of  Achilles. 
568 


BERLIN. 


In  the  Saloon  of  the  Niobides  may  be 

seen    a   reproduction    of  that    celebrated 

group  of  Niobe  now  in  the  Uffizi  Gallon- 

at  Florence.      The  figures  once  stood  in 

j  the   tympanum   of  a   temple    of  Apollo. 

|  Here^also  is  the  Dying  Gladiator. 

In  saloon  eight,  called  the  Saloon  of 
Bacchus,  are  small  casts,  mostly  taken 
from  objects  found  at  Pompeii;  one  of  the 
principal  is  a  sitting  she-wolf. 

In  the  Roman  Saloon  arc  casts  of  the 
principal  Venuses  of  the  world  :  Venus 
de  Medici,  Venus  of  Milo,  Venus  Callipy- 
gos,  Capitoline  Venus,  Dancing  Faun,  etc. 

The  Cupola  Saloon,  or  No.  ten,  contains 
three  large  mural  paintings,  viz.,  Christi- 
anity constituting  the  religion  of  the  state, 
by  Slilke.  Wittekind  submitting  to  Charle- 
magne, copied  from  Kaulbach.  Inaugura- 
tion of  the  Church  of  St.  Sophia  by  the 
Emperor  Justinian,  by  Schroder.  In  the 
centre  is  a  copy  of  the  Medici  Vase. 

The  Mediaeval  Saloon  contains  decora, 
tions  of  French,  English,  and  German 
churches. 

The  last  saloon  is  called  the  Hall  of 
Modern  Art,  and  contains  Michael  Angelo's 
Monuments  of  the  Medici,  Ghiberti's  Doors 
of  the  Baptistery  at  Florence,  Canova's 
Lion,  and  the  Mercury  of  Giovanni  da 
Bologna. 

It  would  be  well  to  employ  a  valet  de 
place  the  first  dajr  the  traveler  vi-dts  the 
Gallery  and  Museum,  after  that  he  can  go 
alone. 

National  Gallery  —  a  very  handsome 
structure,  finished  in  1876.  It  is  situated 
at  one  side  of  the  New  Museum,  and  con- 
tains, first,  the  celebrated  collection  of 
Wagner,  who  was  a  banker,  and  one  of  the 
first  collectors  of  Germany,  and  who  be- 
queathed this  selection  to  the  city  for  the 
purpose  of  forming  a  nucleus  for  a  National 
Gallery.  The  pictures  are  mostly  modern, 
by  artists  of  the  school  of  Munich  and 
Dusseldorf,  and  were  formerly  placed  in 
the  Academy  < if  Fine  Arts.  Mr.  Wagner 
died  in  1861.  The  collection  contained 
340  pictures.  Among  the  number  are 
works  by  Achenbach.  Meyer  of  Bremen, 
Meyerheim,  Hildebrandt,  Schadow,  Corne- 
lius, Steinbruck,  and  numerous  others  of 
the  first  artists  of  Germany,  whose  pro- 
ductions may  lie  bought  at  Lepke's  gal- 
lery in  the  Unter  den  Linden  any  day. 
The  traveler  has  a  longing,  naturally,  to 


BERLIN 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BERLIN 


possess  all  beautiful  works  of  art  which  he 
sees  ;  but  nearly  always  the  artist  is  dead, 
and  the  works  he  leaves  behind  are  only 
within  the  reach  of  governments  ;  here  one 
can  see  the  style  he  likes,  and  purchase 
pictures  by  the  same  artist.  In  this  gal- 
lery the  great  progress  of  German  art  can 
be  seen.  A  commission  of  the  Academies 
of  Berlin,  Dusseldorf,  and  Konigsberg  de- 
cides each  year  on  the  new  purchases  to  be 
made.  An  exhibition  takes  place  during 
the  last  months  of  every  year.  A  cata- 
logue is  being  prepared  this  year  (1&76). 

Post-office. — A  curious  museum  was  open- 
ed in  1875.  containing  models  of  the  prin- 
cipal post-houses  in  Germany.  Wax  fig- 
ures of  the  size  of  life  represent  postilions 
in  dress  and  undress  uniform ;  there  is  a 
large  number  of  models  of  carriages  and 
post-wagons  with  their  internal  arrange- 
ments ;  maps  and  geographical  drawings, 
with  a  collection  of  2500  postage-stamps  of 
all  countries  in  the  world. 

The  University  is  a  large  and  magnifi-  ' 
cent  building,  and  ranks,  as  an  educational 
establishment,  second  to  none  in  Germany. 
In  its  left  wing  is  the  Museum  of  Natural 
History,  op-.-n  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays 
from  \'l  t«i '_'.  Tickets  of  admission  are  given 
out  the  day  previous  by  the  directors.  On  , 
the  right  wing  uf  the  building  is  the  Ana- 
tomical Museum,  one  of  the  most  valuable 
in  Europe.  It  is  open  every  Wednesday 
and  Saturday,  from  4  to  6  in  the  summer, 
and  from  2  to  4  in  the  winter. 

The  Royal  Library  is  a  very  indifferent-  ' 
looking  building,  but  it  contains,  in  addi- 
tion to  a  large  number  of  valuable  relics 
and  curiosities,  over  500,000  volumes  and 
5000  MSS.  There  is  also  a  public  reading- 
room  and  a  private  reading-room,  where 
may  be  seen  all  the  reviews  and  journals 
of  the  day.  One  of  the  most  intere>ting 
curiosities  in  the  library  is  an  album,  with 
six  very  beautiful  miniature  portraits  by 
Lucas  Cranaeh ;  Luther's  Bible,  from  which 
he  made  his  translation  ;  his  translation 
of  the  Psalms;  Gutenberg's  Bible,  the  first 
book  printed  with  movable  types  (1450) ; 
also  the  prayer-book  which  Charles  I.  car-  : 
ried  to  the  scaffold  :  the  two  hemispheres 
of  metal  by  which  <  )tto  Guericke  discovered 
the  principles  of  the  air-pump,  and  numer- 
ous other  articles  of  great  interest  to  the 
scientific  traveler. 

The  Royal  Palace  is  a  building  of  im- 


mense size,  built  of  brick  and  covered 
with  stucco.  At  the  gate  stand  the 
bronze  horses,  with  grooms,  copied  from 
the  "Monte  Cavallo"  horses  at  Rome — 
a  gift  from  the  Emperor  Nicholas.  The 
sumptuous  furniture,  the  grandeur  of  the 
apartments,  and  the  historic  interest  which 
liaiiL:~  about  this  palace,  render  it  an  ob- 
ject of  more  than  ordinary  importance. 
The  royal  chapel  is  quite  modern  in  its  fit- 
tings, paintings,  and  decorations;  it  con- 
tains numerous  modern  pictures  and  por- 
traits. The  White  Hall  is  the  most  mag- 
nificent apartment  in  Berlin;  it  contains 
statues  of  the  Brandenburg  Electors  and 
allegorical  figures.  The  Knights'  Hall,  or 
throne -room,  is  sumptuously  decorated. 
Frederick  the  Great's  rooms  will  be  ex- 
amined with  much  interest.  It  is  said 
this  palace  was  formerly  haunted  by  a 
white  lad;/,  who  appeared  only  to  announce 
the  death  of  a  member  of  the  royal  family. 

The  Schlosslrficke  is  ornamented  with 
eight  groups  of  marble  statuary,  very  fine- 
ly executed.  The  Arsenal,  on  Unter  den 
Linden  Street,  is  a  very  beautiful  building. 
It  contains  over  100,000  stand  of  arms,  and 
numerous  warlike  relics,  such  as  samples 
of  all  the  weapons  of  war  used  by  the  dif- 
ferent nations  of  Europe  :  the  keys  of  nu- 
merous fortresses  captured  by  the  Prus- 
sians ;  cannons,  guns,  colors,  etc.,  etc. 

The  Palace  of  thf  Emperor,  an  interest- 
ing residence,  is  situated  on  the  Linden, 
facing  the  statue  of  Frederick  the  Great. 
It  may  be  visited  in  the  absence  of  the 
emperor,  which  is  indicated  by  the  flag 
not  being  hoisted. 

The  Palace  of  the  Prince  Imperial,  Fred- 
erick William,  on  the  Linden,  in  front  of 
the  Arsenal,  was  at  one  time  the  residence 
of  Frederick  the  Great ;  and  here  King 
Frederick  William  III.  lived  and  died.  It 
is  shown  in  the  absence  of  the  family. 

The  Palace  of  Prince  Charles,  situated 
on  the  Wilht-lmsplatz.  contains  a  fine  col- 
lection of  armor.  Admission  daily,  from 
10  to  5.  It  is  rich  in  works  of  Italian  mas- 
ters. Address  the  Haushofmeister.  No.  8. 

The  churches  of  Berlin  are  not  of  much 
importance.  The  principal  is  the  Cuthe- 
ilral.  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Lustgarten,  between  the  Museum  and  Pal- 
ace. It  was  founded  about  the  middle  of 
the  last  century,  and  is  celebrated  for  be- 
ing the  burial-place  of  some  of  the  ances- 


BERLIN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BERLIN. 


tors  of  the  royal  family.  It  contains  the 
coffin  of  Frederick  William,  the  great  elect- 
or, and  Frederick  I.,  king  of  Prussia.  It 
also  contains  statues  of  various  electors, 
and  a  mosaic  of  St.  Peter,  presented  to  the 
late  king  by  Pope  Pius  VII.  The  "  Men- 
delssohn's Choir"  chant  every  Sunday  at 
10  A.M.  Adjoining  the  Cathedral  there 
is  a  Campo  Santo,  or  royal  burial-ground. 
The  other  churches  are  the  Church  of 
Friedrichswerder,  St.  Peter's,  St.  Nicholas — 
this  last  contains  the  tomb  of  Pufendorf 
and  St.  Iledicig.  St.  Michael's  Roman  Cath- 
olic Church,  finished  in  1856,  is  a  great 
beaut}'.  It  was  erected  by  Seller.  The 
statue  of  the  Archangel  Michael  is  by  Kiss. 

In  Konigsplatz,  No.  2,  is  situated  the 
Gallery  Raczynski,  a  fine  collection  of  mod- 
ern pictures,  visible  from  11  to  3  every  day 
(catalogue,  7-|  groschens).  On  the  stair- 
case is  the  Ganymede,  by  Tliortcaldsen. 
No.  1,  Christ  in  Hades,  by  Cornelius;  3, 
Kaulbach's  Battle  of  the  Huns,  as  seen  on 
the  grand  staircase  of  the  New  Museum  ; 
14,  Adam  and  Eve,  by  Deger;  21,  Daugh- 
ter of  Herodias,  by  Schadow ;  37,  Edward's 
Children,  by  HUdebmndt;  38,  Breakfast,  by 
Prfyer ;  58,  Two  Leonoras,  by  Sohn ;  115, 
Pilgrims  at  Rome,  by  Paul  Delaroche ;  142, 
the  Count  Raczynski,  by  Madrazo. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Platz  on  which 
stands  the  above  gallery  may  be  seen  the 
new  Monument  of  Victory  (SiegesdenkmaT), 
constructed  after  the  plans  of  Strack,  a 
pupil  of  Schinkel.  It  was  unveiled  Sep- 
tember 2,  1873,  in  presence  of  the  Emperor 
William,  although  the  mosaic  cartoons 
were  still  unfinished.  The  monument  was 
originally  intended  to  commemorate  the 
wars  with  Denmark  and  Austria,  but  the 
original  design  was  changed  to  combine 
the  Franco-German  War  of  1870-71  as  well. 
The  substructure  is  of  square  granite  blocks, 
on  which  rests  an  enormous  square  base, 
with  bass-reliefs  by  Siemering,  destined  to 
perpetuate  the  late  Prussian  campaigns, 
especially  that  of  1870-71  with  France. 
The  base  is  surmounted  by  a  portico,  sur- 
rounded by  Doric  columns,  forming  a  tem- 
ple, or  Siegeshalle,  with  the  names  of  the 
battles  and  generals.  Above  the  roof  of 
the  temple,  which  is  supported  by  sixteen 
columns,  rises  a  sandstone  shaft  with  an 
interior  staircase.  This  shaft  is  divided  into 
three  sections :  the  first  containing  twenty 
Danish  cannons,  taken  in  battle — these  sur- 
570 


round  the  column  ;  next  above  are  twenty 
Austrian  and  above  these  twenty  French 
guns,  the  whole  terminating  with  a  capital 
formed  of  eagles,  and  surrounded  by  a  gilt 
balustrade.  This  is  crowned  by  a  bronze 
figure  of  Victory,  by  Drake,  43  feet  high. 

The  reliefs  represent  on  the  east  the  at- 
tack of  a  Danish  fort  at  the  battle  of  Kiinigs- 
berg.  On  the  north  side  the  king  decorat- 
ing the  crown-prince  after  the  battle  of  Sa- 
dowa.  That  on  the  west  the  delivery  of 
the  letter  of  Napoleon  III.  to  the  King  of 
Prussia  during  the  battle  of  Sedan.  On 
the  south  side  is  represented  the  triumphal 
entrance  of  the  troops  into  Berlin,  June, 
1871,  with  the  words:  "A  grateful  nation 
to  the  victorious  army."  The  allegorical 
cartoons  are  by  Salvati.  The  total  height 
of  the  monument  is  58  metres  — 189  feet. 

A  bronze  monument,  erected  to  Baron 
von  Stein,  the  eminent  Prussian  statesman, 
in  the  Donhofsplatz,  was  unveiled  October 
27,  1875,  in  presence  of  the  crown-prince, 
who  attended  as  the  representative  of  the 
Emperor  William,  the  crown-princess,  the 
Prince  and  Princess  Charles  of  Prussia, 

|  Prince  Frederick  Charles,  the  Ministers, 

j  many  generals  and  members  of  the  Ger- 
man   Reichsrath  and  Prussian    Diet,  the 
University  professors,  the  clergy,  the  town 
council,  and  municipal  council  of  Berlin. 
The    Jtavene    Collection    is   situated    in 

\  Wallstrasse,  Nos.  92  and  93,  and  is  open 
on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays  from  11  to  2.  En- 

|  trance,  No.  92.  Ring  the  first-floor  bell. 
This  is  a  small  but  very  choice  collection 
of  modern  German  and  French  pictures. 
Among  the  best  is  a  Knaus,  A  Peasant- 
Girl  gathering  Flower.-;,  No.  1)7.  Bohemian 
Musicians,  by  Galltiit,  No.  22.  The  Pleas- 

:  ures  of  Winter,  by  JJildebrandt.  No.  4  6.  No. 
47,  by  the  same.  Massacre  of  the  Jews  in 
London,  by  Robert  Fleury,  No.  142.  Land- 
scape with  Animals,  by  Auguste  and  liosa 
Bonheur,  No.  14.  Sea-piece,  by  Andreas 
Achenbach. 

The  Gallery  of  Count  Redern  contains  a 
collection  of  ancient  and  modern  pictures, 
visible  every  day  from  3  to  5,  with  permis- 

\  sion.  The  palace  contains  several  statues 
by  Ranch  and  Schwanthnler. 

The  Blankensee  Gallery  is  situated  at 
No.  70  Unter  den  Linden.  It  can  lie  visit- 
ed any  day  from  12  to  2,  by  special  permis- 
sion. It  contains  over  two  hundred  an- 
cient and  modern  pictures. 


BERLIN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY. 


BEBUX. 


The  Academy  of  Architecture  contains 
on  the  upper  floor  the  tfchinkel  Museum. 
which  is  open  to  the  public  from  12  to  2 
on  Tuesdays  ami  Fridays.  In  it  is  a  large 
number  of  architectural  drawings,  sketch- 
es, etc.  :  also  the  original  designs  of  the 
frescoes  in  the  Museum. 

The  Museum  if  Jidtich,  situated  in  the  j 
Lagerhaus,  7G   Klo>t>-r-n-u--;>,  contains   a 
collection  of  the  works  of  that  celebrated 
sculptor. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville  is  an  imposing  struct- 
ure, recently  constructed  of  granite  and 
brick.  Its  size  is  3-22  feet  by  286.  The  in- 
terior is  to  be  seen  every  day  gratis,  from 
11  to  4,  except  Thursdays  and  Fridays.  To 
ascend  the  tower,  a  ticket  must  be  pro- 
cured from  the  porter,  for  which  half  a 
murk  is  demanded.  The  staircase  and  the 
Banqueting  and  Municipal  Halls  are  most 
magnificently  decorated. 

The  Iinyi.d  foundry  is  situated  in  the  In- 
validenstr.isse,  and  may  be  seen  daily  (half 
a  mark  fee).  It  contains  a  museum  of 
castings.  The  Hospital  for  old  soldiers  is 
adjoining,  in  the  centre  of  which  stands  a 
monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  sol- 
diers who  fell  in  lsi<. 

Opposite  the  Museum,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Spree,  is  situated  the  Bourse,  or  Ex- 
ch'Aii'if,  a  handsome  building,  2GO  feet  long 
bv  2tin  wide,  built  in  the  Renaissance  style 
of  architecture,  by  Hitzig,  and  completed 
in  1863. 

The  principal  facade,  which  faces  the 
river  on  Btirgstrasse,  is  ornamented  with 
a  double  colonnade,  surmounted  in  the 
centre  by  a  group  in  terra-cotta.  represent- 
ing Prussia  protecting  agriculture  and 
commerce,  by  Begas ;  and  on  the  wings  are 
smaller  groups — allegorical  figures  of  the 
different  commercial  cities  in  the  world. 
The  principal  hall  is  the  largest  in  Berlin, 
221  by  72  feet,  divided  into  a  Money  and 
Corn  Exchange.  It  is  beautifully  1'iv.— 
coed  by  Klilber.  The  hours  of  the  Bourse 
are  from  12  to  2,  when  strangers  are  admit- 
ted into  the  gallery.  Enter  from  Ncue 
Friedrichstrasse,  the  first  door  to  the  right, 
and,  mounting  one  flight,  turn  to  the  left.  ' 

The  Merchants'  Club  is  situated  over  the 
Exchange,  to  which  your  banker  can  in- 
troduce you. 

To  the  northwest  of  the  Exchange  is 
the  public  garden  of  the  Chateau  Monbi- 
jou,  at  present  inhabited  by  the  Princes* 


Louise,  daughter  of  Prince  Charles.  It  ia 
visiMe  from  10  too,  and  contains  an  Histori- 
cal Museum  composed  of  relics  of  Branden- 
burg and  Prussia.  One  of  the  saloons  is 
exclusively  devoted  to  Frederick  the  Great, 
the  Great  Elector  of  Brandenburg,  Fred- 
crick  I.,  and  Frederick  William  I. 

A  visit  should  be  paid  to  Boraigs's  En- 
gine-Factory, situated  outside  the  Oranien- 
burger  gate  ;  three  thousand  men  are  here 
employed. 

The  Industrial  Museum  is  open  to  visitors 
every  day  except  Monday  from  10  to  2. 
Here  may  be  seen  an  immense  collection 
of  articles  in  all  the  various  branches  of 
industry. 

The  Statues  of  Berlin  are  quite  numer- 
ous, in  addition  to  that  of  Frederick  the 
Great,  already  described.  There  is  on  the 
long  bridge  leading  from  the  Konigstrasse 
toSchlossplatx.  the  equestrian  statue  of 
the  Great  Flu-tor.  Frederick  \\1Uiam.  The 
work  is  in  bronze,  and  designed  by  Schlu- 
ter.  Opposite  the  Guard-house  is  a  bronze 
statue  of  Blucher,  and  on  either  side  are 
marble  statues  of  Seharnhorst  and  Billow 
von  Dennewitz,  both  by  Ranch. 

Behind  the  Guard-house  are  cannons  and 
mortars  brought  from  Paris  after  its  capt- 
ure by  the  allied  armies. 

N-  ir  the  Potsdam  gate  are  statues  of  the 
heroes  of  the  Seven-vears'  War. 

Berlin  is  celebrated  for  works  of  fine 
art,  and  the  best  German  artists  live  here. 
Mr.  N.  L.  Lepke,  No.  4  A  Unter  den 
Linden,  has  generally  on  exhibition  paint- 
ings by  Ludwig  Knaus.  Andreas  and  Os- 
wald Aehenbach.  Meyer  von  Bremen,  Ed. 
Meyerheim.  Ch.  Hoguet,  Carl  Graeb,  W. 
Am'berg,  Carl  Becker.  W.  Kiefstahl.  C.  F. 
Lessing.  B.  Vautier.  Ed.  Hildebrandt,  F. 
Kraus.  and  of  all  the  best  German,  French, 
Dutch,  and  Belgian  painters.  This  exhi- 
bition is  recommended  to  strangers  as  the 
most  interesting  in  the  town. 


The  gold  and  silver  manufactures  of 
Berlin  are  unsurpassed.  In  the  manu- 
facture of  carrnl  furniture  and  fancy 
articles,  among  which  are  wrir'ng  -  desks, 
easy  -  chairs,  card  -  cases,  portfolios,  clock- 
BMM,  wardrobes,  sideboards,  etc.  Berlin 
571 


BERLIN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BERMN". 


also  excels,  and  in.  no  other  city  in  Europe 
are  these  articles  carved  finer  or  sold  cheap- 
er. 

Of  the  Embroidery  Manufactories,  the 
greatest  is  B.  Somerfeld's,  No.  42  Leip- 
zig.'i-strassu,  who  keeps  the  principal  store- 
house of  finished  and  unfinished  embroid- 
eries. 

Grand  Restaurant  Strub. — This  first-class 
and  elegant  restaurant  is  situated  at  No. 
33  Unter  den  Linden,  and  enjoys  the  high- 
est reputation  among  the  grand  monde  of 
Berlin. 

A  rich  assortment  of  statues,  groups  of 
figures,  fountains,  etc.,  is  kept  at  the 
Foundry  for  Objects  of  Art,  A.  Castner 
(late  M.  Geiss),  No.  25  Chausseestrasse. 
Among  the  monumental  productions  of 
this  establishment,  the  first  of  its  kind, 
may  be  mentioned  the  colossal  group  of 
the  Amazon,  after  Kiss,  which  was  pur- 
chased \>y  the  United  States  government 
for  Washington. 


Important  to  English  and  A  merican  Trav- 
elers on  the  Continent.  —  Charles  Riesel,  42 
Jerusalemstrasse,  Berlin, S.W., Tourist  Of- 
fice (Cook's  style).  General  information. 
Reduced-price  tickets  for  the  most  impor- 
tant places  in  Europe  :  Brussels,  Paris, 
London,  St.  Petersburg,  Bonn,  Naples,  Co- 
penhagen, and  for  New  York,  Sidney.  Mel- 
bourne, etc.  Best  guide-books  and  time 
tables.  Mr.  Riesel's  Lexicon  for  Travelers. 
Money  changer.  Sale  of  hotel  coupons: 
breakfast,  dinner,  and  apartments,  8  frs. 
per  day.  Arrangements  for  traveling  par- 
ties. Special  trains  to  the  most  inter- 
esting places  on  the  Continent.  Office 
of  Publicity.  Chief  Office,  42  Jerusalem- 
strasse ;  Branch  Office,  Central  Hotel, 
Friedrichstrasse,  and  Georgenstrasse. 

Berlin  to  Paris  (sleeping-car  from  Co- 
logne), see  Route  145.  Berlin  to  Frunk- 
fort-on-the-Mnin,  fin  Halle ;  time,  11£  h. 
(sleeping-car,  8  marks,  8  P.M.) ;  fare,  48 
marks  90  pf. ; — via  Nordhausen ;  time,  11 
h. ;  fare,  48  marks  90  pf.  (sleeping-car,  at 
7.30  P.M.,  8  marks). 

Berlin  to  Munich;  time,  17£  h.  (sleeping- 
572 


car,  2.30  P.M.,  12  marks);  fare,  Co  marks 
70  pf. ; — to  Vanovie,  17^  h.  (sleeping-car, 
11.15  P.M.);  fare,  C  marks; — to  Vienna 
(sleeping-car,  rin  Dresden,  5.17  P.M.),  15  h. 
12  in. ;  71  marks  (see  Route  186). 


Environs  of  Berlin. — The  Brandenburg 
Gate,  erected  in  1792  at  a  cost  of  $375,000. 
This  structure  was  built  to  imitate  the 
Propylaeum  at  Athens.  It  is  surmounted 
by  a  car  of  victory,  by  Schadotr,  which 
was  carried  to  Paris  in  1806  by  Napoleon 
I.,  but  recovered  by  the  Prussians  when 
Paris  was  captured  by  the  allies  in  1814. 
Passing  through  this  gate,  which  is  the 
terminus  of  Berlin's  principal  street,! 'liter 
den  Linden,  the  Thiergarten  is  entered. 
This  artificial  park  is  about  two  miles  long 
by  one  wide,  and  is  filled  with  magnificent 
trees,  small  lakes,  and  canals,  and  is  inter- 
spersed with  fine  shrubberies ;  the  most 
beautiful  part  of  the  park  is  the  most  dis- 
tant from  the  city.  It  is  separated  into  two 
parts  by  a  wide  avenue ;  here  all  the  world 
of  Berlin  may  be  seen  in  fine  weather. 
The  lakes  and  canals  are  much  used  in 
winter  by  skaters.  Kroll's  Winterg-irten 
is  situated  here,  also  the  places  of  amuse- 
ment called  the  Tentes;  the  chateau  of 
Belleruf,  more  distant.  At  the  extremity 
of  the  park  are  situated  the  Zoological 
Gardens,  about  twenty  minutes'  drive  from 
the  Brandenburg  Gate ;  it  contains  the 
Menagerie  formerly  at  Potsdam,  and  is 
much  frequented  in  the  afternoons  by  the 
Berliners.  Concerts  often  take  place  here. 
There  is  a  good  restaurant. 

Near  the  Louisen-Insel,  on  the  borders 
of  a  canal,  is  the  monument  of  Frederick 
William  ///.,  erected  in  1849  by  the  in- 
habitants of  Berlin.  The  statue  is  by 
Drake,  executed  in  marble,  placed  on  a 
fine  pedestal  highly  or  (lamented;  the  reliefs 
representing  the  blessings  of  peace.  It 
is  covered  in  winter  to  protect  it  from  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather. 

The  avenue  which  divides   the  Thier- 


:SIONS. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


POTSDAM. 


half  an 
Abo 

I'otxla 
inml.i 
conser 
scale. 


garten  into  two  parts  leads  directly  to  Clinr- 
lottenburg.  An  American  tramway  leaves 
the  Kupfergraben  (behind  the  Arsenal  j 
every  10  minute's  for  that  town.  Time, 
half  an  hour:  faiv.  . 

About  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
Gate  arc  situated  the  Botanical 
-•.  which  well  deserve  a  visit.  Its 
conservatories  arc  on  a  most  extensive 
scale,  containing  some  twenty  thousand 
different  plants.  Some  of  the  palms  and 
cactuses  are  enormous. 

Berlin  can  now  boast  of  a  winter-garden 
superior  to  almost  any  thing  of  the  kind  in 
Europe.  It  is  called  the  Flora,  and  is 
situated  at  the  extremity  of  the  city,  in 
Louisenplatz. 

Outside  the  Konigsthor  is  situated  the 
park  of  Friedrickihain-,  and  contiguous  to 

I  it  is  a  very  pretty  cemetery. 
r  the  Halle  Gate,  in  the  Belle  Alli- 
ance Platz,  rises  the  granite  monument, 
surmounted  !>ya  figure  of  Victor}',  erected 
by  Ranch  in  l*4o  to  commemorate  a  peace 
which  had  lasted  twenty-live  years. 

Half  a  mile  beyond  the  Halle  Gate 
stands  the  Volks-Denkmal  (People's  Monu- 
ment). It  consists  of  a  Gothic  cross,  erect- 
ed on  a  sand-hill,  sixty-four  feet  high. 
It  was  designed  by  Schiitkd.  and  thf  statues 
in  the  niches  are  by  Rauch  and  TtC'-k.  It 
was  erected  in  1S21  by  Frederick  William 
III.,  in  memory  of  Prussia's  recovered  in- 
dependence from  the  French. 

Excursions  in  the  riciniti/  of  Berlin: 

1st.  The  most  important,  and  which 
should  on  no  account  be  omitted,  is  that  to 
Potsdam,  the  Versailles  of  Berlin. 

2d.  To  rhaiintti-iibury.  to  visit  the  monu- 
ment of  the  late  King  and  Queen  of  Prus- 
sia. 

:!d.  Tegel.  the  late  residence  of  William 
and  Alexander  von  Humboldt.  This  last 
can  only  be  made  by  carriage,  and  is  nine 
and  a  half  miles  from  the  city.  The  cha- 
teau was  built  by  Schinkel  in  1822,  in  the 
style  of  a  Roman  villa,  and  contains  nu- 
merous works  of  art.  In  the  park  are  the 
tom!)>  of  William  (1>3,V)  and  Alexander 
They  consist  of  a  granite  column 
with  a  copy  of  Hope  by  Tlwriraldsen. 

Kxcitrsion  to  Ch-irlotteitburg  to  see  the 
palace  built  by  the  queen  of  Frederick  I., 
and  the  monuments  of  the  late  King  and 
Queen  of  Prussia.  By  the  American 
tramway  or  public  voiture.  The  first 


class  costs,  for  one  or  two  persons,  1J 
marks ;  for  three  or  four  persons,  2^  marks, 
with  pourboire.  Queen  Ix>uisa,  who  was 
considered  the  most  beautiful  and  amiable 
prince.-s  of  her  day,  is  buried  here  in  a 
small  Doric  temple.  Her  monument,  that 
all  travelers  visit,  is  considered  the  mas- 
terpiece of  the  sculptor  Rauch.  Chariot- 
ten  burg  has  been  rapidly  increasing  in 
growth  and  beauty,  and  now  numbers 
21.210  inhabitants.  It  is  the  summer  resi- 
dence of  many  of  the  richer  class,  and  the 
holiday  resort  of  the  humbler ;  it  origi- 
nally bore  the  name  of  Leitzen.  In  1699, 
Sophia  Charlotte,  queen  of  Frederick  I., 
built  the  Schloss.  It  was  erected  from  de- 
signs by  Schluter,  and  contains  some  very 
fine  works  of  art.  The  gardens  are  open 
to  the  public,  who  throng  here  on  Sundays, 
when  the  weather  is  fine,  for  the  purpose 
of  seeing  the  carp  fed,  and  feeding  them. 
These  are  of  great  age  and  size,  and  are 
very  numerous  in  the  Spree,  which  winds 
through  the  gardens.  When  the  bell  rings 
they  collect  in  shoals,  and  rush  forward  to 
be  fed. 

Passing  through  the  Orangerie,  and 
along  the  alley  of  pine-trees,  in  about  ten 
minutes  the  monument  of  the  beautiful 
I.oiii-e,  queen  of  Prussia,  and  her  husband 
is  readied.  The  temple  is  in  the  Doric 
style  of  architecture,  and  was  designed  by 
Sc/t  i  nktl  at  the  request  of  Frederick  William 
III.,  husband  of  Louise.  The  figure  of 
the  queen  is  a  masterpiece  of  Rauch ;  it 
reposes  on  a  marble  sarcophagus,  the  hands 
folded  on  the  breast.  The  figure  of  her 
husband,  buried  thirty  years  later  (1840), 
is  also  by  Rauch,  and  lies  by  the  side  of 
his  queen.  At  the  feet  of  the  group  is  the 
heart  of  Frederick  William  IV.,  brother  of 
the  present  emperor,  inclosed  in  a  marble 
casket.  He  died  1861.  On  either  side  is 
a  white  marble  candelabrum ;  that  to  the 
right  is  by  Rauch,  and  represents  the  Three 
Fates ;  that  to  the  left  is  by  Tieck,  and 
represents  the  Three  Muses.  The  eruci.ix 
is  by  Achtermannof  Rome. 

Anniversary  services  are  performed  on 
the  7th  of  June  and  19th  of  July. 

Escursion  to  Potsdam. — Several  train? 
daily,  in  30  minutes  :  fare,  first  class.  21 
g. ;  second  class,  10  g. 

The  fountains  play,  in  summer,  every 
Sunday  from  12  o'clock  to  dark  ;  on  Thurs- 
day, the  grand  fountain  only.  A  whole 
573 


POTSDAM. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


POTSDAM. 


day  should  be  devoted  to  this  excursion, 
starting  early  in  the  morning  from  the 
Potsdamer  Bahnhof,  and  taking  a  car- 
riage, on  the  arrival  of  the  train,  for  the 
whole  day,  as  the  different  objects  of  in- 
terest are  not  by  any  means  contiguous. 
A  carriage  will  cost  12  marks,  and  some- 
times more,  exclusive  of  pourboire.  Take 
a  valet-de-place  with  you  by  all  means, 
and  make  a  bargain  with  your  driver. 
The  pourboire  given  to  the  domestics  who 
show  the  palaces,  etc.,  is  usually,  for  one 
person,  H  marks ;  for  a  party,  3  marks. 
•  The  following  order  should  be  adopted  for 
visiting  the  different  sights :  Freundschnfts- 
Tempel,  Palace  of  Sans  Souci,  Windmill, 
Sicilian  Gardens,  New  Palace,  Temple  of 
Friendship,  Charlottenhnf,  Japanese  House, 
Neptune's  Grotto,  Pftngstberg,  Marble  Palace, 
Brauhausberg,  and  the  Castle  of  Babelsberg. 
The  town  contains  43,784  inhabitants,  with 
a  garrison  of  7000  men.  It  is  a  great  sta- 
tion for  the  Prussian  army,  and  is  alto- 
gether military  in  its  aspect.  It  is  beau- 
tifully situated  on  the  River  Havel,  sur- 
rounded by  groves  and  rivulets,  streams 
and  forests,  meadows  and  gardens,  and 
every  thing  to  make  a  landscape  lovely, 
mountains  alone  excepted.  The  archi- 
tecture of  the  houses  is  admirable.  There 
are  five  royal  residences  in  and  about 
it  —  the  palace  of  Sans  Souci,  the  Roy- 
al Palace,  the  New  Palace,  the  Marble 
Palace,  and  Babelsberg.  The  town  was 
founded  by  the  Great  Elector  of  Branden- 
burg, but  owes  its  splendor  principally  to 
Frederick  the  Great.  The  principal  hotels 
arc  the  Einsiedler  and  Deutsches  Haus. 

To  the  south  of  the  long  bridge  over 
which  the  visitor  passes  in  coming  from 
the  station  to  the  town  is  the  Lustgarten, 
inclosed  by  a  double  colonnade.  Near  the 
grand  basin  are  fourteen  busts  of  impor- 
tant personages  in  the  war  of  independ- 
ence ;  they  are  principally  by  Rauch. 
The  military  band  plays  here  on  Sundays 
at  11  o'clock.  Contiguous  is  the  old  pal- 
ace, or  Residenz,  erected  toward  the  close 
of  the  17th  century.  It  contains  nothing 
of  importance  except  the  furniture  used  by 
Frederick  the  Great,  the  covering  of  which 
was  nearly  all  torn  off  by  the  claws  of  his 
dogs  ;  his  writing-table,  covered  with  ink  ; 
his  library  tilled  with  French  books  ;  music 
composed  by  himself,  etc.  The  apart- 
ments are  kept  nearly  in  the  same  manner 
574 


'••  as  when  he  was  alive.  Adjoining  his  bed- 
room there  is  a  small  cabinet  where  he 
used  to  dine  alone,  or  with  a  friend,  with- 
out any  attendance,  every  thing  coming 
through  the  floor  in  a  dumb-waiter,  he 
placing  the  dishes  on  the  table  himself. 
The  apartments  of  Frederick  William  III.. 
with  some  pictures,  standards,  etc.,  also 
those  of  his  queen,  Louise,  remain  intact, 
as  do  those  of  Frederick  William  IV., 
which  contain  some  modern  pictures.  The 
Tabacks-Colleyium,  or  smoking-club,  where 

i  Frederick's  father  used  to  hold  his  boister- 
ous meetings  and  deliver  his  smoking  lect- 
ures, is  bordering  on  the  basin  of  the  lake. 
Opposite  the  Royal  Palace  is  the  Xicholai- 
kirche,  built  by  Sch'nkcl  and  Persius,  sur- 
mounted by  a  splendid  dome,  75  feet  in  di- 
ameter, by  Staler  and  Prufer.  The  front 

!  of  the  portico  is  ornamented  with  a  bass- 

:  relief  of  li  the  Sermon  on  the  Mount,7'  by 

j  Kiss.  The  interior  is  magnificently  dec- 
orated. To  obtain  admission  address  the 
custodian  at  the  side  of  the  church.  In 

j  the  Garnisonskirchf,  in  the  town,  lie  the 
remains  of  Frederick  the  Great.  They  are 
contained  in  a  plain  sarcophagus,  and  lie 
above  the  ground.  He  requested  to  be 
buried  with  his  favorite  dogs  and  war- 
horse  in  the  garden  of  Sans  Souci,  but  his 
request  was  not  complied  with.  Napoleon 
I.  carried  off  his  sword,  which  formerly 
laid  upon  the  top  of  his  coffin.  The  pulpit 
and  walls  are  adorned  with  French  stand- 
ards and  eagles,  also  with  others  captured 
in  the  war  of  1870-71.  The  vault  con- 
tains the  marble  sarcophagus  of  William  I., 
father  to  Frederick  the  Great.  There  are 
also  numerous  Austrian  flags  captured  in 
the  war  of  1866.  Behind  the  pulpit  are 
the  uniforms  the  three  allied  monarchs 
wore  during  the  wars  of  1813-14-15. 
Around  the  walls  are  tablets  with  the 
names  of  the  brave  soldiers  who  distin- 
guished themselves  during  the  war  of  in- 
dependence. 

Wilhelmsplatz  is  decorated  with  the  bron  ze 
statue  of  Frederick  William  III.,  by  Kiss, 
with  the  inscription  "  To  the  Father  of  his 

|  Country."     William  was  born  in  Potsdam. 
The  Hotel  de  Ville  is  built  on  the  model 

|  of  that  of  Amsterdam,  and  is  surmounted 
with  an  immense  Atlas  carrying  the  globe. 
By  the  side  of  this  latter  is  the  Palace 
Barberini,  with  large  halls  of  reunion  for 
the  artistic  and  scientific  societies. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


POTSDAM. 


Sans  Souci  was  built  by  Frederick  the 
Great  on  heights  planted  with  vines,  olives, 
and  orange-trees.  It  is  a  series  of  low 
and  unpretending  buildings,  but  has  a  tine 
colonnade.  The  principal  objects  of  in- 
terest are  the  apartments  in  which  the 
Great  Frederick  died,  it  being  the  perma- 
nent and  almost  exclusive  residence  of 
that  prince.  They  contain  the  clock  he 
used  to  wind  up  with  his  own  hand,  and 
which  stopped  just  at  the  moment  he  died, 
twenty  minutes  past  two.  His  portrait  by 
Feme  is  the  only  one  for  which  he  sat. 
At  the  ends  of  the  terrace  are  the  graves 
of  his  horse  and  dogs. 

The  Picture-Gallery  contains  some  fine 
pictures,  the  most  celebrated  being  a 
Christ's  Head,  by  Raphael,  for  which 
Frederick  the  Great  paid  30,000  ducats. 
Voltaire's  apartment  is  shown  close  to  that 
of  his  royal  host,  its  walls  are  covered  with 
caricatures  illustrating  the  French  philoso- 
pher's habits  and  character. 

Contiguous  to  Sans  Souci  stands  the  fa- 
mous historical  windmill.  Frederick  the 
Great  desired  to  purchase  it,  that  he  might 
pull  it  down  for  the  purpose  of  extending 
his  gardens  in  that  direction  ;  the  miller  re- 
fused, and  the  king  brought  a  suit  against 
him,  but  was  beaten  in  the  court.  He  then 
erected  for  the  miller  the  present  large  mill, 
as  a  monument  of  Prussian  justice.  Some 
years  since,  the  owner,  having  met  with  re- 
verses, offered  to  sell  the  mill  to  the  king. 
who  immediately  settled  enough  on  the 
miller  to  defray  his  debts,  saying  the  mill 
belonged  to  Prussian  history,  and  should 
not  be  removed.  In  the  grounds  of  Sans 
Souci  stands  the  villa  of  Charlottenhof, 
built  by  Frederick  William  ;  it  is  in  imita- 
tion of  a  Pompeian  dwelling,  with  a  bath. 
fountains,  statues,  and  bronzes,  taken  from 
the  ruins  of  Pompeii. 

A  little  to  the  west  of  the  palace  is  the 
Orangeri",  nearly  1000  feet  long,  construct- 
ed in  the  Florentine  style  of  architecture. 
In  the  niches  outside  are  some  fine  statues 
in  marble.  In  the  vestibule  there  is  one 
of  Frederick  William  IV.,  by  Bldser.  The 
principal  portion  of  the  building  is  a  long 
saloon  on  the  ground  floor,  in  which  ;iro 
contained  •!.">  copies  of  Raphaeft  pictures. 
There  is  a  '•  Salle  de  Malachite  "  which  is 
very  beautiful,  and  contains,  with  other 
rooms,  some  fine  pieces  of  sculpture. 
Among  which  are  the  Head  of  an  Adonis, 


POTSDAM. 


by  Thorwaldsen ;  an  Amour  and  Psyche,  by 
Hasenpflurj ;  Hebe  and  the  Eagle,  by  Voss, 
etc.  There  are  also  some  fine  views  in 
the  Holy  Land,  by  }ftld;liraniJt,  and  por- 
traits of  celebrated  Prussians,  by  Begas. 
On  the  terrace  is  a  reproduction  of  the 
Farnese  Bull. 

At  the  entrance  into  the  park  of  Sans 
Souci  is  situated  the  Friedenskirche  (Church 
of  Peace),  erected  from  designs  of  Per- 
sius.  It  is  a  model  of  St.  Clement's 
Church  at  Rome,  and  has  a  detached  tower 
130  feet  high.  It  contains,  among  other 
objects  of  interest,  Ranch's  last  work,  Mo- 
ses, supported  by  Aaron  and  Hur,  praying 
for  victory  over  the  Amalekites.  Opposite 
to  which  are  a  Pieta,  by  Rietschel ;  an  an- 
cient Mosaic  from  the  church  of  St.  Cypri- 
an, at  Murano;  and  a  reproduction  of  the 
Resurrection  of  Christ,  by  Thorwaldsen. 

Near  the  last  church  (in  the  park)  is 

situated  the  Grand  Fountain,  which  throws 

a  stream  of  water  115  feet  high,  and  gen- 

|  erally  plays  during  the  summer  on  Sun- 

!  days  and  Thursdays.     It  is  surrounded  by 

12  statues,  among  which   is  a  Venus,  by 

Pigalle.     To  the  south  is  a  reproduction 

!  of  the  celebrated  statue  of  Frederick  the 

Great,  in  Carrara  marble.     It  is  the  work 

of  an  Italian  artist.      The  porphyry  bust 

situated   at  the  north  of  the   fountain  is 

that  of  Paolo  Giordano,  duke  of  Bracciano : 

it  was  purchased  by  Frederick  the  Great  at 

a  cost  of  815,000. 

An  avenue  over  one  mile  in  length  in- 
tersects the  park  of  Sans  Souci.  and  leads 
to  the  Obelisk ;  in  the  opposite  direction  is 
the  Welnbergs-Thor,  erected  to  commemo- 
rate the  safe  return  of  the  Prince  of  Prussia 
from  the  campaign  against  the  Baden  in- 
surgents. 

To  the  north  of  the  celebrated  windmill 
is  Ruinenberg,  with  artificial  ruins  which 
conceal  the  fountains,  and  to  the  west  are 
the  Sicilian  Gardens,  the  Chinese  Tower, 
and  the  Btlviderc — which  commands  a  pan- 
orama of  the  surrounding  country — the 
(irutto  ofXeptune,  and  the  temple  " des  An- 
tiques." 

About  two  and  a  half  miles  from  Potsdam 

stands  the  .Vt-«'  PaJnce.  erected  by  Frederick 

the  Great  in  1 70S,  after  the  Seven -years' 

War.  at  an  enormous  expense,  to  show  his 

;  enemies  the  extent  of  his  finances  :  some  of 

j  the  apartments  are  beyond  description  in 

the  profusion  and  richness  of  the  marble 

575 


POTSDAM. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.]          BERLIN  TO  PARIS. 


used  ;  one  room  is  entirely  lined  with  shells 
and  minerals  stuck  on  the  walls  to  repre- 
sent a  grotto.  There  are  some  very  good 
paintings  here.  There  are  also  a  theatre 
capable  of  containing  GOO  persons,  a  grand 
ball-room,  and  a  marlile  saloon.  In  a  small 
library,  for  Frederick's  private  use,  there 
is  a  copy  of  the  king's  own  works,  with 
notes  and  criticisms  in  the  handwriting  of 
Voltaire.  The  palace  is  now  used  as  the 
summer  residence  of  the  prince  imperial. 
Facing  the  palace  is  an  immense  building 
called  the  Communs,  used  as  a  barrack  for 
trained  infantry  :  a  draft  is  made  every  [ 
year  from  each  Prussian  regiment  to  prac-  : 
tice  uniformit}-  in  the  regulation  and  drill. 
In  a  small  temple  near  the  palace  is  a  beau- 
tiful statue  of  Louisa,  queen  of  Prussia,  by  : 
Rauch ;  it  is  of  life-size,  and  represents  her 
asleep. 

About  one  mile  southeast  of  the  New 
Palace  stands  the  Italian  villa  of  Charlnt- 
tenhnf,  reconstructed  by  Schinkel  in  1826. 
In  the  vestibule  is  a  bust  of  Schinkel  by 
Rauch ;  in  the  dining-room  is  a  Ganymede 
by  Wrtdow  and  a  David  by  Wolff.  Two 
of  the  rooms  were  set  apart  for  the  use  of 
Alexander  von  Humboldt,  who  was  a  na- 
tive of  Potsdam.  In  the  gardens  there  is  a 
Pompeian  bath  beautifully  decorated  with 
frescoes,  with  numerous  fountains  and  stat- 
ues, and  with  bronzes  brought  from  Pom- 
peii and  Herculaneum. 

About  two  miles'  drive  from  Potsdam  is 
one  of  the  prettiest  spots  in  Prussia,  or  per- 
haps in  Germany  —  Babelsberg,  the  coun- 
try residence  of  the  present  empsror  when 
Prince  Regent  of  Prussia.  It  is  a  modern 
castle  designed  by  Schinkel.  The  house 
is  beautifully  furnished,  and  the  grounds 
laid  out  with  exquisite  taste.  It  contains 
portraits  of  the  royal  family  of  England, 
and  some  fine  specimens  of  the  princess 
imperial's  pencil,  with  numerous  pictures 
by  Hildebramlt.  Mover  von  Bremen,  and 
other  modern  artists.  Visitors  arc  freely  ad- 
mitted. The  housekeeper  expects  a  fee  of 
a  franc  from  each  person.  You  arc  obliged 
to  register  your  name  in  the  visitors'  book 
before  you  leave. 

About  fifteen  minutes'  drive  from  Babels- 
berg  is  the  Marmor- Palais  or  Marble  Pal- 
ace, commenced  by  Frederick  William  II. 
in  1786,  and  finished  by  Frederick  William 
IV.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  small 
lake  called  the  Heiligen-See,  and  filled  with 
57G 


works  of  art,  mostly  by  modern  artists  ; 
among  the  number  (in  the  colonnade)  are 
landscapes  by  Lompeck,  with  views  of 
the  principal  cities  of  Kliineland,  Aix-la- 
Chapclle,  Spires,  Troves.  Mctz,  Cologne, 
Urachenfels,  etc. :  on  the  Danube, Vienna, 
Biula-Pesth,  etc.  In  the  interior  are  nu- 
merous Egyptian  and  Greek  landscapes, 
with  modern  sculpture  by  Canova,  Thor- 
waldsen,  Drake,  etc.,  and  portraits  by  Be- 
gus  of  eminent  writers  and  composers, 
etc.,  such  as  Humboldt,  Meyerbeer.  Men- 
delssohn, Rauch,  Schinkel,  etc.  The  kitch- 
en, which  is  some  distance  from  the  palace, 
is  built  to  resemble  a  temple,  and  is  con- 
nected with  the  main  building  by  a  sub- 
terranean passage. 

The  Pjinfi.-'tlii  r<j.  which  rises  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  Marble  Palace,  is  ornamented 
with  towers,  from  which  a  most  extensive 
view  can  lie  had  of  the  surroundings,  with 
Berlin,  Brandenburg,  etc.,  in  the  distance. 

Near  Glicnicke,  where  there  is  a  good 
restaurant,  is  a  chateau,  the  property  of 
Prince  Frederick  Charles.  It  is  surround- 
ed by  a  park  and  garden.  In  the  grounds 
is  a  hunting -lodge  of  the  Great  Elector, 
which  has  been  restored  by  Prince  Charles. 


ROUTE  No.  145. 

Berlin  to  Paris,  or  vice  versa  (mail 
route),  fin  Mcndal.  Hanoi-fr,  Min'len,  Dus- 
stldorf.  Cologne,  and  Aix-la-Chapelle.  Time, 
21  h.  40  m.  (not  including  stoppage  at  Co- 
logne; to  Cologne,  express.  9  h.  15  m.). 
Fare,  first  class,  100  marks  80  pf. ;  second 
class  in  Germany  and  first  in  France 
(Mixtc),  83  marks' £0  pf.  From  Berlin  to 
Cologne,  first  class,  51!  marks  30  pf. ;  sec- 
ond class.  39  marks  CO  pf.  Sleeping  car 
(Cologne-Paris-,  by  10.30  P.M..  or  8  P.M. 
from  Paris.  15  frs. ;  (Cologne-Berlin),  8 
P.M.  or  10  P.M.  from  Berlin,  8  marks. 

In  1  h.  44  in.  (express)  the  train  reaches 
Stendal  junction,  where  a  line  branches  off 
for  Belgium  and  Holland,  via  Bremen  and 
Xordhausen.  another  to  Hamburg  via  Wit- 
tenberg, and  another  to  Magdeburg. 


HlMJESHEIM. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY. ! 


HAXOVBK. 


la!  (hotels,  Schwan  and  Adler)  is  an  j 
ancient  city,  formerly  the  capital  of  the 
AUmarkt,  resilience  of  the  Margraves  of 
Brandenburg.  It  contains  two  interesting 
old  churches  of  the  15th  century,  the  <'ath<- 
tlrnl  and  .V/.  .l/«r>/V  Church.  The  lloland's 
Column,  and  an  old  palace  of  Henry  the  ' 
Fowler  (now  an  inn),  and  two  old  irate- 
ire  the-  only  objects  worthy  of  not;1. 
Stendal  was  the  birthplace  of  the  archseol- 
o.'i.-f  \\'inckelniann.  who  was  innrdered  at 
Tric-t:-  in  17'J*.  A  statue  has  been  erect- 
ed to  him. 

Diligences  leave  three  times  a  day  for 

T'iritfi  rmi'tit'lf,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 

\en  miles  distant.    It  contains  4000 

inhabitants,  and   has   a   most   interesting 

Rathhans. 

Pas.-ing    Obiffelde   station    and    Lherte, 
where  branch   lines  run  to  Hambiu 
Cil'i'.  ami  In  Hl!d-  ah<:im  on  the  south. 

[From   Lherte  to  Ilildesheim.  time,  40 
minutes  :   fare.   lir>t    class.   -J    marks  ;  sec-  j 
ond  class,  1^  marks. 

f/ildfshtim  is  an  old  city  of  21,000  in- 
habitants. Ilijtel  d'Angleterre.  It  was  the 
capital  of  an  ancient  Episcopal  See  founded 
in  *!">,  and  remained  a  free  city  until  1803. 
It  po-sesses  many  curious  old  houses  with 
fine  wood  carvings.  The  principal  object 
of  attraction  is  the  Dom  or  Cathedral,  a 
fine  old  specimen  of  the  Romanesque  style, 
erected  between  10JO  and  1150.  Its  inte- 
rior style  was  completely  disfigured  in  re- 
pairing it  in  the  l*th  century.  Notice  at 
the  entrance  to  the  choir  a  colored  ala- 
baster pillar  called  the  Irm<  nsaulf ;  it  is 
said  to  have  l-een  an  idol  of  the  Saxons, 
and  was  brought  from  Corvey.  The  bronze 
bronze  font,  and  gilt  shrine  are  all 
deserving  particular  attention. 

St.  Michael's  Church,  erected  at  the  com- 

encement  of  the  llth  century,  has  a  fine 
;  the  walls  of  the  choir  are  orna- 
mented with  figures  of  the  apostle?;  the 
paintings  on  the  ceilings  date  from  the 
iL'th  century. 

St.   Martin's    Church    has    been    trans- 
formed  into  a  museum,  and   posse- 
good  collection   of  objects  of  the  Middle 

It  wa*  near  Ilildesheim  that  a  tine  col- 
lection of  Roman  plate  was  found  (de- 
scribed in  the  Berlin  Museum)]. 


nn 

id 


HANOVER. 

The  kingdom  of  Hanover,  now  a  prov- 
ince of  Prussia,  occupies  a  large  part  of 
North  western  Germany.  Its  northern 
boundary  is  the  North  Sea;  on  the  south 
it  is  bounded  by  the  Prussian  dominions; 
on  the  east  by  Prussia  and  the  course 
of  the  River  Elbe,  which  divides  it  from 
Mecklenburg  and  Holstein  ;  and  on  the 
west  by  Holland.  A  small  detached  por- 
tion of  Hanover  is  separated  from  the  rest 
of  the  kingdom  by  the  little  territory  of 
Brunswick.  In  the  detached  part  of  Han- 
over, to  the  southeast,  is  the  metalliferous 
group  of  the  Hart/.  Mountains ;  their  high- 
est summit,  the  Brocken,  is  famous  for  its 
spectral  appearances — a  gigantic  reproduc- 
tion of  the  figures  of  the  spectator  and  of 
surrounding  objects  upon  the  white  veil  of 
mist  which  envelops  the  mountain  at  ear- 
ly dawn. 

The  late  reigning  family  derived  its  ori- 
gin from  the  union  of  the  Marquis  d'Este, 
in  the  eleventh  century,  with  a  wealthy 
princess  of  Bavaria,  the  issue  of  which 
received  the  surname  of  Guelph  from 
his  maternal  ancestors,  and  inherited  the 
dukedom  of  Bavaria.  Henry  the  Proud, 
third  in  descent  from  him  last  mentioned, 
married  Gertrude,  the  ruling  princess  of 
Brunswick.  Their  son.  well  known  in  the 
history  of  the  Crusades  as  Henry  the  Lion 
(born  11-20  i,  was  the  tirst  (fUeipk  Duke  of 
Brunswick.  He  married  a  daughter  of  Hen- 
ry II.,  king  of  England,  and  from  this  mar- 
riage both  the  houses  of  Brunswick  and 
Luneburg  are  descended.  The  Reformation 
numbered  the  princes  of  Brunswick  among 
its  most  zealous  supporters,  and  their  snb- 
Vcts,  during  the  thirty-years'  war,  warmly 
seconded  their  anti-papal  efforts.  Ernest  of 
Zell,  the  reigning  duke,  was  one  of  the  most 
eloquent  defenders  of  Luther  at  the  Diet 
of  Worms.  His  endeavors  to  improve  the 
people,  by  establishing  clerical  and  gener- 
al schools,  when  learning  was  esteemed 
only  by  the  few,  show  him  to  be  a  man  of 
enlightened  views.  His  grandson.  Ern.->t 
Augustus,  married  Sophia,  granddaughter 
of  James  I.  of  England  (by  his  daughter 
Elizabeth,  the  wife  of  the  Elector-Palatine), 
and  on  this  marriage  was  founded  the  claim 
of  the  elder  branch  of  the  house  of  Bruns- 
wick to  the  English  crown,  acknowledged 
577 


HANOVER. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


HANOVER. 


by  Parliament  in  1701.  George  Louis  was 
issue  of  this  marriage,  and  became  king 
of  England  in  1714,  from  which  time  till 
1837,  at  the  death  of  William  IV.,  both 
England  and  Hanover  have  had  the  same 
sovereign.  The  Salic  law,  which  is  in 
force  in  Hanover,  by  which  the  crown  does 
not  pass  to  the  female  line,  then  conferred 
the  Hanoverian  crown  on  Ernest,  duke  of 
Cumberland,  fifth,  but  eldest  surviving  son 
of  George  III. 

In  1804  Prussia  took  possession  of  Han- 
over, but  ceded  it  in  the  same  year  to 
the  French,  who  constituted  it  a  part  of 
the  kingdom  of  Westphalia,  established  in 
1808  to  make  a  kingdom  for  Jerome  Bona- 
parte. At  the  peace  of  1813,  the  King  of 
Great  Britain  reclaimed  his  rightful  do- 
minions, which  were  much  enlarged  by 
the  stipulations  of  the  treaty  of  Vienna, 
and  formed  into  a  kingdom,  nntil  absorbed 
in  1866  by  the  King  of  Prussia.  King 
George  protested  against  the  annexation 
of  his  territory  at  Vienna,  in  September, 
1866. 

Hanover,  the  capital  of  the  Prussian 
province  of  Hanover,  and  previous  to 
June,  1866,  of  the  kingdom  of  the  same 
name,  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  midst  i 
of  a  plain,  upon  the  banks  of  the  swift- 
flowing  Leine,  an  affluent  of  the  Weser. 
A  large  and  picturesque  forest,  which  con 
tains  the  Zoological  Gardens  and  numer 
ous  romantic  drives  and  walks,  is  situated 
on  the  northern  border,  stretching  its  arnip 
into  the  city,  and  protecting  it  against  the 
cold  north  wind.  Population,  with  its  sub- 
urb, Linden,  140,000 ;  city  proper,  126,000. 
Hotels:  Royal  Hotel,  for  many  years  a  fa- 
vorite resort  of  English  and  Americans. 
Continental  Hotel,  a  magnificent  new  house, 
with  lift,  near  the  Royal  Theatre.  Han- 
over is  much  resorted  to  by  English  and 
Americans  on  account  of  the  purity  with 
which  the  German  language  is  spoken. 


Between  the  station  and  hotel  there  is 
a  fine  equestrian  bronze  statue  of  Ernest 
Augustus. 

The  streets  of  the  new  town  are 
lined  with  handsome  houses,  particular- 
ly George  Street  and  Frederick  Street, 
opening  on  Waterlooplatz,  which  serves 
578 


for  a  parade-ground.  It  is  adorned  with 
a  handsome  monumental  rotunda  of  Leib- 
nitz, the  philosopher  and  mathematician. 
On  the  south  side  of  the  square  stands 
the  Waterloo  column,  156  feet  high,  sur- 
mounted by  a  figure  of  Victory,  sacred 
to  the  memory  of  the  Hanoverians  who 
fell  in  the.  battle  of  Waterloo.  On  the 
north  side  of  the  square  stands  a  statue 
of  General  Alten,  commander  of  the  Han- 
overian legion  in  Spain.  The  principal 
public  buildings  are  the  royal  palace,  or 
Schloss,  of  very  good  exterior,  and  beauti- 
fully fitted  up  within.  Visible  every  day 
from  9  to  5.  The  Rittersaal,  or  Knights' 
Hall,  is  splendidly  furnished,  and  contains 
some  very  fine  portraits.  Among  the  best 
are  Napoleon,  Wellington,  George  I.,  II., 
III.,  and  IV.  of  England.  The  Opera-house 
is  a  very  handsome  building;  also  the  Mint, 
Arsenal,  and  viceroy's  palace.  Opposite 
the  theatre  is  the  Polytechnic  School,  which 
contains  nearly  300  pupils.  The  royal  sta- 
bles, where  the  well-known  breed  of  black 
and  cream-colored  Hanoverian  horses  are 
kept,  are  well  worth  a  visit.  This  is  the 
same  stock  that  draws  the  state  carriage 
of  the  Queen  of  England.  The  Schloss- 
kirche  is  one  of  the  handsomest  churches 
in  the  city;  it  contains  the  remains  of  the 
Electress  Sophia  and  her  son,  George  I., 
king  of  England.  In  the  picture-gallery 
of  Baurath  Hausman  there  are  some  very 
fine  pictures. 

On  the  Place  George  is  erected  a  colos- 
sal statue  of  Schiller,  by  Engelhard. 

The  Museum  is  situated  No.  2  Sophien- 
strasse.  It  is  open  even'  day  except  Fri- 
days (fee,  half  mark)  from  11  to  2 ;  Wed- 
nesdays, 2  to  4  ;  on  Sundays,  entrance  free. 
The  Museum  comprises  a  gallery  of  paint- 
ings and  sculptures,  an  historical  collection, 
and  a  cabinet  of  natural  history.  It  also 
contains  a  reproduction  of  the  J/ildesheim 
Plate,  by  Christolfe,  now  in  the  Berlin 
Museum. 

The  collection  of  pictures  formerly  in  the 
chateau  of  George  V.  is  now  to  be  seen  at 
No.  13  Landschaftsstrasse,  every  day.  A 
small  fee  is  expected.  The  guardian  lives 
in  a  court  to  the  right.  On  the  first  floor 
there  are  a  few  good  modern  pictures ;  on 
the  second  floor  are  the  ancient  masters, 
specimens  of  Van  Dj'ck,  Teniers,  Paul  Ve- 
ronese, Rembrandt,  Rubens,  Caraeci,  etc. 

A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  Old  Tenon 


HANOVER. 

to  sec  the  old  Hotel  de  Ville,  erected  about 
the  middle  of  the  15th  century.  In  front 
of  tliis  latter  is  the  Market  Church  of  near- 
ly a  century  curlier  date;  restored  in  1855. 

The  Royal  Theatre  is  one  of  the  largest 
in  German}-,  and  contains  the  celebrated 
curtain  painted  by  liumslerg. 

Tlu!  Royal  Library  is  open  every  day, 
with  the  exception  of  Wednesdays  and 
Saturdays,  from  12  to  1,  and  on  those 
days  from  12  to  2  ;  it  contains  200,000 
vols.  uirl  :><MM)  MSS.,  many  of  which  are 
remarkable. 

The  Aquarium,  established  in  186(5,  has 
twenty-two  basins  of  water,  lighted  from 
aliovo.  The  collection  is  very  good;  en- 
trance, half  mark. 

The  Odeon  and  Tivoli  music-gardens  are 
two  of  the  best  establishments  of  the  kind 
in  Europe. 

There  is  also  a  permanent  Indus/rial  Ex- 
hibition open  every  day.  entrance  2£  g. 

Passing  through  the  (jeor yen-Park  along 
the  Htrrfi,h-in*n  A  life,  a  beautiful  avenue 
of  lime-trees,  the  palace  of  Herrenhausen 
is  reached.  This  was  the  favorite  resi- 
dence of  George  I.,  II.,  and  V.  The  build- 
ing is  rather  unpretentious;  the  gardens, 
which  cover  some  120  acres,  arc  laid  out  in 
the,  French  style,  and  contain  a  small  the- 
atre, fountains,  etc.  There  is  .1  building 
adjoining  the  palace  called  GaUeneffebdude, 
whi''h  contains  a  collection  of  ancient  and 
modern  sculptures.  Near  this  are  the 
iiranijcrirs  and  Bfrgijaricn,  rich  in  flowers. 
In  the  former  dwelling  of  the  director,  a 
Museum  af  A  ntiqnitii's  has  been  established, 
called  the  Welfen  Museum  ;  open  Mondays. 
Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  garden  is  the  Roy- 
al Mausoleum  of  Ernest  Augustus  and  his 
queen.  The  statues  are  in  Carrara  mar- 
bio,  by  Rnuch  ;  they  arc  not  shown. 

The  astronomer  Herschel  was  a  native 
of  Hanover,  and  was  originally  a  musician 
in  the  royal  band. 

To  the  northeast  of  Hanover  lies  the  fine 
forest  of  Eilenrode,  at  the  extremity  of 
which  are  the  Zoological  Gardens.  Leib- 
nitz, the  philosopher,  spent  the  greater  part 
<>f  his  life  in  Hanover.  His  house  and  the 
room  where  he  died  are  to  be  seen. 

There  are  numerous  excursions  in  the 
vicinity  of  Hanover,  which  will  be  pointed 
out  by  the  hotel  proprietor  if  making  a 
lengthened  stay. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.  ] 


MlNDEJJ. 


/•'mm  Umiorer  to  Hamburg.  Time,  3  h. 
•45  m.;  fare,  first  class,  17i  marks;  second 
class,  13  marks  10  pf. 

from  Hanover  to  Cologne.  Time,  5  h. 
15  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  30  marks  30  pf. ; 
second  class,  22  marks  50  pf. 

From  li\inover  to  Bremen.  Time,  3  h. 
8  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  10  marks  20  pf. ; 
second  class,  7  marks  60  pf. 

From  Hanover  to  Berlin,  via  Magde- 
burg and  Brunswick.  Time,  4  h.  10  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  23  marks  20  pf. ;  second 
class,  17  marks  20  pf. 

from  Hanover  to  Mindm.  Time,  1  h. 
12  m.  ;  fare,  first  class,  5  marks  2  g. ;  sec- 
ond class,  3  marks  9  g, 

In  twelve  minutes  from  Hanover  the 
station  of  Buckeburg  is  passed.  This  is 
the  principal  town  of  the  small  principal- 
ity of  Schaumburg-Lippe.  Hotel,  Deut- 
sches  Haus.  The  town  contains  4500  in- 
habitants ;  but  there  is  nothing  of  interest 
to  see  except  the  palace  gardens  of  the 
prince.  The  palace  is  any  thing  but  mag- 
nificent. In  one  hour 

Minden,  a  strongly  fortified  town  on  the 
River  Weser,  is  reached:  it  contains  17,000 
inhabitants.  Hotels,  Eisenbahn-Gasthof 
and  Twietmeyer.  The  new  barracks  and 
cathedral  are  its  principal  buildings.  The 
last  named  is  a  Gothic  structure,  dating 
from  the  13th  century.  The  six  windows 
in  the  aisle  are  noted  for  their  beautiful 
tracery.  Under  the  altar-piece,  at  the 
southern  entrance,  is  a  painting  by  All?- 
grever  of  the  meeting  of  the  Saxon  duke 
Witikind  with  Charlemagne.  The  last 
has  some  very  pretty  windows.  The  for- 
tifications were  blown  up  by  Frederick 
the  Great  at  the  end  of  the  Seven-years' 
War,  but  have  since  been  rebuilt.  A  lit- 
tle north  of  the  town  lies  the  field  where 
the  battle  of  Minden  was  fought  in  1759, 
where  Prince  Ferdinand  of  Brunswick  de- 
feated the  French.  The  Weser  is  here 
crossed  by  a  fine  stone  bridge  600  fee<i 
long,  one  of  the  arches  of  which  was' 
blown  up  by  the  French  in  1813.  There 
is  nothing  to  be  seen  here  of  sufficient  im- 
portance to  detain  the  traveler.  There  are 
steamers  on  the  Weser  which  ply  between 
Minden  and  Bremen. 

Porta  Station. — The  River  Weser  here 

through  a  deep  gap.     On  one  of  tin- 

banks  formerly  stood  a  castle  of  the  Saxon 

Witikind,  now  replaced  by  a  stone  tower. 

579 


REHMES. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


OBERHAUSEN. 


Near  it  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  chapel 
in  which  it  is  said  Charlemagne  baptized 
Witikind. 

Returns. — This  place  is  noted  for  its  salt- 
works belonging  to  the  Prussian  govern- 
ment. The  artesian  well  from  \vhich  the 
brine  is  obtained  has  been  bored  to  the 
depth  of  742  yards,  nearly  half  a  mile. 
Four  thousand  persons  are  employed. 
Brine  baths  have  been  established  in  the 
vicinity  (Bad  Oeynhattsen),  which  are  con- 
sidered efficacious  in  cases  of  gout  and 
rheumatism.  Hotels,  Vogler  and  Victoria. 

The  line  now  passes  iJJhne  junction, 
whence  a  line  branches  oft'  to  Osnabriick, 
Rheine,  and  Arnhem;  but  if  the  traveler 
is  intending  to  visit  Holland,  the  most  ex- 
peditious route  is  to  continue  on  to  the 
Oberhausen  junction. 

Herford,  the  second  town  in  the  county 
of  Ravensberg,  contains  11,000  inhabitants. 
Principal  hotel,  Stadt  Berlin.  The  Miin- 
sterkirche,  a  large  Romanesque  church,  was 
formerly  attached  to  the  nunnery  founded 
by  the  Saxon  Witikind,  and  dates  from 
the  10th  century.  It  contains  the  sar- 
cophagus of  Witikind,  wbo  was  eventual- 
ly compelled  to  submit  to  Charlemagne, 
and  be  baptized  by  him. 

Bielefeld  station  is  reached  in  twenty- 
five  minutes.  This  town,  which  contains 
some  19,000  inhabitants,  is  the  central  sta- 
tion for  the  Westphalian  linen  trade,  and 
most  of  its  inhabitants  are  occupied  in  that 
traffic.  Hotel,  Drei  Kronen.  On  the  hill 
above  the  town  rises  the  old  castle  of  <Spo- 
renbery,  used  for  the  last  century  as  a 
prison. 

To  the  south  of  BracLiccde  station  lies 
the  Teutoburgian  forest,  on  the  southern 
slopes  of  which  the  defeat  and  death  of  the 
Roman  general  Varus  by  Arminius,  chief 
of  the  Cherusci,  took  place. 

Gi/firsloh.  —  Hotel,  Jteiters.  This  town 
is  noted  for  being  the  principal  depot  for 
Westphalian  hams,  German  sausages,  and 
the  famous  "Pumpernickel,"  or  brown 
bread  of  Westphalia.  This  bread  is  eaten 
by  all  classes  of  people,  and  is  considered  a 
delicacy  by  many  ;  the  coarser  kind  is  oft- 
en given  to  horses.  It  is  made  of  bran,  or 
the  unsifted  rye  flour.  The  name  is  said 
to  be  a  corruption  of  the  French  words 
"bon  pour  Nickel,"  a  French  soldier  of 
Napoleon's  army  having  pronounced  it  too 
bad  for  himself,  butgood  for  his  horse  Nickel. 
580 


Ilamm  junction  is  the  capital  of  the 
county  of  Mark,  and  contains  16,000  in- 
habitants. It  is  the  junction  of  lines  to 
Minister  and  Emden  in  the  north,  and 
Paderborn  and  Cassel  to  the  south  and 
east. 

Dortmund,  two  hours  from  Minden,  is 
the  junction  of  numerous  small  local  lines 
of  railway,  and  is  the  largest  and  most  im- 
portant town  in  Westphalia.  It  contains 
45,000  inhabitants.  Hotels,  IVencker-Pax- 
mann  and  JJdlevtie.  This  was  once  an  im- 
perial town,  and  member  of  the  Hanseatic 
League.  The  Church  of  St.  ReinhM  has 
;  some  line  painted  windows.  Some  of  them 
:  represent  the  imperial  eagle  in  Westpha- 
lian colors — green,  black,  and  white.  The 
altar  is  decorated  with  a  carved  crucifixion 
and  the  twelve  apostles. 

The  Marienkirche  is  an  elegant  and  lofty 
church  in  the  Gothic  and  Romanesque 
style.  It  contains  two  fine  altar-pieces. 

In  the  Middle  Ayes  Dortmund  was  a 
place  of  great  celebrity,  being  the  seat  of 
the  supreme  court  of  the  Westphalian  se- 
cret society  called  the  Vehmgericht,  which 
for  six  centuries  extended  its  sway  over 
the  whole  of  Germany  and  numbered  100,- 
000  members,  and  here  the  Emperor  iSigis- 
mund  himself  was  initiated  in  the  Konigs- 
hof  under  the  linden-trees.  The  members 
were  bound  by  the  most  fearful  oaths  to 
keep  secret  the  proceedings  of  the  court 
and  to  execute  the  decrees  of  the  tribunal. 
The  last  session  of  the  society  was  held  in 
1803.  One  of  the  lime-trees  in  the  Konigs- 
hof  still  exists  and  is  said  to  be  over  four 
hundred  years  old. 

Oberhausen  junction,  a  station  of  great 
bustle  and  excitement,  a  continual  chang- 
ing of  carriages  and  passing  of  trains. 
Travelers  from  France  or  the  Rhine  on  the 
route  to  Holland  change  cars,  also  those 
coming  from  Berlin,  Hanover,  etc.,  for  Hol- 
land. There  is  also  a  direct  line  from 
Oberhausen  to  Aix-la-Chapelle  passing  by 
Cologne. 

From  Oberhausen  to  A  msterdam.  Time, 
4  h.  20  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  15  marks  6  g. , 
second  class,  12  marks  2  g. 

From  Oberhausen  to  Rotterdam.  Time, 
4  h. ;  fare,  first  class,  17  marks  3  g. ;  sec- 
ond class,  13  marks  G  g. 

[From  Oberhausen  to  Emmerich,  the  last 
Prussian  town  on  the  Holland  frontier. 
Time,  1  h.  5  m. 


WESEL. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


DLSSELDORF. 


Thirty  minutes  from  Oberhausen  (on  the 
line  to  Holland)  is 

II".-.'.  :i  fortress  of  the  first  class,  situ- 
ated at  the  junction  of  the  Lippe  with  the 
Kiiin  •.  It  contains  17,000  inhabitants. 
Hotel,  Dornbus*  h.  The  Gothic  Hitthhaiis, 
which  dates  from  the  14th  century,  is  a 
very  interesting  building,  lately  restored. 
The  church  of  SI.  Wil'<bro<J.  which  dates 
from  the  12th  century,  lias  been  restored, 
and  is  iruch  injured  by  the  restoration. 

On  an  elevated  position  near  the  station 
a  monument  has  been  erected  to  the  eleven 
Prussian  officers  who  were  shot  by  Napo- 
leon I.  for  having  t  iken  part  in  the  revolt 
of  Major  Schill  at  Stralsund. 

Opposite  Wesel  is  the  tete-du-pont,  Fort 
E'ui-ker,  formerly  called  Fort  Napoleon. 

Thirty  minutes  from  Wesel  is  situated 

Emmerich,  a  frontier  Prussian  town  con- 
taining 7750  inhabitants.  It  has  a  large 
garrison,  and  bairgaire  is  examined  coming 
from  Holland  (leave  your  small  b:i_ 
in  the  carriages,  they  will  be  perfectly 
safe).  The  //.'•/>-/  Ilni/ul,  near  the  station, 
is  very  good.  There  is  nothing  of  interest 
to  detain  the  traveler. 

For  the  remainder  of  this  route  to  Rot- 
terdam and  Amsterdam,  see  Route  144, 
Vol.  I.] 

Fifteen  minutes  from  Oberhausen  on  the 
route  to  Cologne  and 

Duisburffis  reached.  This  is  a  manufact- 
uring town  of  31,000  inhabitants  ;  the  cen- 
tre of  a  most  important  coal  district,  and 
rapidly  improving  in  wealth  and  population. 

A  short  branrli  railway  leads  to  the  im- 
portant manufacturing  town  of 

«,  noted  especially  for  the  celebrated 
Kmpp  Steel  Foundry.  It  contains  51,500 
inhabitants,  and  was  a  free  city  down  to 
15ti:.i,  when  it  was  placed  under  the  protec- 
tion of  an  abbess. 

The  Miinsterkircke,  which  dates  from  the 
10th  century,  was  founded  by  the  Emperor 
Otho  III.  Its  cloisters  and  altar-piece 
were  restored  in  1850.  It  contains  a  most 
curious  old  candelabrum  presented  to  the 
church  in  098  by  the  Abbess  Alhaidis, 
daughter  of  Otho  II..  and  a  M.S.  of  the 
Gospels  executed  in  1060. 

The  Sled  Factory  of  Hfrr  Krupp  is  the 
largest  in  the  world,  covering  ne.irly  5u(t 
acres,  and  occupying  7000  men  ;  -2  it)  steam- 
engines  are  continually  running,  employing 
a  force  of  8500  horses.  There  are  50  steam- 


hammers  and  240  furnaces,  using  annually 
78,000  tons  of  coal. 

The  steel  guns  of  Krupp  were  first  used 
by  the  Viceroy  of  Egypt,  and  by  the  Ger- 
mans during  the  last  war  with  France. 
Strangers  are  not  admitted  to  see  the  works. 

Dusseldorf.  one  of  the  prettiest  and  best- 
built  cities  of  the  Rhenish  provinces,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Rhine  at  the  junction  of  the  river  Diissel. 
from  which  it  takes  its  name.  (The  Rhine 
is  here  crossed  by  a  bridge  of  boats.)  It 
contains  69,500  inhabitants.  Principal  ho- 
tel, Breidenbnchcr ;  much  enlarged  in  1875, 
and  one  of  the  best  in  Germany ;  admira- 
bly conducted  by  Herr  Mann.  Dussel- 
dorf was  the  capital  of  the  duchy  of  Berg 
until  the  commencement  of  the  18th  cen- 
tury:  for  one  hundred  years  more,  of  the 
Princes  Palatine ;  when  they  removed  to 
Mannheim,  and  afterward  to  Munich.  Un- 
til the  peace  of  Luneville,  Dusseldorf  was  a 
fortitieu  iown.  some  remains  of  the  defenses 
being  still  visible ;  but  at  the  present  time 
it  is  surrounded  by  gardens  and  pleasant 
walks.  The  Hofgarten,  in  which  is  situ- 
ated the  residence  of  the  Prince  Hohen- 
zollern,  cousin  to  the  Emperor  William, 
abounds  with  beautifully  shaded  walks. 
It  extends  from  the  Grand  Allee  down  to 
the  Rhine,  and  is  the  place  of  general  re- 
sort for  the  inhabitants  of  this  famed  little 
city,  which  contains  at  present  nothing 
worthy  of  notice  save  the  school  of  its  liv- 
ing artists  (and  a  very  popular  school  it  is 
among  American  art-lovers).  They  for- 
merly occupied  the  palace  near  the  Rhine 
built  by  the  Elector  John  William,  whose 
bronze  equestrian  statue  stands  in  the 
market-place.  The  palace  was  partially 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1872,  since  which  time 
the  collection  is  in  the  Tonhalle  in  Scha- 
dowstrasse.  The  main  portion  of  the  edi- 
fice was  destroyed  by  the  bombardment  of 
the  French  in  1794.  It  was  here,  up  to 
1805,  the  famous  collection  of  pictures — 
now  of  world-wide  celebrity,  and  known  as 
the  Munich  Gallery — was  to  be  seen.  All 
were  at  that  time  removed  save  one  large 
painting  of  inferior  quality,  '-The  Ascen- 
sion of  the  Virgin,''  said  to  be,  by  Rubens, 
which  was  left  behind. 

There  is  a  most  remarkable  collection  of 

drawings  by  tin-  old  masters  nearly  15,000 

in  number,  including  several  by  Raphael, 

A.   Montagua,    (itiido,   Romano,   Domeni- 

681 


DfSSELDORF. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


COLOGNE. 


chino,  Michael  Angel o,  Titian,  etc.,  etc. ; 
also  about  380  water- color  copies  of  the 
most  remarkable  paintings  of  the  Italian 
school  from  the  fourth  century,  by  Rantoul. 
Below  this  gallerv  is  the  public  library. 

The  modern  school  of  Diisseldorf  artists, 
which  has,  most  curiously,  risen  up  since 
the  removal  of  the  old  picture  -  gallery, 
was  only  originated  in  1828,  under  the 
direction  of  the  great  Cornelius  (a  native 
of  the  town),  in  whose  studio  most  of  the 
distinguished  artists  of  this  school  first  dis- 
played their  now  acknowledged  talents. 
The  artists  in  1860  purchased  the  celebra- 
ted residence  of  the  poet  Jacoby,  and  there 
established  their  club,  known  as  the  "  Mal- 
kasten  "  (Painters'  box).  Strangers  can 
easily  procure  admission  thereto  by  intro- 
duction of  any  artist,  and  then  can  have 
the  proud  privilege  of  roaming  through  the 
gardens  where  Goethe,  Schiller,  Lessing 
(the  poet),  and  all  the  most  celebrated  men 
of  their  time  were  wont  to  congregate. 

The  Hofkirche  contains  some  monu- 
ments of  former  princes  and  some  modern 
pictures  by  Dusseldorf  artists. 

Diisseldorf  is  the  residence  of  up- 
ward of  200  artists,  who  mostly  exhibit 
iheir  works  at  the  general  and  perma- 
nent exhibition  of  Mr.  Schulte.  This  es- 
tablishment has  on  exhibition  and  for 
sale  not  only  paintings  by  all  eminent 
artists  of  the  Dusseldorf  school,  such  as 
Andreas  and  Oswald  Achenbach,  Knauss, 
Yautier.  Defregger,  Diicker,  Preyer.  Oeder, 
Meyer  von  Bremen.  Rotta,  Fritz  Aug.  Kaul- 
bach,  von  Bachmann,  Kiesel,  Karl  Lohn 
Kowalski,  and  others,  but  also  works  of 
other  German  and  foreign  schools. 


There  is  an  English  Church  service  on 
Sundays  at  the  German  Protestant  Tem- 
ple, Bergerstrasse,  at  1H  A.M. 

A  most  noteworthy  fact  is  the  establish- 
ment in  this  city  of  the  celebrated  Dr. 
Mooren,  the  oculist,  who.  to  aid  the  poor, 
lias  given  up  a  most  lucrative  practice  to 
take  the  management  of  the  Ophthalmic 
Institution  of  this  town.  Thousands  of 
cases  yearly  are  either  cured  or  their  suf- 
ferings alleviated  by  this  most  worthy  ben- 
efactor of  the  human  race.  Parties  from 
582 


all  parts  of  the  world  flock  to  this  young 
man — from  China.  India,  Africa,  America, 
England — nay.  it  would  be  difficult  to  state 
from  whence  they  come  not;  and  though 
large  sums  are  frequently  offered  to  secure 
his  services,  yet  the  poor  are  the  first  to 
meet  attention  at  his  hands. 

About  three  miles  from  Dusseldorf  is 
Diisselthal,  an  old  abbey  converted  into 
an  asylum  for  destitute  children. 


Cologne  is  situated  on  the  left  side  of  the 
1  Rhine,  and  contains  144,751  inhabitants. 
Its  suburb,  Deutz,  with  which  it  is  connect- 
ed by  a  bridge  of  boats,  also  by  an  iron 
'•  bridge,  contains  11,881.      There  is  also  a 
garrison  of  7000  men.     The  entire  popula- 
tion is  therefore  148,132.     Cologne  is  the 
capital  of  the  province,  and  is  the  third  city 
I  of  importance   in  the  Prussian  kingdom. 
It  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  crescent  close 
by  the  water,  and  is  strongly  fortified,  the 
walls  forming  a  circuit  of  nearly  seven 
i  miles.     The  magnificent  iron  bridge,  fin- 
ished in  1859,  is  1397  feet  in  length,  resting 
on  three  piers;   part  of  it  is  used  for  the 
railway,  the  remaining  parts  for  ordinary 
;  traffic.     Above  the  portal  at  the  Cologne 
'•  end  is  the  equestrian  statue  of  the  late  king 
'Frederick  William  IV.,  and  at  the  Deutz 
!  end  another  of  the  present  emperor. 

The  principal  hotel  is  the  Hotel  du  Nord, 
which  is  an  elegant,  first-class  house,  con- 
taining over  300  rooms  and  saloons,  near 
the  Cathedral  and  Rhine  and  Central  sta- 
tions, with  large  garden  and  every  comfort. 
Post,  telegraph,  and  railway  ticket-offices 
in  the  hotel,  and  luggage  checked  to  any 
destination.  Is  under  the  able  manage- 
ment of  the  proprietor,  Mr.  Friedrich, 
who  is  also  purveyor  in  Rhine  wines  to 
the  Emperor  of  Germany  and  other  mem- 
bers of  reigning  families.  An  immense 
garden  -  terrace,  dining  300  people,  and 
an  elegant  English  chapel,  have  been 
added. 


Cologne  is  a  place  oT  great  antiquity, 
and  was  of  considerable  importance  dur- 
ing the  Roman  period.  A  Roman  colony 
was  planted  in  it  by  Agrippina,  daughter 
of  the  Emperor  Germanicus,  who  was  born 


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22  Museum 

24  Fbstanvt, 

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26  SalMaas 


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id-book 


COLOGNE. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


COLOGNE. 


here,  and  from  its  privileges  as  a  Roman 
colony  (Colonia  Agrippina)  the  modern 
name  of  the  city  is  derived.  During  the 
Middle  Ages,  and  for  a  lengthened  period 
of  time,  it  was  one  of  the  most  populous 
and  important  cities  in  Europe.  It  was 
also  one  of  the  chief  cities  of  the  Hauseatic 
League,  and  had  its  principal  depot  at  the 
(iuildhall,  London.  In  1212  it  became  a 
free  town  of  the  empire.  The  archbishops 
continually  tried  to  assert  their  authority 
over  the  citizens ;  but  they  were  always 
thwarted,  and  were  finally  compelled  to  re- 
tire to  Briihl,  and  afterward  to  Bonn.  In 
1370  feuds  between  the  nobles  and  citizens 
occasioned  the  expulsion  of  the  whole  body 
of  weavers,  and  also  of  the  Protestants  in 
liio.x,  who  settled  at  Dusseldorf,  Miilheim, 
( 'refold,  etc.,  to  the  great  injury  of  the  city. 
In  1794  it  lost  its  privileges  as  a  free  city 
by  the  occupation  of  the  French,  having 
become  subject  to  that  nation  by  the  peace 
of  Campo  Formio  in  1787.  In  1802  its 
monasteries  were  seized  and  converted  into 
lay  and  national  property  bv  the  French. 
January  14,  1814,  the  Russians  took  the 
place,  after  which,  and  since,  the  town  has 
remained  Prussian. 


The  chief  glory  of  Cologne  is  its  mag- 
nificent Cathedral,  or  Minster  of  St.  Peter, 
which  is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of 
Gothic  architecture  in  the  world.  It  was 
commenced  in  the  year  1248,  and  finished 
in  1880.  Its  length  is  about  500  feet, 
which  is  to  be  the  height  of  its  two  towers 
when  finished;  its  width  230,  and  height 
of  choir  161.  Behind  the  higli  altar  is 
the  chapel  of  the  Magi,  or  the  three  kings 
«f  Cologne.  The  custodian  will  tell  you 
that  the  silver  case  contains  the  bones  of 
the  three  wise  men  who  came  from  the 
East  to  Bethlehem  to  present  their  presents 
to  the  infant  Christ,  and  that  the  case, 
which  is  ornamented  with  precious  stones, 
and  the  surrounding  valuables  in  the  chap- 
el, are  worth  $2,000,000.  These  remains 
were  presented  to  the  Archbishop  of  Co- 
logne by  the  Emperor  Barbarossa  when  he 
VOL.  II.— C 


captured  the  city  of  Milan,  which  at  that 
time  possessed  these  valuable  relics.  The 
skulls  of  the  Magi,  crowned  with  diamonds, 
with  their  names  written  in  rubies,  are 
shown  to  the  curious  on  payment  of  4 
marks  5  g.  for  a  party ;  on  Sundays  and 
festivals  gratis.  Near  this  chapel,  or 
shrine,  repose  the  remains  of  the  electors 
of  the  house  of  Bavaria,  and  in  front,  be- 
neath a  slab  without  an  inscription,  the 
heart  of  Maria  do'  Medici.  Avoid  obtru- 
sive valets-de-place,  they  are  of  no  use. 
The  nave  and  stained  windows  are  open  all 
the  day.  During  the  hours  of  service,  viz., 
7  to  8,  9  to  10,  3  to  4,  the  church  is  open,  but 
not  shown.  At  other  hours  the  beadle  gives 
tickets  to  one  or  five  persons  for  1^  marks 
to  visit  the  choir  and  outer  galleries.  The 
choir  consists  of  five  aisles,  and  is  beauti- 
ful beyond  description.  Against  the  col- 
umns stand  fourteen  statues  of  the  Saviour, 
Virgin,  and  twelve  apostles,  dating  from 
the  14th  century.  There  are  nine  frescoes 
by  Steinle,  and  tapestry  illustrating  the 
creed  promulgated  at  Nice,  all  of  which 
was  worked  by  ladies  of  Cologne,  and 
merits  close  inspection.  The  stalls  were 
carved  in  the  14th  century.  Among  the 
numerous  relics  in  the  sacristy  is  a  bone 
of  St.  Matthew.  In  the  chapel  of  St. 
Agnes  there  are  some  very  fine  paintings ; 
among  others,  St.  Ursula  and  her  11,000 
virgins. 

The  church  of  St.  Mary  is  remarkable 
for  its  antiquity :  said  to  have  been  built 
on  the  site  of  the  Roman  capitol  by  Plec- 
trudis  in  the  year  700.  Plectrudis  was 
the  wife  of  Pepin,  whom  she  abandoned  on 
account  of  his  attachment  for  Alpais,  the 
mother  of  the  famous  Charles  Martel. 
There  is  an  effigy  of  her  let  into  the  wall 
outside  of  the  choir.  The  church  contains 
several  fine  pictures,  frescoes  in  the  choir, 
and  a  spacious  cn'pt. 

The  church  of  &t.  Peter  will  be  visited 
with  interest,  as  it  contains  not  only  the 
font  in  which  Rubens  was  baptized — he 
was  born  in  Cologne — but  also  one  of  his 
masterpieces,  the  Crucifixion  of  St.  Peter, 
which  Rubens  in  his  letters  to  Gildorp  de- 
scribes as  the  best  picture  he  ever  painted. 
St.  Peter  beingcrucilied  with  his  head  down- 
ward, the  subject  was  considered  most  diffi- 
cult. Rubens  presented  it  to  the  church  in 
which  he  was  baptized  a  short  time  before 
his  death.  It  in  used  as  an  altar-piece.  On 
583 


COLOGNE. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


COLOGNE. 


the  outside  of  the  shutter  is  a  copy ;  the 
original  will  be  shown  for  1^  marks. 

The  church  of  St.  Ursula  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  sights  in  Cologne.  The 
tradition  of  St.  Ursula  is  this  :  She  was 
the  daughter  of  the  King  of  Brittany, 
who  sailed  up  the  Rhine  as  far  us  Basle, 
accompanied  by  11,000  virgins,  to  make 
a  pilgrimage  to  Rome ;  from  Basle  she 
traveled  on  foot,  and  was  received  at  the 
Holy  City  by  the  Pope  with  great  hon- 
ors. On  her  return  the  whole  party  was 
barbarously  murdered  by  the  Huns,  oe- 
cause  they  refused  to  break  their  vows  of 
chastity.  St.  Ursula  was  accompanied  by 
her  lover  Conan  and  an  escort  of  knights. 
St.  Ursula  and  Conan  suffered  death  in  the 
camp  of  the  Emperor  Maximin.  Ursula 
was  placed  in  the  Calendar  as  the  patron 
saint  of  Chastity  ;  and  the  bones  of  all  the 
attendant  virgins  were  gathered  together, 
and  the  present  church  erected  to  contain 
the  sacred  relics.  On  every  side  you  turn, 
skulls,  arm  and  leg  bones  meet  your  eye, 
piled  on  shelves  built  in  the  walls.  In  ev- 
en' direction  these  hideous  relics  stare  you 
in  the  face.  Hood  says  it  is  the  chastest 
kind  of  architecture.  St.  Ursula  herself 
is  exhibited  in  a  coffin  which  is  surrounded 
by  the  skulls  of  a  few  of  her  favorite  at- 
tendants. The  room  in  which  she  is  laid 
contains  numerous  other  relics;  among 
these  are  the  chains  with  which  St.  Peter 
was  bound,  and  one  of  the  clay  vessels  used 
by  the  Saviour  at  the  marriage  in  Cana. 

St.  Gereon,  a  church  dedicated  to  the 
memory  of  408  martyrs  of  the  Theban  le- 
gion, who  with  their  captains,  Gereon  and 
Gregory,  perished  under  the  persecution  of 
Diocletian ;  they  became  patron  saints  of 
Cologne.  A  large  number  of  the  skulls 
are  arranged  around  the  choir.  A  short  dis- 
tance east  of  this  church  is  the  archiepis- 
copal  palace,  in  front  of  which  stands  the 

Mariensiiule,  a  monument  to  the  Virgin, 
erected  in  1858  to  commemorate  the  pro- 
mulgation of  the  doctrine  of  the  Immacu- 
late Conception. 

Apostles'1  Church  is  a  very  fine  structure, 
situated  in  the  Neumarkt,  erected  in  the 
12th  century  when  the  Romanesque  style 
had  attained  its  perfection. 

The  Jesuits'  Church,  erected  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  17th  century.  It  is  rich 
in  decorations,  marbles,  and  sculpture.  It 
contains  the  rosary  of  St.  Ignatius  Loyola 
584 


and  the  crosier  of  St.  Francis  Xavier.  The 
bells  of  the  church  were  cast  from  cannon 
taken  by  Tilly  at  Magdeburg. 

There  are  several  other  churches  well 
worth  a  visit  should  you  make  any  stay, 
viz.,  St.  Pantaleon,  Gross  St.  ^fartin,  etc. 

A  visit  should  be  made  to  No.  10  Ster- 
nengasse.  It  is  not  only  historically  in- 
teresting as  the  house  in  which  Rubens 
was  born  in  1577,  but  where  Maria  de'  Me- 
dici breathed  her  last  in  1(5-12;  her  head 
was  buried  in  the  cathedral,  ;iud  her  body 
conveyed  to  France. 

The  well-known  liquid  which  bears  the 
name  of  the  city  (eau  de  Cologne)  is  an  im- 
portant production  of  the  place,  and  is  ex- 
ported in  very  large  quantities.  John  Maria 
Farina,  opposite  Jiilichsplatz,  manufactures 
the  genuine  Cologne,  to  which  was  awarded 
the  prize-medals  of  the  London  exhibitions 
of  1851  and  1862,  an  honorable  mention  in 
Paris.  1855,  and  prize-medals  in  Paris,  1867, 
and  Vienna,  1873;  established  in  1709.  The 
Julichsplatz  is  but  two  minutes'  walk  from 
the  principal  thoroughfare,  the  Hochstrassa, 
and  the  building  easily  recognized. 

Museum  (Wallraf"-  Richartz).  —  This 
handsome  Gothic  edifice  (with  its  contents) 
owes  its  existence  to  the  munificence  of 
two  citizens  of  Cologne.  The  building  was 
constructed  in  1861  by  M.  Richartz  at  an 
expense  of  $150,000,  and  its  contents  are 
the  legacy  of  M.  Wallraf.  They  consist  of 
objects  of  Roman  antiquities,  pictures  of 
the  old  school  of  Cologne,  some  400  in  num- 
ber, consisting  of  specimens  of  Rubens,  Hol- 
bein, Cranach,  Dilrer,  and  Van  Dyck. 

One  of  the  wings  is  devoted  to  modern 
paintings. 

The  exterior  is  decorated  with  statues 
of  noted  citizens,  and  the  staircase  with 
frescoes  by  Steinle.  On  the  ground  floor 
there  are  three  rooms  devoted  to  an  expo- 
sition of  pictures  by  Cologne  artists. 

In  the  Museumplatz,  No.  16  Richartz- 
strasse.  first  story,  is  a  branch  of  Mr. 
Schulte's  celebrated  picture  collection,  filled 
with  works  by  the  best  Diisseldorf  artists. 

The  Rathhaus,  or  Town-hall,  fronts  on 
the  Altenmarkt.  It  dates  from  the  thir- 
teenth century,  and  was  rebuilt  in  1549. 
The  Hansa-Saal.  which  at  one  time  held 
the  meetings  of  citizens  who  controlled  the 
commerce  of  the  world,  dates  from  the 
fourteenth  century.  It  has  recently  been 
restored. 


COLOGNE. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.]          AIX-I.A-CHAPELLE. 


To  the  south  of  the  Rathhaus  is  situated 
the  Gurzenich,  so  called  from  the  name  of 
the  person  who  gave  the  ground  ;  it  is  the 
most  imposing  of  the  ancient  monuments  of 
Cologne.  It  was  commenced  in  1441,  and 
finished  in  1474 ;  it  was  restored  in  Itf59. 
Several  Diets  of  the  empire  were  held  here, 
and  numerous  German  emperors  here  en- 
tertained the  magnates  of  the  city.  The 
large  balls,  concerts,  and  other  entertain- 
ments are  given  here.  Over  the  eastern 
door  are  the  statues  of  Agrippa  and  Mursi- 
lius,  the  founders  and  defenders  of  the  city 
in  the  time  of  the  Romans. 

The  Casino  is  a  handsome  building  with 
ball  and  reading  room. 

The  Chamber  of  Commerce  and  Exchange 
is  situated  in  a  house  belonging  to  tin- 
Templars,  which  dates  from  the  twelfth 
century.  It  was  enlarged  and  repaired  in 
1840. 

The  Zoological  and  Botanical  Gardens 
are  situated  a  short  distance  down  the 
river,  and  are  much  resorted  to  by  the  cit- 
izens. The  wild  animals  are  very  line,  and 
equaled  by  few  in  Europe.  There  is  also 
an  Aquarium.  Small  steamers  run  down 
for  '20  pfennigs.  Entrance  to  each,  one 
murk.  On  Sundays  to  the  Zoological  Gar- 
dens -J  mark,  and  on  days  when  there  are 
concerts  14  mark. 

The  theatres  are  the  Sturttlheater,  in  the 
Clock  en  gasse,  and  the  Thalia-Theater. 


Tlio  old  fortifications  of  Cologne  have 
been  torn  down,  and  new  lines  constructed 
fallowing  an  enlargement  of  the  city),  with 
detached  and  outlying  forts.  In  the  in- 
undation that  visited  the  l!lii'iii-li  prov- 
inces and  the  Palatinate  at  the  beginning 
of  1883,  one  of  the  forts  (of  Rodenkirc/ten) 
was  destroyed  l>y  the  floods. 


Carriages  (droschke). — In  the  city,  one 
or  two  persons,  \  mark ;  four  persons,  1 
mark.  To  Deutz,  idem,  with  75  pf.  toll. 

Steamers  to  Mainz  in  12  hours,  and  back 
in  8;  fare,  7  marks  40  pf.  Also  to  Bonn, 
Coblentz,  Mannheim,  etc. 

Cologne  to  Frankfort,  5  h.  30  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  18  m.  30  pf. ;  second  class,  13m. 
20  pf. ; — to  Bonn,  40  minutes;  fare,  2  m. 
50  pf. ;—  to  Coblentz,  1  h.  53  m. ;  fare,  7  m. 
30  pf. ;— to  Mainz,  3  h.  51  m. ;  fare,  first 
class,  14  m.  90  pf. ;  second  class,  10  m.  90 
pf.;— to  Aix-la-Chapelle  (Aachen),  1  h.  22 
m. :  fare,  first  class,  7  m.  50  pf. ;  second 
class,  4  m.  50  pf. ; — to  Berlin,  10  h.  15  m., 
noon ;  fare,  first  class,  53  m.  30  pf. ;  second 
class,  39  m.  60  pf. ;— to  Paris,  at  10.30  P.M., 
in  11  h.  15  m.,  and  at  8.30  A.M.  in  11  h.  10 
m. ;  fare,  47  m.  80  pf. ;  sleeping-car,  Route 
145. 

Continuing  Route  145  from  Cologne  to 
Paris,  after  passing  through  a  tunnel  of 
1625  yards  in  length,  which  occupies  three 
minutes  in  traversing,  the  junction  Diiren 
is  reached.  This  town,  the  Marcodurum 
of  Tacitus,  contains  8000  inhabitants,  prin- 
cipally devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  pa- 
per and  cloth.  It  was  captured  by  Charles 
V.  in  1543.  In  the  church  of  St.  Anne 
there  is  a  strong  box  which  incloses  the 
head  of  that  saint. 

A  railway  to  the  left  leads  to  the  Eifel 
and  Treves.  Another  to  the  right  leads  to 
\euss,  in  1  hour  15  minutes,  passing  Bed- 
linrrj.  where  there  is  a  college  for  the  sons 
of  the  Rhenish  nobility. 

Aix-la-Chapelle  is  a  city  of  85,432  inhab- 
itants. Its  hotels  are  first  class,  and  admi- 
rably managed.  They  are  the  Grand  Mo- 
narque,  Xuellen'g,  Ktii.«  rbnd,  and  Xtubad. 
The  season  lasts  all  the  year.  The  proprie- 
tors. Messrs.  Dremel,  are  large  wine-dealers. 

Aix-la-Chapelle  was  known  to  the  Ro- 
mans as  Aquis  Granum ;  its  warm  springs 
being  the  strongest  inducement  to  make 
them  settle  there.  Charlemagne,  however, 
raised  the  city  to  its  groat  eminence :  it 
was  not  only  his  birthplace,  but  also  the 
scene  of  his  death,  which  event  took  place 
in  814.  It  became  the  second  city  of  his 
great  empire,  and  its  capital  north  of  the 
j  Alps,  and  thirty-seven  of  his  successors  were 
585 


AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.          [THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.]         AIX-LA-CHAPBLLE. 


crowned  here  between  the  date  of  his  death 
and  1531.  In  the  Middle  Ages  it  was  a  great 
free  imperial  city,  and  the  scene  of  many 
Diets  of  the  empire.  It  is  also  noted  for  the 
numerous  congresses  held  within  its  walls. 
Since  the  days  of  the  Romans  it  has  been 
known  as  a  watering-place,  and  is  annual- 
ly frequented  by  hundreds  ibr  the  cure  of 
chronic  cutaneous  diseases,  gout,  rheuma- 
tism, and  ulcerous  affections.  The  Kaiser- 
bad  Spring  contains  a  larger  quantity  of 
sulphur  than  any  other  in  Europe. 

Aix-la-Chapelle  was  named  after  "  the 
chapel "  erected  \>y  Charlemagne.  It  stood 
on  the  site  of  the  present  cathedral  or  min- 
ster, and  was  intended  as  a  place  of  burial 
for  himself  and  descendants.  It  was  con- 
secrated by  Pope  Leo  III.,  assisted  by  365 
bishops  and  archbishops.  The  church  was 
destroyed  by  the  Normans  in  the  10th  cen- 
tury. The  present  edifice,  however,  is  one 
of  the  oldest  in  Europe,  and  is  unequaled 
in  the  number  and  value  of  the  relics  it 
contains,  some  of  which  are  only  shown 
once  in  seven  years,  when  hundreds  of 
thousands  make  pilgrimages  to  see  them. 
They  were  presented  to  Charlemagne  by 
the  Grand  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem.  They 
consist  of  the  swaddling-clothes  in  which 
the  Saviour  was  wrapped,  the  scarf  he  wore 
at  the  Crucifixion,  spotted  with  blood,  a 
cotton  robe  worn  by  the  Virgin  at  the  Na- 
tivity, and  the  cloth  on  which  the  head  of 
John  the  Baptist  was  laid.  These,  with 
numerous  presents  of  great  value  present- 
ed by  different  German  emperors,  are  de- 
posited in  a  silver  vase  of  great  cost,  and. 
as  we  before  remarked,  are  shown  only 
every  seventh  year ;  1881  was  the  last 
time. 

There  are  also  numerous  other  relics, 
considered  not  as  of  much  importance,  but 
guarded  with  jealous  care.  It  requires  a 
fee  of  one  mark,  and  one  and  a  half  mark 
for  a  party,  to  make  the  guardian  expose 
them,  the  principal  of  which  are  a  locket 
of  the  Virgin's  hair,  and  a  piece  of  the 
true  cross,  both  of  which  Charlemagne  wore 
round  his  neck  when  he  died  and  while  in 
the  grave ;  the  leathern  girdle  of  Christ ; 
the  bones  of  St.  Stephen ;  the  cord  which 
bound  the  rod  which  smote  the  Saviour ;  a 
piece  of  Aaron's  rod,  and  the  arm-bone  of 
the  Emperor  Charlemagne.  All  the  em- 
perors and  empresses  of  Germany  for  over 
700  vears  have  sworn  on  these  relics  at 
586 


j  their  coronation.  Under  the  centre  of  the 
dome  is  a  slab  of  marble,  on  which  is  in- 
scribed '•  C'irlomrtfjno,"  pointing  out  the 
position  of  his  tomb.  A  full  mass  is  chant- 
ed in  the  cathedral  every  Sunday  at  10 
o'clock  A.M. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville  is  an  imposing  build- 
ing of  the  14th  century,  standing  on  the 
site  of  the  palace  where  Charlemagne  was 
born.  It  contains  an  ancient  hall,  beauti- 
fully restored,  with  frescoes  by  Rethtl  and 
Kekren,  and  statuettes  of  thirty-six  German 
emperors.  It  is  particularly  celebrated 
for  the  congresses  held  there — that  of  1748, 

j  when  a  general  peace  was  signed  by  all 

|  the  crowned  heads  of  Europe,  and  that  of 
1818,  when  the  Emperors  of  Russia  and 
Austria,  and  the  King  of  Prussia,  in  addi- 
tion to  deputies  from  Louis  XVIII.  and 
George  IV.,  here  assembled.  The  left  tower 
was  completely  destroyed  in  the  great  fire 

jof  1883,  when  35  other  houses  were  burned 
down.  The  magnificent  Kaisersaal  barely 
escaped  ruin.  In  the  centre  of  the  market- 
place stands  a  fine  bronze  equestrian  figure 
of  Charlemagne. 

At  the  fountain  of  Elisa  there  is  a  cafe, 
drinking -room,  and  restaurant.  A  band 
plays  from  7  to  8  o'clock  A.M.,  from  12  to 
1,  and  also  in  the  evening.  The  Kurhaus, 
at  which  place  weekly  balls  are  given,  is 
a  fine  suite  of  rooms.  For  the  accommo- 
dation of  visitors,  there  is  a  reading-room 
supplied  with  reviews  and  all  the  maga- 
zines and  foreign  newspapers,  for  the  use 
of  which  visitors  remaining  any  length  of 
time  pay  a  small  monthly  subscription  fee. 
The  manufactures  of  Aix  are  very  ex- 
tensive, in  proportion  to  the  population  of 
the  town,  chief  among  which  is  the  manu- 
facture of  cloth,  steam-engines  and  spin- 
ning machinery,  looking-glasses,  and  em- 
broidery. There  is  an  agency  of  the  cele- 
brated Saxon  china  established  here,  where 
that  beautiful  porcelain  may  bo  bought  at 
the  same  price  as  in  Dresden. 

Near  Maestricht,  Polytechnic  School,  a 
handsome  building  in  the  Renaissance  style. 

Borcette,  a  small  town  three  miles  dis- 
tant, is  more  retired,  for  persons  taking  the 
waters.  Hotels :  St.  Charles  and  Rosenbad. 

In  front  of  the  Rhenish  Railway  Station 
a  monument  has  been  erected  in  bronze,  by 
Drake,to  the  citizensof  Aix-la-Chapelle  who 
died  during  the  wars  of  1866  and  1870-71. 


BRANDENBURG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MAGDEBCRO. 


An  excursion  should  be  made  to  Lous- 
berg,  about  forty  minutes  from  Aix.  Its 
promenades  are  very  pretty  and  much  fre- 
quented, whence  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
surrounding  country  is  obtained. 

The  Liftlvrtufrl  concerts,  which  take 
place  every  Saturday,  are  well  worth  a 
visit,  anil  admittance  can  be  easily  gained 
by  applying  to  your  hotel  proprietor. 

From  Ais-ln-Ch'ipelle  to  Puris.  Time, 
10  h.  18  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  38  marks  20 
pf.  Sleeping-car  to  Paris,  see  beginning 
of  the  route.  To  Cologne,  1  h.  24  m. ; 
fare,  7  marks  50  pf. 

For  description  of  route  from  Aix-la- 
Chapelle  to  Paris,  see  Route  132,  Vol.  I. 


ROUTE  No.  146. 

Berlin  to  Cologne,  via  Potsdam,  Branden- 
burg, Magdeburg  (and  Brunswick'),  Elber- 
feld,  and  Deutz.  Time,  10  h.  24  m. ;  fare, 
first-class,  53  marks  30  pf. ;  second  class, 
39  marks  60  pf. 

[This  is  a  route  seldom  made  by  travel- 
ers, unless  they  have  some  particular  ob- 
ject in  passing  through  these  places.  Many 
take  the  route  as  far  as  Magdeburg,  then 
branch  off  through  Brunswick,  joining  the 
mail  route  via  Stendal,  and  pass  through 
Hanover,  Minden,  etc.  This  last  was  for- 
merly the  mail  route  before  the  one  via 
Stendal  was  opened.] 

Potfdam,  described  in  excursions  from 
Berlin  (see  Index). 

Brandenburg,  an  interesting  town  of 
25,500  inhabitants,  is  situated  on  the  Ha- 
vel, which  widens  out  here  into  the  Lake, 
of  Plauen.  Hotels,  Schwarzer  Bar  and 
Schwarzer  Adlir.  The  town  occupies  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Brenabor,  captured  in 
1153  by  Albert  the  Bear,  count  of  Anhalt, 
the  same  who  founded  Berlin,  and  took  the 
titlo  of  Margrave  of  Brandenburg. 

The  Cathedral  is  situated  on  a  small  isl- 
and, which  forms  one  of  the  quarters  of  the 
town.  A  portion  of  it  dates  back  to  the 
twelfth  century,  and  is  in  the  Romanesque 
style.  It  was  restored  by  Schinkel  in 
1836.  The  high  altar  is  of  carved  wood, 
and  represents  the  Coronation  of  the  Vir- 


gin. In  one  of  the  chambers  attached  to 
the  church  are  some  relics  held  in  high 
repute.  Among  others  the  pocket  of  Da- 
vid's sling ;  Goliath's  staff;  studs  from  the 
bedstead  of  the  Virgin ;  the  manger  out 
of  which  St.  Joseph's  ass  fed. 

The  Church  of  St.  Catharine  is  a  very 
handsome  Gothic  church,  constructed  of 
brick,  and  dating  from  the  14th  century. 
It  possesses  several  fine  monuments  and  a 
magnificent  altar  in  sculptured  wood. 

In  front  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville.  a  fine 
Gothic  structure,  there  Is  a  Roland  column, 
eighteen  feet  high.  To  the  northeast  of 
the  town  there  is  a  hill,  called  the  Marien- 
berg,  from  which  there  is  a  fine  view. 

Passing  Burg,  a  town  of  15,000  inhab- 
itants, all  of  whom  are  principally  employ- 
ed in  the  manufacture  of  cloth.  The  town 
was  founded  by  French  refugees  driven 
out  of  Franca  by  the  revocation  of  the 
Edict  of  Nantes. 

Magdeburg,  the  capital  of  the  province 
of  Saxon y,  is  one  of  the  strongest  fortresses 
in  Europe.  It  contains  84,452  inhabitants. 
Hotels,  Weisser  Sckwan,  London  f/otel,  and 
Stadt  Braunschweig.  Its  citadel  is  built  on 
an  island  in  the  Elbe,  which  runs  through 
the  town.  Magdeburg  is  noted  for  its 
manufactures  of  cottons,  woolens,  gloves, 
lace,  porcelain,  and  tobacco.  It  has  an 
active  trade,  which  is  facilitated  by  steam 
packets  on  the  Elbe.  The  town  is  very 
ancient,  having  been  in  existence  since 
the  bth  century.  It  suffered  much  during 
the  religious  wars  of  the  16th  and  17th  cen- 
turies, but  most  of  all  when  it  was  sacked 
by  Tilly.  It  resisted  the  Austrian  army 
under  Wallenstein  for  seven  months.  It 
was  besieged  and  taken  by  the  French  in 
1806,  and  also  in  1813. 

The  principal  and  perhaps  the  only  build- 
ing worthy  of  note  is  the  Domkirche,  or 
Cathedral,  and  that  is  truly  splendid.  The 
interior  is  magnificent,  and  contains  many 
interesting  and  highly  finished  sculptured 
monuments.  It  was  badly  used  by  the 
French,  who  turned  it  into  a  stable  ;  it  has 
however,  been  lately  restored  by  the  Prus- 
sian government  at  an  enormous  expense. 
The  principal  monuments  are,  that  of  Arch- 
bishop Ernest :  it  is  in  bronze,  and  sur- 
rounded by  figures  of  the  twelve  apostles ; 
the  tombs  of  the  Emperor  Otho,  and  of 
his  queen,  Editha ;  a  monument  of  Bake,  a 
canon  of  the  church,  who  saved  it  from  de- 
587 


MAGDEBURG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BRUNSWICK. 


struction  by  interceding  with  Tilly,  whose 
schoolfellow  he  was.  There  is  also  the 
monument  of  the  woman  of  Asseburg  who 
was  buried  alive,  made  her  escape,  return- 
ed to  her  husband  the  night  after  her  bur- 
ial, had  several  children,  and  lived  nine 
years  after.  Tilly's  sword  and  helmet  are 
shown  here.  In  the  old  market,  opposite 
the  Rathhaus,  stand  the  equestrian  statues 
of  the  Emperor  Otho  and  his  two  queens: 
it  was  erected  in  979.  The  French  gen- 
eral Carnot  is  buried  here :  he  was  Minis- 
ter of  War  when  Napoleon  was  First  Con- 
sul, and  during  the  hundred  days  was  Min- 
ister of  the  Interior ;  he  was  banished  from 
France  at  the  Restoration,  and  died  at  Mag- 
deburg in  1821.  The  most  animated  por- 
tion of  the  city  is  the  Breite  Weg,  a  prin- 
cipal street  which  traverses  the  town  from 
north  to  south.  Here  the  Exchange  is  sit- 
uated. It  was  restored  in  1873.  No.  146  of 
the  same  street  bears  the  inscription  :  "  Ge- 
denke  des  lOten  Mai,  1631."  It  was  here, 
it  is  said,  the  traitor  lived  who  betrayed 
the  town  to  Tilly. 

The  citadel  is  very  strong,  and  serves  as 
a  state  prison  ;  Lafayette  and  Carnot  were 
both  confined  in  it,  as  also  Baron  von 
Trenck,  who  was  guillotined  in  Paris  in 
1794.  He  was  confined  by  Frederick  the 
Great,  because  he  was  in  love  with  that 
monarch's  sister,  the  Princess  Amelia. 

On  the  east  of  the  Domplatz  are  situated 
the  Schloss  and  government  offices ;  near 
which  stands  the  Marienkirche,  connected 
•with  some  old  abbey  buildings  now  used 
for  educational  purposes. 

In  front  of  the  Hotel  de  Vllle  stands  an 
equestrian  statue  of  Olho  the  Great,  which 
dates  from  the  13th  century ;  it  was  re- 
stored in  1858.  Near  to  this  is  a  statue  to 
Francke,  the  burgomaster,  erected  in  185G. 

The  Furstenwall,  a  terrace  named  from 
Prince  Leopold  of  Dessau,  is  the  most  fre- 
quented promenade  in  the  interior  of  the 
city.  Farther  on  is  the  new  quarter  of  the 
town,  recently  built  with  handsome  houses ; 
beyond  which  is  the  Frederick  William 
Garden,  which  occupies  the  place  of  the 
Convent  of  Bergen,  so  celebrated  in  former 
years.  It  is  finely  laid  out,  and  commands 
some  exquisite  views. 

Luther  went  to  school  at  Magdeburg, 

and  he  himself  records  the  fact  that  he 

used  to  sing  in  the  public  streets  in  front 

•*f-  rich  men's  houses  to  acquire  the  means 

588 


of  supporting  himself  and  prosecuting  his 
studies. 

To  the  south  of  the  public  garden  is  the 
small  industrial  town  of  Buckau. 

Steamers  run  down  the  Elbe  several 
times  a  week  to  Hamburg  and  Harburg. 

.\fatfdeburg  to  Paris.  Time,  19  h.  32  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  108  frs. ;  (Mixte).  second 
class  in  Germany,  first  class  in  France, 
91  frs.  G5  c. 

Magdeburg  to  firemen.  Time.  5  h.  37  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  21  marks  8  g. ;  second 
class,  16  marks  1  g. 

Magdeburg  to  Hanover.  Time,  4  h. ; 
fare,  first  class,  12  marks ;  second  class,  8 
marks  8  g. 

Magdeburg  to  Brunswick.  Time,  2  h. 
10  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  7  marks  ;  second 
class,  5  marks. 

Magdeburg  to  Leipzig.  Time  2  h. 
30  m.  (express) ;  fare,  first  class,  9  marks 
6g. 

Magdeburg  to  Berlin.  Time,  2  h.  37  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  12  marks ;  second  class, 
9  marks. 


[Brunswick  is  out  of  the  route  to  Krei- 
ensen,  but  on  the  way  to  Hanover — time, 
1  h.  12  m. — and  was  formerly  on  the  high- 
road between  Berlin  and  Paris ;  since  de- 
serted as  a  mail  route. 


DUCHY  OF  BRUNSWICK. 
The  duchy  of  Brunswick  embraces  three 
detached  portions  of  moderate  size,  in- 
closed between  the  province  of  Hanover 
and  other  Prussian  dominions,  together 
with  several  pieces  of  much  smaller  extent. 
The  inhabitants  of  this  duchy  are  mostly 
descended  from  a  branch  of  the  ancient 
Saxons,  and  the  Low-German  language  is 
universal  among  the  villagers,  except  on 
the  Harz  Mountains,  where  the  mining 
population  speak  High-German.  Personal 
courage  and  open-heartedness  are  the  lead- 
ing characteristics  of  the  Brunswickers. 
They  are  allowed  to  be  the  best  situated, 
in  point  of  comfort  and  village  economy, 
of  all  the  Germans,  and  the  aspect  of  the 
whole  country  is  indicative  of  good  order 
and  prosperity.  It  is  one  of  the  best-gov- 
erned states  in  Europe.  The  public  debt 
amounts  to  $16,350,000. 


BRUNSWICK. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.: 


BRUNSWH  K. 


The  present   Duke   of  Brunswick  is  a  I 
lineal  descendant  of  Henry  the  Lion,  the  , 
:   the  house    of  Welf,  who  held  the  , 
united  duchies  of  Bavaria  and  Saxony  ;  his 
elder    brother,  formerly  Duke   of    Bruns- 
wick, died  at  Geneva  in  1^74,  leaving  thtit 
city  his  whole  private  fortune.      In  their 
rivalry  with  the  Suabian  house  of  Hohen- 
staufen,  in  the  12th  century,  the  party  of 
the  powerful  Welfs  was  stronger  in  Italy 
than  in  Germany,  and  the  jealousy  enter-  ' 
tained  of  their  power  in  the  former  coun-  ' 
try  caused  all  the  princes  of  the  empire  to 
unite  with  the  Emperor  Frederick  Barba- ; 
rossa  in  humbling  them.     Henry  the  Lion,  \ 
having  refused  to  aid  that  emperor  in  his 
wars  with  the  free  Italian  cities  and  the 
pope,  was  deprived.  by  a   decree  of  the 
Diet  in  1180,  of  both  his  duchies,  and  only 
left  the  possession  of  his  allodial  domain 
of  Brunswick  and  Luneburg  (or  Hanover), 
which  were  subsequently  split  into  numer- 
ous branches,  but  merged  finally  into  the 
still  reigning  linos  of  Hanover  and  Bruns- 
wick, which  is  the  elder  branch.     As  such 
the   crown    of  England   would   have   de- 
volved to  this  line,  which  claims  descent 
from  the  daughter  of  Henry  II.,  on  the  ex- 
tinction of  the  house  of  Stuart,  had  not  the 
Duke  of  Luneburg,  afterward  George  I., 
by  marrying  the  daughter  of  Elizabeth. 
Countess  Palatine,  the  daughter  of  James 
I.  of  England,  procured  a  prior  claim  to 
the  younger  line. 

Treaties  of  mutual  inheritance  existed 
between  the  houses  of  Hanover  and  Bruns- 
wick, and  the  succession  only  passes  to  the 
female  side  when  legitimate  male  heirs 
fail.  The  intimate  family  connection  which 
in  the  last  century  subsisted  between  the 
house  of  Brunswick  and  the  reigning  fam- 
ilies of  Great  Britain  and  Prussia  engaged 
the  princes  of  Brunswick  in  political  alli- 
ances with  these  two  powers,  in  opposition 
to  France  and  occasionally  to  Austria.  The 
Prussian  army,  at  the  outset  of  the  disas-  : 
trous  campaign  of  1806,  was  commanded 
by  the  duke  Charles  William  Ferdinand 
of  Brunswick,  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Jena. 
Although  he  h;ul  declared  his  duchy  neu- 
tral, and  no  Brunswick  troops  were  with 
the  Prussian  army,  yet  his  lands  were 
immediately  seized  by  the  conqueror,  and 
incorporated  with  the  kingdom  of  We~t- 
phalia.  His  youngest  son,  Frederick  Will- 
iam,  after  the  death  of  his  eldest,  and  the 


abdication  of  his  second  brother,  the  sole 
remaining  heir,  served  some  time  in  the 
Prussian,  and  afterward  in  the  Austrian 
army.  In  1809  this  adventurous  prince 
raised  a  small  corps,  and  attempted,  in  co- 
operation with  the  grand  Austrian  army, 
to  excite  a  diversion  in  the  north  of  Ger- 
many ;  but,  finding  his  cause  ruined  by  the 
victory  of  the  French  at  Wagram,  he  cross- 
ed the  whole  of  Germany  at  the  head  of  a 
small  body  not  exceeding  2000  men,  and 
marched  from  the  Bohemian  frontier  to 
the  sea-coast  near  Bremen.  Alternately 
eluding  and  fighting  the  various  French 
corps  which  crossed  his  passage,  with  equal 
good  fortune  and  bravery  he  succeeded  in 
embarking  for  England,  where  his  troops 
joined  the  British  army,  with  permission 
to  retain  the  black  uniform  which  their 
bravery  had  rendered  celebrated,  and 
served  until  1814  in  the  Peninsula.  Hav- 
ing regained  his  dominions  under  the  stip- 
ulations of  the  Treaty  of  Vienna,  Freder- 
iek  William  fell  at  the  head  of  his  troops 
while  maintaining  his  position  at  Quatre 
Bras,  two  days  before  the  battle  of  Water- 
loo. 

Brunswick,  capital  of  the  duchy,  con- 
tains 75,038  inhabitants.  Hotels,  Braun- 
schweig Hotel,  Deutsches  Ifaus.  II.  <k  Prusse, 
and  H.  d'Angleterre.  Henry  the  Lion 
made  this  city  his  residence  in  the  12th 
century,  fortifying  and  adorning  it.  From 
this  prince  the  present  royal  family  of 
England  are  descended.  The  principal 
objects  of  curiosity  to  be  seen  are  the  new 
palace  or  ftesitJenzschloss :  it  is  erected  on 
the  site  of  the  Grave  I/of,  which  was  burned 
by  the  mob  in  1839,  and  again  burned  in 
1865.  The  principal  facade  is  400  feet 
long,  beautifully  decorated.  The  beautiful 
entrance  is  crowned  by  a  celebrated  Qua- 
driga, or  car,  drawn  by  four  horses  as  rep- 
resented on  ancient  medals :  the  work  is 
in  copper,  by  Riftschel.  There  are  two 
colossal  statues  on  the  summit  of  the  edi- 
fice, representing  Henry  the  Lion  and  Otho 
the  Enfant,  by  Blaser.  The  interior,  which 
is  very  beautiful,  is  well  worth  a  visit; 
inquire  of  the  intendant  at  the  entrance. 
The  Cathedral  of  St.  Blaize  was  finished 
by  Henry  the  Lion:  it  is  an  interesting 
solid  structure  in  the  Byzantine  Gothic 
style.  It  contains  the  monuments  of 
Henry  the  Lion  and  his  wife.  Matilda  (sis- 
ter of  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion).  In  the 
589 


BRUNSWICK. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BRUNSWICK. 


vaults  beneath  the  church  lie  the  coffins  of 
Duke  Charles  William  Ferdinand,  who  fell 
at  the  battle  of  Jena,  and  his  son,  Duke 
Frederick  William,  who  fell  at  Quatre 
Bras,  nobly  avenging  his  father's  death. 
Small  black  flags  (the  color  of  his  uni- 
form), presented,  the  one  by  the  matrons, 
the  other  by  the  maidens  of  Brunswick, 
hang  above  Duke  Frederick's  coffin.  Close 
to  these  lies  the  coffin  of  Caroline  of  Bruns- 
wick, the  unfortunate  queen  of  George  IV., 
ling  of  England.  The  church  contains 
numerous  relics  brought  from  the  East  by 
Henry  the  Lion :  his  own  statue,  the  high- 
priest's  servant's  ear,  the  bone  of  a  whale, 
which  was  formerly  passed  off  as  one  of 
Goliath's  ribs,  and  various  other  articles. 
Near  the  cathedral  stands  a  large  bronze 
lion,  said  to  have  been  cast  in  Constanti- 
nople, and  brought  from  there  by  Henry 
the  Lion,  who  placed  it  upon  a  pedestal  in 
front  of  his  palace,  on  the  site  of  which  a 
barrack  now  stands. 

The  Museum,  also  near  the  cathedral, 
contains  numerous  gems  of  painting  and 
sculpture.  Among  the  former  there  is  a 
portrait  by  Raphael,  an  Adam  and  Eve  by 
Giorgione,  portraits  by  Rembrandt  and  Al- 
bert Diirer,  a  Marriage  Contract  and  a 
Musical  Party  by  Steens,  a  Crucifixion  by 
Benvenuto  Cellini.  Among  the  leading 
antiquities  there  is  a  stone  carving  of  St. 
John  Preaching  in  the  Wilderness,  by  Al- 
bert Diirer;  Kosciusko's  cup,  carved  in 
prison  ;  Luther's  ring,  the  sword  of  Duke 
Frederick  William,  and  the  uniform  of  Fred- 
erick the  Great.  The  Museum  is  open 
daily,  excepting  on  holidays,  from  25th 
April  until  19th  October,  from  10  to  1.30  ; 
Sundays,  11  to  1 ;  and  Wednesdays  and 
Saturdays,  3  to  5.  The  church  of  "St.  An- 
drews— with  its  steeples,  one  of  which  is 
320  feet  high — containing  a  bronze  font ; 
and  that  of  St.  Catharine,  with  paintings 
by  Diebrich,  and  stained-glass  windows 
from  designs  by  Cranach  and  Diirer;  as 
well  as  the  church  of  St.  Martin,  in  the 
pointed  Gothic  style,  are  interesting  to 
lovers  of  the  fine  arts. 

Brunswick  contains  numerous  manufac- 
tories of  linen  and  woolen  stuff,  hardware. 
He.,  with  many  excellent  schools  and  char- 
itable institutions.  The  city  has  a  very 
quaint  appearance,  with  innumerable  ga- 
bles, high-pitched  roofs,  and  overhanging 
stories,  one  above  the  other,  the  tops  of  the 
590 


houses  on  opposite  sides  of  the  narrow  streets 
often  making  close  approach  to  one  anoth- 
er. The  city  is  surrounded  with  pretty 
walks,  which  occupy  the  site  of  the  former 
ramparts  ;  here  the  citizens  have  erected  a 
cast-iron  obelisk  to  the  memory  of  the  two 
dukes  whs  fell  at  Jena  and  Quatre  Bras : 
it  is  60  feet  high.  About  a  mile  from  the 
city  is  the  monument  erected  to  the  mem- 
ory of  the  patriot  Schill,  who  was  shot  by 
the  French.  He  was  at  the  head  of  the 
rising  against  the  French  in  1808,  was  un- 
successful, captured,  and  shot,  with  many 
of  his  companions  in  arms.  The  body- 
guard of  the  present  duke  wear  the  same 
uniform  that  distinguished  the  Duke  Fred- 
erick William — jet  black,  with  death's  head 
and  cross-bones.  Lessing,  the  celebrated 
German  author,  is  buried  in  the  Muyni 
Kirchhnf;  there  is  also  a  statue  erected  to 
his  memory  in  Lessingplatz ;  he  was  a  Ion  ; 
time  librarian  to  the  Duke  of  Brunswick. 
The  space  between  the  t;ates  Steinthor 
and  Fallerslebentlior  is  now  occupied  by 
the  ducal  park.  At  the  terminus  of  Stein- 
wegstrasse  a  handsome  theatre  was  erected 
in  1861,  to  commemorate  the  1000th  anni- 
versary of  the  foundation  of  the  city. 

Outside  the  gate,  on  a  road  leading  to 
the  exercising-ground,  a  column  has  been 
erected  to  the  memory  of  Olfentan,  who 
commanded  the  Brunswick  troops  at  the 
battle  of  Waterloo. 

Not  far  from  the  city,  on  the  Zinkenberg 
hill,  stands  the  pleasant  chateau  called  the 
Richmond,  built  for  the  duke  in  1768  ;  also 
the  villa  Williamscastle,  built  in  the  Gothic- 
Norman  style,  and  surrounded  by  beauti- 
ful gardens. 

From  Brunswick  to  Paris.  Time,  19  h. 
10  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  81  marks  20  pf. ; 
second  (with  first  from  Cologne),  74  marks. 

Brunswick  to  Magdeburg.  Time,  1  h. 
40  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  8  marks  70  pf. ; 
second  class,  5  marks  80  pf. 

Brunswick  to  Hanover.  Time,  1  h.  12  m. : 
fare,  first  class,  5  marks  70  pf. ;  second 
class.  -1  marks  20  pf. 

Bnmstrick  to  Leipzig.  Time,  4  h.  20  m. , 
fare,  first  class,  20  marks  70  pf. 

Brunswick  to  Berlin.  Time,  5  h. ;  fare, 
first  class,  19  marks  20  pf. ;  second  class, 
15^  marks. 

Excursions  can  be  made  from  Bruns- 
wick to  the  Harz  Mountains,  also  to  Hal- 
berstadt  and  Oschersleben.  From  Halber- 


HARZ  MOI-NTAINS.  [THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.]  OSTERODE. 

stadt  there  are  branch  railways  to  Blanken-  'of  the  empire,  the  birthplace  of  the  Em- 
bury, Quedlinbiirg,  Thale,  and  Ballenstedt,  peror  Henry  IV.,  and  for  many  j-ears  an 
all  penetrating  into  the  Harz;  also  to  Gos-  imperial  residence. 

lar,  the  nearest  point  from  Brunswick.  If  Here  are  still  to  be  seen  many  interest- 
on  the  Gottingcn  side  of  the  mountains,  a  ing  specimens  and  relics  of  mediaeval  ar- 
day  might  be  spent  in  making  an  exciir-  chitecture ;  among  which  the  Imperial 
sion  to  Goslar ;  another  from  Goslar  to  Palace  (Kuiserpfalz),  built  in  the  course  of 
Brocken,  the  third  from  Brocken  to  Blank-  the  llth  century ;  the  Domkapdlc.  or  ca- 
enburg,  thence  to  the  Rosstrappe  and  thcdral  chapel,  being  the  remnant  of  the 
Alexisbad.  Eight  or  nine  days,  however,  celebrated  cathedral  built  during  the  lat- 
may  well  be  spent  in  making  a  thorough  ter  part  of  the  llth  century,  and  pulled 
tour  of  the  mountains.  One  day  in  visit-  down  some  fifty  years  ago.  A  few  objects 
ing  the  valley  Selke  and  Alexisbad;  second  of  art,  having  belonged  to  the  church,  are 
day.  Gernrode,  Suderode,  and  Hexentanz-  still  shown  inside;  a  small  fee  is  expected. 
platz  ;  third,  Ifirsch,  the  valky  of  the  Bode.  The  Town-hall, where  the  Btisskalze  is  to  be 
and  Rosslrappf;  fourth,  Blankenburg,  Rube-  seen, that  is,  the  Biting  Cat,  in  which  shrews 
land,  and  Wernigerode ;  fifth,  the  Steinerne  used  to  be  confined  ;  a  huge  tower  called 
]!< nnt,  and  Brocken ;  sixth,  Ilsenberg  and  j  the  Zicinger,  by  the  Breitenthor,  or  Broad- 
Burgberg;  seventh,  the  environs  of  Harz-  gate.  A  little  way  out  of  the  town  are 
burg;  eighth,  the  valley  of  the  Oker  and  ;  the  pools,  the  waters  of  which  are  made 
Goslar.  Nearly  all  the  points  of  interest  yellow  by  the  ochre  that  is  found  in  them  ; 


can  be  visited  in  carriages.  There  is  a 
good  road  between  Goslar,  Herzberg,  and 
Wernigerode,  between  (Joslar  and  Oste- 
rode,  between  Wernigerode,  Elbingcrode, 


and  a  short  distance  from  them  some  curi- 
ous rocks,  nearly  100  feet  high,  calkd  the 
Kltts,  where  a  grotto  has  been  h^wu  and 
a  chapel  built. 


and  Blankenburg.  One  from  Harzburg1  On  the  way  to  Harzburg  you  go  through 
to  the  foot  of  the  Brocken,  and  from  Wer-  a  village  called  Oker,  situated  at  the  en- 
nigerode,  to  the  top  of  the  Brocken  by  trance  of  the  wild  valley  so  called,  and 


Ilsenberg. 

Carriage*  with  two  horses  cost  15  marks 


renowned  for  extensive  iron- works.     Ho- 
tel, Liier. 


per  day.  not  including  tolls  and  pourboire.  Harzburg. — A  place  of  great  resort,  sit- 

Guides  are  almost  indispensable;  the  usual  uated  at  the  entrance  of  the  Radau  dale, 

price  is  four  marks,  and  one  groschen  per  The  most  striking  feature  is  the  hill,  about 
mile  return-money.                                           ]  1600  feet  high,  ycleped  Burgberg,  with  the 

The  Harz    Mountains   are  about  sixty  ruins    of  a  castle    built  by  the  Emperor 

miles  long  by  twenty  broad,  and  are  the  Henry  IV.,  the   prospect   from  which   is 

most  northern  mountain  range  in  Germany,  magnificent.    At  a  short  distance  from  the 

The  Oberharz  is  the  most  westerly  portion  ;  town  is  to  be  seen  a    beautiful  artificial 

even'  thing   here    is   dark    and    gloomy,  cascade.     Taking   Harzburg  as  a  centre, 


The  eastern  portion,  or  Unterharz,  is  pleas- 
anter,  and  the  scenery  more  picturesque. 
The  range  lies  on  the  borders  of  Hanover, 
Brunswick,  and  Anhalt  (see  Germany). 


interesting  excursions  may  be  enjoyed  in 
various  directions  to  places  not  far  remote. 
The  Hotel  Burgberg  is  recommended. 
Clausthal,  the  chief  town  of  the  Harz,  is 


The  mountains,  of  which  Brocken  is  the  reached  through  the  picturesque  valley  of 

highest,  are  neither  lofty  nor  grand,  and  the  Oker,  with  about  10.000  inhabitants  ; 

the  tourist  must  not  expect  to  see  either  it  is  the  most  important  mining  place  in 

the  Alps  or  Pyrenees.  the  Harz.     The  hill  on  which  it  stands  is 

August   and    September   are    the  best  1800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  and 

months  to  visit  the  Harz.  the  country  about  it  Js  bare  and  desolate. 

Supposing  the  traveler  at   Brunswick,  Houses  and  churches  are  built  of  wood, 

we  will  commence  the  tour  of  the  Harz  at  There  is  in  the  School  of  Mines  an  exten- 

Goflar.  sive   collection  of  models  and   minerals. 

From    Brunswick  to    Goslar    (railway").  Hotel,  The  Krotij, 

Time,  1  h.55  ni. ;  fare,  first  clas?,  3  marks  A  high-road,  affording  gome  beautiful 


4  g. ;  second  class,  2  marks  8  g. 

Goslar, — Once  an  important  free  town 
VOL.  II.—  C  2 


prospects,  brings  the  tourist  to 

Osterode,  a  small  town,  interesting  only 
591 


HERZBERG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BALLEXSTEDT. 


on  account  of  many  very  old  houses.  Ho- 
tel, Englischer  Hof. 

Ilerzberg. — The  only  attraction  here  is 
a  very  old  castle  where  the  Dukes  of 
Brunswick  used  to  reside.  Tho  lire-arms 
manufactory  is,  however,  well  worth  a 
visit. 

Andreasberg,  reached  through  the  pict- 
uresque Sieber  valley,  is  a  small  town 
1960  feet  above  the  sea,  and  most  roman- 
tically situated.  Here  is  a  silver  foundry. 

The  foot-path  along  the  llehberger  Gra- 
ben  affords  a  most  interesting  walk  to  the 
Bracken,  the  loftiest  mount  in  the  whole 
range,  being  about  3300  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  On  the  top  and  close  by 
the  inn  is  a  tower,  from  the  top  of  which, 
in  serene  weather,  the  prospect  extends 
80  or  90  miles.  Here  may  then  be  de- 
scried the  spires  of  Gotdngen,  Gotha,  Mag- 
deburg, and  other  cities.  The  various 
masses  of  granite  in  the  neighborhood  of 
this  tower  are  distinguished  by  names  bear- 
ing reference  to  legends  of  the  Middle 
Ages,  such  as  the  Devil's  Pulpit,  etc. 

Ilsenberg. — On  the  top  of  an  eminence 
stands  the  castle  of  Count  Stolberg-Wer- 
nigerode,  who  owns  here  extensive  cast- 
iron  works.  Hotel,  Deutscher  II of. 

The  iron  cross  on  the  Ilsenstein  height 
in  the  Ilsen  valley  was  erected  by  Count 
Stolberg,  to  commemorate  the  names  of 
friends  who  perished  in  the  wars  for  the 
liberation  of  Germany. 

Wernigerode. — Chief  town  of  the  county 
of  Stolberg-Wernigerode,  remarkable  for 
its  handsome  wooden  buildings  in  Gothic 
style.  The  Town-hall,  prominent  among 
them,  is  of  the  13th  or  14th  centurjr. 
Pleasant  walks  and  beautiful  views  may 
be  enjoyed  in  the  immediate  environs. 
The  castle,  which  commands  a  panoramic 
view  of  the  town,  stands  amid  most  pict- 
uresque scenery.  Hotel,  Lindenberg. 

Blankenburg. — In  a  very  romantic  site. 
Here  is  the  splendid  castle  where  Maria 
Theresa  lived  in  her  youth.  The  town 
was  bombarded  during  the  Thirty-years' 
War.  Hotel,  The  White  Eagle,  The  sand- 
stone rocks,  277  feet  high,  and  the  ruins  of 
a  stronghold  at  Pegenstein,  little  more  than 
one  mile  from  Blankenburg,  are  worth  a 
visit. 

The  Kosslrappe  is  a  huge  mass  of  granite 
some  1500  feet  above  the  sea,  and  700  above 
the  Bode,  rising  perpendicularly  on  three 
592 


sides  and  projecting  over  the  valley.  It 
owes  its  name  (the  Horse's  Hoof)  from  a 
legend  of  some  princess,  who,  being  pur- 
sued by  a  giant,  leaped  her  horse  across 
the  valley  of  the  Bode,  who  left  in  the 
rock  the  dint  of  his  hoof. 

Quedlinburg,  once  a  free   town    of  the 
empire,  founded  in  the  10th  century,  con- 
tains 17,000  inhabitants.     Hotel,  The  Black 
|  Bear.     The  castle,  rising  on  a  rock,  was 
an  abbey  (secularized  in  1802),  whose  ab- 
j  besses  were  persons  of  great  importance, 
bearing  the  title  of  Princesses  of  the  Em- 
;  pire,  and  enjoying  many  privileges,  which, 
'  however,  they  forfeited,  as  well  as  the  best 
part  of  their  possessions,  by  embracing  the 
Lutheran  doctrines. 

Gernrode  has  a  beautiful  Roman  church 
of  the  10th  century.  Hotels,  The  Gold- 
en Lion  and  the  Inn  on  the  Stubbenberg. 
The  view  enjoyed  from  the  top  of  this  rock 
ought  by  no  means  to  be  missed,  it  being 
\  considered  the  most  charming  and  exten- 
I  sive  in  the  Harz  Mountains.  Thence  a  path 
gradually  ascending  through  delicious 
woodland  brings  you  to  Eambfrg  and  the 
Victorshahe,  on  the  summit  of  which  rises  a 
tower  commanding  a  most  extensive  pros- 
pect. The  same  path  downhill  leads  to  A  lex- 
isbad,  a  small  watering-place.  Schaum's 
Hotel.  Diligences  run  daily  from  this 
place  to 

Ballenstedt,  in  a  very  romantic  situation, 

has  4000  inhabitants.     The  ducal  castle, 

with  a  splendid  park,  contains  a  collection 

|  of  choice   pictures.     Then,  as  you   bend 

your  course  in  the  direction  of  Nordhausen, 

you  meet  Harzgerode  and  Stolberg.     (/-'m- 

tag's  Hotel.)     The  castle  contains  some  in- 

;  teresting  objects.    Neiutadt,~mtb  the  ruins 

I  of  the  Hohensttin  ;  Jlfeld,  in  the  picturesque 

(  Berethal,  formerly  a   monastery  and  far- 

;  famed  school ;  and  then  WaOeemied^  with 

the  ruins  of  a  monastery,  part  of  which  is 

still  in  a  very  good  state  of  preservation. 

The  Lion  Hotel. 

From  Afagdeburg  to  Kreiensen.  Time, 
2  h,  30  m.  Passing  Lutter,  near  which 
Tilly  gained  a  victory  over  Christian  IV. 
of  Denmark,  and  Seesen,  whence  parties 
visiting  the  Harz  Mountains  turn  off, 
Kreiensen  is  reached.  This  is  the  junction 
of  the  Hanover  and  Cassel  line.  Good 
restaurant  at  the  station.  The  road  here 
crosses  the  Leine,  and  passes  Jlolzm'nden, 
•which  contains  a  celebrated grammar^clioo) 


HflXTEK. 


[THE  EMPIHK  OF  GERMANY.] 


STEINHEIM. 


and  engineering  institution.  On  the  left 
bank  of  the  Weser,  which  the  road  crosses, 
is  situated  the  remains  of  one  of  the  most 
noted  Benedictine  abbeys  in  Germany. 
Corvey  was  founded  by  Louis  the  Pious  in  '. 
813,  and  was  governed  by  prince  abbots  for 
nearly  one  thousand  years.  It  was  the  first 
seat  oV  Christianity  in  the  district.  The  first 
five  books  of  the  ''Annals  of  Tacitus"  were  ] 
found  here  in  the  library  in  1514.  It  is 
now  the  property  of  Princa  Hohenlohe. 

Iloxter  —  Hotel,  Schwiete — an  ancient 
town  still  surrounded  by  walls,  at  one 
time  a  member  of  the  Hanseatic  League, 
and  a  free  town  of  the  empire.  The  ruins 
of  the  old  watch-tower  on  the  right  of  the 
railway  was  at  one  time  the  stronghold  of 
Bruns,  the  brother  of  Witikind,  hence  the 
name  Brunsberg.  It  was  one  of  the  most 
famous  of  the  Saxon  strongholds,  and  the 
scene  of  a  fierce  conflict  between  Charle- 
magne and  the  Saxons. 

A  fine  avenue  of  lime-trees  connects 
Hoxter  with  the  Abbey  of  Corvev. 

From  Hoxter  a  diligence  runs  twice  a 
day  during  the  season  to  Pyrmont,  a  wa- 
tering-place of  considerable  note.  Hotels, 
Krone  and  Lippixher  Hof.  The  waters  are 
chalybeate.  There  is  a  line  avenue,  about 
one  mile  long,  leading  from  the  springs  to 
the  chateau  of  Prince  Waldeck,  which  is 
the  principal  promenade  of  the  visitors. 

At  Driburg  there  are  sulphurous  mud-  ' 
baths,  surrounded  with  pleasure-grounds. 

Altenbeken  junction.  —  Here  there  is  a 
line  running  to  Schwarzburg  and  Cassel.' 
Paderborn.  Hotels,  Ldjfelmann  and 
Concordia.  An  ancient  and  picturesque 
town,  containing  13,000  inhabitants.  It 
was  the  most  ancient  episcopal  seat  in 
Wi-stphulia  founded  by  Charlemagne. 

The  Cathedral,  a  large,  peculiar  building, 
•was  reconstructed  in  1243,  after  being 
nearly  destroyed  by  fire  :  it  contains  numer- 
ous episcopal  monuments,  but  nothing  par- 
ti.'iilirly  interesting,  if  the  two  sculptured 
portals  bs  excepted. 

St.  Bartholomew's  Chapel,  an  older  struct- 
ure than  the  cathedral,  is  built  in  the  Ro- 
manesque style,  it  is  said,  by  Greek  work- 
men. 

The  Rathhaus  is  a  picturesque  building 
of  the  17th  century. 

One  quarter  hour  from  the  station  is  the 
iron  bathing  establishment  oflnselbad,  and 
five  miles  farther  is  the  Lippe.*pringe,  a  wa- 


tering-place much  frequented.  Its  waters 
are  sulphurous,  with  much  carbonic  acid. 
Hotel,  Concordia. 

At  SteaJtan  station  a  railway,  nearly 
finished,  leads  through  Deimoldto  Htrford 
(see  Route  145).  In  the  mean  time  dili- 
gence daily  in  2  h.  30  min.,  passing  Grot^n- 
luirr),  the  highest  summit  of  the  Teutobur- 
gcr  Wald,  TJOO  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  on  the  summit  of  which  a  monument 
has  been  erected  to  the  German  hero  Her- 
mann, chief  of  the  Cherusci,  who  defeated 
the  Romans  under  Varus. 

The  statue  is  an  imposing  work  of  art. 
Eighty-live  feet  high  from  the  point  of  the 
uplifted  sword  to  the  legendary  eagle  trod- 
den under  foot  by  the  victor,  this  gigantic 
Hermann  in  form  and  countenance  is  in- 
tended to  impersonate  the  manly  vigor, 
frankness,  and  strength  attributed  to  the 
ancient  Germans  by  their  Roman  enemies. 
His  costume,  being  the  old  Saxon  tunic, 
with  bearskin  and  helmet,  leaves  arms  and 
legs  uncovered,  and  gives  full  effect  to  the 
huge  pioportions  of  the  second  tallest  figure 
erected  since  the  Rhodian  Colossus.  The 
circular  cupola  temple  which  forms  the 
pedestal  is  89  feet  high,  and  is  supported 
by  a  foundation  66  feet  in  diameter.  The 
figure,  being  of  chased  copper,  derives  so- 
lidity from  a  complicated  system  of  iron 
tubes  placed  in  the  interior  of  the  body. 
The  copper  used  in  making  the  statue 
weighs  237  cwt.,  the  iron  1133  cwt.  In  the 
open  temple  which  forms  the  base  is  a 
bronze  haut-relief  of  the  German  emperor, 
and  sundry  German  and  Latin  inscriptions 
to  commemorate  the  reign  in  which  the 
monument  was  completed.  The  German 
inscriptions  chiefly  refer  to  the  last  war, 
which  established  Unity  and  revived  Em- 
pire, while  a  Latin  legend  contains  the 
well-known  words  of  Tacitus  in  his  "  An- 
I  nals,"  book  2,  chapter  88,  in  which  Her- 
i  mann  is  described  as  the  only  one  who 
had  the  courage  to  attack  Rome,  and  the 
strength  to  defeat  her  when  at  the  height 
'  of  her  power.  The  monument  was  un- 
veiled in  1875,  in  the  presence  of  the  Em- 
peror William,  who  was  particularly  kind 
to  the  aged  architect,  Herr  von  Bandcl. 
The  German  crown  -  prince  and  Prince 
Charles  of  Prussia  attended  the  inaugura- 
tion. The  German  minor  sovereigns  were 
represented  by  generals  and  adjutants  de- 
puted for  the  occasion.  On  his  way  to 
593 


DETMOLD. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


ELBERFELD. 


Detmold  the  emperor  visited  the  ancient 
imperial  city  of  Goslar,  the  seat  of  the 
Saxon  emperors,  where  a  large  concourse 
of  people  from  the  Harz  Mountains  and 
East  Hanover  greeted  his  arrival  and  fol- 
lowed his  steps  v,-hile  inspecting  the  ca- 
thedral and  palaces.  The  monument  over- 
looks the  spot  where  the  battle  is  supposed 
to  have  been  fought  in  the  year  9. 

Between  Lippespringe  and  Detmold  stand 
the  Extern-shin,  live  blocks  of  stone  rising 
out  of  the  ground  like  gigantic  teeth.  The 
situation  is  particularly  picturesque,  and  is 
a  favorite  resort  of  the  citizens  of  Detmold. 

Detmold,  or  Lippe-Detmold,  capital  of  the 
principality,  contains  7000  inhabitants.  It 
is  a  very  pretty  and  agreeable  town,  and  the 
residence  of  the  Prince  of  Lippe-Detmold, 
who  is  very  rich,  owning  nearly  the  whole 
of  the  principality.  The  Palace  is  the 
principal  building,  and  is  surrounded  by 
handsome  gardens. 

A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  prince's 
stables,  called  the  Marstall,  where  some 
seventy  horses  of  the  famous  Senner  breed 
may  be  seen.  They  are  of  Arabian  origin, 
and  are  allowed  to  run  wild  in  the  Senner 
Wald,  where  the  prince  has  a  breeding  es- 
tablishment (Lopshorn),  about  five  miles 
from  Detmold.] 

Passing  the  stations  Salzkotten,  where 
there  are  salt-works,  and  Lippstaclt,  a  town 
of  7500  inhabitants,  where  there  are  two  fine 
churches, 

Soest  is  reached:  this  antiquated  town 
contains  12,000  inhabitants.  Hotels,  Over- 
weg  and  Vossinnkel.  It  was  a  free  impe- 
rial city  belonging  to  the  Hanseatic  League, 
and  in  1447  successfully  withstood  a  famous 
siege  of  60,000  men  under  the  Archbishop 
of  Cologne.  It  has  several  remarkable 
old  churches  which  deserve  to  be  visited, 
especially  the  Cathedral,  Waisen-Kirche, 
and  Thomas-Kirche. 

[Near  Hagau  the  Ruhr-Sitg  railway 
branches  off  to  the  left,  distant  2  h.  80  m. 
from  Sieffen,  passing  Limburg,  a  town  of 
4000  inhabitants.  Situated  in  a  very  pict- 
uresque position  is  the  chateau  of  the 
Prince  of  Bentheim-Tecklenbourg-Rheda. 
Also  in  the  distance  are  seen  the  ruins  of 
the  Hohen-Syburg  Castle,  the  residence  of 
Witikind,  the  last  duke  of  the  Saxons, 
who  was  here  conquered  by  Charlemagne. 

From  Limburg  a  small  branch  road  runs 
to  Iserlohn,  a  manufacturing  town  of  con- 
594 


siderable  importance,  containing  16,000 
inhabitant?,  devoted  to  the  manufacture  of 
steam-engines,  brass-ware,  pins,  needles, 
wire,  paper,  etc. 

About  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
station  of  Letmathe,  near  the  railway,  is  the 
highly  interesting  Dechenhohle,  a  cavern 
discovered  in  1868.  Cards  of  admission  ( J 
mark)  can  be  procured  at  the  station,  whence 
the  visitor  proceeds  to  the  Griinc,  where 
there  is  a  small  hotel.  A  foot-path  leads 
to  the  entrance  of  the  cave,  which  has  been 
explored  about  four  miles ;  visitors  gener- 
ally visit  only  the  Oryelgrotte,  Nixengrotte, 
Alhambra,  and  Vorhalle.  The  Nixengrotte 
is  considered  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
stalactite  grottoes  known.  A  beautiful  il- 
lumination is  given  at  a  cost  of  ten  marks. 
A  very  peculiar  effect  is  produced  by  the 
ignition  of  magnesium  wi.e,  which  is  sold 
to  the  visitor. 

There  is  another  cave  close  by  called 
the  Grurmannshiihle,  where  numerous  re- 
mains of  animals  have  been  discovered. 

Siegen,  an  ancient  town  of  7260  inhabit- 
ants, has  now  become  the  centre  of  the  iron 
traffic  of  the  district.  It  contains  two  cas- 
tles of  the  Princes  of  Nassau-Siegen.  The 
title  became  extinct  in  1743.  The  lower 
castle  contains  a  monument  of  Prince  Mau- 
rice of  Orange.  It  has  recently  been  as- 
certained that  Siegen,  and  not  Cologne,  has 
the  honor  of  being  the  birthplace  of  Ru- 
bens in  1577.] 

.  Schrcelm.  Hotel,  RosenJcranz.  A  busy 
town  of  6000  inhabitants,  and  considered 
as  marking  the  limits  between  the  Franks 
and  Saxons.  About  a  mile  from  the  town 
there  is  a  large  stalactite  cavern,  called  the 
Klutert.  Near  Gavehberg,  a  short  distance 
from  Schwelm,  Count  Frederick  of  Isen- 
burg  murdered  his  cousin,  Englebert,  arch- 
bishop of  Cologne,  on  his  way  back  from 
the  Diet  of  Knights  at  Soest,  before  which 
body  the  count  had  been  called  to  answer 
for  certain  misconduct.  He  was  appre- 
hended a  year  later,  and  broken  on  the 
wheel  at  Cologne. 

Elberfeld  and  Barmen,  two  towns  which 
are  connected  by  one  long  street,  contain 
together  146,500  inhabitants.  Hotel,  Wie- 
denhnf  at  Elberfeld,  and  Vogler,  near  the 
station,  at  Barmen.  They  are  purely  man- 
ufacturing places,  densely  populated,  pro. 
ducing  cotton,  silk,  ribbons,  iron,  cutlery, 
etc. 


SPANDAU. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OP'  GERMANY.] 


HAMBURG. 


A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  Eitsenhohe. 
a  round  tower  on  the  top  of  the  hill  of 
JIaardt.  It  is  surrounded  by  pleasure- 
gardens.  There  is  a  statue  to  St.  Suitbcr- 
tus,  the  first  preacher  of  the  Gospel  here. 


BOUTE  Xo.  147. 

Berlin  to  Hamburg  and  Schleswig,  via 
Wittenberg,  Hayenow,  and  Euchen.  Time 
(express),  4f  h.;  ordinary  trains,  5  h.  17 
m.,  and  6  h.  Fare,  tirst  class,  '2o  marks; 
second  class,  17  marks  20  pf.  (sleeping- 
car,  11  P.M.,  8  marks). 

Three  miles  after  leaving  Berlin  the 
railway  crosses  the  Spree  near  the  Char- 
lotten  gardens,  and  in  twenty  minutes 
reaches  Spandau,  a  strong  fortress  of  the 
second  class,  containing  17,500  inhabit- 
ants. Hotel,  Adler.  The  principal  object 
of  attraction  is  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas, 
which  contains  several  handsome  monu- 
ments. The  present  Penitentiary  was  for- 
merly the  palace  of  the  Brandenburg 
Electors. 

A  new  foundry  for  the  manufacture  of 
cannon  has  lately  been  established  here. 

Ten  miles  east  of  Friesach  is  the  battle- 
field of  Feftrbellin.  where  the  Great  Elector 
of  Brandenburg,  Frederick  William  (in 
1675\  with  five  thousand  cavalry,  van- 
quished the  Swedes,  11,000  strong.  A 
monument  has  been  erected  to  commem- 
orate the  event. 

Zernitz  station,  whence  a  diligence  runs 
daily  to  \Vittstock.  a  manufacturing  town 
of  considerable  importance,  where  the 
Swedes,  in  1G3G,  gained  a  victory  over  the 
imperial  troops. 

Wittenberg  junction.  A  line  from  Mag- 
deburg here  joins  the  main  line.  There  is 
also  a  line  to  Hamburg  through  Luneburg, 
which  branches  off  to  the  left. 

Grdbow  is  a  small  town  in  Mecklenburg, 
noted  for  its  storehouses  of  butter,  which 
is  here  sold  in  large  quantities  at  annual 
fairs. 

r.mltrigsluiit,  containing  about  4500  in- 
habitants. Hotel,  N'fimw.  It  is  the  sum- 
mer residence  of  the  Grand-Duke  of  Mock- 
lenburg-Schwerin,  whose  palace  contains 
some  very  fine  pictures,  also  a  collection 


of  Slavonic  antiquities.  The  palace  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  line  park  and  garden.  His 
stables  are  well  rilled  with  the  finest  horses 
in  the  country.  He  pays  particular  atten- 
tion to  the  improvement  of  the  stock.  The 
Russian  chapel  contains  the  mausoleum 
of  the  Archduchess  Helena,  who  died  in 
1803. 

At  Buchen  station  the  line  to  Lubccl- 
diverges.  Notice  here  and  at  Bergedorf 
the  peculiar  and  picturesque  costume  of 
the  peasant-women,  who  are  supposed  to 
be  descendants  of  the  Dutch,  from  having 
retained  their  costume. 

Near  to  Bergedorf  are  some  forests,  and 
Sachsenicald,  presented  to  Prince  Bismarck 
bv  the  emperor. 
595 

Hamburg,;),  free  imperial  city  of  Germany, 
situated  on  the  River  Elbe,  about  75  miles 
from  its  mouth.  It  contains  410,127  inhab- 
itants. The  principal  hotels  are  KtreiCt, 
the  magnificent  Hamburger  ffqf,  Hotel  de 

1 V Europe,  Hotel  Moser,  and  Hotel  Germania. 
It  is  the  first  commercial  port  of  German}'. 

!  The  population  is  nearly  all  Lutheran. 
Its  annual  receipts  and  expenses  are  about 
22,000,000  marks.  Its  debt  124.654,095 
marks.  Its  total  importations  in  1873  were 
over  two  thousand  million  marks=$500,- 
000,000.  Upward  of  5000  vessels  annually 
enter  and  quit  the  harbor,  and  from  25,000 
to  30,000  emigrants  embark  here  annually, 
most  of  them  going  to  the  United  States. 

One  of  the  most  successful  lines  which 
cross  the  Atlantic  is  the  Hamburg  Amer- 
ican Packet  Company,  sailing  between 
Hamburg  and  New  York,  and  vice  versa, 
weekly ;  also  from  Havre  to  New  York. 
These  strong,  safe,  and  powerfully  built 
steamships  leave  New  York  every  Thurs- 
day at  noon,  Hamburg  every  Wednesday 
morning,  and  Havre  every  Saturday  morn- 
ing. The  ships  are  all  commanded  by 
men  of  the  highest  maritime  ability,  and 
the  cuisine  does  justice  to  Hamburg,  whose 
cooks  for  centuries  have  been  proverbial. 

This  company  also  dispatches  steamers 
from  Hamburg  and  Havre  once  a  month 
during  the  season  to  Havana  and  New  Or- 
leans, and  the  different  West  India  Islands 
every  two  weeks  ;  to  Panama,  all  the  ports 
in  the  Pacific,  Japan,  China,  etc.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  important  commercial  cities 
of  the  world.  Vessels  of  large  size  come 
595 


HAMBURG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


LUBECK. 


quite  up  to  the  town,  in  front  cf  which  the 
river  is  divided  into  several  channels  by 
numerous  small  and  exceedingly  fertile 
islands.  The  older  portion  of  Hamburg 
was  badly  built,  and  consisted  of  narrow 
and  dirty  streets,  but  in  1842  sixty-one 
streets  and  1747  houses  were  destroyed  by 
fire,  and  many  important  improvements 
•were  made  in  the  process  of  rebuilding. 
The  business  portion  of  the  city  is  really 
very  magnificent,  but  there  are  few  public 
buildings  deserving  of  special  note. 

The  Exchange  here  is  a  very  beautiful 
building.     It  waa  finished  in  1841.     One  j 
of  the  most  interesting  sights  is  to  look 
down  from  the  galleries  during  change 
and  watch  the  excitement  depicted  on  the 
faces   of1  from   4000   to   5000   merchants,  i 
Some  of  the  principal  churches  were  de-  i 
stroyed  by  the  conflagration  of  1842,  and  j 
have  since  been  replaced  by  modern  edi- 
fices.    There  is  an  elegant  Jewish  temple, 
besides  several  synagogues.      The  Gym- 
nasium, a   modern   structure,  possesses   a 
library  of  200,000  volumes,  with  a  museum. 
The  walls  and  various  fortifications  have 
been  converted  into  boulevards  and  gar- 
dens, which  extend  nearly  around  the  town. 
The  church  of  St.  Peter's  is  the  most  an-  ; 
cient  in  the  city,  having  been  built  in  the 
12th  century,  but  St.  Michael's  is  the  most j 
magnificent;  it  has  a  tower  460  feet  high, 
which  is  ascended  by  600  steps.     It  con-  j 
tains  an  organ  with  5GOO  pipes,  considered 
one  of  the  finest  in  German}'.     The  church 
is   capable  of  holding   6000  people.     St. 
Nicholas's,  finished  all  but  the  tower  in 
1863,  is  built  in  the  rich  Gothic  style  of  the 
13th  century. 

The  literary  and  charitable  institutions 
of  Hamburg  are  very  numerous.  The 
Orphan  Asylum  and  the  Great  Hospital,  ca- 
pable of  containing  5000  inmates,  deserve 
a  visit.  Its  trade  embraces  every  article 
of  German  commerce,  both  in  the  way  of 
import  and  export,  and  the  Elbe  is  the 
great  channel  by  which  these  commodities 
are  conveyed.  It  has  likewise  considera- 
ble manufactures.  The  principal  branches 
of  industrj-,  in  this  respect,  are  sugar  refin- 
ing, brewing,  and  distilling,  calico-print- 
ing, dyeing,  hat -making,  silk  and  velvet 
weaving,  and  the  making  of  snuff  and  to- 
bacco. The  natives  of  Hamburg  are  fa- 
mous for  their  hospitality,  and  persons  vis- 
iting the  city,  properly  introduced,  receive 
596 


the  very  best  of  attention  from  her  mer- 
chants. It  is  customary  to  fee  the  serv- 
ants in  private  houses  where,  you  dine; 
they  generally  expect  50  cents  from  every 
visitor.  The  city  is  subject  to  inundations 
from  the  Elbe,  which  often  rises  twenty 
feet,  filling  the  cellars  of  houses  bordering 
on  the  river,  the  tenants  of  which  make 
arrangements  for  occupying  the  upper 
floors.  The  suburbs  of  Hamburg  are  very 
beautiful.  The  famous  fortifications  have 
been  converted  into  handsome  promenades, 
and  the  Alter  and  Ntuer  Jungfernstieg,  with 
the  Alsterdamm,  are  most  beautiful.  A 
visit  should  be  made  to  the  Zoological  Gar- 
dens,  Botanic  Gardens,  Water-works,  and 
Cemeteries.  Flower-gardens,  tea-gardens, 
tombs,  and  monuments  appear  in  every  di- 
rection. The  Stadt-  Theater,  one  of  the 
finest  in  Germany,  should  be  visited.  It 
is  not  open  during  the  three  summer 
months.  The  Thalia-Theater  is  devoted 
to  comic  performances.  The  public  ball- 
rooms are  much  visited  by  the  middle 
classes.  Carriages,  the  single  course,  J 
mark ;  by  the  hour,  1 J  marks. 

[An  excursion  should  be  made  to  the  an- 
cient and  picturesque  city  of  Lubeck.  Time, 
1  h.  20  m.  Fare,  first  class,  5  m.  10  pf. ;  sec- 
ond class,  3  m.  80  pf.  Lubeck  is  a  free  city  of 
Germany,  and  contains  about  49,183  inhab- 
itants. Its  whole  territory  contains  about 
52,158.  Hotels,  Stadt  Hamburg  and  Duff- 
ke's  Hotel.  Its  accounts  are  made  in  marks 
and  schillings,  the  same  as  in  Hamburg. 
Lubeck  has  considerable  transit  trade,  but 
no  longer  enjoys  its  ancient  commercial 
importance,  having  never  recovered  from 
its  destruction  by  the  French  troops  in 
1806.  Blucher,  after  the  defeat  of  the 
battle  of  Jena,  threw  himself  into  this 
town,  much  against  the  desire  of  the  citi- 
zens. He  was  hotly  pursued  by  70,000 
French  troops  under  the  command  of  Mu- 
rat,  Soult,  and  Bernadotte,  who  carried  the 
town  by  storm.  It  was  then  committed 
to  the  mercies  of  the  French  soldiers  for 
three  days. 

Lubeck  was  the  smallest  of  the  three 
Hanseatic  towns  of  the  German  Empire  ; 
by  edict  of  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.,  in 
1226,  and  during  a  long  period  of  prosper- 
ity, it  was  the  seat  of  government  of  tho 
League,  and  its  great  prosperity  only  com- 
menced to  decay  about  the  middle  of  tho 
16th  century.  It  now  remains  one  of  the 


Lt'BECK. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


LCBECK. 


best  examples  of  singular  antiquity  in  its 
churches  and  houses. 

The  Hanseatie  League,  of  which  Lubcck 
was  one  of  the  capitals,  derives  its  name 
from  ''  Hansa,"  an  association,  and  was  a 
confederation  of  Northern  German  towns 
for  the  purpose  of  protecting  their  com- 
merce from  the  freebooters.  It  originated 
in  the  12th  century  by  an  alliance  between 
Lubeck  and  Hamburg,  and  gradually  in- 
creased until  it  numbered  eighty -live 
towns.  It  was  divided  into  four  sections, 
the  capitals  of  each  being  Lubeck,  Dantzic, 
Brunswick,  and  Cologne.  Their  power 
was  once  so  great  that  they  frequently  de- 
clared war  against  Denmark  and  Sweden. 
The  League  was  dissolved  after  the  Thirty- 
years'  War,  and  Lubeck,  Hamburg,  and 
Bremen  are  the  only  Hanseatic  towns  left. 
The  city  was  formerly  surrounded  by  walls 
and  bastions,  which  have  been  leveled  and 
converted  into  public  walks.  It  is  still 
entered,  however,  by  four  ancient  gates. 
Many  of  the  buildings  present  a  highly 
picturesque  appearance,  finely  decorated 
with  high  roofs  and  gable-ends.  Sir  God- 
frey Kneller  and  the  brothers  Van  Ostade 
were  born  in  Lubeck. 

The  IIoktein-Thor,  an  isolated  part  of 
the  fortifications,  dates  from  the  15th  cen- 
tury. It  has  been  recently  restored.  The 
Rnthkauf,  completed  in  1517,  is  situated  in 
the  market-place,  and  is  constructed  of  red 
and  black  glazed  bricks,  surmounted  by 
five  pinnacles.  Here  the  members  of  the 
Hanseatic  League  held  their  meetings  and 
signed  their  treaties  with  foreign  embassa- 
dors.  Fail  not  to  visit  the  Rathskeller 
(144;$),  which  has  been  converted  into  a  res- 
taurant (wine  and  oysters,  but  no  beer). 
The  ^[ariejik'irche  is  very  beautiful.  It 
was  built  in  the  early  part  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury, and  contains  some  fine  pictures  by 
Overbeck,  who  is  a  native  of  Lubeck.  The 
principal  object  of  attraction,  however,  is 
the  clock  standing  behind  the  high  altar. 
At  12  o'clock  figures  of  the  seven  electors 
p-i*s  1 1. -fore  a  statue  of  the  emperor,  each 
bowing  as  it  passes.  The  church  was  con- 
structed of  brick,  in  the  Gothic  style;  the 
nave  is  very  hi^'h,  but  no  part  of  it  seems 
at  the  present  (1*7<>)  to  be  perpendicular. 
The  picture  called  the  Dance  of  Death  is  in 
a  closed  chapel,  which  the  custodian  will 
open.  It  is  attributed  to  Holbein.  No- 
tice the  Mass  of  St.  Gregory,  in  the  chapel 


of  the  Bergenfahrer :  the  stained  glass  is 
very  fine ;  it  was  executed  in  1436. 

The  Cathedral,  founded  by  Henry  the 
Lion  in  117:!.  was  completed  in  1334.  Its 
towers  are  410  feet  high.  The  side  chapels 
contain  numerous  monuments  of  the  old 
merchant  princes,  bishops,  canons,  etc. 
The  wood-carving  of  the^creen  is  admira- 
bly executed.  The  elegant  railing  around 
the  pulpit  is  attributed  to  the  devil !  What 
object  his  satanic  majesty  had  in  produc- 
ing such  a  work  the  custodian  does  not 
explain. 

In  the  Greveraden-Capelle  are  the  finest 
pictures  in  Lubeck ;  they  are  attributed  to 
Memling.  They  are  in  the  form  of  a  trip- 
tych, or  altar-piece  in  three  compartments ; 
the  middle  one  affixed  to  the  wall,  and  the 
other  two  folding  on  this.  On  the  outside 
shutters  is  the  Annunciation,  o.:  the  inner 
shutters  Saints  Blasius,  ^Egidius  with  the 
deer,  John  the  Baptist,  and  Jerome  with  the 
lion.  In  the  interior  is  the  history  of  the 
Passion,  in  three  compartments  and  twenty- 
three  scenes,  from  the  Mount  of  Olives  to 
the  Ascension,  the  Crucifixion  forming  the 
grand  central  scene. 

In  the  Church  of  St.  Catharine  is  a  col- 
lection of  Lubeck  antiquities. 

The  Hospital  zum  Heiligengeist,  a  fine 
building,  dates  from  the  13th  century.  It 
is  an  admirably  conducted  institution. 

The  Casino,  1GO  Beckergrube,  is  open  to 
strangers.  The  wooden  tower  on  the  ram- 
parts, called  Chimborasso,  is  an  admirable 
point  from  which  to  obtain  a  fine  view  of 
the  town  and  harbor. 

Steamers  to  Travemunde,  distance  by 
the  Trave  9i  miles,  twice  each  day.  This 
was  the  former  port  of  Lubeck,  and  is  now 
a  watering  -  place.  Hotels,  Kurhaus  and 
Steamers  three  times  each  week 
to  Copenhagen  (see  Vol.  III.)  in  15  hours ; 
to  Christiania  in  52  hours  ;  to  Stockholm  in 
50  hours,  twice  a  week ;  and  to  St  Peters- 
burg weekly,  in  60  hours.] 

In  addition  to  the  Hamburg  American 
Packet  Company's  steamers  mentioned 
above,  there  are  steamers  leaving  Hamburg 
for  Antwerp  weekly  in  40  hours  ;  for  Am- 
sterdam twice  a  week,  in  35  hours ;  for 
Hull  four  times  a  week,  in  40  hours ;  for 
Heligoland  three  times  a  week,  in  6  h.  30 
m. ;  for  London  five  times  a  week,  in  45 
hours;  for  New  York  twice  a  week. 

[An  excursion  should  be  made  from 
597 


HELIGOLAND. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


SCHLESWIG. 


Hamburg  to  Heligoland,  if  here  during  the 
months  of  July  or  August,  or  from  the 
middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of  September, 
which  is  nearly  the  length  of  the  season. 
Steamers  leave  several  times  a  week,  and 
make  the  trip  in  from  six  to  eight  hours. 
Fare,  16  marks  ;  return  tickets,  26  marks. 

Passing  the  t<iwn  and  fortress  of  Stade, 
which  is  seen  on  the  left,  and  which  is 
connected  with  the  Elbe  by  a  canal,  is  seen 
near  the  open  sea  Cuihaveti,  much  fre- 
quented by  the  Hamburgers  as  .1  bathing- 
place.  Hotels,  Belvidere  and  Bellevue.  The 
sea-passage  is  only  of  three  or  four  hours' 
duration. 

Heligoland  is  a  small  island,  about  one 
mile  long  arrl  one  third  broad.  It  was 
ceded  by  Schleswig  to  Great  Britain  in 
1807,  and  still  remains  in  possession  of 
that  country.  The  permanent  population 
is  3000,  but  during  the  bathing  season  there 
are  1500  more  persons  on  the  island.  The 
principal  hotels  are  Stadt  London  and  Ho- 
tel Queen  of  England.  These  are  both  in 
the  Oberland,  or  upper  town ;  there  are 
several  others  of  poorer  character  in  the 
Unterland,  or  lower  town. 

A  short  distance  from  the  principal  isl- 
and is  a  small  sand-island  called  the  Dune, 
•where  the  bathing  takes  place,  in  the  cen- 
tre of  which  is  a  pavilion ;  on  one  side 
the  gentlemen  batho,  on  the  other  the 
ladies. 

Several  times  during  the  bathing  season 
there  are  illuminations  of  the  rocks  and 
grottoes,  which  are  very  pretty.  There 
are  numerous  row  and  sailing  boats  for  hire. 

Steamers  run  three  times  a  week  to  Bre- 
merhaven  in  connection  with  the  railway 
to  Bremen.  Time,  4  hours;  fare,  12  marks.] 

Hamburg  to  Altona — time,  25  minutes — 
whence  there  is  a  train  to  Schleswig  four 
times  each  day. 

The  traveler  who  objects  to  a  sea- voyage 
to  Copenhagen  can  go  the  whole  distance 
by  rail  through  Schleswig-Holstein,  Jut- 
land, and  Ftihnen — time,  14  hours;  or  to 
Stockholm  by-  the  same  route  in  38  hours. 

A  Itona  —  Bahnhofs  -  Hotel —  population, 
75,000,  finely  situated  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  Elbe,  surrounded  by  handsome  villas 
and  gardens.  Altona  is  a  free  port,  but 
inferior  to  Hamburg  in  business  and  ex- 
citement. The  town  was  entirely  burned 
by  the  Swedes  in  1713,  consequently  there 
are  no  relics  of  antiquity. 
598 


Altona  to  Schleswig.  Time,  2  h.  52  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  9  marks  12  pf.  (Hamburg). 

Altona  to  Nyborg.     Time,  10  h.  30  m. 

Altona  to  Copenhagen,  by  rail  all  the 
way  with  the  exception  of  a  short  distance 
between  the  islands  of  Fiilmen  and  Seeland. 
Time,  17  h.  45  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  45  marks 
(German) ;  second  class,  35  marks  1  pf. 

Hamburg  to  Cupt-nhagen,  ria  Kiel.  First 
class,  30|  marks;  time,  12i  hours. 

Hamburg  to  Vienna,  vi>i  Leipzig  and 
Dresden  (sleeping-car),  see  Route  186. 

Altona  to  Kiel.  Time,  2  h.  25  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  8  marks  50  pf. 

Neumumter  junction  is  reached  in  1  h. 
4  m.  from  Altona.  This  is  a  town  of  con- 
siderable extent,  containing  nearly  10,000 
inhabitants,  principally  devoted  to  the  man- 
ufacture of  cloth.  Here  lines  branch  off 
to  Kiel  and  Neustadt,  the  main  line  to  Jut- 
land continuing  directly  north  (for  Kiel, 
see  Vol.  IK.). 

Rendsburg.  Hotel,  Stadt  Hamburg.  This 
is  a  fortified  place  of  12,000  inhabitants, 
built  on  the  two  banks  of  the  Eider,  which 
here  separates  the  duchies  of  Holstein  and 
Schleswig.  The  Eider  falls  into  the  North 
Sea  at  Tonning,  and  is  connected  with  the 
Baltic  by  a  canal. 

As  Schleswig  is  approached,  the  great 
beauty  and  natural  strength  of  the  position 
is  at  once  apparent.  The  Danewerk,  an 
intrenchment  which  formerly  defended  the 
Danish  position,  extends  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Schlei  to  Frederieksstadt,  a  distance 
of  forty -six  miles.  The  intrenchments 
have  been  entirely  leveled  since  the  war 
with  Denmark  in  1864,  the  Danish  force  at 
that  time  not  being  capable  of  defending 
them  against  the  Prussians  and  Austri- 
an s. 

Schlesitig.  Hotels,  Stadt  Hamburg  and 
Raven.  The  town  contains  13,600  inhab- 
itants, and  was  founded  in  the  early  part  of 
the  10th  century.  It  was  formerly  the 
residence  of  the  Dukes  of  Schleswig,  but 
its  castle  of  Gottorp  is  now  the  residence 
of  the  commander  of  the  forces  in  Schles- 
wig-Holstein, and  the  question  is  still  an 
open  one  whether  the  province  will  revert 
back  to  Denmark  or  be  retained  by  Prus- 
sia. There  is  nothing  of  importance  to 
detain  the  traveler,  if  the  celebrated  altar- 
piece  of  the  cathedral  be  excepted.  This 
is  a  work  in  carved  oak,  by  Brugrjemann, 
and  represents  a  history  of  the  Passion  in 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


Fl-KX9BURG. 


fourteen  compartments.     It  was  formerly  I 
in  the  possession  of  the  monks  of  IJonles- 
bolm,  who,  it  is  said,  deprived  the  artist  of  ! 
his  sight  to  render  him  incapable  of  ever 
again  executing  so  fine  a  work.     The  sit- 
uation of  Schleswig  is  very  beautiful,  and 
the  Erdburenburg  might  be  visited  for  the 
purpose  of  securing  a  most  charming  view. 

The  MDvenburij,  a  small  island  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  town,  is  densely  covered  with 
white  sea-gulls  the  entire  summer.  They 
j'oini'  regularly  in  March,  and  remain  un- 
til cold  weather,  covering  the  ground  like 
snow.  They  are  shot  in  July,  when  the 
population  take  part  in  the  grand  battue. 
A  diligence  runs  daily  to  Eckernfiirde  and 
Borby,  a  small  watering-place,  and  steam- 
ers twice  a  day  to  Cappeln,  a  beautiful 
jihice  on  the  banks  of  the  Schlei. 

Parsing  Lubeck,  a  small,  quiet  port  on  the 
North  Sea,  where  there  is  a  large  oyster 
park,  Flensbury  is  reached.     Hotels,  Jttisch 
and  ti/ii'tt  Hiimftury.     This  is  a  nourishing 
town  of  -2:>,(IUU  inhabitants,  beautifully  sit-  ; 
uated  on  the  Flensburg  Fjord.    There  is  an 
exquisite  view  from  the  eminence  called  ' 
the  Bellevue,  where  your  guide  will  point 
out  the  various  battle-fields  in  the  vicinity. 
The  village  of  Diippel  is  about  thirteen  i 
miles  from  Flenshurg;  the  intrenchments  ! 
of  this  town  were  carried  by  storm,  April  18, 
1864.    This  was  considered  the  most  brill- 
iant achievement  of  the  Prussians  during 
the  Danish  war.  The  "  Lion  of  Flensburg," 
placed  in  the  Cemetery  to  commemorate 
the  victory  of  the  Danes  at  Idstedt,  was 
carried  off  to  Berlin  in  1864. 

Opposite  the  town  of  Diippel  is  the  isl- 
and of  A Isen,  which  contains  22,500  inhab- 
itants. It  is  connected  with  the  mainland 
by  a  bridge  of  boats,  and  has  a  pleasant 
little  capital  called  Sonderburg,  with  6000 
inhabitants.  Hotel,  Stadt  Hamburg. 

At  Woyens  there  is  a  branch  line  in 
twenty-live  minutes  to  Hadersleben,  a  town 
of  8000  inhabitants. 

Vamdrup  is  the  frontier  Danish  town, 
and  the  seat  of  the  custom-house,  where 
baggage  is  examined. 

At  Kn/iliny  there  are  the  ruins  of  a  fine 
old  castle  ;  but  at  Frettericia,  where  travel- 
ers cross  the  Little  Belt  to  Strifi,  there  is 
nothing  to  be  seen  but  the  monument 
erected  by  the  Danes  to  commemorate  the 
victory  over  the  Schleswig-Holsteiners  in 
1849. 


SCHWERIN, 


The  line  now  crosses  the  fertile  island 
of  I-'uhni'ii,  ;m<l  passes  through  its  capital, 
Odense  (where  in  the  church  of  Kt.  Cunutt 
are  the  tombs  of  kings  John  and  Christian 
II.),  to  the  station  \yborg,  whence  by 
steamer  to  Korsoor,  across  the  Great  Belt, 
and  by  rail  to  Copenhagen,  in  3  h.  30  m. 

(See  Route  116,  Vol.  III.). 


ROUTE  No.  148. 

Hamburg-  to  Slralsund,  via  Lubeck  or 
Schwerin  and  Rostock.  Time  7  and  9  hours 
to  R '.istock.  Fare,  first  class,  bl  marks. 
From  Rostock  to  Stralsund  by  diligence  in 
10  hours. 

Lubeck  is  described  in  Route  147  (see 
Index). 

Lubeck  to  Schwerin  in  2  h.  15  m. ;  fare,  7 
marks.  If  going  to  Hagenow,  change  cars 
at  this  junction. 

Schwerin,  capital  of  the  grand-duchy  of 
Mecklenburg-Schwerin,  contains  25,000  in- 
habitants. Principal  hotels,  Du  Word  and 
Stern's.  It  is  situated  on  the  Lake  of 
Schwerin,  and  the  modern  portion  of  the 
town  is  quite  pretty. 

The  Cathedral,  which  dates  from  the 
middle  of  the  14th  century,  is  in  the  finest 
Baltic-Gothic  style,  and  has  recently  been 
restored.  The  chapel  of  the  Sacred  Blood, 
the  burial-place  of  the  ducal  family,  is  very 
fine ;  the  paintings  and  stained-glass  win- 
dows are  by  Cornelius.  There  is  a  beauti- 
ful bronze  monument  of  the  Duchess  He- 
lena. 

The  Schloss,  or  grand-ducal  palace,  is 
erected  on  an  island  in  Lake  Schwerin.  It 
is  surrounded  with  handsome  gardens, 
which  serve  as  a  public  promenade.  The 
palace  is  an  imposing  building,  four  stories 
high,  and  includes  a  church,  armory,  etc. 

The  Picture-gallery  is  situated  in  the 
Alexandrinenstrasse.  There  are  nearly 
eight  hundred  pictures,  principally  of  the 
French  and  Dutch  schools. 

The  Antiquiirittm  contains  a  fine  collec- 
tion of  prehistoric  remains,  arranged  by 
the  Mecklenburg  Archaeological  Society. 

Near  the  Theater  is  a  bronze  statue  to 
599 


STKALSUXD. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


RCGEN. 


Paul  Frederick,  erected  in  1849.  There  is 
also  an  obelisk  in  granite  in  the  palace 
gardens  to  the  memory  of  the  Mecklen- 
burg soldiers  who  fell  in  the  revolution  of 
1348.  The  principal  buildings  arc  an  ar- 
senal, ducal  stables,  and  artillery  bar- 
racks. 

At  the  Kleinen  junction  there  is  a  branch 
line  which  leads  in  half  an  hour  to  Wis- 
mar,  a  Baltic  sea-port,  containing  13,2.00 
inhabitants.  Hotel,  Stadt  Hamburg.  There 
are  several  churches  of  no  particular  im- 
portance. The  Furstenhof  is  one  of  the 
former  residences  of  the  Grand-Duke  of 
Mecklenburg ;  the  building  is  now  used 
for  municipal  purposes. 

Passing  Kleinen,  Blankenburg,  and  But- 
zow,  near  which  is  the  large  penitentiary 
of  Dreibergen ;  whence  to  Rostock  in  50  min- 
utes. This  is  the  most  populous  town  in 
the  duchy,  situated  on  the  River  Warnow, 
and  contains  32,000  inhabitants.  Hotels, 
Stadt  Russia  and  Stadt  Hamburg.  It  pos- 
sesses the  largest  commercial  trade  in  the 
Baltic. 

The  Marienkirche  is  a  fine  edifice  of  the 
13th  century.  A  stone  in  the  church  marks 
the  spot  where  the  learned  Swedish  embas- 
sador  Grotius  was  buried.  He  died  here 
on  his  way  to  the  French  court. 

The  Rathhaus  is  surmounted  with  seven 
pinnacles,  and  is  a  most  interesting  speci- 
men of  architecture.  Rostock  is  the  birth- 
place of  General  Blucher,  of  Waterloo  no- 
toriety. The  house  is  shown  where  he 
was  born  in  1742.  Blucher  crossed  the 
Rhine  at  Caub  on  New-year's-da}-,  1814, 
in  his  72d  year,  and  defeated  Napoleon 
at  La  Rothiere  on  February  1st,  and  on 
March  31st  carried  Montmartre  at  Paris 
by  storm.  He  was  there  created  Marshal 
and  Prince  of  Wahlstadt  by  the  King  of 
Prussia.  A  bronze  statue  is  placed  in  the 
square  named  after  him  Bliicherplatz. 

There  is  a  steamer  every  hour  during 
the  season  to  Warnemiinde,  a  watering-place 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Warnow.  Schnellpost 
daily  to  Str.ilsund  in  10  hours. 

Stralfund.  Hotels,  Giebel  and  Jln/itilii- 
burff.  This  important  town,  a  fortress  of 
the  second  class,  is  entirely  surrounded  by 
water,  and  contains  26,731  inhabitants — 
nearly  one  thousand  less  than  it  did  ten 
years  ago.  It  is  situated  on  the  Stnila- 
sund,  a  strait  which  separates  the  island  of 
Rugen  from  the  mainland,  and  is  onlv  ap- 
600 


preached  by  three  bridges.  A  stone  built 
into  the  wall  near  the  Frankenthor  bears 
this  inscription :  "  Dec.  22, 1715,  Sweden's 
king,  Charles  XII.,  had  here  his  usual 
night- quarters  when  Stralsund  was  be- 
sieged by  three  kings,  Prussia,  Poland,  and 
Denmark." 

The  fortified  island  of  Diinholni.  about 
one  third  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  rises  about 
1000  feet  above  the  Ittijlrltahn,  and  con- 
tains the  Prussian  marine  depot,  with  a 
harbor  for  gun-boats,  magazines,  etc. 

Stralsund  was  founded  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  13th  century,  and  was  at  one 
time  one  of  the  most  important  towns  of 
the  Hanseatic  League.  In  1648  it  was 
awarded  to  Sweden  by  the  Peace  of  West- 
phalia. At  the  Treaty  of  Paris,  in  1815, 
it  was  adjudged  to  Prussia. 

The  Rathhaus,  with  its  seven  pinnacles, 
is  a  rather  striking  object  of  antiquity.  It 
contains  a  museum  and  a  library.  The 
churches  of  St.  Nicholas  and  St.  Mary  are 
interesting  edifices,  but  contain  nothing  of 
importance.  A  fine  view  of  the  town,  har- 
bor, and  surroundings  may  be  had  from  the 
tower  of  the  latter. 

In  1628  Wallenstein  swore  to  take  the 
city  of  Stralsund,  "  though  it  were  fastened 
by  chains  to  heaven."  His  boast,  how- 
ever, was  never  destined  to  be  fulfilled,  as 
he  was  obliged  to  raise  the  siege  with  a 
loss  of  twelve  thousand  men. 

Major  Schill,  a  distinguished  Prussian 
officer  of  Hussars,  who  took  up  arms  in 
1808  in  the  hope  of  freeing  Germany  from 
the  French,  retreated  with  his  regiment  to 
Stralsund,  and  was  killed  in  the  street  in 
attempting  a  sortie.  The  spot  where  he 
fell  is  indicated  by  a  stone  in  the  street 
opposite  No.  67  Fahrstrasse. 

Steamers  three  times  each  week  in  the 
summer  to  Malmo,  in  Sweden,  in  eight 
hours,  thence  by  steamer  or  rail  to  Copen- 
hagen. 

Stralsund  to  Berlin,  6J  h. ;  fare,  18  m. 

Ferry  across  the  strait  in  ten  minutes  to 
Rugen,  the  largest  island  belonging  to  Ger- 
many. It  is  separated  only  by  the  narrow 
strait  of  GeUen  from  Pomerania,  and  is  in- 
cluded in  that  province.  From  1648  to  l*l:» 
it  belonged  to  Sweden,  at  which  time  it 
was  ceded  to  Prussia.  It  contains  440 
square  miles,  and  abounds  in  romantic 
scenerj-.  Its  sea-bathing  resorts  are  nu- 
merous, and  it  is  much  frequented  by 


PCTBUS. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BREMEN. 


visitors  from  all  parts  of  Northern  Ger-  ' 
many. 

I'utlus  is  one  of  the  principal  places  on 
tlic  islami.  and  a  noted  watering- placa^ 
founded  by  the  proprietor,  the  Prince  of 
Putbus.  Hotels.  HfV-iVm  and  //.  d<'  X»nl. 

Bergen.  Hotel,  l'r'n,z  ron  J'reussen.  This 
is  the  principal  town,  and  contains  3600  in- 
habitants. A  quarter  of  an  hour  from 
Bergen  is  Rugard,  nearly  500  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  from  whence  there  is  a 
magnificent  view. 

•  'xnkammer  is  the  finest  point  on  the 
bland,  and  on  Sundays  and  holidays  the 
last  arrival  cnn  hardly  ever  secure  accom- 
modation. Here  the  rugged  chalk  prom- 
ontorv  rises  400  feet  perpendicularly  from 
the  sea.  A  staircase  of  six  hundred  steps 
leads  from  the  shore  to  the  summit,  which 
is  called  the  Konifjsgtuhl,  it  being  the  spot 
whence  Charles  XII.  of  Sweden  witnessed 
a  naval  contest  between  the  Danes  and 
.  Hod-hot  charcoal  is  thrown  down 
from  the  cliff,  and  illuminations  of  Bengal 
lights  frequently  take  place  for  the  amuse- 
ment of  the  visitors. 

Diligences  run  in  different  directions  be- 
tween the  most  prominent  places  on  the 
island. 

Two-horse  carriages  cost  about  12  marks 
per  day. 


ROUTE  No.  150. 

Berlin  to  firemen.  Time,  G  h.  40  m. ; 
faro,  first  class,  30 i  marks;  second  class, 
22  marks  70  pf. 

Berlin  to  Stendal,  1  h.  34  in.  (See  Route 
145). 

At  Ulaen  junction,  two  hours  from  Sten- 
dal,  there  are  some  immense  blocks  of 
stone  covered  with  a  peculiar  roof,  sup- 
posed to  be  of  Druidical  origin.  The  line 
from  Hanover  to  Bremen  hen;  crosses  the 
track.  The  lino  now  follows  the  River 
Weser  and  arrives  at 

Bremen.  —  Population,  s:V200.  Hotels, 
nillm:in's  J/iittl,  a  first-class  house  on  the 

iest  part  of  the  Quai.  lately  completely 

novated  by  the  proprietors.  Mcs>i>.  Hill- 
and  Eberbach.  Bremen  was  former- 


ly an  independent  and  free  city  of  the 
empire,  and  only  second  to  Hamburg  as 
•  of  German  commerce.  It  was 
joined  to  Prussia  in  IxtiT,  and  is  now 
garrisoned  by  troops  of  the  German  Em- 
pire. The  greater  number  of  German 
emigrants  for  America  embark  at  this 
port.  It  is  built  on  both  banks  of  the 
SVeser,  about  40  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  and  its  many  well-preserved 
buildings  of  the  Middle  Ages  convey  some 
idea  of  the  former  importance  of  the  city. 
Bremen  is  principally  indebted  for  its  great 
commercial  success  to  the  construction  of 
its  port  orharbor,  called  Bremerhofen,  which 
was  opened  in  1830 :  it  now  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  11,000  inhabitants,  and  is  rapidly 
gaining  in  importance.  There  is  an  Au»- 
irund'  r<:r  Hints,  erected  in  1849,  capable  of 
receiving  three  thousand  departing  emi- 
grants, and  feeding  double  that  number 
from  its  kitchen.  There  are  several  good 
hotels :  Beerman  and  Stein/toff".  A  visit 
should  be  made  to  one  of  the  magnificent 
steamers  of  the  \orih  Germ  in  Lloyd  Com- 
pany, some  of  which  are  always  in  port. 
This  company,  which  runs  steamers  twice  a 
week  to  New  York,  stopping  at  Southamp- 
ton, has  the  finest  reputation  in  the  world 
for  the  manner  in  which  their  splendid  fleet 
is  conducted.  Tickets  to  visit  the  ships  may 
be  procured  at  the  office  of  the  company. 
The  fortifications  of  the  city  having  been 
destroyed,  the  grounds  on  which  they  stood 
have  been  laid  out  as  public  gardens,  with 
rivulets  and  sheltered  walks.  It  lias  a  num- 
ber of  manufactures,  the  principal  of  which 
are  those  of  snuff  and  cigars — the  manufac- 
tories of  the  latter  are  the  largest  in  the 
world- — besides  numerous  distilleries  and 
breweries,  linen  and  woolen  factories.  sugar 
refineries,  tanneries,  soap  and  oil  works.  It 
exports  large  quantities  of  linen  and  wool- 
en goods,  provisions,  and  grain.  The  sit- 
uation of  Bremen  renders  her  the  prin- 
cipal emporium  of  Hanover,  Brunswick. 
Hesse,  and  other  countries  trarersed  by 
the  Weser,  in  consequence  of  which  she 
has  a  large  and  increasing  trade.  The 
city  is  governed  by  a  senate,  called  /-»/<• 
\Viithdt  (''The  Wisdom").  The  princi- 
pal buildings  arc.  the  Cnthfdra1,  built  in 
lliiO.  The  interior  has  been  restored  and 
fitted  up  for  a  Protestant  congregation. 
Its  organ  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Germany. 
The  pulpit  was  presented  by  Queen  (Jims' 
601 


BREMEN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


OLDENBURG. 


tina  of  Sweden.  Notice  the  stained-glass 
portraits  of  Luther  and  Melanchthon,  exe- 
cuted at  Nuremberg.  The  Bleikeller  un- 
der the  cathedral  possesses  the  peculiar 
property  of  preventing  decomposition,  and 
contains  several  old  mummies,  some  over 
four  hundred  years  old.  The  Museum  is 
situated  a  little  north  of  the  cathedral  on 
the  same  Platz,  and  contains  a  good  nat- 
ural-history collection  and  an  ethnographic 
collection;  used  also  as  a  club.  The 
church  of  St.  Ansgar  has  a  spire  325  feet  in 
height.  The  new  Town-hall,  former!}'  the 
archiepiscopal  palace,  is  a  building  of  the 
same  elaborate  character  as  the  town  halls 
of  Bruges  and  other  cities  of  the  Nether- 
lands. The  Exchange,  or  Neue  Borse, 
built  in  the  Gothic  style  between  1864 
and  1867.  There  are  six  allegorical  stat- 
ues on  the  western  front ;  the  grand  hall 
is  most  imposing  and  beautiful!}'  deco- 
rated ;  the  Exchange  opens  at  1  o'clock ; 
strangers  admitted  only  with  members. 
Beneath  the  old  town -hall,  built  in  1405, 
are  the  famous  wine  -  cellars,  containing 
vats  filled  with  hock,  said  to  be  over  100 
years  old.  In  one  compartment  of  this 
cellar  are  some  casks  called  "  Rose  and  the 
12  Apostles!"  It  is  said  the  hock  con- 
tained in  them  is  150  years  old,  and  was 
formerly  sold  for  two  dollars  a  glass! 

On  the  Djvishaide  stands  the  bronze 
statue  of  Gustavus  Adolphus,  modeled  by 
the  Swedish  sculptor  Fogelberg,  and  cast 
in  Munich.  It  was  intended  for  the  city 
of  Gottenburg ;  the  vessel  in  which  it  was 
conveyed  was  wrecked,  but  it  was  rescued 
by  boatmen  from  Heligoland.  The  statue 
was  purchased  by  some  merchants  of  Bre- 
men and  presented  to  the  city,  and  erected 
here  in  1856. 

Close  by  the  statue  is  the  Kiinstlerverein, 
or  artists'  club,  a  nice  Gothic  building  late- 
ly restored.  It  contains  concert-rooms, 
restaurant,  etc.  Strangers  must  be  in- 
troduced by  a  member.  There  is  also  a 
very  good  club  called  the  Union,  where 
strangers  can  be  introduced. 

In  front  of  the  Rathhaus  stands  the 
Rolandssaule,  a  colossal  figure  of  a  man 
in  stone,  eighteen  feet  high,  erected  in 
1412.  It  was  the  palladium  of  the  city. 
In  his  left  hand  the  figure  bears  a  shield 
with  the  imperial  eagle.  In  his  right  hand 
he  holds  a  drawn  sword,  and  at  his  feet  are 
the  head  and  hand  of  a  criminal,  referring 
602 


to  the  extent  of  power  enjoyed  by  the  mu- 
nicipal  authorities. 

The  Kuivtthalle  is  a  large  building  near 
the  Osterthor,  containing  a  fair  collection 
of  modern  pictures  and  some  sculptures. 

The  Museum  of  Natural  History  should 
be  visited.  The  collection  of  African  birds 
is  superb. 

At  the  Biirgerpark  some  good  concerts 
are  given ;  there  is  a  restaurant,  and  the 
place  is  much  frequented  by  the  citizens. 

In  the  new  quarter,  to  the  west,  there 
are  numerous  very  beautiful  residences. 
At  the  market  which  bears  his  name  a 
bronze  statue  was  erected  in  1865  to  the 
poet  Korner,  by  Deneys,  a  Bremen  sculp- 
tor. There  is  also  a  monument  in  Carrara 
marble  erected  to  Olbers,  the  astronomer, 
who  discovered  the  planets  Pallas  and 
Vesta ;  it  is  by  Steinhauser.  Gibers  was 
born  and  died  in  Bremen.  The  prome- 
nades in  the  vicinity  of  this  monument  are 
very  beautiful. 

Bremen  to  Paris.  Time,  19  h.  5  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  78  marks  30  pf. 

Bremen  to  Berlin.  Time,  6  h.  45  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  30  marks  70  pf. 

Bremen  to  New  York  (North  German 
Lloyd).  Fare,  first  class,  §120. 

Bremen  to  Baltimore  (North  German 
Lloyd).  Fare,  first  class,  $100. 

Bremen  to  Xew  Orleans  (North  German 
Lloyd).  Fare,  first  class,  $135. 

Bremen  to  Hanover.  Time,  2  h.  37  m. ; 
fare,  first  class.  10  marks  20  pf. ;  second 
class,  6  marks  7  g. 

Bremen  to  Cologne,  via  Osnabruck,  in  6 
h.  50  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  express,  30  marks 
20  pf. ;  second  class,  22  marks  60  pf. 

Bremen  to  \\~ilhelmshafeH.  Time,  2  h. 
50  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  6  marks  7  pf. ;  sec- 
ond class,  4  marks  1  pf. 

From  Bremen  an  excursion  should  be 
made  to  Wilhelmshafen  and  Emden. 

From  Bremen  to  Oldenburg,  four  trains 
daily,  in  one  hour.  This  town  is  the  cap- 
ital of  the  grand  -  duchy.  Principal  ho- 
tels, De  Russie  and  Erbr/rosshersog.  A 
quiet  and  agreeable  town,  situated  on  the 
Hunte,  with  13,400  inhabitants,  surround- 
ed by  handsome  promenades,  which  have 
superseded  the  former  ramparts.  The 
duchy  became  united  to  Prussia  in  1867. 

The  principal  building  is  the  Grand- 
Duke's  Palace,  which  contains  a  small  col- 
lection of  modern  paintings.  Close  to  the 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


STETTIN-. 


palace  is  the  church  of  St.  Lambert.  The 
A  nifti.-iteum,a.  handsome  edifice,  contains  the 
picture  -  gallery  of  the  grand  -  duke.  The 
ground  floor  is  used  for  temporary  exhi- 
bitions. The  gallery  is  open  week  days 
from  11  to  2,  and  on  Sundays  from  12  to  2. 
Among  the  principal  pictures,  notice  No. 
KS.  the  Virgin,  by  Miirillo;  89,  the  Infant 
Cardinal,  liy  Velasquez;  82.  Venus  and  Love, 
.ind  a  young  Girl,  by  Paul  Veronese  :  129. 
Peasants,  by  Tenters ;  107,  St.  Francis  of 
A^-i.-i,  by  Rubens ;  169,  Landscape,  by 
lltmbrandt ;  106,  a  marine  piece,  by  Back- 

llfgMB, 

From  Oldenburg  to  Wilhelmshafen  the 
country  is  flat  and  uninteresting,  passing 
Vurel.  a  pleasant  manufacturing  town,  near 
which  i>  tlu-  sea-bathing  place  of  Dangnst, 
quite  an  inexpensive  place,  with  small  Kur- 
saal  and  all  the  appendages. 

\\'ilhrlinsh<ifm. —  Hotel. Demi*gnflf.  This 
arsenal,  dockyard,  and  military  post  is  sit- 
uated close  to  the  mouth  of  the  Weser,  on 
the  west.  The  land  was  purchased  from 
the  Duke  of  Oldenburg  in  1854,  and  the 
port  opened  in  18(59. 

The  docks  have  been  excavated  from 
the  low  swampy  land,  and  are  protected 
seaward  by  granite  dikes.  There  are 
three  dry-docks  for  the  building  and  re- 
pairing of  iron-clads.  The  immense  dock 
gates  are  worthy  of  attention.  The  gov- 
ernment has  already  spent  forty  millions 
of  marks  in  the  construction  of  these  work?. 
The  harbor  is  considered  so  impregnable 
that  it  has  been  called  the  "  Sevastopol" 
of  the  North  Sea. 

During  the  French  war'  the  Prussian 
fleet  lay  here  in  perfect  safety. 

At  Oldenburg  there  is  a  branch  railway 
through  Leer  to  Emden.  Time,  1  h.  53 
m. :  fare,  8  marks  40  pf. 

Leer. — Hotel,  Prim  von  Oraniem.  A 
small  commercial  town  of  8800  inhabit- 
ants, situated  in  the  most  fertile  part  of 
tlio  (M fries! and,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Ems  and  I.eda.  The  line  of  Oldenburg 
here  joins  that  of  Westphalia  for  Emden, 
one  of  the  most  animated  sea -ports  in 
Northern  Germany.  Hotels.  Go/dene  Sonne. 
and  Prim  von  Preussen.  Population  13.ni MI. 
It  was  formerly  a  free  city  of  the  empire. 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Ems.  now  it 
is  distant  one  half  hour's  walk  from  that 
river.  The  town  is  thoroughly  Dutch  in 
its  appearance,  dikes,  canals,  etc.  It  has 


suffered  considerably  from  inundations,  and 
in  1826  the  water  remained  for  three  months 
twelve  feet  high  in  its  streets. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville,  a  building  in  the 
Renaissance  style,  contains  a  good  col- 
lection of  armor  and  ancient  fire-arms. 


ROUTE  No.  151. 

Berlin  to  Danzig,  via  Stettin.  Time,  11 
h.  4  m. ;  fare,  tirst  class,  41  marks  1  pf. ; 
second  class,  30  marks  7  pf. 

Berlin  to  Danzig,  via  Cuttrin.  Time,  9 
h.  50  m.  (quickest  route);  fare,  4L  marks. 
(See  Route  No.  152.) 

Xeuslftdt,  a  manufacturing  town  of  3600 
inhabitants,  one  hour  from  Berlin.  [There 
is  a  branch  road  eighteen  miles  to  Wriezin, 
6400  inhabitants,  and  situated  on  a  branch 
of  the  Oder.] 

Aiir):rmiinde,  an  old  town  of  5700  inhab- 
itants. A  line  here  branches  off  to  the  left, 
passing  through  Pasewalk  to  Stralsund 
(see  Route  152). 

Stettin. — Hotel  de  Pi-usse,  du  Xord,  and 
Deutsches  Halts.  This  is  a  flourishing 
commercial  city  and  first-class  fortress. 
It  contains  76,250  inhabitants,  in  addition 
to  a  garrison  of  6000  men.  It  came  into 
possession  of  the  Swedes  after  the  death 
of  the  last  Duke  «f  Pomerania  in  1637. 
In  1720  it  was  transferred  to  Prussia  by 
the  Treaty  of  Stockholm. 

It  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Oder,  but  connected  with  the  suburb  Las~ 
tadia  by  four  bridges. 

The  quay  of  the  city  presents  a  most 
animated  appearance,  the  water  being  suf- 
ficiently deep,  16£  feet,  for  vessels  of  large 
size  ;  those  drawing  more  water  stop  at 
Xtrirtemiinde,  on  the  island  of  Usedotn. 

Stettin  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of 
Pomerania,  and  one  of  the  principal  com- 
mercial ports  of  Prussia,  being  the  outlet 
for  all  the  manufactures  of  Silesia,  and  the 
depot  for  all  foreign  goods  required.  Its 
imports  amount  to  about  150  millions  of 
marks,  and  its  exports  about  120  millions. 
It  is  largely  employed  in  manufacturing, 
refining,  and  distilling.  There  are  few 
603 


BELGKAD. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


DANZIG. 


curiosities  to  be  seen.  The  Old  Castle,  the 
former  residence  of  the  dukes  before  they 
became  extinct,  commands  the  city,  and  is 
now  used  by  the  municipal  a  thorities. 

In  the  Konigsplatz  there  is  a  marble 
statue  of  Frederick  the  Great,  by  Schadow; 
and  near  the  theatre  is  another  of  Fred- 
erick William  III.,  by  Drake. 

In  the  new  portion  of  the  town  sever- 
al fine  public  buildings  have  been  lately 
erected. 

The  Logengartcn  is  outside  the  gates,  and 
is  the  principal  promenade  for  the  fashion- 
able society  iu  the  afternoons. 

Stettin  was  the  birthplace  of  Catharine 
the  Great  of  Russia,  also  of  the  Rusdan 
Empress  Maria,  wife  of  Paul. 

Between  Stettin  and  the  Baltic  two  isl- 
ands are  formed  by  the  River  Oder — Usedom 
and  Wollin.    On  the  first  is  situated  Sicine- 
miinde,  the  outport  of  Stettin,  an  important 
place  of  7000  inhabitants,  with  sea-baths  j 
about  a  mile  distant.     The  beach  is  very 
fine,  and  it  is  much  frequented  by  the  cit-  ! 
izens  of  Stettin.    It  was  on  this  island  that  ' 
Gustavus  Adolphus  landed,  June  24,  1630, 
with  an  army  of  17,000  Protestant  soldiers. 

From  Stettin  to  Danzig  there  are  numer- 
ous small  towns  of  very  trifling  importance ;  | 
time,  9  h.  5  m.  (uninteresting). 

Stargard  junction,  the  chief  town  in 
Farther  Pomerania,  is  situated  on  the  river  j 
Ihna,  and  contains  17,000  inhabitants. 
The  line  here  continues  on  to  the  right  to 
Posen  and  Breslau.  The  line  to  Danzig 
turns  to  the  northeast,  and  at  Belgrad,  a  • 
town  of  5000  inhabitants,  there  is  a  branch 
line  (21  miles)  which  leads  to  the  sea-port 
town  of  Colbery.  Hotel  de  Prusse.  Pop- 
ulation 13,500.  This  town  is  known  by 
its  courageous  defense  against  the  French 
for  six  months,  1806-1807.  There  is  a 
very  fine  Rathhaus,  recent!}'  erected,  before 
which  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Frederick  Will- 
iam III. 

The  Marienkirche  is  a  five-aisled  Gothic 
structure,  dating  from  the  14th  century. 
It  is  in  possession  of  some  remarkable  an- 
tiquities. 

Coslin,  a  town  on  the  Baltic,  nearly  three 
hours  from  Stettin.  Hotel,  Diirre.  It 
contains  14,000  inhabitants,  and  is  finely 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Gottenberg,  a  hill 
450  feet  high,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a  mon- 
ument to  the  memory  of  the  Pomeranians 
who  fell  in  the  war  of  the  allies  against  the 
G04 


French  in  1813.  There  is  a  statue  of  Fred- 
crick  William  I.  in  the  market-place,  erect- 
ed in  IS-M. 

Schlace  junction,  a  town  of  4000  inhab- 
itants. A  branch  road  turns  west  to  the 
sea-bathing  place  of 

It i'< gen tc aide,  and  to  the  southeast  to 
Neu-Stettin, 

Stolpe,  a  town  of  14,000  inhabitants  (Ho- 
tel, Muller), 

Lauenburg,  Zoppet,  and 

Danzig.  —  Hotels,  Englisches  llaus  and 
Berlin.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  of 
Germany,  a  fortress  of  the  first  class,  and 
one  of  the  principal  sea-ports  of  Prussia. 
It  is  situated  on  two  arms  of  the  Vistula, 
about  five  miles  above  its  entrance  into  the 
Gulf  of  Danzig,  and  contains,  with  its  gar- 
rison of  7000  men,  90,000  inhabitants.  It 
was  a  leading  member  of  the  Hanseatic 
League,  and  a  free  city  of  the  empire. 

At  the  second  partition  of  Poland,  in  1793, 
it  was  awarded  to  Prussia.  It  was  stormed 
and  taken  by  the  French  under  Marshal 
Lefebre  in  1807,  for  which  victory  Napo- 
leon created  him  Duke  of  Danzig.  The 
city  is  protected  on  the  east  by  the  forts 
Bischofsberg  and  Hagelsberg ;  the  entrance 
to  the  river  by  the  fortress  of  Weischsel- 
munde  ;  and  the  island  called  the  Holm  iu 
the  Vistula  is  equally  fortified. 

The  Cathedral,  or  Marienkirche,  is  one 
of  the  finest  ecclesiastical  monuments  on 
the  borders  of  the  Baltic.  It  dates  from 
the  14th  century,  and  commands  the  city 
like  a  fortress.  It  is  330  feet  long  and  112 
wide;  the  transept,  212,  and  93  feet  high. 
Around  its  interior  are  placed  fifty  chapels, 
originally  intended  as  burial-places  for  the 
principal  citizens.  The  high  altar  is  a 
Gothic  work,  executed  in  1517,  and  orna- 
mented with  beautiful  wood-carving  repre- 
senting the  life  of  the  Virgin.  Behind  this 
altar  there  is  a  splendid  window  presented 
by  Frederick  William  IV.  But  the  gem 
of  the  church  and  of  the  city  is  the  picture 
of  the  "Last  Judgment,"  originally  at- 
tributed to  Van  Dyck,  but  since  its  restora- 
tion to  J.  Mending.  The  exterior  portraits 
are  by  Vim  Eyck  and  Van  der  Goes. 

According  to  tradition,  this  picture  was 
destined  for  the  Pope,  but  the  vessel  on 
which  it  was  consigned  was  taken  by  pi- 
rates on  its  way  from  Bruges  to  Roisie. 
The  pirate  ship  was  captured  by  a  Danzig 
vessel  and  the  picture  retaken.  It  made 


DANZIG. 


[THE  E.MPI1IE  OF  GERMANY,  j 


ZDSSOW. 


the  usual  journey  to  Paris  in  1807,  but  was 
returned  lifter  the  Peace.  Frederick  Will- 
i:un  III.  wished  to  retain  it  in  Berlin,  and 
offered  the  city  120,000  marks  for  it,  but 
the  offer  was  refused. 

The  Langenmarkt  and  the  Langgasse  are 
the  two  principal  streets,  and  run  the  en- 
tire length  of  the  town.  They  are  rich  in 
houses  of  the  most  fantastic  and  beautiful 
construction. 

The  Rathhaus  is  situated  in  the  Langen- 
markt,  and  is  a  line  example  of  the  archi- 
tecture of  the  14th  centuiV.  The  interior 
has  been  restored.  The  Around  floors  are 
devoted  to  summer  and  winter  saloons  of 
reunion.  The  Ri-mpttr  g;iliery  is  used  for 
the  meetings  of  the  municipal  council. 

Close  to  the  Kathhaus  is  the  Fountain 
qfXeptune,  cast  in  Holland  in  1633.  It  is 
the  work  of  Adrian  de  I'ries. 

The  Artushnf,  or  Junkerhof,  is  an  edi- 
fice of  simple  exterior,  dating  from  the  16th 
century.  Here  the  merchants  of  the  city, 
formerly  styled  "  Stadtjunker,"  united  to 
transact  their  business.  The  great  hall  on 
the  ground  floor  is  now  the  Exchange  (hours 
11  to  2).  It  was  formerly  the  place  of  meet- 
ing of  the  corporations  and  guilds.  It  is 
decorated  in  a  truly  original  manner  with 
pictures,  carvings,  and  armor.  The  laws 
of  the  merchants,  in  rhyme,  are  still  hung 
up.  Among  the  pictures  are  a  Last  Judg- 
ment, by  A.  Mailer,  a  pupil  of  Raphael, 
and  a  Madonna,  by  fitech. 

In  the  centre  of  the  'iall  is  a  marble 
statue  of  Augustus  III.  of  Poland. 

The  Ar.<fnu'  is  situated  in  the  Lang- 
gasse, and  is  an  interesting  building. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  to  Xm- 
fithrwas.'ser,  the  fortified  port  of  Danzig. 
It  is  four  miles  distant,  and  steamers  leave 
ewry  hour.  Near  it  are  bathing-places, 
surrounded  by  gardens  and  promenades. 

There  are  numerous  other  excursions. 
Among  others  that  to  Jo&amtitberff,  from 
the  top  of  which  a  magnificent  view  may 
be  enjoyed  of  the  city,  harbor,  and  the  dis- 
tant coasts. 

At  Oltrit,  five  miles  from  Danzig,  at  the 
foot  of  the  f'ir!.<l>i-rrf.  stands  the  suppressed 
('•invent  of  Ollru.  The  church  is  a  fine 
building,  around  the  choir  of  which  hang 
portraits  of  the  Kings  of  Pnhnd  and  Dukes 
of  Pomerauia.  The  Peace  l>"tween  Sweden 
and  Poland  was  signed  here  in  1660. 

I  Fahrenheit,  the  inventor  of  the  thermom- 
VOL.  II.— D 


eter,  was  born  in  Danzig  toward  the  close 
of  the  17th  century,  and  died  here  in  1736. 
He  perfected  the  thermometer  in  1727, 
using  mercury  instead  of  spirits  of  wine, 
and  forming  a  scale  which  is  universally 
adopted  in  the  United  States  and  Great 
Britain. 

The  bathing- place  of  Brosen  can  be 
reached  in  about  one  hour  from  Danzig — 
45  minutes  by  steamer  and  20  by  diligence. 

Steamers  leave  Danzig  twice  a  week  for 
Konigsljcrg,  in  18  hours,  and  for  Stettin 
weekly,  in  27  hours. 

Danzig  to  Berlin.  Time,  11  h.  13  m. ; 
fare,  41  marks. 

Danzig  to  Stettin.  Time,  8  h.  36  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  32  marks  70  pf. 

Danzig  to  Konigsberg.  Time,  4  h.  27  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  15  marks  50  pf. 


ROUTE  No.  152. 

Stettin  to  Stralsund,  via  Pasewalk.  Time, 
3  h.  35  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  10  marks  90  pf. ; 
second  class,  7  marks. 

Stettin  is  described  in  Route  151. 

Pasewalk  is  the  junction  of  the  lines  to 
Stettin,  Stralsund,  Lubeck,  and  Schwerin. 
Hotels,  Stuthmann  and  Kronprinz.  This  is 
an  old  town  of  8000  inhabitants,  retaining 
its  walls  and  towers. 

Anclam  is  a  small  harbor  containing  13,- 
000  inhabitants,  on  the  river  Peine,  which 
was  formerly  the  line  between  Prussia  and 
Sweden.  Some  of  the  houses  an;  fine  spec- 
imens of  the  Hanseatic  architecture  of  the 
Baltic  towns.  The  tower  of  the  Steinthor 
is  especially  deserving  of  notice. 

The  Peinc  commences  here  to  be  navi- 
gable. 

Two  miles  outside  the  gate  may  be  seen 
an  ancient  watch-tower,  erected  to  protect 
the  town  against  the  Counts  of  Schwerin. 

Diligences  daily  in  5  h.  30  m.  to  the 
baths  nf  Swinemunde.  (See  Route  151.) 

Zitnnfiir,  whence  a  branch  line  to\\'olyast, 
an  old  commercial  town,  situated  on  the 
Peine,  opposite  the  island  of  Usedom.  It 
contains  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  an  ancient 
seat  of  the  Dukes  of  Pomerania. 
605 


GKEIFSWALDE. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MARIENBURG. 


Greifswalde,  a  sea-port  town  of  17,500  in- 
habitants. Hotel,  Deutsches  Haus.  It  con- 
tains a  university,  founded  in  145G,  with 
about  350  students.  There  is  a  monument 
in  the  Universitatsplatz  commemorating 
the  400th  anniversary  of  the  foundation  of 
this  institution.  In  the  vicinity  of  Markt- 
platz  are  some  fine  examples  of  picturesque 
gabled  houses. 

Near  Greifswalde  are  some  important 
salt-works.  The  town  is  connected  to  the 
< ,  I'i'ifswalder  Boden,  an  arm  of  the  Baltic, 
by  the  small  river  Hylde,  near  the  mouth 
of  which  are  the  ruins  of  the  monastery 
of  Eldena,  which  was  destroyed  by  the 
Swedes. 

Steamers  daily  during  the  season  to 
Lauterbach  (the  Baths  of  Putbus),  on  the 
island  of  Riigen.  Fare,  5  marks. 

Miltzow  Station. — Diligences  daily,  dur- 
ing the  season,  to  Stahlbrode,  thence  by 
ferry  to  Gleiwitz  and  Garz  to  Putbus. 

Stralsund,  described  in  Route  148. 


ROUTE  No.  153. 

Berlin  to  Kdnigsberg,via  Custrin,  Schnei- 
demiihl,  Bromberg,  and  Marienburg,  or  vii 
Danzig. 

Time,  11  h.  48  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  47 
marks  20  pf. ;  second  class,  35  marks  40  pf. 
Ordinary  trains  in  17  h. 

This  is  the  mail  route,  via  Berlin,  of  Paris 
and  St.  Petersburg.  Berlin  to  St.  Peters- 
burg, in  45 J  h. ;  fare,  67  m.  20  pf.  to  Eyat- 
kuhnen  (frontier,  change  cars,  and  customs), 
thence  25  roubles  20  cop.  Sleeping-car  to 
Eyatkuhnen  (see  Route  186,  Vol.  III.),  to 
Dirschau,  11.15  P.M. ;  fare,  18  marks. 

Castrin. — Hotel,  Kronprinz.  This  town, 
which  is  a  strong  fortress  of  the  third  class, 
is  completely  surrounded  by  marshes,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Warthe  and  Oder. 
It  contains  10.500  inhabitants.  Frederick 
the  Great  was  imprisoned  here  by  his  fa- 
ther when  crown -prince,  and  was  com- 
pelled by  his  imperious  father  to  look  on 
from  a  room  in  the  castle  while  his  friend 
Lieutenant  Von  Katte  was  being  behead- 
ed, it  having  been  discovered  that  he  in- 
tended to  assist  Frederick  in  his  flight  to 
London.  Six  miles  north  of  Custrin  Fred- 
crick  the  Great,  with  30,000  troops,  defeat- 
ed the  Russian  army,  50,000  strong,  in  1758. 
GOG 


Two  hours  and  twenty  minutes  from  Ber- 
lin is 

Landsberg,  a  busy  town  of  18,500  inhab- 
itants, situated  on  the  Warthe.  Hotel, 
i  Kdnig  von  Preussen. 

At  the  station  Kreuz  the  line  from  Stet- 
tin to  Posen  crosses  the  line  to  Konigsberg. 

Schneidemuhl  junction,  the  direct  line 
continues  northeast  toward  Danzig.  An- 
other road,  which  makes  a  detour  by  Brom- 
berg,  continues  to  the  east.  Four  lines  in- 
tersect at  Bromberg.  Hotel,  Moritz.  Al- 
though containing  27,000  inhabitants,  there 
is  nothing  to  detain  the  visitor.  There  is 
a  monument  to  Frederick  the  Great,  erect- 
ed in  the  market-place  in  1861,  the  town 
being  indebted  to  him  for  connecting  the 
rivers  Brahe  and  Netze  by  means  of  a  ca- 
!nul. 

Dirschau  junction  (change  cars  for  Dan- 
zig) possesses  a  magnificent  railroad  bridge 
half  a  mile  in  length,  built  at  a  cost  of  •*2,- 
000,000.  This  town  was  the  birthplace  of 
Forster,  who  accompanied  Captain  Cook  in 
his  second  voyage  round  the  world. 

Marienburg,  an  ancient  and  celebrated 
town  situated  on  the  River  Nogat.  It  con- 
tains 8000  inhabitants.  Hotels,  KiJtiit/  n,n 
Preussen  and  J/ochmetsler.  The  town  is 
particularly  noted  as  being  the  seat  of  the 
once  powerful  Teutonic  Knights,  to  whom 
this  country  was  ceded  in  the  13th  century 
by  the  King  of  Poland.  These  knights, 
after  a  continuous  war  of  fifty  years,  suc- 
ceeded in  subduing  the  pagan  and  barbar- 
ous Prussians  who  then  inhabited  the  sur- 
rounding territory.  The  Schloss,  or  Pal- 
ace of  the  Grand-Masters,  is  an  imposing 
edifice  in  the  Gothic  style,  divided  into 
three  portions.  The  Hochschloss  was  the 
original  castle  of  the  order,  and  dates  from 
the  13th  century.  It  contains  the  church 
of  St.  Mary,  with  the  prie-dieux  of  the 
knights  and  the  "golden  gate."  Beneath 
it  is  the  chapel  of  St.  Anna,  with  the  burial- 
vault  of  the  grand-masters. 

The  Mittelschloss  was  the  entrance  to  the 
Hochschloss,  and  was  converted  in  1309  into 
the  residence  of  the  grand-master  when  the 
seat  of  the  order  was  removed  from  Venice 
to  Kiinig^berg.  The  Hochmeifters-Rentei, 
or  Hall  of  the  Grand-Master,  is  forty-one 
feet  square,  and  supported  by  one  single 
pillar  of  granite.  During  the  siege,  in 
1410,  the  Polish  army  endeavored  to  strike 
this  pillar  and  overwhelm  the  knights  be- 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.) 


KoNIGSBERG. 


neath  the  ruins.  A  magnificent  passage- 
way leads  to  the  Ordens-Iientei,  or  Hall  of 
the  Order,  103  feet  long,  50  feet  wide,  and 
30  high.  The  beautiful  modern  stained 
•windows  illustrate  subjects  connected  with 
the  order. 

The  castle  and  town  were  surrendered 
to  the  Poles  in  1457,  after  having  been  in 
-ion  of  the  order  148  years,  and  gov- 
erned by  17  grand-master-. 

A  beautiful  view  may  be  obtained  from 
thi-  summit  of  the  tower. 

ElLiiuj. — Hotels,  Stadt  Jierlin  and  Konigl. 
HI >f.  An  uninteresting  commercial  town 
on  the  Kiver  Elbing.  Nothing  to  detain 
the  traveler. 

From  Elbing  to  the  village  of  Frauen- 
finrr/,  the  last  residence  of  Copernicus,  in 
2^  hours  by  steamer.  It  is  the  residence 
of  the  Bishop  of  Ermcland,  whose  palace 
stands  on  a  height  above  the  town.  The 
Cathedral  is  a  handsome  structure,  built  in 
the  Gothic  style,  and  fortified  with  towers 
and  walls. 

K-.'i ';/.<'»  i-ff.  —  Hi'ilfl  de  Prusse,  Skibbe's 
UC.ti  '.  and  Deutsches  Ilaus.  This  interesting 
city,  the  fourth  in  Prussia  in  point  of  pop- 
ulation, coining  after  Berlin,  Breslau,  and 
( 'cilogne,  contains  119,1'27  inhabitants.  It 
is  >itiiated  on  lioth  banks  of  the  Kiver  Pre- 
gel,  4j  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  a  for- 
trc-s  of  the  first  class,  strongly  protected 
by  forts,  and  keeps  a  garrison  of  6680  men. 
It  was  once  the  capital  of  Prussia  proper, 
and  for  a  long  time  the  residence  of  the 
Dukes  of  Brandenburg.  Itowes  its  founda- 
tion to  the  existence  of  a  fortress  belonging 
to  the  Teutonic  Order,  built  on  an  eminence, 
and  called  Kiinigsbcrg,  or  "Hill  of  the 
King."  in  honor  of  Ottokar,  king  of  Bohe- 
mia. After  the  taking  of  the  castle  of  Ma- 
rienburg,  Kc'inigsberg  became  the  residence 
of  the  Grand-Master  of  the  Teutonic  Order. 

The  tichloss.  or  Palace,  is  an  ordinary 
looking  building.  It  was  built  by  Otto- 
kar in  1257.  It  ha^  undergone  numerous 
changes,  and  is  now  used  by  the  municipal 
government  authorities.  It  was  the  resi- 
dence of  Frederick  William  III.,  King  of 
Prussia,  when  driven  from  Berlin  by  the 
army  of  Napoleon.  At  the  western  wing 
is  the  chapel  where  Frederick  III..  Elector 
of  Brandenburg,  placed  the  crown  of  Prus- 
sia on  his  own  head  in  1701.  declaring  him- 
self King  of  Prussia.  The  present  empe- 
ror, William  I.,  did  the  same  in  1861. 


Before  the  eastern  entrance  of  the  palace 
is  a  statue  of  Frederick  I.,  by  Schluter. 

To  the  northwest  is  a  handsome  monu- 
ment, erected  in  1864,  to  the  memory  of 
the  celebrated  philosopher  Kant,  who  died 
here  in  1804.  It  is  in  bronze,  by  Rauch. 

In  front  of  the  palace  a  handsome  post- 
office  stands ;  it  is  of  recent  construction ; 
and  near  it  is  the  Altstadtische  Kirche, 
finished  in  1843,  by  Schinkel. 

The  Paradeplalz  is  adorned  by  the  New 
University  Theatre  and  an  equestrian  statue 
of  Frederick  William  III.,  erected  in  1851, 
by  Kiss. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  Gothic  building  of  the 
14th  century.  It  contains  numerous  mon- 
uments of  knights  and  grand-masters.  In 
the  choir  is  a  marble  monument  of  the 
Margrave  Albert,  bearing  his  effigy. 

The  Museum  of  the  city  contains  a  col- 
lection of  modern  paintings.  It  is  open  to 
the  public  from  11  to  2  on  Sundays,  and 
from  11  to  1  on  Wednesdays,  and  every 
day  to  travelers  on  payment  of  1  mark. 

Notice  No.  273,  by  Piloty,  the  Abbess  of 
Frauen-Chiemsee  defending  her  convent 
against  bandits ;  also  253,  by  Lessiny,  a 
monk  praying  near  the  coffin  of  the  em- 
peror Henry  IV.;  262,  C«mphavs<n,  Wel- 
lington and  Blucher  at  Belle-Alliance. 

In  the  same  street  is  the  Library,  contain- 
ing 160,000  volumes. 

Near  the  Observatory,  erected  in  1813, 
I  are  the  Zoological  and  Botanical  Gardens. 

The  exportation  of  amber  was  formerly 
the  most  important  product  of  this  city, 
and  is  still  one  of  its  chief  exports.  It  is 
found  along  the  north  coast  of  Prussia. 
After  severe  storms  it  is  thrown  on  the 
coast  with  the  sea-weed,  having  been  torn 
up  from  its  bed  by  the  severe  storms  that 
occur  in  the  Baltic.  It  is  mostly  export- 
ed to  the  East,  and  many  persons  think  it 
is  the  product  of  the  Levant.  The  right 
to  collect  it  was  formerly  one  of  the  priv- 
ileges of  the  grand-masters,  who  defrayed 
tlie  expenses  of  the  order  with  tiie  proceeds. 
It  became  afterward  a  monopoly  of  the 
court.  The  right  is  now  leased  to  private 
individuals.  It  is  sometimes  dug  along 
the  coastal  a  depth  of  forty  feet,  and  found 
in  the  formation  known  as  glanconite  sand. 
The  "milky"  amber  is  considered  the 
most  valuable,  and  is  found  at  the  lowest 
deptli.  Some  of  it  is  worth  $100  a 
pound. 

C07 


FRANKFORT. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


POSEN. 


The  monopoly  was  so  strict  that  ranges 
of  gallows  were  erected  along  the  shore  to 
show  the  penalty  of  an  infringement  of  the 
law. 

About  twenty -five  miles  southeast  of 
Konigsberg  lie  the  battle-fields  of  two  of 
Napoleon  I.'s  greatest  victories.  February 
8, 1807,  he  gained  a  complete  victory  over 
the  Russians  at  Eylau,  fighting  them  in  the 
snow ;  and  at  Friedlund,  June  14,  in  the 
same  year,  when  25,000  Russians  were 
killed  and  85  pieces  of  cannon  taken. 

Steamers  leave  Konigsberg  daily  for 
Tilsit,  in  14  hours ;  to  Danzig,  semi-weekly, 
in  18  hours  ;  to  Stettin,  semi-weekly,  in  35 
hours. 

Konigsberg  to  Berlin.  Time,  11  h.  32  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  53  marks  10  pf. 

Konigsberg  to  Danzig.  Time,  4  h.  11  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  15  marks  50  pf. 


ROUTE  No.  154. 

Berlin  to  Tilsit,  via  Frankfort-on-the- 
Oder,  Posen,  Thorn,  and  Inste.rburg .  Time, 
5  h.  11  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  66  marks ;  sec- 
ond class,  50  marks 

Seven  miles  from  Berlin  Kopenick  sta- 
tion is  passed.  This  is  a  town  of  4000  in- 
habitants, situated  on  an  island  in  the 
Spree.  Frederick  the  Great,  when  crown- 
prince,  was  here  tried  by  court-martial. 

Passing  the  stations  of  Furstenwalde  and 
liosengartcn,  of  no  importance,  in  1  hour  20 
minutes  the  train  reaches  Frankfort-on-the- 
Oder.  Hotels,  Deutsches  Uaus  and  Golde- 
ner  A  dler. 

This,  after  Berlin  and  Potsdam,  is  the 
largest  town  in  the  province  of  Branden- 
burg, and  contains  43,250  inhabitants.  It 
is  built  on  both  banks  of  the  river  ;  the 
old  town  on  the  left  bank,  and  the  new  on 
the  right,  connected  by  a  wooden  bridge, 
loaded  with  heavy  stones  to  prevent  its 
being  carried  off  when  the  river  is  swollen. 
Frankfort  lost  considerable  importance  by 
the  removal  of  its  university  to  Breslau  in 
1810.  Three  fairs  are  held  here  every 
608 


year,  in  March,  July,  and  November,  which 
are  mostly  attended  by  Polish  customers. 

The  principal  building  in  Frankfort  is 
the  Oberkirche,  constructed  of  brick,  and 
dating  from  the  14th  century.  The  carved 
altar  is  beautifully  embellished  with  pict- 
ures on  a  gold  ground.  There  is  a  cande- 
labrum, with  seven  branches,  of  the  14th 
century,  said  to  have  been  found  in  the 
Oder  300  years  ago.  Notice  a  picture  at 
the  south  entrance,  which  represents  the 
finding  of  the  body  of  Prince  Leopold, 
nephew  of  Frederick  the  Great,  who  was 
drowned  in  attempting  to  rescue  a  family 
from  drowning  in  the  Oder  during  an  in- 
undation. Notice  also  the  monument  be- 
yond the  bridge  in  memory  of  the  same 
prince. 

The  Rathhaits,  situated  on  the  market- 
place, was  erected  in  1607.  There  is  a 
theatre  near  the  railway  station. 

Three  miles  east  of  the  town  the  cele- 
brated battle  of  Kvnersdorf  was  fought  in 
1759,  on  which  occasion  Frederick  the 
Great  fought  the  united  forces  of  Austria 
and  Russia,  but  was  defeated. 

Posen,  a  first-class  fortress  belonging  to 
Prussia,  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Crbnia  and  Warthe.  Hotels,  de  Dresden, 
de  Rome,  and  de  r Europe. 

Up  to  the  year  1296  Posen  was  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Polish  kings.  In  the  Middle 
Ages  it  belonged  to  the  Hanseatic  League. 
It  now  contains  56,500  inhabitants,  not 
comprising  7000  soldiers  in  garrison.  In 
1815  it  became  the  capital  of  Prussian  Po- 
land. The  new  fortifications,  which  were 
erected  in  1828,  are  well  worth  a  visit. 
About  half  the  population  is  German,  and 
nearly  12,000  are  Jews. 

The  Catltedral  is  situated  in  the  poorest 
quarter  of  the  city.  It  contains  two  bronze 
statues  of  kings  of  Poland,  by  Ranch,  also 
numerous  monuments  of  bishops  and  no- 
bles. There  is  also  a  beautiful  Golden 
Chapel,  erected  by  a  society  of  Polish  no- 
bles, adorned  with  paintings  and  mosaics. 

The  principal  of  the  ancient  edifices  is 
the  Rathhuus,  built  in  the  Sclavonic  -  Ro- 
manesque style. 

From  Posen  to  Broniberg.  Time,  4  h. 
30  m. ;  fare,  first  class.  12  marks  20  pf. 

From  Posen  to  Breslau.  Time,  3  h.  58 
m. ;  fare,  first  class,  13  marks  10  pf. 

Gnesen. — Hotel  de  Varsovie.  An  old  town 
of  the  former  kingdom  of  Poland.  It  con- 


THORN. 


[THK  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BKESLAU. 


tains  9000  inhabitants.  It  is  said  that  it 
was  fniiiiiloil  by  I.ekh  the  First  of  Poland, 
on  the  spot  where  he  found  an  eagle's 
nest,  hence  the  name.  It  was  the  seat  of 
an  archbishop  from  the  year  1000  up  to 
1320. 

The  C'lthtilrttl,  which  dates  from  the  close 
of  the  Kith  century,  contains  the  tomb  of 
St.  Adalbert,  with  numerous  other  monu- 
ments of  archbishops  and  canons.  The 
bronze  valves,  or  folding-doors,  contain  in 
their  eighteen  compartments  subjects  from 
the  history  of  St.  Adalbert,  who  was  the 
patron  saint  of  Gnesen,  and  was  martyr- 
ed in  !I'J7  by  the  pagan  Prussians  in  his  at- 
tempts to  convert  them. 

At  Inowraclaw  junction  there  is  a  branch 
line  of  railway  to  Bromberg,  distance  27 
miles. 

Thorn  junction.  Hotel,  Sans  Souci.  A 
second-class  fortress  containing  17,000  in- 
habitants. This  city  was  founded  in  1231 
by  knights  of  the  Teutonic  Order. 

The  Raihhaus  dates  from  the  14th  cen- 
tury, and  is  well  worth  inspection.  There 
is  a  leaning  Tower,  called  the  Krumme 
Thurm,  and  a  fine  old  watch-tower. 

The  church  of  St.  John  contains  a  monu- 
ment to  Copernicus,  who  was  born  here  in 
1473. 

There  are  junction  lines  from  Thorn  to 
Cracow,  Bromberg,  and  Warsaw. 


ROUTE  No.  155. 

Stettin  to  Breslau,  via  Poien.  Time,  13 
h.  10  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  30  marks  10  pf. 

Stettin  is  described  in  Route  No.  151. 

Arnsirnldi',  \\'ronke,  and,SV(«fcrare  small 
stations  of  no  importance  to  the  traveler. 

Pospii  is  described  in  Route  No.  154. 

Lisstt,  a  small  manufacturing  town  of 
10,500  inhabitants,  near  which  Frederick 
the  Great,  with  30,000  men,  defeated  the 
Austrian  army  of  90,000. 

Riiwicz  contains  10,000  inhabitants,  and 
has  large  corn  and  wool  markets. 

Breslau  (in  Polish,  Wroclaw)  is  the  sec- 


ond city  in  Prussia  in  point  of  population, 
containing  ±;7,.">',t8  inhabitants,  50,000  of 
whom  are  Roman  Catholics,  and  2<i,OiMi 
Jews.  It  contains  also  a  garrison  of  8000 
soldiers.  Principal  hotels  are  Gulisch, 
Zedlitz,  and  Kiber. 

The  city  is  situated  on  both  banks  of  the 
Oder,  in  tho  midst  of  a  fertile  and  finely 
cultivated  plain.  It  is  of  Slavonic  origin, 
and  has  been  an  episcopal  see  since  1051. 
From  the  time  of  its  foundation  until  1KJ3 
it  belonged  to  Poland.  It  afterward  be- 
came the  capital  of  the  independent  duchy 
of  Silesia.  After  the  extinction  of  the 
ducal  family  it  passed  to  Bohemia.  Then, 
in  1527,  to  Austria,  from  whom  it  was  taken 
by  Frederick  II.  and  annexed  to  Prussia. 
It  was  again  taken  by  the  Austrians  in 
1757,  and  recaptured  by  Frederick.  It 
was  captured  by  the  French  under  Van- 
damme  in  1800.  It  was  here  that  Fred- 
erick William  III.  published  his  appeal  to 
the  people  which  commenced  the  war  of 
deliverance  in  1813. 

The  French  leveled  all  the  fortifications, 
since  which  time  they  have  been  replaced 
by  beautiful  promenades,  which  separate 
the  old  town  from  the  new  suburbs. 

The  commerce  of  Breslau  consists  in 
wool,  grain,  and  cloth.  In  the  first  of  these 
it  is  the  most  considerable  of  any  city  on 
the  Continent,  and  wool-markets  are  held 
here  semi-annually  in  June  and  October, 
which  are  attended  by  merchants  from  all 
parts  of  the  world. 

The  Cathedral  dates  from  the  l'2th  cen- 
tury ;  it  has  recently  been  restored.  The 
chapel  behind  the  high  altar  is  finely  dec- 
orated, and  contains  the  effigy  of  the 
founder,  Bishop  Pretzlaus.  The  chapel  of 
St.  John  contains  an  altar-piece  V>y  IMCOS 
Cranach,  the  "Madonna  unter  Pannen." 
There  is  a  monument  of  Duke  Christian 
of  Holstein,  who  fell  in  1691  fighting 
against  the  Turks.  Notice  the  statues  of 
Moses  and  Aaron,  by  Bruckh<\f. 

Kreuzkircke,  a  fine  old  brick  structure, 
dating  from  the  end  of  the  13th  century, 
contains  the  bones  of  St.  Innocent  and  St. 
Benedict ;  they  are  placed  on  two  altars 
under  glass.  In  front  of  the  high  altar 
stands  an  ancient  monument  of  Duke 
Henry  IV.  of  Breslan. 

The  church  of  St.  Elizabeth,  recently  re- 
stored, is  rich  in  modern  stained-glass 
windows.  Its  tower  is  3G4  feet  in  height. 
609 


BRESLAU. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


CRACOW. 


The  church  of  3fary  Magdalene  is  quite 
handsome.  Its  stained-glass  windows  were 
presented  by  Frederick  William  IV. 

The  Rathhaus,  situated  in  the  Grossen 
Ring,  founded  by  King  John  of  Bohemia 
in  the  14th  century,  was  restored  in  1862. 
It  is  a  fine  specimen  of  mediaeval  archi- 
tecture. The  hall,  called  the  FvretoieQaf, 
is  where  the  Silesian  princes  held  their 
councils.  There  are  four  vaults,  support- 
ed by  a  central  pillar.  The  basement  of 
the  Furstensaal  should  be  visited  to  see  its 
fine  vaulted  ceiling.  It  is  now  used  as  a 
restaurant. 

In  front  of  the  Rathhaus  stands  the 
Staupsaule,  or  "scourging -column,"  sur- 
mounted by  a  statue  bearing  a  sword  and 
rod,  which  recalls  the  mode  of  administer- 
ing punishment  by  the  authorities. 

The  western  part  of  the  Grossen  Ring  is 
ornamented  with  two  statues,  one  of  Fred- 
erick the  Great,  the  other  of  Frederick 
William  IV.,  both  by  Kiss. 

Behind  the  statues  stands  the  Stadthaus, 
a  modern  structure,  finished  in  1863.  Its 
interior  is  finely  decorated,  and  contains 
the  Public  Library  of  300,000  volumes, 
also  2000  MSS.,  and  a  large  collection  of 
stamps.  Open  daily  from  10  to  2. 

The  University,  transferred  from  Frank- 
fort in  1811,  numbers  nearly  one  thousand 
students.  The  building  was  originally  an 
imperial  palace. 

In  Blucherplatz  there  is  a  colossal  statue 
of  that  general,  by  Ranch. 

At  the  end  of  the  fine  street  called 
Schweidnitz  stands  the  new  theatre,  erect- 
ed in  1873,  and  the  Government  House, 
both  handsome  structures. 

The  new  Exchange,  finished  in  1867,  is 
decorated  with  great  elegance ;  it  is  open 
everj-  day  from  11  to  1. 

From  Breslau  to  Paris.  Time,  32  hours ; 
fare,  first  class,  132  marks. 

Breslau  to  Stettin.  Time,  13  h.  10  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  36  marks  9  g. 

Breslau  to  Stargard.  Time,  9  h.  20  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  27  marks. 

Breslau  to  Berlin.  Time,  6  h.  35  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  26  marks. 

Breslau  to  Dzieditz.  Time,  7  h.  6  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  13  marks. 

Breslau  to  Prague.  Time,  9  h.  30  m.  ; 
fare,  first  class,  30  marks. 


610 


ROUTE  No.  156. 

Breslau  to  Cracow  (in  Austria).  Time, 
8  h.  37  m.  ;  fare,  first  class,  32  marks  54 
pf. ;  second  class,  16  marks. 

Breslau  is  described  in  Route  No.  155. 

Passing  Uhlau.  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Oder,  and  Brleg  junction,  whence  there  is  a 
branch  road  which  leads  to  Ncisse,  a  town 
containing  19,500  inhabitants.  Time,  1  h. 
30  ra. ;  fare,  first  class,  4  marks  1  g.  A  dili- 
gence leaves  daily  during  the  season  for 
the  water-cure  establishment  of  Grdfen- 
berg,  in  6  h.  36  in.  The  town  is  situated 
in  Austrian  territory. 

The  line  crosses  the  Xeisse,  and  arrives 
at  Oppeln.  Hotel,  Schwarzer  Adler.  This 
town,  which  contains  7000  inhabitants, 
is  the  capital  of  Upper  Silesia,  and  the 
residence  in  former  times  of  the  grand- 
dukes. 

Gogolin  station,  from  which  excursions 
are  made  to  the  Franciscan  convent  of 
Annaberg,  about  five  miles  from  the  sta- 
tion. The  convent  contains  an  image  said 
to  be  miraculous,  and  the  object  of  great 
veneration  to  numerous  pilgrims  who  visit 
it  on  St.  Ann's  day. 

Kandrzin  junction.  From  this  point  the 
road  turns  to  the  east,  and  the  southern 
road  leads  to  Vienna.  On  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Oder  lies  the  town  and  fortress 
of  Cosel,  with  4500  inhabitants. 

Gleiiaitz,  situated  on  the  Klodnitz,  con- 
tains 13,000  inhabitants.  This  is  the  cen- 
tre of  the  principal  iron-works  and  iron- 
mines  in  Upper  Silesia. 

Koniffshuite,  celebrated  for  its  iron  foun- 
dries, smelting-works,  rolling-mills,  etc. 

At  Kattowitz  junction  a  line  continues 
north  to  Warsaw,  and  a  short  distance 
further  the  line  crosses  the  Austrian  fron- 
tier. At  Trzebinia  junction  a  line  turns 
south  for  Vienna. 

Cracow.  The  last  remnant  of  the  great 
kingdom  of  Poland.  Since  1846  the  capital 
of  the  Austrian  province  of  Upper  Galicia. 
It  contains  43,000  inhabitants,  of  whom 
12,000  are  Jews. 

The  city  of  Cracow  is  situated  in  the 
midst  of  an  immense  level  plain  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Vistula  and  Rudowa,  and 
when  seen  from  a  distance  appears  to  be  a 
city  of  great  magnificence.  It  was  up  to 
1766  the  city  where  Poland's  kings  were 
crowned.  Then  it  became  the  capital  of  a 


Cl'.ACOU'. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


CRACOW. 


small  republic  under  the  protection  of 
Russia,  Prussia,  and  Austria.  After  the 
general  rising  of  the  populace  in  1  «;•'•.  a 
new  division  of  Poland  took  place,  when 
Cracow  was  apportioned  to  Austria,  and 
became  a  strong  frontier  town  of  that 
empire.  The  interior  of  the  city  is  poor 
arid  inanimate  —  churches  and  barracks, 
but  little  trade,  and  a  poor  population. 
The  space  between  the  old  city  and  the 
suburbs,  has  been  transformed  into  prom- 
enades. Hotels,  de  Russie,  de  Saxe,  and 
Londre. 

The  Schloss,  or  castle,  situated  on  a  hill 
called  the  Mount  Wttrel.  and  strongly  for- 
tified, was  founded  by  Cashnir  the  Great 
in  the  14th  century,  but  only  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  ancient  edifice  is  still  existing. 
It  is  a  vast  assemblage  of  isolated  build- 
ings. It  was  the  residence  of  the  Polish 
kings  up  to  IfilO,  when  Sigistnund  III. 
transferred  his  court  to  Warsaw.  Down 
to  1794  the  regalia  and  treasures  of  the 
crown  were  kept  in  the  vaults  below  the 
castle.  In  1846  it  was  converted  ir.to  a 
barrack  and  hospital. 

The  C-ith'ilral,  which  adjoins  the  Schloss, 
is  the  principal  object  of  attraction  in  Cra- 
cow, containing  as  it  does  through  all  its 
insurrections  and  partitions  its  treasures 
intact.  It  was  consecrated  in  1359  under 
Casimir  the  Great,  and  is  the  place  of  sep- 
ulture for  Poland's  kings  and  heroes.  The 
vault  under  the  church,  constructed  by 
Stanislaus  Augustus  in  1788,  contains  the 
remains  of  Poland's  three  most  illustrious 
heroes,  viz.,  John  Sobitski.  who  died  in 
1696;  PomittO'rski.  who  was  drowned  in 
the  Elster,  near  L'ji  pzig ;  and  Thuddens  Kos- 
ciitszko,  the  '•  Thaddeus  of  Warsaw,"  the 
adjutant  of  General  Washington,  to  whom 
grateful  America  raised  a  monument  on 
the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  at  West  Point, 
near  his  garden,  where  he  used  to  walk  and 
meditate  about  his  unhappy  country. 

Thaddeus  Kosciuszko  was  born  in  1746,  at 
Sichniewice,  in  Lithuania,  and  after  fight- 
ing for  the  independence  of  the  United 
.  returned  to  his  own  country  in 
•hen-  In-  M-rvrd  under  Poniatowski 
as  major-general  against  the  Russi  ins.  and 
distinguished  himself  in  the  fight  at  Dubi- 
enskn,  near  Lublin,  in  179'2.  King  Stani-- 
laus  Augustus,  having  entered  into  a  treaty 
which  delivered  Poland  into  the  hands  of 
her  enemies,  Kosciuszko  left  his  country 


'  and  retired  to  Leipzig.     In  1794.  on  the 
rising  of  Poland,  he  left  his  retreat,  and 
was  proclaimed  commander-in-chief  of  the 
whole  of  the  national  forces.     He  defeated 
the  Russians  at  Wraclawice,  near  Cracow, 
but  was  compelled  at  Choczim  to  retreat 
|  before  the  Prussians,  who  were  coming  to 
1  effect  their  junction   with   the   Russians. 
Four  months  later  (October  4),  attacked  at 
Maciejowice  by  a  Russian  army  very  su- 
perior in  numbers,  he  fell  on  the  field  of 
battle,  stabbed  in  many  places.  It  has  been 
said  that  as  he  lay  on  the  ground  he  cried 
out,  "Finis  Poloniae ! "  but  he  himself  de- 
!  nied  that  desponding  exclamation.      He 
|  was  led  a  prisoner  to  St.  Petersburg,  where 
!  he  remained  two  years.     Being  set  at  lib- 
erty by  Paul  I.,  he  traveled  in  England  and 
!  America,  came  to  Paris  in  1798.  and  lived 
j  in  retirement  both  in  this  capital  and  at 
Fontainebleau.     In  1814  he  retired  to  So- 
leure,  in  Switzerland,  where  he  died  in 
1817.     Kosciuszko  had  been  proclaimed  a 
French  citizen  as  early  as  1792.    He  found- 
ed in  his  will  a  school  for  the  instruction 
of  the  blacks  in  America.     Jefferson  car- 
ried his  intention  into  effect  by  instituting 
at  Newark  the  Knsc!it/s-/:n  School. 

In  the  centre  of  the  nave  of  the  church 
stands  the  magnificent  shrine  of  St.  Stan- 
islaus, the  patron  saint  of  Poland.  The  cof- 
fin, which  is  supported  on  the  shoulders  of 
four  angels,  is  of  solid  silver,  as  well  as  the 
supporters,  altar,  statues,  candlesticks,  etc. 
It  was  in  front  of  this  altar  that  the  Pol- 
ish kings  were  all  crowned.  Around  the 
church  arc  sixteen  chapels,  containing  nu- 
merous monuments  of  kings  and  heroes. 
The  first  chapel,  on  coming  out  of  the 
vaults,  contains  the  recumbent  figure  of 
King  Casimir  Jagello,  who  died  in  1492. 
The  figure  is  in  porphyry,  and  by  Veit  Stoss. 
On  the  opposite  side  is  that  of  Bishop  Sol- 
tyk.  The  second  chapel  contains  Thor- 
•waldsfri's  Christ,  with  several  busts  by  the 
same  artist. 

Notice  the  monument  of  Casimir  the 
Great,  the  "  founder  of  cities."  Behind 
the  high  altar  is  the  monument  of  King 
John  Sobieski,  the  conqueror  of  the  Turks, 
who  died  in  1696. 

The  Treasury,  which  contains  the  Polish 
|  regalia,  is  shown  at  10  A.M. 

The  church  of  St.  .Vary,  in  the  market- 
place, deserves  a  visit :   it  dates  from  the 
13th  century,  and  contains  a  fine  monu- 
611 


CRACOW. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


WARSAW. 


ment  of  Copernicus.  The  high  altar  was 
the  work  of  the  great  Nuremberg  artist, 
Veil  Stoss. 

The  University,  one  of  the  oldest  in  Eu- 
rope, was  founded  by  Casimir  the  Great. 
It  contains  the  wood-cuts  of  one  of  the  first 
editions  of  the  Bible  printed  in  Europe ; 
also  a  statue  of  Copernicus,  who  was  a  pro- 
fessor here.  There  is  a  botanical  garden 
attached  to  the  building. 

•  A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  Cloth-hall, 

•  in  the  centre  of  the  market-place.     This 
also   was  founded  by  Casimir  the  Great. 
The  lower  part  is  occupied  by  shops,  and 
is  exceedingly  interesting. 

About  four  miles  to  the  north  of  Cracow 
is  situated  an  immense  mound  of  earth, 
thrown  up  by  the  united  efforts  of  the  peo- 
ple to  the  honor  of  Kosciuszko.  The  view 
from  the  summit  is  a  splendid  one.  The 
Austrians  have  used  it  as  a  pedestal  for 
one  of  their  detached  forts,  with  which  they 
have  encircled  the  entire  city  at  an  enor- 
mous expense. 

A  valet-de-place  costs  about  two  florins. 
Florins  of  Poland,  in  which  accounts  are 
kept,  are  equivalent  to  12i  cents  U.  S.  cur- 
rencj',  or  8  to  the  dollar. 

A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  salt-mines 
of  Wieliezka.     The  mines  were  nearly  de- 
stroyed in  1868  by  an  inundation.    Permis- 
sion to  visit  them  may  be  obtained  on  Mon- 
days, Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays  at  2.30 
P.M.     The  fee  paid  depends  on  the  extent 
of  the  illumination — from  8  florins  to  100. 
A  railroad  is  built  to  them,  but  a  pleasant 
drive   in   a  carriage  will  take   one  hour,  j 
These  mines  have  been  worked  900  years, 
and  abound  in  chapels,  halls   for  music,  j 
dancing,   and   various    entertainments,    a 
lake,  caverns,  grottoes,  bridges,  all  cut  out  I 
of  solid,  granite-like  salt.     There  are  now  | 
1200  persons  employed ;  G  miles  of  horse- 
railroad,  employing  35  horses,  hundreds  of  i 
feet  under  the  surface.     The  greatest  depth  ; 
is  about  450  feet.     The  mines  are  clean  j 
and  well  lighted.    Take  at  least  one  dozen  ] 
Bengal  lights,  and  three  or  four  mines  for 
exploding  for  effect  of  echoes ;  they  are 
obtained  at  the  office,  together  with  over- 
dremea. 

From  Cracow  to  Breslau.  Time,  7  h.  29 
m. ;  fare,  first  class,  32  marks  54  pf. 

From  Cracow  to  Vienna.     Time,  9  h.  24 
m. ;  fare,  first  class,  19  fl.  62  kr. ;  second 
class,  14  marks  70  pf. 
612 


From  Cracow  to  Paris.     Time,  43  h.  10 
m.,  via  Myslovitz-Berlin ;  fare.  192  francs 

25  c. 


ROUTE  No.  157. 

Cracow  to  Warsaw.     Time,  12  h.  36  m. 

Russia  is  entered  at  <iranit.-m,  where  bag- 
gage and  passports  are  examined. 

Czenstocfuiu,  situated  on  the  Wartha. 
It  is  noted  for  its  convent,  Jasiui  (iiir  i, 
which  contains  a  picture  of  the  Virgin,  ?  .ii<! 
to  have  been  painted  by  St.  Luke,  and  the 
oliject  of  great  reverence  to  numerous  pil- 
grims who  come  yearly  to  pay  tlioir  devo- 
tions. The  convent  is  surrounded  l>y  a 
miniature  fortress  ;  l,ut  it  has  done  good 
service  on  several  occasions  when  defend- 
ing itself  against  its  enemies. 

Pelrikau,  a  town  of  .11,250  inhabitants, 
situated  on  the  Shavra.  Some  of  the  first 
tribunals  of  Poland  were  held  here. 

At  Skiernuvitse  junction  the  line  from 
Berlin  joins  that  from  Vienna.  This  place 
was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Princes 
Primate  of  Poland.  It  was  presented  to 
Maria  Grudzinska  by  Alexander  I.  on  the 
occasion  of  her  marriage  to  the  Grand-Duke 
Constantine,  who  at  her  death  bequeathed 
it  to  the  kings  of  Poland. 

Warsaw. — Situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Vistula.  Principal  hotels,  Victoria  and 
Europe. 

The  price  of  droskies  is  20  kopecks  the 
course,  and  75  the  hour.  Accounts  in  Rus- 
sia are  kept  in  rubles  and  kopecks.  100 
kopecks  =  1  ruble  =  75  cents  I". S.  currency. 

The  city  of  Warsaw  was  founded  in  the 
12th  century,  and  in  the  IGth  Sigisnumd 
III.  made  it  the  capital  of  Poland.  There 
is  very  little  to  detain  the  traveler  here, 
the  pictures  and  objects  of  art  having  all 
been  carried  off  to  Moscow  or  St.  Peters- 
burg in  1831. 

The  Royal  Castle  is  situated  on  a  large 
square,  in  the  centre  of  which  stands  the 
bronze  statue  of  Sigismund  III.  on  a  mon- 
olith of  native  marble,  erected  by  his  M.I:. 
Vladislas  IV.  It  was  built  by  the  Duke 
of  Masovia,  and  restored  by  Augustus  III., 


WARSAW. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


WARSAW. 


and  was  a  royal  residence  up  to  1831.  when 
all  its  treasures  were  removed.  The  form- 
er royal  apartments  are  now  used  by  the 
lieutenant  of  the  emperor.  '1  he  other 
parts,  formerly  occupied  liy  the  deputies 
and  senate  of  Poland,  are  now  a  caserne. 

The  Pod  BUikon,  the  former  palace  of 
the  Prince  Joseph  Poniatowski,  is  now  used 
by  the  diplomatic-  chancery.  The  Palace 
.Square  was  the  scene  of  two  popular  upris- 
ings of  the  citizens  in  1*01.  On  both  oc- 
casions a  great  slaughter  of  the  people  took 
place. 

The  Cathedral  dates  from  the  13th  cen- 
tury. It  w:is  restored  liy  King  John  So- 
bieski.  Notice  a  monument  to  Count  Ma- 
lakhovski.  by  Tkorioaldiem ;  also  another  to 
Bishop  Albertrandi,  a  celebrated  historian. 
There  are  numerous  other  objects  of  lesser 
import  which  the  valet-de-place  will  point 
out. 

A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  new  Cita- 
del, built  in  1831  at  the  expense  of  the  city, 
as  a  punishment  for  their  offense  in  getting 
up  an  insurrection  during  that  year.  It 
also  completely  commands  the  town  in  case 
of  another  revolt. 

A  drive  should  be  taken  through  the 
Jews'  quarter,  near  which  is  an  admirably 
managed  Lun-ttic  Asylum. 

Near  the  palace  of  the  archbishops  of 
Warsaw,  last  inhabited  by  the  Archbishop 
Fialkovski  in  1801,  is  the  confiscated  pal- 
ace of  the  Pats  family,  and  the  Church  of 
the  Capuchins,  attached  to  a  convent  founded 
by  John  Sobieski  III.  in  gratitude  for  his 
victory  over  the  Turks.  His  heart  is  con- 
tained in  a  sarcophagus  in  a  chapel  erected 
by  the  Emperor  Nicholas.  In  the  same 
chapel  is  an  urn  dedicated  to  King  Stanis- 
laus Poniatowski. 

In  Saxony  Square,  where  the  Hotel  dc 
1'Europe  is  situated,  there  is  an  obelisk 
erected  to  the  Polish  generals  who  were 
supposed  to  be  faithful  to  the  Russian 
cause  in  lxl<i.  A  bronze  statue  of  Prince 
Joseph  Poniatowski.  by  Thorwaldsen,  was 
to  have  been  erected  here  by  the  Emperor 
Nicholas,  and  the  statue  was  executed  ;  but 
after  the  rising  of  the  people  in  that  year 
the  empen;r  (.resented  the  statue  to  the 
Kiiv-i.m  General  Paskewitcli.  who  put  down 
the  insurrection.  The  general  had  the 
head  of  the  prince  replaced  by  one  of  him- 
self, and  erected  the  statue  on  his  own  es- 
tate at  Homel. 

VOL.  II.— D  2 


The  Briihl  Palace  is  another  structure 
in  Saxony  Square.  It  was  erected  by 
Count  Briihl,  a  minister  of  Augustus  III., 
and  was  the  former  residence  of  the  Grand- 
Duke  Constantine  when  he  was  command- 
er-in-chief  of  the  Russian  forces  in  Poland. 

There    are   numerous   other   pala 
Rudziwill,   Zumoyski,   and   Poniatmctki  — 
but  they  contain  nothing  to  interest  the 
traveler. 

In  the  church  of  the  Holy  Cross,  of  the 
suppressed  convent  of  Lazarus,  founded 
by  the  queen  of  King  John  Sobieski  III., 
is  the  tomb  of  Prince  Joseph  Poniatowski. 
Close  to  this  church  stands  the  monument 
to  Copernicus,  by  Thorwaldsen. 

There  is  also  a  FieldofMars,  or  Parade- 
ground,  a  National  Theatre  and  French 
Theatre,  Lyceum,  Military  Academy,  School 
of  Arts,  Conservatory  of  Music,  r  Royal  So- 
ciity  of  the  Friends  of  Science,  with  a  tine 
library,  Agricultural  Society,  and  Cabinet 
of  Natural  Sciences. 

In  the  Novi  Sviat  is  a  pretty  church, 
erected  by  the  Emperor  Alexander  I.  in 
memory  of  the  re-establishment  of  a  king- 
dom in  Poland  in  1815.  In  the  division 
:  that  took  place  after  1794  Warsaw  was 
awarded  to  Prussia,  from  whom  it  was 
taken  by  the  French  under  Murat  in  1806, 
and  up  to  1815  it  was  the  capital  of  the 
grand-duchy  of  Warsaw,  created  by  Na- 
poleon, after  which  time  it  was  ceded  to 
Russia  by  the  allies. 

In  front  of  this  church  are  two  crosses, 
'  separated  by  the  statue  of  St.  John  of  Ne- 
'  pomuck,  the  patron  saint  of  bridges.     It  is 
said  they  were  erected  to  the  memory  of 
two  brothers  who  killed  each  other  in  com- 
bat, both  being  in  love  with  their  owu 
sister. 

Near   the   Observatory   and   Botanical 
Gardens  is  the  park  of  LaziensLi.  formerly 
the  country  residence  of  the  kings  of  Po- 
land, and  where  the  Emperor  of  Russia  re- 
1  sides    when    he   visits   Warsaw;    near   to 
;  which  is  the  Belvidere  Pa/ace,  a  former 
i  residence   of  the    Grand -Duke    Constan- 
!  tine. 

A  pleasant  excursion  should  be  made  to 
the  Palace  of  Villanov,  about  one  hour's 
drive  from  Warsaw.  It  was  a  favorite 
residence  of  King  John  Sobieski  III.,  who 
died  here  in  1696.  Most  of  the  palace  was 
built  by  the  Turks  taken  prisoners  by  the 
king,  and  ornamented  with  trophies  taken 
613 


ODERBEI:G. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MiJNSTER. 


in  his  victorious  campaign  in  the  East; 
and  here  he  returned,  amid  the  shouts  of 
his  victorious  countrymen,  after  driving 
the  Turks  from  under  the  walls  of  Vienna, 
and  saving  the  Austrian  monarchy.  One 
room  is  filled  with  portraits  of  Polish  kings 
and  queens,  another  with  armor  and  other 
curiosities.  Notice  the  suit  of  armor  pre- 
sented by  the  Pope  to  King  John.  The 
apartment  of  the  lovely  Mary  of  Arquien, 
queen  of  John  III.,  is  very  pretty  ;  one  of 
the  rooms  represents  the  amours  of  Jupiter. 

In  the  park  is  the  magnificent  tent  of 
Kara  Mustapha,  brought  from  Vienna  by 
King  John. 

There  are  numerous  interesting  villas  in 
the  vicinity  that  belong  to  Count  Potocki, 
with  a  fine  deer  park ;  and  Ursinov,  the 
former  residence  of  Julius  Ursin  Niemce- 
vicz,  the  friend  of  Washington  and  Kosci- 
uszko. 

From  Warsaw  to  Paris,  via  Berlin. 
Time,  42  h.  45  m. ;  fare,  163  marks  50  pf. 

From  Warsaw  to  St.  Petersburg.  Time, 
23  h.  55  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  31  fl.  53  kr. 

From  Warsaw  to  Vienna.  Time,  18  h.  40 
m. ;  fare,  10  fl.  75  kr. 


ROUTE  No.  158. 

Cracow  to  Vienna,  via  Oderberg,  Prerau, 
Bisenz,  and  Lundenburg.  Time,  9  h.  24 
m. ;  fare,  first  class,  19  fl.  62  kr.=$10.  1  fl. 
—50  cts. 

At  Dzieditz  station  a  branch  line  runs  in 
one  hour  to  Bielitz,  a  manufacturing  town. 

Oderberg,  a  frontier  station  of  Austria, 
situated  on  the  Oder,  is  the  junction  of  the 
lines  from  Breslau  and  Cracow. 

SchOnbrunn  junction,  a  branch  line,  in 
one  and  a  quarter  hours  runs  to  Troppau, 
one  of  the  principal  towns  in  Austrian  Si- 
lesia, containing  12,500  inhabitants.  Capi- 
tal of  the  duchies  of  Troppau  and  Jagern- 
dorf. 

Weisskirchen  forms  the  boundary  be- 
tween Moravia  and  Austrian  Silesia. 

Prerau  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities 
of  Moravia.  Its  castle  of  Berg  was  long 
614 


inhabited  by  Matthias  Corvinius.  The  line 
from  Prague  through  Olmiitz  falls  in  here. 

Lundenburg  junction  is  where  the  line 
from  Prague  through  Briinn  joins  the  main 
line  ;  also  from  Prague  through  Znaim. 

Passing  through  the  station  Gdnzern- 
dorf,  where  a  line  leaves  for  Presburg, 
Pesth,  etc.,  and 

Florisdorf,  where  the  Austrians  estab- 
lished a  fortified  tcte-du-pont  against  the 
Prussians  in  1SG6, 

Vienna  is  reached.  For  description  of 
Vienna,  see  Route  185. 


ROUTE  No.  159. 

Dusseldorf  to  Bremen,  via  Munster  and 
Osnabruck.  Time,  6  h.  31  m. ;  fare,  first 
class,  23  marks  60  pf. ;  second  class,  17 
marks  70  pf. 

For  description  of  Dusseldorf,  see  Route 
145. 

In  forty  minutes  from  Dusseldorf  the 
station  and  junction  of  Oberhausen  is 
reached.  Direct  line  to  Berlin,  also  to 
Holland. 

Oberhausen  is  described  in  Route  145. 

Munster,  the  capital  of  the  province  of 
Westphalia,  is  situated  on  the  River  Aa, 
and  contains  28,000  inhabitants.  Princi- 
pal hotels,  Kimig  von  England  and  tthein- 
ischerhof.  It  is  an  Episcopal  see  of  great 
antiquity,  and  is  said  to  have  been  founded 
by  Charlemagne  :  during  the  13th  and  14th 
centuries  it  was  one  of  the  most  celebrated 
towns  belonging  to  the  Hanseatic  League. 
It  was  formerly  ruled  by  archbishops,  who 
were  independent  princes;  and  one  of 
them,  the  Bishop  of  Galen,  in  1678,  during 
the  wars  of  France  and  the  Netherlands, 
maintained  an  army  of  60,000  men,  in- 
fantry and  cavalry,  with  200  pieces  of  ar- 
tillery. The  town  is  finely  preserved,  and 
some  of  the  houses  are  remarkable  speci- 
mens of  antiquity,  especially  those  in  the 
principal  street  (Markt). 

The  principal  Gothic  building  is  the  Ca 
thedral,  constructed  between  the  13th  and 


MlJKSTER. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


JUTERBOOK. 


14th  centuries.  The  interior  has  been 
much  mutilated  by  the  Anabaptists,  a  sect 
widely  spread  over  Germany  and  the  Neth- 
erlands about  the  commencement  of  the 
Reformation.  Some  of  them  still  exist 
under  the  name  of  Mennonites.  In  If.:!.'! 
this  se:-t,  headed  by  a  tailor,  John  Bock- 
hold,  from  I.evden,  in  Holland,  and  Mat- 
tliii-M-n,  a  baker  from  Haarlem,  came  to 
MiinstcT,  and  with  the  aid  of  one  or  two 
citizens  succeeded  in  banishing  the  Epis- 
copal party.  Taking  the  reins  of  govern- 
ment, they  declared  the  tailor  "  King  of 
the  New  Sion."  A  reign  of  terror  com- 
menced ;  fearful  atrocities  were  committed ; 
jMilygamy  was  introduced,  and  riot  ran  wild, 
while  pestilence  and  famine  devastated  the 
town.  The  following  year  they  were  com- 
pelled to  capitulate,  and  the  leaders  were 
put  to  fearful  tortures  and  executed. 

Behind  the  choir  is  the  tomb  of  Bishop 
Galen,  the  u  warrior  bishop." 

The  church  of  St.  Ludger,  originally 
built  in  the  Romanesque  style  in  the  12th 
century,  was  enlarged,  after  a  fire  in  1383, 
in  the  Gothic  stylo.  It  was  restored  be- 
tween ixfit;  and  18(iO,  and  deserves  a  visit. 
Its  stained-glass  windows  and  sculpture 
are  very  fine. 

•S7.  Lambert  Church  is  a  very  handsome 
Gothic  structure  of  the  14th  century. 
From  its  leaning  tower  hang  the  iron  cages 
in  which  the  Levden  tailor,  or  tailor  king, 
and  his  Anabaptist  associates  were  tor- 
tured with  red-hot  pincers  previous  to  their 
execution  in  the  Great  Square.  The  house 
of  John  of  Leyden  is  shown  behind  the 
Post-office. 

The  Rathhaus  has  a  fine  Gothic  front, 
and  dates  from  the  14th  century.  In  one 
of  its  saloons,  called  the  f'riedenssaal,  was 
signed  the  Peace  of  Westphalia,  October  24, 
1648.  It  was  restored  in  1853,  and  con- 
tains portraits  of  the  embassadors  who 
signed  the  peace,  and  the  princes  who  took 
part  in  the  Congress. 

Under  the  colonnade  are  exposed  the 
tongs  and  pincers  with  which  the  Anabap- 
tists were  tortured  previous  to  their  exe- 
cution. 

In  the  Domplatz  is  a  museum  of  antiq- 
uities. 

Behind  the  chateau  there  is  a  public 
park,  with  a  botanical  garden. 

There  is  a  line  from  Minister  through 
Rhtina,  Lingtn,  and  Meppen  to  Emden. 


Rheina  is  a  small  commercial  town  on  the 
Ems,  with  a  handsome  Gothic  church,  and 
has  several  fine  modern  buildings. 

Osnabriick  (hotel,  Sch'iumbi.ry)  is  the 
capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name, 
and  contains  24,000  inhabitants :  it  was 
founded  by  Charlemagne  in  783.  The 
Cathedral  dates  from  the  12th  century,  and 
contains  numerous  relics. 

The  adjoining  square  is  ornamented 
with  a  monument  in  bronze  to  Justus  Mo- 
ser,  1)}'  Drake,  erected  to  the  "  Westpha- 
lian  Franklin." 

The  church  of  St.  Mary  is  a  small  edifice 

of  the  purest  Gothic  ;   it  is  rich  in  tracery 

and  sculpture.     The  altar  is  surmounted 

I  with   a   tabernacle   beautifully  decorated 

and  gilded. 

Adjoining  this  is  the  Rathhaus,  a  castel- 
lated building  of  the  15th  century.  Many 
of  the  negotiations  for  the  Peace  of  West- 
phalia took  place  here,  some  souvenirs  of 
which  still  exist. 

The  line  passes  several  stations  before 
reaching  Bremen,  which  are  of  no  impor- 
tance. 

Brem'n  is  described  in  Route  150. 


ROUTE  No.  160. 

Berlin  to  Leipzig,  via  Wittenberg.  Time, 
3  h.  5  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  15  marks  40  pf. ; 
second  class,  11  marks  80  pf. 

Gros-t-Beeren,  a  station  11  miles  from  Ber- 
lin ;  the  scene  of  a  victory  gained  by  the 
Prussians  over  the  French  and  Germans 
under  Oudinot,  August  21,  1813.  A  cast- 
iron  obelisk,  ornamented  with  a  cross,  marks 
the  spot. 

Luckenwald,  a  town  of  13,000  inhabitants, 
celebrated  for  its  cloth  manufactories. 

Juterbrgk  junction. — The  line  for  Hallo 
here  turns  to  the  right.  The  principal  ob- 
ject of  attraction  here  is  the  noted  indul- 
gence-box in  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas. 
It  was  the  property  of  Tetzel,  Luther's  an- 
615 


WITTENBERG. 


[THE.EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


WlTTEXBEUG. 


tagonist,  who  was  conveying  it  home  filled 
with  gold  when  it  was  stolen  from  him 
by  a  robber  knight,  Hans  von  Hacke.  Tet- 
zel  had  previously  sold  the  robber  an  in- 
dulgence for  any  action  he  might  commit. 

Some  two  miles  from  this  station  is  the 
battle-field  of  Dennewitz,  where  the  Prus- 
sians gained  another  victory  over  the 
French,  commanded  by  Ney  and  Oudinot. 
The  French  lost  10,000  prisoners,  and  Ber- 
lin was  saved.  A  monument  has  been 
erected  to  commemorate  the  event. 

Wittenberg. — Hotels,  Ludwig,  Zum  golden- 
en  Adler,  and  Wtintraube.  There  is  a  good 
restaurant  at  the  station.  Wittenberg  is 
a  fortified  town,  situated  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Elbe.  It  is  noted  for  being  the 
place  where  Martin  Luther  first  com- 
menced his  war  against  the  evils  and 
abuses  of  the  Church  of  Rome.  He  was 
Professor  of  Philosophy  and  Theology  in 
the  University  of  Wittenberg,  the  same 
school  where  Shakspeare's  Hamlet  stud- 
ied. The  Schlusskirche  is  the  principal 
building.  It  was  against  the  doors  of  this 
church  that  Luther  hung  up  his  ninety-five 
arguments  against  the  Church  of  Rome, 
offering  to  defend  them  against  all  comers. 
In  the  centre  of  the  church  are  two  tablets 
let  into  the  floor,  pointing  out  the  spot 
where  Luther  and  his  friend  Melanchthon 
lie  buried. 

Martin  Luther  was  born  November  10, 
1484,  in  Eisleben,  a  town  in  Prussian  Sax- 
ony. He  was  the  son  of  a  miner.  He 
studied  at  Eisenach,  begging  in  the  mean 
time  to  obtain  a  subsistence.  A  thunder- 
bolt having  killed  one  of  his  companions  at 
his  side,  caused  him  to  embrace  religion. 
He  entered  the  convent  of  the  Augustins, 
and  became  professor  of  theology  in  the 
University  of  Wittenberg.  Having  stud- 
ied the  writings  of  John  Huss,  he  rapidly 
acquired  a  taste  for  his  opinions.  The 
sale  of  indulgences  by  the  Pope  furnished 
him  an  occasion  to  open  the  controversy. 
He  published  an  argument  in  which  he  de- 
nied their  efficacy.  Tho  quarrel  soon  be- 
came excited.  Lnther,  who  at  first  at- 
tacked but  the  abuses  of  the  Church,  now 
attacked  the  authority  of  the  Pope,  the  be- 
lief in  purgatory,  the  celibacy  of  the  priests, 
the  possession  of  temporal  wealth,  the  doc- 
trine of  transubstantiation,  and  the  mass. 
He  married  a  nua  yarned  Katharine 'von 
Bora,  by  whom  he  had  six  children.  He 
was  excommunicated  by  the  Pope,  and 
616 


I  Henry  VIII.  of  England  wrote  strongly 
i  against  him.     He  burned  the  bulls  of  the 
Pope,  and  responded  to  Henry  VIII.  in  the 
strongest  terms.     The  duchy  of  Saxony, 
i  Denmark,  and  Sweden  took  th»  part  of 
Luther  in  this  quarrel.     At  the  Diet  of 
Worms  he  supported  his  opinions.     The 
I  first  Diet  of  Spire,  held  in  1526.  acknowl- 
j  edged  the  liberty  of  conscience;  that  hold 
in  1529,  desiring  to  rescind  the  acknowl- 
edgment of  the  first,  the  Lutherans  />/»- 
tested  against  it,  from  whence  is  derived 
the  name  of  Protestants.     Luther  died  at 
Eisleben,  in  1504,  in  the  sixty-third  year 
I  of  his  age.     He  was  a  man  of  impetuous 
i  eloquence,  and  exercised  an  irresistible  in- 
fluence on  the  multitude.     His  works  are 
very  numerous.     Bossuet,  in  his   Histoi~y 
of  the  Variations  of  the  Church,  has  tried  to 
refute  his  doctrines. 

In  addition  to  the  tombs  of  Luther  and 
Melanchthon  in  the  Sch'osskirche  are  the 
monuments  of  Frederick  the  Wise  and  John 
the  Steadfast,  both  of  whom  were  strong 
suppo;ters  of  Luther  and  his  doctrines. 
There  is  also  a  line  bronze  statue  of  Fred- 
erick the  Great.  In  the  Market  J'luce 
there  is  a  Gothic  temple  of  iron,  and  in  it 
a  bronze  statue  of  Luther,  erected  in  1821, 
with  this  inscription  in  German  :  "If  it  be 
the  work  of  God,  it  trill  endure  ;  if  of  man, 
it  will  perish."  In  the  University  build- 
ings, where  he  resided  after  he  was  mar- 
ried, there  still  remain  his  chair,  table, 
beer-jug,  and  two  portraits  ot  him  by  Cra- 
nach,  who  was  a  native  of  Wittenberg ; 
also  a  cast  of  1  is  face  taken  after  his  death. 
Many  of  the  nobles  of  the  earth  have  stood 
in  this  room,  and  left  their  names  on  the 
wall  as  memorials  of  their  visit ;  among 
others,  Peter  the  Great,  who  wrote  his 
name  with  chalk  over  the  door  :  it  is  now 
covered  with  a  piece  of  glass  to  protect  it 
from  the  touch  of  the  curious.  At  the 
Stadtkirche  may  be  seen  the  font  where 
Luther  baptized,  also  some  very  fine  pict- 
ures by  Cranach.  The  present  citadel 
was  formerly  the  castle  of  the  electors. 

The  town  of  Wittenberg  was  besieged 
by  the  Prussians  for  nearly  one  year  in 
1814,  and  was  finally  carried  by  storm  : 
the  French  suffered  severely  in  this  action. 
On  the  place  where  Luther,  on  the  10th  of 
Dec.,  1520,  burned  the  Pope's  bull,  there  is 
a  tree  now  standing  inclosed  by  a  railing. 
The  ancient  University  was  removed  in 
1817,  and  united  to  that  of  Halle. 


I  ii  WAD. 

The  line  now  crosses  the  Elbe  by  a 
bridge  901)  feet  long,  and  arrives  at  Bitter- 
feld  junction.  A  line  to  the  north  goes  to 
',-,  that  to  the  west  to  Halle. 

[DesmiH  is  a  town  of  19,000  inhabitants, 
and  the  capital  of  the  dukedom  of  Anhalt- 
i.  There  are  no  public  buildings  but 
hloss,  which  contains  a  picture-gal- 
lery and  a  library  with  numerous  MSS.  of 
Luther;  there  is  one  department  devoted 
t  i  relics,  which  contains  several  articles  of 
Napoleon  captured  at  Waterloo.  The 
Schlosskirche  contains  the  tombs  of  the 
ducal  family,  and  a  Last  Supper  by  Crn- 
nach.  Mendelssohn,  the  composer,  was 
born  in  Dessau.] 

Ltipzig,  described  in  Route  No.  162. 

ROUTE  No.  161. 

Berlin  to  Dusseldorf,  via  Halle,  Eisleben, 
Nordhausen,  Cassil,  and  Elberfeld.  Time, 
15  h. ;  fare,  first  class,  56  marks  10  pf. ; 
second  class,  39  marks  80  pf.  (sleeping-car 
to  Diisseldorf  and  Aix-la-Chapelle,10  P.M., 
8  mark.-  . 

Berlin  to  Dusseldorf,  direct,  via  Schwerte. 
Time,  9  h.  57  m. ;  fare,  49  marks  70  pf. 

From  Berlin  to  BitterfM,  see  Route  160. 

Halle,  situated  on  the  river  Saale,  con- 
tains 52, COO  inhabitants.  Principal  ho- 
tels, Stadt  Hamburg,  Kronprinz,  and  AV</  It 
Zurich.  The  name  of  this  town  is  derived 
from  the  Greek,  and  means  Salt  Springs, 
such  springs  having  existed  from  the  re- 
motest period,  and  are  worked  to-<lay,  pro- 
ducing annually  11,000  tons  of  salt.  There 
are  numerous  private  springs  which  rise' 
within  the  town,  where  the  water  is  boiled 
down ;  those  outside  the  town  belong  to 
the  government,  and  are  situated  on  an  isl- 
and in  the  river.  The  brine  is  pumped  up 
by  a  steam-engine. 

Halle  is  celebrated  for  its  University, 
founded  by  Frederick  I.  of  Prussia  in  !(>'.)  1, 
whi'-h  contains  at  the  present  time  (l>7r,  i 
1000  students.  That  of  Wittenberg  was 
transferred  here  in  1817. 

This  town  formed  part  of  the  Hanseatic 
League  in  the  13th  and  14th  centm 

In  the  market-place  visit  the  Rot  lie 
Thurm,  or  red  tower,  27C  feet  high.  Near 
it  is  a  colossal  bronze  statue  of  Handel, 
the  composer,  who  was  burn  he-re  in  li',,-:,. 
He  is  represented  in  n  court-dress,  and  at 
the  back  of  the  music-desk  a  St.  Cecilia 

•a  portrait  of  Jenny  Lind.     Handel  died 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


ElSLEBEN. 


in  London  in  1759.  The  monument  was 
raised  by  subscriptions  collected  in  En- 
gland and  Germany.  The  ('at fit ilral  con- 
tains an  altar-piece  representing  the  Duke 
Augustus  of  Saxony  and  his  family.  Ad- 
joining the  cathedral  is  the  former  resi- 
dence of  the  Hivhbi-hnps  of  Magdeburg. 

The  principal  religious  monument  in 
Halle  is  the  church  of  >7.  Maurice.  The 
wood-work  of  the  altar,  representing  Mary 
with  the  Saint.-,  is  most  exquisite. 

This  is  the  parish  church  of  the  work- 
men of  the  mines  called  Hulloren.  a  distinct 
race,  supposed  to  be  descendants  of  the  an- 
cient Wends,  and  who  preserve  their  old 
manners  and  customs. 

The  Marktkirche  is  a  plain  Gothic  build- 
ing flanked  by  four  towers,  dating  from 
the  middle  of  the  16th  century.  It  con- 
tains a  tine  altar-piece — the  "  Sermon  on 
the  Mount,"  by  J.  Hiibner;  also  a  fine 
work  by  Lucas  Cranach,  painted  by  the 
order  of  the  Cardinal  Albert  of  Branden- 
burg, founder  of  the  church  ;  the  subjects 
are  the  Annunciation  and  Madonna  and 
Child. 

The  Stifitingen,  or  FnmcTce's  Institute, 
founded  in  1698,  is  composed  of  an  Orp'ian 
Aay'um,  Laboratory,  and  Printing-office. 
The  establishment  is  ornamented  with  a 
statue  of  the  founder  of  these  institutions, 
by  Ranch. 

Near  the  cathedral  are  the  ruins  of  the 
chateau  of  Moritz'iurg,  reduced  to  its  pres- 
ent state  by  the  Thirty-years'  War. 

Ilnlle  to~BtrUn.  Time,  3  h.9  in.  ;  fare, 
first  class,  13  marks  2  g. 

llulle  to  Frankfort.  Time,  12  hours ; 
fare,  first  class,  4:>  marks  5  g. 

Twenty -four  miles  from  Halle,  on  our 
route,  is 

Eisleben  (Hotel,  Goldenes  ScfiiJF),  con- 
taining 12,750  inhabitants,  noted  as  the 
birthplace  of  Luther.  The  house  where 
the  great  Reformer  was  born  is  situated 
near  the  Post-office,  and  is  now  used  as  a 
school.  His  picture  is  placed  over  the 
door.  The  font  where  he  was  baptized  is 
in  tlii-  }'•?•  i--l'>niI-I\'n-<  li  . 

The  church  of  Xf.  An<!reir.  where  Luther 
preached,  contains  some  remarkable  tombs 
of  the  counts  of  Mansfcld. 

Kiirht  miles  from  Eisleben  is  the  town 
of  Mtmtjedi,  where  Luther  spent  the  first 
fifteen  years  of  his  life,  mostly  at  the  par- 
ish school. 

617 


NoBDHAtiSEN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


CASSEL. 


On  an  adjoining  hill  stands  one  of  the 
old  castles  of  the  counts  of  Mansfeld. 

X/mlh  nisen.- — Hotels,  Romiscker  Kaiser 
and  Eng'ischi-r  Jlof.  It  contains  ^0,000  in- 
habitants, and  is  situated  in  a  most  fertile 
country,  at  the  extremity  of  the  Harz 
Mountains,  the  tour  of  which  can  be  made 
from  this  point.  See  Harz  Mountains,  in 
Index. 

In  the  church  of  St.  Blasius  are  two  fine 
paintings  by  Lucas  Cranach — the  "  Ecce 
Homo,"  and  the  "Young  Man  of  Nain;" 
in  two  of  the  mourners  the  artist  has  intro- 
duced the  portraits  of  Luther  and  Melanch- 
thon. 

At  Leinfftlde  there  is  a  branch  line  to 
Gotha. 

Gottingen. — Hotel*,  Krone  and  Gebhardt. 
Population,  15,000.  This  town  contains 
nothing  of  importance  but  its  Univ  rsity, 
which  was  founded  by  George  1 1.  of  Han- 
over in  1737.  There  are  about  700  stu- 
dents and  65  professors.  The  library  is 
very  fine,  and  contains  nearly  500,000  vol- 
umes, with  5000  MSS.  There  is  a  very 
fine  Anatomical  Museum,  also  a  Museum  of 
Natural  History.  There  is  a  very  good 
Botanical  Garden  and  an  Observatory. 
The  walks  on  the  ramparts  are  quite  pleas- 
ant, but  solitary. 

Passing  the  station  Mindtn,  a  town  of 
6000  inhabitants,  where  there  is  an  old 
Schloss,  erected  in  1566,  a  former  residence 
of  the  ancestors  of  the  royal  family  of  En- 
gland, Cassel  is  reached. 

Cassel,  the  capital  of  the  late  Electorate 
of  Hesse-Cassel,  and  present  capital  of  the 
province,  is  beautifully  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  Fulda.  It  contains  a  population 
of  63,895  inhabitants.  Principal  hotels :  du 
Nord  and  Royal,  opposite  the  station,  and 
Prim  Friedrich  Wilhelm,  prettily  situated  in 
the  Friedrich  Wilhelm's  Platz.  In  the  mid- 
dle of  the  Friedrichsplatz,  the  largest  square 
in  any  German  town,  stands  a  statue  of  the 
Elector  Frederick,  whose  memory  is  uni- 
versally detested  by  all  freemen  of  the 
Western  world.  He  it  was  who  hired  his 
bloodthirsty  soldiers  to  the  King  of  En-  ! 
gland  to  crush  the  rising  growth  of  our 
young  republic.  Cassel  is  divided  into  the 
Old  and  New  towns,  the  former  of  which, 
close  to  the  river's  bank,  consists  of  nar-  ' 
row  and  dirty  streets  ;  the  latter  contains 
the  elector's  palace  and  many  other  pub- 
lic edifices,  with  several  fine  squares.  The 
618 


Museum,  which  is  situated  on  Friedrichs- 
platz, next  to  the  elector's  palace,  ia  the 
finest  building  in  Cassel.  It  contains  a 
library  of  200,000  volumes  and  a  cabinet 
of  curiosities.  Among  the  latter  are  sev- 
eral antiquities  from  Hercnlaneum.  busts 
of  Napoleon  and  his  son,  the  young  King 
of  Rome,  by  Canova,  several  very  fine  an- 
tique statues  purchased  from  the  Pope, 
among  which  are  a  Minerva  and  a  bronze 
head  of  Mars.  The  antique  bronze  figure 
of  Victory  is  the  lion  of  the  collection. 
There  are  also  some  fine  agates,  from  3  to 
4  feet  long,  from  the  Marburg  mines.  It  is 
open  free  on  Monthly,  Tuesday,  Thursday, 
and  Friday  during  the  summer,  from  10  to 
1,  and  Tuesday  and  Fridajr  in  winter;  on 
other  days  it  requires  a  fee  of  3  marks  for 
one  person  and  6  marks  for  a  party.  The 
Picture-gallery  in  the  Belvidere  contains 
some  very  fine  pictures.  They  are  princi- 
pally of  the  Dutch  school,  Rembrandt,  Van- 
dyke, and  Teniers.  There  is  a  very  fine 
cattle-piece  by  Paul  Potter,  with  numerous 
Murillos,  Titians,  Raphaels,  etc. 

This  gallery  is  open  on  Sundays  from 
12  to  2,  on  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays 
from  9  to  1 ;  on  other  days  a  small  fee  is 
expected  from  strangers. 

A  little  below  the  Friedrichsplatz,  in 
the  old  town,  is  the  Kattenbwrg,  a  large  un- 
finished palace,  begun  upon  the  site  of  the 
old  electoral  palace  destroyed  by  fire  in 
1811.  Work  on  it  was  suspended  on  ac- 
count of  the  death  of  the  elector  who  com- 
menced it.  It  is  now  covered  with  moss 
and  weeds. 

Cassel  has  eight  churches,  seven  Prot- 
estant and  one  Jewish.  The  principal  is 
the  church  of  St.  Martin :  it  is  the  burial- 
place  of  the  royal  family.  Its  educational 
and  charitable  institutions  are  very  nu- 
merous ;  among  the  latter  is  the  Wilhelms 
Institttt,  where  a  large  number  of  poor  are 
not  only  provided  for,  but  taught  different 
trades.  In  the  Auyartcn,  or  public  gar- 
den, is  situated  the  Marble  Bath,  a  very 
elaborate  apartment,  filled  with  statues 
and  bas-reliefs,  not  of  the  most  delicate 
character.  Close  to  this  is  the  orangery. 
Cassel  possesses  few  manufactures,  com- 
paratively speaking:  the  principal  are 
woolen,  silk,  and  cotton  fabrics,  snuff,  play- 
ing-cards, and  chemical  products.  It  has 
two  fairs  annually. 

A  straight  and  handsome  road,  shaded 


WARBURG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY. J 


by  an  avenue  of  limes  three  miles  long, 
leads  to  Wi'heltnfhlhe,  the  Versailles  of 
Germany,  and  summer  residence  of  the 
elector.  Carriage,  C  marks.  l|y  no  means 
quit  Cassc'l  without  visiting  this  lieautiful 
S(>ot.  The  waters  play  every  Wednesday 
ami  Sunday  afternoon.  The  highest  fount- 
ain on  the  Continent  is  here  ;  one  stream, 
12  inches  in  diameter,  is  thrown  to  the 
height  of  200  feet.  This  palace  is  regard- 
ed as  one  of  the  most  magnificent  resi- 
dences in  Europe.  Apart  from  the  im- 
mense amount  spent  on  it,  its  natural  beau- 
ties are  hard  to  match.  The  palace  lies  at 
the  bottom  of  the  hill ;  it  was  occupied  by 
Jerome  Napoleon  while  King  of  Westphalia; 
close  to  it  is  the  theatre  he  built,  and  where 
he  used  to  act.  The  principal  objects  of 
interest  here  are  the  colossal  Hercules  and 
the  Cascade  of  Karlshurg.  The  cascade 
is  900  feet  long,  and  at  its  head  is  the  co- 
lossal statue,  which  stands  on  an  octagon 
building  1300  feet  above  the  river.  The 
figure  is  of  copper,  and  30  feet  high ;  eight 
persons  can  stand  at  one  time  in  the  hol- 
low of  the  club  the  figure  holds  in  his 
hand.  The  view  from  the  statue  is  most 
delightful. 

Eight  miles  from  Cassel  is  the  castle  of 
Wilfielmslhal,  built  by  the  Elector  Wilhelm 
III.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  park,  and 
well  deserves  a  visit. 

Warburg  (population,  4000 ) ;  an  old,  de- 
cayed town,  commanded  by  a  hill,  on 
which  may  be  seen  the  ruins  of  the  castle 
of  Desenberg. 

Xieder-Marsberg  station,  whence  a  dili- 
gence in  three  hours  to  Arolsen,  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Prince  of  Waldeck.  whose  pal- 
ace contains  a  fine  collection  of  antiquities 
from  Pompeii. 

Arnsberg,  an  unimportant  town,  situated 
on  a  hill  nearly  surrounded  by  the  River 
Ruhr.  It  contains  4000  inhabitants,  and 
was  the  former  capital  of  the  ancient  duchy 
of  Westphalia. 

Elberfeld,  described  in  Route  No.  146. 


ROUTE  No.  162. 

Dresden  to  Frankfort -on -the -Main,  via 
Leipzig,  Weimar,  Gotha,  Eisenach,  and 
Fulda.  Time,  11  h.  30  m. ;  fare,  first  class, 
46  marks,  30  pf. 


LEIPZIG. 


Dresden,  described  in  Route  No.  166. 

From  Dresden  to  Leipzig,  in  2  h.  16  m., 
by  express;  fare,  first  class,  11  marks  90 
pf. ;  second  class,  9  marks ;  or  via  Bobein 
and  .\feissen,  4  h.  30  m. ;  there  is  nothing 
specially  to  see  via  the  express  route. 

Nearly  10  miles  from  Dresden  is  the 
Niederau  station,  four  miles  from  which  is 
the  town  of  Meissen  (Hotels,  Ilirsch  and 
Stern),  celebrated  for  its  porcelain  manu- 
factory, where  the  Dresden  china  is  made. 
It  contains  a  population  of  8000  inhabit- 
ants. Above  the  town,  situated  on  a  rock, 
is  the  castle  where  formerly  the  govern- 
ment factonr  of  Dresden  china  was  situ- 
ated. Part  is  now  used  as  a  state  prison, 
and  the  factory  is  at  Triebischtbal,  half  a 
mile  farther  up  the  Elbe.  About  600  work- 
men are  now  employed.  The  factory  is  to 
be  seen  every  day.  Porcelain  wi's  origin- 
ally brought  from  China,  from  which  it 
was  named,  and  was  first  made  in  Europe 
in  the  16th  century  at  this  place.  It  is 
said  to  have  been  first  manufactured  by 
one  Botticher,  a  native  of  Plauen,  an  alche- 
mist of  the  16th  century,  who  accidentally 
discovered  the  art  of  making  it  in  the  course 
of  his  search  for  the  philosopher's  stone. 
During  the  Seven  -  years'  War  this  es- 
tablishment was  nearly  ruined,  Frederick 
the  Great  having  carried  off  its  workmen, 
medals,  and  archives.  The  ware  now  man- 
ufactured does  not  equal  that  of  the  time 
when  the  factory  was  carried  on  by  the 
former  kings.  Near  the  manufactory  is 
the  Cathedral,  which  contains  some  very 
fine  paintings,  also  the  tombs  of  the  early 
Saxon  princes. 

Meissen  is  the  terminus  of  the  mammoth 
tunnel,  twenty-four  miles  long,  being  made 
for  the  purpose  of  draining  the  Freiberg 
silver-mines,  which  have  been  for  ages  the 
source  of  Saxon  wealth. 


Leipziffhas  149, 081  inhabitants.  Huti'l- : 
Ihtufte,  Sedan,  Heller  zum  Bamberger  Jf<>f, 
and  de  Rom-.  Hotel  Hauffe,  is  one  of  the 
finest  houses  in  Germany.  Hotel  Sedan  is 
a  fine,  first-class. IK  wlv-huilt  house  opposite 
the  Thuringian  Station.  IJ<'>t<  I  Heller  zum 
Bamberrjfr  llnf  is  a  good  house  with  mod- 
erate prices.  Hotel  de  Rome,  en  the  Prom- 
enade, near  the  principal  station.  Leipzig 
is  the  second  citv  in  Saxony,  and  one  of 
"  619 


Licir/.ic.. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


LEIPZIG. 


the  most  industrious  and  commercial  cities 
in  Europe.  It  stands  on  a  fertile  plain 
near  the  right  bank  of  the  River  Elster. 
The  traveler  should  ascend  the  tower  of 
the  Pleissenburg,  whence  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  city,  country,  and  whole  of  the 
field  of  the  celebrated  battle  may  be  ob- 
tained. 

Leipzig,  although  a  place  of  great  his- 
torical  celebrity  and   commercial   impor- 
tance, has  not  much  to  detain  the  traveler 
except  during  its  three  fairs,  which  are 
held  here  annually,  one  beginning  on  New- 
year's  day,  the  other  beginning  on  the  first ; 
Sunday  after  Michaelmas,  and  the  last  and  , 
most  important  beginning  the  second  Sun- 
day after  Easter.     During  these  seasons 
the  town  is  very  gay.     Strangers  are  here 
from  all  parts  of  the  world :  Turks  and 
Jews,  Greeks,   Romans,  Armenians,  Per- 
sians, Americans,  and   Hindoos.      While  i 
the  fairs  last  the  hotels  charge  double  their  i 
usual   price,  and  there  are   generally  an 
many  strangers  in  the  city  as  its  popula- 
tion amounts  to.     The  money  transactions 
often  amount  to  80  million  dollars.     Leip- 
zig is  the  centre  of  the  German  book-trade, 
who,  to  the  number  of  between  six  and  j 
seven  hundred,  meet  here  annually  to  bal- 
ance their  accounts,  and  their  sales  often 
amount    to   two   million    dollars    yearh*.  | 
Nearly  every  bookseller  or  publisher  in  | 
Germany  has  an  agency  here.     There  are  ; 
about  130  depots  for  books,  15  steam-press- 
es, and  200  hand-presses.      The  publishers  ; 
have  an  Exchange  of  their  own,  called  the  j 
fluclihaudler-Borse,  where  they  transact  all 
their  business. 

Leipzig  is  the  seat  of  a  University  which 
possesses  a  distinguished  reputation,  and 
has  numerous  literary  and  scicntilic  estab- 
lishments. The  city  was  of  early  origin, 
and  has  often  been  noted  in  connection  with 
the  events  of  modern  history.  Its  Uni- 
versity was  founded  in  the  early  part  of 
the  15th  century,  and  lias  nearly  2000  stu- 
dents; its  buildings  are  very  finely  orna- 
mented. It  is  called  the  Augusteum,  and 
was  completed  in  1836;  back  of  which  arc 
the  Paulinum  and  Puulinerkirche.  This 
last  originally  formed  part  of  the  Domin- 
ican convent.  The  Paulinum  contains 
the  University  Library,  with  300.000  vol- 
umes and  2000  MSS.  Open  every  day  in 
the  week  except  Sunday.  Goethe  studied 
at  this  University,  and  one  of  the  "  lions" 
620 


of  the  place  is  Auerbaeh's  cellar,  where  he 
laid  one  of  his  scenes  in  the  tragedy  of 
1  aust.  In  this  cellar  Mepliistopheles  sup- 
plied the  drunken  students  with  wine  from 
gimlet-holes  bored  in  the  table.  Here  it 
was  Dr.  Faustus  performed  his  feats.  In 
this  cellar  Goethe  himself  held  his  midnight 
orgies  when  a  student  at  the  University. 
-  On  one  side  of  the  picturesque  market- 
place is  the  R'tthhuus,  or  town-hall,  former- 
ly the  residence  of  the  princes  of  Saxony. 
Marshal  Schwarzenberg,  general  of  the 
allied  army,  died  in  it.  It  was  occupied 
by  Napoleon  during  the  battle  of  Leipzig. 
This  battle  was  the  most  famous  occurrence 
in  the  annals  of  the  town,  when  Napoleon 
was  defeated  by  the  combined  armies  of 
Austria,  Russia,  and  Prussia  in  1813,  after 
three  days'  contest,  which  was  deservedly 
designated  "The  Battle  of  Nations."  It 
•was  fought  on  the  16th,  17th,  18th,  and  19th 
•A  October.  Napoleon's  army  amounted 
to  170,000,  and  the  allied  forces  to  300,000. 
Napoleon  left  Leipzig  minus  80,00!)  men ; 
the  loss  of  the  allies  was  about  50,000. 
The  August usplatz  contains  the  very  hand- 
some New  Th-- litre,  finished  in  18G7,  at  an 
expense  of  2,100,000  marks.  It  has  a  fine 
Corinthian  portico.  The  veranda  at  the 
back  overlooks  the  handsome  little  lake  of 
Schwanenteich. 

On  another  side  of  the  Augustusplatz  is 
the  Mus  urn,  finished  in  1858.  It  is  a  very 
handsome  building,  and  contains  a  good 
collection  of  modern  paintings  collected  by 
the  Leipzig  Society  of  Artists.  It  is  open 
free  on  Sunday  from  10.30  to  3 ;  Tuesday, 
Thursday,  and  Saturday,  10  to  4 ;  and 
Monday,  12  to  4. 

On  the  ground  floor  are  the  casts;  to 
the  right  the  exposition  of  the  Society,  and 
to  the  left  the  cartoons  and  other  draw- 
ings. 

On  the  staircase  is  a  medallion  of  Hem- 
rich  Schletter,  the  donor  of  most  of  the 
pictures,  and  to  whom  the  Museum  partly 
owes  its  existence. 

The  first  floor  contains  the  paintings — 
ancient  and  modern  pictures  :  and  as  there 
is  a  good  catalogue  for  sale  (price  7i  gro- 
schens),  it  is  not  necessary  to  give  any  list. 
There  are  fifteen  rooms  in  all. 

On  the  second  floor  there  is  a  fine  col- 
lection of  stamps  and  engravings. 

In  the  garden  of  M.  (ier.inl  is  a  tomb- 
stone erected  to  the  ir.eiiioiy  of  the  brave 


LEIPZIG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY. j 


NACMBCRG. 


Prince  Poniatowski,  who  was  drowned  in 
attempting  to  swim  his  horse  acmss  the 
Elster.  He  had  been  partially  instrument- 
al in  preventing  the  capture  of  Napoleon 
by  covering  his  retreat ;  had  had  his  horse 
shut  under  him,  and  was  seriously  wound- 
ed. The  stream  was  so  filled  with  the 
dead  ainl  dying  men  and  horses  that  the 
miserable  steed  on  which  he  was  mounted 
was  unable  to  push  his  way  through,  and 
horse  and  rider  both  sank.  He  had  been 
made  a  Marshal  of  France  three  days  be- 
fore by  Napoleon.  The  brave  Macdonald 
crossed  at  the  same  place,  and  was  saved. 
There  is  a  model  of  Thorwaldsen's  statue 
of  him  here.  There  are  two  other  monu- 
ments erected  here  in  connection  with  the 
battle — one  where  the  three  allied  sover- 
eigns met.  and  another  to  the  memory  of 
Marshal  Schwarzenberg.  The  walks  and 
gardens  around  the  city  walls  are  very  in- 
teresting, and  the  park  of  Rosentha'.  is  much 
frequented  during  the  summer  months,  to 
listen  to  the  free  concerts  given  in  the 
cafes. 

Leipzig  has  a  large  wool-market,  which 
is  held  here  in  May  :  it  also  has  extensive 
manufactures  of  silken  fabrics,  hosiery, 
leather,  and  oil-cloths,  playing-cards,  to- 
bacco, gold  and  silver  articles,  snuff",  choco- 
late, liquors,  and  musical  instruments,  with 
numerous  printing,  engraving,  and  wool- 
spinning  establishments.  In  the  publish- 
ers' catalogue  issued  during  the  fair  there 
are  often  from  4000  to  5000  new  books  an- 
nounced. 

An  excursion  might  be  made  to  the  res- 
idence of  Baron  Speck,  live  miles  from  the 
city.  His  gallery  contains  some  very  fine 
paintings  ;  among  them  is  a  Madonna  and 
Child  by  Murillo. 

The  former  citadel  of  Pleissenburg,  now 
a  barrack,  has  a  high  tower  from  whence 
a  fine  view  of  the  battle-field  can  be  ob- 
tained. 

The  church  of  St.  Nicholas  dates  from 
the  12th  century  ;  two  of  its  towers  are  of 
the  same  date,  the  other  two  date  from 
1555. 

<  >n  the  promenade  is  a  bronze  sitting 
statue  of  Samuel  Hahnemann*  the  founder 
of  the  system  of  homoeopathy,  born  in 
Mei-sen  in  17")5.  and  died  in  Paris  in  1843. 

A  stone  monument,  in  the  form  of  a  sar- 
cophagus, erected  in  memory  of  Poniatow- 
ski by  his  friend  General  Poe/.niska,  stands 


near  the  spot  where  the  brave  Pole  was 
drowned. 

Beyond  the  Milch-Insel  gardens  is  ths 
Kugel  Denkma',  erected  in  1845  in  memory 
of  the  battle  of  Leipzig,  near  which  is  the 
Schiitz  nhnus — a  large  music-hall,  with  gar- 
dens. 

There  is  a  fine  Gymnastic  Establishment 
in  the  Turnerstrasse,  which  cost  the  city 
120,000  marks,  which  deserves  to  be  seen. 
It  was  erected  in  1863. 

There  are  five  different  railway  stations 
in  Leipzig,  from  whence  lines  run  north, 
south,  east,  and  west,  and  five  lines  of 
American  tramways  running  in  every  di- 
rection. 

A  metal  ticket  is  handed  to  the  traveler 
when  he  arrives  at  a  station,  indicating  the 
number  of  cab  to  which  he  is  entitled, 

Kit  zing  $  Helbig's  Restaurant,  the  finest 
in  Leipzig,  19  Peterstrasse,  is  noted  for  its 
cuisine  and  excellent  wines. 

Proceeding  on  the  route  to  Weimar, 
Corbetha  junction  is  passed,  five  miles 
west  of  which  was  the  scene  of  a  great  vic- 
tory of  Frederick  the  Great  over  the  French 
and  Austrians,  Nov.  5, 1757. 

About  20  miles  from  Leipzig  is  the  town 
of  Weitsenfek,  containing  about  11,000  in- 
habitants. Napoleon  slept  here  the  night 
after  the  battle  of  Leipzig.  On  the  height 
above  the  town  is  the  Castle,  which  was 
formerly  the  residence  of  the  dukes  of 
Weissenfels.  It  is  rendered  more  famous 
from  the  fact  that  Gustavus  Adolphus,  king 
of  Sweden,  was  brought  here  from  the  bat- 
tle of  Liitzen.  where  he  was  killed  in  1633. 
He  was  embalmed  in  a  room  in  the  castle, 
and  his  blood  is  still  shown  on  the  wall. 
His  heart,  which,  it  is  said,  weighed  one 
pound  and  two  ounces,  was  conveyed  to 
Stockholm  by  his  widowed  queen. 

Eight  miles  from  Weissenfels  and 
Xnnmburg  station  is  reached;  the  town  is 
some  distance  off,  and  contains  15,000  in- 
habitants. Hotel,  Sack.  The  Cathedral 
dates  from  the  13th  century,  and  contains 
some  fine  sculptures  of  an  early  date.  It 
contains  some  singular  monuments  and 
stained-glass  windows.  The  Skidtkirche 
contains  a  picture  by  Cranach  of  Christ 
blessing  little  children. 

Naumburg  is  a  place  of  considerable  his- 
toric importance.  It  was  here  that  Napo- 
leon turned  the  flunk  of  the  Prussian  army, 
resulting  in  his  great  victorv  at  -'cna.  The 
C21 


WEIMAR. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


ERFURT. 


possession  of  the  town  was  hotly  contested 
by  the  French  after  the  defeat  of  Leipzig. 

Weimar. — This  charming  town  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Ilm,  in  the  midst  of  beautiful 
groves  and  handsome  grounds  ;  its  popula- 
tion is  15,000.  Principal  hotels  are  Rus- 
sicher  Hof  and  //.  Erbprinz.  There  are 
few  things  here  to  detain  the  traveler  any 
length  of  time.  It  possesses,  however,  a  | 
great  interest  as  the  residence  of  some  of  | 
the  most  distinguished  literary  men  of 
Germany,  drawn  thither  by  the  enlighten- 
ed patronage  of  the  grand-duke.  Among 
the  great  names  thus  connected  with  it  are 
those  of  Schiller,  Goethe,  Herder,  and  \Vie- 
land.  Weimar  has  no  trade  or  manufact- 
ures of  any  importance,  but  its  literary 
and  scientific  establishments  surpass  those 
of  places  of  much  larger  size  and  vastly 
greater  commercial  importance.  It  was 
formerly  called  the  Athens  of  Germany ;  its 
groves  alone  certainly  remind  one  of  the 
academic  groves  of  ancient  Athens  (there 
are  no  groves  there  now,  nor  any  shade 
save  that  presented  by  stunted,  mildewed 
olive-trees). 

The  sights  to  be  seen  are  the  grand-ducal 
Palace,  which  is  a  handsome  structure ;  it 
contains  some  fine  modern  frescoes,  illus- 
trating the  works  of  Weimar's  greatest 
poets.  In  one  of  the  rooms  is  kept  the  ar- 
mor and  one  of  the  thumbs  of  the  Grand- 
Duke  Bernard,  one  of  the  Protestant  lead- 
ers in  the  Thirty -Years'  War.  His  body 
is  buried  in  the  StadtMrche.  Adjacent  to 
the  palace  is  the  Public  Library,  which 
contains  busts  of  Goethe,  Schiller,  Herder, 
and  Wieland ;  also  numerous  relics  of  Lu- 
ther and  others.  The  Stadtkirche  con- 
tains a  fine  painting  by  Lucas  Cranach: 
it  represents  the  Crucifixion,  and  is  con- 
sidered one  of  his  very  best  works.  In 
front  of  the  church  stand  bronze  statues  of 
Herder  and  Schiller.  The  interior  of  the 
church  contains  Herder's  remains.  This 
church  was  also  the  burial-place  for  the 
members  of  the  ducal  family.  The  house 
of  Goethe  has  been  hired  by  his  heirs,  and 
can  not  now  be  seen  except  on  Fridays. 
Schiller's  house  has  been  purchased  by  the 
town,  and  can  be  visited  daily ;  one  will 
here  find  a  collection  of  numerous  relics 
of  the  great  poet.  There  are  statues  of 
Goethe  and  Schiller  by  Rietschel  in  the 
Theaterplatz. 

Out  of  the  town  is  the  New  Church-yard, 
622 


which  contains  the  present  grand-ducal 
burial-vault.  Here  i-eposc  the  bodies  of 
the  poets  Goethe  and  Schiller.  Here  also 
lies  the  body  of  their  friend  and  patron, 
the  late  grand-duke.  It  was  his  desire 
that  the  poets  should  lie  on  either  side  of 
him,  but  courtly  etiquette  forbade  the 
proximity.  This  church-yard  is  a  sweet 
place  to  visit  on  a  bright  summer  morn- 
ing, the  air  made  fragrant  by  the  opening 
rose-buds,  and  all  nature  still  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  musical  warbling  of  the 
birds  and  the  humming  of  the  bees.  Some 
of  the  monuments  are  perfect  gems  of  art. 
Here  may  be  seen  an  admirable  arrange- 
ment to  prevent  the  accident  of  premature 
burial  in  cr.ses  of  suspended  animation. 
In  a  dark  chamber,  lighted  with  a  small 
lamp,  the  body  lies  in  a  coffin ;  in  its  fin- 
gers are  placed  strings,  which  communi- 
cate with  an  alarm-clock ;  the  least  pulsa- 
tion of  the  corpse  will  ring  the  bell  in  an 
adjoining  chamber,  where  a  person  is  placed 
to  watch,  when  medical  attendance  is  at 
once  supplied.  There  have  been  several 
cases  where  persons  supposed  to  be  dead 
were  thus  saved  from  premature  interment. 

About  twelve  miles  southeast  of  Weimar 
is  the  town  of  Jena,  famous  as  the  scene 
of  one  of  Napoleon's  greatest  victories  over 
the  Prussians  in  1806.  It  contains  StiOO 
inhabitants.  Hotel,  Sonne.  It  possesses  a 
celebrated  University,  which  has  number- 
ed some  of  the  most  eminent  men  of  the 
present  and  preceding  centuries  among 
its  professors.  To  reach  the  battle-field  go 
by  railway  to  Apoldu,  from  which  place 
there  is  a  diligence  in  1  h.  30  m. 

Erfurt,  finely  situated  on  the  Werra. 
Population,  43,760.  Hotels  are  //.  Zum 
Kaiser  and  //.  Silber.  This  is  an  old  and 
well-built  town,  strongly  fortified,  and  of 
considerable  commercial  importance.  It 
contains  a  garrison  of  4500.  It  was  a 
member  of  the  Hanseatic  League,  and  be- 
longed to  the  Elector  of  Mayence  up  to 
1802 ;  then  to  Prussia  until  1806.  For  the 
following  eight  years  it  remained  in  pos- 
session of  France,  since  which  time  to 
Prussia.  Its  University  was  suppressed  in 
1816.  The  principal  edifice  is  the  Cathe- 
dral, which  dates  from  the  12th  century. 
It  possesses  a  famous  bell,  called  Grosse 
Sus'inna-,  weighing  275  cwt.  The  church 
contains  some  pictures  and  very  fine  mon- 
uments. The  painted  glass  is  also  very 


GOTHA. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.! 


ElSEXAi-Il. 


good.      The  leading  object  of  interest,  how-  ! 
ever,  in  the  town  is  the   orphan   asylum. 
occupying  the  Augustine  convent  of  which 
Luther  was  a  member.     One  of  the  apart- 
ments   contains    his    Bible,   portrait,  and 
other  relics.     The  two  churches,  Prediger-  \ 
1-ircheandBaarfusserkirche,  are  well  worth  i 
a  visit.     It  has  now  a  Protestant  and  Ro- 
man Catholic  school,  gymnasia,  a  normal 
school,  an  academy  of  sciences,  a  museum,  i 
botanical  gardens,  and  a  public  library  of 
20,000  volumes.     It  has  extensive  manu- 
factories of  woolen  and  cotton  cloths,  shoes, 
leather,  and  vinegar.      In  1808  the  memor- 
able interview  between  Napoleon  and  Alex- 
ander, emperor  of  Russia,  here  took  place. 

Gotha — conjointly  with  Coburg,  the  res- 
idence of  the  sovereign  prince  of  the  Duchy 
of  Saxe  -  Coburg  -  Gotha  —  is  beautiful- 
ly situated  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill,  the 
summit  of  which  is  crowned  by  the  palace 
of  Friedenstein.  It  contains  a  population 
of  20,000  inhabitants.  Principal  hotels  are  j 
Deutschtr  I/of,  Miinchener,  and  Stadt  Co- 
burg. This  capital  has  become  familiar  to 
American  ears  from  the  relationship  ex- 
isting between  its  reigning  sovereign  and 
England's  mistress — the  duke's  younger 
brother,  the  late  Prince  Albert,  having 
married  Queen  Victoria. 

Nature  and  art  have  made  this  city  as 
fair  a  capital  in  miniature  as  can  well  be 
imagined.  It  is  one  of  the  best  laid  out 
and  best  built  towns  in  Germany,  and  sur- 
rounded by  handsome  boulevards,  which 
replace  its  ancient  fortifications.  The  sit- 
uation is  beautiful,  and  the  climate  exceed- 
ingly healthy.  The  scenery  around  it  is 
varied,  pleasing,  romantic,  and  interesting. 
Within,  all  the  literary,  religious,  and  sci- 
entific institutions,  such  as  museums  of 
natural  history  and  the  tine  arts,  Japanese 
and  Chinese  museum,  picture  -  galleries, 
seven  churches,  a  large  number  of  chari- 
table institutions,  such  as  orphan  and  lu- 
natic asylums,  institutions  for  the  improve- 
ment of  neglected  children,  and  others 
which  distinguish  larger  cities,  are  to  be 
met  with,  as  well  as  all  the  amusements, 
and  all  the  arrangements  for  convenience 
and  comfort,  and  for  cheapness  of  living, 
which  are  generally  found  only  in  first- 
class  cities. 

The  palace  of  Friedtnstein,  which  con- 
tains the  picture  -gallery  and  museums,  is 
open  to  the  public  on  Tuesday  and  Friday 


from  April  1  to  October  31  gratis,  and  on 
other  days  the  fee  is  one  thaler  for  a 
party.  In  the  picture-gallery  there  are 
several  fine  paintings  by  Rembrandt,  Ru- 
bens, Van  Eyck.  Holbein,  and  Van  der 
Heist.  In  the  Knit  tkmnmer  are  many 
valuable  relics,  among  others  the  swords 
of  Charlemagne  and  John  Sobieski.  a  pray- 
er-book of  James  I.,  and  a  ring  of  Mary 
Stuart.  The  library,  Japanese  and  Chinese 
museums,  and  museum  of  natural  histo- 
ry, are  all  in  the  same  building.  The  col- 
lection of  medals  and  coins  is  considered 
one  of  the  first  in  Europe. 

The  theatre  is  a  fine  building,  but  open 
only  in  winter.  Close  to  it  is  the  monu- 
ment of  Anio'di,  founder  of  the  life  and 
lire  insurance  companies  in  the  town. 

The  D  Tid  Palace  contains  some  good 
pictures. 

The  "  Almanach  de  Gotha"  is  the  title  of 
a  small  book  published  here,  which  gives 
you  the  pedigree  of  all  the  crowned  heads 
in  Europe.  Gotha  has  a  large  manufac- 
tory of  porcelain,  and  does  considerable 
trade  in  linen,  woolen,  and  cotton  fabrics. 
Among  other  branches  of  its  trade  is  that 
of  Gotha  sausages,  which  are  very  fine,  and 
are  sent  to  all  parts  of  Germany.  It  also 
does  a  large  business  in  lacquered  ware  of 
all  kinds.  A  corner-house  in  the  market- 
place, now  a  school  for  girls,  was  the  resi- 
dence of  the  celebrated  painter  Crunack, 
and  bears  his  device,  a  winged  serpent 

Omnibuses  daily  (in  2  hrs.  30  m.)  to  the 
great  cloth  manufacturing  town  ofLangen- 
sa'z-i,  noted  for  the  battle  between  the 
Hanoverians  and  Prussians  in  June,  1866. 
Near  the  town  are  sulphur  baths. 

Eisenach,  the  capital  of  Saxc-Weimar- 
Eisenach,  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Xessa  and  Horsel,  and  contains  13,000 
inhabitants.  It  was  formerly  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  manufacturing  towns  be- 
tween Leipzig  and  Frankfort.  Its  hotels 
are  H.  Raute-nkranz  and  //.  Htilbe  Aland. 
It  is  the  principal  town  in  the  Thuringian 
forest,  and  has  been  rendered  famous  from 
the  fact  of  Martin  Luther  having  been  de- 
tained a  prisoner  in  its  C<i.«t'i'  qfWartbmy, 
which  is  situated  about  1J  miles  south  of 
the  tov:n. 

On  the  4th  of  March,  l.Vjl.  as  Luther 

was  returning  to  his  home  from  the  Diet 

of  Worms,  where,  in  defiance  of  all  threats 

and  the  Pope's  excommunication,  he  had 

623 


EISENACH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


COBCRG. 


boldly  proclaimed  the  Protestant  religion, 
as  he  was  entering  the  borders  of  the 
wood  his  party  was  attacked  by  a  body  of 
armed  knights  and  dispersed  ;  he  alone 
was  made  prisoner.  He  was  conducted  to 
the  castle  of  Wartburg,  where  he  discov- 
ered the  whole  affair  had  been  managed  by 
the  order  of  his  friend  the  Elector  of  Saxony, 
who  was  present  at  the  Diet  when  he  left. 
Although  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  had  giv- 
en Luther  assurance  of  safe-conduct,  a  de- 
cree for  his  arrest  was  instantly  sent  after 
him,  and  his  sentence  of  death  decided  on. 
The  Elector's  band  reached  him  before  the 
warrant  of  arrest,  and  he  was  carried  in 
secret  to  Wartburg,  where  he  remained  for 
ten  months.  He  cultivated  mustaches, 
and  passed  at  the  castle  for  a  j'oung  noble- 
man, thus  screened  by  the  friendly  Elect- 
or of  Saxony  until  the  first  fury  of  the 
storm  had  passed.  The  chamber  which 
Luther  occupied  in  the  castle  contains  his 
portrait  and  that  of  his  father  and  mother. 
This  room  was  the  scene  of  his  conflict 
with  Satan.  There  is  an  absurd  story  told 
and  believed  that  the  Evil  One  appeared 
before  him  gnashing  his  teeth  and  threat- 
ening him  with  vengeance,  whereupon  Lu- 
ther, who  had  defeated  his  foes  with  pen 
and  ink,  thought  he  would  try  the  ink 
alone  on  the  devil,  and,  seizing  the  ink- 
stand, he  hurled  it  with  all  his  power  at 
the  head  of  his  satanic  majesty,  hitting  his 
—  imagination  and  the  wall,  making  a 
greater  impression  on  the  latter  than  Satan 
did  on  the  former.  The  hole  in  the  wall  is 
now  shown  to  the  traveler. 

In  another  part  of  the  castle  is  the  pict- 
ure of  St.  Elizabeth  of  Thuringia,  former- 
ly a  resident  of  the  Wartburg,  whose  hus- 
band was  as  hard-hearted  as  she  was  kind 
and  charitable  to  the  poor.  On  one  occa- 
sion, when  she  had  her  apron  filled  with 
food  which  ?he  was  about  to  bestow  on  the 
hungry,  her  husl:and  caught  her  in  the 
act,  and,  demanding  what  she  had  in  her 
apron,  she  replied, "  Flowers ;"  when,  think- 
ing to  detect  her  in  a  falsehood,  he  tore 
open  her  apron,  and,  lo  and  behold !  the 
bread  and  cheese  were  transformed  into 
roses  and  lilies.  She  stands  in  the  pict- 
ure as  if  trembling  for  fear  they  will 
change  again.  In  another  part  of  the  cas- 
tle are  some  beautiful  suits  of  armor ;  con- 
spicuous among  these  is  that  of  the  rob- 
ber-knight Kunz,  of  Kaufungen,  who  was 
624 


of  gigantic  stature:  he  was  beheaded  at 
Freiberg  for  kidnapping  two  young  Sax- 
on princes.  Also  that  of  the  Connetable  de 
Bourbon,  who  was  slain  while  taking  Rome 
by  assault;  and  those  of  the  two  Saxon 
princesses  Agnes  and  Kunegunde. 

A  fine  excursion  can  be  made  to  the 
valley  of  Annatka!,  sonic  parts  of  which 
are  only  three  feet  wide !  Three  miles 
from  the  valley  is  the  Chateau  of  \\'ihe:ms- 
tfni'.  The  return  may  be  made  by  Ruhla, 
a  small  but  lovely  watering-place. 

[From  Eisenach  an  excursion  can  be 
made  to  Coburg.  Time,  3  h.  30  m. :  fare, 
first  class,  12  marks  4  g. ;  second  class,  7 
marks  6  g. 

One  and  a  half  hours  from  Eisenach  the 
watering-place  of 

Salzttng  n  K  reached.  This  town  is  fine- 
ly situated  in  the  valley  of  the  \Vtrra.  It 
possesses  salt  baths  and  an  establishment 
for  inhalation  of  the  vapor. 

At  Immelborn  station  a  diligence  runs  in 
forty  minutes  to  the  baths  of  Liebensti-in. 

Wernshausen  is  the  station  for  the  an- 
cient town  of  Schmalkalden,  where  the  Prot- 
estant League  was  drawn  up  by  Luther, 
Melanchthon,  and  other  Reformers. 

Wasu/igen,  situated  on  the  River  Werra, 
is  an  industrial  town,  and  possesses  an  old 
chateau. 

Passing  the  ducal  C/ist'e  of  LanJskrg.  on 
the  right 

M<-ining  n  is  reached.  This  town  con- 
tains 8250  inhabitants.  Principal  hotel, 
Sdchsischer  Hof.  This  is  the  capital  of 
the  Duchy  of  Saxe  -  Meiningen,  and  the 
residence  of  the  duke.  It  consists  of  an 
old  and  new  town.  The  Schloss  in  the 
old  town  is  used  for  government  offices, 
collections  of  natural  history,  modern  and 
ancient  paintings,  and  a  collection  of  en- 
gravings. The  present  duke  lives  in  a 
new  palace,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  fine 
park.  The  church  attached  to  the  palace 
has  some  fine  stained-glass  windows,  ex- 
ecuted in  Munich. 

r-A$*\ngHildbiirgkausen,  the  former  resi- 
dence of  the  dukes  of  Saxe-Hildliurghau- 
sen.  we  arrive  at  Coburf/.  Hotels,  f.eut- 
haiisfr.  rictori:i.  and  Traube.  Population, 
12,750.  This  town,  with  Gotha,  are  the 
town  residences  of  the  present  Duke  of 
Saxo-Coburg-Gotha.  It  occupies  a  beau- 
tiful position  in  the  valley  of  the  Itz,  an 
affluent  of  the  Main,  and  is  a  clean  and 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


FRANKFORT. 


pleasant  town.  Its  former  ramparts  have 
tciven  place  to  elegant  villas  surrounded 
by  pretty  gardens. 

Tli'-  •-<''<  Oti,  or  Khrenburg.  was  originul- 
1\-  a  nmna.-tery.  changed  into  a  ducal  resi- 
dence by  Duke  Ernest  I.  in  154i».  His 
statue.  I iy  Schwa  <tha!< •/•.  stands  in  front  of 
the  palace.  Tliere  are  several  line  pictures 
here  in  addition  to  numerous  portraits — 
Qut't-n  Victoria,  Prince  Albert,  and  others; 
one  apartment  is  devoted  to  gobelin  tapes- 
try. From  the  guard-house  the  traveler 
ascends  by  steps  to  the  Schlossgurten,  which 
extends  along  the  slope  of  the  hill,  the  sum- 
mit of  which  is  crowned  by  the  old  Castle, 
nearly  six  hundred  feet  above  the  town. 
and  still  in  good  repair.  It  was  the  former 
residence  of  the  Saxon  dukes  until  Ernest 
rebuilt  the  Srhloss.  A  portion  of  it  is  now 
used  as  a  Museum  of  Art  and  Antiquities. 
The  custodian  expects  a  florin  (two  marks) 
for  a  party. 

In  the  centre  of  the  city,  in  the  market- 
place, where  the  Rnthhatis.  Arsenal,  and 
(lorernment  ln.ildings  stand,  a  statue  of 
Prince  Albert  was  Inaugurated  in  18G5,  in 
presence  of  Queen  Victoria  of  England. 

The  tht'itre  is  owned  by  the  prince,  and 
is  well  managed. 

The  diike  lias  numerous  country-houses, 
two  of  which  are  near  Gotha,  viz.,  Kallcn- 
Ixr;/  and  /,'iwn-tn,  both  surrounded  by 
splendidly  wooded  grounds.  It  was  in  the 
latter  that  Albert,  Prince-Consort  of  En- 
gland, was  born  in  1^9,  and  here  Queen 
Victoria  of  England  has  resided  during 
various  visits. 

A  branch  railway  leads  to  Sonncberg,  a 
town  of  6000  inhabitants,  noted  for  its 
manufactories  of  dolls  and  other  toys,  boys' 
marbles,  hoiv.-s  for  sharpening  razors,  etc. 

Licktenfelt  junction,  a  town  of  2000  in- 
habitants, devoted  to  the  lumber  trade. 
This  is  the  junction  of  the  line  from  Frank- 
fort to  Carlsbad,  by  Eger,  etc.] 

At  Jtebrn  junction  the  line  turns  to  the 
north  to  Cass,.l  (^see  Index),  and  south  to 
Futiln,  a  town  of  10,500  inhabitants,  with 
nothing  to  detain  the  traveler. 

<!•  Inhtinstn  station,  an  ancient  town  of 
the  empire.  On  an  island  in  the  Kinzig 
stand  the  ruins  of  a  palace  erected  in  llt>l. 
Sixteen  years  later  the  Emperor  Harha- 
rossa  here  held  a  grand  council  to  pro- 
nounce the  imperial  ban  against  Henry  the 
Lion. 


Passing  Longfnsalbad  station,  where 
there  is  a  chateau,  bought  by  Dom  Miguel 
of  Portugal  in  1850.  Near  this  station  is 
the  battle-field  \\  here  the  French  gained  a 
victory  over  the  allies  after  their  retreat 
from  Leipzig.  The  Russians,  Austrians, 
and  Bavarians  attempted  to  interrupt  the 
retreating  French  arm}',  but  they  were 
completely  routed,  and  lost  large  numbers 
in  killed  and  wounded. 

/fund'/,  a  manufacturing  town  of  20,000 
inhabitants,  situated  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Main  and  Kinzig.  It  was  founded  by 
Protestants  from  Holland,  to  whom  an 
asylum  had  been  refused  at  Frankfort. 
The}-  have  carried  on  for  centuries  the 
manufacture  of  silk  and  woolen  goods,  also 
silver-ware. 

Frankfort  oit  the  -  Main  (described  in 
Route  163). 


ROUTE  No.  163. 

Frankfort  'edberfj  and 

Gifssen.  Time,  4  li.  1.'?  m.  •  fare,  lirst  class, 
18  marks,  or  9  fl.  27  kr.  ;  second  class,  1:! 
marks  30  pf. 

Fruidforf  was  formerly  a  free  city  of 
Gt  nnany,  but,  owing  to  the  fortunes  of 
war.  was  annexed  to  the  kingdom  of  Prus- 
sia October  8, 18GG.  It  is  situated  on  the 
025 


FitANKFORT. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


right  bank  of  tho  River  Main.  Population, 
149,309.  Hotel  d'Anykterre,  a  first-class 
house,  of  European  reputation. 

Frankfort  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  cit- 
ies of  Germany.  Charlemagne  had  a  pal- 
ace'here,  and  held  a  council  within  its  walls 
in  794,  and  a  century  later  it  became  the 
commercial  capital  of  Germany.  In  the 
year  1154  it  became  a  free  city  and  the 
sent  of  the  German  Diet,  remaining  such 
until  1866.  It  is  noted  for  the  wealth  of  its 
merchants,  and  for  their  commercial  trans- 
actions, their  banking  operations,  and  their 
speculations  in  the  funds.  It  is  the  native 
place  of  the  Rothschild  family,  one  of 
whom  has  a  beautiful  villa  near  the  city. 
The  house  in  which  the  great  banker  was 
born  is  shown  ;  it  is  situated  in  the  Judm- 
ga'sse  (Jews'  Street),  No.  148.  The  bank- 
ing-house is  now  situated  at  the  corner  of 
Zeil  and  Judengasse.  One  side  of  the 
last-named  street  was  pulled  down  in  1872, 
and  the  quarter  is  beginning  to  assume  an 
air  of  modern  times.  The  city  is  connect- 
ed with  the  suburb  of  Sachsenhausen  by 
an  ancient  stone  bridge  of  fourteen  arches, 
950  feet  long  and  11  broad.  Its  former  for- 
tifications were  demolished  by  the  French, 
and  are  now  used  as  gardens  and  prome- 
nades. The  residences  of  the  principal 
bankers  and  merchants  are  on  the  most 
magnificent  scale,  nearly  all  possessing  a 
very  good  collection  of  pictures  and  stat- 
uary. The  banks  of  the  Main  are  lined 
•with  spacious  quaj's,  and  the  streets  in  the 
interior  of  the  town  have  been  widened  and 
much  improved.  A  fine  new  street  has  been 
opened  from  the  Rossmarkt  (the  principal 
square)  to  the  Neue  Mainzerstrasse ;  on 
this  the  new  hotel  is  situated.  The  city 
has  two  annual  fairs,  which  are  much  fre- 
quented for  commercial  purposes. 

The  Cathedral,  or  Djm,  is  an  ancient  edi- 
fice of  Gothic  architecture ;  its  tower,  which 
is  still  unfinished,  is  260  feet  high ;  it  is 
said  to  have  been  commenced  in  the  13th 
century.  One  of  the  principal  monuments 
it  contains  is  that  of  the  Emperor  Giinther, 
who  was  killed  by  his  rival,  Charles  IV. ; 
also  that  of  Rudolph  of  Sachsenhausen. 
rn  the  election  chapel  all  the  emperors  of 
German}',  from  Conrad  I.  to  Francis  II., 
aiter  being  elected,  were  crowned  in  front 
of  the  high-altar. 

The  Komer,  or  Town-hall,  is  noted  only 
for  being  the  scene  of  festivities  subse- 
G2C 


FRANKFORT. 

1  quent  to  the  election  of  the  emperor.  Here, 
in  the  liauqueting-hall,  he  was  entertained, 
and  kings  and  princes  and  the  greatest 
nobles  of  the  land  waited  on  him  at  table. 
Opposite  the  hall,  in  the  market-place,  an 
ox  was  roasted  whole,  from  which  the  em- 
peror ate  a  slice,  and  a  fountain  ran  with 
wine,  from  which  the  cup-bearer  filled  his 
glass.  The  banqucting-hall  is  decorated 
with  portraits  of  all  the  emperors,  forty -six 
in  number.  In  the  election  chamber  may 
be  seen  the  "Golden  Bull,"  by  which  the 
Emperor  Charles  IV.  arranged  the  manner 
of  conducting  the  elections  of  future  em- 
perors. Fee,  1  mark.  Behind  the  Town- 
hall,  in  St.  Paul's  Square,  is  situated  the 
church  of  St.  Paul,  where  in  1848  the  sit- 
tings of  the  National  German  Assembly 
were  held,  also  the  Horse,  or  Exchange,  a 
fine  building,  erected  by  Stieler  in  1844. 
The  Exchange  is  open  from  12  to  2.80. 

The  Stwlel  Museum  and  Academy  of 
Painting  (so  named  after  its  founder,  a 
rich  banker  and  citizen,  who,  in  1810,  be- 
queathed $400,000,  in  addition  to  a  large 
collection  of  pictures  and  engravings,  for 
its  foundation)  is  a  handsome  building, 
and  is  open  daily  from  10  to  1,  Saturdays 
excepted  :  admission  gratis.  Some  of  the 
modern  pictures  are  very  fine,  particularly 
those  by  Dutch  and  Flemi>h  masters.  Cat- 
alogue costs  CO  pf.  At  the  entrance  are 
busts  of  Raphael  and  Albert  Dtirer.  The 
rooms  to  your  left  on  entering  contain 
c.ists  of  antiques.  Xcxt  the  /•'/•<, -YYWW', 
on  the  ceiling  of  which  is  a  fresco -by  Vat 
and  llessemer,  representing  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  fine  arts  into  Germany.  Here 
are  casts  of  Ghiberti's  bronze  doors  of  the 
Baptistery  at  Florence.  Among  the  Italian 
pictures  are  the  Four  Fathers  of  the  Latin 
Church  at  the  Throne  of  the  Virgin,  by 
Moretto,  which  cost  35,000  florins.  There 
are  catalogues  in  each  room. 

Another  sight  of  Frankfort  is  Danneck- 
er's  statue  of  Ariadne  seated  on  a  tiger.  It 
is  in  the  villa  of  M.  Bethman,  and  is  con- 
sidered by  many  judges  one  of  the  most 
perfect  productions  of  modern  art.  Out- 
side of  the  Friedberg  gate  is  situated  the 
colossal  mass  of  granite  rocks  grouped  to- 
gether in  memory  of  the  Hessians  who  fell 
defending  Frankfort,  the  whole  surmount- 
ed by  a  military  device  cast  from  cannon 
taken  from  the  French.  It  was  erected  by 
the  King  of  Prussia.  St.  George's  Hos- 


FRAN 


Hat 


FORT. 


9  J>en*mat(arl  tiffr 

10  DcnimaJ  GoetJtt* 

11  Dcnkm.Guttenterg's 


L".'  I'auls  Kirohe. 
23  Pcrman 

!\-<<-rx  Kircfie, 
25  /W 

brni-,  Sirche 
-  "  fu  -/arm.  KircAc  <  /'.  • 
2b  Ronicr 

29  SaaUuff' 

30  Stnkentery's 

31  Statkl'j-  JnttaU. 

32  S?  l*0nktin£f  Kirch 
33 


35  TufTianftalt, 

36  1i 

31  Hrcuirfirulf!n>  J&rrAc- 


aid-Book 


FRANKFORT. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF   GERMANY. J 


pital,  the  Public  Library,  and  the  Senken- 
lnTic  MtiM'um  of  Natural  History,  are  all 
well  worth  a  visit.  In  front  of  th  •  theatre 
(a  very  fair  one)  is  a  monumental  statue 
erected  to  the  poet  Goethe,  who  was  born 
in  r'ra;;kfort.  The  house  is  No.  71  in  the 
Hirsehgraben,  and  has  his  father's  coat  of 
anus — three  /yns — over  the  door.  It  con- 
t-iins  an  mt<;Kst\ng,CollectionofCni-iosities. 
'  pf.  ;  Wednesday  free.  Goethe  was 
born  here  August  2*.  17-11'.  A  magnificent 
bronze  statue  of  Schiller  was  erected  on 
Schillerplatz  in  1864. 

The  monument  to  Gutmbirg  is  situated 
on  the  Kossmarkt.  It  was  erected  in  1858 
by  Launit/.  The  central  figure,  with  the 
types  in  his  left  hand,  is  Gutenberg;  on 
his  right  Fust,  and  left  Scluijfer.  On  the 
frieze  are  likenesses  of  celebrated  printers, 
and  in  the  four  niches  the  arms  of  the  four 
towns— Mayeiu-e.  Frankfort,  Venice,  and 
Strasburg — where  printing  was  tirst  prac- 
ticed. 

A  magnificent  new  Opera  House,  some- 
what resembling  the  Grand  Opera  at  Paris, 
was  opened  in  1881 ;  it  should  be  visited,  as 
the  troupe  is  one  of  the  best  in  Germany. 

The  house  in  the  Domplatz  where  Luther 
lived  is  pointed  out. 

The  ancient  fortifications  of  Frankfort 
have  been  converted  into  Public  Gardens, 
which  are  one  of  the  greatest  attractions  in 
the  city.  During  the  summer  fine  bands 
play  twice  daily,  at  four  and  at  eight  o'clock, 
at  the  Zoological,  and  I 'aim  Gardens.  The 
last  is  so  named  from  a  splendid  collec- 
tion of  palm-trees,  formerly  belonging  to 
the  Duke  of  Nassau,  and  purchased  by  the 
city. 

The  o'd  and  jt<>/'  r< •«</<}•/«•.•.-,  about  •_'-?.- 
miles  from  the  Friedbcrg  gate,  well  •: 
a  visit.  They  are  situated  in  a  clririnin^ 
position  and  contain  some  line  monuments. 
Notice  particularly  that  of  the  Bethman 
family,  by  Th  iriral'lui  n. 

In  the  .Jewish  burying-groiind  there  is  a 
beautiful  monument,  erected  to  the  memory 
v>f . \in.-chel  Meyer  Rothschild,  the  founder 
cf  the  great  banking-house. 

A  visit  should  lie  made  to  the  Imperial 
Chocola'e  Manufactory  of  Stollwerck  Ki  L, 
of  Coloirnr.  the  greatest  establishment  in 
<Jermany  (l.'di  workmen  and  six  engines 
of  SCO  horse-power :  eighteen  court  diplo- 
mas and  nineteen  lir>t  medals)  ;  has  a  very 
liue  salesroom  at  No.  3  Bockenheirnerstras- 


HOMBURG. 

se,  which  nobody  should  fail  to  visit.  The 
prices  are  fixed,  anil  low  in  comparison 
with  those  of  America  and  England. 

Under  the  Frankfurter  I/of  is  the  Uni- 
versal Reise  -  Bureau,  where  railway  and 
opera  tickets,  guides,  money-exchange,  and 
numerous  conveniences  may  be  procured. 

Near  Frankfort,  at  the  village  of  Born- 
heim,  Baron  Charles  Rothschild  has  a  fine 
estate  called  Giinsterberg,  containing  a  large 
collection  of  art  treasures. 

Carriages. — One  or  two  persons,  70  pf. 
from  or  to  the  station ;  in  the  city,  50  pf. 

Sleeping-car  office,  14  Bethmanstrasse. 

Frankfort  to  Berlin,  via  Bebra;  time,  12 
h. ;  fare.  48  marks  90  pf.  (sleeping-car,  7.45 
P.M..  8  marks); — via  Nordhausen;  time, 
11^  h.  (sleeping-car,  11  P.M.,  8  marks)  ; — 
to  Paris;  time,  13  h.  -17  m.;  fare,  67  marks 
(sleeping-car,  5  P.M.,  1.'  marks);—  to  Mu- 
nirh ;  time,  10  h. ;  fare,  37  marks  40  pf. ; — 
to  Dresden;  time,  11  h.  25  m. ;  fare,  46 
marks  30  pf. ; — to  Cologne;  time,  5  h.  5  in. ; 
fare,  18  marks  30  pf.  (see  p.  694) ;— to  Co- 
blent-..  Muyence,  Wiesbaden,  Heidelberg,  and 
Strasburg,  see  p.  694. 


An  excursion  had  better  be  made  to  Horn- 
burg.  Time  by  rail  way,  30  and  40  minutes ; 
fare,  first  class,  1  mark  80  pf.  There  is  no 
advantage  in  buying  return  tickets.  Ho- 
tels, Btllevue  and  De  Hesse.  The  Bette- 
vue,  greatly  frequented  by  Americans,  is  a 
fine,  tirst-class  house,  opposite  the  Casino. 
The  ]><  ll<  sse  is  a  good  house,  with  moder- 
ate charges,  opposite  the  Casino.  Homburg 
was  annexed  to  the  kingdom  of  Prussia  in 
1866.  It  Mas  quite  an  insignificant  place 
formerly;  but  after  the  establishment  of 
the  baths  and  Kursanl  it  rapidly  improved, 
and  became  one  of  the  most  fashionable 
places  in  German}'.  .Since  the  suppression 
of  gambling  in  1872  it  has  increased  in  at- 
tractiven'--s. 

Separated  from  the  principal  street  by 
an  open  space  which  is  planted  with  shrubs 
and  bordered  by  orange-trees,  stands  the 
Kursaal.  which  is  decidedly  the  handsomest 
in  Germany.  A  beautiful  portico  fronts 
627 


OFFENBACH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MARBURG. 


the  street.  A  magnificent  vestibule  con- 
ducts this  visitor  to  the  beautifully  deco- 
rated ball-room,  which  occupies  the  centre 
of  the  building.  On  the  left  are  the  prin- 
cipal saloons,  elegantly  decorated,  and  fur- 
nished in  the  most  gorgeous  manner.  On 
the  right  there  is  a  splendid  saloon,  beau- 
tifully frescoed  and  furnished,  in  which 
there  is  a  table  d'hote  served  daily  at  live 
o'clock,  with  other  rooms  for  refreshments. 
There  are  also  reading-rooms,  supplied 
with  American,  English,  and  Continental 
journals,  open  freely  to  the  public,  with 
private  rooms  for  cards,  chess,  etc.  In  ad- 
dition to  the  regular  musical  band  which 
the  liberality  of  the  management  provides, 
there  are  also  gratuitous  balls  given  week- 
ly, and  concerts  three  times  a  week.  There 
is  also  a  handsome  theatre.  The  principal 
springs  are  the  Elizabethbrunnen,  the  Kai- 
serbrunnen,  the  Ludwig's  and  the  Stahl- 
brunnen,  all  of  which  are  surrounded  by 
beautiful  grounds,  with  splendid  avenues 
leading  to  them.  The  waters  are  considered 
very  efficacious  in  scrofulous  diseases,  indi- 
gestion, and  all  diseases  consequent  on  a  too 
free  use  of  wines  and  ardent  spirits. 

The  large  wine-growing  house  of  Hub. 
Hiirter  &  Son,  of  Coblentz,  has  a  branch 
establishment  here,  No.  87  Louisenstrasse. 

From  Frankfort  to  Paris,  via  Binger- 
briick,  Saarbriick,  and  Metz  (mail'),  in  13 
h.  47  m. ;  fare,  67  marks ;  second  class,  50 
marks  10  pf.  Sleeping-cars.  Ha  Cologne, 
18i  h.,  same  fare. 

'Frankfort  to  Berlin.  Time,  11J  h. ;  fare, 
first  class,  48  marks  00  pf. 

Frankfort  to  Cologne.  Time,  5  h.  5  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  18  marks  30  pf. 

From  Frankfort  to  Offenbach  in  twenty 
minutes  :  this  is  a  busy  industrial  town 
containing  22,000  inhabitant.*. 

In  leaving  Frankfort  for  Casscl  the  trav- 
eler starts  from  the  station  at  the  west  of 
the  town. 

Bockenheim,  two  miles  from  Frankfort, 
is  a  favorite  holiday  resort  for  the  citizens 
of  Frankfort.  It  contains  7000  inhabitants. 

Friedberg  (Hotel,  Trapp),  containing 
5000  inhabitants.  It  was  formerly  a  free 
city  of  the  empire.  It  has  an  old  castle 
and  two  interesting  churches. 

Naithdm. — Hotels,  Be'l'W  and  d  I  I'.n- 
t'ope.  This  is  a  watering-place  for  salt- 
baths,  and  contains  5000  inhabitants.  It 
is  finely  situated  at  the  base  of  a  wooded 
628 


hill,  the  Johannisberg.  It  contains  a  Kur- 
saal  in  a  fine  park  with  lake.  The  salt- 
springs  were  granted  by  Napoleon  to  the 
famous  cavalry  officer,  General  Kellcr- 
mann.  The  fountain  is  inclosed  in  a  brick 
shaft,  from  the  top  of  which  is  seen  the 
white  jet.  The  water  is  conveyed  through 
pipes  to  a  bath-house. 

£utzbach,  a  town  of  2500  inhabitants, 
three  miles  west  of  which  is  the  castle  of 
Miinzenberff,  destroyed  during  the  Thirty- 
years'  War. 

Giessen,  situated  on  the  River  Lahn  (Ho- 
tels Kiihne  and  Elnhoni),  contains  10,500 
inhabitants.  It  is  of  comparatively  mod- 
ern origin,  and  the  seat  of  a  University 
founded  in  1607,  frequented  by  300  stu- 
dents. There  is  a  fine  library  attached 
to  the  University. 

[A  railway  to  the  left  leads  through  Nas- 
sau and  Ems  to  Coblentz,  passing  Wetztar 
once  a  free  Imperial  city,  containing  a  line 
cathedral  of  the  eleventh  century,  and  com- 
manded by  the  ruin  of  Katsmnnt. 

Weilburg.— Hotel,  Traube.  Until  1816 
the  residence  of  the  dukes  of  Nassau. 
Weilburg.  Their  chateau  is  beautifully 
situatsd  on  a  rocky  eminence,  and  is  still 
inhabited.  Passing  Runkel,  an  old  town. 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Lahn,  and 

Liinburg  is  reached.  Tins  line  old  town 
is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Lahn.  and 
contains  4500  inhabitants.  Its  seven-tow- 
ered cathedral  rises  conspicuously  in  its 
midst.  Its  architecture  is  pointed  Gothic, 
and  is  exceedingly  interesting.  It  com 
t;iins  monuments  of  the  princes  of  Nassau.] 

Murbnrg  (Hotels,  PjMfft  >'  and  Kilter), 
finely  situated  on  the  River  Ltthn,  and 
built  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle  around 
the  hill,  which  is  surmounted  by  the  an- 
cient castle  of  the  Lnmlyrar:  .-•  <f  Hesse.  It 
became  later  a  House  of  Correction,  and 
was  well  restored  in  I860.  The  interior 
contains  the  archives  of  Hesse.  The  chapel 
and  knights'  hall  are  well  worth  a  visit. 
This  last  is  an  immense  apartment,  and 
remains  in  the  same  state  as  at  the  time 
when  Luther  and  Zwingli  discussed  the 
question  of  the  transubstantiation  in  the 
presence  of  the  Landgrave  Philip. 

The  gem  of  Marburg  is  the  church  of 
,S7.  Kliz'ibf.th,  constructed  during  the  13th 
century,  and  restored  in  1860.  It  is  built 
in  the  form  of  a  cross,  in  the  pure  Gothic 
stvle.  This  church  was  erected  soon  after 


SOKAD. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


ALTENBUBG. 


the  death  of  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  King 
Andreas  II.  of  Hungary,  and  wife  of  the 
Landgrave  Ludwig,  and  attracted  thou- 
sands of  pilgrims  from  all  parts  of  Europe, 
among  others  the  Emperor  Frederick  II., 
•who  placed  a  crown  of  gold  upon  the  head 
of  the  saint  (Elizabeth  was  canonized  in 
1235  for  the  sanctity  of  her  life).  The 
Landgrave  Philip,  who  founded  the  Uni- 
versity, to  prevent  the  pilgrimages,  caused 
her  remains  to  be  removed  to  an  unknown 
spot  in  the  church.  The  French  carried 
off  the  rich  silver-gilt  sarcophagus  in  1810, 
but  it  was  restored  in  1814.  The  mortuary 
chapel  is  adorned  -with  carved  representa- 
tions of  the  coronation  of  the  Virgin,  and 
pictures  by  Albert  Durer.  There  are 
numerous  monuments  of  landgraves  and 
knights  of  the  Teutonic  Order. 

The  University  was  founded  after  the 
Reformation,  in  1527,  by  Philip  the  Gener- 
ous, and  contains  about  'Ji.'O  students. 

At  Kirchktiyn  st.it'mn  is  seen  the  old  city 
of  .  1  tiumeburg,  with  its  ruined  castle. 

Passing  G untershausen  station,  in  three 
miles 

Catsel  is  reached.  For  description,  see 
Route  Xo.  161. 


ROUTE  No.  164. 

Berlin  to  Breslau,  via  Frankfort-on-tJie- 
Oder.  Time,  6  h.  50  m. ;  fare,  first  class, 
29  marks  70  pf. ;  second  class,  22  marks. 
(Sleeping-car,  11  P.M.,  8  marks.) 

Frankfort,  described  in  Route  Xo.  154. 
Guben  is  an  industrial  town  of  20,000 
inhabitants;  then 

•'•/,  a  town  of  no  importance.  At  Hans- 
dor/"junction  there  is  a  line  to  Gloynu.  a 
fortress  of  the  second  class,  containing 
'",000  inhabitants.  The  Cathedral,  which 
situated  on  an  island,  dates  from  the 
h  century,  and  contains  a  Madonna  by 
the  elder  Cranach.  There  are  some  cloth 
manufactories,  a  town-hall,  theatre,  etc. 

Bunzlau    (Hotel,    Kronprinz)    contains 
8700  inhabitants ;    finely  situated  on  the 
iver  Bober.    In  the  market-place  there  is 
VOL.  II.— E 


an  obel^k  by  Schinkel  and  Schadow  to  the 
memory  of  the  Russian  general  Kutusofif. 
Jfdinau  station,  noted  for  a  victory  gained 
by  the  Prussians  over  the  French  in  1813. 
The  town  was  destroyed  by  the-  Hussites 
in  1328,  and  all  the  inhabitants  murdered. 

Lieynitz  (Hotel,  Rautenkranz),  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Katzbach  and 
Schwarzwasser.  Population,  20,150.  This 
was  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Piast  family, 
which  flourished  from  the  middle  of  the 
6th  to  the  middle  of  the  17th  century,  and 
gave  123  dukes  to  Silesia  and  24  kings  to 
Poland.  The  Catholic  church  contains  the 
tombs  of  the  last  branch  of  the  Piasts,  or 
the  Polonaise  dynasty.  The  old  Palace 
near  the  station  is  now  used  by  the  govern- 
ment. 

On  the  Schulplatz  there  is  a  monument 
to  Frederick  the  Great. 

Breslau,  described  in  Route  No.  165. 


ROUTE  No.  165. 

Leipzig  to  Munich,  via  Eger  (junction  for 
Franzensbad  and  Carlsbad,  and  Marienbad 
and  Vienna)  and  Regensburg. 

Time  to  Eger,  5  h.  33  m. ;  fare,  19  marks 
50  pf. ;  —  to  Franzensbad.  via  Eger  and 
Tirschnitz,  6  h.  45  m.,  20  marks  50  pf. ; — 
to  Carlsbad,  9  h.  26  m.,  24  marks  80  pf.  ;— 
to  Marienbad,  via  Eger,  8  h.  2  m.,  22  marks 
80  pf.  ; — to  Vienna,  via  Eger,  11  h.  50  m., 
64  marks  30  pf.  ; — to  Munich,  12  h.  10  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  49  marks  30  pf. ;  second 
class,  36  marks  90  pf. 

This  is  the  most  direct  line  between  Leip- 
zig and  Munich. 

Attenburg  (Hotel,  de  Russie),  containing 
18,500  inhabitants.  This  town  is  the  cap- 
ital of  the  Duchy  of  Saxe-Altenburg.  No- 
tice the  peculiar  costume  of  the  peasantry 
of  the  town  and  surroundings. 

The  Sch'oss,  which  is  built  on  the  slope 
of  a  precipitous  rock,  was  frequently  the 
residence  of  Charlemagne  ;  one  portion  of 
it  dates  from  the  13th  century,  the  other  is 
more  modern  ;  it  contains  an  armory,  and 
is  the  residence  of  the  ducal  family.  It  waa 
from  this  castle  that  the  robber  -  knight 
Kunz  of  Kaufungen,  in  1455,  stole  the 
Princes  Ernest  and  Albert,  who  later  be- 
came the  founders  of  the  ducal  and  royal 
family  of  Saxony. 

629 


GOSSNITZ. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


RATISBON. 


Von  Lindenau's  Museum  contains  some 
good  modern  pictures. 

The  Rathhaus,  situated  in  the  market- 
place, is  a  good  specimen  of  the  Renaissance 
style  ;  it  dates  from  the  middle  of  the  16th 
century. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Altenburg  are  the 
Saxon  tin-mines. 

Gosmitz  is  a  manufacturing  town  of 
some  importance,  •whence  a  railway  to  the 
east  leads  to  Chemnitz  in  1  h.  30  m.  ;  also 
one  to  the  east  to  Gcra  in  1  h.  20  m.  This 
last  is  an  industrious  manufacturing  town, 
containing  16,700  inhabitants.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  the  River  Elster,  and  is  mostly  the 
property  of  the  Prince  of  Reuss-Ebersdorf, 
to  whom  the  picturesque  castle  belongs 
which  commands  the  town. 

This  branch  extends  to  Neustudt  and 
Sadfeld.  This  last  is  a  most  picturesque 
walled  town  in  the  centre  of  the  Thuringian 
forest,  and  contains  a  population  of  5200 
inhabitants.  Hotels,  Hirsch  and  Preussi- 
scher  H"f.  Outside  the  walls  there  is  a  fine 
chateau  belonging  to  the  family  of  Saxe- 
Saalfeld.  The  old  ducal  Schloss  is  now  a 
mint. 

The  Gothic  church  of  St.  John  has  some 
fine  stained-glass  windows. 

Notice  on  the  banks  of  the  River  Saale 
the  ruins  of  the  fine  old  castle  of  Sorben- 
burg,  which  dates  from  the  8th  century. 

Continuing  on  the  route  to  Ratisbon, 
passing  Werdau  station,  where  there  is  a 
branch  line  to  Zwick'tu, 

Reichenbach  is  reached.  Hotel,  Lamm. 
This  is  an  important  manufacturing  town, 
containing  12,000  inhabitants.  Muslin, 
cotton,  wool,  and  thread  arc  its  principal 
productions. 

The  line  now  crosses  the  deep  valley  of 
Golzfch  by  a  viaduct  700  ygrds  in  length, 
passing  in  the  depth  of  the  valley  the  final! 
town  and  castle  of  Myl'U. 

Passing  numerous  industrial  towns  of 
no  importance  to  the  traveler,  Adorf  is 
reached,  near  which  is  the  bathing-place 
of  Elstcr.  Next  come  the  stations  Bram- 
bach  and  Voitersrenth.  on  the  Austrian 
frontier,  where  baggage  is  examined. 

Eger  Junction,  whence  Franzensbad  (Rte. 
169)  is  reached  in  19  in.,  Carlsbad  (Rte.  167) 
in  1  h.  17  m.,  and  Marienbad  and  Vienna  in 
47  minutes  and  12  h.  15  m.  respectively. 

At  Weiden  station,  a  small  town  of  3000 
inhabitants,  the  line  from  Coburg  and 
630 


Baireuth  joins  the  main  line.  Passing  the 
Walhallastrasse  station,  the  line  crosses  the 
Danube  on  a  bridge  over  600  yards  long, 
and  reaches 

Ratisbon,  or  Regensburg,  the  Castra  Re- 
gina  of  the  Romans,  containing  29,250  in- 
habitants. Principal  hotel,  Goldenes  Kreuz. 
Barbara  Blomberg,  the  mother  of  Don 
John  of  Austria,  was  chambermaid  in  this 
hotel.  The  room  occupied  by  his  father, 
the  Emperor  Charles  V.,  is  still  fitted  up  in 
most  elegant  style  for  the  reception  of  im- 
perial guests,  who  always  take  up  their 
quarters  here  when  on  a  visit  to  Walhalla. 
It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Danube, 
at  the  point  where  the  Regen  empties  its 
waters  into  that  stream.  It  was  for  many 
centuries  one  of  the  most  important  of  the 
imperial  free  cities,  and  was  for  one  hundred 
and  fifty  years  the  seat  of  the  Imperial  Diets. 
It  is  surrounded  by  ramparts,  now  in  a  some- 
what dilapidated  condition.  The  river  is 
crossed  by  a  stone  bridge  1500  feet  long. 
The  city  still  retains  considerable  of  its 
ancient  commerce ;  formerly  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  traflic  of  Europe  passed  through 
it,  when  the  Holy  Crusaders  emploj'ed  its 
boatmen  to  convey  them  down  the  Danube 
on  their  way  to  the  Holy  Land.  Ratisbon 
is  said  to  have  sustained  no  less  than  sev- 
enteen sieges,  several  of  them  accompanied 
by  bombardments,  the  last  of  which  was 
when  it  surrendered  to  Napoleon  in  1809, 
who  was  here  wounded  in  the  foot. 

On  several  of  the  antique  houses  of  Rat- 
isbon one  still  can  see  the  Eagle  of  the  Em- 
pire, the  Lion  of  St.  Mark,  and  the  different 
coats  of  arms  of  the  principal  nations  of 
Europe,  whose  representatives  formerly  re- 
sided here  in  the  Street  of  the  Embassadors. 
Many  of  the  ancient  houses  are  defended 
with  battlemented  towers  and  loopholed 
walls :  the  highest  arc  the  Golden  Tower, 
and  the  Tower  of  Goliath ;  on  the  last  may 
be  seen  a  large  representation  of  the  giant. 

The  principal  building  is  the  Dome,  or 
Cathedral  of  St.  Peter,  a  chef-d'reuvre  of 
architecture  and  sculpture,  commenced  in 
1275,  and  finished  in  the  early  part  of  the 
17th  century;  it  was  restored  in  1838.  It  is 
335  feet  long,  160  wide,  and  125  high.  The 
towers  are  still  unfinished.  The  stained 
glass  windows  arc  done  in  Munich's  mod- 
ern style,  and  are  very  elegant.  The  church 
contains  numerous  monuments:  notice  es- 
pecially rh.;t  of  Bishop  Dulbcr.:,  designed 


RATISBOX. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


RATISBON. 


by  Canova  ;  and  the  statue  of  the  Virgin, 
which  stands  in  the  north  aisle  ;  also  the 
bronze  monument  of  Marguerite  Tucher, 
by  Vieher,  a  work  of  the  early  part  of  the 
Kith  century.  Make  the  ascent  of  the 
Asses'  Tower  (so  called  from  the  asses  em- 
ployed to  carry  the  material  up  the  inclined 
plane  which  was  used  for  the  construction 
of  the  building),  from  whence  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  Alps,  Danube,  and  the  Temple 
of  Walhalla  may  be  obtained. 

The  RaMaus,  or  Hotel  de  Ville.  in  which 
the  Germanic  Diet  held  their  sittings  for 
irs,  is  a  sombre  and  irregular  edifice, 
erected  during  the  14th  century.  In  addi- 
tion to  some  other  pictures,  it  contains  nu- 
merous portraits  of  the  principal  men  of 
the  imperial  city.  In  the  more  ancient 
portion  of  the  building  may  be  seen  the 
Hall  of  the  Diet,  with  its  chairs,  tables,  and 
benches  as  in  the  days  of  the  empire.  Vis- 
it by  all  means  the  dungeons  and  Chamber 
of  Torture,  which  still  remain  as  in  the 
days  when  the  refinement  of  cruelty  was 
in  its  highest  state  of  perfection  ;  fee,  18  kr. 

The  ruins  of  the  church  of  St.  Emmeran 
will  well  repay  a  visit.  The  abbey  was 
changed  in  1830  into  a  residence  for  the 
Prince  of  Thurn  and  Taxis.  Visit  the 
Scotch  ]lf-nr<Uctini>  Church  of  St.  James.  It 
was  founded  by  a  Benedictine  monk  named 
Marian,  who  was  driven  from  Scotland  dur- 
ing the  usurpation  of  Macbeth  in  the  llth 
century :  it  contains  some  pictures,  and  a 
very  good  library;  ladies  not  admitted. 
IV-hind  the  church  is  the  Prince's  Gar- 
den, always  open  to  the  public;  it  commu- 
nicates with  the  promenades,  where  there 
are  several  monuments. 

The  new  royal  villa,  built  in  the  Gothic 
style,  near  the  Ostenthor,  is  a  fine  position 
for  an  extended  view. 

An  old  stone  bridge,  which  was  con- 
structed in  the  12th  century,  uniting  Ratis- 
bon  with  its  suburb,  Stadt-am-Hof,  was 
completely  destroyed  by  the  French  in 
the  battle'of  April" 23d,  1809. 

To  visit  the  Temple  of  Walhalla  (the  prin- 
cipal object  in  coming  to  Ratisbon)  will  oc- 
cupy the  day.  One-horse  carriage,  4  florins 
24  kr..  two  horses,  5  fl.  30  kr..  for  one  hour's 
drive.  The  carriage  leaves  you  at  the  foot 
of  the  hill  and  returns  to  the  village.  The 
road  to  fame  is  rather  shabby— a  dirty  vil- 
lage to  pass  through ;  but,  once  there,  e very- 
'  ing  is  lovely.  W«lkalla,  or  Temple  of 


[  Fame,  lies  six  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Ratis- 
|  bon  ;  it  is  situated  on  a  hill  over  three  hun- 
|  dred  feet  high,  which  rises  above  the  north 
bank  of  the  Danube,  and  is  seen  at  a  great 
distance.  It  was  erected  by  the  father  of  the 
late  King  of  Bavaria,  and  was  designed  to 
contain  the  statues  and  busts  of  the  most 
distinguished  men  of  Bavaria.  The  corner- 
stone was  laid  in  1830,  and  it  was  finished 
in  twelve  years,  at  an  expense  of  eight  mill- 
ion florins.  It  is  very  similar  in  size  and 
style  to  the  Parthenon  at  Athens.  The  ex- 
terior is  in  the  Doric,  and  interior  in  the 
Ionic  style.  It  is  constructed  entirely  of 
white  marble,  surrounded  by  52  fluted  Doric 
columns,  the  roof  being  of  iron,  covered  with 
plates  of  copper.  Its  length  is  218  feet, 
breadth  102,  and  height  60.  The  interior 
forms  a  saloon  .of  160  feet  in  lergtb,  48  in 
breadth,  and  52  in  height.  The  four  walls 
are  divided  in  their  height  into  two  stories 
by  a  cornice,  on  which  fourteen  virgin  war- 
riors, in  color  and  form  of  caryatides,  exe- 
cuted by  Schwanthaler,  are  carrying  a 
superior  entablature,  richly  ornamented  in 
blue  and  gold.  At  the  northern  end,  oppo- 
site the  principal  entrance,  is  a  recess  des- 
tined to  contain  the  statue  of  the  royal 
i  founder.  Under  the  cornice  runs  a  con- 
!  tinuous  frieze,  by  Wagner,  representing  a 
history  of  the  Germanic  race  down  to  the 
introduction  ofChristianity.  The  side  walls 
are  divided  into  three  compartments  each ; 
in  these  are  placed  Rauch's  six  figures  of 
Victory,  each  worth  20,000  thalers.  Over 
the  frieze  are  sixty-four  tablets  let  into  the 
1  wall,  with  inscriptions  in  gold ;  beneath 
are  the  white  marble  brackets  on  which 
arc  placed  the  busts  of  the  great  and  good 
whom  Bavaria  delights  to  honor.  The 
pavement  is  of  different  colored  marbles. 
The  whole  is  lighted  by  ground-glass  win- 
i  dows  in  the  roof,  and  one  window  at  the 
north  end. 

Among  the  101  busts  may  be  seen  those 
of  Catherine  II.  of  Russia,  Count  Joseph 
Radetzky,  Rubens,  Van  Dyck,  Moritz  von 
Sachsen, Maria  Theresa, Rudolph  von  Haps- 
burg,  "Dr."  Martin  Luther,  Mozart.  Schil- 
ler, Goethe,  Albert  Durer,  Wallenstein,  and 
Charlemagne.  The  custodian  points  out 
the  places  No.  102. 103,  H>4.  which,  h- 
are  for  the  Emperor  William,  Bismarck, 
and  Moltke. 

At  the  village  of  Donaustauf,  through 
which  we  pass,  notice  the  castle  of  the 
631 


LANDSHUT. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


SAXONY. 


Prince  of  Thurn  and  Taxis.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  beautiful  garden,  always 
open  to  the  public.  The  hereditary  prince 
is  still  a  boy  of  14  years  (187G).  There  is 
a  small  hotel  here,  the  Walhalla. 

From  Ratisbon  to  Nuremberg.  Time,  2  h. 
13  m.  ;  fare,  first  class,  6  marks  70  pf. 

From  Ratisbon  to  Vienna.  Time,  10  h. ; 
fare,  first  class,  41  marks  20  pf. 

From  Ratisbon  to  Munich  occupies  by 
express  2  h.  55  m.  There  is  very  little  to 
interest  the  traveler  over  this  route.  Pass- 
ing Mooshain  station,  southwest  of  which 
lies  the  battle-field  of  Eckmuhl,  where,  on 
the  22d  of  April,  1809,  the  French  Marshal 
Davoust  gained  a  decided  victory  over  the 
Austrians.  He  was  rewarded  by  Napoleon 
with  the  title  of  Prince  of  Eckmuhl  for  his 
successful  generalship. 

At  Geiselhfiring  junction  a  line  branches 
ofF  to  the  east  for  Passau  and  Vienna. 

Landshut,  situated  on  the  borders  of 
the  Isar,  containing  14,250  inhabitants. 
Principal  hotel,  Kronprinz.  The  town 
has  a  very  picturesque  appearance,  with 
its  numerous  towers  and  church  spires. 
The  principal  churches  are  St.  Martin's, 
St.  Jodocus,  and  the  church  of  the  Holy 
Ghost. 

In  front  of  the  Government  Hotel  is  a 
monument  to  Lewis  the  Rich,  founder  of 
the  University  of  Ingolstadt,  which  was 
brought  here  in  1800,  but  transferred  to 
Munich  in  1826. 

The  Castle  of  Trausnilz  is  situated  on  an 
eminence  above  the  town.  It  was  former- 
ly the  residence  of  the  dukes  of  Lower 
Bavaria,  and  many  of  the  apartments  are 
in  fine  order.  Frederick  of  Austria  was 
confined  here  for  three  years  by  Lewis  the 
Bavarian. 

Passing  the  ancient  town  of  Afoosburg, 
finely  placed  on  the  banks  of  the  Isar,  the 
chain  of  Alps  now  appear,  and  Freising  is 
reached.  This  town  has  been  the  seat  of 
an  episcopal  see  since  the  8th  century. 
The  cathedral  dates  from  the  12th  century ; 
but  it  was  so  disfigured  by  the  restoration 
it  experienced  in  the  18th  century  that 
there  is  nothing  but  the  crypt  under  the 
cathedral  which  merits  notice. 

Outside  the  town  is  a  monument  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Count  Abensberg,  who 
was  killed  in  a  combat  with  a  Bavarian 
duke  in  1455. 

On  the  height  to  the  west  stands  the 
C32 


Abbey  of  Weihenstephen,  transformed  into 
an  agricultural  school. 

Munich.    For  description  see  Route  No. 
172. 


ROUTE  No.  16C. 

Berlin  to  Dresden.  For  description  of 
Berlin,  see  page  561.  Time,  3  h.  4  m. ; 
fare,  nvst  class,  17  marks  40  pf. ;  second 
class,  12  marks  20  pf. 

Take  your  ticket  to  Dresden ;  A  Itsladi  (or 
"old  tovvn")  is  the  second  station  in  Dres- 
den, where  all  the  best  hotels  and  principal 
sights  are ;  do  not  allow  porters  to  entice 
you  to  get  out  at  the  first  station. 

To  Jiiterbog  junction,  see  Route  No.  160, 
from  whence  the  train  pursues  an  easterly 
route,  joining  the  line  from  Leipzig  at  the 
station  lioderuu. 


SAXONY. 

The  Kingdom  of  Saxony  comprises  one 
of  the  finest  portions  of  Germany.  It  is 
inclosed  by  the  dominions  of  Austria,  Prus- 
sia, and  Bavaria.  It  contains  5854  square 
miles  and  2,556,224  inhabitants,  and  is  fa- 
vored alike  by  nature  in  regard  to  climate 
and  soil.  Its  mineral  resources  are  great — 
silver,  lead,  and  copper  ores  being  found  in 
abundance  ;  also  tin,  cobalt,  iron,  and  zinc. 
The  excellence  of  its  fine  breed  of  sheep 
has  made  its  wool  celebrated  in  all  coun- 
tries. The  forests  furnish  a  most  abundant 
supply  of  fuel.  Its  manufactures  of  china 
and  fine  cloth  have  always  commanded  the 
highest  admiration. 

It  is  divided  into  four  circles,  which  are 
named  after  the  principal  town  of  each, 
viz.:  Dresden,  Leipzig,  Zwickau,  and  Baut- 
zen. 

Its  monarchy  is  constitutional  and  hered- 
itary. The  receipts  and  expenses  of  the 
government  are  47,000.000  marks  each, 
and  its  public  debt  340,000,000  marks. 

Its  army  forms  the  twelfth  army  corps 
of  the  Empire  of  Germany. 

The  royal  house  of  Saxony  is  the  branch 
Albertine,  or  branch  cadet  (Catholics). 

The  reigning  sovereign  is  Albert-Fred- 
erick-Auguet-Antoine  -  Ferdinand  -  Joseph- 


ORE 


1  tCantuluJlcx  SoUt>. 

2  Frinztn.  fttlcds 
3 


16  LandJicuu 

17  ^W.fiw/ 

18  fblytedtn..  fnjttiut, 

19  Japajiifchej  Palai*r 


Denkmaler  : 
21  rwn<4uyujt  JT 
?2  , 


"^>v 

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Lvtrtauer  ,&fc$> 


Jt-M^fi, 

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DENf 


H-XJS 


I  Boolt 


SAXONY. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF   GERMANY.] 


DRESDEN. 


Charles-Marie-Baptiste-Nepomucene-Will- 
iam-Xavier-George-Fidele,  horn  April  23, 
1828,  and  married  to  the  Queen  Carol  ine- 
Frederique  -  Fran9oise  -  Stephanie  -  Amelie- 
Cecile,  daughter  of  Gustave,  prince  of 
Wasa,  born  August  5, 1838. 


Dresden.  —  On  arriving  at  tlie  station, 
metal  tickets  are  distributed  indicating  the 
number  of  carriage  to  which  the  traveler  is 
entitled.  Fares,  1  person  70  pf.,  2  persons 
80  pf.,  at  night  1  m.  30  pf.  ;  two-horse  car- 
riages the  regular  course,  1J  marks ;  if  the 
bridge  be  crossed,  10  pf.  more.  The  fares 
are  double  after  10  P.M.  The  proprietors 
of  hotels  generally  have  good  private  car- 
riages to  let,  15  to  20  marks  per  day ;  4  m. 
per  hour. 

Dresden,  the  capital  of  the  Kingdom  of 
Saxony,  is  situated  in  a  fertile  plain  upon 
both  banks  of  the  Elbe.  It  has  225,000  in- 
habitants. The  principal  hotels  are  the 
Victoria  Hotel  and  Hotel  de  Bellevue,  two  of 
the  best  in  Germany.  The  city  is  com- 
posed of  the  Altstadt  (old  town)  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Elbe,  and  the  Nevstadt  (new 
town)  on  the  right.  Three  bridges  con- 
nect the  two  banks  of  the  river.  Various 
lines  of  tramways,  built  in  the  last  few  years 
by  an  American,  connect  the  city  with  the 
different  railroad  stations,  suburbs,  and  vil- 
lages. All  that  is  known  of  the  origin  of 
Dresden  is  that  it  was  founded  by  Slavoni- 
ans and  enlarged  by  German  colonists.  At 
the  beginning  of  the  llth  century  Dresden 
was  already  a  city,  belonging  to  the  bish- 
opric of  Meissen ;  it  subsequently  became 
the  residence  of  the  margraves  of  Meissen, 
and  upon  the  partition,  in  1484,  fell  to  the 
Albertine  line  of  Saxony,  the  present  royal 
family  of  Saxony.  The  city  suffered  much 
in  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  It  attained  its 
greatest  splendor  under  the  electors  of  Sax- 
ony, who  were  kings  of  Poland,  especially 
in  the  reigns  of  Frederic  Augustus  I.  and 
II.  The  Seven  Years'  War  did  much  dam- 
age, it  having  been  several  times  occupied 
by  the  Prussians.  In  1760  it  .was  bom- 
barded by  them,  and  500  houses  destroyed. 
From  1806  to  1815  the  city  was  occupied 
several  times  by  the  French.  The  fortifi- 
633 


DRESDEN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


DRESDEN. 


cations  were  pulled  down  in  1810.  In  1812 
Napoleon  assembled  a  Congress  of  Sover- 
eigns there ;  and  in  1813  lie  obtained  a  vic- 
tory over  the  allied  arms  under  its  walls, 
Moreau  being  killed  in  the  battle.  The 
King  of  Saxony  re-entered  his  capital  in 
June,  1815,  and  the  ancient  ramparts  were 
transformed  into  promenades.  The  revo- 
lution in  1848  and  1849  did  a  great  deal  of 
damage  to  the  city.  The  kings  Antoine 
(deceased  1836)  and  Frederick  Augustus 
(deceased  1854)  did  much  for  the  embel- 
lishment of  Dresden,  which  is  now  one  of 
the  finest  cities  in  Europe. 

The  most  attractive  quarter  is  the  The- 
ater Platz,  near  which  are  the  principal  ob- 
jects of  interest  to  the  tourist.  Upon  this 
place  are  the  Zwinger,  with  its  rich  collec- 
tion?, the  Royal  Palace,  the  Catholic  Church, 
and  the  Opera-house.  Near  the  church  is 
the  old  bridge  across  the  Elbe,  a  solid  stone 
structure,  originally  built  with  the  money 
raised  by  the  sale  of  dispensations  from  the 
Pope  to  eat  butter  and  eggs  during  Lent. 
At  the  end  of  the  bridge,  and  extending 
along  the  quay  of  the  river,  is  the  Brithl 
Terrace,  a  favorite  promenade,  upon  which 
are  the  Palace  of  Rruhl  and  the  Hall  of  the 
A  cademy  of  Fine  A  r/s. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  about 
midway  between  the  old  bridge  and  the 
railway  bridge,  is  the  Japanese  Palace,  the 
gardens  of  which  extend  to  the  river. 

The  Catholic  Church  was  finished  in  1756. 
The  grand  altar -picture  represents  "The 
Ascension,"  by  Raphael  Mengs,  and  there 
are  many  other  German  and  Italian  pict- 
ures of  the  18th  century.  Under  the  sac- 
risty are  the  vaults  of  the  royal  family ;  64 
statues  of  saints  adorn  the  aisles.  The  mu- 
sic in  this  church  (on  Sundays,  from  11  to 
12,  and  at  4)  is  celebrated. 

The  Royal  Palace,  or  "Schloss,"  a  large 
square  of  three  or  four  stories,  flanked  by 
numerous  galleries  and  dependencies,  and 
inclosing  three  courts.  The  principal  body 
of  the  building  by  the  side  of  the  Catholic 
church  is  surmounted  by  a  tower  387  feet 
high,  the  highest  in  Dresden.  The  palace 
was  built  in  the  14th  century,  and  enlarged 
in  the  16th  and  17th  centuries  ;  the  interior 
is  worthy  of  inspection.  It  contains  sev- 
eral pictures  by  modern  artists ;  and  the 
royal  chapel  is  adorned  with  works  of  Ru- 
bens, Rembrandt,  Guido  Reni,  Caracci,  and 
Mengs.  The  great  audience -rooOT,  occu- 
634 


pied  by  Napoleon  during  his  stay  in  Dres- 
den, is  adorned  with  paintings  by  Sylvestre. 
The  Theatre  Royal,  built  1837-1841,  from 
the  designs  of  Semper,  was  burned  down  in 
1869,  but  is  replaced  by  the  magnificent 
Opera-house,  from  the  designs  of  the  young- 
er Semper,  since  1878.  The  front  is  deco- 
rated by  Johannes  Schilling's  bronze  group 
Dionysus  and  Ariadne  on  a  carriage  drawn 
by  four  panthers.  It  contains  a  parquet  and 
five  galleries,  giving  room  to  more  than  2000 
persons.  •  The  staircase  and  foyer  arc  built 
of  marble,  with  exquisite  taste.  The  stage 
is  of  immense  extent,  and  the  boxes  of  the 
king  and  Prince  George,  as  well  as  the 
large  Slaatsloge  in  the  centre,  are  richly 
furnished.  The  south  side  of  the  Theater 
Platz  is  closed  by  the  Zwinger,  the  construc- 
tion of  which  was  commenced  under  Au- 
gustus II.,  at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  cen- 
tury. One  side  of  the  Zwinger  is  occupied 
by  the  New  Gallery.  The  Zwinger  contains 
most  of  the  public  collections  in  Dresden. 

The  Frauenkirche,  or  Church  of  Our  Lady, 
on  the  Neumarkt,  was  built  1726-1734,  and 
is  capped  by  a  dome  which,  in  the  siege  of 
1760,  resisted  bombs  of  the  heaviest  cal- 
ibre. A  very  fine  view  may  be  enjoyed 
from  the  lantern :  it  is  384  feet  above  the 
street.  Fee  to  the  sacristan,  J  mark.  It 
has  a  famous  organ,  built  in  1736,  by  Sil- 
bermann,  with  44  registers  and  6000  pipes. 
The  Kreuzkirche,  or  Church  of  the 
Cross,  is  in  the  Kreuzstrasse.  The  first 
church  of  the  name,  dating  from  the  llth 
century,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  the  bom- 
bardment of  1760.  The  present  church  was 
built  1764-1792,  and  forms  an  oblong  square 
247  feet  long  by  174  feet  wide,  surmounted 
by  a  tower  345  feet  high,  composed  of  three 
stories  with  columns.  It  contains  some 
good  sculptures. 

The  Johanneskirche,  corner  of  Pillnitzer- 
stra?se  and  Eliasstrasse.  Built  in  Gothic 
style  by  Miickel  in  the  years  1874-1878. 
The  interior  sculptural  works  were  done 
by  Kietz  and  others. 

The  English  Church,  corner  of  Beust- 
strasse  and  Wienerstrasse,  built  in  Gothic 
style  from  the  designs  of  the  English  archi- 
tect St.  Aubyn,  is  richly  decorated  with 
painted  window?. 

The  Russian  Church,  at  the  end  of  the 
Reichsstrasse.  was  built  by  Herr  von  Bosse 
in  1874.  It  is  a  point  of  attraction  on  ac- 
count of  its  decorations  and  glass  paintings. 


DRESDEN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


Next  to  it  is  the  American  Church  of  St. 
John,  built  in  Gothic  style  by  the  architects 
Sommerschuh  and  Rumpcl  in  the  year  1884. 
The  painted  windows  and  the  altar  are  pres- 
ents of  Americans. 

The  Bruhl  J'aace  was  built  in  the  18th 
century  by  Count  Bruhl.  Prime-minister  of 
Augustus  II.  It  was  occupied  in  the  Seven 
Years'  War  by  the  King  of  Prussia ;  in  1813 
by  the  Emperor  Alexander ;  and  contains 
at  present  the  private  collection  of  prints 
of  the  late  King  Frederick  Augustus. 

The  Botanic  Garden  is  near  the  Bruhl 
Terrace.  The  former  A  rsenal,  not  far  from 
the  Botanical  Garden,  has  been  replaced  by 
a  magnificent  new  edifice  in  the  Albertstadt, 
under  the  auspices  of  the  kings  Johann  and 
Albert  of  Saxony ;  it  contains  ample  rooms 
for  arms  and  munitions. 

The  Japanese  Pahice,  in  the  Neustadt,  an 
edifice  in  Dutch  style,  was  built  in  1715  for 
Field-marshal  Count  Fleming.  King  Fred- 
erick Augustus  I.  bought  it  in  1717,  en- 
larged and  embellished  it,  and  used  it  as 
a  summer  residence.  Frederick  Augustus 
III.  presented  it  to  the  State,  and  it  now 
contains  the  Museum  <>f  Antiquities  and  the 
Roycd  I'uhlic  Library.  Attached  to  it  is  the 
magnificent  Pa'ace  Garden,  partly  laid  out 
as  a  French  garden  and  an  English  park. 
From  the  small  hill  in  it  an  admirable  pan- 
oramic view  of  Dresden  and  the  banks  of 
the  Elbe  may  be  had. 

The  principal  collections  of  pictures,  en- 
gravings, and  casts  arc  in  the  Netc  Museum, 
the  Zwinger.  The  New  Museum  was  built 
in  1854  from  the  plans  of  Semper.  The 
edifice  forms  an  oblong  square  49'2  feet  long 
by  CO  feet  wide,  and  95  feet  high.  The 
grand  entrance  is  in  the  form  of  a  trium- 
phal arch,  with  statues  of  Raphael  and  Mi- 
chael Angelo  in  th3  niches;  upon  the  cap- 
itals of  the  columns  are  statuettes  of  St. 
George,  Friedrich  Siegfried,  and  Samson ; 
on  the  attic  are  statues  of  Giotto,  Holbein, 
A.  Durer,  and  Cornelius.  Numerous  reliefs 
adorn  the  facade.  The  edifice  is  formed  of 
a  ground-floor  and  three  upper  stories.  The 
ground  -  floor  contains  the  public  collection 
of  prints  and  tngrarintjs.  The  :;r:ind  stair- 
of  imposing  proportions,  and  its  bal- 
ustrade is  richly  ornamented. 

The  Picture  Gallery,  the  finest  collection 
in  Germany,  contains  2500  pictures  and  six 
carpets  from  designs  of  Raphael.  The  gal- 
lery was  founded  by  Augustus  I.,  and  large- 


DBESDES. 


ly  increased  by  Augustus  II.  and  Augustas 
III.,  the  last  of  whom  added  to  it  the  Modena 
Gallery  at  a  cost  of  £200, 000.  It  is  classified 
in  schools  and  in  chronological  order.  For 
the  proper  study  of  this  gallery  the  cata 
logue  of  M.  Hubner,  which  may  be  purchased 
at  the  entrance,  will  be  found  very  useful. 
The  gallery  is  open  to  the  public  every 
week-day  from  9  to  3 ;  on  Sundays  and  hol- 
idays from  11  to  2.  Admission,  excepting 
Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays,  50 
pf. ;  and  on  Sundays.  25  pf. 

The  following  are  a  few  of  the  most  re- 
markable paintings:  Raphael's  "Madonna 
ili  San  Sisto,''  the  acknowledged  gem  of  the 
collection.  It  is  in  the  best  style  of  the  great 
master,  and  was  painted  only  a  few  year-; 
before  his  death.  A  room  is  set  apart  for 
this  picture,  and  at  the  farther  extremity 
another  room  is  set  apart  foi  the  mas- 
terpiece of  the  younger  Holbein,  "Jacob 
Meyer,  Burgomaster  of  Basle,  with  his 
family,  kneeling  before  the  Virgin."  This 
is  considered  the  greatest  treasure  of  the 
gallery,  next  to  the  great  work  of  Ra- 
phael. Correggio:  "The  Virgin  and  the 
Infant  Jesus  in  the  Manger,"  consid- 
ered the  best  work  of  the  painter.  Ti- 
tian :  " Tribute  Money,"  "The  Virgin  and 
Child  and  Saints,"  "Reclining  Venus." 
Albrecht  Durer :  "Crucifixion,"  portrait  of 
a  man  in  black.  Rembrandt :  Portrait 
of  his  mother;  his  own  portrait,  with  his 
wife  sitting  on  his  knee.  Rubens:  "The 
Judgment,"  ''The  Boar  Hunt."  Ruysdael: 
';The  Hunt."  Vandyke:  "Charles,  his 
Queen,  and  their  Children."  Portrait  of 
Rykatrt  the  painter.  The  portrait  in 
crayon  of  "La  Belle  Chocolatiere,"  once  a 
waitress  in  a  cafe  in  Vienna,  and  a  cele- 
brated beauty,  afterwards  married  to  an 
Austrian  of  rank,  is  much  admired. 

The  gallery  has  been  considerably  in- 
creased by  purchases  in  the  last  years  of 
modern  masters  :  Kaulbach,  Achenbaeh, 
Defregger,  Pohle,  Preller,  Hubner,  Wisli- 
cenus,  and  others. 

The  Historical  Museum,  or  Rast-Kammer, 
formerly  in  the  Ziciiiger.AnA  combined  with 
the  Gewehr-Gallerie,  is  contained  now  in 
the  old  Picture-Gallery  on  the  Neumarkt, 
ciTiier  of  Augustus  Strasse.  This  building 
is  very  remarkable  on  account  of  its  wall 
pictures  along  the  Augustus  Strasse,  repre- 
senting all  the  ancestors  of  the  House  of 
Wettin,  and  especially  the  Albertine  line, 
G35 


DRESDEN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


DRESDEN. 


in  chronological  succession.  This  collec- 
tion, the  richest  of  its  kind  in  Germany, 
contains  arms  and  armor  of  ancient  Ger- 
man}', costumes,  and  other  objects  of  his- 
torical interest.  In  the  entrance-hall  is  a 
cupboard  once  used  by  Luther,  his  drink- 
ing-cup  and  sword;  in  the  hunting-room, 
No.  2,  the  hunting-horn  of  Henry  IV.  of 
France;  in  the  battle-room,  No.  4.  the  ar- 
mor of  Gustavus  Adolphus,  which  he  left 
at  Weissenfels  before  the  battle  of  Lutzen. 
with  his  baton  of  command  and  sword,  and 
the  armor  of  John  Sobiesky ;  in  the  pistol- 
room,  the  pistol  of  Charles  XII.  of  Sweden, 
and  of  Louis  XIV. ;  in  the  parade-room,  the 
hat  and  sword  of  Peter  the  Great,  a  saddle 
used  by  Napoleon,  and  the  boots  which  he 
•wore  at  the  battle  of  Dresden. 

Open  on  even'  week-day  from  10  to  2 ; 
Sundays  and  holidays  from  11  to  2.  Ad- 
mission, week-days,  50  pf. ;  Sundays  and 
holidays,  25  pf. 

The  collections,  formerly  in  the  Japanese 
Palace,  have  been  exhibited  in  the  old 
Picture-Gallery .  called  Johanneum,  in  the 
Royal  Castle,  with  the  exception  of  the 
collection  of  antiquities  or  Augusteum.. 
It  occupies  twelve  apartments  of  the 
ground -floor.  It  was  founded  in  1725 
by  Augustus  I.,  who  bought  it  of  Prince 
Chigi,  and  has  been  augmented  by  the  col- 
lection of  Count  Briihl. 

It  is  open  week-days  from  10  to  2  ;  Sun- 
days and  holidays  from  11  to  2.  Admis- 
sion, 50  pf.  on  week-days;  Sundays  and 
holidays  free. 

This  museum  contains  busts  of  sover- 
eigns of  Saxony,  the  Borghese  Gladiator, 
the  Amazon,  repaired  by  Thorwaldsen, 
Adrian  as  a  Gladiator,  and  busts  of  many 
Roman  emperors,  and  of  mythological  per- 
sonages. 

The  tenth  saloon  contains  bronze  figures 
and  Egyptian  antiquities ;  the  eleventh, 
vases  and  other  objects  of  antiquity  in  terra 
cotta ;  the  twelfth,  Saxon  antiquities. 

The  Keramic  collection,  in  the  second  floor 
of  the  Johanneum,  contains  over  600.000  ob- 
jects, classified  in  chronological  order,  from 
the  earliest  productions  of  Boettger  to  the 
modern  products  of  the  royal  manufactory 
at  Meissen.  There  is  a  rich  collection  of 
porcelains  of  Sevres,  China,  and  Japan. 

The  Royal  Library,  still  in  the  Japanese 
Palace,  occupies  three  galleries  and  twenty- 
four  paloons,  and  contains  nearly  250,000 
G36 


volumes,  2000  early  editions  of  early  works, 
3000  and  more  manuscripts,  and  a  rich  col- 
lection of  geographical  charts. 

The  Grune  Gervolbe,  or fi  Green  Vaults,"  in 
the  Eoyal  Palace,  is  a  collection  of  artistic 

'  objects  which  is  considered  the  richest  of 
its  kind  in  Europe.  They  amount  in  num- 
ber to  3000,  and  occupy  eight  saloons.  In 
the  first  saloon  are  bronzes ;  in  the  second 

I  ivory  carvings ;  in  the  third  mosaics,  shells, 
corals,  etc. ;  in  the  fourth  objects  of  gold 
and  silver ;  in  the  fifth  engraved  stones  and 
precious  objects  of  crystal;  in  the  sixth 
wood  carvings  and  the  insigniasof  the  Polish 
coronation ;  and  in  the  seventh  objects  of 
alabaster,  jewels,  pearls,  and  sculptures, 
comprising  more  than  250  objects  of  great- 
est value  contained  in  the  so-called  Kleines 
Cabinet,  in  the  corner.  Of  this  number 

I  there  are  more  than  100  carved  in  ebony 
and  ivory ;  a  pearl  of  the  size  of  a  hen's 
egg,  representing  the  dwarf  of  Charles  If. 
of  Spain;  pearls  transformed  into  gr<>' 
personages;  a  golden  egg  inclosing  a  uoM 
en  fowl ;  a  crown,  a  signet-ring,  and  a  dia- 
mond ring ;  a  basket  of  flowers  in  enamel ; 
an  automaton  spider ;  some  vases  of  onyx ; 
two  bracelets  ornamented  with  shell  cam- 
eos, and  some  pictures  in  enamel.  In  the 
eighth  (the  most  interesting  of  all),  arms, 
jewels,  and  other  articles  of  value,  especial- 
ly the  works  of  Dinglinger,  a  celebrated 
goldsmith  of  the  18th  century.  His  most 
celebrated  work  is  "  The  Court  of  the  Great 
Mogul,"  a  group  in  gold  and  enamel,  upon 
a  plate  of  silver  four  feet  four  inches  square, 
of  132  persons.  The  artist,  with  his  fam- 
ily and  fourteen  workmen,  were  occupied 
upon  this  work  for  eight  years,  and  re- 
ceived for  their  labor  58,400  thalers.  Here 
is  also  the  largest  piece  of  onyx  known, 
six  and  two  thirds  by  two  and  one  quar- 
ter inches.  In  this  room  is  the  Saxon  re- 
galia, including  the  electoral  sword  borne 
by  the  Saxon  princes  at  the  coronations, 
and  a  large  and  costly  collection  of  chains, 
collars,  and  orders  formerly  worn  by  the 
Saxon  princes,  including  the  Garter,  the 
Golden  Fleece.  Polish  Eagle,  etc.  One  case 
is  filled  with  sapphires,  emeralds,  rubies,  and 
pearls ;  another  with  diamonds,  among  which 
is  the  famous  green  brilliant,  weighing  forty 
carats. 

We  have  already  mentioned  the  Briihl 
Terrace,  the  alleys  which  separate  the  town 
from  the  suburbs,  the  Botanical  Garden, 


DRESDEN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


DRESDEN. 


and  the  Japanese  Palace  gardens ;  besides 
which  is  the  Grosser  Garten,  laid  out  in  the 
17th  century,  and  embellished  by  Augustus 
II.,  being  the  most  extensive  public  park 
in  Saxony.  It  lost  a  great  part  of  its  stat- 
ues in  the  wars  of  the  present  and  last  cen- 
tury. It  is  the  principal  pleasure-ground 
of  the  people  of  Dresden,  containing  a  num- 
ber of  cafes  and  restaurants.  The  basin  of 
the  swans,  and  some  groups  and  vases  in 
marble  are  noticeable. 

Combined  with  the  Grosser  Garten  is  the 
Zoological  Garden,  containing  a  number  of 
rare  aninuils. 

We  further  mention  as  a  public  prome- 
nade the  Anlagen  of  the  Burgtrweise,  which 
is  a  splendid  specimen  of  horticultural 
art. 

Beside  the  Picture-Gallery  is  the  statue 
of  Carl  Maria  von  Weber,  and  before  the 
Hotel  de  Saxc  the  monument  of  King  Fred- 
crick  Augustus  II. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Altmarkt  is  the  stat- 
ue of  Germania,  and  in  front  of  the  Kreuz- 
schule  the  statue  of  Theodor  Korner.  Near 
the  end  of  the  Augustusbriicke,  Neustadt, 
is  the  equestrian  statue  of  Augustus  the 
Strong  (II.). 

Worth  seeing  are  the  two  bronze  lions  in 
front  of  the  two  infantry  barracks  in  the 
Albertstadt. 

A  wonderful  view  all  over  Dresden  may 
be  enjoyed  from  the  Carolabriicke,  connect- 
ing the  barracks  in  the  Albertstadt,  and 
separated  by  the  small  river  1'riessnitz. 

Very  noticeable  is  the  monument  of  Mo- 
reau,  in  Rackintz,  from  which  the  tourist 
has  an  admirable  panoramic  view  of  Dres- 
den and  the  Saxon  Switzerland. 

Connected  with  the  consulate  is  the 
American  banking-house  of  Robert  Thode 
&  Co.,  a  firm  well  known  to  all  American 
travelers,  and  deserving  to  be  recommend- 
ed in  every  respect ;  they  keep  registers  of 
Americans,  and  have  fine  reading-rooms. 
All  banking  and  exchange  business  is  trans- 
acted there,  as  well  ns  letters  of  credit 
cashed  and  issued.  Tickets  for  all  great 
steamer  lines  are  to  be  had  there. 

Messrs.  Schloessmann  &  Schcffler,  No.  26 
Rosenstrasse,  commission  agents,  highly 
recommended  by  the  American  bankers, 
Messrs.  Thode  &  Co.,  attend  to  the  forward- 
ing of  all  kinds  of  goods  to  America. 

The  principal  manufacturers  of  damask, 
table-linen,  and  linen  sheeting  in  Dresden 


are  Messrs.  Proelss'  Sons,  corner  of  See  and 
Waiscnhaus  Strasse,  No.  8,  opposite  the  Vic- 
toria Hotel ;  they  also  keep  a  large  stock 
of  ready-made  linen,  embroideries,  shirt- 
ings, huckabacks,  and  diaper  towelings. 

For  paintings,  Buckner  &  Ernst ;  and  for 
photographs,  Arnold  can  be  recommended. 


637 


DRESDEN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


DRESDEN. 


Dresden  to  Paris.  Time,  28  h.  20  m. ; 
fare,  iirst  class,  107  m.  30  pf. 

Dresden  to  Vienna,via  Lissa,  by  the  North- 
ern of  Austria  Railway  (sleeping-car  route~), 
in  11  h.  44  m. ;  54  m.  70  pf.  (See  Route  186.) 

Dresden  to  Berlin.  Time,  3  h.  4  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  17  m.  40  pf. 

When  second  class  is  not  given,  the  dif- 
ference is  about  38  per  cent,  less  than  the 
first  class. 

A  short  distance  from  Dresden,  and  near 
the  village  of  Racknitz,  is  the  monument 
erected  to  Jean  Victor  Moreau,  who  was 
shot  in  the  legs  by  a  cannon-ball  at  the 
battle  of  Dresden.  His  legs  were  ampu- 
tated by  Sir  James  Wylie.  He  was  in  the 
service  of  Alexander,  emperor  of  Russia, 
and  was  at  the  moment  he  was  shot  recon- 
noitring the  movements  of  the  French 
army.  The  monument  consists  of  a  gran- 
ite block  surmounted  by  a  helmet;  under 
this  his  legs  are  buried;  his  body  was 
conveyed  to  St.  Petersburg,  where  in  the 
Catholic  church  of  that  city  you  may  see 
a  marble  slab  which  recounts  the  brilliant 
deeds  and  unfortunate  end  of  the  hero  of 
Hohenlinden. 

The  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  Dresden 
are  numerous,  conspicuous  among  which 
is  that  to  the  Saxon  Switzerland — why 
called  Switzerland  we  hardly  know,  as  the 
scenery  of  the  two  countries  is  entirely 
different.  The  River  Elbe  flows  through 
the  centre  of  this  beautiful  country ;  and 
we  advise  all  persons  visiting  Dresden 
during  the  summer  months  to  make  excur- 
sions to  Pillnilz,  Bastei,  Ottowalder  Grund, 
Konigstein,  Kuhstall,  and  Winterberg. 

Good  walkers  can  "  do"  most  of  these 
delightful  places  in  two  days,  and  much 
may  be  seen  in  one,  with  very  little  walk- 
ing. If  the  traveler  has  no  courier,  a  valet 
de  place  had  better  be  taken  from  Dresden. 
638 


The  railroad  and  carriages  had  better  be 
taken  as  far  as  Schandau,  and  return  by 
boat  to  Dresden. 

Or  make  the  different  excursions  on  dif- 
ferent days.  For  instance,  by  rail  to  Pot- 
scha,  which  is  the  station  for  the  Bastei; 
by  rail  to  Konigstein,  which  is  the  station 
for  that  fortress ;  and  to  Krippen,  which  is 
the  station  for  Schandau  and  Kuhstall. 

Guides  may  be  found  at  the  different 
stations.  The  usual  fare  is  one  thaler  per 
day.  Horses,  ponies,  and  donkeys  may  be 
hired  at  the  different  stations ;  also  chaise  a 
porteurs  for  ladies  who  can  not  ride.  Boats 
may  also  be  hired  along  the  banks  of  the 
Elbe. 

The  cars  start  from  the  old  town  (Alt- 
stadt),  and,  after  passing  the  Great  Garden, 
the  town  of  Pirna,  above  which  stands  the 
castle  of  Sonnenstein,  we  arrive  at  Pilnitz, 
the  summer  residence  of  the  king.  The 
palace,  which  is  modern,  having  been  erect- 
ed in  1818,  contains  some  very  fine  frescoes 
by  Vogel.  The  conservatories,  gardens, 
and  pleasure-grounds  are  very  fine. 

At  Potscha  we  cross  the  Elbe  by  ferry 
to  visit  the  Bastei,  the  name  given  to  one 
of  the  most  singular  rocks  in  Europe,  from 
the  top  of  which  (COO  feet  above  the  river 
"which  sweeps  round  its  base)  one  of  the 
most  lovely  views  may  be  had.  Along  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  over  the  plain,  huge 
columnar  masses  start  up,  even  to  a  height 
of  1200  feet;  conspicuous  among  these  are 
the  hills  of  Kunigstein  and  Lilienstdn.  The 
first  is  a  virgin  xortress,  never  yet  having 
been  captured.  Here,  for  ages,  in  time 
of  war,  the  treasures  of  the  Green  Vaults 
in  Dresden  are  stored  by  their  Saxon 
monarch?,  and  cases  are  always  ready  at 
hand  to  store  them  in.  Napoleon  tried 
to  batter  this  fort  from  its  neighbor  Lilien- 
stein,  but  without  effect.  Two  years'  pro- 
visions for  one  thousand  men  can  be  stored 
here,  and  water  is  drawn  from  a  well  cut 
in  the  rock  over  GOO  feet  deep.  Make  the 
ascent  by  all  means ;  the  view  from  the 
top  is  nowhere  surpassed. 

The  natural  obelisk  of  Lilienstein  sur- 
passes its  opposite  neighbor  in  height  by 
160  feet,  and  is  the  highest  of  these  isolated 
mountains.  It  is  accessible  by  means  of 
ladders  and  paths  cut  in  the  rock. 

From  the  Bastei  to  Schandau  there  is  a 
carriage-road,  from  whence  an  excursion 
should  be  made  to  Kuhstall  (Cow-stable), 


TEPUI-Z. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


CARLSBAD 


•whicn  is  six  miles  distant.  This  is  a  most 
singular  cave  or  arch  cut  in  the  solid  rock, 
800  feet  above  the  sea,  wh'Tc  many  persons 
have  taken  refuge  in  stormy  times. 


even,1  season.  It  is  considered  the  cheap- 
est and  most  fashionable  watering-place  in 
Europe.  Dinners  at  the  table  d'hote  about 
33  cents,  and  a  parlor  and  bedroom  for  five 
dollars  per  week.  There  were  diplomatic 
Congresses  held  here  in  1813  and  in  1835. 
The  village  of  Schotiau  is  at  the  present 
time  a  portion  of  Teplitz,  being  united  to 
it  by  a  range  of  houses,  among  which  are 
the  Xeubad,  Sfrin'jtt  I.  and  Schlangenbad ; 
also  the  Public  Baths,  the  Military  Austrian 
Bath,  the  Jews'  Bath,  and  Prussian  and 
Saxon  Military  Baths. 

A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  Schloss- 
iberg,  about  two  miles  from  the  town  ;  it  is 
surmounted  by  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  from 
whence  there  is  a  delightful  view. 

To  the  Millfsch'Mter,  a  mountain  about 
2500  feet  high,  is  a  fine  excursion.  Time, 
3  hours. 

Teplitz  is  connected  with  the  line  from 

Time,  7  h.  34  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  19  m.  40  j  Vienna  to  Dresden  by  a  branch  line  to 
pf. ;  second  class,  15  m.  70  pf.  Aussig,  where  travellers  coming  from  Vicn- 

Bodenbach,  described  in  Route  Xo.  185.     na  should  change  cars.     The  time  is  40 
Teplitz  is  celebrated  for  its  warm  springs,   minutes  from  that  station  to  Teplitz. 
the  medical  properties  of  wlii.-h  attract  vis-        Teplitz  to  Carlsbad,  via  Kommotau  Junc- 
itors  from  every  part  of  the  Continent.    Pop-   tion,  in  3  h.  47  m. ;  fare,  3  gl.  90  kr. 
ulation,  8500  ;  Hotels:  Kiinig  ron  Prevssen, 
Post,   Xtitdt    London,   etc.      The    baths   of 
Teplitz,  alkaline-saline  (26-39  R.)  are  most 

efficacious  in  cases  of  gout,  rheumatism,  Carlsbad  (Hotel  National,  in  a  fine 
neuralgia,  and  other  nervous  diseases,  scrof-  position  on  the  hill,  close  to  the  baths 
ulous  growths  and  swellings,  shot  and  sabre  and  park)  contains  a  permanent  popula- 
wounds,  broken  bones,  stiffness  of  joints ;  tion  of  3000  inhabitants,  and  is  very 
the  mud-baths  are  also  in  high  repute.;  romantically  situated  in  a  narrow  valley, 
The  bath  establishments  are  numerous  and  i  surrounded  by  hills  covered  with  every 
very  comfortable:  the  Strt'ltba-1,  Kaiser-  j  variety  of  foliage,  and  affording  the  most 
bad,  Steinbad,  SMtngenbud  (belonging  to  extensive  and  varied  prospect.  It  is 


ROUTE  No.  1C7. 
Dresden    to    Carlsbad,    via    Bohnbach. 


(belonging 
Schonau)are  open,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Schlangenbad,  summer  and  winter.  There 
is  a  fine  theater,  kursanl,  with  orchestra, 
military  music,  a  reading-room  in  Teplitz 
and  in  Schonau,  balls,  etc..  etc.  A  bath 
costs  about  40  kr. ;  one  hour  allowed.  In 


considered  one  of  the  most  aristocratic 
and  fashionable  watering-places  in  Eu- 
rope, although  the  hotels  are  not  by  any 
means  the  best,  and  as  many  as  17,000 
visitors  arrive  here  yearly.  The  springs 
were  first  discovered  by  the  Emperor 


1883  visitors  numbered  over  30, 000.    There!  Charles  IX.  while  hunting  in  the  neigh- 


are  many  good  physicians.  The  principal 
place  of  resort  is  the  palace  and  the  gar- 
dens of  the  Prince  of  Clary.  Behind 
the  Schloss  rises  an  imitation  castle,  and 
from  the  Schlackenburg  there  is  a  beauti- 
ful prospect.  On  another  prominent  posi- 
tion stands  a  monument  of  Frederick  Will- 
iam III.,  king  of  Prussia.  The  prome- 
nades are  very  delightful.  Teplitz  owes  its 
celebrity  to  the  number  of  crowned  heads 
and  nobility  of  Europe  who  resort  here 


borhood.  One  of  his  dogs  fell  into  the 
Sprudel,  which  is  the  principal  spring, 
and  the  hottest  in  Europe  (165°  Fahr.). 
The  cries  of  the  poor  animal  soon 
brought  the  hunters  to  the  spot.  The 
emperor  was  suffering  at  the  time  from 
wounds  received  in  battle.  His  phy- 
sician recommended  these  waters,  and  his 
wounds  were  cured  in  a  miraculously  short 
time.  He  gave  his  name  to  the  spring, 
and  endowed  it  with  his  patronage. 
639 


CARLSBAD. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF   GERMANY.] 


CELLE. 


The  principal  baths,  which  are  effica- 
cious in  diseases  of  the  liver,  kidneys,  and 
in  cases  of  the  gout,  are  the  Muhlbiider 
and  Sprudelbader ;  the  principal  springs 
are  the  Sprudel  and  Hygeia.  The  princi- 
pal ingredients  of  all  the  springs  are  near- 
ly the  same,  viz.,  sulphate  of  soda,  car- 
bonate of  soda,  and  common  salt.  The 
Sprudel  is  covered  with  a  colonnade,  under 
which  the  patients  promenade  in  bad 
weather. 

The  Hygeia  is  the  other  principal 
spring ;  but  the  Muhlbrunnen,  whose 
temperature  is  only  126°  Fahr.,  is  the 
one  which  is  principally  drunk.  The 
Xeubi-unnen  is  also  much  used.  The  wa- 
ter of  the  Sprudelbader  and  Muhlbader  is 
that  used  for  baths  in  the  two  principal  es- 
tablishments. There  are  also  vapor  baths, 
mud  baths,  and  gas  batlis. 

The  patient  generally  drinks  the  waters 
from  5  to  8  A.M.,  some  of  them  imbibing 
as  many  as  ten  glasses;  and  while  the  wa- 
ter is  cooling  they  promenade,  enjoying 
the  music  of  a  band  which  is  stationed  in 
the  vicinity,  open-air  exercise  being  one 
of  the  principal  cures  of  the  place,  and 
a  most  essential  portion  of  the  regimen 
laid  down  by  the  physicians.  The  season 
is  at  its  height  from  the  1st  of  July  to 
the  loth  of  August.  Visitors  partak- 
ing of  the  waters  of  the  baths  are  obliged 
to  follow  certain  rules  in  regard  to  diet, 
which  are  laid  down  by  the  faculty  of  Carls- 
bad,  the  neglect  of  which  would  be  danger- 
ous to  the  patient.  The  daily  routine  here 
is  the  same  as  at  Toplitz.  The  walks  are 
shady  and  delightful,  and  donkeys  for  rid- 
ing and  mounting  the  heights  in  plenty. 
There  is  a  reading-room  and  billiard-tables, 
but  gambling  is  strictly  prohibited.  It  is 
customary,  in  leaving  the  town,  to  give 
one  or  two  francs  to  the  girls  at  the  springs 
who  have  waited  upon  you. 

The  tariffs  may  be  seen  at  the  hotels. 

A  few  miles  from  Carlsbad,  situated 
in  a  highly  picturesque  valley,  is  the 
bathing  establishment  Giesshubl-Puckstein, 
source  of  the  Giesshubler,  the  waters  of 
which  are  forwarded  in  more  than  2,500,000 
bottles  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  Giess- 
hubler  forms,  on  account  of  its  agreeable 
taste,  an  exquisite  beverage  at  any  time, 
and  is  acknowledged  and  recommended  by 
the  medical  faculty  as  the  purest  acidulous 
spring  water.  It  is  extremely  efficacious 
640 


in  cases  of  indigestion,  of  catarrh  in  the 
stomach  or  bronchial  tubes,  liver  com- 
plaint, gout,  chronic  rheumatism,  gravel, 
hypochondria,  and  hysteria,  and  well  suit- 
ed, by  its  delicate  action  on  the  system,  to 
children,  or  to  women  in  a  weak  state  of 
health.  Its  efficiency  is  recognized  by  the 
Carlsbad  phj'sicians,  who  nearly  always 
prescribe  them  before  or  after  the  Carlsbad 
cure.  The  waters  are  taken  either  pure  or 
with  goat's  or  ass's  milk.  An  establish- 
ment for  those  desiring  benefit  by  these 
waters  was  opened  in  the  year  1844,  where 
lodgings  may  be  obtained,  either  by  single 
persons  or  for  entire  families. 

The  Giesshiibler  preserves  its  qualities 
for  many  years  after  bottling  if  kept  in 
a  cool  place.  The  sole  importers  for  the 
United  States  are  Scherer  &  Co.,  Park 
Place,  New  York ;  for  England,  2C7  Ox- 
ford Street,  London. 

Any  details  desired  given  by  the  pro. 
prietor,  Heinrich  Mattoni,  Carlsbad. 

Visitors  are  taxed  for  the  cure  six  flor- 
ins, and  for  the  band  two  florins. 

The  theatre  commences  its  performance 
at  six,  and  is  usually  over  by  nine  o'clock. 

There  is  a  reading-room,  well  supplied 
with  foreign  journals,  situated  in  the  New 
Kurhuus,  as  well  as  a  very  good  restaurant, 
much  frequented.  Another  excellent  res- 
taurant is  that  of  the  Stadtpark;  they  are 
both  under  the  same  management. 

There  are  numerous  cafes  and  gardens 
situated  in  the  handsome  valley  of  the 
Tepel,  such  as  the  Cafe  Salon,  Sans  Souci, 
Sch&nbrunn,  etc. 

An  excursion  a  little  farther,  which  will 
well  repay  the  walk  or  ride,  is  to  the  Pan- 
orama to  the  north  of  Carlsbad;  also  to 
the  Kimiff  Otto's  Ilohe,  from  whence  there 
is  an  extensive  and  beautiful  view. 

Carlsbad  to  Paris.  Time,  37  h.  40  m. ; 
fare,  62  gl.  75  kr.  (2  gl.  =  SI). 

Carlsbad  to  Vienna.  Time,  14  h.  28  m. ; 
fare,  26  gl.  69  kr.  =  $13.35. 


ROUTE  No.  168. 

Hanover  to  Hamburg,  via  Celle,  Uelzen, 
and  Luneburg.  Time,  5  h.  30  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  17  m.  50  pf. ;  second  class,  13  m. 
10  pf. 

Celle  (Hotel,  Adler)  is  a  beautiful  town, 
noted  for  its  inhabitants  speaking  the  Ian- 


LCNEBURG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


KlSSINGEH. 


puage  in  its  greatest  purity.  The  Ilandels- 
is  highly  spoken  of,  as  is  its  prin- 
cipal, Dr.  Fiedler.  The  town  contains 
li;,:;i>0  inhabitants.  The  old  Schloss  has 
lately  been  restored,  and  contains  an  in- 
teresting chapel.  The  Pfarrkirche,  an 
old  parish  church,  contains  the  tomb  of 
the  house  of  Brunswick-Luneburg. 

In  the  French  Garden  there  is  a  monu- 
ment to  Queen  Caroline  of  Denmark,  sis- 
ter to  George  III.  of  England. 

Uelzen,  described  in  Route  No.  150. 

Luneburg,  an  interesting  old  town  of 
14,000  inhabitants.  Principal  hotel,  Wel- 
lenkamp.  It  is  situated  on  the  River  II- 
men'iu,  which  is  navigable  to  this  point. 
It  was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  duchy, 
and  retains  its  primitive  appearance. 

The  Rathhuuf.  situated  on  the  market- 
place, is  rich  in  painted  glass,  frescoes,  and 
embroidery.  Notice  the  new  Council 
Chamber,  and  its  curious  paintings.  There 
are  numerous  relics  also  shown  to  the  vis- 
itor ;  the  Biirgereid  crystal  -  box,  upon 
which  the  burghers  of  Luneburg  placed 
their  thumbs  when  the}-  took  an  oath,  Her- 
mann Billing's  drinking-horn  in  carved 
ivory,  etc. 

The  Johmne-'kirche  is  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury. It  has  double  aisles,  a  carved  altar- 
piece,  also  the  pillar  on  which  Luna  stood, 
hence  the  name  of  Lunaburg. 

There  are  some  extensive  salt-tcorks  in 
the  vicinity.  There  is  a  branch  line  to 
Biichen  and  Lubeck.  The  line  from  Ber- 
lin also  crosses  the  track. 

A  short  distance  beyond  Luneburg  are 
situated  some  of  the  remains  of  the  former 
town  of  Bardou-ieck ;  previous  to  the  exist- 
ence of  Hamburg  it  was  the  most  impor- 
tant town  in  Northern  Germany.  It  was 
destroyed  by  Henry  the  Lion  in  11S9,  and 
only  a  portion  of  its  cathedral  remains. 

J/nrburg  is  an  industrious  town  contain- 
ing 16,500  inhabitants.  Hotel,  Konig  von 
Schiceden. 

A  new  line,  recently  opened,  crosses  the 
north  arm  of  the  Elbe,  and  the  traveler  ar- 
rives at  the  new  station  in  Hamburg.  For 
description,  see  Route  No.  147. 


ROUTE  No.  169. 
Frankfort  to  Berlin  (or  Carlsbad),  via 


Witrzburg  (the  Baths  of  Kissingen),  Bam- 
bery,  Xeuenmttrkt,  Hof,  and  Leipzig. 

Time  to  Berlin,  17  h.  13  m. ;  fare,  first 
class,  46  marks ;  second  class,  32  marks  5 
g.  This  is  the  most  direct  route  to  Carls- 
bad. At  Hof  one  changes  cars  for  Eger, 
thence  to  Carlsbad. 

The  direct  line  to  Berlin  is  via  Bebra  or 
Nordhausen,  the  latter  only  11  hours;  see 
Frankfort,  p.  627. 

For  Aschaffenburg  and  Witrzburg,  see 
Route  No.  174. 

In  one  hour  from  Wurzburg  the  Schioe in- 
furt  station  is  reached,  where  travelers 
change  cars  for  the  Baths  of  Kissingen, 
which  are  reached  by  a  branch  line  in  one 
hour  ;  fare  from  Schweinfurt,  2  marks. 

Schweinfurt  (Hotel,  Rabi-)  contains 
10,400  inhabitants.  The  old  Rathhaus, 
constructed  in  1570,  is  of  a  most  singular 
architecture.  Its  fortifications  are  due  to 
Gustavus  Adolphus  of  Sweden,  also  its 
Gymnasium,  which  still  exists.  The  man- 
ufacture of  paper  is  extensively  carried  on 
here,  and  there  are  numerous  sugar  re- 
fineries. 

[Kisringen  is  situated  in  the  Franco- 
nian  Saale,  at  the  bottom  of  a  valley. 
Population,  3300.  Principal  hotels :  San- 
ner  and  Kaiserhof,  both  first  class.  This 
was  formerly  a  poor,  miserable  village, 
but  since  the  discovery  of  its  celebrated 
mineral  waters  it  has  rapidly  increased 
in  importance,  and  during  the  season  its 
visitors  often  number  10.000.  Half  a 
million  bottles  of  its  waters  are  annu- 
ally exported.  There  are  three  differ- 
ent springs :  the  Rakoczy,  which  is  the 
kind  exported,  and  is  used  for  drinking ; 
the  Pandnr,  for  bathing,  excellent  in  cases 
of  gout  and  chronic  diseases ;  and  the 
Maxbrunnen,  which  is  similar  to  Seltzer 
water,  and  is  usually  prescribed  for  chil- 
dren. 

The  principal  rendezvous  of  the  visitors 
is  to  the  Kurgarten,  a  large  space  in  front 
of  the  Kurhaus,  and  the  Arcades,  where 
the  Conversation-Room*  are  situated.  The 
garden  is  ornamented  with  two  marble 
groups,  one  a  statue  of  Maximilian  II.  of 
Bavaria ;  the  other  of  Hygeia,  with  sym- 
bolical figures  of  the  different  sources. 

Life  here   is  rather  monotonous  when 

compared   with    Baden-Baden    and   other 

German  watering  -  places.     A  theatre   is 

open  during  the  season.     The  morning*, 

641 


HAMBURG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


HOF  JUNCTION. 


from  6  to  8,  are  devoted  to  drinking  the 
Rakoczy,  and  promenading,  while  the 
band  performs  up  to  1  o'clock,  at  which 
time  all  Kissingen  dines,  the  fashionable 
and  invalid  world  retiring  from  sight. 
After  dinner,  coft'ee  and  more  promenad- 
ing, supper,  and  to  bed.  A  large  quan- 
tity of  salt  is  obtained  from  the  saline 
springs  a  short  distance  up  the  valley. 
The  walks  and  drives  in  the  vicinity  are 
very  delightful. 

Visitors  have  the  usa  of  the  journals 
gratis  in  the  Kurhaus.  Hailman's  Read- 
ing-room in  the  Kurgarten,  1  fl.  24  kr.  per 
week.  If  one  remains  eight  days  for  the 
cure,  he  pays  a  tax  of  five  florins  ;  if  chef 
defamille,  the  other  members  of  the  fam- 
ily pay  one  and  a  half  florins. 

The  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  Kis- 
singen  are  numerous.  Half  an  hour  to 
the  ruins  of  Botenlaube,  to  Allenberg,  Staf- 
feltsberg,  and  the  Grottos  Witchel. 

The  buildings  for  the  saline  evapora- 
tions are  about  half  an  hour  north  of 
Kissingen.  There  is  here  also  a  bathing- 
house  at  the  Soolsprudd,  an  artesian  well 
over  three  hundred  feet  deep. 

Twenty  minutes  farther,  at  the  village 
of  Hausen,  there  is  another  artesian  well 
called  the  Schonbomsbrunnen,  over  half  a 
mile  deep ! 

At  Bock'et,  one  hour  farther,  situated  on 
the  Saale,  an  iron  source  has  been  discov- 
ered. 

There  is  a  printed  tariff  for  carriages 
making  the  excursions,  to  which  the  vis- 
itor is  referred.] 

From  Schweinfurt  station  to  Bamberg, 
one  hour  and  twenty  minutes. 

Bamberg  is  one  of  the  most  imposing 
cities  in  Southern  Germany.  It  contains 
26,000  inhabitants.  Principal  hotels  are 
Deutschfs  If (ius,  Bamberger  ffof,  Drei  Kro- 
nen, and  Goldener  Adler.  It  is  splendidh- 
situated  on  five  hills.  A  suspension  bridge 
crosses  the  east  arm  of  the  Regnitz,  and 
leads  from  the  suburbs  to  the  town.  The 
Dom,  or  Cathedral,  is  the  principal  build- 
ing; it  was  founded  by  the  Emperor  Hen- 
ry II.  in  the  early  portion  of  the  llth  cen- 
tury. The  principal  monument  is  the 
tomb  of  the  royal  founder  and  his  empress, 
Kunigunde,  in  the  centre  of  the  nave. 
Notice  on  the  right  of  the  altar  the  monu- 
ment to  Bishop  Ebnet,  by  Vischer  of  Nu- 
remberg. It  is  of  bronze,  let  into  the 
642 


'  wall.     The  Schloss  will  repay  a  visit.     It 

;  was  Napoleon's  head-quarters  in  1806,  and 

;  here  he  issued  his  declaration  of  war  against 

Prussia,  in  October  of  the  same  year.     The 

French  Field-Marshal  Berthier,  Prince  of 

Neufchatel,  lost  his  life  here  in  1815,  by 

falling  from  one  of  the  windows. 

The  old  Rathhaus  with  its  faded  frescoes 
deserves  a  visit. 

In  MaanTnilianplafz  is  situated  an  ex- 
tensive I'rifsts'  Seminary,  and  in  the  mar- 
ket-place  the  Jesuit  church  of  St.  Mar- ' 
tin's. 

The  Lyceum  possesses  a  good  library 
and  valuable  MSS. 

The  Ludwig's  Canal,  which  connects  the 
Danube  with  the  Main,  completed  in  1846, 
here  unites  with  the  Regnitz,  and  is  crossed 
by  a  modern  iron  and  an  old  stone  bridge. 

The  church  of  St.  Michael  contains  at 
the  back  of  the  high-altar  a  monument  to 
St.  Otho.  Near  the  church  stands  the 
former  abbey,  founded  by  Henry  II.  in 
1009.  It  is  now  a  hospital,  on  the  upper 
floor  of  which  is  a  Picture-Gallery ;  admit- 
tance, 24  kr. 

There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  adjoining 
terrace. 

The  studio  of  C.  Schmidt  contains  some 
fine  paintings  on  porcelain. 

A  short  distance  from  the  town,  on  the 
summit  of  a  high  hill,  may  be  seen  the 
ruins  of  the  Castle  of  A  lte»burg,  the  resi- 
dence of  the  famous  robber-knight  Count 
Adelberg.  who  was  betrayed   by   Bishop 
Hatto,  of  Mayence,  into  the  hands  of  the 
Emperor   Lewis ;   and   it   was    here   that 
Otho  of  Wittelsbach  murdered  the  Em- 
peror Philip  II.     In  the  dungeon  where 
|  Berengarius  died  a  prisoner  you  may  now 
|  sit  down  and  drink  a  glass  of  first-rate 
j  beer.     The  view  from  the  donjon  tower  is 
j  very  magnificent.     There  is  a  chapel  fit- 
ted up  in  a  portion  of  the  castle. 

Passing  Lichtcnfels  (see  Route  No.  162), 
near  which  stands  the  sequestered  convent 
of  li  ///z,  now  the  seat  of  Duke  Max  of 
Bavaria,  Neuenmarkt  junction  is  reached, 
whence  a  railway  south  to  Bfiyre>ith.  One 
hour  and  a  half  and  ffof  junction  and  sta- 
tion is  reached.  This  small  Bavarian  town 
was  burned  in  1823,  and  contains  nothing 
of  importance.  It  is,  however,  a  very  im- 
portant junction  as  regards  the  meeting  of 
different  lines  of  railway ;  to  the  north  for 
Berlin,  Dresden,  or  Leipzig,  and  eouth»ast 


N  U  R  f 


2  Diinrs  Utuu. 

'•*  Jfiinref  Staiuiitiid  . 

5  XchaiKT  Snainen  . 

6  (Gymnasium  , 

7  funft  urui  VewerkschuU  . 

8  Cetitdldc-  Siunlunq  t  Landauer. 
Klastfr) 

9  . 

10  Wanhiiu.t  von  Hans  Saths 

11  Theater. 


Oberpostamt  . 
15     Germ,  Jfiaeum  . 


16  JTZorrnx. 

17  SfStbaldu*. 

18  StJegutim  . 


19    Frnuen  Kirvke. 

Of,l.Ce,st 
21 


Harper's  1 


El  RG 


ook 


FRAN/.KNM.  ID. 


j  I1IF.  EMPIRE  OK  GERMANY.] 


NUREMBERG. 


to  Egcr,  Maricnbad,  Carlsbad,  and  Franz- 
ensbad. 

[From  //of  to  Eg»>:  Time,  2  h.  5  m. 
Nineteen  minutes  north  of  E.^er  is 

Franzensbad. —  Hotels:  British,  Gisela, 
Holzer,  Hiibner,  Mttlkr,  and  Foft.  The  sit- 
uation of  the  town  is  charming,  it  being 
surrounded  by  lovely  drives  and  resorts. 
The  baths,  nine  in  number — besides  a  gase- 
ous spring  of  carbonic  acid  and  a  rich  deposit 
of  ferruginous  mud — are  ferruginous,  alka- 
line, saline,  are  remarkable  for  the  quantity 
of  carbonic  acid  which  they  contain,  and  are 
considered  excellent  in  cases  of  scrofula,  dis- 
eases of  the  skin,  impoverishment  of  the 
blood  (anemia  and  chlorosis)  and  its  effects, 
atony,  indigestion,  hemorrhoidal  affections, 
sterility,  impotence,  neuralgia,  hysteria, 
hypochondria,  disordered  menstruation, 
chronic  catarrh  of  the  mucous  membranes, 
etc.  There  are  4000  rooms  at  the  disposal 
of  guests,  a  fine  kurhaus,  splendid  orchestra, 
theatre ;  concerts,  reunions,  balls,  and  varied 
pastimes.  The  waters  are  shipped  to  all 
countries,  and  all  information  as  to  apart- 
ment?, etc.,  furnished,  on  application  by 
letter,  or  visit,  to  the  Biirgermeisleramt 
(  .Mayor's  Office).  Franzensbad  to  Eger 
jtinctitm  in  ten  minutes,  whence  to  Carlsbad 
'by  Route  No.  167  in  1  h.  16  in.;  and  to 
Marienbad  by  Route  No.  187  in  37  m. 

•.'"»  (Hotel  De%T),  21,000  inhabitants. 
Kathchln  castle  was  once  the  seat  of  the  Voigt. 

Hence  to  Leipzig  by  Route  No.  165,  and 
thence  to  Berlin  by  Route  No.  160. 

ROUTE  No.  170. 

Frankfort  to  Prague,  via  Wiirzburg,  Nu- 
remberg, and  Pilsen.  Time,  19  h.  43  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  58  marks  25  pf. ;  second 
class,  43  marks  30  pf. 

Frankfort  to  Vienna,  via  Nuremberg. 
Time,  17  h.  53  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  84 
marks ;  second  class,  60  marks  60  pf. 

Hanm,  described  in  Route  No.  165. 

Wiirzlurr/  in  Route  No.  174. 

From  Wiirzburg  to  Fiirth  in  2  h.  50  m. 
This  is  a  flourishing  manufacturing  town 
of  21,000  inhabitants,  and  rivals  Nurem- 
berg in  the  manufacture  of  articles  known 
as  Xurcml>erg  articles,  such  as  toys,  dolls, 
lead-pencils,  looking-glasses,  etc. 

Tlu>  principal  objects  of  attraction  are 
the  new  liathhanf,  with  its  handsome 
tower,  the  church,  and  the  Jewish  Syna- 
gogue. 


Southeast  of  Furth  on  a  height  is  situ- 
ated the  Old  Fortress,  known  by  the  famous 
battle  fought  there  in  1C32  between  Gus- 
tavus  Adolphus  and  Wallenstein. 

Xtti-'.-mberg  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
River  1'eicnitz,  and  contains  99,519  inhab- 
itants. Hotels:  Buy  ischer Hof, everything 
of  the  best ;  the  Strauss,  a  large,  fine,  new 
house  ;  Wurtembergtr  Hof,  a  finely  situated, 
new,  first-class  house,  opposite  the  station. 
Nuremberg  was  a  free  city  of  the  empire  till 
1806,  since  which  time  it  has  belonged  to  Ba- 
varia, and  is  now  the  second  city,  in  point  of 
size  and  importance,  in  the  kingdom.  It 
was  celebrated  during  the  Middle  Ages  as 
one  of  the  richest  cities  in  Europe,  and  still 
retains  considerable  of  its  former  prosper- 
ity. It  is  now  principally  noted  for  the 
manufacture  of  childrens'  toys,  which  are 
exported  to  all  civilized  countries ;  also  for 
bronze,  tin,  and  foil  used  by  jewelers ;  lead- 
pencils  are  manufactured  here  at  an  ex- 
tremely low  price.  The  city  is  surrounded 
by  ancient  walls  and  turrets.  The  walls 
are  encircled  by  a  dry  ditch,  100  feet  wido 
and  50  deep.  It  is  divided  into  two  parts 
by  the  River  Pegnitz,  which  is  crossed  by 
eight  bridges.  The  two  parts  of  the  town 
are  named  after  the  two  principal  churches : 
St.  Sebald's  side,  and  St.  Lawrence's  side. 
The  churches,  monuments,  and  public  and 
private  edifices  of  Nuremberg,  in  spite  of 
all  the  changes  of  centuries,  remain  almost 
unaltered,  having  escaped  unharmed  the 
sieges,  fires,  and  storms  of  war,  to  which 
most  other  cities  of  Europe  have  been  sub- 
jected. The  principal  houses  are  mostly 
built  of  stone,  in  the  most  substantial  man- 
ner, with  singular  gables,  which  front  the 
street ;  the  streets  are  narrow  and  tortu- 
ous. A  few  days  may  be  spent  here  with 
interest. 

The  churches  and  public  buildings  of 
Nuremberg  owe  much  to  eminent  painters 
and  sculptors  which  she  raised,  such  as  Al- 
bert Diirer,  his  master  "NVohlgcmuth,  and 
pupils  Kulmbach,  Schauflelen.  and  Alt- 
dorfer ;  the  sculptors  Adam  Krafft  and 
Stoss,  all  known  to-day  as  leading  masters 
in  their  respective  branches. 

The  fine  Gothic  church  of  St.  Larrrence 
is  the  principal  one  in  Nuremberg:  it  is 
dedicated  to  the  gridiron  saint  of  Spain. 
It  was  constructed  between  the  years  1278 
and  1477,  of  a  rich  brown  freestone.  Be- 
643 


NUKEMBEKG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


NUREMBERG. 


tween  the  two  towers  is  a  magnificent  port- 
al, with  numerous  sculptures  representing 
the  Last  Judgment,  with  scenes  in  the  lite 
and  sufferings  of  the  Saviour.  The  bride's 
door,  on  the  northern  side,  is  also  very 
magnificent.  The  interior  of  the  church 
contains  some  magnificent  carvings,  gor- 
geous painted  glass  windows,  mostly  gifts 
to  the  church  from  noble  families,  whose 
coats  of  arms  they  contain.  The  principal 
object  of  attraction  in  the  church  is  the  im- 
mense stone  Sacramenlshduskin,  or  Sanctu- 
ary, which  contains  the  sacramental  wa- 
fers :  it  is  sixty-five  feet  high,  and  of  very 
exquisite  finish,  as  is  also  the  more  modern 
Stone  pulpit. 

Notice  the  small  statue  of  the  Emperor 
Adolphus  opposite  the  northern  tower. 

The  Theatre,  Museum,  and  Post-office 
are  all  on  the  St.  Lawrence  side  of  the  riv- 
er. After  crossing  the  river  we  arrive  at 
the  Market-place,  on  the  east  side  of  which 
stands  the  Frauenkirche,  or  Notre  Dame. 
It  is  open  from  7  to  10  A.M. ;  was  erected 
in  the  14th  century,  and  is  adorned  with 
numerous  sculptures  by  Schonhover.  The 
interior  is  highly  ornamented  with  monu- 
ments, many  of  them  having  been  removed 
from  other  churches  of  Nuremberg.  No- 
tice especially  the  Pergensdorfer  monu- 
ment, by  Adam  Krafft.  Notice  also  the 
picture  of  the  High  Altar,  which  is  one  of 
the  best  in  the  cit}',  painted  at  so  early  a 
date  as  the  14th  century. 

The  Public  Library  is  situated  in  an 
ancient  convent  of  the  Dominicans.  It 
comprises  40,000  volumes  and  800  MSS., 
with  numerous  valuable  autographs  and 
astronomical  instruments.  On  the  ground 
floor  there  are  collections  of  plaster  casts 
and  sculptures  in  wood. 

In  front  of  Notre  Dame  stands  the 
Schonbrunnen,  or  Beautiful  Fountain,  the 
masterpiece  of  the  Brothers  Schonhover. 
Behind  Notre  Dame  stands  another  fount- 
ain, called  the  Gdnsemannchen,  or  Goose 
Fountain,  from  the  name  of  the  market- 
place in  which  it  stands. 

As  we  proceed  along  the  Burgstrasse  we 
arrive  on  our  right  at  the  Hatkhaus,  or  Ho- 
tel de  Ville,  constructed  in  1619.  In  the 
grand  saloon,  which  is  in  the  ancient  por- 
tion of  the  building,  and  dates  back  to  the 
year  1340,  may  be  seen  a  fine  picture  by 
Albert  Diirer,  representing  the  triumphal 
cortege  of  the  Emperor  Maximilian.  No- 
644 


tice  especially  a  fresco  by  Weyer,  repre- 
senting an  exi-cution  by  guillotine  two  and  a 
ha'f  centuries  before  that  instrument  is  gen- 
erally supposed  to  have  been  invented  !  prov- 
ing emphatically  that  neither  Guillotin, 
who  proposed  it  to  the  Constituent  Assem- 
bly in  1789,  nor  Dr.  Antoine  Louis,  born 
at  Metz  in  1723,  who  has  the  credit  of  in- 
venting it,  were  its  authors,  as  this  fresco 
dates  from  1521,  two  hundred  years  before 
either  of  them  were  born.  There  is  but 
little  to  be  seen  in  the  building  at  present, 
except  the  decoration  of  the  rooms ;  but 
could  its  dungeons  or  its  torture-cham- 
bers, with  their  infernal  instruments  of  tor- 
ture, speak,  thej'  could  describe  frightful 
stories  of  civilization  in  the  16th  century. 

St.  Sebald' s  Church  (shown  by  the  sacris- 
tan, fee  12  kr.)  is  the  second  finest  church 
in  Nuremberg,  and  is  considered  one  of  the 
finest  in  Germany.  It  was  finished  toward 
the  close  of  the  14th  century,  all  but  the 
towers,  which  were  not  completed  until  the 
end  of  the  15th.  Here  again  that  celebra- 
ted sculptor  in  wood,  Adam  Krafft,  has  im- 
mortalized himself  in  the  exterior  decora- 
tions. Notice  especially  his  Last  Judg- 
ment on  the  southern  side.  The  interior 
contains  numerous  gems  in  carving  and 
sculpture.  The  principal  object  of  attrac- 
tion is  Peter  Vischer's  Shrine  of  St.  Sebald. 
It  is  said  he  and  sons  were  employed  on 
it  for  the  space  of  thirteen  years.  Be- 
neath the  canopy,  the  relics  of  the  miracle- 
working  saint  repose  in  an  oaken  box,  in- 
cased with  silver.  There  are  nearly  one 
hundred  figures  in  bronze  of  different  sizes, 
including  the  twelve  apostles,  the  fathers 
of  the  Church,  and  numerous  mythological 
figures.  Under  the  cofBn  are  bas-relief 
representations  of  the  saint's  various  mira- 
cles, such  as  burning  icicles,  turning  bread 
into  stone,  etc. 

Opposite  St.  Sebald,  on  the  northern 
side,  is  tli3  Picture-gallery  of  Nuremberg, 
formerly  the  ancient  chapel  of  St.  Maurice. 
It  contains  nearly  two  hundred  pictures  of 
the  Flemish  and  German  school.  Open  to 
the  public  on  Sundays  and  Wednesdays 
from  10  to  12,  and  at  other  times  for  a  fee 
of  24  kr.  for  a  party. 

Near  the  Fleischerbrucke  is  an  Indus- 
trial Museum,  Open  Mondays,  Tuesdays, 
and  Wednesdays,  from  2  to  5,  and  Sundays 
from  10  to  1.30.  It  contains  a  collection  of 
ancient  and  modern  industrial  articles. 


NUREMBERG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


KARLSTEIN. 


In  the  Durerplatz  is  a  fine  bronze  statue  ' 
of  the    celebrated  painter,  by   Rauch,  of  J 
Berlin  :  it  was  erected  in  1840.    The  house  ] 
where  he  was  born,  No.  376  Albert  Diirer 
Street,  still  remains;   it  is  occupied  by  a 
society  of  artists. 

The  Froscktfutrm,  a.  few  minutes  east  of 
the  castle,  contains  a  chamber  of  torture, 
with  a  collection  of  interesting  and  horri- 
ble instruments  of  torture.  Ring  the  bell 
at  the  gate.  A  fee  of  twelve  kreutzers  is 
expected. 

The  Burg,  or  Castle,  is  built  on  a  high 
rock,  and  occupies  the  most  conspicuous 
position  within  the  town.  It  is  supposed 
to  have  been  erected  by  Conrad  III.  in 
1030,  and  was  for  a  long  time  his  favorite 
residence,  as  well  as  of  many  of  his  success- 
ors ;  fee  24  kr.  Notice  in  the  chapel  the 
fine  bas-reliefs.  A  portion  of  the  castle 
has  been  recently  fitted  up  as  a  royal  resi- 
dence. Among  other  paintings  here  there 
is  a  portrait  of  Albert  Diirer  :  this  is  a  copy; 
the  original  was  stolen  by  the  painter  en- 
gaged to  copy  it  and  sold  to  the  Elector  of 
Bavaria,  and  the  copy  put  in  its  place.  In 
another  portion  of  the  castle  there  is  an 
exhibition  of  the  works  of  native  artists. 
Notice  the  lime-tree  in  the  court-yard  :  it 
is  said  to  be  over  seven  hundred  years  old. 

Visit  next  the  Chapel  of  St.  Giles  to  see 
Vandyke's  great  painting  of  the  Dead 
Christ.  It  is  the  altar-piece.  The  Lan- 
dauer  Kloster  contains  some  200  pictures ; 
the  principal  is  the  Banquet  given  on  the 
occasion  of  the  Peace  of  Westphalia,  by 
Sandrart.  There  are  also  several  works 
by  VLschcr  and  Albert  Durer  in  the  col- 
lection. Open.  Sundays  and  Wednesdays, 
from  2  to  5  P.M. 

A  visit  to  the  Church-yard  of  St.  John, 
outside  the  walls,  should  be  made.  The 
monuments  and  grave-stones  are  all  num- 
bered, and  many  of  them  are  very  elegant. 
Among  the  number  is  that  of  the  good  and 
gentle  Albert  Durer,  who  was  brought  to 
an  untimely  end  by  his  scolding  wife.  In 
the  15th  century  a  citizen  of  Nuremberg, 
Martin  Kctzel,  visited  Jerusalem  for  the 
purpose  of  getting  the  exact  distances  be- 
tiie  various  stages  in  going  from 
Pilate's  house  to  Calvary,  that  he  might 
represent  the  various  scenes  in  the  Passion 
of  the  Saviour  between  his  own  house, 
which  is  opposite  Albert  Dilrer's,  and  the 
gate  of  the  church-yard.  After  his  return 


he  discovered  that  he  had  lost  the  measure- 
ment, when  he  again  returned  to  the  Holy 
Land,  in  company  with  Duke  Otho  of  Ba- 
varia, and  brought  back  the  proper  dis- 
tances, and  erected  seven  stone  pillars, 
each  one  containing  a  bas-relief,  by  Adam, 
Krafft,  of  the  different  scenes  in  the  Pas- 
sion. 

Nuremberg  has  also  another  cemetery, 
that  of  St.  Rock. 

The  Germanisches  Museum :  it  is  placed 
in  the  convent  of  Chartreux  ;  it  was  found- 
ed by  Baron  Aufsess  in  1852.  It  contains 
a  most  interesting  collection  of  historical 
relics  and  national  antiquities.  In  the  prin- 
cipal hall  is  Kaulbach's  great  picture,  tha 
opening  of  the  grave  of  Charlemagne  by 
Otho  III. 

Some  of  the  large  manufactories  should 
be  visited,  especially  that  of  Cramer-Klett. 
a  wagon  manufacturer,  who  employs  3500 
men ;  the  permanent  Exposition  of  the 
Society  Durer's  modern  pictures.  In  ob- 
jects of  papier-mache,  Fleischmann's  is  the 
best ;  and  Behl  for  sculptured  ivory. 

Nuremberg  to  Paris,  via  Strasburg  or  Bin- 
gerbriick.  Time,  21  h. ;  fare,  84  mk.  30  pf. 

Nuremberg  to  Vienna.  Time,  12  h.  20 
m. ;  fare,  first  class,  50  marks  45  pf. 

Nuremberg  to  Prague.  Time,  12  h.  10 
m. ;  fare,  first  class,  33  marks  95  pf. 

Nuremberg  to  Munich.  Time,  5  hours ; 
fare,  first  class,  18  marks  15  pf. 

Nuremberg  to  Rutiibon.  Time,  2  h.  12 
m. ;  fare,  first  class,  9  marks  25  pf. 

Passing  Xchicandorf,  the  junction  of  the 
line  from  Ratisbon  to  Eger,  and  Pil.<en,  de- 
scribed in  Route  No.  187.  At  Horowitz  there 
are  numerous  iron-works,  and  the  castle  of 
the  Elector  of  Hessen. 

Karlstein  station,  near  which  is  the  most 
remarkable  castle  in  Bohemia,  Schloss  Karl- 
stein  ;  it  was  constructed  about  the  middle 
of  the  14th  century  by  the  Emperor  Charles 
IV.,  and  decorated  with  nameless  treasures 
of  art,  most  of  which  have  been  removed. 
The  small  chapel  of  St.  Catharine  consisted 
of  a  recess  built  in  the  solid  wall,  which  is 
twelve  feet  thick,  and  is  inlaid  with  pre- 
cious stones,  and  contains  portraits  of  the 
emperor  and  empress  kneeling  before  the 
Virgin.  The  Chapel  of  the  Cross  formerly 
contained  the  Bohemian  regalia  and  other 
valuables,  which  were  secured  by  four  iron 
doors  and  nineteen  locks.  The  chapel  is 
also  sumptuously  decorated,  and  contains 
645 


TlIARAND. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


FREIBERG. 


portraits   of  130   saints,  by  Theodoric,  of 
Prague. 

Prague.    (For  description,  see  Route  No. 
188  > 


ROUTE  No.  171. 

Dresden  to  Schwarzenburg,  via  Freiberg, 
Chemnitz,  and  Zwickau.  Time,  5  h.  35  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  16  marks  30  pf. 

The  line  passes  through  a  picturesque 
valley  called  the  Plawnsche  Grund,  where 
in  a  coal-mine  276  miners  lost  their  lives 
by  an  explosion  in  1869. 

Tharand,  a  small  watering-place,  roman- 
tically situated,  containing  1750  inhabit- 
ants. Hotels,  Deiitsches  Haus  and  Bad. 
The  town  is  commanded  l>y  an  old  castle. 
formerly  a  hunting-seat  of  the  ancestors  of 
the  present  kings  of  Saxony.  The  sides  of 
the  hill  behind  the  castle  are  covered  with 
a  dense  wood,  through  which  are  cut  beau- 
tiful promenades. 

The  Forst-Academie  is  a  nursery  where 
students  are  instructed  in  all  the  details  of 
planting  and  cultivating  trees,  for  timber 
and  for  ornament. 

At  HUbersdorf  there  is  a  royal  foundry, 
646 


called  Muld'-ntr  Hutte.  The  line  crosses 
I  the  river  Mulde  by  a  viaduct  74  feet  high, 
near  which  are  silver -mines  producing 
about  700,000  marks  per  annum. 

Freiberg,  an  old  imperial  city,  and  for  a 
long  time  the  residence  of  the  Saxon 
princes,  contains  20,000  inhabitants.  Ho- 
tels, De  Saxe  and  Rather  Hirsch.  The  town 
was  founded  immediately  after  the  discov- 
ery of  its  silver-mines  in  1171.  The  prin- 
cipal part  of  the  population  are  occupied  in 
the  mines,  which  produce  yearly  nearly 
4,000,000  marks.  It  is  calculated  that  up 
to  the  present  time  (1876)  they  have  pro- 
duced 888,000,000  marks. 

The  population  of  Freiberg  was  at  one 
time  double  that  of  the  present.  It  is  hand- 
somely situated  on  the  Miinzbach,  is  the 
centre  of  the  Saxon  mines,  and  the  seat  of 
their  administration.  The  miners  are  en- 
rolled in  a  military  corps,  the  workmen  be- 
ing privates,  and  the  managers  and  inspect- 
ors officers,  and  assemble  several  times  a 
year  for  parade,  on  which  occasion  thev 
wear  a  uniform  with  the  hinder  apron,  and 
earn'  the  implement  with  which  they  work. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  Gothic  structure, 
erected  towai-d  the  close  of  the  loth  cen- 
tury. It  was  constructed  on  the  site  of 
an  older  church  destroyed  by  fire  in  1484, 
of  which  one  of  the  great  sights  of  the  pres- 
ent church  is  the  Golden  Gate,  partially 
restored  and  richly  ornamented.  Behind 
the  altar  is  the  tomb  of  Maurice  of  Sax- 
ony;  it  is  a  sarcophagus,  richly  decorat- 
ed, surmounted  with  his  kneeling  effigy. 
Above  the  monument,  in  a  niche,  is  the 
armor  he  wore  on  the  battle-field  of  Sievers- 
hausen.  He  was  shot  after  gaining  the 
victory,  and  the  hole  in  the  armor  is  visi- 
ble. Forty-one  members  of  the  house  of 
Saxony  are  interred  here,  from  Henry  the 
Pious  down. 

Notice  the  two  beautiful  Gothic  pulpits. 

Adjoining  the  cathedral  there  is  a  fine 
cloister. 

The  flat/ihaus  dates  from  1410,  and  is  a 
good  specimen  of  the  Gothic  architecture 
of  that  date. 

The  School  oj  Mines,  founded  in  1765, 
possesses  a  rich  collection  of  specimens  of 
the  mineral  productions  of  Saxony.  Stu- 
dents repair  here  from  all  parts  of  the  world 
for  instruction  in  the  mining  art.  Hum- 
bold  t  and  Werner  were  students  of  this  in- 
stitution. The  tomb  of  the  last  mentioned 


CHEMNITZ. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


is  in  the  cloister  of  the  cathedral,  and  a 
monument  lias  been  erected  to  him  near 
the  rustle. 

Tin;  collection  of  the  machinery  used  in 
mining  is  most  interesting.  To  visit  one  of 
the  mint's  permission  must  be  obtained  from 
the  Bergmi'isti'r,  when  travelers  are  pro- 
vided with  a  dress  at  the  entrance,  some 
two  miles  from  the  town. 

In  the  market-place  a  round  stone  marks 
the  place  where  the  robber-knight  Kunz  of 
Kaufungen  was  beheaded.  It  was  he  who 
stole  the  two  young  Saxon  princes,  Ernest 
and  Albert,  from  their  father's  castle  at 
Altenlmrg. 

In  the  northwest  part  of  the  town  is  the 
ancient  castle  of  Freudeiisfein. 

A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  Amal- 
i/iimir-  \\'irk>>  at  Ifnkbriicke,  to  witness  the 
extraction  of  silver  from  the  ore  by  means 
of  quicksilver. 

From  Freiberg  to  Chemnitz  the  small 
town  otOetl'ran  is  passed  ;  then  the  fine  im- 
posing castle  of  AugHstunburg,  built  in  1572 
by  the  Elector  Augustus  ;  then  the  borough 
of  Schellenberg,  and  in  the  distance  the  Erz- 
gebirgp. 

F/oha,  a  small  town,  remarkable  as  the 
birthplace  of  the  great  statesman  Pufen- 
dorf.  There  is  a  branch  line  from  here  to 
.1  unnbcrg  in  1  h.  45  m.  This  is  a  busy  lit- 
tle manufacturing  town. 

From  the  station  Nicder-  Weisa  there  is 
a  branch  line  to  the  two  small  manufactur- 
ing towns  of  Frankenberg  and  //ayiric/un. 

Chemni/z,  the  most  important  manufact- 
uring town  in  Saxony.  It  is  situated  at 
the  base  of  the  Erzgebirge,  in  a  fertile  val- 
ley, and  contains  63,500  inhabitants.  Prin- 
cipal hotels,  Kkiucr  Enrjel,  Rvmischer  Kai- 
Sfr,  Stadt  Got/ia,  Stadt  Berlin,  and  I  'ictoria. 
Its  staple  productions  are  cotton  stockings 
and  other  cotton  fabrics;  the  former  are 
both  better  and  cheaper  than  those  manu- 
factured in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 
Nearly  the  entire  production  is  sent  to  the 
I  'niu-d  States.  The  average  price  is  about 
3i  marks  the  dozen,  or  about  7i  cents  the 
p:iir!  There  is  one  establishment  alone 
that  has  over  eighteen  hundred  spindles. 
Spinning  machinery  is  also  largely  manu- 
factured here;  also  locomotives,  one  man- 
ufactory employing  '2501)  men. 

For  works  of  art  there  is  not  much  of  in- 
terest. The  Jtatkktius  is  situated  on  the 
Hauptmarkt,  surmounted  by  a  high  towei. 


ZWICKAU. 


The  Stadtkirche  has  a  fine  carved  portal. 
There  is  also  nClith  Hall  and  an  K.rctutnge. 

The  ancient  fortifications  have  been  con- 
verted into  agreeable  promenades. 

Mr.  Cropsey,  United  States  consul  here, 
is  exceedingly  polite  to  American  travelers. 

There  is  a  branch  line  running  north  to 
Meissen,  and  one  northwest  to  Leipzig. 

Our  route  continues  through  a  thickly 
populated  district,  the  inhabitants  of  which 
are  mostly  engaged  in  the  stocking  trade. 

Passing  Glauchau,  a  manufacturing  town 
situated  on  the  Mulde,  with  a  population  of 
22,000  (hotel,  Deutsches  Ilaus),  we  arrive  at 
Zicickau  (hotels,  Post  and  Deutscher  Kai- 
ser). This  picturesque  old  town,  surround- 
ed by  a  wall,  is  situated  on  the  Zwickauer 
Mn/ile,  and  contains  26,000  inhabitants. 

The  M<ti  ientircke  is  a  fine  Gothic  church 
dating  from  the  middle  of  the  15th  century. 
It  is  surmounted  by  a  tall  tower.  The 
altar-piece,  which  is  by  Wohlgemutk,  is  very 
line ;  it  represents  the  Virgin,  with  nine 
female  saints,  life  size.  Beneath  it  there  is 
another  winged  altar-piece,  richly  carved 
in  wood,  by  Adam  Krafft.  The  Baptistery 
contains  a  picture  by  Cranach,  "Suffer lit- 
tle children  to  come  unto  me." 

The  Catherinenkirche  contains  an  altar- 
piece  of  the  "  Feet-washing."  Thomas 
Miinzer,  one  of  the  Anabaptist  leaders  who 
was  beheaded  at  Miihlhausen,  was  at  one 
time  minister  here. 

There  are  numerous  coal-beds  in  the  vi- 
cinity. 

Passing  the  junction  of  Nieder-Schlema, 
from  whence  there  is  a  branch  line  to 
Schneeb(rg  (15  minutes),  a  small  town  of 
7500  inhabitants,  the  principal  church  of 
which  has  a  picture  of  the  Virgin,  the 
masterpiece  of  Cranach,  we  arrive  at 

Schwarzenberg,  the  terminus  of  the  line. 
a  small  town  of  3700  inhabitants,  surround- 
ed by  mountains,  and  commanded  by  an 
ancient  castle.  There  are  important  iron- 
works in  the  vicinity. 


647 


G6RLIT?:. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BAVARIA, 


ROUTE  No.  172. 

Berlin  to  Gorlitz,  via  Cottbus.  (Excursion 
to  the  Riesengebirge.)  Time,  4  h.  50  ra. ; 
fare,  first  class,  16  marks  70  pf. ;  second 
class,  12  marks  50  pf. 

To  Vienna,  via  Gorlitz.  Time,  18  h.  34 
m. ;  fare,  65  marks  40  pf. 

Lubben,  situated  on  the  Spree,  contains 
6000  inhabitants. 

Cottbus  junction,  a  busy  manufacturing 
town  of  18,200  inhabitants,  finely  situated 
on  the  Spree,  with  branch  railways  to  Gu- 
ben  and  Frankfort,  also  to  Forst.  The  in- 
habitants are  principally  occupied  in  the 
manufacture  of  cloth.  There  is  a  collection 
of  Wend  antiquities. 

Gorlitz  (hotel, Krone),  formerly  belonging 
to  Saxony,  now  the  capital  of  the  Prussian 
province  of  Upper  Lusatia,  is  situated  on 
the  River  Xeisse.  Population,  43,000.  It 
retains  many  marks  of  antiquity.  Cloth 
and  linen  are  its  principal  productions. 

The  church  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  Peter, 
one  of  the  largest  in  Saxony,  deserves  a 
visit. 

The  Kreuzlcirche  contains  a  representa- 
tion of  the  Saviour's  Passion.  In  the  upper 
story  is  a  representation  of  the  Last  Sup- 
per, behind  which  is  a  miniature  copy  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre. 

About  four  miles  distant  is  the  prominent 
hill  of  Landskrone,  from  whence  there  is  a 
beautiful  view. 

Notice  the  splendid  viaduct,  1500  feet 
long,  which  carries  the  Breslau  Railway 
across  the  Neisse. 
648 


About  three  hours  from  Gorlitz  are  situ- 
ated the  baths  of  Liebemrerda.  situated  in  a 
beautiful  country,  near  which  is  the  cele- 
brated castle  of  Friedland,  from  which  Wal- 
lenstein  received  his  title  of  Duke  ;  it  was 
presented  to  him  by  the  Emperor  Ferdinand, 
and  is  now  the  property  of  the  Count  Clam 
Gallas,  and  contains  numerous  interest- 
ing relics  of  Wallenstein.  An  excursion 
through  the  Riesfnyebirge  (or  Giant  Mount- 
ains) may  be  made  from  this  point. 


BAVARIA. 

Bavaria  consists  of  two  distinct  divisions 
of  territory,  which  cover  an  area  of  29,628 
square  miles,  and  contains  a  population  of 
5,284,778,  three  and  a  half  millions  of  whom 
are  Catholics,  and  five  thousand  Jews.  The 
larger  division  is  bounded  on  the  south  and 
east  by  the  German  provinces  of  Austria  ; 
on  the  west  by  the  kingdom  of  Wurtemberg. 
and  the  duchy  of  Baden ;  and  on  the  north 
by  the  smaller  German  states.  The  smaller 
portion  is  to  the  westward  of  the  Rhine, 
and  bordering  on  the  French  frontier.  It 
has  a  mean  elevation  of  sixteen  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  two  hun- 
dred miles  long,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty 
wide.  The  greater  portion  of  Bavaria  is 
within  the  basin  of  the  Danube,  which 
crosses  the  country  from  west  to  east,  and 
is  watered  by  that  river  and  its  numerous 
affluents.  The  climate  is  in  general  tem- 
perate and  salubrious. 

Bavaria  is  particularly  noted  for  the 
good  quality  of  its  beer,  which  is  far  supe- 
rior to  that  of  any  other  country  ;  in  fact, 


M  U 


»-*l..l,» 

9  KasUica 

10  KarUfjl.  fuvi fieri  x 

11  /Jaxur- 

12  ^rtivw 

.  13  f'uJtisf  d.  t/erxcyjf 


29  Academic 

30  FeldJusrrriJuiMr 

31  (iutaflerie 

32  Kvnujl  K 


C  H 


book 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


Mcxicu, 


its  flavor  is  entirely  different ;  but  you  must 
drink  it  in  Munich.  The  quantity  drunk 
and  brewed  is  incredible.  Allowing  twen- 
ty-live million  gallons  to  be  exported  every 
year,  the  quantity  brewed  would  leave  sev- 
enteen gallons  per  annum  to  every  man, 
woman,  and  child  in  the  kingdom. 

The  population  of  Bavaria  does  not  in- 
crease so  rapidly  as  in  other  German  prov- 
inces, principally  owing  to  the  law  regulat- 
ing marriages,  which  says  that  "  no  mar- 
riage between  persons  without  capital  shall 
be  allowed  without  the  permission  of  the 
poor  institutions."  If  any  of  the  superin- 
tendents of  the  poor,  -whose  duty  it  is  to 
keep  a  careful  watch  on  persons  wishing 
to  evade  this  law,  should  be  derelict  in  their 
duty,  they  are  answerable  for  the  mainte- 
nance of  the  families  arising  from  the  union, 
should  they  not  be  able  to  maintain  them- 
selves. The  law  is  unquestionably  a  good 
one  to  prevent  improvident  unions,  but  on 
tlie  score  of  morality  it  is  questionable,  as 
in  Munich  half  the  births  are  illegitimate. 

The  government  of  Bavaria  is  constitu- 
tional and  hereditary,  and  by  treaty  with 
the  Confederation  of  Northern  Germany  in 
1*7(1  the  right  of  surveillance  over  persons 
settling  in  Bavaria  is  not  permitted  to  the 
finpire. 

Tin-  kingdom  of  Bavaria  reserves  to  it- 
•  •  exclusive  administration  of  the  post 
and  telegraph,  and  the  army  of  Bavaria 
forms  a  separate  and  distinct  part  of  the 
German  arm}-,  having  an  independent  ad- 
ministration, and  is  placed  under  the  mili- 
tary sovereignty  of  the  King  of  Bavaria, 
but  in  times  of  war  under  the  emperor,  as 
commander-in-chief  of  the  imperial  army. 

Its  army  comprises  two  army  corps,!  and 
2,  divided  each  in  two  divisions. 

The  public  debt  of  Bavaria  amounts 
to  793,000,000  marks.  Its  receipts  and 
expenses  annually  amount  to  212,000,000 
marks. 

The  reigning  sovereign  of  Bavaria  is  a 
member  of  the  house  of  Wittelsbach, which 
is  Catholic.  Louis  II.,Otho  Frederick  Will- 
iam. King  of  Bavaria,  Count  Palatine  of 
the  Rhine,  Duke  of  Bavaria,  uf  l-'ranconia, 
and  of  Suabia.  He  was  born  at  Nymphen- 
burg.  August  -2.~)th,  IX  l,"j.  Hi-  succeeded  his 
father.  Maximilian  II.,  March  10th,  1864. 
He  has  only  one  brother,  Prince  Otho,  born 
April  27th,  1848. 

Munich,  the  capital  of  Bavaria,  is  situ- 


ated on  the  left  bank  of  the  River  Isar, 
and  contains  230,023  inhabitants.  Its 
principal  hotels  are:  Bayerischer  //^(Ba- 
varian Hotel),  Zu  den  I'ier  Juhrtsztiten 
(The  Four  Seasons  Hotel),  and  the  H6td 
<T  Angkterre  (Engliscker  Hof).  The  Bava- 
rian is  an  immense  establishment,  situ- 
ated on  Promenadenplatz,  one  of  the  finest 
positions  in  the  city.  The  rooms  are  all 
large,  spacious,  and  cheap.  American  and 
English  papers  are  kept  in  the  reading- 
room  ;  hot  and  cold  baths  in  the  house  :  a 
fine  elevator,  etc. ;  servants  speak  all  lan- 
guages. The  Four  Seasons  is  very  finely 
situated  in  the  Neu  Maximilian  Street, 
near  the  Place  Max  Joseph  and  the  Theatre. 
This  street  is  the  fashionable  promenade, 
and  contains  the  finest  houses  in  Munich, 
and  perhaps  in  Germany.  This  spacious 
hotel  is  furnished  in  the  best  manner  pos- 
sible, and  is  noted  for  its  cuisine,  wines,  and 
attendance.  It  has  a  hydraulic  elevator, 
and  is  much  patronized  by  American  and 
English  travelers.  It  contains  numerous 
private  saloons,  dining  -  saloons,  coffee, 
billiard,  and  smoking  rooms ;  hot  and  cold 
baths.  The  terms  are  very  moderate. 
Hotel  d'Angleterre,  a  reasonable  first-class 
house  near  the  theatres.  Koyal  Palace,  etc., 
well  conducted  by  Mr.  Straub.  Avoid  all 
other  hotels  near  the  station,  management 
and  patronage  being  of  a  lower  order. 


Munich  is  considered,  in  proportion  to  its 
size,  one  of  the  finest  cities  of  Europe ;  and 
perhaps,  with  the  exception  of  Florence  and 
Madrid,  shines  conspicuously  above  all  the 
others  in  regard  to  its  extensive  collections 
of  works  of  art,  principally  brought  togeth- 
er under  the  care  of  Ludwig  I.,  king  of 
Bavaria,  who,  to  the  Dtisseldorf  Gallery, 
removed  here  by  Max  Joseph,  and  the  Man- 
heim  collection,  transferred  to  Munich  by 
the  Elector  Palatine,  added  the  galleries  of 
Nuremberg,  Bambcrg,  Augsburg.  Wallen- 
stein,  and  Boisseree.  It  is  also  rich  in  pub- 
lic buildings  of  various  kinds,  and  has  nu- 
merous gardens,  squares,  and  monuments. 
In  this  last  it  shines  most  conspicuous :  the 
genius  of  Schwantkaler,  Stiglmayer,  and 
HI 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH. 


Miller,  as  well  as  the  great  facilities  for  cast- 
ing monuments  in  bronze,  has  been  appre- 
ciated in  many  of  the  cities  of  Europe  as  well 
as  America.  In  literature  it  also  stands 
prominent,  and  its  public  library  is,  next 
to  that  of  Paris,  the  largest  in  the  world. 

To  see  Munich  thoroughly,  and  to  save 
time,  one  should  employ  a  valet  de  place. 
In  fact,  without  one  it  is  impossible  to  see 
the  royal  palace — at  least  the  whole  of  it. 

Carriage-hire  in  Munich  is  very  reason- 
able. There  are  two  kinds  of  conveyances, 
the  fiacre  and  droschke.  The  fiacres  are 
carriages  with  two  horses,  and  have  seats 
for  four  persons.  This  class  of  carriage 
charges  for  one  or  two  persons  to  and  from 
the  railway  d6pot,  45  pf. ;  for  three  or  four 
persons,  70  pf.  A  droschke,  for  one  or  two 
persons,  to  or  from  the  depot,  40  pf.  In  the 
city  or  the  suburbs,  by  the  hour,  the  follow- 
ing is  the  tariff:  for  fiacres.  J  hour,  one  or  two 
persons,  40  pf. ;  three  or  four  persons,  70  pf.  • 
^  hour,  one  or  two  persons,  1  mark ;  three 
or  four  persons,  1  mark  :  £  hour,  one  or  two 
persons,  1  mark ;  three  or  four  persons,  1  m. 
75  pf. :  1  hour,  one  or  two  persons,  1  m.  30 
pf. ;  three  or  four  persons,  2  marks.  For 
every  quarter  of  an  hour  35  pf.  additional. 
The  droschke  charges,  by  the  hour,  or 
parts  of  hours,  the  following:  -J  hour,  for 
one  or  two  persons,  45  pf. :  ^  hour,  for  one 
or  two  persons,  70  pf. :  1  hour,  for  one  or 
two  persons,  1  m.  20  pf. :  1J  hour,  2  marks : 
2  hours,  3  marks. 

During  the  night  there  is  an  extra 
charge  of  10  pf.  for  every  quarter  of  an  hour 
for  the  lanterns.  After  10  o'clock  the  fare 
is  double.  It  is  not  customary,  nor  is  it 
expected  in  Munich,  to  give  pourboire  to 
the  driver. 

It  is  impossible  to  give  the  time  at  which 
the  different  sights  of  Munich  may  be  vis- 
ited, as  it  is  continually  being  changed, 
but  it  is  published  in  a  daily  paper,  the 
Tagesanz  iyer,  to  which  we  refer  travelers. 
The  most  important  places,  however,  can 
be  given ;  viz. :  Die  ResHenz,  or  Royal  Pal- 
ace, every  day,  at  11  A.M.,  except  Sunday. 
The  Pinacothek,  or  Picture-gallery,  every 
day  but  Saturday,  from  9  to  2,  with  Cab- 
inetof  Drawings  and  Engravings.  The  New 
Pinacothek  is  c'osed  Mondays. Wednesdays, 
and  Fridays,  being  open  the  other  four  days 
from  8  to  12,  and  from  2  to  4.  The 
Glyptothek,  or  Sculpture-gallery,  open  ev- 
ery Monday  and  Friday,  from  8  to  12. 
650 


and  from  2  to  4,  and  Wednesday  from  8 
to  12.  The  Library,  from  10  to  12,  except 
Sunday ;  fee,  70  pf.  Statue  of  Bavaria,  ev- 
ery day;  fee,  35  pf.  National  Museum, 
daily,  except  Monday,  from  10  to  2;  Sun- 
day and  Thursday  gratis  ;  other  days,  90  pf. 
Anatomical  Museum,  daily,  from  9  to  12, 
and  from  2  to  4.  Art  Exhibition,  opposite 
the  Glyptothek,  daily,  in  summer  from  9  to 
5 ;  fee,  35  pf.  Royal  A  cademy  of  Science, 
from  10  to  12;  fossils,  Saturday,  from  10 
to  1. 

Erzgiesserei,  or  Royal  Foundry,  daily,  from 
1  to  6 ;  Sunday,  from  12  to  2 ;  fee,  35  pf. 

Kunstverein,  or  Art  Union,  from  9  to  C. 
Strangers  must  be  introduced  by  mcmlwr?. 
Month!}-  tickets,  1  florin  each. 

Schioanthaler  Museum,  Monday,  Wednes- 
day, and  Friday,  gratis;  other  days,  fee, 
35  pf. 

Schack's  Picture- Gallery,  from  2  to  5; 
fee,  70  pf. 

Wimmer  Collection,  daily,  gratis. 


The  Resident,  or  Royal  Palace  of  Munich, 
is  divided  into  three  parts — the  Alte  Jtrsi- 
df-nz,  or  Old  Residence,  the  Konigsbau,  or 
New  Residence,  and  the  Fcstsaalbau,  or 
Salle  des  Fetes.  The  Rich  Chapel  and 
Treasury  can  only  be  visited  by  special 
permission  of  the  Hof-Marschallamt,  office 
of  the  Court  Chamberlain.  The  Old  Pal- 
ace was  finished  in  1616  by  Maximilian  I. ; 
and  when  the  conqueror  Gustavus  Adol- 
phus  entered  Munich,  he  above  all  ad- 
mired this  palace,  and  wished  that  he 
could  remove  it  to  Stockholm  on  wheels! 
The  front  of  the  palace  lias  two  handsome 
entrances,  decorated  with  statues  of  Wis- 
dom, Bravery,  Justice,  and  Temperance, 
with  four  bronze  lions  bearing  shields 
with  the  arms  of  Bavaria  and  Lorraine. 
In  the  centre  niche  stands  the  Virgin  Mary, 
the  patron  saint  of  Bavaria.  The  ( )ld 
Palace  incloses  four  courts,  viz.',  the  Kai- 
serhof,  Kiichenhof,  Capellenhof,  and  Brun- 
nenhof.  This  last  takes  its  name  from  a 
handsome  bronze  fountain,  which  is  orna- 
mented with  mythological  divinities — Vul- 
can. Neptune,  Juno,  and  Ceres  —  which 
represent  the  four  elements,  with  groups 
of  Tritons  and  aquatic  animals.  A  bronze 
statue  of  Otho  de  Wittelsbach,  the  founder 
of  the  present  house  of  Bavaria,  armed 
cap-a-pie,  stands  on  a  marble  pedestal  on 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH 


the  heads  of  rams.  Under  the  arch  through 
which  you  pass  in  going  from  the  Brun- 
nenhof  to  the  Capellenhof,  notice  a  large 
black  stone  fastened  by  a  chain,  and  three 
large  spikes  driven  into  the  wall  at  differ- 
ent heights.  This  stone  and  these  nails 
are  monuments  of  the  strength  and  agility 
of  the  Duke  Christopher,  son  of  Albert 
III.,  and  other  Bavarian  princes,  as  the 
description  in  verse  on  the  wall  testifies. 
Thi*  immense  stone,  weighing  364  pounds, 
the  duke  took  up  and  hurled  to  a  great 
distance.  The  upper  nail  marks  the  spot 
where  his  heel  struck  in  leaping  from  the 
ground  (12  feet)  ;  the  second  nail,  9|  feet, 
marks  the  spot  touched  by  Prince  Conrad  ; 
and  the  third  by  Prince  Philippe.  This 
occurred  in  the  year  1490.  What  degen- 
erate jumpers  we  are  nowadays  !  We  now 
arrive  at  Grottenhof,  or  Grotto  Court, 
which  was  formerly  used  as  a  summer 
garden,  and  was  ornamented  with  tropical 
plants  and  water-works.  Notice  in  the 
centre  of  the  garden  a  bronze  statue  of 
iVrsrus,  with  the  head  of  Medusa. 

We  pass  into  the  Schatzkammer,  or  Treas- 
ury. Notice  the  genealogical  tree,  and  the 
portraits  of  the  princes  and  princesses  of  the 
house  of  Wittelsbach.  This  collection  of 
royal  jewels  was  commenced  by  the  Duke 
Albert  V.,  and  enriched  by  his  successors. 
It  is,  by  the  laws  of  the  state,  unalienable. 
It  embraces  an  incredible  amount  of  valu- 
ables and  precious  stones.  Among  the 
diamonds  is  the  great  blue  brilliant  in  the 
ornament  of  the  order  of  the  golden  fleece  ; 
the  Palatine  pearl,  half  white  and  half 
black;  the  crowns  of  the  Emperor  Henry 
the  Saint  and  his  Empress  Kuniu'unda; 
that  of  the  Elector  Frederick  V.,  king  of 
Bohemia,  captured  at  the  battle  of  Prague 
in  HV20;  that  of  Maximilian  Joseph,  and 
of  his  queen  Caroline  ;  complete  toilet  sets 
of  the  Empress  Amelie  in  enamel,  and  of 
the  Empress  Josephine  in  lapis-lazuli. 
Notice  the  equestrian  statue  of  St.  George 
and  the  Dragon  ;  also,  on  the  table  in  the 
ivntn;  of  the  saloon,  a  copy  of  the  Emperor 
Trajan's  monument  at  Home.  It  was  or- 
dered by  the  Elector  Charles  Theodore, 
and  took  twenty  years  of  Valadier's  life  to 
linish  it. 

The  Rich  Chapel  (Reichc  Capelle)  was 
dedicated  to  the  Virgin  in  1607,  l.y  Maxi- 
milian I.,  and  is  most  rich  in  ornaments, 
relics,  treasures,  and  precious  stones.  The 


Annunciation,  placed  above  the  entrance, 
is  by  Peter  Candid.  The  roof  is  gold  and 
blue ;  the  walls  of  Florentine  mosaic ;  the 
floor  of  amethyst,  jasper,  and  marble.  The 
high-altar  is  of  solid  silver,  also  the  side 

j  altars.  In  ebony  caskets  are  contained 
any  quantity  of  saintly  relics,  such  as 
heads,  hands,  and  toes.  A  Descent  from 
the  Cross,  in  bas-relief,  by  Michael  Ange- 
lo ;  a  small  portable  altar,  highly  enam- 
eled, formerly  in  possession  of  Mary  Queen 
of  Scots,  which  she  used  during  her  cap- 
tivity, and  which  she  carried  to  the  scaf- 
fold. One  of  her  attendants  brought  it  to 
Pope  Leon  XI.,  who  presented  it  to  Maxi- 
milian I.,  elector  of  Bavaria. 

The  Kaiserzimmer,  or  the  apartments  of 

:  Charles  VII.,  are  well  worth  a  visit,  to 
show  in  what  luxury  the  ancient  rulers  of 
Bavaria  lived.  These  rooms  consist  of  a 
reception-saloon,  dining-saloon,  throne- 
room,  bedroom,  cabinet  of  mirrors,  and 
cabinet  of  miniatures.  They  also  contain 
some  very  fine  pictures,  and  were  selected 
by  Napoleon  for  his  private  use  when  here. 
In  the  ckambre  a.  couchcr  examine  with  care 
the  curtains  and  coverings  of  the  bed, 
worked  with  gold ;  they  cost  800,000  flor- 
ins, and  forty  persons  were  steadily  em- 
ployed fifteen  years  in  embroidering  them ! 
The  bed  stands  inside  a  small  inclosure. 
Bonaparte,  while  here,  did  not  sleep  on  the 
bed,  but  used  his  camp-bed,  which  was  set 
up  for  him  alongside  the  royal  couch,  and 
inside  the  inclosure.  There  are  several 
other  chambers  connected  with  this  suite 
which  are  not  shown.  The  throne-room 
is  now  used  by  the  young  princes  for  a 
billiard-saloon,  and  the  room  adjoining  (not 
shown)  for  a  bowling-saloon.  This  suite 
of  rooms  is  entirely  ignored  by  all  the  Eu- 
ropean guide-books,  for  what  reason  we 
can  not  understand.  We  think  them  the 
most  interesting  rooms  in  the  palace. 

The  Festsaalbuu,  or  Salle  des  Fetes, 
fronts  on  the  Hofgarten,  and  is  that  part 
of  the  palace  used  for  the  state  apartments 
and  for  all  court  festivities.  Its  front  is 
800  feet  long,  was  erected  between  th« 
years  lx:V_>  and  lx-J'2.  in  the  Palladian  style, 
after  the  designs  of  L.  von  Klenze,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  magnificent  works  of  the 
present  day.  It  is  to  be  seen  between  the 
hours  of  3  and  4  P.M.  Visitors  generally 

!  assemble  for  this  purpose  over  the  state 

!  apothecary's  apartments,  and  are  all  taken 
651 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


'  MUNICH. 


through  the  different  rooms  by  the  custo- 
dian at  the  same  time.  The  fee  is  70  pf. 
each  party. 

At  the  left  of  the  vestibule,  as  you  enter, 
are  the  Odysseus-Sale,  six  rooms  devoted  to 
representations  and  scenes  from  the  Odys- 
sey of  Homer.  They  were  painted  by  Hil- 
tensberger  in  encaustic,  after  designs  by 
Schwanthaler.  Each  of  the  six  rooms  con- 
tains four  poems,  in  eight  pictures.  One 
of  the  best  is  in  the  first  room,  •where  the 
assemblage  of  the  gods  decide  that  Ulysses 
must  leave  the  island  of  Calypso  and  re- 
turn to  his  native  land. 

The  magnificent  double  marble  stair- 
way, which  is  reserved  for  fetes  and  court 
solemnities,  conducts  you  to  the  state  apart- 
ments on  the  first  floor  (second  story). 
Travelers,  however,  are  conducted  through 
an  antechamber  into  the  Sail-room,  -which 
is  130  feet  long  by  40  wide.  The  walls  are 
decorated  by  figures  of  dancers  in  relief,  by 
Schwanthaler.  We  now  pass  into  two 
saloons  which  are  called  Saloons  of  Beauty. 
They  are  adorned  -with  37  portraits  of  the 
handsomest  females  who  have  lived,  or  still 
live  in  Munich.  They  were  taken  by  Jos. 
Stieler,  court  painter,  by  order  of  the  king. 
The  different  personages  have  occupied 
different  social  positions,  from  the  queen 
on  the  throne  to  the  daughter  of  a  bour- 
geoise  of  Munich.  This  collection  is  unique 
of  its  kind,  as  thirty-six  such  beautiful 
women  were  never  before  seen  at  one  time, 
and  they  are  all  likenesses.  Loia  Montez 
was  one  of  the  thirty -six  ;  but  her  like- 
ness has  been  remored  to  the  new  Pinaco- ' 
thek,  where,  for  an  extra  fee,  it  may  be  j 
seen.  The  royal  family  were  compelled 
to  remove  it  on  account  of  frequent  scur- 
rilous verses  written  by  Bavarian  students 
on  the  subject.  The  two  gems  of  the 
collection,  in  our  opinion,  are  No.  10,  the 
Countess  Irene,  of  Arco  -  Stepperg,  born 
Marquise  of  Pallavicini,  and  No.  32,  Guil- 
lemetti  Sulzer,  actress  of  the  court  thea- 
tre. These  beautiful  portraits  have  been 
photographed,  and  arc  bound  in  book  form, 
under  the  title  of  "Collection  of  Beau- 
ties"—  "Galerie  de  Trente-six  Portraits! 
ile  Femme,"  created  by  the  order  of  his 
Majesty,  Louis  I.,  of  Bavaria.  They  may 
be  purchased  at  the  li  Wimmer  Collec- 
tion." 

The  If  all  of  Banquets,  or  of  Battles,  com- 
052 


prise  fourteen  splendid  battle-scenes,  paint- 
ed  by  different  leading  artists,  represent- 
ing the  principal  valiant  deeds  of  the  Ba- 
varian army  between  the  years  1805  and 
1815.  After  repassing  the  Salles  des 
Beautes  and  de  Bal,  we  enter  into  three 
saloons  dedicated  to  the  three  great  epochs 
in  the  history  of  Germany  during  the  Mid- 
dle Ages.  These  rooms  separate  the  Salle 
de  Bal  from  the  Salle  du  Trone.  The 
paintings  are  from  designs  of  J.  de  Schnorr. 
The  first  is  the  Saloon  of  Charlemagne,  com- 
prising six  large  and  twelve  small  pictures, 
illustrating  scenes  in  his  life.  The  six 
principal  are,  1.  Charlemagne  as  a  boy, 
anointed  king  of  the  Franks,  in  754,  by 
Pope  Stephen  II.,  in  presence  of  his  father 
Pepin ;  2.  His  victory  over  Desiderius  at 
Pavia;  3.  His  victory  over  the  Saxons;  4. 
Propagating  Christianity  among  the  van- 
quished ;  5.  The  Council  of  Frankfort-on- 
Main ;  6.  He  is  crowned  emperor  at  Rome 
by  Pope  Leo  III.  The  twelve  smaller  pic- 
tures represent  the  events  that  would  nat- 
urally take  place  between  the  incidents 
detailed  in  the  large  pictures. 

Saloon  of  Frederick  Barbarossa. — There 
are  six  large  pictures  and  several  small 
frescoes.  The  larger  are  generally  by  J. 
de  Schnorr.  1.  Frederick  Hohenstaufen 
(Barbarossa)  elected  Emperor  of  Germany ; 

2.  His  entrance  into  Milan  as  conqueror; 

3.  He  concludes  a  treaty  of  peace  at  Venice 
with  Pope  Alexander  III. ;  4.  He  gives  a 
grand  public  festival  at  Mayence  in  1185 ; 
5.  The  battle  of  Inconium;  G.  His  death  iu 
the  river  near  Seleucia. 

Saloon  of  Rudolph  if  Hapsburg,  founder 
of  the  present  house  of  Austria.  The  four 
principal  pictures  represent,  1.  Rudolph 
gives  his  horse  to  a  priest  for  the  purpose 
of  carrying  some  water  to  administer  the 
Holy  S*acrament  to  a  dying  person;  2.  He 
learns  that  he  is  elected  Emperor  of  Ger- 
many ;  3.  He  defeats  Ottocar,  king  of  Bo- 
hemia, who  refused  to  recognize  his  elec- 
tion ;  4.  He  destroys  the  castles  of  the  rob- 
ber-knights and  establishes  public  peace. 
Notice  the  frieze  in  this  saloon:  it  was 
executed  by  Scbnorr.  This  suite  of  rooms 
has  a  suitable  termination  in  the  Salle  du 
Tr'm'\  or  throne-room,  which  is  considered 
the  very  perfection  of  architectural  beau- 
ty, and  richness  and  delicacy  of  ornament. 
The  decorations  are  gold  on  a  white  ground. 
The  gallery  is  supported  by  twenty  Co- 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH. 


rinthian  marble  columns,  between  which 

st.niil  twelve  colossal  bronze  statues,  rich- 
ly gilded.  They  were  modeled  by  Schwan- 
thaler,  c.ist  li\-  Stiglmayer,  and  represent 
different  princes  of  the  house  of  Bavaria, 
commencing  with  Otho  the  Illustrious, 
count  palatine  of  the  Rhine  in  1253,  and 
ending  with  Charles  XII.,  king  of  Sweden. 

The  Ki"w»r.ib-iii,  or  New  1'alace,  fronting 
on  Max  Joseph's  Square,  was  completed  in 
18:55  by  King  Louis,  from  designs  by 
Klen/.e  :  was  built  in  imitation  of  the  Pitti 
PalacQ  at  Florence.  Its  interior  is  most 
magnificently  linished.  Only  the  ground 
floor  is  at  present  shown  to  strangers,  the 
royal  family  occupying  the  other  floors. 
The  apartments  of  the  king  are  ornament- 
ed with  representations  of  paintings  in  en- 
caustic, the  subjects  taken  from  the  Greek 
poets,  and  those  of  the  queen  from  scenes 
of  the  German  poets.  The  suite  of  rooms 
which  are  shown  illustrate  the  Niebelun- 
genlied,  one  of  the  great  poems  of  Ger- 
many :  the  frescoes,  which  are  of  great  ce- 
lebrity, are  by  Sehnorr.  The  first,  or  ante- 
room, gives  a  view  of  all  the  characters 
represented  in  the  tragedy.  Over  the  door, 
the  supposed  author  of  the  poem,  between 
Narrative  and  Tradition,  the  two  sources 
of  his  poetry.  At.  the  right  we  see  Sieg- 
fried and  Chriemhild  :  farther  to  the  right, 
Hagen, Volker.  To  the  left  King  Gunther 
an  1  Brunhilde.  At  the  same  side,  but 
higher  up,  Abarich,  guardian  of  the  treas- 
ure of  the  Niebi'lung,  and  Kekwardr,  mes- 
senger of  Chriemhild.  On  the  third  wall  ; 
King  Etzel  and  his  faithful  Rudigcr,  Die-  j 
trich  of  Berne,  and  the.  a_red  Master  Ililde-  | 
brande.  The  arcli  over  the  window  con- 
tains the  mermaids  who  predict  to  Hagen, 
the  murderer  of  Siegfried,  his  defeat  at 
Vienna.  Farther  on,  to  the  right  of  Etzel, 
are  the  parents  of  Siegfried,  King  Sieg- 
mund  and  Sieglinde.  Then  the  Queen 
Ute,  mother  of  Gunther,  with  her  two 
younger  sons,  Gernot  and  Gieselher.  The 
;  is  the  Bridal  Chamber,  containing 
the  principal  episodes  in  the  life  of  Sieg- 
fried. ( )n  the  wall  facing  the  window,  his 
return  to  the  castle  of  King  Gunther  at 
Worms.  The  larjxe  frescoes  arc,  his  re- 
turn from  the  Saxon  war:  the  arrival  of 
Brunhilde  at  Worms ;  the  marriage  of 
Chri  -tnhild  and  Siegfried,  by  which  the 
mysteries  of  the  poem  are  unraveled. 

The  Chamber  of  Z'reac^r?/.— On  the  ceil- 
VOL.  II.— F 


ing  Chriemhild's  Dream :  her  falcon  de- 
voured by  two  eagles,  and  the  Niebelungs' 
treasure  guarded  by  gnomes.  Above  the 
doors — 1.  Chriemhild  points  out  to  Hagen 
the  spot  where  Siegfried  is  vulnerable,  for 
the  purpose  of  better  protecting  him  ;  2. 
The  departure  of  Siegfried  for  the  chase  ; 
;i.  Sigisrnunde  apprised  of  the  death  of  his 
son,  Siegfried ;  4.  Hagen  throws  into  the 
Rhine  the  treasure  of  the  Niebelnngs.  The 
four  large  pictures  represent — 1.  The  quar- 
rel of  the  two  queens,  Chriemhild  and  Brun- 
hilde, at  the  door  of  the  Munster ;  2.  The 
murder  of  Siegfried  by  Hagen  at  the  brook ; 
3.  Chriemhild,  in  going  to  the  church,  dis- 
covers the  dead  body  of  Siegfried  before 
the  door;  4.  She  recognizes  that  Hagen  is 
the  murderer  of  her  husband,  because  at 
his  entrance  the  wounds  bleed  afresh. 

Th".  Chamber  of  Rtvenye  represents  the 
extermination  of  this  heroic  race,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  bloody  revenge  of  Chriem- 
hild. The  mermaids  are  again  represent- 
ed on  the  ceiling,  which  contains  a  fulfill- 
ment of  their  prophecy.  The  principal 
pictures  are,  Chriemhild  reproaches  lla- 
gen  with  his  treason ;  combat  on  the  lad- 
der during  the  burning  of  the  palace ;  Die- 
trich overcomes  Hagen  ;  Chriemhild  kills 
Hagen,  and  is  at  lust  slain  by  Hildebraixle. 

The  fifth  and  last  chamber  is  that  of 
Lamentations,  which  represents  the  suryjv- 
ing  actors  in  the  drama  mourning  over  the 
events,  and  relating  them  to  the  Bishop  of 
Passau.  This  closes  our  description  of  one 
of  the  most  interesting  palaces  in  Europe. 

The  Arcades  of  the  Jlofgarten,  or  garden 
of  the  Court,  which  are  situated  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Resident,  arc  considered 
one  of  the  sights  of  Munich.  The  park  or 
garden  was  laid  out  by  Maximilian  I.  in 
1614,  but  is  much  changed  since  that  time  ; 
whereas  in  former  times  it.  contained  128 
fountains,  it  now  contains  but  four.  In 
the  centre  of  the  park  is  a  building  called 
the  Temple  of  the  Fountain,  surmounted 
with  a  statue  of  Bavaria  in  bronze.  The 
principal  ornaments  of  the  garden,  how- 
ever, are  the  frescoes  of  the  arcades,  and 
the  bazars,  collections  of  works  of  art,  cafes, 
shops,  dining  and  supper  rooms,  which  bor- 
der its  margin.  During  the  summer  months 
the  military  band  plays  certain  days  in  the 
week,  when,  if  the  day  be  lovely,  all  the 
world  turns  out.  The  historical  frescoes 
are  twelve  in  number,  and  represent  tha 
653 


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[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH. 


most  important  events  in  the  history  of  the 
reign  of  the  house  of  Wittelsbach.  There 
are  also  twenty-eight  landscape  frescoes, 
painted  by  Rottman,  which  represent  scenes 
in  Italy  and  the  island  of  Sicily,  with  po- 
etical inscriptions  explanatory  of  the  sub- 
jects, written  by  his  majesty  King  Louis. 
Notice  here  the  united  collection  on  the 
north  side  of  the  garden :  it  consists  of 
Chinese,  Egyptian,  Roman,  and  Indian  an- 
tiquities, which  well  deserve  a  visit. 

The  Pinncothek,  or  Picture-gallery  (open 
even' day  in  the  week  except  Saturday  from 
9  to  2),  was  erected  between  the  years  1826 
and  1836,  by  L.  de  Klenze.  It  is  an  immense 
building,  520  feet  long  and  92  wide,  in  the 
style  of  a  Roman  palace,  and  from  every  point 
of  view  has  a  truly  appropriate  and  magnifi- 
cent appearance.  The  principal  fa9ade  is 
ornamented  with  24  statues  of  the  most  cele- 
brated painters,  modeled  by  Schwanthaler. 

The  gallery  of  paintings  occupies  thefirst 
floor  after  ascending  from  the  vestibule, 
which  is  supported  by  four  Ionic  columns. 
The  gallery  founded  by  Maximilian  I., 
augmented  by  King  Maximilian  Joseph, 
and  enriched  with  important  acquisitions 
by  King  Louis  (1827),  is  actually  one  of 
the  finest  galleries  of  Europe.  In  nine 
halls  and  twenty-three  cabinets  are  found 
nearly  fourteen  hundred  paintings. 

Hall  of  the  Founders. — The  walls  are 
hung  with  the  portraits  of  the  sovereigns 
who  have  contributed  most  largely  to  the 
formation  of  the  gallery,  viz.,  the  elect- 
ors Maximilian  I.,  Max.  Emanuel,  Johann 
Wilhelm,  founder  of  the  Dusseldorf  Gal- 
lery :  Karl  Theodore,  of  the  Palatinate  ; 
and  the  kings  Maximilian,  Joseph  I.,  and 
Ludwig  I. 

First  Hall. — This  contains  the  paintings 
of  the  ancient  upper  German  school,  from 
the  time  of  its  foundation  to  the  middle  of 
the  16th  century.  The  most  important 
are  the  following :  Albert  Di'irer — The  like- 
ness of  an  armed  Cavalier  (1),  the  Nativity 
of  Christ  (73),  Burial  of  Christ  (66) ;  De- 
scent from  the  Cross  (34),  by  Michael 
Wohlgemuth ;  the  Adulteress  before  Christ 
(56),  portrait  of  the  Count  Fugger  (62),  St. 
Peter  and  St.  John  (71),  St.  Paul  and  St. 
Mark  (76).  Jesus  on  the  Mount  of  Olives 
(5),  by  John  Holbein  the  elder. 

Second  Hall. — The  paintings  contained 
in  this  apartment  are  mostly  from  the  old, 
the  rest  from  the  later  German  school.  A 
654 


portrait  of  Man  (77),  by  Holbein  the  youn- 
ger ;  the  Misers  (95)  ;  Venus  and  Cupid 
(97)  ;  Saint  Dominico  receiving  the  rosary 
from  the  Holy  Virgin  (100),  by  Loth ;  the 
Month  of  May  (116),  by  Sandrart ;  the 
Month  of  June  (117)  ;  the  Archangel  Ga- 
briel with  a  boy  (118);  the  Holy  Virgin 
with  the  infant  Jesus  is  seated  on  a  throne, 
St.  Rosalie  on  one  side,  and  St.  Dominico 
on  the  other  (119)  ;  portrait  of  the  celebra- 
ted mathematician,  John  Neudorfer,  who, 
sitting  on  a  table,  is  instructing  his  son 
(120);  Lazarus  in  the  bosom  of  Abraham, 
and  the  rich  man  in  the  flames  of  Hell 
(149) ;  a  Money-changer  (80),  by  Quinten 
Matsys. 

Third  Hall. — This  contains  pictures  of 
the  Netherland  school  to  the  end  of  the 
17th  century:  Resurrection  of  Lazarus 
(187);  portrait  of  the  organist,  Henry  Li- 
berti,  of  Antwerp  (193) ;  Stag  Hunt  (208) ; 
portrait  of  the  Elector  John  Guillaume  on 
horseback;  Abraham  (228);  Christ  taking 
leave  of  the  Virgin  Mary  (84). 

Four/h  Hall. — This  contains  ninety-five 
paintings,  all  by  Rubens.  The  gems  are, 
No.  249,  Reconciliation  of  the  Sa bines  with 
the  Romans ;  250,  portrait  of  Don  Ferdi- 
nand, infanta  of  Spain,  and  brother  of  King 
Philip  IV. ;  256,  portrait  of  the  artist,  with 
that  of  his  first  wife,  Elizabeth  Brants ; 
269,  the  Massacre  of  the  Holy  Innocents; 
258,  the  celebrated  large  picture  of  the  Last 
Judgment,  20  by  14  feet ;  260,  portrait  of 
Helen  Forman,  Rubens's  second  wife ;  278, 
Susanna  at  the  Bath;  274,  a  Wild-boar 
Chase:  the  animals  are  painted  by  Snv- 
ders;  287,  Rubens  in  his  garden  at  Ant- 
werp, with  his  wife  and  son ;  289,  the 
Nymphs  of  Diana  asleep  in  the  forest. 

Fifth  Hall. — This  saloon  contains  the 
gems  of  the  Dutch  school,  and  many  por- 
traits of  distinguished  beauty  by  Rem- 
brandt, viz.,  329,  335,  343,  and  349.  No. 
344,  Cimon  in  Prison,  his  daughter  nour- 
ishing him.  by  Honthorst ;  310,  an  Angel 
delivering  St.  Peter  from  Prison,  by  the 
same  artist;  317,  a  Wild-boar  Hunt,  by 
Snydcrs ;  331,  portrait  of  Van  Dyck's  wife, 
by  himself;  342,  the  Prodigal  Son  at  table 
with  Courtesans. 

Sixth  Hall. — This  saloon  contains  some 
gems  by  Murillo,  Nos.  348,  349,  357,  358. 
These  are  unsurpassed  delineations  of  beg- 
gar children.  Notice  the  old  woman  ex- 
amining the  boy's  head,  not  a  very  tempt- 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH. 


ing  occupation,  No.  376.  No.  392  is  tho 
portrait  of  Mine,  do  la  Vallicre  as  St.  Mad- 
eleine. 39G,  Sunset  at  Home.  I  y  ll<>raet- 
Vernet.  407,  Sunrise,  by  Claude  Lorraine. 
There  arc  a  large  number  of  gems  by  this 
artist  in  this  saloon,  as  well  as  by  Joseph 
Veniet  and  Poussin.  420,  St.  John  in  the 
island  of  Patmos. 

Saloons  7,  8,  and  9  contain  the  gems  of 
the  Italian  school.  In  No.  7  we  would 
particularly  notice  469,  the  Virgin  Jl.ii-y, 
with  the  Saviour  and  two  saints,  by  Oor- 
•:  421.  the  Crowning  of  Christ,  by 
Giu-rcino;  -171.  the  Penitent  Magdalen,  by 
Carlo  Dolce ;  -177,  the  Massacre  of  the  In- 
nocents, by  Carraccio. 

In  the  eighth  saloon  there  are  several 
gems  by  Paul  Veronese  :  485,  his  Holy 
Family,  and  487,  his  Death  of  Cleopatra; 
513,  the  Woman  taken  in  Adultery,  by  the 
same;  522,  Susanna  and  the  Elders,  by 
Domenichino,  a  splendid  composition  ;  f>27, 
tho  Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  by  Guido, 
proved  beyond  a  doubt :  some  critics,  to  es- 
tablish a  reputation  by  questioning  every 
picture's  identity,  pretend  to  doubt  it ;  532, 
Christ  crowned  with  Thorns,  by  Caravag- 
gio. 

The  ninth  saloon  contains  some  glorious 
pictures,  including  three  by  Raphael,  the 
largest.  534.  a  Holy  Family  :  584,  the  same 
subject,  similar  to  the  Madonna  della  Seg- 
giola  at  Florence ;  and  581,  his  Portrait. 
546,  Leonardo  da  Vinci ;  538,  the  Dead 
Christ  on  the  knees  of  the  Virgin ;  575 
represent.*  the  Holy  Virgin  worshiping  the 
child  .1 

Tlf  C(  I'Mtts. — The  first  six  of  these  cab- 
inets embrace  the  schools  of  the  Lower 
Rhine.  The  lirst  and  second  contain  fine 
work*  by  Wilhelm  von  Cologne  and  Israel 
van  Mekenen.  The  third,  fourth,  and  fifth 
cabinets  arc  the  works  of  Johann  von  Eyck, 
Johann  Hernling,  and  Schoreel.  In  the 
sixth  an:  found  several  small  paintings  by 
Hemskerk,  as  96,  a  Crucifixion,  and  105, 
John  in  the  Wilderness.  The  seventh  cab- 
inet contains  the  paintings  from  the  Upper 
German  school :  120,  portrait  of  Oswald 
KM.,  by  Durer;  142,  the  Holy  Virgin; 
128,  portrait  of  Durer's  Father  at  seventy 
years  of  age  ;  150,  portrait  of  the  Princess 
Marie  Jacqueline  of  Baden,  wife  of  Duke 
William  IV.  In  the  eighth  cabinet  are 
some  handsome  paintings  of  the  Nether- 
land  school :  !•'>'.},  Mater  Dolorosa,  by  Du- 


rer;  161,  the  Dying  Virgin,  by  Durer; 
169,  Victory  of  Alexander  the  Great  over 
Darius  in  the  battle  of  Arbela,  by  Altdorfer; 
17o  and  187  are  handsome  pictures  of  an 
old  man  and  an  old  woman,  by  Denner. 
The  ninth,  tenth,  and  eleventh  cabinets 
contain,  for  the  most  part,  the  works  of 
Teniers,  Veen,  Rembrandt,  and  Brouwer. 
In  the  twelfth  cabinet  are  found  thirty-nine 
paintings  by  Rubens,  mostly  taken  from 
the  life  of  Mary  de'  Medicis.  In  the  thir- 
teenth cabinet  are  found  several  paintings 
by  Anton  van  Dyck.  367,  a  Gothic  Church, 
by  Vliet ;  374  and  375,  Landscapes,  by  Ka- 
bel  and  Wynants ;  £59,  a  Servant-maid, 
by  Gerard  Dow.  The  fourteenth  and  fif- 
teenth cabinets  contain  some  very  hand- 
some paintings  of  the  Netherland  school. 
The  sixteenth  cabinet  contains  only  the 
works  of  Adrian  van  der  WerflF.  Most  of 
them  are  taken  from  the  life  and  sufferings 
of  Christ,  besides  some  portraits  of  the 
Elector  of  the  Palatinate,  Johann  Wilhelm, 
and  the  electress.  477,  Abraham  and  Ha- 
gar.  The  seveententh  cabinet — 506  and  512 
represent  two  landscapes,  by  Polemburg; 
528,  a  Knife-grinder,  by  Weenix. 

The  eighteenth  cabinet  contains  some 
very  fine  mosaics  and  fresco  paintings.  In 
the  nineteenth  cabinet  are  found  onlv  a 
few  paintings,  from  the  Italian  and  Byzan- 
tine schools,  by  Masaccio,  Giotto,  Pisano, 
and  Cimabue.  The  twentieth,  twenty- 
first,  and  twenty-second  contain  some  very 
fine  works  of  the  Italian  school ;  but  those 
of  the  twenty-third  are  of  an  inferior  kind. 

The  Cabinet  of  Copper-plate. — This  cabi- 
net, which  was  founded  by  Karl  Theodore, 
and  enlarged  by  Maximilian  Joseph,  occu- 
pies the  first  floor  of  the  Pinacothek.  The 
whole  collection,  which  embraces  some  of 
the  finest  and  rarest  works  of  the  best  mas- 
ters, from  the  earliest  date  to  the  present 
day.  is  arranged  in  the  order  of  the  school*, 
which  are  explained  by  a  catalogue  con- 
tained in  the  establishment.  It  is  open 
every  day  in  the  week  except  Saturday. 

The  Cabinet  of  Desiyns. — This  cabinet 
contains  about  nine  thousand  of  the  origi- 
nal designs  of  Raphael,  Correggio,  Michael 
Angelo,  Fra  Bartolomeo,  Giulio  Romano, 
M::iite_'na.  Holbein,  Albert  l>iirer,  Rem- 
brandt, and  others.  Lately,  this  collection 
has  lieeii  enriched  by  some  works  of  Mau- 
rice Ktigeixlas,  drawn  by  him  during  his 
travels  through  South  America. 
G55 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH. 


Cabinet  of  Grecian  and  Etruscan  Vases. — 
This  rich  collection,  formed  by  King  Louis, 
occupies  live  saloons.  The  modern  paint- 
ings were  copied  from  ancient  drawings 
found  in  the  Etruscan  tombs :  they  repre- 
sent funeral  rites,  marriages,  and  festivals. 
Most  of  the  vases  of  terra-cotta  were  found 
in  Sicily  and  Greece ;  they  date  from  the  6th 
century  B.C.,  and  are  composed  of  funeral 
vases,  destined  only  for  solemn  ceremonies 
and  for  graves ;  gymnic  vases,  given  as 
prizes  in  public  games ;  and  nuptial  vases. 

The  New  Pinacothek,  containing  the  pict- 
ures of  modern  painters,  is  open  Tuesday, 
Thursday,  Saturday,  and  Sunday,  from  8  to 
12,  and  2  to  4.  Catalogue,  36  kr.  It  is  two 
stories  high,  and  contains  52  rooms.  The 
exterior  walls  are  decorated  with  colossal 
frescoes  by  Nilson,  from  designs  by  Kaul- 
bach.  As  you  enter  the  building,  notice  the 
colossal  model  of  Bavaria  standing  on  the 
triumphal  car  drawn  by  four  lions.  This 
work,  in  bronze,  decorates  the  Gate  of  Vic- 
tory in  Ludwigsstrasse.  On  the  ground 
floor  is  a  fine  collection  of  paintings  on  por- 
celain, comprising  many  of  the  gems  of  the 
Old  Pinacothek.  Here  is  seen  the  portrait 
of  Lola  Montez,  removed  from  the  Gallery 
of  Beauties.  In  the  first  saloon  notice  the 
large  portrait  of  Ludwig  I.,  by  Kaulbach. 
In  the  centre  of  the  room  is  a  large  mala- 
chite vase,  presented  by  the  Emperor  Nich- 
olas of  Russia ;  also  a  table  of  porphyry, 
containing  vases  of  the  same  marble,  from 
Charles  XIV.  of  Sweden.  In  Room  No.  2  is 
Sc'aorn's  great  picture  of  the  "  Deluge,"  left 
unfinished.  This  and  Kaulbach's  "  De- 
struction of  Jerusalem"  are  considered  the 
gems  of  the  gallery.  No.  4  contains  Piloty's 
painting  of  the  astronomer  Seni  near  the 
dead  body  of  Wallenstein,  and  Achenbach's 
Tempest  at  Sea.  No.  6  contains  Rottman's 
23  Grecian  landscapes,  painted  on  the  walls 
in  encaustic.  In  addition  to  these  six  large 
saloons,  there  are  six  small,  and  fourteen 
cabinets.  No.  3  of  the  small  saloons  is  well 
worth  attention  ;  the  walls  are  painted  by 
Kaulbach,  and  from  these  paintings  Nilson 
took  the  designs  for  the  large  frescoes  which 
adorn  the  outside  of  the  building.  The  sub- 
jects are — No.  32,  King  Ludwig  surrounded 
bv  Artists  and  Savans ;  33,  The  Artists  of 
Modern  Rome ;  Artists  receiving  the  Orders 
of  the  King ;  the  Combat  against  Bad  Taste 
(the  artists  executing  the  ideas  of  the  King) ; 
a  Fete  of  the  Arts,  in  which  they  crown  the 
656 


statue  of  the  king;  the  allegorical  figures  of 
Architecture,  Sculpture,  and  Bronze  Cast- 
ing; Painting  in  Fresco,  Painting  on  Glass, 
and  Painting  on  Porcelain ;  the  Manufact- 
ure of  Glass- Painting;  the  Ro3ral  Foundry 
in  full  operation ;  Presentation  of  the  Art- 
ists' Album  to  the  King.  Between  the  win- 
dows, on  the  north  side,  are  colossal  por- 
traits of  fourteen  of  the  greatest  modern  art- 
ists: viz.,  Schraudolph,  Kaulbach,  Schorn, 
Schwanthaler,  Zubland,  Rottman,  Hess, 
Schnorr,  Gaertner,  P.  Hess,  Ohlmiiller, 
Cornelius,  Klenz,  and  Thorwaldsen.  On 
the  ground  floor  is  the  Antfquariiim,  con- 
taining a  fine  collection  of  Egyptian,  Ro- 
man, Greek,  and  German  antiquities,  and 
statues  in  bronze,  pottery,  and  marble. 

Near  the  Pinacothek  is  the  new  North- 
ern Cemetery. 

Glyptothek,  or  Sculpture-gallery,  opened 
in  1830  by  King  Ludwig.  Open  Mondays, 
Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays,  from  8  to  12, 
and  from  2  to  4.  This  building  is  in  the 
Ionic  order,  and  is  one  of  the  most  chaste 
and  beautiful  buildings  in  Munich.  It  is 
surrounded  by  a  handsomely  laid-out  gar- 
den. The  front  is  ornamented  with  sculp- 
ture, corresponding  with  the  Greek  style, 
that  is,  niches  instead  of  windows,  in  which 
stand,  on  the  front,  the  statues  of  Vulcan, 
Phidias,  Prometheus,  Pericles,  Hadrian, 
and  Dajdalus.  In  the  niches  on  the  eaat 
side  were  placed,  in  1857,  the  statue  of  Ca- 
nova,  with  the  bust  of  Paris,  by  Thorwald- 
sen ;  Rauch,  with  a  statuette  of  the  King 
Maximilian  Joseph,  by  Tcnerani;  and  in 
the  year  1859,  Schwanthaler,  with  the  stat- 
uette of  Bavaria ;  and  of  Gibson,  by  Brug- 
ger.  The  paintings  and  decorations  of  the 
interior  are  most  exquisite.  The  sculp- 
tures are  arranged  in  chronological  order, 
commencing  with  Egypt,  the  cradle  of 
sculpture,  and  the  basis  of  the  Grecian  art, 
which  was  brought  to  such  a  high  state  of 
perfection  in  Italy  about  the  time  of  Prax- 
iteles. The  collection  occupies  12  rooms ; 
each  room  is  devoted  to  a  particular  epoch 
in  the  art,  ornamented  in  keeping  with  its^ 
contents.  The  floors  are  of  marble,  the 
ceilings  richly  frescoed,  and  the  walls  paint- 
ed in  imitation  of  marble.  Room  No.  1  con 
tains  Egyptian  antiquities;  2,  Greek  and 
Etruscan  ;  ;5,  the  valuable  marbles  from 
the  temple  of  Jupiter  Panhellenius,  yEgina, 
considered  the  most  valuable  sculptures 
of  ancient  art  that  have  reached  us  ;  4,  the 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH. 


Hall  of  Apollo,  containing  works  of  the 
school  of  Phidias :  this  room  takes  its  name 
from  the  principal  figure  which  occupies  a 
place  in  it,  -the  Apollo  Cetharoeclus,"  or 
Apollo  of  the  Harp,  formerly  named  the 
Barberini  Muee,  and  is  an  exquisite  piece 
of  sculpture;  No.  5,  the  Hall  of  Bacchus, 
contains  the  Barberini  Faun,  or  "Sleeping 
Satvr:"  it  is  considered  from  the  chisel  of 
either  Scopas  or  Praxiteles,  and  was  found 
in  the  ditch  of  the  castle  of  St.  Angelo,  at 
Koine,  supposed  to  have  been  hurled  from 
the  top  of  the  wall  by  the  Greeks  when  de- 
fending themselves  against  the  Goths  ;  the 
6th,  or  Hall  of  the  Sons  of  Niobe :  the  most 
attractive  figure  in  the  room  is  that  of  the 
kneeling  Niobe,  which,  although  armless 
and  headless,  speaks  with  a  most  remark- 
able truthfulness  to  life. 

Nos.  7  and  8  do  not  contain  any  sculp- 
ture, Imt  they  are  ornamented  with  fres- 
coes by  Cornelius  and  his  pupils,  illustra- 
ting the  destruction  of  Troy  by  Homer. 
No.  7,  the  Hall  of  the  Gods,  which  repre- 
sents the  three  kingdoms  of  the  Ancient 
Mythology,  v\/..,  Jupiter,  Pluto,  and  Nep- 
tune. The  Trojan  Hall  (No.  8)  is  separa- 
ted from  the  last  by  a  small  vestibule, 
•which  contains  some  glorious  frescoes :  no- 
tice Prometheus,  having  formed  man,  Mi- 
nerva gives  him  life.  The  principal  frescoes 
represent  the  events  which  gave  rise  to  the 
Trojan  war.  No.  9,  the  Hall  of  the  Heroes : 
notice  here  the  statue  of  Alexander  the 
Great,  No.  157.  Hall  of  the  Romans  (No. 
10)  is  the  largest  and  most  splendid  in  the 
Glyptothek,  and  is  tilled  with  gems  of  Ro- 
man art,  sarcophagi,  altars,  busts,  and  re- 
liefs. No.  11,  Hall  of  Colored  Sculpture  : 
notice  the  bronze  statue  of  Proserpine,  the 
black  and  white  marble  statue  of  Ceres. 
No.  12.  the  Modern  Hall,  containing  works 
of  the  present  da}'.  In  the  centre  of  this 
room  stands  Thorwaldsen's  statue  of  Ado- 
nis ;  Venus  and  Paris,  by  Canova;  Louis 
I.,  king  of  Bavaria,  !>y  Thorwaldsen  ;  and 
numerous  other  gems  by  modern  arti>t>. 

A  catalogue  is  for  sale,  and  will  be  found 
very  serviceable. 

Propylaen. — This  chaste,  substantial,  and 
elegant  structure  is  just  finished  (1863). 
It  occupies  the  northwest  side  of  the  square 
on  which  stands  the  Glyptothek  and  A  >is- 
steilunfftgebuude,  or  Palace  of  Fine  Arts. 
It  is  built  after  the  Doric  order  of  architec- 
ture, that  the  three  buildings  in  the  square 


may  represent  severally  the  three  Grecian 
orders — Corinthian,  Doric,  and  Ionic.  The 
Propylaen  is  a  triple  archway,  which  leads 
to  the  Nymphenburg,  a  royal  summer  res- 
idence. The  models  of  the  relief  in  the 
frieze  were  executed  by  Schwanthaler  be- 
fore his  death ;  the  marble  is  by  his  cous- 
in, X.  Schwanthaler.  This  splendid  com- 
position is  considered  the  late  artist's  mas- 
terpiece. The  side  toward  the  country 
represents,  first,  the  centre  figure,  Victori- 
ous Helas ;  on  the  ri_rht  and  left  appear 
figures  of  Victorious,  with  trophies  of  both 
land  and  sea:  farther  to  the  right,  groups 
of  combatants  and  vanquished  warriors; 
a  priest ;  a  wife  rescuing  her  child  from  a 
barbarian ;  a  colossal  goddess.  On  the 
left,  a  young  hero  avenging  the  loss  of  his 
wife ;  a  dying  chieftain ;  a  youth  rowing 
a  boat;  a  (ire-god  setting  ships  on  fire,  etc. 
On  the  side  toward  the  city  we  see,  in  the 
centre,  Otho,  late  king  of  Greece  (who  is  a 
Bavarian  prince),  surrounded  by  figures 
of  warriors,  of  Peace,  Religion,  Science, 
Poetry,  tradesmen,  and  agriculturists.  The 
original  models  may  be  seen  at  the  atelier 
of  X.  Schwanthaler.  There  are  several  pri- 
vate collections  of  pictures  in  Mur.ich  well 
deserving  notice,  but  the  hours  -\vhen  they 
may  be  seen  being  uncertain,  travelers 
are  referred  to  the  gallery  of  Wimmer  & 
Co.  for  particulars.  In  the  Old  Picture- 
gallery  is  deposited  the  united  collection  of 
antiquities ;  and  the  University,  formerly 
the  Jesuits'  College,  contains  all  the  spec- 
imens of  coins  and  medals,  and  Museum  of 
Natural  History.  The  fossil  collection, 
situated  on  the  ground  floor,  is  very  fine. 

Wimmer  <$•  Co.'s  Collection  of  Fine  Arts, 
j  No.  3  Briennerstrasse  is  on  a  more  extensive 
scale  than  any  other,  not  only  in  Munich, 
but  in  Germany.  The  gallery  of  art  con- 
sists of  different  branches :  eight  rooms, 
with  modern  paintings  by  the  best  Mu- 
nich artists.  A  large  and  handsome  gal- 
lery especially  for  paintings  in  porcelain 
[contain  over  two  hundred  of  the  finest 
! copies  from  celebrated  paintings  in  the 
'European  galleries. 

I     As  Munich  is  the  city  most  celebrated 
for  its  paintings  on  porcelain,  so  is  the  Wim- 
mer collection  one  of  the  most  celebra- 
ted, not  only  for  the  number  of  its  paint- 
ings, but  for  their  beauty  and  uncommon 
,  size  of  plates.     These  paintings  received 
!  the  medal  at  the  last  London  International 
657 


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[THE  EMPIRE   OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH. 


Exhibition.     Other  saloons  are  devoted  to 


the  colossal  works  of  Hans  Makart,  Piloty, 


:i  large  collection  of  first-rate  copies  in  oil  etc.,  which  are  exhibited  during  the  summer 
of  the  best  pictures  in  the  Munich  gal-  months  at  their  rooms  in  the  Royal  Odeon, 


leries.  This  galL-ry  extends  over  6000 
square  feet. 

The  gallery  of  Whinner  and  Co.  has 
befn  in  existence  since  1825,  and  is  one  of 
the  best  known  of  its  kind  in  the  world. 
The  members  of  this  firm  have  acquired 
such  a  reputation  for  probity  that  orders 
are  sent  to  them  from  all  parts,  leaving 
subject  and  price  to  their  taste  and  judg- 
ment. 

This  exhibition,  representing  all  branch- 
es of  fine  arts,  with  the  exception  of  sculp- 
ture, is  decidedly  deserving  of  a  visit  from 
every  traveler  in  Europe ;  and  to  it  the 
fine  galleries  of  our  Stewarts,  Lennoxes, 
Aspinwalls,  Belmonts,  and  other  leading 
citizens  and  patrons  of  the  fine  arts,  are  in- 
debted for  many  of  their  gems. 

It  may  not  be  generally  known  that 
Munich  is  at  the  head  of  all  cities  in  the 
world  for  photography.  Such,  neverthe- 
less, is  the  fact.  All  branches  of  the  arts, 
however,  are  carried  to  a  greater  state  of 
perfection  here  than  elsewhere ;  and  the 
photographs  of  Munich  are  as  far  in  ad- 
vance of  the  photographs  of  Paris  as  those 
of  New  York  are  to  those  of  London. 


The  principal  jeweler  of  Munich,  and  one 
of  the  first  in  Germany,  is  Merk,  No.  13 
Odeonsplatz,  where  jewelry  is  manufact- 
ured in  every  variety  and  sold  at  whole- 
sale prices.  Mr.  Merk  has  received  prizes 
and  decorations  at  several  exhibitions  for 
excellence  of  workmanship  in  this  industry. 

The  Fine  Art  Gallery  of  E.  A.  Fleisch- 
mann,  No.  1  Maximilianstrasse,  close  to  the 
Hotel  Four  Seasons,  and  founded  in  1806, 
contains  works  of  some  of  the  most  promi- 
nent German  artists,  Knauss,  Defregger, 


Wittelbacherer  Platz.  The  royal  family, 
the  Berlin  National,  and  the  Dresden  gal- 
leries are  among  their  customers,  besides 
numerous  Continental  and  American  ama- 
teurs. The  firm  having  branches  in  Lon- 
don, at  17  Charla  St.,  Haymarket,  and  in 
New  York,  at  M.  Max  Herrmann's,  80£ 
Pearl  St.,  pictures  can  be  forwarded  to  either 
place,  and  packing,  forwarding,  and  custom- 
house clearances  attended  to  by  the  firm, 
all  trouble  to  the  customer  being  avoided. 

The  Museum  of  Schwanthaler,  Bava- 
ria's greatest  sculptor,  should  be  visited. 
It  is  situated  in  the  street  that  bears  his 
name,  No.  90. 

Travelers  should  by  no  means  fail  to 
pay  a  visit  to  the  superb  Exhibition  of  fine 
Arts,  opposite  the  Glyptothek.  It  is  or- 
ganized liy  all  the  principal  artists  of  Mu- 
nich, contains  several  different  branches  of 
fine  arts,  and  will  be  found  not  only  a  sight 
worth  seeing,  but  even  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting sights  of  the  city.  It  is  open  ev- 
ery day  from  9  A.M.  till  5  P.M.,  from  May 
to  October.  The  paintings  exhibited  are  all 
selected  by  a  jury  chosen  from  the  Munich 
Association  of  Fine  Arts,  and  are  all  for  sale. 

Hofbrciuhaus,  or  Royal  Brewery,  near 
the  Four  Seasons  Hotel,  Platzl,  will  well 
repay  a  visit,  whether  you  drink  beer  or 
not.  Its  beer  is  very  celebrated. 

Stained  glass  in  the  highest  perfection 
of  the  art  has  always  had  its  home  in  Mu- 
nich, cathedrals,  churches,  chapels,  and  pri- 
vate residences  in  every  quarter  of  the  globe 
receiving  their  beautiful  windows  from  the 
Royal  Glass-painting  Manufactory  (Kdnirj- 
liche  Hnfglasmalerei)  of  this  city,  situated  in 
the  Briennerstrasse,  No.  23.  Chefs-faeuvrt, 
finished  and  in  course  of  preparation,  illus- 
trative of  every  theme  and  subject,  are  al- 
ways to  be  seen.  Herr  Zettler,  the  director, 
is  the  chief  of  a  group  of  some  thirty  artists 
who  devote  their  time  and  talent  to  the 
work,  which  will  well  repay  a  visit. 

The  Public  Library  of  Munich,  next  to 
that  of  Paris,  is  the  largest  in  the  world. 
The  building  is  of  irurmnse  extent,  and 
three  stories  in  height.  It  is  said  to  contain 
800,000  volumes,  23,000  MSS.,  a  collection 


F.  A.  Kaulbach,  Gabriel  Max,  etc.,  as  well    of  engravings  which  number  300,000,  and 
as  a  variety  of  the  productions  of  younger  j  10,000  Greek  and  Roman  coins.     Among 
artists.     The  firm  is  constantly  acquiring  i  the  many  valuable  relics  in  this  library  ia 
658 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH. 


the  Bible  of  Luther,  which  contains  his 
own  and  Melanchthon'fl  portraits.  The  su- 
perb Reading  Hull  is  adorned  with  the 
busts  of  the  dukes  of  Bavaria. 

The.  manuscripts,  which  are  of  artist- 
like,  historic,  or  intrinsic  value,  are  pre- 
served with  great  care  in  the  Hall  of 
"  C'imelien  ;"  the  most  ini|K>rtant  of  which 
are  the  following:  the  Tables  of  Wax, 
after  the  manner  of  the  Roman  tables  of 
tha  loth  century;  Codex  Purpureus;  the 
Gospels,  written  in  gold  and  silver  on  pur- 
ple vellum  of  the  9th  century  ;  the  Codex 
Aluricianus,  of  the  Cth  century  ;  Codex 
traditionum  Ecclesiaj  Kavenrii.tis,  on  pa- 
pyrus of  the  10th  century ;  a  most  su- 
perb Bible  and  Missals,  given  to  the  ca- 
thedral of  Bamberg  by  the  Emperor  St.  j 
Henry:  Orl.  Lasso's  Seven  Penitential 
I'salms  ;  Sehah-Nameh,  an  heroic  Persian 
poem  by  Firdusi,  ornamented  with  minia- 
tures; a  Prayer-book,  printed  in  1515,  i 
with  drawings  on  the  margin  by  Diirer 
and  Cranach;  the  Tournament  of  Duke 
William  IV. 

The  National  .!/«,*•=•:.•.!  is  open  daily,  ex- 
cept Monday,  from  10  to  2.  Sunday  and  i 
Thursday  gratis  ;  other  days.  :>0  kr.  This 
magnificent  structure  is  520  feet  in  length, 
and  was  founded  by  Maximilian  II.  in 
1855,  and  finished  in  1*68.  It  was  de-  j 
signed  by  Hi •••/.••/.  and  executed  under  the 
instructions  of  Kuppelmayer.  The  attic 
of  the  middle  structure  is  surmounted  by 
a  Bavarian  lion.  It  contains  one  of  the 
richest  collections  of  antiquity,  objects  of 
art,  and  curiosities  in  the  world ;  and  the 
Museum  owes  its  ^roat  success  to  the  abil- 
ity of  M.  d'Aretin  and  M.  de  Hefner-Alten- 
eck,  who  have  collected  and  admirably 
arranged  all  the  antiquities  and  objects 
of  curiosity  that  were  formerly  scattered 
about  in  the  royal  palaces,  and  other  places 
in  Bavaria. 

The  gro'ind  foor  on  the  right  wing  con- 
tains Roman.  Germanic,  and  Celtic  antiq- 
uities ;  the  left  wing  contains  objects  of 
Gothic  art  from  the  13th  to  the  loth  cen- 
tury. 

The  first  jloor,  right  wing,  contains  the 
collection  of  armor,  weapons,  costumes,  and 
musical  instruments  ;  the  left,  the  <  'erumic 
collection.  There  are  29  rooms  on  this 
floor,  ornamented  with  a  series  of  143  lar^e 
frescoes  bv  Munich  artists,  taken  from  sub- 
jects in  Bavarian  history. 


The  second  Jloor  ia  filled  with  works  of 
Renaissance  and  modern  times,  with  splen- 
did specimens  of  tapestry  of  different  pe- 
riods, down  to  the  gobelin  of  Napoleon  I. 

It  would  be  impossible  to  give  a  de- 
scription of  the  thousand  articles  of  in- 
terest in  this  vast  collection ;  the  pur- 
chase of  a  catalogue  is  therefore  recom- 
mended. 

Opposite  the  museum  is  the  new  and 
handsome  Government  Palace,  built  of  terra 
cotta.  It  contains  seven  large  halls  and 
two  hundred  bureaus. 

The  Picture-Gallery  of  Bun  n  von  Schack, 
19  Brunnenstrasse,  is  open  daily  from  2  to  5. 
The  M<ixiiniicin:  um  Museum,  just  over  the 
Isur,  at  the  end  of  Maximilianstrasse,  is  open 
Wed.  and  Sat.  from  10  to  12  ;  fee  otherwise. 

The  Bavarian  Bronze-Foundery,  or  Erz- 
giesserei,  is  open  daily  from  1  to  6 ;  Sun- 
day, 12  to  2;  fee,  12  kr.  This  is  an  es- 
tablishment that  every  American  nm-t 
take  an  interest  in  visiting,  as  from  it  have 
been  sent  nearly  all  the  great  statues  one 
sees  in  America.  The  equestrian  statue 
of  Washington,  at  Richmond,  Va.,  the  stat- 
ues of  Patrick  Henry,  Marshall,  Jeffer- 
son ;  Rogers's  bronze  doors  for  the  Capitol 
at  Washington,  with  nearly  all  of  that  fa- 
mous artist's  great  works,  have  been  cast 
here,  not  speaking  of  the  mammoth  statue 
of  "  Bavaria."  Nearly  every  city  of  Ger- 
many has  some  specimen  of  its  work. 

The  Roynl  Academy  >f  Arts  and  Sciences 
in  Xeuhausergap.se  is  open  daily,  from  10 
to  12.  It  is  divided  into  three  divisions  : 
Architecture,  Sculpture,  and  Painting.  It 
was  founded  in  1808.  The  ground  floor 
contains  plaster  casts  of  antique  works. 

The  studio  of  Carl  von  Piloty  is  also 
here ;  he  is  at  present  director  of  the  Acad- 
emy. The  Academy  of  Science  contains 
collections  of  fossils,  of  physical  and  opti- 
cal instruments,  a  cabinet  of  minerals,  a 
geognostic  cabinet,  and  cabinet  of  coins 
and  medals. 

A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  studio  of 
Mr.  David  Neal,  6  Maximilianplatz  :  as  an 
historical  painter  he  is  unsurpassed  by  any 
of  his  countrymen  abroad  ;  indeed  few  for- 
e;^n  artists  can  compete  with  him.  His 
last  work  (Maria  Stuart),  painted  for  Mr. 
Mills  of  California.  i~  a  great  success. 

The  Xeue  Ratlthaus,  recently  construct- 
ed, deserves  a  visit.      It  is  situated  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Marienplatz.     The  Fest 
659 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH. 


saal  is  adorned  with  a  fine  fresco  by  Piloty, 
and  9  fine  glass  paintings  from  the  Hof- 
glasmalerei,  by  Zettler. 

The  ^fonuments  of  Munich  are  numer- 
ous, the  principal  of  which  is  the  gigantic 
bronze  statue  of  Bavaria,  modeled  by 
Schwanthaler,  Bavaria's  greatest  sculptor, 
and  cast  in  bronze  at  the  Royal  Foundery 
by  Miller.  This  statue,  which  is  consid- 
|ered  the  most  elaborate  and  comprehen- 
sive of  the  kind  in  the  world,  stands  on  a 
granite  pedestal  thirty  feet  high,  the  top 
of  which  is  reached  by  49  steps.  The 
statue  itself  stands  sixty-six  feat  high,  and 
seventy-eight  tons  of  metal  were  used  in 
the  casting.  It  was  commenced  in  1844, 
and  finished  in  1850.  The  material  is 
mostly  the  cannon  captured  from  different 
nations ;  the  principal  were  the  Turkish 
guns  taken  at  the  battle  of  Navarino.  In 
the  figure's  left  hand  is  a  wreath  of  glory, 
in  her  right  a  sword  adorned  with  circling 
laurels,  prepared  to  crown  all  those  found 
worthy  of  such  glory.  The  attitude  of 
this  commanding  figure  is  exceedingly 
fine.  She  is  clothed  in  flowing  garments 
and  a  fur  tunic.  At  her  side  stands  the 
Bavarian  lion,  of  colossal  size.  In  the 
rear  of  the  statue  a  bronze  door  is  placed, 
through  which  you  pass  up  a  flight  of 
stairs  to  the  top  of  the  pedestal ;  then  an- 
other, of  iron,  to  the  inside  of  the  head, 
where  eight  persons  can  comfortably  sit 
at  one  time.  It  is  said  that  the  day  on 
which  it  was  raised  to  its  place  twenty- 
nine  men  and  two  boys  were  in  the  head, 
and  that,  amid  the  universal  joy  and  as- 
tonishment of  the  multitude,  they  emerged 
from  one  of  the  locks  of  Bavaria's  hair, 
and  one  after  another  descended  a  long 
ladder.  On  one  of  the  locks  which  rep- 
resent hair  is  the  following  inscription 
in  German  :  '•  This  colossal  statue,  erect- 
ed by  Ludwig  I.,  king  of  Bavaria,  was 
designed  and  modeled  by  Ludwig  von 
Schwanthaler,  and  was  cast  in  bronze 
and  executed,  between  the  years  1844  and 
\1850,  by  Ferdinand  Miller."  The  arms 
are  24  feet  9  inches  long,  the  nose  1  foot 
11  inches,  the  mouth  15  inches  wide,  and 
the  eyes  11  inches.  The  total  cost  of  the 
statue,  not  comprising  the  pedestal,  was 
.7 '.'T.i  100.  Ladies  with  delicate  nerves  had 
better  not  make  the  ascent  into  the  head 
during  the  summer  months,  as  the  great 
660 


heat  of  the  bronze  often  causes  them  to 
faint.  To  restore  them  there  is  impossi- 
ble, and  it  is  by  no  means  expeditious  un- 
der the  circumstances.  Surrounding  the 
statue,  something  in  the  form  of  a  horse- 
shoe, is  the  Ruhmeshalle,  or  Hall  of  Glory. 
The  centre  front  is  214  feet  long,  the  sides 
93  feet;  it  is  GO  feet  high,  including  the 
base.  There  are  48  pillars,  in  the  Doric, 
each  24  feet  high,  between  which  are  seen 
affixed  to  the  wall  busts  of  Bavaria's 
greatest  inen.  The  ends  of  the  two  wings 
are  adorned  with  four  female  figures,  by 
Schwanthaler,  which  represent  the  four 
provinces  of  Bavaria,  viz.,  Bavaria,  the 
Palatinate,  Franconia,  and  Suabia.  The 
frieze  is  ornamented  with  forty-four  vic- 
tories, between  which  are  placed  forty- 
eight  figures — Industry.  Science,  and  the 
Arts.  The  whole  is  situated  a  short  dis- 
tance out  of  town,  on  an  elevated  spot  in 
the  Theresian  Meadows,  where  the  annual 
October  Volkfest  takes  place,  and  contig- 
uous to  the  race-course. 

In  front  of  the  Xeubau,  or  New  Palace, 
in  Max-Joseph  Platz,  is  the  monument  of 
the  king  Maximilian  Joseph  I.  It  is  of 
colossal  size,  cast  in  bronze,  and  repre- 
sents the  king  seated  on  a  throne.  It  is 
from  the  designs  of  Rauch,  of  Berlin.  In 
the  new  Maximilian  Street,  opposite  the 
Government  Palace,  notice  the  monument 
erected  to  General  Deroy,  who  died  on  the 
battle-field  of  Polotzk  in  1812. 

In  the  Wittelsliarh  Platz,  near  which 
stands  the  palace,  deserving  a  visit,  notice 
the  magnificent  equestrian  statue  erected 
to  the  Elector  Maximilian  I.  The  pedes- 
tal is  of  marble,  the  horse  and  rider  bronze. 
It  was  modeled  by  Schwanthaler,  and  cast 
by  Stiglmayer.  On  the  Carolinenplatz, 
surrounded  by  gardens  and  beautiful  resi- 
dences, is  a  splendid  bronze  obelisk  erect- 
ed by  Ludwig  to  the  Bavarians  who  fell 
in  the  Russian  campaign  of  1*1  '2. 

The  Slerjesthor.  or  Gate  of  Victory,  situ- 
ated at  the  end  of  the  Ludwigstrasse,  was 

i  finished  in  1850.  and  is  a  most  exquisite 

|  monument ;  it  was  built  after  the  model 
of  Constantino's  triumphal  arch  at  Rome, 
and  dedicated  to  the  Bavarian  army  by 
King  Ludwig.  The  arch  is  crowned  by  a 
colossal  statue  of  Bavaria  in  a  triumphal 

|  chariot,  harnessed  with  four  Bavarian  lions, 
the  whole  executed  in  bronze  from  designs 

|  by  Von  Wagner.     At  the  other  end  of  this 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MUNICH. 


beautiful  street  notice  the  Feldherrenhal'e, 
or  Hall  of  the  Marshals,  with  the  bronze 
statues  of  General  Tilly  and  Prince  Carl 
Wrede. 

The  last  erected,  and  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  monuments  in  Munich,  that  to 
Maximilian  II.,  who  died  March  10,  1864,  I 
to  the  great  grief  not  only  of  Munich,  for 
which  he  had  done  so  much,  but  of  all 
Havana,  was  unveiled  September,  1875, 
amid  great  rejoicings.  It  is  situated  at  one 
end  of  the  magnificent  new  street  he  built, 
vi/..  Maximiliansstrasse. 

The  socle  of  the  monument  is  of  black 
syenite  (the  hardest  stone  found  in  Bava- 
ria) ;  the  upper  part  is,  however,  of  red 
granite  (found  in  Saxony).  All  the  ma- 
sonry work  was  executed  by  Ackermann. 
of  Weissenstadt.  The  socle,  including 
pedestal,  is  41  feet  high,  the  figure  of  the 
king  19  feet ;  the  whole  60  feet  high. 

The  sculptura  is  by  Professor  Zumbusch, 
of  Vienna.  The  whole  was  cast  in  the  Royal 
Bronze-Foundery  here,  under  the  direction 
of  the  present  proprietor,  Mr.  Miller.  The 
four  figures  represent  Justice,  Science,  Peac.~, 
and  Power,  the  height  of  which,  if  standing, 
would  be  16  feet.  There  are  four  boys 
with  shields  in  front,  holding  up  wreaths 
of  laurel. 

The  cost  of  the  entire  work  was  164,000 
florins. 

In  Jfarienplatz,  or  Market-place,  stands 
one  of  the  oldest  monuments  of  Munich: 
it  is  a  pillar  of  red  marble,  crowned  with  a 
bronze  statue  of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  and 
is  called  Marien-Saule.  It  was  erected  by 
Maximilian  I.  in  1033,  in  memory  of  the 
victory  gained  by  him  over  Frederick,  the 
elector  palatine.  There  are  several  fine 
monuments,  some  of  them  erected  recent- 
ly, on  the  Promenadenplatz. 

The  churches  of  Munich  are  venr  inter- 
esting, but  do  not  compare  with  the  pict- 
ure-galleries in  point  of  interest.  The 
principal  is  the  Cathedral,  or  f'rauenkirche, 
which  was  founded  at  the  end  of  the  13th 
century.  The  present  building  was  finish- 
ed at  the  end  of  the  15th  :  it  is  surmounted 
by  two  tall  towers,  variously  stated  by 
different  authors  at  from  318  to  335  feet  in 
height.  The  most  remarkable  monument 
in  the  church,  and  one  deserving  particular 
attention,  is  the  tomb  of  the  Kmperor  Louis 
of  Bavaria,  erected  to  his  memory  by  the 
Elector  Maximilian  I.  in  the  year  io.'-_' ; 
VOL.  II.— F  2 


and  in  the  catafalque  beneath  repose  the 
remains  of  the  Bavarian  royal  family  from 
1295  to  1G26.  The  organ  is  remarkable 
fur  its  size  and  tone.  A  very  fine  picture 
of  the  Assumption,  by  P.  Candide,  may  be 
seen  over  the  high-altar. 

Mlfhatlshnfkirche,  or  Jesuits'  Church 
of  St.  Michael,  erected  for  the  Jesuits  by 
Duke  William  V.  The  interior  of  the 
church  is  in  the  Corinthian  style,  high- 
ly ornamented.  The  altar-piece  is  by 
Schwartz,  and  represents  the  Fall  of  the 
Angels.  The  great  attraction  of  the  church 
is  Thorwaldsen's  monument  to  Eugene 
Beauharnais,  duke  of  Leuchtenberg,  for- 
mer vice-king  of  Italy,  erected  to  his  mem- 
ory by  his  widow,  daughter  of  the  King 
Max-Joseph  :  it  is  of  pure  Carrara  marble. 
The  prince  is  represented  standing,  dressed 
in  a  plain  toga,  before  the  door  of  ilie  tomb : 
his  left  hand  on  his  heart,  in  his  right  he 
holds  a  crown  of  laurels.  At  his  feet  lie 
the  iron  crown  of  Italy,  his  helmet,  and 
armor.  To  his  right  stands  the.  Muse  of 
History,  and  to  his  left  the  Genius  of 
Death  and  Immortality.  The  tower  of 
this  church  fell  down  in  the  course  of  its 
erection,  and  has  not  since  been  finished. 

The  Tkeatiner-/fofkirche,  situated  in  Lud- 
wigstrasse,  was  built  by  Adelaide,  wife  of 
the  Elector  Ferdinand  Maria,  in  pursuance 
of  a  vow  so  to  do  should  she  be  blessed 
with  an  heir  to  the  throne,  having  been 
married  eight  years  without  that  event 
having  taken  place.  The  altar-piece  rep- 
resents Adelaide,  her  husband,  and  son  of- 
fering up  thanks  to  St.  Cajetan.  There  is 
a  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Tintorett. 
All  the  royal  family,  from  Ferdinand  Ma- 
ria to  Maximilian  Joseph,  are  interred  be- 
neath the  church.  Notice  particularly  the 
tomb  of  the  Princess  Josephine  Max  Caro- 
line, who  died  at  the  age  of  11  years :  it  is 
executed  by  Eberhard  from  designs  by 
Klenze. 

The  Basilica  of  St.  Bonifacius,  situated 
on  Carlsstrasse.  was  constructed  at  the  ex- 
pense of  King  Ludwig,  to  commemorate  the 
twenty-fifth  anniversary  of  his  marriage, 
or  silver  wedding.  The  first  stone  was  laid 
October  12. 1835.  and  it  was  consecrated  in 
November,  1850.  It  is  262  feet  long  by 
1:25  wide  and  80  high.  The  interior  is  di- 
vided into  five  naves  by  C6  marble  col- 
umns, with  richly  ornamented  capitals. 
The  walls  are  most  beautifully  frescoed  by 
CGI 


MUNICH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


STAHRENBERG. 


Hess  and  his  scholars.  The  upper  pict- 
ures in  the  middle  nave,  36  in  number, 
represent  the  spread  of  Christianity  in  Ger- 
many. The  twelve  large  pictures  repre- 
sent episodes  in  the  life  of  St.  Bonifacius, 
the  most  influential  of  all  the  German 
saints.  The  ten  smaller  pictures  represent 
the  less  important  events  of  his  life.  In 
the  niche  behind  the  high-altar  notice  the 
magnificent  fresco  of  the  Saviour  surround- 
ed by  a  glory  of  angels  :  beneath  are  the 
saints  and  martyrs.  In  the  centre,  St.  Boni- 
face ;  to  his  right  and  left,  those  saints  who 
have  in  particular  labored  for  the  advance- 
ment of  Christianity  in  Bavaria.  All  of 
these  frescoes  are  of  a  depth  and  freshness 
of  coloring  which  oil  painting  can  never 
attain ;  and  the  whole  interior  is  consider- 
ed one  of  the  most  beautiful  creations  of 
modern  art.  To  the  right,  after  you  enter 
the  church,  notice  a  sarcophagus  in  mar- 
ble :  it  is  destined  to  contain  the  body  of 
Ludwig  I.  after  his  death.  His  queen, 
Thcrese,  who  died  in  1854,  now  lies  here. 

Ludwiyskirche,  or  church  of  St.  Louis,  in 
Ludwigstrasse,  is  230  feet  long,  150  broad, 
and  has  two  towers  which  rise  to  the  height 
of  220  feet.  The  front  is  ornamented  with 
statues  of  Christ  and  the  four  Evangelists, 
by  Schwanthaler,  and  colossal  statues  of 
St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul.  The  frescoes  of 
the  interior  are  most  exquisite  :  they  were 
designed  by  Cornelius.  The  lion,  howev- 
er, of  the  church  is  his  great  fresco  of  the 
Last  Judgment,  which  was  designed  by 
him  in  Rome  in  1835,  and  painted  by  him- 
self in  1836, 1837,  and  1838.  It  is  surpassed 
by  few  pictures  either  in  size  or  execution : 
it  is  63  feet  high  and  39  wide. 

The  other  churches  are  the  parish  church 
of  Maria  Hilf,  on  the  other  side  of  the  riv- 
er, in  the  suburb  of  Au ;  the  chapel  of  All 
Saints,  behind  the  palace ;  and  the  parish 
church  of  St.  Peter,  which  is  the  oldest  in 
Munich. 

Visit  the  Tsar  Thor,  one  of  the  ancient 
entrances  into  the  old  city.  It  w  is  re- 
stored by  Gartner  in  1833,  and  decorated 
with  a  beautiful  fresco. 

One  of  the  finest  promenades  and  re- 
treats in  warm  weather  is  the  English  Gar- 
den, which  adjoins  the  Hofgarten  before 
described ;  it  is  four  miles  long  by  half  a 
mile  wide.  It  was  laid  out  by  Karl  Theo- 
dore, the  elector,  but  owes  its  adornment 
principally  to  Maximilian  Joseph  I.  Here 
662 


we  have  beautiful  meadows,  magnificent 
groups  of  trees,  lakes,  fountains,  running 
brooks,  and  shady  walks.  There  are  also 
bath-houses,  temples,  and  pagodas. 

At  the  end  of  the  English  Garden,  on 
the  right  side  of  the  Isar  river,  is  Dr. 
Steinbacher's  celebrated  cure  establish- 
ment Brunnthal,  where,  during  twenty 
3'ears  past,  patients  have  been  cured  with 
good  effect  by  a  new  system — the  Schrotli- 
Priessnitz,  in  combination  with  Banting 
cure,  electro -galvanism,  gymnastics,  etc. 
A  new  and  beautiful  bathing-saloon  has 
all  the  hydraulic  improvements  which  are 
now  known.  The  establishment  is  also 
much  frequented  in  winter  time. 

The  Strafarbdtshaus,  or  Great  Prison, 
as  well  as  the  Public  Cemetery,  will  well 
repay  a  visit.  The  royal  painting  glass 
manufactory  should  also  be  visited ;  fee 
12  kr.  Some  most  remarkable  sights  may 
be  seen  at  the  Anatomical  Museum;  fee  24 
kr.  The  principal  theatres  of  Munich  are 
the  Theatre  National  and  Royal  or  Court 
Theatre,  in  Max-Joseph  Platz ;  the  Thea- 
tre Royal  of  the  Residenz;  and  the  Volks, 
or  People's  Theatre,  Gaertner  Platz. 

The  principal  excursions  in  the  vicinity 
of  Munich  are,  first,  the  royal  palace  of 
Nymphenburg,  about  three  miles  distant, 
connected  with  Munich  by  a  very  beau- 
tiful avenue  of  linden-trees.  It  is  built 
something  in  the  style  of  Versailles.  It 
was  commenced  by  the  Elector  Ferdinand 
Maria  for  his  queen,  Adelaide,  in  the  year 
1663.  It  is  surrounded  with  the  usual 
number  of  fountains,  parks,  gardens,  etc. 
In  one  part  of  the  side  pavilions  the  royal 
porcelain  factory  is  situated. 

The  royal  palace  of  Schleissheim,  about 
two  hours'  walk  from  Munich,  will  well 
repay  a  visit.  It  formerly  contained  a 
splendid  gallery  of  paintings,  but  the  prin- 
cipal paintings  were  removed  to  the  Pina- 
cothek  some  time  since ;  there  is  still,  how- 
ever, a  fine  collection  here. 

An  excursion  should  be  made,  if  the  trav- 
eler have  time,to  the  Lake  of  Stahrenberg,  in 
1  h.  5  m.  from  Munich ;  fare,  2  marks  10  pf. 

Stahrenberg. —  Hotels,  Baynscher  Jlof 
and  Pellet.  From  these  houses  there  is  a 
lovely  view  of  the  chain  of  Alps.  Prince 
Charles  has  a  handsome  chateau  behind 
the  town. 

At  Possenhnfen  there  is  a  chateau,  the 
property  of  the  Duke  Maximilian.  Feld- 


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nil-Book 


AUGSBURG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


afing,  from  whence  a  fine  prospect  can  be 
had,  is  one  of  the  places  the  most  visited 
on  the  lake.  On  the  other  side  of  the  lake 
(fifteen  minutes  to  cross)  is  Lfoui.  Near 
this  is  the  Chateau  de  Berg,  which  belongs 
to  the  king.  The  visitor  should  ascend  the 
height  RottmcaukOht,  from  which  place  there 
is  a  most  charming  view. 

There  is  a  small  steamer  running  on  the 
lake.  Return  tickets  are  sold  at  reduced 
price  at  Munich. 

A  new  line  of  railway  has  been  opened 
direct  from  Munich  to  Lindau  (Lake  Con- 
stance), the  nearest  route  to  Switzerland. 
Time,  5  h.  20  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  20  marks 
15  pf. ;  second  class,  14  marks  20  pf.  (Route 
33,  Vol.  III.) 

From  Lindau,  steamer  on  the  lake  to 
Constance.  Ili/tel  Bad,  a  new  and  splen- 
did establishment. 

Munich  to  Paris.  Time,  23  h.  35  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  88  marks  80  pf. ;  second 
class,  C4  marks  50  pf. 

Munich  to  Leipzig.  Time,  11  h.  55  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  49  marks  30  pf. 

Munich  to  Frankfort.  Time,  9  h.  41  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  37  marks  40  pf. 

Munich  to  Berlin.  Time,  1C  h.  5  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  74  marks  40  pf. 

Munich  to  I'ienna.  Time,  11  h.  56  m. ; 
fare,  42  marks  45  pf. 


ROUTE  No.  173. 

Munich  to  Strasburg  and  Paris,  via  A  ugs- 
bury,  Ulm,  and  Stnttgnrt.  Time,  36  hours 
(to  Paris)  ;  fare,  first  class,  96  marks ;  sec- 
ond class,  76  marks. 

From  Munich  to  Augsburg.  Time,  1  h. 
35  m. 

Augsburg  is  an  important  manufactur- 
ing town,  situated  on  the  river  Lech,  a 
branch  of  the  Danube,  in  the  western  por- 
tion of  the  kingdom  of  Bavaria.  It  con- 
tains 52,000  inhabitants.  There  is  noth- 
ing of  importance  here  to  detain  the  trav- 
eler. The  city  was  formerly  surrounded 
by  walls ;  they  are  now,  however,  razed  to 
the  ground,  and  laid  out  in  very  agreeable 
promenades.  It  was  a  free  city  of  the  em- 


AUGSBUBO. 


!  pirc  from  12C8.  In  the  15th  and  16th  cen- 
turies it  had  attained  its  greatest  prosper- 
ity, and  was  the  centre  of  commerce  be- 
tween the  east  and  the  north  of  Europe. 
Many  of  its  citizens  enjoyed  great  wealth 
and  power,  and  three  of  its  maidens  (one 
the  daughter  of  a  barber)  married  princes. 
I  The  celebrated  "Fugger"  family  raised 
themselves  within  a  century  from  poor 
weavers  to  the  wealthiest  nobles  of  the  day, 
and  became  the  creditors  of  monarch* ; 
and  Welser,  another  of  its  citizens,  fitted 
out  a  squadron  to  take  possession  of  Vene- 
zuela, which  had  been  pledged  to  him  by 
the  Emperor  Charles  V.  Augsburg  is  cele- 
brated for  the  making  of  clocks,  and  its 
goldsmith  and  jewelry  works. 

The  Bishop's  Palace,  or  Sch/oss,  is  his- 
torically noted  for  containing  the  hall  in 
which  the  Protestant  Confession  rf  Faith 
was  presented  to  the  Emperor  Charles  V., 
1530.  Here  also  the  interview  between 
Martin  Luther  and  the  Cardinal  Cajetan 
took  place  in  1542.  The  Cathedral  is  an 
irregular  building  in  the  Byzantine  style. 
The  bas-reliefs  on  its  bronze  doors  are  very 
fine. 

In  Maximiliansstrasse,  which  is  the  prin- 
cipal street  in  Augsburg,  are  three  bronze 
fountains ;  two  of  them,  by  Adrian  de 
Vries,  are  very  interesting  specimens  of 
art. 

The  gallery  of  paintings  situated  in  the 
old  convent  of  St.  Catharine  contains  a 
good  collection  of  the  old  German  masters, 
Burgkmair,  Zeitblom,  etc.  It  is  open 
every  day,  from  10  to  12 :  fee,  24  kr.  There 
are  several  pictures  of  Hans  Holbein  the 
elder,  who  was  a  native  of  Augsburg.  The 
leading  political  paper  in  German}',  the 
A  Ugemcine  Zeittmg,  is  published  here  by  the 
bookseller  Baron  von  Cotta. 

Augsburg  contains  an  historical  souvenir 
in  tin-  house  in  which  the  Emperor  Napo- 
leon III.  resided  with  his  mother  between 
the  years  1821  and  1824.  The  house  at 
the  present  time  belongs  to  Count  Fugger- 
Kirchberg-Weisscnhorn.  Prince  Napoleon 
during  that  time  attended  the  academy  of 
St.  Anne. 

In  the  centre  of  Place  Louis,  near  the 
Hotel  de  Ville.  stands  the  fountain  of  Au- 
gustus, founder  of  the  city,  executed  in 
bronzu  in  liJOO.  The  Fountains  of  Her- 
cules and  Mercury  are  also  both  executed 
in  bronze.  To  the  right  is  the  fine  "  House 


ULM. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


STUTTGART. 


of  Fugger,"  the  exterior  of  which  was  dec- 
orated in  1863  by  paintings  in  fresco  illus- 
trating events  in  the  life  of  this  family. 
The  house  where  Philippina  Welser,  who 
married  the  Archduke  Ferdinand  of  Aus- 
tria, was  born,  is  here  pointed  out. 

To  visit  the  castle  of  HoheKschwangau, 
and  examine  its  superb  frescoes  and  glori- 
ous scenery,  requires  six  hours'  time  from  ' 
Augsburg — two,  by  rail,  to  Kempten,  and 
four,  by  coach,  to  Fussen.  The  castle  is 
about  four  miles  from  Fussen,  and  is  situ- 
ated on  the  top  of  a  high  rock.  It  was  an 
old  Roman  castle,  and  was  rebuilt  and 
decorated  by  the  late  King  of  Bavaria 
when  crown-prince  in  1832.  The  frescoes  | 
are  most  magnificent.  The  first  floor  is 
used  by  the  queen,  and  consists  of  three 
saloons  and  three  chambers.  The  second 
floor,  occupied  by  his  majesty  the  king,  ' 
consists  of  six  saloons.  The  third  floor  is 
reserved  for  the  royal  princes.  The  royal 
family  usually  reside  here  a  few  weeks 
every  summer. 

From  Augsburg  to  Ulm,  distance  53 miles; 
time,  1  h.  50  m. 

Ulm  is  the  second  town  of  importance  in 
the  kingdom  of  Wiirtemberg.  It  is  finely  i 
situated  on  the  Danube ;  contains  24,800  j 
inhabitants,  and  a  garrison  of  5000  sol- 
diers. Hotels,  Kronprinz  and  Russischer 
Hof.  From  1842  to  1866  it  was  a  fortress 
of  the  Germanic  Confederation,  jointly 
garrisoned  by  Bavaria,  Wiirtemberg,  and 
Austria.  The  army  of  Wiirtemberg  now 
composes  the  28d  army  corps  of  the  Im- 
perial army.  It  was  formerly  one  of  the 
free  cities  of  the  German  empire,  and  is 
still  a  place  of  considerable  trade.  The 
manufacture  of  linen  is  one  of  the  most 
active  brandies  of  industry  carried  on 
here.  There  is  nothing  to  detain  the  trav- 
eler unless  he  has  plenty  of  time,  the  Min- 
ster, or  church,  being  the  only  object  of 
interest  in  the  town.  That,  certainly,  is 
very  fine,  its  carved  work  being  equal  to 
any  thing  of  the  kind  in  Germany.  The 
military  importance  of  Ulm  has  occa- 
sioned its  frequent  conquest  during  pe- 
riods of  war.  The  destruction  of  Gen- 
eral Mack's  army  by  Napoleon,  when, 
through  the  stupidity  of  the  general, 
30,000  Austrians  surrendered  their  for- 
tress without  striking  a  blow,  forms 
the  chief  event  of  the  kind  in  its  mod- 
ern history.  Large  quantities  of  Khine, 
664 


Swiss,  and  other  wines  are  shipped  from 
here  to  Vienna. 

The  cathedral  of  Ulm  was  founded  in 
1377,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  Gothic  churches 
in  Germany,  though  still  unfinished.  Its 
tower,  which  is  intended  to  be  475  feet  high, 
is  only  2-10.  An  inscription  announces  that 
it  was  ascended  in  1492  by  the  Kmperor 
Maximilian.  There  is  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  Alps  from  the  summit.  The  restora- 
tion of  this  edifice  has  been  going  on  for 
some  years,  and  it  is  expected  that  the 
tower  will  one  day  be  finished. 

Notice  the  beautiful  entrance  underneath 
the  tower.  The  stalls  are  finely  carved  in 
oak,  and  are  from  the  15th  century  ;  they 
were  executed  by  Jorg  .^yrlin.  The  stained- 
glass  windows  are  of  the  same  date.  The 
pulpit  and  shrine  are  very  beautiful ;  they 
were  executed  in  1500.  The  organ  is  the 
largest  in  Germany,  and  has  100  stops. 
The  chapel  of  the  ttesserer  family  contains 
a  beautiful  statue  of  Eitel  Bessercr.  The 
custodian  lives  on  one  side  of  the  principal 
entrance ;  fee,  30  kr. 

The  Rathhaus  is  situated  on  the  market- 
place. It  is  constructed  in  the  half  Gothic 
and  half  Renaissance  style,  and  is  decorated 
on  the  outside  with  frescoes. 

From  Ulm  there  are  lines  of  railway 
running  to  Friedrichshafen,  on  Lake  Con- 
stance ;  also  to  Lindau,  on  the  same  lake. 

From  U.m  to  Stuttgart.  Time,  2  h.  30  m. 
Passing  (JeisKngen,  above  which  rise  the 
ruins  of  H'1f,-nst<in,  and  the  stations  of 
Goppingen,  a  nice  modern  town,  and  Ploch- 
ingen,  the  town  of  Esslinr/en  is  passed  (for 
description,  see  Route  No.  179),  and  we  ar- 
rive at  Stuttga:  t. 

KINGDOM  OF  WUKTEMBERG. 

The  government  of  AVurtenibprg  is  con- 
stitutional and  hereditary.  The  state  con- 
tains 7618  square  miles  of  territory,  and 
1,818,539  inhabitants,  of  which  two  thirds 
are  Protestants. 

The  reigning  sovereign  is  Charles  I., 
Frederick  Alexander,  born  in  Stuttgart 
the  6th  of  March,  1823.  He  succeeded  his 
father,  William  I.,  June  25th.  1864.  He 
married  the  queen,  Olga  Nicolaievna  (liorn 
llth  September.  1S22).  daughter  of  Nich- 
olas, emperor  of  Russia,  the  loth  of  Julv, 
1846. 

Stuttgart,  the  capital  and  chief  citv  of  the 


STVTTQART. 


[THE  KMI'IRK  OF  GKRMAXY.] 


STCTTGABT. 


kingdom  of  Wurtemberg,  is  situated  a  short  ! 
distance  to  the  west  ot'tlie  Nt-ckar,  and  sur- 
rounded by  hills  covered  to  their  summits 
with  vine-yards  and  orchards.  It  contain*  a 
population  of  117.303.  The  principal  hotel, 
and  one  of  the  best  in  Germany,  is  Ili'<hl 
Marqunrdt.  The  city  owes  its  importance 
to  the  residence  of  the  court  and  foreign 
ministers.  The  surrounding  country  is  very 
lovely.  Although  a  place  of  great  autiq- 
uitv,  atti-.-ted  by  an  ancient  castle  which 
existed  here  in  the  llth  century,  a  large 
part  of  the  town  is  of  recent  origin,  having 
been  Imilt  since  Napoleon  raised  Wiirtein- 
berg  from  a  dukedom  to  a  kingdom.  The 
chief  |  leculiaritiesof  Stuttgart  arecleanliness 
and  good  order.  It  consists  of  one  principal 
street,  a  Magnificent  palace,  and  some  very 
extensive  public  buildings.  The  Ntw Pa!- 
.  very  imposing  edilice.  It  is  said  to 
contain  as  many  rooms  as  there  are  days  in 
the  year.  Immediately  above  the  grand 
entrance,  on  the  roof,  is  an  enormous  gilt 
crown,  giving  the  building  rather  a  singu- 
lar appearance.  The  palace,- with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  private  apartments,  may  be 
seen  every  day  by  ticket,  which  can  be 
procured  from  the  inspector.  A  fee  of  a 
florin  is  expected.  There  are  some  very 
fine  pictures,  and  some  statuary  by  Thor- 
waldsen.  It  has  one  great  advantage,  be- 
ing situated  in  Iwth  town  and  country ; 
opening,  on  one  side,  into  a  line  park  which 
leads  to  the  open  country,  and.  on  the  other, 
into  a  spacious  square  in  the  very  heart  of 
the  city.  In  the  same  square  with  the 
New  Palace  stands  the  Old  Palace.  In  the 
court-yard  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  Count 
Everard.  who  was  promoted  to  the  dignity 
of  duke  by  the  Emperor  Maximilian  in  the 
15th  century.  It  is  in  this  court  that  you 
procure  from  the  Intendant-General  tickets 
to  visit  Rosenstein  and  Wilhelmina.  The 
theatre  also  stands  in  this  square.  It  \»  a 
very  indifferent  building.  Stuttgart  has 
been  distinguished  as  the  birthplace  or 
ace  of  some  of  the  most  eminent 
German  literati  and  artists,  such  as  Schiller, 
who  wrote  his  '•  Robbers"  hero.  Dannecker, 
Menzel,  and  Baron  von  Cotta,  the  famous 
publisher.  Printing,  bookbinding,  weav- 
ing, cotton  and  woolen  goods,  and  the  manu- 
facture of  musical,  optical,  and  mathemat- 
ical instruments,  die  the  principal  branches 
of  manufacturing  industry. 

The  public  library  should  be  visited  ;  it 


contains  over  300,000  volumes,  3(500  MSS. ; 
it  has  one  of  the  tincst  collections  of  Bibles 
in  Germany,  printed  in  over  eighty  different 
languages.  In  the  same  street  (the  Neck- 
arstrasse)  there  is  a  Mnoum  •./'  Natural 
History  ;  open  every  day  from  11  to  12  and 
2  to  3.  The  cabinet  of  medals  (19,000)  com- 
municates with  the  library. 

.In  the  Schl ,s.--pl :tz  stands  the  "Com- 
memorative Column,"  erected  in  1841,  on. 
the  occasion  of  the  25th  anniversary  of  the 
reign  of  King  William  :  "  To  the  m'>st  faith- 
ful ft i  nd  of  t/ie  peop'e,  William  the  icetl- 
\  beloved." 

The  Museum  of  Fine  Arts  has  of  late 
years  rapidly  increased  in  interest,  and  a 
day  may  now  be  well  spent  here.  It  con- 
tains casts  of  the  most  celebrated  works 
of  ancient  and  modern  sculpture,  among 
which  are  casts  of  all  the  works  of  Thor- 
waldsen,  presented  by  himself  in  1844.  It 
is  open  to  the  public  from  11  to  1  and  2  to  4 
on  Sundays ;  Monday.  Wednesday,  and 
Friday  from  10  to  12  and  2  to  4  ;  the  other 
clays  at  the  same  hours ;  fee,  24  kr.  The 
picture-gallery  is  open  on  Sundays.  Wednes- 
days, and  Fridays  free.  It  contains  some 
paintings  of  Murillo,  Rubens,  Guido,  Paul 
Veronese,  Rembrandt,  Velasquez,  Titian, 
Zurbaran,  Tintoretto,  and  others  equally 
celebrated. 

On  the  Konigsstrasse,  which  is  the  hand- 
somest street,  opposite  the  Schlossplatz, 
stands  the  Kdnig*ban,  finished  in  1860. 
The  ground  floor  contains  the  Exchange 
open  from  2  to  3,  a  splendid  cafe,  and  a 
handsome  arcade,  near  which  is  the  palace 
of  the  dowager  queen,  the  Ministry  rf  t'o  - 
dgn  Affair,*,  and  a  splendid  Ha 

There  is  also  a  fine  new  Post-office. 

The  Museum  is  the  property  of  a  club, 
containing  reading-room,  restaurant,  etc. 
Introduction  by  members. 

The  Lierierk  ille  is  the  property  of  a  vocal 
association.  Large  concerts  are  often  given 
here.  A  tine  garden  is  attached.  Opposite 
to  this  is  the  Carltschnle,  an  institution  of 
high  reputation.  It  was  here  that  Schiller 
received  his  elementary  education. 

The  king's  stables  should  most  certain- 
ly be  vi.-iteu  :  hi.*  stud  of  Arabian  horses 
is  the  finest  in  Germany.  A  fee  of 'J4  kr. 
is  expected. 

One  of  the   most  interesting  visits  the 
traveler  can  make,  and  one  he  will  never 
forget,  is  that  to  the  king's  Grecian  villa 
665 


CANXSTADT. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMAN!.] 


CANNSTADT. 


of  Rosensteln.  It  is  absolutely  necessary 
to  procure  a  ticket  to  gain  admittance  : 
this  may  be  done  at  the  Hotel  Marquardt. 
The  villa  is  situated  at  the  extremity  of 
the  Palace  Gardens,  and  is  reached  by  a 
beautiful  avenue,  shaded  with  trees,  two 
miles  in  extent  (notice  the  two  marble 
horses,  by  Hofer,  on  your  way).  The 
view  from  this  villa  is  one  of  the  most 
lovely  in  Germany,  and  the  different  rooms 
are  lilled  with  paintings  and  sculpture  of 
the  rarest  excellence.  The  views  of  the 
principal  places  in  Spain,  Italy,  and  the 
Hoi}'  Land  are  most  correct,  and  are  de- 
cidedly interesting  to  travelers  who  have 
visited  those  countries.  A  fee  of  30  kr.  is 
expected,  or  one  florin  for  a  party.  A 
short  distance  from  Rosenstein  the  king 
has  erected  a  lovely  Moorish  building, 
called  Wilhelmina,  which  can  be  visited  at 
the  same  time.  The  interior  is  perfectly 
beautiful. 

About  two  and  a  half  miles  from  Stutt- 
gart, reached  by  railway  or  American 
tramway,  is  the  favorite  resort  of  the  citi- 
zens, 

Cannstadt,  noted  for  its  saline  and  other 
springs.  Hotels,  Hermann,  Bellevue,  and 
Cannstadt.  Endeavor  to  be  in  Cannstadt 
about  the  28th  of  September,  at  which  time 
the  Volksfest  takes  place.  This  is  the  day 
after  the  king's  birthday,  on  which  occa- 
sion he  distributes  prizes  to  the  successful 
breeders  of  horses  and  cattle,  in  the  pres- 
ence of  the  different  members  of  the  royal 
family.  All  the  surrounding  country 
turns  out  to  do  honor  to  the  day.  After 
the  prizes  are  distributed  the  horse-racing 
takes  place  on  the  course  adjoining  the 
fair  ground.  The  performances  are  most 
exciting  and  very  amusing. 

The  baths  of  the  River  Neckar  are  very 
good  and  cheap  —  only  25  pfennigs,  with 
linen.  Those  of  Strudel,  adjoining  the 
theatre  (15  kreutzers),  are  also  very  fine. 
After  the  morning's  bath  the  bathers  as- 
semble at  the  Kursaal,  behind  which  are 
some  very  beautiful  walks.  Observe  the 
painted  notices  stuck  up  requesting  friends 
or  acquaintances  not  to  take  off  their  hats : 
"  Man  bittet  slth  nic/tt  durch  IIut-Abnthmen 
za  griissen."  The  custom  of  continually 
taking  off  your  hat,  not  only  to  a  friend  or 
acquaintance,  but,  if  walking  with  a  friend, 
to  doff  it  to  his  friend  or  acquaintance,  al- 
though you  may  never  have  seen  him  be- 
"  6C6 


fore,  is  decidedly  tiresome;  consequently, 
for  the  convenience  of  promenaders,  who 
are  continually  meeting  one  another  dur- 
ing their  walks,  the  notice  informs  them 
that  they  are  expected  to  dispense  with  the 
custom  so  universal  in  Germany.  Ascend 
the  height  of  the  Sulzerain,  near  which 
three  of  the  principal  springs  arise,  and  get 
a  glorious  view  of  the  surrounding  country. 
The  mineral  springs  in  and  around  the 
town  are  very  numerous,  being  over  forty 
in  number  :  they  are  nearly  all  cold — one 
alone  is  tepid.  The  railway  passes  by  them : 
only  8  minutes  from  Stuttgart. 

Excursions  should  also  be  made  to  the 
Solitude  (an  abandoned  castle,  or  hunting- 
lodge,  belonging  to  the  king,  built  about 
one  hundred  years  ago).  It  was  formerly 
the  celebrated  Carlsschule.  The  grounds 
command  an  extensive  view.  Schiller's 
father  was  inspector  of  the  gardens  here. 
In  the  vicinity  there  is  a  deer  park  and 
bears'  den.  The  deer  are  fed  at  11  A.M., 
and  the  wild  boars  at  6  P.M.  Cards  of 
admission  in  office  of  the  Royal  Chasse  at 
the  Academy  in  Stuttgart.  JJohenlicim, 
another  chateau,  built  by  the  Duke  Charles 
in  1768,  six  miles  from  Stuttgart,  should 
also  be  visited.  Carriages  may  be  procured 
at  the  Hotel  Marquardt  to  make  these  dif- 
ferent excursions. 

Stuttgart  to  Pans.  Time,  16  h.  45  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  66  marks  80  pf. ;  second 
class,  49  marks. 

Stuttgart  to  Friedrichshafen  (on  Lake 
Constance).  Time,  5  h.  58  m. ;  fare,  first 
class,  15  marks  90  pf. ;  second  class,  9 
marks. 

Stuttgart  to  Munich.  Time,  5  h.  50  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  22  marks  5  pf. ;  second 
class,  15  marks  50  pf. 

From  Stuttgart  to  JBruchsal  Junction. 
Time,  2  h.  3  m. ;  fare,  6  marks  35  pf.  For 
description  of  Route  from  Bruchsal,  see 
Route  No.  184. 


ROUTE  No.  174. 

Mim'ch   to   Frankfort,  via   Gunzenhau- 
sen,  A  >ifp  ich,  and  Wuriburg.     Time,  9  h. 


INOOLSTAUT. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


HEILBRONN. 


41  m. ;  faro,  first  class.  37  marks  10  pf. ;  sec- 
ond class,  26  marks  15  pf.  There  i-  vt-ry 
little  to  interest  the  traveler  in  this  route. 

I'.-is-ing  several  unimportant  stations, 
•we  reach  the  fortress  ami  town  of 

Inyolttadt.—Hote],  1,'oldat  r.ldl  r.  Pop- 
ulation, 13,000.  This  ancient  town  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Danube,  and  contains  nothing 
of  importance.  Its  Cathedral  was  built  in 
the;  loth  century,  and  contains  the  monu- 
ments of  Tilly  and  Mercy ;  also  of  the 
famous  Dr.  Eck,  the  adversary  of  Luther. 

Ingolstadt  was  the  first  place  in  Ger- 
many where  a  Jesuit  college  was  founded. 
Gustavus  Adolphus  vainly  besieged  it  in 
1)!3'J,  while  Tilly  was  lying  mortally  wound- 
ed within  its  walls.  It  was  captured  by  the 
French  under  Moreau,  after  a  three  months' 
siege,  in  1800.  Its  fortifications  were  con- 
siderably augmented  in  1827. 

Communicating  on  the  Danube  with 
Baiiabon, 

Eickstadt  (Hotel,  Bayrischer  H«f)  con- 
tains 7600  inhabitants,  and  is  finely  situ- 
ated in  the  valley  of  the  Altmuhl.  It  is 
the  chief  town  of  a  small  principality  which 
was  bestowed  on  Prince  Eugene  Beauhar- 
nais,  duke  of  Leuchtenberg,  in  1817,  and 
was  the  residence  of  the  duke,  his  son,  up 
to  1854,  whose  successors  have,  by  an 
imperial  Russian  ukase,  become  imperial 
princes  and  princesses.  It  has  bean  the 
seat  of  a  bishop  since  740,  when  it  was 
founded  by  St.  Willibald. 

The  Cathedral  was  founded  in  1042,  and 
is  an  interesting  edifice.  Its  choir  dates 
from  1351.  The  church  of  St.  Walpurgi* 
contains  the  tomb  of  that  saint,  who  was  its 
founder.  On  the  first  of  May.  which  is  the 
saint's  fete-day,  thousands  of  pilgrims  re- 
pair to  his  shrine. 

On  the  height  above  the  town  stand  the 
ruins  of  the  castle  of  \YVlibaldsbtirg. 

The  next  station  is  Solnhofen,  where 
nearly  all  the  lithographic  stones  used  in 
the  world  are  quarried.  None  others  have 
been  found  so  good,  and  the  entire  village 
is  occupied  in  quarrying  them  and  convey- 
ing them  to  the  railway  ami  Danube. 

-ing  the  station  and  junction  where 
lines  cross  running  to  Stuttgart  and  Nu- 
remberg.  we  arrive  at 

Anxp-icfi,  a  town  of  12.750  inhabitants. 
Hotel,  Xtern.  It  was  formerly  the  capital 
and  residence  of  the  margraves  of  Anspaeb, 
and  later  of  the  princes  of  Bayreuth.  They 


were  connected  with  the  younger  branch 
of  the  imperial  house  of  Germany,  to  whom 
the  last  of  his  line  sold  the  property.  It  was 
acquired  by  Bavaria  in  1806. 

About  two  hours  by  carriage  or  omnibus 
is  the  town  of 

//eilbronn.  which  contains  a  most  inter- 
esting church,  founded  in  1150,  and  restored 
in  1860.  It  possesses  some  fine  monuments 
of  the  margraves  of  Brandenburg. 

At  Steinach  travelers  wishing  to  visit 
the  old  and  interesting  town  of  Rothenburg 
may  do  so  by  diligence,  which  leaves  three 
times  per  day.  Time,  two  hours.  It  was 
formerly  a  free  city  of  the  empire.  Its  wall 
and  ramparts  are  still  well  preserved,  and 
the  architecture  of  its  churches,  Kathhaus, 
and  houses  most  interesting.  Its  principal 
church  is  St.  James's,  founded  in  the  14 th 
century ;  its  altar  and  stained-gHss  win- 
dows are  very  fine. 

\\'iirzburg  contains  a  population  of  45,000. 
Hotel,  Crown  Prince  of  Bavaria,  an  admira- 
bly managed  house,  situated  in  front  of  the 
Kind's  Palace.  Wurzburg  is  situated  on 
the  Main,  and  is  connected  with  its  suburb, 
.\fninriertel,  by  a  stone  bridge  adorned  with 
saints  ;  it  is  finely  built,  with  wide  streets, 
and  contains  many  quaint  old  houses.  The 
Royal  Palace,  built  after  the  plan  of  Yer- 
seilles,  has  many  handsome  apartments, 
including  a  chapel  decorated  in  the  Louis 
XIV.  style,  312  rooms,  and  25  kitchens; 
and,  inside  and  outside,  few  royal  palaces  in 
any  country  can  compare  with  it.  Three 
days  in  the  week  there  is  military  music  in 
front  of  the  palace;  the  gardens  in  the  rear 
are  quite  beautiful. 

The  Cathedral,  in  the  Domstrasse,  which 
dates  from  the  12th  century,  contains  mon- 
uments of  the  Prince  Bishops.  The  Xeu- 
munsttr  Church,  which  dates  from  the  10th 
century,  contains  in  the  crypt  the  remains 
of  St.  Kilian  and  his  companions.  Among 
other  monuments  is  that  of  the  trouba- 
dour Walther  von  der  Vogelweide,  cele- 
brated by  Longfellow.  There  are  thirteen 
other  churches,  with  nine  others  in  the  sub- 
urb, including  a  Jewish  synagogue.  The 
city  also  contains  numerous  schools,  hos- 
pitals, and  other  charitable  and  scientific 
institutions.  Its  University  was  founded 
in  l.")S2,  and  is  celebrated  as  a  medical 
school.  A  visit  should  be  made  to  the 
celebrated  CitmM  of  Maritnberg,  which  is 
open  to  the  public  free. 

667 


KAUFBECERN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


RAVENSBURC* 


ROUTE  No.  175. 

Lindau  to  Augsburg  and  Wiirzlury,  via 
Nordlingen  and  Mergentheim.  Time  from 
Lindau  to  Augsburg,  5  h. ;  fare,  18  marks  55 
pf. ; — to  Wiirzburg,  tt'aGunzenhausen,!!  h. 
5m.;  fare,40mks.; — from  Augsburg  to  \Vurz- 
burg,  5  h.  35  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  111  inks.  30  pf. 

(  KOUTE  No.  176. 

Munich  to  Linlau  (on  Lake  Constance, 
the  most  direct  route  to  Switzerland). 
Time,  5  h.  20  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  20  marks 
15  pf. ;  second  class,  14  marks  20  pf. 

At  the  station  BuMoe  .the  line  unites 
with  that  from  Augsburg. 

Kavfbtuem,  an  old  but  unimportant 
town.  Hotel,  Sonne.  Passing  through  a 
narrow  gorge,  on  the  heights  above  are 
seen  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Wagegg,  and 
crossing  the  river  f.'ler  we  arrive  at 

Kempten,  finely  situated  on  the  Iller, 
containing  11,000  inhabitants.  Hotel, 
Krona.  This  old  imperial  town  was  the 
Capodunum  of  the  Romans.  It  was  at  one 
time  the  residence  of  the  powerful  Prince 
Abbots  of  Kempten,  who  formerly  held  a 
court  here  in  a  castle  in  the  upper  town, 
now  used  by  the  authorities.  Close  to  the 
castle  is  a  fine  church,  dating  from  the  18th 
century. 

Immenstadt  (Hotels,  Kreuz  and  ffirscK), 
a  handsome  town  situated  in  a  pretty  val- 
ley surrounded  by  high  mountains,  which, 
separate  Bavaria  from  the  Tyrol.  The 
Griinten,  5(>32  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  is  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  pano- 
rama; there  is  a  hotel  at  the  top.  It  is 
called  the  Bavarian  Rigi.  Two  omnibuses 
leave  daily  for  Xonthofen,  situated  up  the 
valley  about  one  hour  from  Immenstadt, 
which  is  the  best  point  to  make  the  ascent. 

The  railway  is  carried  to  the  banks  of 
the  lake. 

Linlau. — Ih'itel  de  Baviere,  a  large,  first- 
class  house  in  every  respect,  opposite  the 
steamboat  landing,  with  a  splendid  view  of 
the  lake  and  mountains,  and  offering  every 
inducement  for  a  prolonged  stay.  This 
a  nail  and  strongly  fortified  town,  belong- 
ing to  the  kingdom  of  Bavaria,  and  of con- 
piderable  importance  during  the  Middle 
Ages,  is  very  beautifully  situated  on  two 
small  islands  in  Lake  Constance,  and  is 
connected  with  the  shore  by  long  wooden 
bridges.  On  your  right  as  you  enter  the 
668 


harbor  an  immense  Bavarian  lion,  sitting 
on  his  hind-legs,  greets  you  with  any  tiling 
but  a  welcoming  smile.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  entrance  there  is  a  high  watch- 
tower  and  light-house.  On  the  port  there 
is  a  monument  to  Maximilian  II.,  erected 
in  1856,  after  the  model  of  Holbig:  it  rests 
on  a  pedestal  the  sides  of  which  are  orna- 
mented with  the  coats  of  arms  of  different 
cities,  and  figures  representing  Navigation, 
Industry,  Commerce,  and  the  Arts.  The 
remnants  of  an  old  tower  called  the  //«'- 
d'nthiirm  stand  at  the  end  of  the  old  bridge. 
It  is  supposed  to  be  of  Roman  origin.  An 
excursion  should  be  made  along  the  shore 
of  the  lake  to  iSchachenbad,  in  half  an  hour, 
where  there  is  a  pleasant  tea-garden. 
There  is  a  charming  view  of  the  lake  to 
be  obtained  here.  Fifteen  minutes  farther 
there  is  an  establishment  called  Lindenkof, 
with  a  fine  greenhouse  and  park.  Tues- 
day and  Friday  free ;  other  days  30  kr.  fee. 

Steamers  in  correspondence  with  trains 
sail  several  times  each  day  for  Constance, 
Bregenz,  Romanshorn,  and  liorschach. 

Trains  several  times  each  day  to  Munich, 
Augsburg,  and  Dim. 


ROUTE  No.  177. 

Ulm  to  Friedrichshafen.  Time,  3  h.  10 
m. ;  fare,  first  class,  8  marks  60  pf. ;  second 
class,  5  marks  80  pf. 

U/m,  described  in  Route  No.  173. 

Biberach,  formerly  a  free  imperial  city, 
at  present  a  small  town  surrounded  by 
walls  and  towers,  containing  7100  inhabit- 
ants. Hotel,  Deutscher  Kai*er.  The  place 
is  now  noted  for  the  manufacture  of  chil- 
dren's toys.  The  poet  Wieland  was  born 
in  the  adjoining  village  of  Obcrholzheim. 

Niederbiegen,  to  the  left  of  which  notice 
the  old  abbey  of  \\'dn.rjdrt-n,  which  for- 
merly belonged  to  the  Benedictine  monks, 
and  was  noted  at  one  time  for  possessing 
some  of  the  Saviour's  blood.  The  abbey 
is  now  an  orphan  asylum.  The  church 
contains  the  tomb  of  the  Guelphs,  who 
were  its  founders.  It  was  finely  restored 
by  the  orders  of  the  King  of  Hanover  in 
1859,  from  Klenze's  design.  The  organ 
was  built  by  Gdbler.  Frequent  pilgrim- 
ages are  made  to  this  church. 

Ravensburg  contains  8500  inhabitants. 
Hotel,  Pust.  This  old  town  was  formerly 


FRIEDRICHSHAFEN.        [THE  EMPIKE  OF  GERMANY.] 

a  free  imperial  city.  It  is  surrounded  by 
vine-covered  hills,  and  is  encompassed  l>y 
numerous  old  towers  of  different  shapes. 

There  is  an  old  (iothic  church,  recently 
restored.  From  Vtlhburg,  a  hill  some  1625 
feet  high,  fifteen  minutes  from  the  town. 
there  is  a  magnificent  view  over  Lake  Con- 
stance. Switzerland,  and  the  Alps.  About 
five  miles  east  of  the  town  stands  the  Cas- 
tle of  Walburrj.  the  stronghold  of  the 
M'ruchsess  of  \Valburg,"  an  ancient  fam- 
ily who  held  the  hereditary  title  of  Mint  re 
d'hiitel  of  the  empire. 

ilrich'-htifen,  a  town  of  2900  inhabit- 
ants, is  situated  on  Lake  Constance.  Ho- 
tel and  Pension,  Bellevue,  a  fine  house  over- 
looking the  lake,  and  near  the  steamboat 
landing  and  railway  station.  Garden,  car- 
.  etc.  Managed  liy  the  proprietor, 
Mr.  H.  Ueeg.  This  is  a  commercial  town 
of  recent  origin,  and  was  founded  by  Fred- 
erick of  Wurtemberg;  it  is  the  principal 
port  on  the  lake  for  German  goods  shipped 
to  Switzerland  and  Italy.  The  King  of 
Wiirtemberg  has  a  palace  in  the  vicinity, 
from  the  garden  of  which  are  numerous 
lovely  views.  The  town  is  much  resorted 
to  in  the  summer  for  bathing  in  the  lake. 

Steamers  leave  four  or  five  times  each 
day  for  different  points  on  the  lake.  To 
Romanshorn,  opposite,  in  one  hour. 


TUBINGEN. 


ROUTE  No.  179. 


ROUTE  No.  178. 

Ulm  to  Schuffhaitsen,  ria  Immendingen. 
Time,  *  h.  37  m. ;  fare,  19  marks  30  pf. 

••/linrjen  Junction  is  first  reached  (on 
Rontc  17l>),  in  1  h.  39  m. ;  fare,  5  marks ; 
whence  by  Route  179  to  Schaffhausen  in  5 
h.  56  m. ;  fare,  15  marks  95  pf. 

Schaffhausen,  see  Route  23,  Vol.  III. 


Stuttgart  to  XcJwfihnusen,  ria  Tubingen 
and  Immendinyen.  Time,  6  h.  37  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  18  marks  80  pf. ;  second  class, 
12  marks  50  pf. 

jEsstinyen,  situated  on  the  Neckar,  con- 
tains 14,100  inhabitants.  Hotel,  Krone. 
Tl  i-  was  at  one  time  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant of  the  free  imperial  cities.  It  was 
founded  in  1216  by  the  Emperor  Frederick 
II.,  and  is  still  partly  surrounded  by 
walls. 

The  principal  church  is  the  Liebfrauen- 
kirche,  finished  about  the  commencement  of 
the  16th  century.  It  is  constructed  in  the 
purest  Gothic  style.  It  was  restored  in 
1862.  It  contains  some  fine  stained-glass 
windows  and  handsome  sculptures.  The 
churches  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  Dems  are  also 
well  deserving  a  visit.  From  the  old  im- 
perii:!  castle  of  Pvrfried  there  is  a  fine 
view.  Esslingen  carries  on  considerable 
trade  in  sparkling  wines  and  machinerj'. 

At  Pishing:  n,  situated  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Fits  and  AVc£«>\  the  route  leaves  the 
line  to  Ulm  and  continues  in  a  southern 
direction  to 

Reutlingen. — Hotels,  Oclis  and  Kronprinz. 
This  town  contains  14,300  inhabitants,  is 
situated  on  the  River  Eehnz,  and  was  for- 
merly a  free  imperial  city.  The  water 
from  the  town  is  conducted  through  the 
streets. 

The  Ifari  nl-irch",  which  is  said  to  be  the 
finest  church  in  Wiirtemberg,  was  found- 
ed in  the  13th  century,  and  has  recently 
been  restored.  The  baptismal  font  is  very 
beautiful,  and  the  sculpture  is  most  admi- 
rably executed.  The  Holy  Sepulchre  is  a 
work  of  rare  excellence. 

Near  the  station  there  is  a  bronze  statue 
by  Keitz,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  po- 
litical economist  Li.<t. 

Tubingen,  finely  situated  on  the  Neckar. 
Hotels,  Traube  and  Prii.z  Carl.  It  is  prin- 
cipally noted  as  the  seat  of  a  University, 
dating  from  1477,  founded  by  the  Duke 
Eherhard.  Melanchthon  was  at  one  time 
a  lecturer  here. 

The  principal  church  is  the  Stiftikirckf, 
which  contains  numerous  monuments ; 
among  others  that  of  Duke  Eberhard.  The 
stained-glass  windows  are  very  fine.  The 
University  contains  a  line  collection  of  fos- 
sils. A  splendid  view  may  be  obtained 
"G69 


ROTTENBURG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


from  the  old  Schloss  which  commands  the 
town. 

About  one  hour's  distance  from  Tubin- 
gen is  the  line  old  monastery  of  hi-l»-n1«i>i- 
sen,  founded  in  1183.  It  is  considered  one 
of  the  finest  Gothic  structures  in  the  coun- 
try. 

Rottenburg,  an  old  town  containing  6200 
inhabitants;  admirably  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Neckar.  Hotel,  Gollener 
Hirsch.  It  is  connected  with  its  suburb 
Ehingen  by  a  bridge.  The  town  is  the  seat 
of  a  Catholic  bishop.  The  church  of  St. 
Martin  is  the  principal  building.  The 
Bischofshof  contains  a  collection  of  Roman 
antiquities. 

Roll  well  contains  5200  inhabitants.  It 
is  still  surrounded  by  walls  and  towers. 
It  was  a  free  city  of  the  empire  up  to  1802. 
The  handsome  church  of  the  Holy  Cross, 
lately  restored,  dates  from  the  12th  cen- 
tury. 

Tuttlinyen,  a.  town  of  7200  inhabitants, 
was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1803.  Hotel, 
Post.  Commanding  the  town  are  the  ruins 
of  the  castle  of  llornburg. 

Immendingen,  whence  Schaffhausen  is 
reached  in  1  h.  26  m. 

Schaffhausen.    See  Index. 


ROUTE  No.  180. 

Stuttgart  to  Heidelberg,  via  Heilbronn. 
Time,  5  h.  38  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  10  marks; 
second  class,  6  marks. 

The  express  route  to  Heidelberg  is  via 
Bruchsal  Junction  in  3  h.  3  m. ;  fare,  10 
marks  30  pf.  and  7  marks  25  pf. 

Bietiykeim  junction;  the  line  to  Bruch- 
sal here  turns  to  the  left. 

Heilbronn,  beautifully  situated  on  both 
banks  of  the  Neckar.  Eisenbahn  Hotel,  at 
the  station.  Up  to  the  commencement  of 
the  present  century  it  retained  its  privi- 
leges as  a  free  city  of  the  empire.  It  now 
contains  19,000  inhabitants,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  important  commercial  towns  in 
"VVurtemberg.  A  handsome  promenade 
has  taken  the  place  of  the  former  ramparts, 
which  separate  the  old  town  from  its  sub- 
urbs. 

The  principal  building  is  the  church  of 
St.  Kilian,  built  in  the  old  German  style, 
and  founded  in  the  13th  century.  The 
670 


STRASBCKG. 

altar-piece  is  a  fine  example  of  painting 
and  sculpture  combined.  It  represents 
the  Birth  of  Christ  with  the  Resurrection 
and  the  Death  of  the  Virgin.  There  are 
several  fine  monuments  in  the  church.  In 
the  square  tower  is  a  massive  bell,  which 
was  cast  in  1479 ;  it  tolls  every  day  at 
noon.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  church  is  the 
"Holy  Spring,"  to  which  the  town  owes 
its  origin. 

In  the  church  of  St.  Xichotat,  in  1525, 
the  first  Protestant  service  was  performed. 
The  Rathhuus  dates  from  the  middle  of  the 
16th  century. 

In  a  high  square  tower  on  the  banks  of 
the  Neckar,  called  Gutzens  Thurm,  Goethe 
represents  the  celebrated  G<">tz  n»i  Jl<  /•//<•//- 
iagen,  the  knight  of  the  "iron  hand,"  to 
have  died. 

Steamers  daily  to  Heidelberg  on  the 
Neckar  in  7  hours. 

Trains  several  times  daily  from  Heil- 
bronn to  Hall  in  2  hours.  There  are  some 
salt-mines  here. 

Several  unimportant  stations  are  passed, 
then  Heidelberg ;  for  description,  see  Route 
No.  184. 


ROUTE  No.  181. 

Strasburg  to  Basle  and  Constance,  via 
Freiburg.  Time,  3  h.  38  m. ;  fare,  11  marks 
35  pf. 

Strasburg  to  Bask,  via  Muhlhausen  (ex- 
press, Route  183).  Time,  2  h.  59  m. ;  fare, 
13  marks  10  pf. 

Basle  to  Constance,  via  Schaffhausen  and 
Singen.  Time,  4  h.  38  m. ;  fare,  14  fr.  50  c. 

Strasburg  (formerly  the  chief  city  in 
the  old  department  Du  bus  Rhin,  France ; 
since  its  capture  by  Germany  during  the 
last  war  the  principal  city  of  the  Ger- 
man provinces  of  Alsace  and  Lorraine  ;  the 
residence  of  the  commandant-general  of  the 
15th  army  corps  of  German}-)  contains  104,- 
501  inhabitants.  Principal  hotels,  and  the 
three  best  in  the  cit}-,  are  the  National,  the 
Pa>~is,  and  the  cT  Angleterre.  The  National 
is  an  elegant  modern  house,  on  the  square 
opposite  the  station.  Strasburg,  although 
of  late  belonging  to  France,  is  essentially  a 
German  town,  both  in  appearance  and  in 
the  language  and  costume  of  the  lower  or- 
ders, few  of  whom  speak  French,  although 
until  lately  it  was  taught  in  all  the  public 
schools.  It  is  situated  about  1J  miles  from 


ST  R  A 


- 


Harpe 


O  U  R  G 


SHirrr  Ir  Km, 

JO  .tf/Kwv  If 

31  /I 
t-t,'      32  fl.ttr <{u  flui 

33  Hatr  ,b  .fonts'  &.<'*. 

Him-  3t  /«,„•  f'utl,-mliei\i          'A  .>'/.)/<»/.(.. 


(1  -  Book 


STRASBURG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


STRASDURG. 


the  Rhine,  which  is  crossed  here  by  a 
bridge  of  bouts.  It  was  licsicjrc.il  ami  tak- 
en by  Louis  XIV.  in  I<M,  since  which 
time  it  belonged  to  the  French  up  to  1*71, 
when  it  was  annexed  to  Ger.nany.  It  is 
considered  one  of  the  r-trnii^st  fortresses 
in  Europe,  and  opposed  a  desperate  resist- 
ance to  the  German  troops.  It  was  bom- 
barded from  the  18th  of  August  until  the 
'.'Ttli  of  September,  when  it  surrendered. 
In  addition  to  its  fortifications,  there  are 
sluices  constructed  by  Vauban,  which, 
when  opened,  will  flood  the  country  for 
miles  around.  The  arsenal,  when  in  pos- 
session of  the  French,  contained  1000  pieces 
of  cannon,  and  anus  far  150,000  men.  The 
piles  of  Strasburg  are  closed  at  10  o'clock 
in  summer  and  8  o'clock  in  winter,  but 
travelers  are  generally  admitted  at  all 
times. 

The  principal  object  of  interest,  and  the 
one  to  which  travelers  first  resort  after 
tlieir  arrival,  is  the  Ctithtdml,  or  ,!/«/*>•/</•. 
This  masterpiece  of  architecture  is  the 
work  of  Erwin  of  Steinbacli,  and  continued 
after  his  death  by  his  son  and  daughter 
Sabina  :  it  was  begun  in  1277,  and  finish- 
ed in  1601;  John  Hultz.  of  Cologne,  com- 
pleted the  work.  Its  spire  is  remarkable 
for  being  the  highest  in  tin-  n-nrlil,  standing 
468  feet  above  the  level  of  the  cathedral 
floor :  it  is  25  feet  higher  than  the  Pyramid 
of  Cheops  at  Cairo,  although  the  pyramid 
must  have  been  about  the  same  height, 
but  has  been  worn  away  by  the  action  of 
the  elements,  the  surface  of  its  top  being 
now  about  15  feet  in  diameter.  The  view 
from  the  top  of  the  spire  is  most  grand : 
the  windings  of  the  Rhine,  the  Vosges 
Mountains  of  France,  and  the  Black  For- 
est of  Germany — the  scene  of  so  many  his- 
torical romances.  A  bird's-eye  view  of 
the  whole  panorama  will  well  reward  the 
adventurous  sight-seer  —  adventurous,  be- 
cause the  ascent  can  not  be  made  without 
some  (Linger,  and  requires  considerable 
nerve  and  steadiness  of  head.  The  stone- 
work is  so  very  open  that,  in  case  of  a  sud- 
ilfii  attack  of  giddiness  or  the  slipping  of 
the  foot,  the  body  might  pass  through  ; 
there  have  been  several  such  cases.  Two 
thirds  of  the  way  up  there  is  a  watchman's 
station,  where  persons  live  to  keep  a  look- 
out for  lires  ;  here  the  visitor's  register  is 
kept,  and  you  can  purchase  prints,  plans, 
and  books  descriptive  of  the  cathedral. 


The  interior  is  rich  in  stained  glass,  but 
the  most  remarkable  object  of  interest  it 
contains  is  its  world-renowned  clock,  in- 
vented three  hundred  years  ago.  It  would 
require  a  volume  to  describe  it.  When 
you  visit  it,  be  particular  to  be  present  at 
12  o'clock  prtdteljh  as  that  is  the  only  time 
during  the  twelve  hours  when  the  cock 
crows,  and  all  the  images,  puppets,  etc., 
are  set  in  motion.  The  old  Episcopal  Pal- 
J  ace  has  been  transformed  into  the  1'iiinr- 
sity,  on  the  second  floor  of  which  a  new  li- 
I  brary  is  rapidly  being  formed. 

The  church  of  tit.  Thomas  should  be  vis- 
ited for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  mon- 
ument of  Marshal  Saxe  by  Pigalle,  erected 
to  the  memory  of  that  hero  by  his  sover- 
eign, Louis  XV.  It  is  considered  one  of 
the  finest  efforts  of  the  chisel.  This  church 
also  contains  two  bodies  in  gla.-s  cases, 
said  to  be  those  of  the  Count  of  Nassau  and 
his  daughter;  the  flesh  and  clothes  have 
been  preserved  in  their  present  state  for 
over  400  years.  The  Public  Library,  which 
formerly  contained  over  100,000  volumes, 
was  rich  in  its  collection  of  early  efforts  in 
the  art  of  printing,  among  which  were  Me- 
telin's  Bible,  printed  in  14(>G,  and  Cicero, 
printed  by  Fust  in  14G5.  This  building 
was  destroyed  by  the  Prussian  bombs  dur- 
ing the  late  siege.  Gutenberg,  to  whom 
a  statue  by  David  has  been  erected  on 
Place  Gutenberg,  made  his  first  attempt 
at  printing  here  in  1435.  On  the  site  of 
the  old  Prefecture,  in  the  middle  of  the 
14th  century.  2<)00  Jews  were  burned  to 
death,  accused  of  having  poisoned  the  fount- 
ains and  wells,  which  gave  rise  to  the 
plague  which  at  that  time  desolated  the  city. 

The  J'lace  ttrnglie,  constructed  by  Ma- 
r6chal  Broglie  in  1740,  is  the  most  animated 
portion  of  the  town.  It  contains  the  new 
theatre  and  the  best  cafes.  A  military 
band  plays  here  twice  a  week  in  the  even- 
ings. The  old  Prefecture  is  in  front  of  tho 
theatre ;  near  it  is  the  bronze  statue  erect- 
ed to  the  Marquis  de  Lezay-Marnesia,  a 
former  prefect. 

On  l'l< tee  Kleber  stands  a  bronze  statue 
of  that  famous  general,  who  was  born  hero 
in  17.~>.",,  and  assassinated  in  1800  by  a  Turk 
at  ( 'aim.  The  statue  is  by  Grass. 

Strusburg  is   noted  for  the   celebrated 

/'lit,'*  defois gras,  made  from  the  livers  of 

geese.     They  are  fed   in  such  a  manner 

that  the  liver  grows  to  an  unnatural  size ; 

671 


STRASBCKG. 

it  often  weighs  three  pounds   when  the 
goose  is  killed. 


The  memorable  siege  of  Strasburg  by 
the  Prussians,  and  its  heroic  resistance, 
only  equaled  by  that  of  Paris,  well  deserve 
a  few  lines. 

On  the  8th  of  August  a  German  officer 
appeared  with  a  white  flag  before  the  city, 
and  summoned  the  commandant,  General 
Uhrich,  to  surrender,  threatening  a  bom- 
bardment in  case  of  refusal.  This  request 
was  peremptorily  denied,  notwithstanding 
that  the  town  was  by  no  means  in  a  state 
of  defense,  most  of  the  garrison  having 
been  withdrawn  from  the  town  by  Mar- 
shal McMahon.  On  the  19th  of  August 
the  bombardment  commenced,  from  which 
time  it  continued  almost  without  interrup- 
tion until  the  surrender  of  the  city  on  the 
28th  of  September,  1870.  Among  the  prin- 
cipal buildings  destroyed  were  the  Bank 
of  France,  the  Public  Library,  the  Museum 
of  Painting,  the  Theatre,  the  Prefecture, 
the  Arsenal,  the  Palace  of  Justice,  several 
churches,  and  part  of  the  roof  and  the  or- 
gan of  the  Cathedral.  Whole  streets  were 
devastated,  and  the  citadel  was  literally  a 
mass  of  ruins. 

On  the  llth  of  September,  a  delegation 
sent  by  the  Swiss,  offering  an  asylum  to 
the  women  and  children  of  Strasburg,  en- 
tered the  city,  and  on  the  15th  500  persons, 
and  on  the  17th  568  persons  —  old  men, 
women,  and  children — passed  the  Prussian 
lines  on  their  way  to  Switzerland,  where 
every  comfort  was  afforded1  them. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


VlLLINGEN. 


There  are  one  or  two  excursions  in  the 
vicinity  of  Strasburg,  viz.,  that  to  Mount 
Saint  Odile,  where  is  situated  the  celebrated 
convent  of  the  same  name ;  and  that  to 
Savernf,  a  town  of  6500  inhabitants,  where 
there  is  a  handsome  castle.  The  town  is 
commanded  by  the  ruins  of  the  old  fortress 
of  Greifenstfin. 
672 


Kehl  stands  opposite  Strasburg  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Rhine.  It  was  from  this 
point  that  Strasburg  was  bombarded  dur- 
ing the  French  war.  The  batteries  were 
placed  in  such  a  manner  that  they  were 
out  of  sight  of  the  French,  communication 
being  carried  on  by  telegraph  from  an  of- 
ficer on  a  distant  steeple  to  the  forces  in 
the  trenches. 

Kehl  suffered  much  during  the  last  war, 
but  it  was  used  to  it,  as  it  has  been  bom- 
barded and  razed  a  dozen  times  by  French 
armies  when  crossing  the  Rhine.  It  now 
contains  some  2200  inhabitants. 

At  ApjH/tu-tier  junction  carriages  are 
changed  when  going  to  Basle;  distance 
45  minutes  from  Strasburg.  On  the  left 
notice  the  old  castle  of  Stanfenberg,  which 
dates  from  the  llth  century. 

Offenbury  junction.  Hotel,  Fortuna. 
This  town  is  finely  situated  at  the  entrance 
to  the  valley  of  Kinzig,  in  the  Grand-Duchy 
of  Baden.  It  contains  5300  inhabitants. 
There  is  a  statue  erected  here  to  Sir  Fran- 
cis Drake,  the  celebrated  English  admiral, 
who  introduced  the  potato  into  Europe 
from  Santa  Fe,  Mexico. 

\_0jfenburg  to  Constance,  via  Triberg,  Vil- 
lingen,  Immending,  and  Singen,  in  4  h.  55  m. 
(direct  route  and  express) ;  fare,  14  m.  40  pf. ; 
distance,  180  kil. 

Passing  Ortenberg,  with  the  Gothic  chateau 
of  the  Russian  Baron  Berkholz  ;  Ilausach, 
with  the  ruined  castle  of  Fiirstenberg, 
whence  to  Wolfach'm  25  m.;  through  beau- 
tiful scenerj',  especially  on  the  right  to  Horn- 
berg,  situated  on  a.height  surmounted  by  an 
old  donjon  keep,  to 

Triberg.  This  is  a  much -frequented  sum- 
mer spot,  and  the  centre  of  the  clock  indus- 
try. The  falls,  in  seven  stages,  over  a  gran- 
ite rock  550  feet  high,  are  among  the  finest 
in  Germany.  The  principal  hotel  is  the 
Foret  Noire,  in  a  very  fine  situation  near 
i  the  falls.  To  Constance,  3  h.  20  m. ;  to  Of- 
fmburg,  1  h.  15  m.  Passing  Villingen  (COOO 
inhabitants),  Neudingen,  Geisengen,  and 

Immeiiding,  whence  are  seen  the  exten- 
sive ruins  of  llochlurg  castle,  and  whence  a 
branch  line  leads  to  Stuttgart,  we  pass  Hat- 
tingen,  Emmcn,  Welschingen,  and  Muhlhuu- 
sen,  and  arrive  at 

Xlnije.i ; — to  Constance,  50  m. ;  2  marks; 
30  kil. ;— to  Basle,  4  h.  5  m. ;  10  marks, 
20  pf. ;  115  kil.  • 

Constance,  see  below.] 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


CONSTANCE. 


Before  arriving  at  Freiburg  the  station 
Denzlinfjtn  is  passed,  near  which  is  the  town 
of  It  Hldkirch,  with  its  ruins  of  the  castle  of 
Ktistrrlterg  close  by.  As  the  train  arrives 
at  Freiburg,  the  ruined  castle  of  the  counts 
of  Ziihringetij  founders  of  the  Grand-Duchy 
of  Ruli'ii.  is  |i 

Freibury  (/{tidi.n)  contains  24,600  inhab- 
itants. The  town  is  prettily  situated  on 
the  outskirts  of  the  Black  Forest.  The 
best  hotel,  and  the  only  good  one,  opposite 
the  railway  station,  is  the  Hotel  Sommer 
Ziihringerhof.  It  has  been  recently  much 
enlarged,  contains  reading,  billiard,  and 
bath  rooms,  and  possesses  a  large  garden ; 
the  whole  is  under  the  admirable  manage- 
ment of  the  proprietors,  the  Messrs.  Sommer. 

The  principal  object  of  attraction  in  Frei- 
burg is  the  Maltster,  or  Cdt/u-ilnil,  univer- 
sally admired  for  its  beautiful  proportions 
and  the  chasteness  of  its  decorations.  It 
was  commenced  in  1122,  and  finished  in 
1513. 

The  western  tower,  about  the  only  one 
ever  finished  in  Germany,  is  394  feet  high. 
It  is  surmounted  by  a  spire  of  most  exqui- 
site work  and  proportions.  Tha  principal 
entrance  is  decorated  with  sculpture  of 
great  beauty  and  richness.  Its  interior 
dimensions  are:  length,  338  feet;  breadth, 
100  feet;  and  height  91  feet.  The  church 
can  lie  seen  from  10.30  A.M.  to  7  P.M. ;  18 
kr.  fee  to  the  custodian. 

The  interior  contains  a  monument  of 
Berthold  V.,  the  last  duke  of  Zahringen, 
erected  1228  ;  a  beautifully  carved  pulpit ; 
and  a  remarkable  work,  consisting  of  thir- 
teen carved  figures,  representing  the  Last 
Supper.  The  stained  -  glass  windows  are 
very  beautiful. 

Notice  the  painting  over  the  high-altar 
by  (,'riiit.  The  ("niversity  chapel  contains 
two  pictures  by  llnliidii. 

The   University  contains   300  students, 


mostly  natives  of  Baden.  There  is  an  An,- 
atomicul  Museum  attached  to  the  Univer- 
sity. 

In  front  of  the  University  stands  a  mon- 
ument erected  to  the  memory  of  a  Fran- 
ciscan friar,  Bertkold  ScittOQn,  who,  it  is 
asserted,  first  invented  gunpowder  here  in 
1340. 

There  are  three  handsome  fountains  in 
the  Kaiserstrasse :  one  adorned  with  statues 
of  knights  and  saints,  another  erected  in 
1807  in  honor  of  the  Grand-Duke  Charles 
Frederick,  and  the  third  with  a  statue  of 
Archduke  Albert,  founder  of  the  Superior 
School.  This  last  is  of  recent  construc- 
tion. 

The  Kauf  haus,  near  the  Cathedral,  is  a 
curious  old  Gothic  building. 

[A  branch  railway  leads  to  the  old  im- 
portant fortress  of  A  //-/!/•<  /.<<!<•//,  situated  on 
a  high  rock  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  and 
at  one  time  the  key  of  German}'  in  the  west. 

At  Muhlhtim  station  there  is  a  diligence 
four  times  each  day  to  the  Baths  of  Hd<l<  n- 
tftiler.  These  baths  were  known  to  the 
Romans,  and  those  erected  by  them  were 
discovered  in  1748  ;  they  consist  of  swim- 
ming-bath, vapor-bath,  etc.,  in  all  twelve 
baths,  and  are  regarded  as  the  most  perfect 
west  of  Rome.  There  is  a  fine  Kur.iaal, 
with  a  small  park.  The  excursions  are 
numerous  in  the  vicinity,  among  which  is 
the  ascent  of  the  Blawn,  which  can  be 
made  in  two  hours  from  Badenweiler. 
There  is  a  lovely  view  of  the  district  from 
Sopkienruhc,  distance  twenty  minutes  from 
the  baths.] 

Passing  Schliengen  station,  where  the 
Archduke  Charles  was  defeated  by  the 
French  under  Morcau  in  179(j,  we  arrive  at 

Basle.  For  description,  see  Index,  Vol. 
III. 

From  Basle  the  train  passes  through 
Swiss  territory  nearly  to  Constance.  Time, 
4  h.  38  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  14  fr.  50  c. ; 
second  class,  9  fr.  65  c. 

Constance  is  a  very  ancient  city,  but  its 
population  has  become  considerably  re- 
duced. It  now  contains  10,250  inhab- 
itants. Although  situated  on  the  Swiss 
side  of  the  lake,  it  belongs  to  the  Duchy 
of  Baden,  having  been  ceded  by  Austria  in 
1805.  Hold  Constanzc.rhof, 


673 


CONSTANCE. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


CONSTANCE. 


The  Cathedral,  or  Munster,  of  Constance 
is  -A  fine  Gothic  structure,  founded  in  1048; 
•was  rebuilt  at  the  commencement  of  the 
16th  century.  It  was  in  this  cathedral 
that  John  Huss  was  condemned.  Robert 
Hallam,  bishop  of  Salisbury,  president  of 
the  English  delegation  which  condemned 
him  to  be  burned,  is  buried  in  front  of  the 
high-altar  The  place  is  pointed  out  by  a 
brass  plate  where  II  uss  stood  when  receiv- 
ing the  sentence.  Notice  the  bas-reliefs 
on  the  doors  of  the  principal  entrance. 
There  are  twenty  compartments,  repre- 
senting scenes  in  the  life  of  the  Savior. 
Make  the  ascent  of  the  tower  :  the  view  is 
magnificent.  Examine  the  relics  in  the 
sacristy. 

The'anciont  convent  of  the  Dominicans, 
situated  on  a  small  island  connected  with 
the  town  by  a  bridge,  is  noted  as  the  place 
of  confinement  of  Huss  :  it  is  now  used  as 
a  store-house.  The  SaJle  de  la  Douane, 
erected  in  1388,  contains  numerous  Roman, 
Germanic,  and  Huss  relics  ;  fee  1  fr.  This 
building  is  particularly  interesting  from 
being  the  place  of  meeting  of  the  famous 
Council  of  Constance,  the  object  of  which 
was  to  vindicate  the  authority  of  general 
councils,  to  which  the  Roman  pontiff  was 
declared  to  be  amenable.  The  Council 
first  proceeded  to  dispose  of  three  popes — 
John  XXII.,  Gregory  II.,  and  Benedict  X. 
They  then  elected  Startin  V.,  settling  the 
variances  that  had  disturbed  the  Church 
for  forty  years.  A  dark  blot  will,  howev- 
er, forever  rest  on  the  memory  of  the  Coun- 
cil for  their  treachery  in  arresting  John 
Huss  and  Jerome  of  Prague  after  the  Pres- 
ident of  the  Council,  the  Emperor  Sigis- 
mund,  had  promised  to  give  the  former 
safe-conduct  out  of  the  reach  of  his  ene- 
mies. Huss  was  treacherously  seized,  con- 
demned, and  burned  at  the  stake  on  the  6th 
July,  1415,  and  Jerome  on  the  30th  May 
the  following  year.  The  works  of  Wycliffe 
were  condemned  to  be  burned.  The  Coun- 
674 


oil  consisted  of  over  400  of  the  greatest 
magnates  and  scholars  of  the  Continent,  in- 
cluding emperors,  popes,  cardinals,  bish- 
ops, and  archbishops.  The  sittings  con- 
tinued four  years,  from  1414  to  1418.  The 
place  where  Huss  suffered  martyrdom,  a 
short  distance  from  the  city,  is  still  point- 
ed out;  also  the  house  in  Paulsstrasse  in 
which  he  lodged,  and  which  contains  a 
likeness  of  this  celebrated  theologian  in  re- 
lief on  the  wall.  In  the  old  building,  now 
the  Cafe  Jiarbaro  sa,  the  Emperor  Fried- 
rich  concluded  peace  with  the  Lombard 
cities  in  1183. 

Boats  leave  Constance  for  Friedrichs- 
hafen.  Time,  1  hour ;  fare,  3  marks  8  kr. 
To  Romanshorn  ;  time,  1  hour.  To  Lin- 
dau,  1  h.  30  m.  (This  is  the  most  direct 
route  to  Munich.  Time,  4  hours.  To 
Rorschach,  2  h.  30  m.) 

Lake  Constance  is  the  largest  of  the 
German  lakes,  thirty-five  miles  long  by 
eight  wide.  At  its  greatest  depth  it  is 
nearly  one  thousand  feet  deep.  The  Rhine 
enters  it  at  the  southwest,  and  issues  from 
it  at  the  northwest.  Its  banks  are  noted 
for  their  great  fertility,  abounding  in  vine- 
yards, corn-fields,  and  orchards,  with  hand- 
some villas  and  smiling  villages. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  to  the  inl- 
and of  Meinau,  four  miles  from  Constance. 
The  house  was  once  the  property  of  the 
knights  of  the  Teutonic  Ovder.  Steamers 
every  few  hours.  Another  excursion  is 
that  to  the  island  nf  Reichenaii,  noted  for 
its  monastery,  founded  by  Charlemagne, 
some  portions  of  which  still  exist. 

Constance  to  Paris,  via  Bel  fort.  Time, 
17  h.  12  nj. ;  fare,  first  class,  63  marks  5  pf. 

Constance,  to  Schaffkuusen.  Time,  1  h. 
27  m. ;  fare,  4  marks. 


ROUTE  No.  182. 

Strasburg  to  Cologne,  via  Forbach  and 
Mi-tz,  Saarbntck,  Treves,  Hillesheim,  and 
Duren  (excursion). 


HAGENAU. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


WORTH. 


From  Strusburrj  to  Fofb<ich,  time  5J-  hrs. ; ' 
and  from  Forbach  to  ^fe/z,  1  Ii.  12  in. 

ll,nj>i,'i'i  (Hotel,  P'St)  contains  ll,2.r>0 
inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  River 
Mulrr,  and  was  at  one  tune  a  free  city  of 
the  (iernian  Empire,  afterward  one  of  the 
principal  French  towns  of  the  department 
of  tlio  15as  Khin,  and  became  again  German 
after  the  late  French  war.  There  are  few 
relics  existing  of  its  antiquity.  Richard 
Cceur  de  Lion  was  here  confined  l>y  the  Em- 
peror Henry  VI.  The  church  of  St. George 
is  the  principal  building ;  it  dates  from  the 
12th  century  (42  minutes  to  Strasburg). 

[A  line  of  railway  branches  off  to  the 
right  to  Mannheim,  passing  through  the 
towns  of  WuHuA*r$  and  Xnittmlt. 

\\'i-i.-i*riilmrij,  an  old  walled  town  sit- 
uated on  the  Lauter,  formerly  belonging 
to  the  province  of  Alsace,  but  now  an- 
nexed to  Germany.  It  contains  7000  in- 
habitants. Hotel,  EnyfJ. 

About  three  miles  southeast  of  this  town 
is 

Geisberg,  where  one  of  the  first  battles 
of  the  late  Franco-German  war  took  place, 
August  4,  INTO.  Here  the  brave  General 
Douay  was  killed,  after  struggling  for  an 
entire  day,  outnumbered  ten  to  one — De 
Failly's  division  being  10,000,  and  that  of 
the  crown  -  prince  100,000,  two  Prussian 
and  one  Bavarian  army  corps.  General 
Douay's  tomb  is  in  the  fyiedkofobmeteay, 
near  the  hattle-lield.  (The  first  fight  took 
place  at  Saarbruck,  30th  of  July,  when 
the  French  attacked  that  town  and  were 
repulsed;  the  attack  was  renewed  August 
2,  and  the  town  taken.) 

At  Winden  station  there  is  a  branch  line 
six  miles  to  the,  west.  Here  lies  the  old 
town  of  Rergzabern,  containing  a  fine  old 
castle.  Hotel,  Rossle.  This  is  a  good  point 
of  departure  for  excursions  in  the  Vosges.  ! 

I.nnddu. — This  town  is  finely  situated  on 
the  Queich,  and  contains  7000  inhabitants 
and  :iOOO  troops.  Hotels.  I 'faker  If  of  And 
•svAHv/71..  It  was  fortified  at  a  very  early 
•late,  besieged  and  taken  seven  times  dur- 
ing the  Seven-years'  \Var  ;  taken  from 
the  German  Empire  by  Louis  XIV.,  and  i 
fortified  by  Vauban  in  1688.  It  was  cap- 
tured by  the  Margrave  Lewis  of  Baden  in 
170'J,  but  remained  a  French  town  from 
the  Peace  of  Rastadt,  in  1714,  to  1814. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  from 
Landau  to  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Ma- 


denburff,  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689  ; 
the  distance  two  and  a  half  hours,  and  the 
view  one  of  the  finest  in  the  country. 

A  branch  railway  leads  from  Landau 
to 

Anniceiler  (time,  40  minutes ;  hotels,  Ro- 
ther  Ochse  and  Tri'fels),  a  small  town  of  2700 
inhabitants,  mostly  known  as  the  nearest 
point  to  the  famous  ruined  cast'e  ofTriffeJs, 
where  Richard  Coeur  dc  Lion,  king  of  En- 
gland was  confined  by  the  Emperor  Henry 
VI.  for  two  years,  1192-1294.  Returning 
from  the  Crusades,  which  he  had  undertaken 
in  conjunction  with  Philip  Augustus,  king 
of  France,  and  the  Emperor  Barbarossa, 
he  was  thrown  on  the  coast  of  Dalmatia, 
and  in  traversing  the  territory  of  the  Duke 
of  Austria,  was  seized  by  that  enemy  and 
imprisoned  in  Diirenstein,  near  Krems. 
He  was  afterwards  sold  by  Duke  Leopold 
to  the  Emperor  Henry  "VI.  for  30,000 
marks,  by  whom  he  was  brought  in  chains 
before  the  Diet  at  Hagenau  to  answer  the 
charge  of  murder.  Proving  his  innocence, 
his  chains  were  removed ;  but  his  liberty 
was  only  restored  by  the  payment  of 
250,000  marks  of  silver  to  the  emperor. 
It  is  said  that  the  minstrel  Blondel  dis- 
covered here  the  place  of  the  king's  con- 
finement.] 

The  line  continues  on  through  Xeustadt 
and  Worms  to  Mayence.  See  route  from 
Saarbruck  to  Mayence. 

Passing  through  the  forest  of  Hagenau 
and  several  unimportant  stations,  that  of 

\\~i'>r1h  is  reached.  This  small  village 
of  1200  inhabitants  is  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Sauer  and  Salzach.  Hotel, 
Clunil  ft' Or.  It  is  now  principally  noted 
for  the  battle  fought  there  on  the  (!th  of 
August  between  the  large  army  of  the 
crown  -  prince,  numbering  140,000  men, 
augmented  by  another  Bavarian  corps  and 
the  Wilrtemberg  legion,  and  the  retreating 
division  of  General  Donay  (beaten  Augu.-t 
4)  and  the  residue  ofMardchal  Mat-Main  >n'< 
corps,  which,  according  to  his  report, 
numbered  35,000  men,  where  the  French 
were  again  outnumbered  four  to  one. 
The  tree  under  which  MacMahon  stood 
during  a  portion  of  the  fight  is  pointed 
out,  only  half  a  mile  from  the  town. 
Nearly  all  the  personal  staff  of  MacMahon 
were  killed  ;  he  himself  had  been  in  the 
saddle  fifteen  hours  ;  and  there  was  no  am- 
munition left  after  three  o'clock. 
075 


FKOSCHWEILER. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


NEUKIRCHEN. 


Reichshofen  station  is  five  miles  from  the 
town  of 

Froschwei'er,  the  centre  of  MacMahon's 
position  during  the  battle  of  Worth.  It 
was  completely  destroyed  during  the  fight, 
but  has  since  been  rebuilt. 

Niederbronn  (Hotel,  Vuuxkalt),  a  place  of 
annual  resort  during  the  summer  months  [ 
on  account  of  its   mineral   waters,  which 
were  known  to  the  Romans. 

On  the  right,  after  leaving  Niederbronn, 
notice  on  the  heights  the  ruins  of  the 
castle  of  Falkensteia.  Ten  miles  farther 
and  the  celebrated  stronghold  of  Bitch  is 
reached.  This  fortress  is  situated  on  a 
steep  rock  of  red  sandstone.  The  citadel 
was  constructed  by  Vauban  in  1679;  and 
although  the  town  was  reduced  to  ashes,  and 
the  barracks  and  other  buildings  burned 
after  a  long  bombardment,  commenced  on  | 
August  8,  it  never  was  taken,  and  was 
only  delivered  up  to  Germany  by  the 
Treaty  of  Frankfort. 

[Discontinuing  the  Route  No.  182,  and 
turning  west,  visiting  Metz  and  Forbach, 
then  crossing  Route  No.  182,  the  traveler 
can  proceed  east  through  Mannheim  and 
Worms  to  Mayence. 

Metz  was  formerly  one  of  the  strongest  for- 
tresses belonging  to  France,  and  the  capital 
of  the  department  of  the  Moselle  ;  it  is  now 
the  capital  of  German  Lorraine.  Hotel :  de 
I' Europe,  a  large,  first-class  house,  newly  re- 
stored. It  was  at  one  time  a  free  city  of  the ; 
German  Empire.  It  is  situated  on  the  Mo- 
selle, and  contains  a  population  of  54.817.  It 
possesses  a  fine  cathedral, partof  which  dates 
from  the  14th  century.  The  whole  church 
was  restored  in  1830-1835.  The  steeple  is  j 
385  feet  high,  from  which  the  visitor  has  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  surrounding  forts 
and  battle-fields.  On  the  Place  d'Armes 
there  is  a  statue  to  Jfarechnl  Fabert,  dis- 
tinguished in  the  wai-s  of  Louis  XIV. 
The  church  of  $t.  Vincent  is  a  fine  Gothic 
structure,  dating  from  the  13th  century. 
The  church  of  St.  Euchaise  dates  from  the 
12th  century.  In  the  Place  Eoynh  stands 
the  bronze  statue  of  Marechal  Ney,  who 
was  born  at  Metz.  It  was  erected  in  1861, 
and  contains  the  simple  name  "Ney." 
He  was  shot  in  Paris  December  7, 1815. 

At  the  southwest  of  the  city  there  is  a 
handsome  Esplanade,  near  which  is  the 
great  Caserne  Emperor  William. 

The  town  contains  also  a  large  arsenal, 
676 


with  a  cannon-foundry,  and  a  military  hos- 
pital. The  fortifications  were  planned  by 
Vauban.  The  most  important  works  are 
the  forts  of  Belle  Croix  and  La  Double 
Couronne;  also  a  redoubt  called  Le  Pate, 
which  may  be  converted  into  an  island.  It 
was  besieged  in  1552  during  ten  months 
by  the  Emperor  Charles  V.,  who  was  final- 
ly obliged  to  raise  the  siege,  when  it  was 
ceded  to  France  with  Toul  and  Verdun. 
Until  the  late  war  it  has  borne  the  nama 
of  the  Virgin  Fortress;  but  on  the  'J7th  of 
October,  1«70,  it  capitulated :  3  marshals 
of  France,  C6  generals,  6000  officers,  and 
173,000  troops  surrendered  themselves  pris- 
oners of  war.  The  whole  army  was  under 
the  command  of  Marshal  Bazaine,  who  was 
tried  by  a  court-martial  in  1873,  sitting  at 
the  Grand  Trianon,  under  the  presidency 
of  the  Due  d'Aumale,  and  sentenced  to  be 
degraded  and  shot,  for  not  having  done  all 
that  duty  and  honor  required.  The  court, 
however,  recommended  him  to  the  clem- 
ency of  the  president,  and  Marshal  Mac- 
Mahon  commuted  his  sentence  to  impris- 
onment for  twenty  years.  The  Peace  of 
1871  incorporated  the  fortress  with  the  new 
German  empire. 

Four  miles  from  Metz  is  Grai'elutte, 
which  will  forever  remain  an  object  of 
great  historical  importance,  on  account  of 
the  bloody  deeds  it  saw  on  the  16th  and 
18th  of  August,  1870.  Opposite  the  hotel 
Chfnal  d'Or  stands  the  house  where  Na- 
poleon III.  and  the  prince  imperial  slept 
August  16th.  Here  the  King  of  Prussia 
lost  20,000  men  in  his  attempt  to  stop  Ba- 
zaine's  retreat  on  Verdun. 

The  battle  of  Vionville  was  fought  on  the 
16th,  and  that  of  Gravelotte  on  the  18th. 
The  French,  in  both  battles,  were  out- 
numbered by  114,000  men.  Xo  colors, 
guns,  or  prisoners  were  taken  in  either 
fight.  The  French  had  110,000,  and  the 
Germans  190,000  infantry  and  24,000  cav- 
alry. An  excursion  should  be  made  past 
the  fort  St.  Privat  to  the  Chateau  Frascati, 
where  the  capitulation  of  Metz  was  signed. 

Forbach. — A  busy  manufacturing  town, 
and  before  the  war  the  seat  of  the  French 
custom-house. 

Neulirchen  junction,  whence  the  direct 
line  to  Mayence  proceeds  northeast  through 
Oberstein,  and  the  line  to  Mannheim  east 
through  Neustadt. 

From  Neukirchen  to  Neustadt.     Time,  2 


M 


1   yfcf 

2 

3    Jhlats  tt*  Justice 


G  Jardin  dAi  FLz 

7  March*  Gni 

8  Th*atn> 

9  Xoptiat  S*2fi 

10  /LJpiia.1  Bon  secvurs 

U.  Prison 
12 

13  J&tfui/actur?  dtxf  Tabatzr 


r* 

S*.  Svniphowem\\ 
X 


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««<«,to/w. 


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-^i. 


IB  Mr  d  '.-trtijbrtr 

17  Castfnr  d'JrtiUmi* 

18  Gttrfvtf  Ju  i'fritf 

1  9  .1n*nal  du  dtnie 

20  Jrxmal  Jria  Otadeilr 

21 


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f  ~  _  37  A'emiaaiiv 

,  ^f^-J^/J  £  S8  Temptr  i 

Mja^^//  39  .Vy. 


Book 


ZWEIBRUCKEX. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


SAABBRUCK. 


hours.  Passing  Hamburg,  a  fortress  cele- 
brated in  tin-  Thirty-years'  War,  whence 
there  is  a  branch  line  to 

Zirdbriicken,  former!}'  the  capital  of  the 
Duchy  of  Zweibriicken,  and  the  seat  of  its 
dukes. 

LanJstuhl. — The  former  residence  of  the 
counts  of  Sickingen,  whose  ruined  castle 
commands  the  town. 

Kniferslaittent.—A  busy  town  of  18,000 
inhabitants.  Hotel,  Schwan.  A  prison 
now  occupies  the  old  castle  built  by  the 
Emperor  Barbarossa.  There  are  a  number 
of  iron  and  woolen  manufactories  in  the 
town. 

At  Neustadt  junction  (Hotel,  Lowe), 
situated  in  a  charming  position,  the  di- 
rect line  from  Strasburg  passes  through 
the  town. 

Tin-re  is  a  small  branch  line,  in  45  min- 
utes, to  Durkhtim,  a  small  town  of  7000 
inhabitants,  and  much  frequented  in  the 
autumn  for  the  grajie-eure. 

Lu<{iri;;*/<'i/'<  a  (Hotel,  Deutsche*  Huns), 
containing  TiT.OO  inhabitants,  formerly  one 
of  the  um-k'iit  fortresses  of  Mannheim,  and 
daily  becoming,  since  the  erection  of  its 
port,  of  more  importance.  Travelers  for 
lleidelberg  here  change  ears. 

Worms  (Hotel,  Alter  Kaiser),  situated 
51  minutes  by  rail  from  Mayence.  It 
contains  11,000  inhabitants,  and  was  al- 
most entirely  destroyed  in  1689  by  the 
French  under  Melae.  Worms  was  at  one 
time  a  free  imperial  city,  and  the  seat  of 
numerous  Diets,  two  of  which  were  of  much 
importance  in  the  history  of  the  world. 
One,  held  in  1495,  which  abolished  the 
right  of  private  war;  and  the  other  at 
which  Luther  declared  for  the  Reformed 
doctrines. 

The  Cathedral  is  the  finest  building  in 
Worms,  built  in  the  solid  Romanesque 
order.  It  has  two  towers  at  each  end.  It 
was  repaired  in  1860.  It  has  two  choirs 
and  two  altars,  one  for  the  chapter  and 
the  other  for  the  laity.  In  the  chapel  of 
the  Fonts  are  two  fine  tombs  of  the  loth 
century  ;  it  is  ordinarily  closed,  but  a 
small  jiourbnire  will  open  the  door. 

Notice  close  to  the  Cathedral  the  foun- 
dations of  the  Blschofshof,  destroyed  in 
1689  and  179 1.  It  was  here  that  'l.uther 
appeared  before  Charles  V.  and  the  Diet  of 
the  empire,  which  resulted  in  the  latter 
declaring  his  doctrines  to  be  heretical. 
VOL.  II.— G 


On  Lutherplatz  stands  the  fine  monu- 
ment erected  to  the  memory  of  Luther,  the 
last  work  of  the  sculptor  Rietschel,  in- 
augurated  June  25,  1868.  It  is  composed 
of  eight  statues,  in  bronze,  elevated  on  a 
lofty  pedestal  rifty  feet  square.  In  the 
centre  is  Luthar  intent  on  his  Bible,  having 
at  his  feet  his  four  precursors,  viz.,  Wick- 
liffc,  Waldo,  John  Huss,  and  Savonarola. 
At  the  four  corners  are  Frederick  the  Wise, 
Philip  the  Generous,  Melanchthon,  and 
Reuchlin.  Three  females  personify  the 
three  cities  connected  with  the  Reforma- 
tion— Magdeburg,  Augsburg,  and  Spire. 

The  Liebfraiienicirche,  north  of  the  city, 
most  of  which  dates  from  the  15th  century, 
was  restored  in  1868,  and  is  much  fre- 
quented by  pilgrims. 

The  old  Jewish  Synagogue,  which  dates 
from  the  12th  century,  is  well  worth  a 
visit. 

The  country  around  Worms  is  mostly 
the  scene  of  the  old  German  poem,  the 
Nilielungenlied. 

Railway  to  Frankfort,  Heidelberg,  and 
Mannheim.  For  Mayence,  see  Route  No. 
184.J 

Continuing  our  Route  No.  182  we  arrive 
at 

Saarbruck,  finely  situated  on  the  River 

Saar,  which  waters  a  country  abounding 

in  fortresses.    The  town  is  divided  into  two 

i  parts  by  the  river — one  side  is  called  St. 

\  Johann,&nd  the  other  Saarbruck — connected 

j  by  a  bridge,  and  together  containing  17,200 

inhabitants.     Hotels,  Zix  on  one  side,  and 

(jiiepratte  on  the  other. 

The  Schlos<  was  inhabited  up  to  1793 
by  the  princes  of  Nassau-Saarbruck,  and 
its  church  contains  numerous  tombs  of 
members  of  this  family.  The  town  is 
noted  for  its  fine  coal-mines,  which  em- 
ploy some  15,000  workmen. 

At  Saarbruck  the  French  war  opened 
by  an  attack  on  the  town,  July  30,  1870. 
This  was  repulsed  by  the  Germans  ;  but  it 
was  again  renewed  on  the  2d  of  August 
with  success.  It  was  considered  of  the 
greatest  importance  by  Napoleon  to  cap- 
ture this  place,  as  it  commanded  three  lines 
of  railways,  on  which  troops  and  stores 
were  being  rapidly  moved.  The  action 
commenced  between  nine  and  ten  o'clock, 
and  at  one  the  French  had  their  batteries 
planted  in  the  parade-ground.  When  the 
French  had  gained  the  heights  command- 
677 


SAARLOCIS. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


TBEVES. 


ing  the  town,  the  celebrated  mitrailleuses  j 
were  first  posted,  and  with  great  success.  | 
A  detachment  of  German  soldiers  under- 
took to  cross  the  railway  bank,  when  the 
mitrailleuses  fired  at  a  distance  of  nearly 
a  mile.  In  a  moment  the  detachment 
was  dispersed,  leaving  half  its  number  on 
the  field.  A  second  detachment  shared 
the  same  fate.  The  French  were  in  rap- 
tures at  this  success  of  a  weapon  now  first 
tried  in  actual  warfare.  It  was  here  that 
the  prince  imperial  received  his  "  baptism 
of  fire." 

Descending  the  lovely  valley  of  the 
Saar,  and  Saarlouis  is  reached.  This  is 
a  strong  fortress,  belonging  to  Prussia  since 
1815.  It  was  fortified  by  Vauban,  1681, 
in  one  year,  for  the  purpose  of  winning  a 
bet  he  had  made  with  Louis  XIV.  Its 
name  was  changed  during  the  first  French 
Revolution  to  Stirretibre.  It  is  the  birth- 
place of  Marechal  Ney,  whose  family  man- 
sion is  pointed  out.  There  is  an  establish- 
ment of  faience  in  the  vicinity. 

Mettlnch. — Here  is  an  old  Benedictine 
abbey,  founded  in  the  7th  century.  It  is 
now  used  as  a  manufactory  of  faience, 
•which  is  quite  celebrated.  On  the  top  of  a 
rock,  almost  inaccessible,  are  the  ruins  of 
Montclair,  destroyed  in  1350  by  the  Elector 
of  Treves. 

Before  arriving  at  Saarburg,  notice  on 
the  heights  on  the  right-hand  side  the 
chapel  of  Caste1.  Frederick  William  IV.  of 
Prussia  repaired  it  in  1838,  for  the  purpose 
of  burying  the  remains  of  John  of  Bohe- 
mia, the  blind  king,  who  was  killed  at  the 
battle  of  Crecy  in  IHlt',. 

Sunrburg    (Hotel,   Posf),    picturesquely  ; 
situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  valley,  and  : 
commanded  by  the  ruins  of  an   ancient 
castle  belonging  to  the  Elector  of  Treves.  ! 

Treves,  in  Rhenish  Prussia,  contains  a 
population    of   21.84 '.(.      Principal    hotels,  | 
Trierischer  //'_>/'  and    Mnison   Rouge,  both  j 
admirably  conducted.     This  ancient  city  ! 
is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mo-  ' 
selle,  and  has  the  reputation  of  being  the 
oldest  city  in  Germany.     A   colony  was  ; 
established  here  by  the  Emperor  Augustus. 
It  afterward  became  the  capital  of  the  Ro-  ; 
man  Empire  north  of  the  Alps,  and  the  res- 
idence  of  Constantine,  Julian,  Valentinian, 
Theodosius,  and  other  emperors.     Treves 
became  the  residence  and  was  under  the 
rule  of  a  series  of  archbishops  for  one  thou- 
678 


sand  years,  who  were  princes  and  electors 
of  the  German  Empire.  The  last  of  these 
removed  to  Coblentz  in  1786,  since  which 
time  Treves  has  declined  in  importance. 
This  city  contains  a  greater  quantity  of 
Roman  remains  than  any  other  city  in 
Northern  Europe,  more  remarkable,  how- 
ever, for  their  vastness  than  for  the  beauty 
or  purity  of  their  style. 

The  PaltUK  of  the  Electors  occupies  the 
site  of  a  Roman  edifice,  a  part  only  of 
which  remains,  the  rest  having  been  de- 
stroyed to  make  way  for  the  palace.  This 
portion  is  now  called  the  Heathen's  Tower ; 
the  walls  are  ten  feet  in  thickness,  and, 
though  composed  entirely  of  bricks  and 
tiles,  are  without  a  crack  on  the  surface. 
This  was  the  favorite  residence  of  Constan- 
tine. The  palace  to  which  this  building 
was  attached  is  a  handsome  edifice,  now 
used  as  a  barrack.  A  little  in  front  of  the 
palace  are  remains  of  Roman  baths,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  east  of  the  baths,  outside 
the  walls,  is  a  Roman  amphitheatre,  the 
size  of  which  is  234  feet  long  and  155  feet 
broad.  Here  Constantine  entertained  his 
subjects  with  Frankish  sports,  which  con- 
sisted of  exposing  thousands  of  unarmed 
Franks  to  be  torn  to  pieces  by  wild  beasts. 

The  Cathedral  at  Treves  is  supposed  to 
have  been  built  by  the  Empress  Helena, 
mother  of  Constantine,  who  placed  here 
our  Saviour's  coat  without  seam.  Little 
remains  of  the  original  building.  It  is 
supposed  to  have  consisted  of  nine  arches, 
supported  bv  four  granite  pillars  ;  three  of 
these  still  remain,  but  were  walled  up  for 
the  preservation  of  the  building  in  the  llth 
century,  the  fourth  column  having  given 
way.  The  church  contains  several  inter- 
esting monuments  of  the  Electors  of  Treves. 
The  church  of  Xotre  Dame,  or  Llehfmuen- 
kirch",  dates  from  the  13th  century,  and  is 
one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  pure  Gothic 
seen  in  Germany.  The  interior,  in  the 
shape  of  a  Greek  cross,  is  supported  by 
12  elegant  columns,  on  each  of  which  is 
painted  an  apostle.  The  church  was  re- 
stored in  1871.  The  Bariicti,  constructed 
in  the  4th  century,  formerly  the  residence 
of  the  bishops,  has  been  transformed  into 
a  Protestant  church. 

To  the  south  of  this  there  are  some  R  >- 
man  Buth*;  five  hundred  yards  from  which 
are  situated  the  ruins  of  a  Roman  amphi- 
theatre, in  the  centre  of  vine-covered  hills. 


THE   RHINE  FROM  BASLE  TO  BADEN 


Hai-por's  Hand -Hook. 


GEROI.STEIX. 


;  I  HP.  EMPIRE  OF  <i  Kit  MANY.] 


COLMAR. 


It  was  capable  of  containing  fiC,  000  persons. 
The  Port  1 1  \it/ra,  or  Black  (iate,  is  one  of 
the  most  interesting  inoiiuments  of  Treves, 
believed  to  have  been  built  during  the 
time  of  Constantino.  In  the  llth  century, 
Simeon  of  Syracuse  made  its  summit  his 
habitation,  in  imitation  of  Simeon  Stylites. 
After  his  death  he  was  enrolled  in  the  cal- 
endar of  saints  ;  the  building  was  conse- 
crated, a  circular  apsis  was  attached  to  one 
end,  thus  forming  three  churches  in  it,  one 
above  another,  where  service  was  regu- 
larly performed.  The  Town  Library  con- 
tains some  95,000  volumes,  with  some  rare 
MSS. 

To  obtain  a  fine  view  of  Treves,  go  up  to 
the  top  of  the  Mariensaule,  a  high  tower 
crowned  by  a  statue  of  the  Virgin. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  to  fgel, 
two  hours  from  Treves,  to  examine  the 
Roman  c  >lumn  nf  ///<•/,  one  of  the  finest 
monuments  west  of  the  Alps. 

The  bridge  over  the  Moselle,  mentioned 
by  Tacitus,  is  believed  to  have  been  found- 
ed in  the  time  of  Augustus.  It  was  blown 
up  by  the  French  during  the  wars  of  Louis 
XIV.,  and  the  piers  of  large  stones  are  the 
only  ancient  parts  remaining:  in, my  of 
thc-c  arc  from  six  to  nine  feet  in  length. 

•HITS  navigate  the  Moselle,  arriving 
and  departing  each  day  from  and  to  Cob- 
lentz  ;  descending  the  river  in  twelve 
hours,  and  ascending  in  thirty-six.  Fare, 
12  marks.  By  rail  to  Coblentz,  time,  2J  h. ; 
— to  Cologne,  time,  4  h.  43  m. ;  fare,  s  marks 
90  pf.  and  14  marks  00  pf.  respectively. 

The  time  from  Treves  to  Diiren  on  the 
Cologne  and  Aix-la-Chapelle  road  is  :;  h. 
48  m.  ;  fare,  first  class,  13  marks  fcO  pf. ; 
second  class,  10  marks  40  pf. 

The  route  passes  by  the  mountains  of 
Eifel,  and  part  of  the  distance  by  the  val- 
ley of  the  Moselle,  passing  Khrung,  where 
it  mounts  through  «  most  picturesque  val- 
ley over  bridges  and  viaducts. 

Kylburg  is  finely  situated  at  the  foot  of 
a  mountain  on  the  banks  of  the  Kyll, 
commanded  by  the  Gothic  church  of  St. 
Thomas. 

G<rolstein. — Hotels,  Post  and  Clemens. 
Picturesquely  situated  on  the  A"////,  and 
commanded  by  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle. 
Numerous  excursions  in  the  Eifel  are 
made  from  this  point ;  also  that  to  Daun, 
in  2  h.  30  m. 

It  id  from  this  town  that  Field-Marshal 


Daun,  who  defeated  Frederick  the  Great 
at  Kolin,  takes  his  name,  although  born  in 
Vienna  in  1705. 

After  passing  numerous  unimportant 
.-tat  ions, 

Ziilpich  is  reached :  this  is  a  small  town 
of  1500  inhabitants.  It  is  surrounded  by 
mediaeval  walls.  In  the  subterranean 
church  under  the  church  of  St.  Peter  it  is 
supposed- that  Clovis,  after  the  battle  of 
Tolbiacum,  was  baptized,  after  adopting 
the  Christian  religion. 

Diiren.     See  Route  No.  145. 


ROUTE  No.  183. 

Strasburg  to  Basle,  ria  Colmar  and  Miihl- 
hausen.  Time,  2  h.  59  m. ;  fare,  first  class, 
13  marks  10  pf.  ;  second  class,  9  marks 
20  pf. 

Slrasburg,  described  in  Route  No.  181. 

There  is  nothing  of  importance  to  be 
seen  passing  over  this  route,  the  towns 
being  only  important  in  a  manufacturing 
point  of  view.  The  line  runs  through  the 
valley  of  Alsace,  and  parallel  with  the 
Rhine  anl  the  Canal  <ln  PJinm  n»  Rhin. 

S'-h'tttstndt  (Hotel,  de  I'Aigl-),  situated 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  III,  containing  9500 
inhabitants,  formerly  a  free  city  of  the  em- 
pire. It  was  bombarded  from  October  the 
19th  to  the  24th,  1870,  when  it  surrendered 
to  the  Germans.  It  was  unsuccessfully 
besieged  by  the  Allies  in  1815. 

The  fortifications  erected  by  Vaubaii 
have  been  dismantled  since  the  Franco- 
German  War.  The  churches  of  .S7.  (leorgz 
and  St.  Foy  deserve  a  visit ;  the  latter  was 
constructed  in  the  llth  century,  after  the 
model  of  that  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  at 
Jerusalem. 

Ribeaumlle  is  prettily  situated  at  the  en- 
trance of  a  picturesque  valley.  Above  the 
town  are  the  ruined  castles  of  fiibeaupierre, 
Girsberg,  and  St.  t 'trick. 

Two  hours  south  of  this  lies  the  ancient 
town  of  Kaiserberg,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
valley  nfthe  II 

Colmar  contains  22.000  inhabitants. 
Hotel,  DenxBles.  This  town  was  formwly 
the  capital  of  the  department  of  the  llnut 
Rhin,  now  the  principal  seat  of  the  Court 
of  Appeal  for  Alsace  and  Lorraine.  In 
679 


JNif  HL.UAUSEN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BONN. 


the  13th  century  Colmar  became  a  free 
city  of  the  empire.  It  was  taken  by  Louis 
XIV.  in  1673,  and  its  fortifications  destroy- 
ed. They  are  now  used  as  promenades. 

The  Cathedral  dates  from  the  early  part 
of  the  17th  century,  and  contains  some 
good  painted  glass. 

The  Museum  contains  a  few  paintings 
and  a  library  of  35,000  volumes.  Sun- 
day and  Thursday  free,  other  days  a  small 
pourboire.  Notice  an  aerolite  which  fell 
here  in  1492. 

The  Halle  aux  BUs  was  formerly  a 
church. 

Admiral  Rapp  was  a  native  of  Colmar. 
Monuments  have  been  erected  to  him  on 
Place  Rapp  and  on  the  Champs  de  Mars. 

Muhlhausen  (Hotels,  Roman  and  de  la 
Paix)  was  formerly  the  principal  manu- 
facturing city  in  the  French  department 
of  the  Upper  Rhine.  It  contains  51,000  in- 
habitants, many  having  left  when  the  city 
was  transferred  to  the  Germans,  most  go- 
ing to  Algeria,  and  many  of  the  principal 
manufacturing  firms  going  to  Paris. 

Muhlhausen  was  formerly  the  capital 
of  a  small  independent  state,  from  1466  to 
1798,  when  it  was  united  to  France.  It 
was  transferred  to  Germany  in  1871  by 
ihe  Treaty  of  Frankfort.  The  Hotel  de 
Ville  is  the  principal  building  in  the  town  ; 
it  dates  from  1551,  and  was  restored  in 
1846,  and  contains  some  allegorical  frescoes. 

The  Reformed  Church  is  a  handsome 
Gothic  building  of  modern  construction  ;  it 
is  surmounted  by  five  spires. 

The  edifice  belonging  to  the  Industrial 
Society  contains  a  cabinet  of  natural  his- 
tory and  a  technical  collection. 

Passing  Huningiie,  fortified  by  Vauban 
in  lf>79,  and  destroyed  by  the  Austrians 
in  1815,  we  arrive  at 

Bask.  For  description,  see  Index, Vol.III. 


ROUTE  No.  184. 

THE  TOUR  OF  THE  RHINE. 

From  Cologne  to  Strusburg,  via  Bonn, 
Coblentz  (excursion  of  the  Moselle  to 
Treves),  Bit/gen  (excursion  to  Saarbruck 
via  Kreuznach),  Mayence,  Wiesbaden  (ex-  j 


cursion  to  Ems  via  Schwalbach  and  Nas- 
sau), Frankfort,  Darmstadt,  Mnniiln-im, 
1I<  i>l<  n,,T>/.  Carhrvkt,  and  Badi-n  -  Jinden. 
(For  time  and  fares  between  all  these  locali- 
ties, see  p.  694.) 

If  making  the  Rhine  tour  for  the  first 
time,  most  travelers  will  prefer  taking  the 
steamer  during  the  summer  season,  al- 
though the  views  from  the  river's  banks 
in  many  cases  surpass  those  from  its  sur- 
face. 

Stc-amers  leave  Cologne  and  Deutz 
daily  for  different  points  on  the  Rhine. 
There  are  two  lines,  the  Dutch  Company, 
which  runs  steamers  between  Rotterdam 
and  Mannheim,  and  the  Cologne  and  Dils- 
seldorf  Company.  The  boats  of  the  last 
named  are  the  better  of  the  two  lines. 
They  are  built  somewhat  on  the  style  of 
the  small  river  boats  of  the  United  States, 
having  deck  saloons  whence  an  unob- 
structed view  in  all  weather.  The  usual 
time  to  Mayence,  which  is  as  far  as  the 
tourist  should  go  by  steamer,  is  twelve 
hours.  The  time  descending  is  about  one 
third  less. 

As  the  hours  of  departure  are  contin- 
ually being  changed,  the  traveler  had 
better  inquire  at  the  agency  in  the  town  ; 
he  had  also  better  purchase  his  tick- 
ets there,  otherwise  he  may  be  charged 
with  the  whole  distance  the  steamer  has 
come. 

Breakfasts  and  dinners  are  supplied  on 
board  at  very  reasonable  prices.  There  is 
always  a  printed  tariff  which  can  be  con- 
sulted. 

The  Rhine  ranks  first  among  European 
rivers  in  regard  to  the  variety  and  beauty  of 
the  scenery  through  which  it  flows,  and  also 
in  respect  to  the  historical  associations  and 
traditionary  memories  connected  with  its 
banks,  and  exceeds  in  length  any  other 
European  river  that  flows  directly  into 
the  ocean — being  little  short  of  SOO  miles, 
and  draining  an  area  of  over  71,000  square 
miles. 

As  between  Cologne  and  Bonn  there  is 
nothing  to  admire,  the  tourist  had  better 
proceed  to  the  latter  point  by  rail.  The 
railway  is  finished  to  Mayence  on  both 
banks  of  the  river. 


THE   RHINE  FROM   COBLENZ    TO   DUSSELDORF 


Harper's  Haiul-Book . 


BONN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


DKACHENFEI.S. 


Bonn  contains  31,510  inhabitants.  Prin- 
cipal hotel,  Grand  ll<'>t<-l  Royal,  beautifully 
situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  withi 
fine  English  garden.  This  town  is  noted 
for  its  splendid  University.  The  build- 
ing was  constructed  early  in  the  last 
century,  is  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
lung,  and  has  a  spacious  library  of  over 
100,000  volumes.  The  University  was 
established  here  by  the  King  of  Prussia 
in  1818,  and  owes  its  celebrity  to  thej 
splendid  discipline  maintained  among  the 
students,  who  now  number  820.  Prince 
Albert  was  formerly  a  student  here.  The 
University  contains  a  museum  of  Rhenish 
antiquities.  The  academical  hall  is  orna- 
mented with  singular  fresco  portraits,  in 
which  the  four  faculties  of  philosophy,  ju- 
risprudence, medicine,  and  theology  are 
portrayed  in  the  faces  of  the  most  cele- 
brated teachers  of  the  respective  sciences. 
The  Munster,  said  to  have  been  founded 
by  the  Empress  Helena,  is  surmounted  by 
five  towers.  It  contains  a  few  monuments, 
and  a  bronze  statue  of  the  empress;  it  was 
restored  in  1845.  The  beauty  of  Bonn 
consists  in  its  lovely  environs  and  long 
avenues  of  shade-trees. 

The  celebrated  composer  Beethoven  was 
born  here  in  1770.  A  bronze  statue  by 
I/iihnel'was  erected  to  his  memory  in  1845. 

Fifteen  minutes  southwest  of  the  town 
stands  the  castle  of  Poppebdoff,  which  con- 
tains a  fine  collection  of  minerals  and  ob- 
jects in  natural  history ;  also  a  bas-relief 
of  the  Rhine  from  Mayence  to  Bonn. 

One  of  the  finest  excursions  in  the  neigh- 
borhood is  to  the  church  on  the  summit 
of  KraaAerg,  behind  Poppelsdorf.  The 
church  contains  a  copy  of  the  Scala  Santa, 
or  Holy  Stairs  at  Rome,  which  led  to  Pi- 
late's j«dgment-seat,  and  bears  the  stains 
of  the  blood  which  fell  from  the  Saviour's 
head  when  wounded  by  the  crown  of 
thorns.  Pilgrims  go  up  and  down  the 
stairs  upon  their  bended  knees.  In  the 
vault  below  are  the  bodies  of  the  monks 
who  lived  in  the  convent  which  formerly 
stood  on  the  site  of  the  church.  They  lie 
in  twenty-five  coffins,  in  an  undecayed 
state,  exposed  to  the  gaze  of  the  curious. 
Their  shriveled  skin  and  horrid  appear- 
ance, while  it  fills  the  superstitious  with 
holy  awe,  turns  the  intelligent  traveler 
away  in  disgust. 


Godesbery. — Hotel,  Blinzler.  A  town  of 
10,")0  inhabitants.  Much  frequented  for 
its  agreeable  situation  and  mineral  waters. 
The  ruins  of  the  ancient  castle  of  the  Elec- 
tors of  Cologne  is  a  most  conspicuous  ob- 
ject ;  it  dates  from  the  early  part  of  the 
13th  century.  It  was  destroyed  in  1583. 
The  ruins  are  now  the  property  of  the  Em- 
press of  German y. 

There  are  numerous  excursions  in  the 
vicinity. 

Kijnigswinter  (on  the  left  going  up). — Ho- 
tels, efe  I 'Europe  and  de  Merlin.  A  hun.l- 
some  modern  town  containing  1550  inhab- 
itants, and  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Seven 
Mitinitt.tins,  the  best  point  from  whence  to 
make  a  tour  of  the  beautiful  scenery  of 
this  group  of  hills. 

/Jrai'/n >ij','lf-  so  called  from  its  cave,  in 
which  the  dragon  was  killed  by  ti.e  horned 
Siegfried.  Its  summit  is  crowned  by  an 
old  castle,  once  the  fortress  and  watch-tow- 
er of  the  robbers  of  the  Rhine.  Here  they 
could  espy  the  vessels  they  intended  to 
plunder,  and  defend  themselves  against 
one  hundred  times  their  number  when  at- 
tacked. On  one  of  the  other  summit.*  was 
another  castle,  belonging  to  the  Archbish- 
op of  Cologne.  Byron  gives  a  glowing 
description  of  this,  the  most  enchanting 
portion  of  the  lovely  Rhine  : 

"•  The  castled  crag  of  Drachenfels 

Frowns  o'er  the  wide  and  winding  Rhine. 
Whose  brea?t  of  waters  broadly  swells 

Between  the  banks  which  bear  the  vine, 
And  hills  all  rich  with  blossom' d  trees, 

And  fields  which  promise  corn  and  wine, 
And  scatter'd  cities  crowning  the-e, 

Whose  far  white  walls  along  them  shine, 
Have  strew' d  a  scene  which  I  should  see 
With  double  joy  wert  thou  with  me. 

"  And  peasant-girls,  with  deep  blue  eyes, 

And  hands  which  offer  early  flowers, 
Walk  smiling  o'er  this  paradise  ; 

Above,  the  frequent  feudal  towers 
Through  green  leaves  lift  their  walls  of  gray, 

And  many  a  rock  which  steeply  lowers, 
And  noble  arch  in  proud  de-ay, 

Look  o'er  this  vale  of  vintage-bowers ; 
But  one  thing  want  these  banks  of  Rhiiic — 
Thy  gentle  hand  to  cla-p  i:i  lain.'. 

"  The  river  nobly  foams  and  fl  >\vs. 

The  charm  of  this  enchanted  grourvl. 
And  all  its  t!n.u-:\ml  turns  disclose 

Some  fresher  b-Miity  varying  round  : 
The  haughtiest  breast  its  wish  might  boun<1 

Through  life  t<>  dwell  delighted  here' 
Nor  could  on  earth  a  spot  be  found 

To  Nature  and  to  me  so  dear, 
Could  thy  dear  eyes,  in  foKo  \  ing  mine, 
Still  sweeten  more  these  bank'  of  Rhine." 
G81 


ROLAHDSECK. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


ANDEKNACH. 


A  railway  *vas  laid  in  1883  to  the  sum- 
mit of  the  Drachenfels  ;  10  min. ;  1-J  m. 

As  far  as  lovely  scenery  is  concerned, 
this  portion  of  the  Rhine  is  considered  the 
finest.  On  a  small  island  in  the  river  is 
the  building  once  used  by  the  nuns  of  St. 
Ursula.  When  these  establishments  were 
broken  up  by  the  French,  this  one  was  pre- 
served through  the  intercession  of  Jose- 
phine. It  is  now  used  as  a  nunnery  for 
Sisters  of  Charity.  The  bride  of  Roland, 
nephew  of  Charlemagne,  took  the  veil  here 
on  hearing  a  false  report  of  her  husband's 
death,  and  on  the  left  bank  (right  as  you 
ascend)  of  the  Rhine  stands  the  castle  of 
Rolundseck,  built,  it  is  said,  by  Roland, 
that  he  might  see  the  convent  where  his 
bride  had  hidden  herself  from  the  world. 
The  castle  was  at  one  time  the  home  of  a 
band  of  robbers,  who  made  themselves  the 
terror  of  the  Rhine. 

Rolandstck  station.  Hotel,  de  Rolands- 
eck.  The  modern  Bdcidere,  built  high 
above  the  castle,  some  twenty  minutes 
from  the  hotel,  is  one  of  the  very  best 
points  of  view  on  the  Rhine;  fee,  5  g. 
Half  a  mile  farther  is  the  crater  of  Roders- 
bery,  seventy  feet  deep,  and  four  hundred 
yards  in  diameter. 

On  the  right  as  we  ascend  the  town  of 

Unkel  is  passed,  where  the  river  makes 
a  wide  curve.  The  country  residences 
here  are  numerous  and  handsome. 

Remagen.  —  Hotel,  Furstenberg.  This  is 
a  centre  for  numerous  excursions.  This 
was  the  Rigomagus  of  the  Romans.  Be- 
low this  town,  situated  on  an  eminence, 
stands  the  magnificent  Gothic  church  of 
Apollonariakirche,  erected  by  the  Count 
Filrstenberg  -  Stammheim.  Open  from 
9.30  A.M.  to  12  M.,  and  from  2  to  4  P.M. 
It  was  finished  in  1839  by  Zwirner,  archi- 
tect of  the  Cologne  Cathedral.  It  is  orna- 
mented with  ten  large  frescoes,  by  Deger, 
M  tiller,  and  Ittenbach.  The  view  from 
the  church  is  superb. 

On  our  left,  near  the  water,  is  the  town 
of  Linz,  strongly  fortified.  The  archbish- 
ops of  Cologne  built  the  tower  we  still  see 
the»e  for  the  purpose  of  defending  the  town 
against  the  natives  of  Andernach,  and  to 
collect  the  toll  from  the  navigators  of  the 
Rhine. 

ThePfarrkirche,  on  the  height,  contains 
a  fine  picture  of  the  Annunciation  and 
Crucifixion,   Nativity,    Presentation,   and 
682 


Adoration.  Twenty  minutes  from  the 
town  are  the  basalt  quarries  of  Dutteitberrj ; 
and  one  and  a  half  hours  farther  are  those 
of  Afindenberg,  near  which  is  the  chateau 
of  the  Prince  of  Salm-Kryburg. 

On  the  same  side  the  blackened  walls 
of  the  castle  of  Ockernfelt  arc  passed. 

The  castle  of  ^-1  rnifi-ls,  which  rises  on 
our  right,  was  erected  by  Henry  of  Isen- 
bnrg,  and  now  the  property  of  Count  Wes- 
terholt,  by  whom  it  has  been  restored. 

llonninyen  station  on  the  same  side,  then 
Niederbreisiff  on  the  left :  at  the  south 
end  of  this  town  there  is  an  old  Templars' 
lodge. 

On  our  left  we  pass  the  small  village  of 
RMaeet,  to  the  east  of  which  rises  a 
square  tower  eighteen  feet  high,  the  only 
remnant  of  the  castle  of  Rheincck,  which 
was  dismantled  by  the  French  in  1089.  and 
destroyed  in  1775.  Adjoining  it  a  new 
castle  was  erected  by  Herr  von  Bethmann- 
Holl\veg  in  1832.  The  interior  contains 
some  fine  frescoes  and  modern  pictures. 

On  our  right  we  pass  the  village  of 
Brohl :  it  is  celebrated  for  its  tufa-stone, 
of  volcanic  origin,  which,  when  ground  up 
into  powder,  possesses  the  peculiar  proper- 
ty of  hardening  under  water,  often  being 
made  into  cement.  The  stone  was  used 
by  the  Romans  for  coffins,  as  it  had  the 
property  of  absorbing  the  moisture  of 
the  bod}'.  This  gave  them  the  name  of 
sarcophagi,  or  "  flesh-consumers,"  applied 
now  to  all  stone  coffins.  The  cement  is 
used  largety  in  the  construction  of  the 
dikes  of  Holland. 

On  the  left  notice  on  the  summit  of  a 
rock  the  remains  of  the  castle  of  Hammer- 
stein.  This  was  the  refuge,  in  1105,  of  the 
Emperor  Henry  IV.  when  persecuted  by 
his  son,  Henry  V.  It  was  also  during  that 
time  the  place  of  deposit  of  the  re^lia  of 
the  empire.  It  was  besieged  and  occu- 
pied by  the  Swedes  during  the  Thirty- 
years'  War,  and  destroyed  by  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Cologne  in  1660. 

Amkntach  (Hotel,  llackenbrucli),  one 
of  the  most  ancient  towns  on  the  banks  of 
the  Rhine.  It  was  called  by  the  Romans 
Antonacum,and  was  conquered  by  the  Ale- 
manni  in  335 ;  retaken  by  the  Emperor 
Julian  in  359.  It  was  captured  and  burned 
l>y  the  French  in  1698.  Notice  the  lofty 
watch-tower  breached  by  the  French  can- 
non. 


NECWIED. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


COBLESTZ. 


On  the  left  we  pass  the  town  of  Xeuwied. 
Hotel,  Aitkn:  In  this  town  is  a  palace  be- 
lon^ing  to  the  Prince  of  Wind,  which  con- 
tains numerous  relics  dug  up  near  the 
town,  and  supposed  to  belong  to  the  inhal>- 
itants  of  the  colony  of  Victoria,  destroyed 
in  the  4th  century. 

The  community  of  the  IferrenAuttr,  or 
Moravian  Brothers,  occupy  a  separate  por- 
tion of  the  town.  They  munlicr  about  400 
members.  They  were  originally  follow- 
ers of  John  Huss.  They  have  their  own 
laws,  which  are  administered  by  their 
elders.  The  unmarried  brethren  live  in 
a  separate  building,  carrying  on  different 
trades,  the  produce  of  which  is  devoted  to 
the  society.  The  females  are  all  dressed 
in  a  particular  manner,  according  to  their 
station  iu  life.  The  head-dress  of  a  young 
girl  is  red ;  unmarried  young  woman, 
pink;  married,  lilue  :  and  willows,  white. 
Strangers  can  visit  their  establishment, 
but  they  are  expected  to  purchase  some  of 
their  wares. 

On  the  right  notice  a  square  watch-tow- 
er called  >  I  'tin.i(-nf/i  a /-HI.  or  ''White  Tower," 
on  the  frontier  of  Treves.  It  is  noted  for 
being  the  place  where  the  French  crossed 
the  Rhine  in  1797.  in  spite  of  the  Anstrians, 
who  fiercely  contested  their  passage.  A 
monument  has  been  erected  to  the  French 
General  Hoche,  who  consummated  that 
memorable  exploit  by  imitating  Julius 
Caesar,  who,  nearly  20UO  years  ago.  cross- 
ed the  river  in  the  same  manner  when 
leading  his  armv  against  the  Sicam- 
bri. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  stands 
the  village  of  En</cr.<.  the  ancient  capital 
of  the  Engersgaii.  Here  in  the  14th  cen- 
tury the  Archbishop  von  Falkenstein  erect- 
ed a  castle  to  protect  the  Rhine  traders 
against  the  counts  of  "\Vesterwald.  No- 
tice a  portion  of  its  tower  rising  from  a 
modern  chateau  erected  in  1758,  now  used 
as  a  military  school. 

Mfilillii'fni,  above  which  are  the  iron- 
works. Sonic  three  miles  up  the  valley 
is  the  village  and  chateau  of  .">>/.'/«,  the 
property  of  the  Prince  fSayn-Wittgeiistein. 
It  contains  some  fine  modern  paintings, 
which  are  shown  in  the  absence  of  the 
family.  Some  distance  beyond  are  the 
ruins  of  the  old  castle  of  the  same  family 
destroyed  by  the  French  during  the  Thir- 
ty-years' War,  and  farther  on  is  the  castle 


of  the  robber-knights  the  Counts  of  I  sen- 
burn. 

At  Xeuendorf  many  of  the  large  timber 
rafts  the  tourist  meets  on  the  Rhine  are 
formed  from  smaller  ones. 

On  the  right,  near  Kesselheim,  stand 
the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Schonbornlimt, 
formerly  the  residence  of  the  Electors  of 
Treves,  and  during  £he  French  Revolution 
the  residence  of  many  of  the  Bourbon 
princes,  the  head-quarters  of  the  exiles, 
where  all  their  plots  were  hatched  for  the 
recovery  of  France  from  the  Republicans. 

Before  arriving  at  Coblentz  the  com- 
manding rock  of  Ehrenbreitstein,  the  "Gi- 
braltar of  the  Rhine,"  comes  in  view.  It 
stands  400  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
Rhine.  As  early  as  1018  it  was  presented 
by  the  Franconian  king  Dagobert  to  the 
bishops  of  Treves,  who  made  it  their 
stronghold;  later  they  built  a  palace  at 
the  foot  of  the  rock.  The  fortress  has 
only  twice  been  captured :  first  by  the 
French,  in  1631,  through  stratagem,  and 
again  by  the  French  in  1798,  when  all  its 
proviMons  had  been  exhausted.  It  was 
besieged  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1688  ;  and,  al- 
though the  great  engineer  Vauban  brought 
all  his  ability  to  bear  against  it,  he  was 
unsuccessful.  It  was  also  besieged  dur- 
ing the  years  1795  to  1798.  The  French 
added  some  new  works  to  increase  its 
strength  ;  but  after  the  Peace  of  Lune- 
ville  in  1801  they  blew  it  up.  After  the 
Peace  of  Pari.s  it  was  restored  to  Prus- 
sia, and  the  French  paid  fifteen  million 
francs  for  the  purpose  of  placing  it  in  its 
former  condition.  ,  It  cost  the  Prussian 
government  eighteen  million  francs  to  re- 
pair it. 

It  is  capable  of  accommodating  100,000 
men,  but  5000  are  sufficient  to  man  it 
properly.  It  is  defended  by  400  cannon. 
It  is  said  that  provisions  for  8000  men  for 
ten  years  can  be  stored  in  its  magazines. 
It  contains  about  50,000  stands  of  arms, 
all  needle-guns.  It  may  be  visited  by 
procuring  a  ticket,  for  which  a  small  fes  is 
demanded. 

Fort  . -1  *t<  >vt>  in  is  situated  south  of  Eh- 
renbreitsteir.  and  completes  the  fortiiica- 
tions  on  that  side  of  the  Rhine. 

Ci: li/ii/,'-..  -The  river  is  here  crossed  by 

a  bridge  of  boats.     The  town  is  built  upon 

a    triangular  piece   of  land    between  the 

rivers  Moselle  and  Rhine,  and  is  surround- 

683 


COBLEXTZ. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


COBLEXTZ. 


ed  by  powerful  fortifications.  The  streets 
are  mostly  regular,  and  many  of  the  pub- 
lic buildings  handsome.  Principal  hotel, 
and  one  of  the  best  on  the  Rhine,  is  the 
Giant,  directly  opposite  the  steamboat  land- 
ing; the  proprietors  are  vine-dealers. 

Coblentz  was  founded  B.C.  9,  and  was 
called  Confluentes,  from  the  confluence  of 
the  two  rivers  Moselle  and  Rhine,  which 
name  has  become  corrupted  to  Coblentz. 
It  is  the  capital  of  the  Rhenish  provinces 
of  Prussia,  and  the  strongest  bulwark  of 
Germany. 

It  was  taken  by  the  French  in  1794,  who 
made  it  the  capital  of  the  department  of 
the  Rhine  and  Moselle.  In  1814  the  Allies 
compelled  the  French  to  evacuate  the  town, 
since  which  time  it  has  belonged  to  Prus- 
sia. Its  situation  is  one  of  the  most  love- 
ly and  agreeable  on  the  Rhine,  especially 
during  the  summer  season ;  the  great  num- 
ber of  arrivals  and  departures  each  day 
(as  all  tourists  must  stop  here),  the  pres- 
ence of  the  military,  who  are  every  where 
to  be  seen,  its  parades,  music,  etc.,  make 
two  or  three  daj's'  residence  very  enjoy- 
able. 

Near  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers  is 
situated  the  church  of  St.  Castor,  founded 
in  836 ;  it  is  the  church  in  which  Charle- 
magne divided  his  empire  among  his 
grandchildren.  Most  of  the  present 
structure  dates  from  the  13th  century,  and 
its  pointed  arches  belong  to  the  15th.  In 
the  choir  there  is  a  fine  monument  to  Arch- 
bishop von  Falkenstein ;  also  two  good 
modern  frescoes.  There  is  also  a  monu- 
ment to  St.  Riza,  eracted  in  18C2.  In 
front  of  this  church  is  a  fountain,  erected 
as  a  monument  by  Napoleon  on  his  march 
to  invade  Russia,  with  an  inscription  re- 
cording the  event.  A  few  months  later, 
the  Russians,  in  pursuit  of  the  French 
army  on  their  way  to  Paris,  passed  the 
monument,  when  the  commander  of  the 
forces  ordered  the  following  sarcastic  ad- 
dition to  the  inscription  :  "  Vu  et  approuve 
par  nous,  commandant  Russe  de  la  Ville  de 
Coblence,  Janvier  ler,  1814  " — "  Seen  and 
approved  by  us,  Russian  commandant  of 
the  city  of  Coblentz,  January  1,  1814." 
The  principal  building  in  Coblentz  is  the 
palace  built  by  the  Bishop  of  Treves  in 
1778.  It  has  been  fitted  up  for  the  Em- 
peror of  Germany  as  a  summer  residence. 
It  fronts  on  the  great  square,  on  which 
684 


stands  a  fountain  obelisk.  Parades  are 
held  here  once  a  week,  when  the  military 
band  plays,  Wednesdays  at  11.30.  The  in- 
terior is  beautifully  adorned,  and  may  be 
visited  when  the  imperial  family  are  ab- 
sent. The  banqueting  and  electoral  halls 
are  very  fine.  The  north  wing  contains 
the  palace  chapel,  adjoining  is  an  English 
chapel,  which  the  emperor  has  placed  at 
the  disposition  of  the  resident  English. 

Above  the  bridge  of  boats  a  splendid 
new  iron  railway  bridge  was  opened  in 
1866.  Foot  passengers  can  also  cross. 
Near  this  is  the  .4  nlayen,  or  Rhine  Gardens — 
land  reclaimed  from  the  Rhine  by  the  Em- 
press of  Germany — a  beautiful  walk  along 
the  banks  of  the  river,  where  the  military 
band  often  plays.  There  is  a  Cn.<ii«>  in 
the  town,  with  a  fine  ball-room,  reading- 
rooms,  and  garden.  Coblentz  is  not  a 
business  place  of  great  repute  ;  it  is  only 
well  known  for  the  production  of  spark- 
ling Moselle  and  Hock  wines.  Messrs.  H. 
Htirter  and  Son, wholesale  wine  merchants, 
purveyors  to  the  Emperor  of  Germany, 
have  the  finest  establishment  and  lar- 
gest wine-cellars  here,  and  well  worth  a 
visit.  They  keep  an  immense  stock  of  the 
choicest  sparkling  Moselle  and  Hock,  far 
superior  to  Champagne.  Besides  these 
wines,  you  will  find  in  their  cellars  a  col- 
lection of  all  the  choice  wines  of  the  coun- 
try, viz.,  the  genuine  Castle  Johannisberg, 
the  Steinberg  Cabinet,  Hochheim,  Marco- 
brunn,  etc.  The  gentlemen  of  the  firm  are 
most  happy  in  showing  visitors  the  whole 
process  of  preparing  the  wines.  This  house 
has  also  a  branch  establishment  at  Ham- 
burg, near  Frankfort,  also  one  in  London, 
11  Adam  St.  Seltzer-water  and  wine  are  the 
principal  articles  of  commerce  at  Coblentz. 

On  the  left  bank,  below  the  junction  of 
the  Moselle,  stands  the  monument  erected 
to  the  youthful  and  heroic  General  Mar- 
ceau,  who  was  killed  at  the  battle  of  Al- 
tenkirchen  in  1796. 

"  By  Coblentz,  on  a  rise  of  gentle  ground, 
There  is  a  small  and  simple  pyramid, 
Crowning  the  .summit  of  a  verdant  mound; 
Beneath  its  base  a  hero's  ashes  hid — 
Our  enemy's  ;  but  let  not  that  forbid 
Honor  tn  Uarcean,  o'er  whose  early  tomb 
Tear?,  bier  trars,  gushed  from  the  rough  sol- 
diers' lid, 

Lamenting  and  yet  envying  such  a  doom, 
Falling  for  France,  whose  rights  he  battled  to 
resume." 


THE    RHINE    FROM    BADEN   TO    COBLENZ 


^  {tlfHliU! 

- ! r      "filiffffen 


THE  MOSELLE   FROM   TREVES  TO  COBLENZ 


HUI-JXT'S  Hand -Book. 


COBLEXTZ. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


COCHEM. 


The  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  <'<>!>- 
Icntz  are  both  interesting  iind  numerous. 
The  principal  is  that  to  the  castle  of  AVo/- 
ii/i/'i/.t.  It  was  built  by  one  of  the  arch- 
bishops of  Troves,  both  as  a  residence  and 
fortress,  and  is  one  of  the  most  imposing 
castles  on  the  Rhine,  and  the  view  is  un- 
surpassed. It  was  presented  to  the  King 
of  Prussia  by  the  city  of  Coblentz,  by 
whom  it  was  repaired.  Many  of  the  rooms 
are  beautifully  frescoed.  The  armory 
contains  numerous  relics,  among  -which 
are  the  swords  of  Murat,  Napoleon,  and 
Blucher.  Queen  Victoria  and  the  Prince 
Consort  were  entertained  here  by  the 
King  of  Prussia  in  18-15.  It  may  be 
either  visited  by  carriage  from  Coblentz — 
one-horse  carriage,  4  marks ;  two  horses, 
5  marks  ;  distance  three  miles — or  from  the 
railway  station  of  Cupellen,  fee  for  one  per- 
son, 1  mark  :  for  a  party,  3  marks.  About 
half  an  hour's  distance  from  the  town  stands 
the  hydropathic  station  of  Laubaclt,  where 
there  is  good  accommodation  for  moderate 
prices.  It  is  finely  situated  on  the  verge 
of  a  forest,  where  there  is  capital  shooting : 
it  belongs  to  the  Messrs.  Hiirter  of  Cob- 
lentz, who  are  exceedingly  kind  in 
granting  visitors  permission  to  shoot. 

To  the  Hill  of  Ckartreute^  another  inter- 
esting walk  or  drive,  a  visit  should  ba 
made  ;  the  view  is  magnificent.  It  is 
half  a  mile  above  the  town,  and  takes  its 
name  from  an  old  convent,  which  was  re- 
moved to  give  place  to  Fort  Congtuntinr. 
Furt  Alexander  crowns  the  top  of  the  slope. 

Another  excursion  is  that  to  the  Kuh- 
kopf,  the  highest  point  of  the  forest,  llOi) 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  From  this 
spot  there  is  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
"  Seven  Mountains  "  near  Bonn,  the  Eifel, 
Coblentz,  and  all  the  surrounding  vil- 
lages. 

The  following  excursions  are  well  worth 
making,  each  one  of  which  will  occupy  one 
day  : 

1.  To  the  Castle  o/Eltz,  belonging  to  the 
Count  of  Eltz,  a  splendid  drive  along  the 
^I<»i.'lle  ;  it  is  beautifully  situated  in  a  ra- 
vine surrounded  by  mountains. 

'2.  To  tho.  Lake  nf  Lttac/t,  where  the  vi- 
cinity is  all  volcanic;  near  which  is  A7«/<  /•- 
.!/•  /••//'/,  a  village  with  a  dozen  or  more 
breweries.  The  cellars  are  very  cold,  sit- 
uated in  volcanic  stones.  Return  by  the 
valley  of  Brohl  and  the  iron  watering- 
Voi..  II.— G  2 


place  of  Tdtriutan  —  the  water  here  re- 
sembles those  of  Setters  (accommodation 
at  the  Kurhatis) — and  by  Andernach. 

3.  To.\«  Hii/ti/ir,  a  watering-place  opened 
in  1858.     The  waters  of  which  are  most 
efficacious    in   cases   of  pulmonary   com- 
plaints, gout,  and    scrofula;    less    strong 
than  those  of  Carlsbad,  but  stronger  than 
those   of  Ems  or  Vichy ;    they   are  also 
beneficial  in  cases  of  diabetes.     On  a  lofty 
peak  rises  the  Castle  ofNeunatr,  once  the 
seat  of  a  younger  branch  of  the  Counts 
Von  cler  Ahre. 

From  this  place  to  Altenahr  in  one  hour 
through  a  magnificent  valley,  where  the 
famous  Wulporzheim  red  wine  grows.  Go 
by  rail  from  Coblentz  to  Remagen,  then  by 
carriage  to  Neuenahr,  Altenahr,  and  back 
to  Remagen. 

4.  To  A  hrenberg,  where  there  is  a  church 
built  by  the   priest  himself,  the   interior 
of  which  is  in  imitation  of  mosaic,  from 
whence  there  is  another  splendid  view  of 
Ehrenbreitstein,  Coblentz,  and  the  Rhine 
and  Moselle  valleys. 

[The  Mosel'e  River  to  Treves. — This  is  ao 
excursion  that  can  not  be  particularly  rec- 
ommended, unless  the  traveler  has  plenty 
of  time,  and  has  some  particular  reason  for 
going  to  Treves  by  river,  occupying  two 
days  ;  or  coming  from  Treves  to  Coblentz, 
taking  twelve  or  fifteen  hours.  There  are 
few  objects  of  attraction,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  ruined  castles  and  pretty  views; 
and  if  the  water  should  be  low,  which  is 
!  generally  the  case  in  summer,  recourse 
j  must  be  taken  to  row-boats,  or  land  and 
take  the  diligence.  For  a  pedestrian  the 
route  is  always  interesting.  We  would, 
however,  advise  an  excursion  as  far  as 

Cochem,  up  one  day  and  down  the  next. 

The  railway  from  Coblentz  to  Treves  is 
only  2  h.  16  m. ;  fare,  8  marks  90  pf. 

The  principal  towns  on  the  river  going 
up  are,  on  the  right,  Winningen,  where  some 
of  the  best  wine  is  produced. 

Right. — C'ibein,  above  which  is  the  cas- 
tle of  Niederburg,  the  seat  of  the  knights 
of  Cobern. 

Riyht. — Gondorf,  with  an  old  electoral 
castle,  and  the  family  mansion  of  the  C"vnts 
von  der  Leyen.  A  large  quantity  of  pipe- 
clay is  shipped  from  here  to  Holland. 

Left. — Alken,  an  old  town,  connected  by 
walls  and  towers  to  the  Castle  ofThurand, 
situated  on  the  height  above.  It  dates 
685 


BHODENBACH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


NEUMAGEN. 


from  1197,  and  was  in  the  13th  century 
the  stronghold  of  the  robber-knight  Pfalz- 
grate  Zorn,  who  was  here  besieged  for  two 
years  by  the  Archbishop  of  Treves.  The 
garrison,  having  been  starved  out,  were 
obliged  to  surrender,  but  Zorn  cut  his  way 
through  the  enemy. 

Brodenbach  stands  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Ehrenbach,  on  our  left.  Two  miles  back 
is  the  fine  old  Castle  of  Ehrenberg,  the 
finest  of  the  castles  on  the  Moselle,  and 
equaled  by  few  on  the  Rhine.  It  is  now 
the  property  of  the  Stein  family. 

Right. — Moselkern,  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Eltz.  In  the  valley  of  this  river 
stands  the  old  Castle,  of  Eltz,  and  higher 
up  that  of  Bisckofstein,  built  in  the  13th 
century,  and  belonging  at  one  time  to  the 
Archbishop  of  Treves. 

Right. — Cochem  contains  a  population 
of  2600  inhabitants.  Here  may  be  seen 
the  ruins  of  a  castle  which  served  as  the 
residence  of  the  Archbishop  of  Treves  from 
the  14th  to  the  16th  century.  In  a  side 
valley  lower  down  is  the  Castle  of  Winne- 
berg,  the  most  ancient  family  seat  of  the 
princes  of  Metternich.  It  has  lately  been 
restored  by  its  owner,  the  present  prince, 
who  resides  at  Vienna. 

Right. — A  If,  situated  at  the  entrance  of 
the  valley  of  that  name,  through  which 
the  tourist  passes  the  ruins  of  the  Castle  of 
Arras  on  the  route  to  Kertrich  (Hotels, 
Klering  and  Werlinrj),  a  watering  -  place, 
whose  baths  are  efficacious  in  cases  of 
gout,  rheumatism,  and  maladies  of  the 
nerves.  There  is  a  good  road  from  the 
river  to  the  baths. 

Left. — Zell,  an  old  town  of  2000  inhab- 
itants, overlooked  by  an  ancient  watch- 
tower. 

Left. — Punderich.  On  the  opposite  side, 
half  an  hour  from  the  shore,  stand  the  cel- 
ebrated ruins  of  the  ancient  castle  and 
convent  of  Marienbury.  The  view  from 
the  eminence  of  Prinzenskopfcken  is  con- 
sidered the  most  beautiful  on  the  river. 
There  is  a  small  place  of  entertainment 
situated  within  the  ruins,  where  one  can 
breakfast  or  dine. 

Right.—  Traben.  Hotel,  Feist.  On  the 
heights  are  the  ruins  of  Mont  Royal,  built 
by  Vauban  in  1686  by  order  of  Louis  X I V. 
After  many  millions  had  been  spent  upon 
it,  it  was  razed  to  the  ground  in  accordance 
with  the  Treaty  of  Ryswick,  sixteen  years 
686 


after  it  was   built.     It  completely   com- 
mands the  river,  up  and  down. 

Left.  —  Nearly  opposite  Traben  stands 
Trarbttch,  a  small  industrious  town,  one 
of  the  most  flourishing  on  the  river,  but 
with  narrow,  dirty  streets.  It  is  surmount- 
ed by  the  ruins  of  the  Cast'e  of  Grafinbnrg, 
which  completely  commands  the  river,  and 
is  the  most  formidable  position  between 
Coblentz  and  Treves.  It  was  constructed 
in  the  14th  century  by  the  Count  of  Spon- 
heim,  with  the  proceeds  of  the  ransom  of 
the  Archbishop  of  Treves,  whom  his  mother 
captured  one  night  when  descending  the 
Moselle,  and  confined  within  the  castle  for 
attempting  to  infringe  upon  her  rights. 
The  castle  was  dismantled  by  the  French 
in  1734. 

Right.  —  Uerzig.  Below  the  village,  in 
the  face  of  a  red  cliff,  a  wall  may  be  seen 
which  covers  the  mouth  of  a  cave,  once 
the  residence  of  a  band  of  robber-knights. 
A  road  leads  from  here  to  Wittlich  and  the 
Eifel. 

Left. — Berncastel,  the  capital  of  the  dis- 
trict, contains  2000  inhabitants.  It  is  sur- 
mounted by  the  ruined  Castle  of  Landshut. 
It  was  partly  burned  in  1857.  There  is 
a  diligence  to  Treves  in  six  hours,  and  to 
Birkenfeld  in  the  same  time. 

Left. — Neiimagen,  the  Noviomagus  of  the 
Romans,  M'here  Constantine  formerly  had 
a  castle,  few  vestiges  of  which  now  remain, 
and  they  might  be  the  ruins  of  any  thing 
else.  There  is  a  church  which  dates  from  the 
12th  century,  and,  it  is  said,  was  mostly  con- 
structed with  material  taken  from  the  castle. 

There  are  several  other  small  places  of 
no  importance,  then  Treves. 

Route  182.  Treves  to  Metz,  2J  hours  ;  8 
m.,  20  pf. 

Coblentz  to  Paris,  via  Cologne.  Time,  13 
h.  52  m. ;  fare,  55  marks  10  pf. 

Coblentz  to  Cologne  (rail).  Time,  1  h.  56 
m. ;  fare,  first  class,  7  marks  30  pf. 

Coblentz  to  Mayence.  Time,  1  li.  51  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  7  marks  90  pf. 

Coblentz  to  Frankfort.  Time,  2  h.  44  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  11  marks  30  pf. 

If  wishing  to  visit  Ems  direct,  without 
making  the  excursion  from  Wiesbaden  by 
carriage  through  Schwalbach  and  Nassau, 
the  time  from  Coblentz  by  rail  is  only  one 
hour.  If  wishing  to  make  some  stay  at 
that  charming  watering-place,  go  direct 
by  rail.  If  not  intending  to  make  the  ex- 


OBERLAHXSTKIN. 


[THE  KM  FIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


WELMICK. 


cursion   by   carriage,  make    a   visit  from  ' 
Coblentz,  and  return  there. 

The  Nassau  St  it,-  Railway  from  Cob- 
lentz to  \Viesb.iden.  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Rhine  going  up,  in  2  h.  30  m.  Several 
trains  daily. 

Continuing  our  route  up  the  Rhine,  we 
pass  on  the  IP  ft  the  ruined  church  of  St. 
John ;  then 

Oberlnhnftiin  (Hotel,  WeUer\  surround- 
ed by  the  remains  of  ancient  walls.  The  ' 
old  castle,  once  the  residence  of  the  Elec- 
tors of  Mayence,  was  founded  1394.  Some 
restorations  were  made  during  the  last 
century.  Behind  the  town  rises  the  pict- 
uresque f'astlf  off.ahneck,  from  which  there 
is  :\  charming  view.  It  has  been  bought 
by  a  Mr.  Moriarty.  an  Irish  gentleman, 
who  has  repaired  it  with  considerable  taste. 

A 1  love  Cupellen,  the  station  for  Stolzen- 
fels.  H  the  Kdniffsttukl,  originally  construct- 
ed by  the  Emperor  Charles  I  V.  in  liJTti.  and 
rebuilt  out  of  the  old  material  in  1843. 
The  electors  held  their  meetings  on  the 
stone  seat  at  the  top.  This  place  was  chosen 
by  the  four  Rhenish  electors  as  their  place 
of  meeting,  as  e.ieh  party  on  breaking  up 
could  reach  his  dominions  in  a  few  min- 
utes :  the  town  of  Braubach  belonging  to 
the  Palatinate,  Stolzenfels  to  Treves,  Lahn- 
stein  to  Mayence,  and  Rhcnse  to  Cologne. 
Hen-  numerous  emperors  were  elected, 
treaties  signed,  and  decrees  issued.  Ten 
minutes  from  here  lies  the  town  of 

Rheuse,  still  surrounded  by  the  walls  and 
fus-cs  erected  by  the  Electors  of  Cologne. 

B/aubdch,  a  small  town  on  our  left,  sit- 
uated at  the  Imttom  of  a  conical  hill,  on 
which  stands  the  imposing  Castle  of  Markt- 
burg,  500  feet  above  the  river.  It  was 
originally  a  chap;-],  dedicated  to  St.  Mark 
by  Count  Philip  of  Katzenelnbogen.  The 
government  of  Nassau  used  it  as  a  state 
prison.  It  contains  numerous  horrible  dun- 
geons, one  of  which  is  called  the  Ifangloch. 
where  prisoners  were  let  down  in  a  bucket. 
There  were  also  dungeons  expressly  for 
torture  -  rooms,  in  one  of  which  the  Em- 
peror Henry  IV.  was  confined  by  his  son. 

After  passing  the  village  of  Ostfrspny. 
above  which  rises  the  Castle  of  Liebeneck, 

Koppard  is  reached.  It  is  an  ancient. 
walled  to'.vn.  on  our  right  as  we  ascend. 
and  contains  :>.V»()  inhabitants.  It  was  for- 
merly a  free  imperial  city,  and  numerous 
Dietswere  held  here.  The  principal  church, 


the  f/auplkirche,  deserves  a  visit.  Behind 
tin-  town  stands  the  old  Convent  ofMarien- 
linn/,  transformed  into  a  water-cure  estab- 
li.-hmcnt.  On  the  bank  of  the  river  is  an- 
other water-cure  establishment,  that  of 
M ithl'iii'l.  Above  Boppard,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  river,  lies 

Camp,  so  called  from  the  remains  of  an 
intrenehment  found  on  the  hill.  They 
may  lie  Roman  or  more  modern. 

On  the  right  stands  the  Convent  'fBcrn- 
h'>i'<  ti.  a  favorite  resort  of  pilgrims,  above 
which  stand  '•  the  Brothers,"  or  the  ruins 
of  two  castles  inhabited  by  the  brothers  Con- 
rad and  Heinrich  von  Boppard,  who  both 
loved  their  foster-sister  Hildegarde.  There 
are  two  stories  told  of  their  lives  and  death. 
One  that  they  fought  and  killed  each  other; 
the  other,  the  more  interesting  and  roman- 
tic of  the  two,  is  that  Heinrich,  with  gener- 
ous impulse,  departed  for  the  Crusades,  to 
leave  his  brother  in  possession  of  the  beauti- 
ful maid  ;  but  Conrad,  hearing  of  the  brave 
deeds  of  his  brother,  pined  to  join  him, 
and  became  cold  and  indifferent  to  his 
sister.  He  soon  left  for  the  wars,  leaving 
Hildegarde  to  brood  and  pine  over  the  loss 
of  her  lover;  but  he  soon  returned  with  a 
young  and  beautiful  Grecian  bride.  The 
indignant  Hildegarde  shut  herself  up  in 
one  of  the  loneliest  chambers  of  the  castle. 
Late  one  night  a  stranger  knight  craved 
shelter,  who  proved  to  be  the  brother 
Heinrich,  who,  hearing  the  wrongs  of  his 
outraged  sister,  challenged  his  brother  to 
mortal  combat ;  but  Hildegarde  insisted  on 
a  reconciliation,  and  soon  after,  Conrad's 
bride  proving  faithless,  Hildegarde  retired 
to  the  convent  of  Bornhofen,  and  the  two 
brothers  lived  ever  after  in  harmony  and 
affection. 

On  the  left  we  pass  Wefmick,  with  the 
ancient  Castle  of  Thurnberg.  On  the  op- 
posite side  St.  Goar  (Hotel,  Hheinftls),  with 
the  Ctistlf,  end  Furtress  of  It  h(  in  ft  Is.  At  the 
present  time  it  l>elongs  to  the  King  of  Prus- 
sia, and  is  one  of  the  most  imposing  ruins 
on  the  river.  It  was  founded  in  1245  br 
Count  Diether  III.  of  Katzenelnbogen,  for 
the  purpose  of  collecting  an  increased 
Rhine  toll :  a  confederation  of  Rheni.-h 
towns  determined  to  resist  the  tax,  and 
1  tin-  c-a-tl?  unsuccessful!}'  for  tit- 
teen  months.  In  lt">9'2  it  was  successfullv 
defended  against  the  French ;  but  was  capt- 
ured by  them  in  1758,  in  whose  possess! •<•: 
687 


OBERWESEL. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BACHARACH. 


it  remained  five  years.  It  was  again  taken 
by  the  French  revolutionary  forces  in  1794. 
Three  years  after  it  was  blown  up  and 
sold  for  £300. 

The  Castle  of  Xi-u-Katzenelnbogen,  known 
as  the  "Cat,71  is  situated  behind  St.  Goar, 
and  was  erected  by  Count  Johann  of  Kat- 
zenelnbogen  in  1393.  It  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  French  in  1794,  who  razed  its 
fortifications. 

Three  miles  up  the  Swiss  valley  stands 
the  Castle  of  Reicheriberg,  built  in  1284 ;  de- 
stroyed soon  after;  then  restored  by  the 
Elector  of  Treves,  and  again  destroyed  by 
Tilly  during  the  Thirty-years'  War. 

On  our  right  is  the  celebrated  echo  rock 
Lorelei,  rising  450  feet  perpendicularly 
above  the  Rhine.  There  is  an  old  romance 
that  a  siren  who  dwelt  here  used  to  lure  fish- 
ermen and  sailors  to  her  abode  at  the  top, 
and  then  dash  them  headlong  to  destruc- 
tion. The  echo  is  repeated  a  great  many 
times.  The  German  students  amuse  them- 
selves by  asking  the  rock,  "Who  is  the 
burgomaster  of  Oberwesel?"  (the  adjoining 
town)  ;  the  question  is  repeated,  but  only 
the  termination  is  heard,  "Esel,"  which 
means  ass  in  German.  The  mountain  is 
penetrated  by  the  railway  tunnel. 

Obenoesel,  on  the  right,  is  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  villages  on  the  Rhine. 
Hotel,  Goldentr  Pfropfenzieher,  "  Golden 
Corkscrew."  The  sign,  painted  by  a  Diis- 
seldorf  painter,  is  kept  in  the  coffee-room. 
Thetowu  is  surroundedbytowers  and  walls, 
and  was  once  a  free  town  of  the  empire. 

The  church  of  Our  Lady  is  a  beautifully 
proportioned  Gothic  building,  erected  early 
in  the  15th  century.  The  old  wood-carv- 
ings of  the  high-altar  are  very  fine.  A 
portion  of  the  altar-piece  in  the  north 
chapel  represents  the  landing  of  the  11,000 
Virgins. 

Behind  this  church,  on  an  elevation, 
is  situated  the  Castle  ofSchomberg,  destroy- 
ed by  Louis  XIV.  in  1689.  This  was  the 
ancient  seat  of  the  celebrated  counts  of 
Schomberg,  one  of  whom  was  a  general  of 
the  Prince  of  Orange,  and  was  killed  in 
Ireland  at  the  celebrated  battle  of  the 
Boyne.  He  was  afterward  interred  in 
Westminster  Abbey. 

Back  of  the  small  town  of  Caub,  on  our 
ri.ccht,  rises  the  stately  Castle  of  Gutenfels, 
where  in  1257  the  Duke  of  Cornwall,  broth- 
er of  Henrv  III.  of  England,  and  Emperor 
688 


of  German}',  married  the  beautiful  Count- 
ess of  Falkenstein.  In  1804  it  became  the 
property  of  the  Duke  of  Nassau,  was  dis- 
mantled by  Napoleon  in  1805,  and  in  1807 
finally  abandoned. 

Nearly  opposite  in  the  river  rises  a 
small  island,  on  which  is  built  a  singular 
castle.  It  is  called  the  1'falz,  and  was 
erected  by  the  Emperor  Lewis  of  Bavaria, 
at  the  commencement  of  the  12th  century, 
as  a  toll-house  for  exacting  tribute  from 
passing  vessels.  It  was  on  this  little  isl- 
and that  Louis  Le  Debonnaire  retired  to  die 
in  840,  wearied  with  the  world  and  tired  of 
the  cares  of  his  empire ;  and  here  the  Count- 
esses Palatine  always  repaired  previous  to 
their  accouchemeuts,  that  they  might  be 
secure  and  quiet  during  that  period  of 
their  lives  from  the  turbulence  of  the  out- 
er world. 

Bacharach — so  called  from  Bacchi  Ari, 
the  Altar  of  Bacchus — is  situated  on  the 
right  as  we  ascend,  and  has  a  most  pict- 
uresque appearance,  surrounded  by  walls 
and  towers.  The  town  received  its  name 
from  a  rock  in  the  river,  generally  cover- 
ed with  water,  but  in  dry  seasons  (which 
is  best  for  the  culture  of  the  grape)  the 
rock  is  exposed,  which  is  a  sure  barometer 
to  the  wine-grower.  The  town  was  early 
celebrated  for  its  wine,  and  Pope  Pius  II. 
had  annually  a  cask  of  the  wine  of  Bacha- 
rach sent  to  Rome ;  the  town  of  Nurem- 
berg obtained  its  freedom  from  the  Em- 
peror Wenzel  by  paying  a  tribute  of  four 
casks  of  this  wine  every  year. 

The  church  of  St.  Peter  is  a  remarkable 
specimen  of  the  Romanesque  style,  back 
of  which  stands  the  ruin  of  St.  Werner's 
Church,  erected  in  the  loth  century  to  com- 
memorate the  canonization  of  a  boy  called 
Werner,  who  was  said  to  have  been  mur- 
dered by  the  Jews.  Behind  it  rise  the 
ruins  of  the  Castle  ofStahleck,  formerly  the 
seat  of  the  Electors  Palatine.  It  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  French  in  1680.  and  is  now  the 
property  of  the  Dowager  Queen  of  Prussia. 

Up  the  adjacent  valley  are  the  ruins  of 
the  Cattle  of  Stahlberg. 

On  our  right  we  pass  the  round  tower 
of  the  ancient  Castle  of  Ffirstenberg,  de- 
stroyed by  the  French  in  1689.  When  the 
Emperor  Adolph  was  on  his  way  to  his 
coronation  at  Cologne,  the  occupants  of 
this  castle  had  the  impudence  to  demand 
toll,  which  being  refused  his  vessel  was 


LORCH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


EHRENFELS. 


fired  on  by  the  retainers.  It  was  besieged 
and  captured  in  1321  by  the  Emperor  Lewi?, 
who  p resented  it  to  his  queen,  Margaret  of 
Holland. 

Lorch  (Hotel,  Schu-an)  dates  from  the 
9th  century.  This  town  was  at  one  time 
the  residence  of  the  noble  families  of  the 
Ithfingau.  It  is  situated  on  our  left  as  we 
ascend,  at  the  mouth  of  the  picturesque 
valley  of  the  H'w/>er.  The  old  church  con- 
tains numerous  objects  of  interest,  among 
others  a  carved  altar,  font,  and  monument 
to  John  UHchen,  field-marshal,  who  distin- 
guished himself  against  the  French  and 
Turks. 

On  the  left  is  the  village  of  Niederheim- 
bach,  above  which  is  the  ruined  Castle  of 
J/>  imlurg.  Higher  up,  where  the  valley 
of  ilie  Rhine  contracts,  is  the  picturesque 
tower  of  Soaneck.  It  belonged  originally 
to  a  robber  castle  built  to  guard  the  en- 
trance to  the  valley.  It  was  dismantled 
by  the  Emperor  Rudolph,  and  is  now  the 
property  of  the  royal  family  of  Prussia. 

On  our  right  we  juiss  the  village  of 
Trtcfttings/iau.<fn,  beyond  which  rise  the 
ruins  of  t'a'kenJjitrg.  a  very  ancient  castle, 
built  by  a  robber-knight.  Philip  von  Ho- 
henfels.  It  was  dismantled  by  the  Rhen- 
ish Confederation  of  Towns  :  but  again  re- 
stored by  its  owner,  who  again  commenced 
his  depredatory  excursions,  when  it  was 
again  besieged  by  the  Emperor  Rudolph, 
and  its  owner  consigned  to  the  gallows. 

Assmannshdnsen,  on  the  left,  noted  for 
its  celebrated  red  wines,  near  which  nu- 
merous Roman  baths  have  been  discovered. 

On  the  opposite  bank  rises  the  cele- 
brated Ctiftle  nf  Jlheiii.tffin.  Origin  un- 
known.but  dating  back  to  the  llth  century. 
In  1348  it  was  the  property  of  the  Von 
Falkensteins.  Between  1825  and  1829  it 
was  rebuilt  by  Prince  Frederick  of  Prussia, 
whose  remains  are  interred  in  a  side  chapel. 
The  castle  is  furnished  and  decorated  to 
resemble  that  of  a  castle  of  olden  times. 
Paintings,  armor,  painted -glass  windows, 
etc.  It  is  shown  freely  to  strangers.  Fee, 
one  person,  1  mark  ;  party,  '2  marks. 

The  Clemenskirchf,  close  by,  was  aldo  re- 
stored bv  Prince  Frederick. 


THE  RHEINGAU. 

Whoever   visits   the   Rhine   must  feel 
sensible  of  the  beauty  of  its  vineyards, 


covering  steep  and  shore,  interlacing  with 
the  most  romantic  ruins.  Nowhere  is  the 
fondness  for  vine  cultivation  more  evident 
in  ever}'  grade  and  class  of  farmer  than  in 
the  Rhenish  wine  districts.  The  humblest 
peasant  has  his  square  yard  of  vineyard, 
and  every  accessible  spot,  it  will  be  seen, 
is  decorated  with  the  favorite  plant.  From 
Mayencc  to  Coblentz,  and  from  the  latter 
city  to  Bonn,  the  country  is  covered  with 
vineyards. 

The  true  Hochheimer  -wine,  from  which 
is  derived  and  erroneously  used  the  name 
"Hock,"  which  is  applied  to  all  German 

!  wines,  is  grown  to  the  eastward  of  May- 
ence,  at  Hochheim,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Main,  between  that  place  and  Frankfort. 
The  town  stands  in  the  midst  of  vineyards. 
The  whole  produce  is  only  twelve  large 
casks,  which  sell  on  the  spot  for  $800  per 
cask.  The  property  is  divided  among  sev- 
eral owners.  The  whole  eastern  bank  (the 
left  bank  as  we  ascend)  of  the  Rhine  to  the 
Rheingau,  throughout  its  entire  extent, 
has  been  remarkable  for  its  wines  during 

|  many  centuries.  In  fact,  the  whole  dis- 
trict is  a  delicious  wine-garden.  The  cult- 

]  ure  of  the  vine  was  introduced  here  by 
the  Emperor  Probus. 

A  very  erroneous  conception  exists  in  re~ 

'  gard  to  the  respective  qualities  of  the  wine 
grown  on  the  Rhine  or  in  the  Rheingau, 
and  on  the  authority  of  a  gentleman  whom 
we  consider  the  first  judge  of  Rhine  wines, 
we  give  them  in  the  following  order, 
viz.,  first,  Rudesheimer  Berg,  Johannisberg, 
Steinberger,  Jtautntkaler,  Marcobrunner, 
and  Hochheimer.  Of  the  second  order, 
Geisenhtimer,  Oestricher  Winket,  etc.  Of 
the  sparkling  wines,  the  "Pearl  of  the 
Rhine,"  Hiirter  &  Son,  Coblentz,  is  the 
best- 
Above  Rheinstein,  on  the  opposite  bank, 
rise  the  ruins  of  Ehrenfels,  founded  by  the 
governor  of  the  Rheingau  in  1210.  It  was 
the  frequent  residence  and  stronghold  of 
the  archbishops  of  Mayence,  who  generally 
retired  here  with  their  treasures  in  danger- 
ous times.  It  was  stormed  by  the  Swedes 
in  1635,  also  during  the  Thirty-years'  War, 
and  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689. 
Here  lie  the  celebrated  slopes  of  t\\z  R'udes- 
kdmer  fiery,  where  the  surface  is  raised 
terrace  above  terrace.  It  is  said  that 
Charlemagne,  observing  from  his  castle  at 
IngeiAdm  that  the  snow  first  melted  here, 
689 


EHRENFELS. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


ordered  the  vines  to  be  brought  from  Or- 
leans and  planted  on  this  spot. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  oppo- 
site the  Castle  of  Ehrenfels,  is  a  small 
square  tower,  immortalized  by  Southey  in 
the  following  tradition : 

"BISHOP  HATTO. 

"  The  summer  and  autumn  hath  been  so  wet, 
That  in  winter  the  corn  was  growing  yet ; 
•Twas  a  piteous  sight  to  see  all  around 
The  grain  lie  rotting  on  the  ground. 

"Every  flay  the  starving  poor 
Crowded  around  Bishop  Hatto's  door, 
For  he  had  a  plentifal  last  year's  store; 
And  all  the  neighborhood  could  tell 
His  granaries  were  furnish' d  well. 

"  At  last  Bishop  Hatto  appointed  a  day 
To  quiet  the  poor  without  delay  : 
He  bade  them  to  his  great  barn  repair, 
And  they  should  have   food  for  the  winter 
there. 

"  Rejoiced  at  such  tidings,  good  to  hear, 
The  poor  folk  flock'd  from  far  and  near ; 
The  great  barn  was  full  as  it  could  hold 
Of  women  and  children,  and  young  and  old. 

"  Then,  when  he  saw  it  could  hold  no  more. 
Bishop  Hatto  he  made  fast  the  door ; 
And  while  for  mercy  on  Christ  they  call, 
He  set  fire  to  the  barn  and  burnt  them  all. 

" '  I'  faith,  'tis  an  excellent  bonfire  :*  quoth  he, 
'  And  the  country  is  greatly  obliged  to  me 
For  ridding  it,  in  these  times  forlorn, 
Of  rats  that  only  consume  the  corn.' 

"  So  then  to  his  palace  returned  he, 
And  he  sat  down  to  his  supper  merrily, 
And  he  slept  that  night  like  an  innocent  man  ; 
But  Bishop  Hatto  never  slept  again. 

"In  the  morning,  as  he  enter'd  the  hall, 
Where  his  picture  hung  against  the  wall, 
A  sweat  like  death  all  o'er  him  cam"1, 
For  the  rats  had  eaten  it  out  of  the  frame. 

"  As  he  look'd  there  came  a  man  from  his  farm ; 
He  had  a  countenance  white  with  alarm. 
'My  lord,  I  open'd  your  granaries  this  morn, 
And  the  rats  had  eaten  all  your  corn.' 

"Another  came  running  presently, 
And  he  was  as  pale  as  pale  could  be  : 
<•  Fly !  my  lord  bishop,  fly,'  quoth  he  ; 
'  Ten  thousand  rats  are  coming  this  way; 
Th«  Lord  forgive  you  for  yesterday!' 

"  I'll  go  to  my  tower  on  the  Rhine,'  replied  he; 
'Tis  the  safest  place  in  Germany; 
The  walls  are  high,  and  the  shores  are  steep, 
And  the  stream  is  strong,  and  the  water  deep !' 

"  Bishop  Hatto  fearfully  hasten- d  away, 
And  he  cross' d  thft  Shlae  without  delay, 
And  reach'd  Ilia  tower,  and  barrM  with  care 
All  the  windows,  doors,  and  loop-holes  there. 

"  He  laid  him  down,  and  closed  his  eyes ; 
But  soon  a  scream  made  him  arise ; 
He  started,  and  saw  two  eyes  of  flame 
On  his   pillow,  from  whence  the  screaming 
came. 

"He  listen'd  and  look'd:  it  was  only  the  cat, 
But  the  bishop  he  grew  more  fearful  for  that; 
690 


BiNGEN 


For  she  sat  screaming,  mad  with  fear, 
At  the  army  of  rats  that  were  drawing  near. 
'•  For  they  have  swum  over  the  river  so  deep, 
And  they  have  climb'd  the  shores  so  steep, 
And  now,  by  thousands,  up  they  crawl 
To  the  holes  and  windows  in  th-j  wall. 
"  Down  on  his  knees  the  bishop  fell. 
And  faster  and  faster  his  bends  did  he  tell, 
As  louder  and  louder,  drawing  near, 
The  saw  of  their  teeth  without  he  could  her.r. 
"And  in  at  the  windows,  and  in  at  the  door, 
And  through   the  walls   by  thousands   the? 

pour, 
And  down  through  the  ceiling,  and  up  through 

the  floor, 
From  the  right  and  the  left,  from  behind  and 

before, 
From  within  and  without,  from  above  and  b2- 

low — 

And  all  at  once  to  the  bishop  they  go. 
"They  have  whetted  their  teeth   against  ths 

stones, 

And  now  they  pick  the  bishop's  bones ; 
They  gnaw'd  the  flesh  from  every  limb, 
For  they  were  sent  to  do  judgment  on  him." 

It  is  presumed  that  M"nttJinrm  was  cor- 
rupted into  Mouse  Tower,  instead  of  Tower 
of  Customs  ;  and  some  practical,  unro- 
mantic  people  pretend  that  Southey  was 
•wrong,  and  that  the  tower  was  built  two 
hundred  years  after  Bishop  Hatto's  death. 

The  River  Nuhe  here  enters  the  Rhine, 
and  is  crossed  by  an  iron  bridge.  There  is  a 
ferry  across  the  river  from  Bingen  to  Riides- 
heim.  On  a  terrace  above  Riidesheim  stands 
a  magnificent  bronze  statue,  the  "  Germa* 
nz'a,"  unveiled  by  the  Emperor  in  1883. 

Bingen  is  situated  on  the  right  in  ascend- 
ingthe  river, and  forms  the  frontier  between 
Hesse  and  Prussia.  Hotel :  Victoria,  a  very 
good  house,  directly  facing  the  river  and  the 
"  Germania  "  monument. 

The  scenery  of  the  neighborhood  is  par- 
ticularly beautiful  at  this  place.  Bingen 
contains  7100  inhabitants,  and  does  consid- 
erable trade  in  wines.  It  was  the  junction 
of  two  Roman  roads ;  one  to  Treves,  the 
other  to  Cologne. 

Back  of  the  town  rise  the  ruins  of  the 
castle  of  Kl< >pp,  which  was  destroyed  by  the 
French  in  1689.  The  ruins  are  entered 
from  the  gardens  of  ihc  White  JJor.-e  Hotel; 
fee,  7  g.  Beautiful  view  of  the  surround- 
ings. 

On  the  hill  above  Bingen  is  situated  the 
chapel  of  St.  Koch,  where  on  the  16th 
of  August  thousands  of  pilgrims  offer  up 
their  devotions.  On  the  slope  below  is 
Hotel  Hartmann,  grape-cure. 

[An  excursion  should  be  made  from  Bin- 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


KREUZNACH. 

gen  to  Kreuznach  or  Saarbruck,  or  through 
to  .Ifetz. 

From  Saarbruck  to  Metz,  see  Route  No. 
182. 

Time  to  Saarbruck,  3  h.20  m. ;  thence 
to  Met/,  1  li.  32  in.  Fare  to  Saarbruck, 
lirst  class,  12  marks  4  g.  ;  second  class, 
(>  mark-  '_'  sr. 

I'.i-sinj;  through  the  beautiful  valley  of 
t!u-  \'i/t",  ten  miles  from  Bingen  is  the 
station  and  watering-place  of 

Krfuznach. — Hotel,  Knrhnus  Hotel,  with 
restaurant  connected  with  the  Kurhaus. 
Mr.  John  Barter  has  a  private  hotel, 
t;o;»  Kurhausstrasse,  highly  recommended. 
Kreuznach  is  situated  in  a  most  charming 
position,  and  has  lately  become  quite  cele- 
brated for  the  medicinal  properties  of  its 
waters,  which  are  beneficial  in  female  com- 
plaints and  scrofula. 

The  springs  rise  mostly  in  and  near  an 
island  on  the  Nahe,  where  there  is  a  A'wr- 
kaiis,  with  a  bathing  establishment,  hotel 
and  restaurant,  with  accommodation  for 
guests  at  reasonable  rates,  assembly  and 
reading  rooms,  where  some  eight  thousand 
invalids  annually  gather  during  the  season, 
morning  and  evening,  to  drink  the  water 
from  the  Elizabeth-Bnmnen.  Here,  also, 
are  situated  the  brine  baths. 

There  is  a  church  situated  on  tne  isfand, 
erected  in  1768  to  replace  one  of  an  earlier 
period,  some  remains  of  which  still  exist ; 
near  which  stands  a  statue  erected  to  Dr. 
Prieger,  who  died  in  18C3. 

On  the  northwest  side  of  the  town  rises  the 
Schlossberg,  with  the  ruined  castle  of  Kau- 
zenbery,  erected  by  the  Prince  of  Sponheim, 
and  afterward  the  property  of  the  Electors 
Palatine.  In  lfi:>2  the  town  was  taken  by 
Gustavus  Adolphus. 

•  There  are  numerous  excursions  from 
Kreuznach  :  viz.,  to  the  castles  of  Dissibo- 
••//,  in  3  hours  ;  to  the  ruins  of  Mont- 
fort,  2  hours ;  and  to  Ebernburg,  by  Gatts 
and  J-thi.-inyraJ'enateln,  in  3  hours.  Also  to 
the  salt-mines  of  Theodoi-shalle,  one  mile 
from  the  town. 

Miiitstcr-am-Stem  (hotel,  Kurhaus),  an- 
other salt-mine  belonging  to  Prussia  ;  also 
saline  baths.  At  this  point  the  h'/iciiiyrii/ii-it- 
ttein,  a  cliff  of  porphyry,  rises  perpendicu- 
larly 450  feet  above  the  Nahe.  A  short 
distance  from  this,  to  the  west,  is  situated 


WlNKEU 


the  /-:tiernbury,  a  castle  which  belonged  to 
the;  knight-arrant  Franz  von  Sickingen, 
who  was  at  one  time  so  powerful  that  he 
besieged  Metz  and  Treves  with  an  army  of 
•J(). lino.  The  castle  was  the  asylum  for 
bandits,  outlaws,  and  fugitives;  also  for 
many  of  the  early  Reformers.  An  inn  is 
situated  in  the  ruins,  which  contains  nu- 
merous relics.  The  castle  was  fortified  by 
the  French  in  1689,  but  after  the  Peace  of 
Kyswick  was  dismantled. 

The  other  towns  of  Staudernheim,  So- 
bcnihi-iin,  Munziiiyen,  and  Oblerstein  arc 
small  unimportant  places,  with  absolutely 
nothing  to  interest  the  traveler.] 

From  Rudesheim,  opposite  Bingen,  there 
is  a  line  of  railway  to  Biebrich,  opposite 
Mayencc,  in  1  hour. 

Geisenheim,  on  the  left,  is  a  town  of  2500 
inhabitants,  distinguished  by  the  two  Goth- 
ic towers  which  surmount  its  old  church, 
restored  in  1836. 

\\'inkel  station,  on  the  same  side,  where 
Charlemagne's  wine-cellars  were  situated, 
and  Oestrich,  both  give  names  to  noted 
wines. 

To  our  left,  on  an  eminence,  is  situated 
the  celebrated  castle  of  Johannisbe ry,  cel- 
ebrated because  the  Johannisberger  once 
took  the  lead  in  the  wines  of  the  Rhine ; 
but  previous  to  1867  the  sequestration  of 
the  castle  from  Prince  Metternich  for  the 
payment  of  many  years'  arrears  of  taxes 
due  to  the  state  of  Nassau,  and  which  the 
prince  repudiated,  in  some  degree  preju- 
diced the  vineyard  ;  and  the  great  care  and 
energy  displayed  afterward  in  the  manage- 
ment of  the  vineyard  of  Steinberg,  owned 
by  the  Duke  of  Nassau,  caused  that  wine 
to  bring  the,  same  price  as  the  Johan- 
nisberger. The  extent  of  the  Johannis- 
berger vineyard  is  38  acres  ;  that  is,  of 
the  first-class  wine  ;  the  yearly  proceeds 
amount  to  $40,000.  This  favored  spot  was 
once  the  property  of  the  Church,  and  also 
of  the  Prince  of  Orange.  Napoleon  pre- 
sented it  to  General  Kellermann.  After 
the  downfall  of  Napoleon  it  was  presented 
to  Prince  Metternich  by  the  Emperor  of 
Austria.  The  highest  price  ever  paid  was 
$5  50  per  bottle  on  the  spot,  but  two  mon- 
archs  were  the  purchasers.  The  Johan- 
nisbcrger  and  Steinberger  wines  are  sold 
ever}'  year  at  auction  in  casks  of  1200  or 
600  litres.  In  good  years  the  Prince  of 
691 


ERBACII. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MAYEXCE. 


Metternich  reserves  several  casks,  which  are 
bottled  five  or  six  years  later.  These  wines 
are  sold  for  from  3  to  20  florins  per  bottle ; 
they  are  of  equal  value  and  merit ;  the  Jo- 
hannisberger  is  distinguished  for  its  great 
freshness  and  bouquet,  and  the  Steinberger 
for  its  body,  warmth,  and  peculiar  aroma. 
To  visit  the  castle  a  fee  of  2  marks  is  ex- 
pected for  a  party,  and  in  the  cellars  you 
are  expected  to  drink  a  bottle  of  wine, 
costing  anywhere  from  two  to  ten  dollars. 

Passing  the  island  of  Sandau,  connected 
with  the  left  bank,  and  between  Westpha- 
lian  and  Rheinau,  is  the  Mtirkbrunuen,  near 
which  is  the  celebrated  vineyard  of  Marco- 
brunner,  one  of  the  finest  of  the  Rhenish 
wines. 

Erbach,  on  the  left,  in  front  of  which  lies 
the  island  of  Rhtinau,  the  property  of  the 
Princess  Marianne  of  the  Netherlands. 
The  chateau  of  Rheinhurdtshausen.  in  the 
village,  also  belongs  to  that  princess,  and 
is  shown  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday. 

A  wide  path  leads,  in  one  hour,  from 
Erbach  to  the  Cistercian  abbey  ofEbtrbach, 
founded  by  St.Bernhard  of  Clairvaux  in  the 
12th  century.  The  refectory  now  contains 
the  wine-presses  for  the  celebrated  Stein- 
berg wine,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  in 
the  Rheingau,  and  here  the  famous  cabinet 
wines  were  formerly  kept.  The  Steinberg 
vineyard  comprises  60  acres,  and  since  the 
12th  century  has  been  cultivated  by  the 
monks  of  Eberbach.  Farther  up  the  val- 
ley is  situated  the  noted  lunatic  asylum  of 
Eichberg. 

Eltmlle,  formerly  the  capital  of  the 
Rheingau.  Hotel,  Keiseiibuch.  It  contains 
3100  inhabitants,  and  is  well  situated  in 
the  midst  of  the  finest  vineyards  of  the 
Rhine.  It  is  surrounded  by  numerous 
handsome  country  residences. 

It  was  here  that  the  German  king  Giin- 
ther  resigned  to  his  opponent,  Charles  IV., 
in  1349.  There  are  some  ruins  left  of  the 
castle  built  by  Baldwin,  archbishop  of 
Treves,  in  the  14th  century,  and  here  one 
of  the  first  printing-presses  was  established 
in  1465. 

About  two  miles  northwest  of  Eltville 
lies  the  village  of  Kiedrich,  formerly  a 
place  of  great  resort  for  pilgrims  to  the 
ehurch  of  St.  Valentine.  The  church  of  St. 
Michael,  built  in  1440,  and  restored  in  1858, 
well  deserves  a  visit. 

A  short  distance  from  Kiedrich  is  the 
692 


celebrated  vineyard  of  Grafenberg,  one  of 
the  best  in  the  Rheingau. 

During  the  season  a  diligence  runs  to 

[  ScJdangenbad  in  one  hour,  and  in  two  hours 

to  Schicalbach,  two  noted  watering-places. 

(See  excursion  from  Wiesbaden  to  Ems. 

Route  No.  184.) 

On   the  left  lies  Nieder-Walluff.  about 
|  four  miles  from  which  is  the  famous  vine- 


Biebricfi, on  our  left  (whence  passengers 
disembark  for  Wiesbaden,  Frankfort,  and 
Homburg.  To  Wiesbaden,  10  minutes:  and 
to  Frankfort,  1  h.  10  in.).  Hutd  de  I'  Europe 
and  Rhtinischtr  Hof.  The  Chateau  was  the 
former  summer  residence  of  the  dukes  of 
Nassau  previous  to  its  sequestration  by  the 
King  of  Prussia  in  1866.  It  is  a  hand- 
some structure,  built  of  red  sandstone. 
The  gardens  are  large,  and  open  to  the 
public,  and  there  may  be  seen,  in  a  min- 
iature castle,  a  collection  of  Roman  an- 
tiquities. 

On  our  right,  a  little  above  Biebrich,  is 
Muyence,  or  Mainz.  Principal  hotel  is  the 
D'Angleterre,  facing  the  Rhine,  and  rank. 
ing  very  high. 

Mayence  is  the  largest  town  in  the  for- 
mer Grand-Duchy  of  Hesse-Darmstadt.  It 
was  annexed  to  Prussia  in  1866.  It  con- 
tains a  population  of  56,000,  including  the 
garrison,  which  consisted  of  7000  soldiers 
previous  to  its  Prussian  annexation.  Its 
fortifications  are  of  great  strength.  Abridge 
of  boats,  upward  of  sixteen  hundred  feet 
loniT,  connects  the  town  with  the  suburbs 
of  Castel  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Rhine. 
A  permanent  railway  bridge  was  also  con- 
structed  in  1862  across  the  river  to  the 
fortress  of  Muinspitse,  1200  feet  long,  over 
which  run  the  trains  to  Frankfort.  The 
cost  was  nearly  one  and  a  half  million 
dollars.  Mayence  is  a  city  of  great  an- 
tiquity. It  was  founded  by  Drusus  14 
years  B.C.  It  was  the  seat  of  the  first 
German  archbishop,  St.  Boniface  (751). 
Under  Charlemagne  and  his  successors  it 
became  the  first  ecclesiastical  city  of  the 
Roman  Empire.  In  modern  times  it  became 
celebrated  for  the  memorable  siege  it  en- 
dured, when  it  was  successfully  defended 
by  the  French  troops  who  garrisoned  it. 

The  Museum  is  situated  in  the  Kurfurst- 
liche  Schloss,  and  contains  a  small  collec- 
tion of  paintings  and  Roman  antiquities. 
Fee,  50  pf.  ;  Wednesdays  free. 


MAYENCE. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


WlESBADEX 


The  town  library  contains  100,000  vol- 
umes and  some  valuable  MSS. 

The  Grossherzogliche  Schloss  was  occu- 
pied by  Napoleon  I. ;  it  is  now  inhabited 
by  the  governor  of  the  fortress.  A  barrack 
and  arsenal  are  also  situated  in  the  Schloss- 
platz. 

The  Xeue  A  nlage,  or  Public  Gardens,  sit- 
uated outside  the  walls,  should  be  visited. 
There  is  a  lovely  promenade  thence  to  the 
railway  bridge,  where  the  visitor  can  as- 
cend one  of  the  towers  (fee,  12  kr.),  and 
obtain  a  charming  view  of  Mayence  and 
the  river. 

In  Schillerplatz  stands  a  bronze  statue 
of  Schiller,  erected  in  1862.  The  pillar  of 
the  fountain  was  brought  from  the  palace 
of  Charlemagne  at  Ingelheim. 

The  Cemetery,  on  the  heights,  contains 
some  fine  monuments. 

Among  the  principal  edifices  of  May- 
ence, which  are  of  great  antiquity,  is  the 
Cathedral,  a  vast  pile  of  red  sandstone 
buildings,  begun  in  the  10th  and  finished 
in  the  llth  century;  it  has  suffered  con- 
siderable damage  at  different  times,  hav- 
ing been  burned  by  the  Prussians  in  1783, 
and  used  as  a  barrack  by  the  French  in 
1813.  The  interior  is  tilled  with  the  mon- 
uments of  the  different  Electors  of  May- 
ence. who  always  presided  at  the  election 
of  the  emperor,  and  were  the  archbishops 
and  first  princes  of  the  German  Empire.  It 
is  open  to  11.30  A.M.,  and  from  2  to  G  P.M. 
To  ascend  the  tower,  ring  at  the  door  south 
of  the  transept ;  fee,  1  mark. 

The  church  of  St.  Etienne,  a  Gothic  edi- 
fice dating  from  the  14th  century,  stands 
in  an  elevated  position  above  the  city.  It 
suffered  by  an  explosion  of  gunpowder  in 
1857,  but  has  been  restored,  and  contains 
some  fine  monuments  of  the  Middle  Ages. 

The  Citadel  occupies  the  position  of  an 
ancient  Roman  camp,  and  here  the  traveler 
may  ascend  the  Tower  of  Druxus,  who  was 
son-in-law  of  Augustus,  and  founder  of  the 
city  ;  this  tower  is  supposed  to  be  his  tomb. 
A  soldier  will  accompany  the  visitor  (fee, 
a  half-mark. 

The  site  formerly  occupied  by  the  dwell- 
ing-house of  Gutenberg,  the  inventor  of 
printing,  a  native  of  the  town,  will  be  seen 
with  interest.  An  excellent  statue,  mod- 
eled by  Thorwaldsen,  stands  in  an  open 
area  opposite  the  theatre. 

Mainz  to  Paris,  13  h.,  via  Saarbruck, 


16f  h.,  rift  Cologne  (sleeping-car);  fare, 
67  marks,  I  otli  ways; — to  London,  via  Co- 
logne and  Ostende ;  time,  12J  h. ;  fare,  82 
marks  40  pf. ; — to  Cologne,  Coblcntz,  Wiesba- 
den, Frankfort,  Heidelberg,  etc.,  see  p.  695. 

Wiesbaden. — Hotels:  Rose (t Bains,  Hotel 
et  Villa  Xassau,  four  Seasons,  and  Rhine. 
Rose,  a  splendid  large  establishment,  sur- 
rounded by  its  own  gardens,  opposite  the 
Kursaal  and  promenade,  with  an  elegant 
bath-house.  The  Hotel  et  Villa  Nassau,  in 
a  beautiful  position  opposite  the  Kurhaus, 
promenade,  etc.,  enjoy  a  European  reputa- 
tion ;  spring  and  electric  baths  in  the  house. 
Goetz  Brothers  are  the  proprietors.  Hotel 
Four  Seasons,  a  first-class  house,  on  the  cor- 
ner of  the  promenade  and  the  square  facing 
the  Kursaal  (one  of  the  finest  positions),  has 
a  large  bath-establishment,  and  is  ably  man- 
aged by  Mr.  Zais.  The  Rhine  is  a  favorite, 
first-class  house,  close  to  the  promenade  and 
the  station. 

On  the  Heidenberg,  north  of  the  town,  re- 
mains of  a  Roman  fortress  were  discovered 
in  1838,  with  fragments  of  walls  and  towers, 
and  many  implements  of  war,  now  in  the  mu- 
seum. According  to  the  inscriptions,  the 
camp  was  garrisoned  by  the  14th  and  22d 
legions. 

This  watering-place,  by  virtue  of  its  salu- 
brious climate  and  the  curative  properties  of 
its  mineral  springs,  has  long  been  a  house- 
hold word  with  Englishmen  and  Americans. 

Wiesbaden  lies  in  one  of  the  side  valleys 
of  the  Rheingau,  the  fairest  portion  of  the 
Rhine,  and  is  some  360  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  It  is  almost  entirely  sheltered 
from  the  colder  winds,  the  temperature  of 
the  entire  neighborhood  being  considerably 
higher,  and  with  fewer  atmospheric  changes 
than  other  places  in  the  same  latitude.  For 
these  reasons  Wiesbaden  is  gaining  in  favor 
a<  a  winter  residence.  Its  environs  are  un- 
surpassed for  delightful  walks  and  carriage 
drives.  In  summer  the  gardens  attached  to 
the  Kursaal,  and  the  park,  which  extends  as 
far  as  the  village  of  Sonnenberg,  with  its 
picturesque  ruins,  abound  in  beautiful  spots, 
rare  trees,  and  flowers.  Here,  also,  concerts 
by  the  celebrated  municipal  orchestra  and 
military  bands,  as  well  as  many  festivities 
and  entertainments,  take  place. 

Including  the  great  Kochbrunnen  (boil- 
ing spring),  Wiesbaden  has  no  less  than  23 
hot  springs,  yielding  61  cubic  feet  of  water 
per  minute.  The  diseases  which,  by  the  in- 
693 


WIESBADEN. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


WIESBADEN. 


ternal,  external,  or  joint  use  of  the  water,may!  the  choir  from  the  body  of  the  church.  The 


be  cured,  are  chronic  catarrh  of  the  stomach 
and  intestines,  rheumatism  and  gout,  chron- 
ic disturbances  of  the  glands,  diseases  of  the 
bones,  shot  wounds,  female  diseases,  ner- 
vous complaints,  diseases  of  the  organs  of 
the  chest,  of  the  skin,  etc. 

There  are  24  thermal  bath-houses,  con- 
taining 900  baths,  with  all  modern  improve- 
ments andcomforts,  together  with  many  oth- 
er establishments  where  electric,  Roman, 


sarcophagus  of  the  duchess  is  in  white  mar- 
ble, the  effigy  being  surrounded  by  statu- 
ettes of  the  twelve  Apostles  ;  at  the  corners 
are  figures  of  Faith,  Hope,  Charity,  and 
Immortality.  The  custodian  expects  a  fee 
of  1  florin;  he  lives  near  by. 

The  view  from  the  chapel  is  beautiful. 

On  the  opposite  slope  lies  the  Centetrrij, 
which  contains  some  handsome  monuments, 
among  which  is  that  of  Gen.  von  Baring, 


Irish,  Russian,  Turkish,  vapor,  and  all  other  who  defended  La  llaye  Sainte  at  Waterloo, 
varieties  of  baths  can  be  had.     There  are       An  excursion  should  be  made  to  Platte, 
milk,  whey,  cold-water,  and  grape-cure  es- 
tablishments, the  latter  directly  managed  by 
the  Municipal  Cure  Administration,  which 
also  superintenJs  the  bottling  of  the  Koch- 
brunnen  water  and  the  manufacture  of  Koch- 
brunnen  lozenges,  salt,  soap,  etc.,  for  use 
abroad. 

Wiesbaden  has  an  English  church,  Eng- 
lish and  German  resident  physicians,  excel- 
lent schools,  theatre  royal,  with  opera  and 
ballet,  English  and  German  circulating  li- 
braries, cricket  and  base-ball  grounds,  pis- 


a  hunting-residence  of  the  former  duke. 

Times  and  fares  for  1884  between  Cologne, 
Frankfort,  Col'eniz,  Ems,  Bingerbriick, 
Kreuznach,  Mayence,  Wiesbaden,  Schwal- 
buch,  Schlangenbad,  Hamburg,  Frankfort, 
Darmstadt,  Mannheim,  Heidelberg,  Carls- 
ruhe,  Baden-Baden,  Wildbad,  and  Strasburg  : 
Cologne  to  Coblentz,  1  h.  53  m.,  7  marks 
30  pf. ;—  to  Bonn,  34  m.,  2i  marks ;— to  Ems 
(via  Coblentz,  change  cars),  2  h.  51  m.,  9 
marks  70  pf. ; — to  Wiesbaden  (via  Bonn,  Nie- 

tol  shooting-gallery,  riding-school,  fishing,  derlahnstein,  and  Rudesheim),  5  h.  10  m., 
hunting,  museum,  picture-galleries,  etc.        |15  marks  70  pf. ; — to  Wiesbaden  (VM  Cob- 


The  Kursaal  establishments,  patronized 
extensively,  are  fitted  up  in  the  most  luxu- 
rious manner,  and  contain,  besides  tlie  large 


lentz,  Niederlahnstein,  and  Rudesheim,  ex- 
press route),  4  h.  49  m.,  15  marks  70  pf. ; — 
to  Wiesbaden  (via  Coblentz,  Mayence,  and 


concert-hall,  a  restaurant,  with  beer  saloon  j  Castel,  crossing  the  Rhine  by  ferry  at  May- 
adjoining,  conversation,  lecture,  chess,  and  ence,  most  agreeable  route*),  oh.  19m.,  15  inks. 
extensive  reading  rooms,  the  latter  with  "0  pf.  ; — to  Bingerbriick  (via  Coblentz),  4  h. 
above  300  periodicals  of  all  countries.  30  m.,  12  marks ; — to  Maytnce  (via  Coblentz 

Among  the  sights  is  the  Museum,  in  the  and  Bingerbriick,  express  route),  3  h.  52  m., 
Schlosschen,  Moorish  palace  of  Prince  Nich-  14  marks  90  pf. ; — to  Mayence.  (via  Coblentz, 
olas,  Ministerial  Buildings,  in  Florentine  Niederlahnstein,  Mosbach,  and  Castel, 
style,  and  Protestant  and  Catholic  churches.  \  crossing  river  as  above),  5  h.  13  m.,  15  marks 

In  the  Louisenplatz  stands  an  Obelisk,  \  80  pf. ; — to  Frankfort  (via  Bonn,  Nieder- 
erected  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers  of  lahnstein,  and  Wiesbaden),  5  h.  2  m.,  18 
Nassau  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Waterloo.  1  marks  80  pf. ; — to  Frankfort  (mail  route  via 

Wiesbaden  is  noted  for  the  number  and  i  Coblentz,    Bingerbruck,   and   Mayence,  a 


good  quality  of  its  educational  establish- 
ments. 

About  one  mile  north  of  the  town  stands 


beautiful  ride  along  the  Rhine),  4  h.  45  m., 
18  marks  30  pf. ;— to  Frankfort  (via  Cob- 
lentz, Niederlahnstein,  and  Wiesbaden),  5 


the  eminence  of  Neroberg  (so  called  from  '  h.  40  m.,  19  marks  30  pf. ; — to  Kreuznach 
the  tradition  that  the  Emperor  Nero  here  (via  Bingerbruck),  4  h.  2  m.,  13  marks  30 
built  a  palace),  on  which  is  situated  the  '  pf. :  —  to  Strasburg  (via  Bingerbruck  and 
beautiful  Russian  Chapel,  erected  by  the  Weissenburg),  7  h.  49  m..  34  marks  70  pf. ; 
Duke  of  Nassau  as  a  mausoleum  for  his  '  — to  Heidelberg  (via  Mayence  and  Darm- 
•wife,  the  Duchess  Elizabeth  Micbailowna,  stadt),  f>|  h.  (1  h.  20  m.  from  Darmstadt), 
a  Russian  princess.  It  is  erected  in  the  24  marks  30  pf. ;  —  to  Baden-Baden  (via 
form  of  a  Greek  cross,  surmounted  by  a  Mayence,  Darmstadt,  and  Cos  Junction), 
large  gilded  dome,  this  last  being  surround-  9J  h.,  32  marks  90  pf. 


ed  by  four  smaller  ones.     The  interior  is 
of  solid  marble ;  a  rich  screen  separates 
694 


Coblentz   to   Ems,  via    Niederlahnstein 
Junction,  29  m.,  2  marks  10  pf. ;— to  Wict- 


S<  1 1  \\AI.BACH. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


NASSAU. 


badm,  3  h.  21  m.,  7  marks  60  pf. ;— to  Wies- 
baden, via  Mayencc,  :f  li.  21  in.,  S  marks  90 
pf. ; — to  M ni/i  ''"'< ',  ' '  '  Bingerbriick,  1  li.  51 
in.,  7  marks  110  pf.  ;— to  Frankfort,  express, 
via  Mayenee,  '_'  li.  II  m.,  11  marks  ;>0  pf. ; 
— to  Frankfurt,  fin  Niederlalinslein  and 
Wieabftden, :!  li.  :>:>  m.,  12  marks. 

liiiiyerbriickto  Maycnce,  40  m.,  '_'  inks.  'JO 
pf.  ;—to  ( 'oblentz,  1  h.  10  in.,  4  inks.  70  pf. ; — 
to  Frankfort,  ria  Mayence,  1  b.  33  in.,  6  inks. 
30  pf. ;— to  Kreuznach,  36  m.,  1  mk.  30  pf. 

Mayence  (Mainz)  to  Wiesbaden,  38  in.,  1 
mark  (crossing  the  Rhine  by  ferry  to  Castel 
in  12  in.  incl.  stop.); — to  Frankfort,  45  in.,  3 
mks.  25  pf. ;—  to  Darmstadt,  55  m.,  3  niks.  40 
pf. ;—  to  Heidelberg,  2  h.  9  m.,  9  mks.  20  pf. 

Ems  to  Cologne,  Coblentz,  Frankfort,  etc., 
see  those  places,  above  and  below. 

Wiesbaden  to  Cologne,  Coblentz,  Mayence, 
and  Frankfort,  see  above  and  below. 

Sfluralbach  and  Schlungenbad  to  Ems, 
Coblentz,  or  Wiesbaden,  see  description. 

Frankfort  to  Hamburg  (see  description  of 
Homburg) ; — to  \\"n>xba<l<'ii.  r'ct  ( 'astt:l,59  m., 
3  marks  80  pf. ; — to  Colof/ne,  Coblentz,  Mni/- 
encc,  and  litwjerbruck  (see  those  places 
above);  —  to  Darmstadt,  Mannluiin,  and 
Heidelberg  (see  description  of  those  places) ; 
—to  Strasburg,  5  h.  32  in.,  21  marks  80  pf. ; 
— to  Basle,  8  h.  15  m.,  30  marks  80  pf. 

H>  iddberg  and  Darmstadt, see  description. 

Baden-Baden  to  Ileiddberg,  2  h.  5  m.,  8 
marks  (>5  pf. 

1  ( "ildbad  to  Stuttgart.  2  h.  8  m.,  7  mks.  95  pf. 

[By  no  means  fail  to  visit  the  lovely  water- 
ing-places of  Schwulbach  and  Ems.  Engage 
a  carriage,  at  any  of  the  hotels,  for  Schwal- 
bach,  and  spend  a  few  days  there ;  then 
take  another  to  Ems,  via  Nassau.  If  not 
visiting  Schlanrjenbad medicinal] y,  make  an 
excursion  from  Schwalliach  to  that  place. 

\\'<>'$btiden  to  Schwalbach,  by  diligence, 
2  h.  35  m. ;  fare,  1  mark  90  pf.,  going  by 
the  high-road  leading  to  Ems  and  Coblentz. 

Hotel  A  lleesaal  (de  la  Promenaded)  and  Vil- 
la Grebert,  in  a  beautiful  position  close  to 
the  Kurhaus,  can  be  highly  recommended. 

SefttOO&acA,  in  a  lovely  situation  on  the 
northern  slope  oftheTaunus  mountains,  in 
a  fresh  and  invigorating  climate,  contains 
a  population  of  3000  souls  ;  its  waters,  sur- 
passing all  other  German  chalybeates,  the 
richest  in  carbonic  acid,  and  disposed  in 
most  excellent  bath-houses,  are  considered 
very  efficacious  in  cftlorotif,  poverty  of  the 
blood.and  diseases  connected  with  them, ner- 


vous affections,  women's  diseases,  muscular 
weakness,  affections  of  the  mucous  mem- 
branes (genital  catarrh  and  urinary  organs), 
etc. 

Close  to  the  bath-house  are  the  two  drink- 
ing-springs,  thaMahlbrunnen  and  Wnnbrun- 
nen  (aqua,  vinaria  of  the  Romans),  and  far- 
ther up  the  valley  is  the  Paulinenbrunnen, 
The  season  lasts  from  May  10  far  into  Oc- 
tober. A  season  drinking-ticket  costs  2 
ink.,  and  the  iar-tax  ticket,  entitling  the 
holder  to  enjoyment  of  reading-rooms,  re- 
unions, concerts,  etc.,  at  the  Kursaal,  10  ink. 
The  band  alternates  at  the  Stahl-  and  Wein- 
brunnen  in  the  daytime,  and  in  the  hand- 
some Kursaal  in  the  evening.  Excursion?, 
fishing,  and  shooting  in  the  environs.  All 
inquiries  should  be  made  of  the  Kur-ver- 
icallung.  Dr.  Grebert  is  a  good  physician. 

About  half  an  hour  from  Schwalbach  are 
the  ruins  ofAdotp/iseck,  a  castle  built  by  the 
Emperor  Adolph  for  a  favorite  mistress. 

Schwalbach  to  Eltville  (R'y  Sta.),  by  dili- 
gence, 10  miles ,  2  h. ;  fare,  1  mark  50  pf. ; 
— to  Hahnstiitten  (R'y  Sta.),  16  miles  ;  2  h. 
50  m. ;  fare,  2-J  marks ; — to  Schlangenbad, 
5  miles  ;  1J  h. ;  fare,  70  pf. ; — to  Wiesbaden, 
12  miles  ;  2£  h. ;  fare,  1  mark  90  pf. 

Wiesbaden  to  Schlangenba'1, 17  miles ;  4  h.; 
fare,  2  marks  16  pf. 

Schwalbach  to  Paris,  via  Eltville  (R'y 
Sta.),  Rudesheim,  and  Cologne ;  time,  18 
h. ;  fare,  64  marks  80  pf. 

Sc/ilangenbad,  a  beautiful  summer  resi- 
dence, in  a  sequestered  valley,  with  charm- 
ing environs.  Hotel  Victoria  and  Nassauer 
f/of,  two  very  good  houses.  The  baths,  cel- 
ebrated for  two  centuries,  are  considered 
most  efficacious  in  nervous  and  women's 
diseases,  gout  and  rheumatism,  scrofula, 
diseases  of  the  skin  and  complexion,  etc. 
There  is  a  cow's  and  goat's  milk  cure,  and 
miles  of  dustless  walks.  There  are  three 
bath-houses,  the  newest,  the  Xetdiau,  being 
the  finest,  and  containing  the  reunion,  card, 
and  billiard  rooms.  Between  (lie  Neuban 
'and  the  Xassauer  Hof  is  the  elegant  new 
Trinkhalle  colonnade. 

Sir  Francis  Head's  "Bubbles  from  the 
Brunnens  "  can  be  read  with  interest. 

Schlnnge'tbad  to  Paris.  Time,  17  h.  20 
m. ;  farej  G4  marks  (45  m.  dil.  to  Eltville). 

Nassau  may  either  be  reached  in  12  m. 
by  rail  from  Ems  (fare  60  pf.),  or  by  private 
carriage  from  Schwalbach. 

This  town  contains  nothing  of  special 
695 


EMS. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.^ 


DARMSTADT. 


importance,  except  the  ruins  of  the  castle 
of  Nassau,  the  cradle  of  that  important 
family.  It  is  situated  on  a  height  above 
the  town.  It  was  built  by  a  Count  of  Lau- 
fenburg  in  1100.  Some  centuries  later  the 
family  divided :  the  elder  branch  remained 
dukes  of  Nassau,  while  the  younger  is  rep- 
resented by  the  royal  house  of  Holland. 

The  River  Lahn  is  here  crossed  by  a 
handsome  suspension  bridge. 

Nassau  was  the  birthplace  of  Baron  von 
Stein,  the  noted  Prussian  minister  whom 
Napoleon  alludes  to  in  his  "Memoires," 
and  who  was  compelled  to  reside  in  Russia 
during  the  existence  of  the  empire. 

Ems  is  beautifull}'  situated  on  the  right  | 
bank  of  the  Lahn.      Hotels:  d'Angleterre,  \ 
large  and  first-class,   and   Quntre   Tours, 
Very  aristocratic.     Although  Ems  cannot 
compete  with  Baden-Baden  or  Wiesbaden 
in   the   magnificence  of  its   Kursaal,  the 
company  is  considered  much  more  select  I 
than  at  either  of  the  other  watering-places.  I 
The  season  commences  in  May  and  ends  in  | 
September.    The  excursions  are  numerous, 
and  the  daily  routine  about  the  same  as  at 
Wiesbaden.     Public  baths  are  numerous.    > 

The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  River  Lahn,  surrounded  by  j 
high  rocks  covered  with  trees  and  vines, 
and  the  air  one  breathes  is  pure  and  balmy. 
The  sources  of  the  water  are  numerous, 
and  are  all  alkaline.  The  water  is  limpid 
and  without  smell,  and  is  considered  effica- 
cious in  all  diseases  of  females,  and  in  cases 
of  catarrh  and  liver  and  pulmonary  com- 
plaints, and,  what  is  of  great  importance 
to  Americans,  sovereign  in  cases  of  dys- 
pepsia. These  waters  were  known  and 
highly  prized  in  the  time  of  the  Romans 
for  the  cure  of  sterility;  and  it  has  been 
stated  that  to  the  use  of  them  Agrippina, 
wife  of  Germanicus,  was  indebted  for  her 
son,  Caligula — a  questionable  compliment 
for  the  waters. 

The  attractions  of  Ems  consist  princi- 
pally in  its  handsome  promenades  and  ex- 
cursions, which  are  numerous. 

The  baths  are  taken  at  three  principal 
establishments — the  old  Kurhaus,  Quatre- 
Tours,  and  Newbadhaus.  The  prices  are 
2  marks  and  3  marks ;  douche  baths,  1J 
marks.  Tickets  for  a  certain  number  of 
baths  are  usually  purchased  in  advance. 
There  are  five  principal  sources — Krahn- 
ehen,  Furstenbrunnen,  Kesselbrunnen,  Ntu- 
696 


quelle,  and  Bubenquelle ;  this  last  is  the  one 
used  in  case  of  sterility.  The  principal 
used  by  drinkers  is  the  Keeselbrunnen, 
116°  Fahrenheit. 

The  Kursaal  is  a  very  handsome  build- 
ing. It  contains  a  cafe,  the  former  play- 
rooms, reading-rooms,  and  a  beautiful  ball- 
room, with  marble  columns,  where  balls 
are  given  weekly.  A  handsome  covered 
hall  connects  the  Kursaal  with  the  source 
of  the  Kesselbrunnen. 

The  number  of  visitors  is  about  20,000, 
and  the  permanent  population  8000. 

Myriads  of  donkeys  stand  on  both  sides 
of  the  river,  to  assist  in  making  the  nu- 
merous excursions  in  the  vicinity. 

It  was  on  the  promenade  at  Ems  that 
the  Emperor  William  gave  the  slight  to 
Benedetti  which  led  to  the  Franco-German 
war  of  1870. 

Frankfort,  described  in  Route  No.  1 62. 

Frankfort  to  l)arni.<tndi, ;('  i  in. ;  fare,l  mk. 
90  pf.  ;  to  other  places,  see  p.  694  and  627. 

Darmstadt,  capital  of  the  duchy,  and  the 
residence  of  the  Grand-Duke  of  Hesse,  con- 
tains 39,650  inhabitants.  Principal  hotel, 
Darmstadter  Ilof.  The  main  object  of  at- 
traction is  the  Ducal  Palace,  which  con- 
tains the  court  library  (over  450,000  vol- 
umes), open  every  day  from  9  to  12  and 
from  2  to  4 ;  a  collection  of  rare  arms  and 
costumes,  open  Thursday  and  Friday  from 
11  to  1,  and  Sunday  10  to  1 ;  and  a  fine 
gallery  of  paintings,  some  700  in  all,  situ- 
ated on  the  first  floor.  Among  them  are  a 
Raphael,  St.  John  in  the  Wilderness ;  a 
Sleeping  Venus,  by  Titian:  a  David  and 
Nathan,  by  Domenichino ;  Rembrandt,  a 
portrait  of  his  second  wife  ;  the  Interior  of 
a  Stable,  by  Paul  Potter ;  a  Virgin  and 
Child,  by  Holbein ;  Diana  returning  from 
the  Chase,  by  Rubens;  A  Hunt,  by  Sny- 
ders;  several  Dutch  landscapes  by  Ach  it- 
bach.  The  second  floor  contains  the  Ro- 
man antiquities,  engravings,  shells,  miner- 
als, and  fossils.  These  last  are  most  val- 
uable specimens,  found  in  the  bed  of  the 
Rhine. 

The  Catholic  church  and  Maison  d' Ex- 
ercise are  also  worthy  of  a  visit.  Notice 
at  the  end  of  the  Rue  du  Rhin  a  fine  statue 
of  the  Grand-Duke  Louis,  to  whom  Darm- 
stadt owes  its  importance.  It  stands  liio 
feet  high,  and  was  erected  in  1844.  The 
model  was  furnished  by  Schwanthaler.  The 
view  from  the  summit  is  superb ;  fee,  1  mk. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


MANNHEIM. 


The   gardens   of  the  palace  are   hand-  Starkenburg.     It  was  built  by  the  abbots 

sonielv  laid  out.  of  Lorsch,  and  became  liter  the  most  ]MMV- 

Thcre  i>  a  small  palace  built  by  <v)ueen  erful  stronghold  of  the  Archbishop  of  May. 

Victoria  of  England  for  her  daughter,  the  em  e.      It  was  taken  by  the  Spaniards  in 

-  Alice,  who  married  Prince  Louis  1H21.  and  was  twice  besieged  by  Turenne. 


of  Hesse. 

About  one  mile  from  the  town  are  tho 


ducal  preserves,  where  wild  boars  are  kept 
for  the  ducal  chase. 

Darmstadt  to  Mannheim. 


The  road  now  crosses  the  Laden  fron- 


tier. 


At  Friedrichsfeld  junction  travelers  vis- 
iting Mannheim  change  cars,  those  to  Hei- 
Time,  1  h.  20  i  del  berg  continue,  thirteen  and  fourteen 
in. ;  fare,  5  marks  20  pf. ; — to  Heidelberg  ;  minutes  respectively, 
time,  1  h.  18  m. ;  fare,  5  marks  10  pf.  (both  j  Mannheim,  situated  at  the  confluence  of 
via  Friedrichsfeld  Jn.) ; — to  Erbach;  time.  1  the  Rhine  and  Neckar,  is  a  place  of  the 
h.  53  m. ;  fare,  4  marks  10  pf.  (See  p.  694.)  greatest  commercial  importance  in  the 
Erbach  is  a  small  town  prettily  situated  i  Duchy  of  Baden.  It  contains  53,454  in- 
in  the  Miimling  valley,  and  contains  2400  habitants.  Principal  hotel,  de  I  Europe. 


inhabitants.  The  only  object  of  attraction 
it  presents  is  its  modern-built  castle  of  the 
Counts  of  Erbach,  built  on  the  site  of  an  an- 
cient castle.  The  castle  contains  a  most  im- 
portant collection  of  objects  of  interest  be- 


The  town  is  comparatively  modern,  having 
been  founded  in  1GOG  by  Frederick  IV., 
Elector  Palatine.  It  owes  its  importance, 
however,  to  the  Elector  Charles  Philip, 
who  in  1721  left  Heidelberg  to  make 


longing  to  the  Middle  Ages — fire-arms  and  Mannheim  his  capital.     On  account  of  its 

armor.     Of  the  last  are  two  suits  of  great  once  strong  fortifications  it  suffered  much 

interest,  those  of  Wallenstein  and  Gustavus  in  sieges  and  bombardments.    It  was  razed 

Adolphus.     There   is  also   the   armor  of  to  the  ground  by  the  French  in  1689,  also 

Thomele,  the  dwarf  of  the  Archduke  Fer-  during  the  Thirty  -  years'   War;    by  the 

dinand  of  Austria,  which  he  wore  on  state  French  again  in  1794,  and  by  the  Austri- 

occasions,  and  in  which  he  was  once  served  ans  in  1795.     The  modern  town  is  built. 

in  a  pie  to  a  company  at  dinner.     In  the  like  Philadelphia,  in  regular  squares. 
chapel  is  the  sarcophagus  of  Eginhard,  the        The   principal   building  is  the  Schloss, 

friend  and  biographer  of  Charlemagne.  constructed   between   1720  and   1730,  but 

Diligence  to  Hirschhorn  K'y  St.,3  h.37  m.;  partially  destroyed  by  fire  in  1795.    It  was 

fare, 3  ink.; — to  Xeckargemund  K'y  St. in 6 h.  erected  by  the  Elector  Charles  Philip.     It 

In   thirty  minutes  from   Darmstadt  is  is  partially  used  as  a  Picture-Gallery,  Cubi- 

situated  the  town  of  Zirinrjenberg,  whence  net  of  Xutural  History,  Collection  of  En- 

excursions    to    the    Od-inr/i'</ :    then    the  grarii/gx  and  of  Plaster  Casts. 

handsome    village    of   Aui-rbach    (hotel,  '     It  has  a  fine  garden  attached. 
Kr«n<  i,  much  frequented  during  the  sum-        The  The'itre  was  restored  in  1854,  and  is 

HIT    months   on    account   of   its    mineral  one  of  the  best  in  Germany  :  here  Schiller's 

springs.      It  contains  a  small  cat/lt-,  with  a  first  pieces  were  produced.     The  adjoining 


large  park,  belonging  to  the  Grand-Duke 

of  lli'.-se.  About  two  miles  distant  are 
the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Auerbach,  de- 
stroyed by  Turenne  in  1G74. 

Branch  railway  to  Worms,  passing  the 
town  of  Lorsch,  which  possesses  a  church 
built  in  1130,  and  which  contains  the  re- 
mains of  Ixntis  the  German,  founder  of  the 


Gorman  Empire. 

Passing    Bensheim,    a    small 
town  of  4900  inhabitants,  formerly  a  pos- 
session of  the  Electors  of  Mayence, 

Ue/tjiei/hcim  is  readied.     This  town  con- 
tains a  church  founded  by  Charlemagne. 


Schillcrplatz  contains  a  fine  statue  of  the 
poet.  To  the  right  and  left  are  two  other 
statues:  one  to  the  celebrated  actor  Jffland, 
who  died  1814.  and  who  made  his  debut  in 
Mannheim,  and  the  other  to  Dnhlberg,  the 
manager  of  the  theatre  up  to  1803 :  lie  was 
one  of  the  grand-duke's  ministers,  and 
brother  of  the  prince  primate. 


The  Church  of  the  Jesuits  is  a  handsome 
animated  building,  richly  decorated. 

A  monument  has  been  erected  by  the 
citizens  to  the  Elector  Charles  Theodore, 
who  died  in  1799. 

The  town  is  connected  with  iM&oigtknfm 


On  a  height  some  distance  behind  the  town    by  a  new  rail.vay  bridge,  erected  in  1867, 
lay   be  seen  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  j  and  finely  ornamented. 

697 


HEIDELBERG. 

Mannheim  to  Frankfort;  time,  1  li.  37  m. ; 
fare,  7  marks  45  pf. ;—  to  Darmstadt ;  time, 
57  m. ;  fare,  5  marks  20  pf. ;—  to  Heidelberg; 
time,  i  h. ;  fare,  1  mark  80  pf. ; — to  Rtras- 
burg;  3  hrs.,by  Speyer;  fare,  13  marks  70  pf. 

Heidelberg. — Carriages  to  and  from  ilie 
station,  7  gs.  one  person  ;  each  extra  person 
i!  gs.  Heidelberg,  one  of  the  principal  towns 
of  Baden,  contains  20,100  inhabitants,  one 
third  of  whom  are  Catholics.  Principal 
hotels :  Prince  Charles,  close  under  the 
castle  walls ;  splendid  table  and  low 
prices  ;  one  of  the  best  houses  in  Europe. 
Railway  tickets  for  sale  in  the  hotel. 
Victoria,  in  a  fine  position  near  the  sta- 
tion, admirably  conducted  and  reasonable 
prices;  it  is  situated  on  the  Anltige,  the 
fashionable  promenade.  Hotel  Schrieder, 
a  large,  fine  house,  connected  with  the  sta- 
tion, well  managed  by  the  proprietress, 
Madame  Back.  Grand  Hotel,  a  first-class 
house,  close  to  the  station.  The  town  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  Neckar,  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  localities  in  Germany. 
There  is  one  principal  street,  which  is 
nearly  two  miles  long,  into  which  all  the 
others  run.  The  valley  in  which  the  town 
is  situated  is  overlooked  by  well-wooded 
hills  at  the  back,  while,  the  rising  ground 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  covered 
with  rich  vineyards  as  rav  as  the  eye  can 
reach.  Heidelberg  owes  its  celebrity  to  its 
castle,  the  ancient  residence  of  the  Elect- 
ors Palatine,  its  University,  which,  next 
to  that  of  Prague,  is  the  oldest  in  Germa- 
ny, and  to  the  many  historical  events 
that  have  transpired  there :  pillaged  three 
times,  bombarded  five  times,  and  twice 
laid  in  ashes. 

The  Castle  of  Heidelberg  was  founded  by 
the  Elector  Rudolph  in  the  14th  century, 
and  combined  the  double  character  of  pal- 
ace and  fortress.  Its  styles  partake  of  all 
the  successive  varieties  of  the  14tl>,  15th, 
and  16th  centuries,  and  is  highly  interest- 
ing for  its  immensity,  its  picturesque  sit- 
uation—  standing  at  an  immense  height 
above  the  town — and  its  architectural  mag- 
nificence. It  is  a  solid  square  building, 
witli  towers  at  each  end,  one  low  and 
round,  the  other  higher  and  of  an  octagon- 
al shape.  It  was  sacked  and  partly  burned 
by  the  French  in  1693,  and  struck  by  light- 
ning in  17C4,  since  which  time  it  has  been 
roofless.  That  portion  called  the  English 
palace  was  built  by  the  Elector  Frederick 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


HEIDELBERG. 


V.  as  a  residence  for  his  bride,  daughter 
of  James  I.  of  England.  The  cellars  of 
the  castle  are  very  extensive ;  in  one  of 
them  is  the  celebrated  Heidelberger  Fass, 
said  to  hold  283,200  bottles  of  wine  when 
full,  or  fsno  hogsheads.  It  has  been  filled 
but  three  times  during  the  last  hundred 
years.  Notice  in  front  of  it  a  wooden  stat- 
ue of  the  court  fool  Porkes,  who  never  went 
to  bed  sober,  and  always  on  a  short  allow- 
ance of  from  15  to  18  bottles  daily.  In  an 
adjoining  cellar  remains  a  small  cask 
which  holds  60,000  gallons.  The  cellar 
was  formerly  filled  with  13  casks  of  this 
size.  From  the  terrace  and  gardens  most 
magnificent  views  may  be  obtained.  A 
path  leads  from  the  garden  to  the  Molken- 
cur  in  twenty  minutes.  It  is  a  lovely 
walk,  and  from  the  restaurant  there  is  a 
glorious  view. 

Near  the  Hotel  Prince  Charles  we  per- 
ceive a  very  curious  spectacle,  viz.,  the 
church  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  which  is  divided 
by  a  partition  running  the  whole  length 
of  the  church  directly  through  the  middle, 
and  the  two  services,  Catholic  and  Prot- 
estant,  are  performed  under  the  same  roof. 
In  1719,  the  Elector  Palatine  wishing  to 
deprive  the  Protestants  of  their  half,  the 
oiti/'.-ns  raised  such  a  storm  about  his  ears 
that  he  was  obliged  to  remove  his  court  to 
Mannheim.  The  oldest  church  in  the  town 
is  that  of  St.  J'et'r;  it  was  on  the  doors  of 
this  church  that  Jerome  of  Prague  nailed 
his  celebrated  theses,  challenging  the 
world  to  dispute  them. 

The  rniversity  was  founded  in  1386, 
and  is.  after  Vienna  and  Prague,  the  oldest 
in  Germany.  It  has  a  library  of  200.000 
volumes  and  1800  valuable  MSS.,  an  ar- 
chaeological institute,  botanical  garden,  zo- 
ological museum,  and  mineral  collection. 
It  has  at  the  present  time  about  800 
students,  about  one  quarter  of  whom  are 
"corps  students,"  or  fighting  students. 
There  are  some  seven  or  eight  different 
corps,  between  most  of  whom  a  great 
jealousy  exists  in  regard  to  their  fighting 
abilities,  which  are  tested  every  Friday 
morning  by  duels  fought  with  swords  at 
the  HirvcAffOttt,  a  house  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Neckar.  The  swords  are  very 
sharp,  and  double  edged,  and  are  used  as 
sabres ;  consequently  the  cuts  are  numer- 
ous, but  are  scarcely  ever  mortal.  When 
they  fight  only  for  the  honor  of  the  corps, 


HEIDELBERG. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


they  wear  caps,  and  have  their  necks  and 
right  arms  heavily  bandaged.  When  the 
light  is  to  resent  an  offense  or  insult,  the 
caps  arc  removed,  and  six,  seven,  and 
eight  cuts  are  often  given  and  received 
during  a  light  of  lifteen  minutes,  the  dura- 
tion of  all  combats ;  at  the  end  of  which 
time  the  party  receiving  the  least  number 
of  cuts  is  declared  the  victor.  Should  a 
serious  wound  prevent  cither  of  the  com- 
bat ints  from  proceeding  with  the  light,  it 
is  renewed  at  a  future  day.  The  corps 
surgeon  is  always  in  attendance,  and  he 
decides  whether  a  duelist  is  able  to  pro- 
ceed, the  flow  of  blood  sometimes  being  so 
great  as  to  stop  the  light  while  the  wound 
is  sewed  up  or  stopped  in  some  manner. 
It  is  rather  difficult  to  obtain  permission 
to  visit  the  Hirsehgasse  during  one  of 
these  combats.  It  can  only  be  accom- 
plished through  a  presentation  to  some 
member  of  the  corps.  If  you  are  stop- 
ping at  the  Prinz  Carl,  Mr.  Somnter,  the 
obliging  landlord,  may  accomplish  it  for 
you.  Should  you  succeed  in  obtaining 
entrance  to  this  scene  of  fearful  interest, 
nothing  less  than  a  thaler  should  be  given 
to  the  custodian  who  waits  on  the  duelists. 
and  keeps  their  swords  ground  sharp. 
The  students  are  very  particular  who  is 
present,  as  the  authorities  are  always  on 
the  alert  to  take  them  in  the  act.  They, 
however,  do  not  seem  to  accomplish  much, 
as  the  students  have  spies  stationed  along 
the  bridge  and  shore  to  signalize  the  ap- 
proach of  an  interfering  part}-.  During  an 
entire  summer  the  author  spent  in  Heidel- 
berg, visiting  the  Hirsehgasse  nearly  ev- 
ery Friday,  he  never  saw  a  government  of- 
ficer on  the  ground. 

An  excursion  to  the  Kdnigsstiihlis  one  of 
the  things  "to  do"  at  Heidelberg:  it  is 
the  highest  point  of  the  district,  and  may 
be  reached  in  1  h.  15  m.  You  here  obtain 
a  most  extended  view  of  the  valley  of  the 
Neckar,  the  Rhine,  Odenwald,  the  Hardt 
Mountains,  and  the  Black  Forest.  A  don- 
key there  and  back  costs  2  fl.  SO  kr. 

An  excursion  should  also  be  made  to  the 
\\'<>'f.tbrunmn  (only  two  miles),  where  the 
Enchantress  Jetta  was  torn  in  pieces  by  a 
wolf.  The  situation  of  the  inn  is  very  "ro- 
mantic ;  the  trout,  which  are  kept  in  ponds, 
are  of  immense  size,  and  are  verv  linelv 
served  up  by  the  landlord  of  the  inn. 
A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  handsome 


BADEN. 


gardens  of  Schiretzinyen,  distance  about  six 
miles  ;  the  ridi:  is  a  most  charming  one. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Neckar  there  is 
a  most  agreeable  walk,  called  the  Philoso- 
jikemreff  (Philosopher's  walk\  from  where 
th'-re  is  a  most  magnificent  view  of  the 
Rhine  valley,  the  Castle,  etc. 

Hti'Mberg  to  Paris,  via  Strasburg.  Time, 
15  h.  56  m. ;  fare,  G3£  marks;— to  Basle; 
time,  5J  h. ;  fare,  23  marks. 

llei'lelberg  to  Carlsruhe.  Time,  1  h.  5  m. ; 
fare,  5  marks  5  pf. ;—  to  Stuttgart,  via  Bruch- 
sal ;  time,  2  h.  38  m. ;  fare,  10i  marks. 

Heidelberg  to  Frankfurt.  Time,  1  h.  47 
m. ;  fare,  7  marks  35  pf. 

Htidelberg  to  Baden-Baden.  Time,  2  h. 
8  m.  ;  fare,  8  marks  65  pf. 

Passing  Bruchsul  station,  where  travel- 
ers to  Stuttgart.  Munich,  or  Vienna  change 
cars  (see  Route  No.  173),  we  reach 

Dmiach  (Hotel.  Curhburg),  formerly  the 
residence  and  capital  of  the  Margraves  of 
Baden  Durlach.  From  the  distance  may 
be  >e:-n  the  Toirer  of  '1  hnrmberg,  the  cradle 
of  the  ducal  fatnilv  of  Baden. 


THE  GRAND-DUCHY  OF  BADEN. 

Baden  is  a  narrow  strip  of  land  200  miles 
long,  with  nearly  an  average  of  25  miles 
wide,  or  containing  5(J66  square  miles.  Its 
territory  extends  along  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  Rhine  across  the  lower  course  of 
the  Neckar.  In  picturesque  beauty  and  in 
productiveness  Baden  is  the  Garden  of  Ger- 
many. The  Black  Forest,  like  the  back- 
bone of  a  fish,  extends  through  its  entire 
length.  The  Feldberg  is  the  highest  point 
of  the  ridge,  4G75  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  Rhine  flows  along  the  south- 
ern and  western  frontiers,  and  is  its  chief 
river.  In  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Black 
Forest  the  Danube  takes  its  rise. 

Baden  is  entirely  agricultural ;  its  vine- 
yards are  of  large  extent,  and  its  orchards 
numerous.  From  its  cherries  is  produced 
the  delicious  liquor  Kirschwasser.  Its  min- 
erals are  numerous,  and  it  is  particularly 
rich  in  mineral  waters. 

Baden  contains  a  population  of  1,461,- 
562,  two  thirds  of  whom  are.  Catholics. 

Its  annii:il  receipts  and  expenses  amount 
to  C9,OiMi.()()0  marks  >17, 250,000,  and  its 
total  debt  to  •J.JO.IMHMIOII  marks -$62,500,- 
000.  The  army  forms  the  principal  part 
of  the  14th  German  army  corps. 
699 


CAKLSRCHE. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BADEN-BADEN. 


Carlsruhe,  one  of  the  most  attractive 
capitals  in  situation  and  appearance,  lies  a 
few  miles  from  the  east  bank  of  the  Rhine, 
and  contains  38,6*2  inhabitants.  Princi- 
pal hotels,  Erbprinz  and  Englischer  Hof. 

The  plan  of  the  city  is  very  much  like 
Washington — the  Ducal  Palace,  a  building 
of  considerable  extent,  being  in  the  posi- 
tion of  the  Capitol,  the  main  streets  radi- 
ating in  all  directions.  The  streets  are 
wide  and  well-paved,  and  many  of  the 
houses  very  handsome.  In  the  street  lead- 
ing from  the  station  to  the  palace  there  is 
a  monument  erected  to  the  Grand-Duke 
Karl,  who  died  in  1818,  and  also  one  to  the 
Margrave  Charles  William,  founder  of  the 
town.  There  is  also  in  the  court-yard  of 
the  palace  a  bronze  statue  by  Schwanthaler. 

The  palace,  erected  in  1754,  contains  the 
Museum  of  Natural  History  in  its  east  wing ; 
also  the  Court  Library,  with  70,000  volumes. 
The  Parliament  meets  here,  and  the  debates 
are  open  to  the  public :  they  usually  com- 
mence in  November.  In  the  palace  garden 
a  monument  has  been  erected  to  the  poet 
Jlebel.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  of  the 
garden  is  a  long  glass  gallery,  or  Wintergar- 
ten,  420  feet  long,  with  conservatories,  bo- 
tanical  gardens,  etc.,  all  open  to  the  public. 

Near  the  Botanical  Gardens  stands  the 
Kunsthalle,  built  of  gray  sandstone  and 
decorated  with  frescoes.  It  contains  a 
collection  of  paintings,  free  to  the  public 
on  Sundays  and  Wednesdays  from  11  to  1 
and  2  to  4 ;  on  other  days  a  fee  of  1  mark. 
Lessing,  the  celebrated  painter,  is  at  pres- 
ent (1876)  director.  The  modern  pictures 
are  very  good ;  the  old  masters  indifferent. 
There  is  a  catalogue  for  sale,  1^-  marks. 

The  Polytechnic  School  numbers  800  pu- 
pils, and  is  quite  celebrated. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  places  of 
Carlsruhe  is  Friedrichsplatz,  surrounded 
with  new  buildings ;  in  the  southern  part 
is  the  Vereinigte  Sammlungen,  or  united  col- 
lections. The  central  part  of  the  building 
resembles  an  arch  of  triumph.  The  build- 
ing is  by  Bergmuller,  erected  in  1874. 

The  Catholic  church  is  built  in  the  form 
of  a  pantheon. 

Rastadt,  the  ancient  residence  of  the  last 
margraves  of  Baden-Baden,  is  situated  on 
tlie  Murg,  and  is  a  fortress  of  the  empire. 
It  contains  12,000  inhabitants.  Hotel,  Post. 
The  place  is  so  dull  that  the  last  time  the 
author  visited  it  he  saw  but  one  man  in  the 
700 


streets,  and  he  was  moving  towards  the 
station  with  a  valise  in  his  hand !  It  con- 
tains a  large  palace,  of  red  sandstone,  sur- 
mounted by  a  gilded  statue  of  Jupiter.  In 
a  room  of  this  palace,  in  1714,  Prince  Eu- 
gene and  Marshal  Villars  signed  a  treaty 
of  peace  between  France  and  Germany. 

From  1797  to  1799  a  congress  was  held 
here  to  arrange  the  differences  between 
France  and  Germany.  Two  of  the  French 
envoys,  Roberyot  and  Bonnier,  were  assas- 
sinated at  the  gates  of  the  town,  when  the 
conference  was  broken  off. 

At  the  station  Oos  a  branch  line  leads — 
in  fifteen  minutes — to  the  most  celebrated 
watering-place  in  the  wo*ld, 

BADEN-BADEN, 

situated  at  the  northwestern  extremity 
of  the  Black  Forest,  surrounded  by  lux- 
uriant pine -woods,  in  the  lovely  valley 
of  the  Oos.  Sheltered  on  the  north,  east, 
and  south  by  a  high  range  of  hills — i.  e. 
to  the  north,  the  Haardtberg  (377  metres 
high),  Schlossberg  (565  metres),  Grosse 
Staufen  (672  metres),  Kleine  Staufen  (625 
metres) ;  to  the  east,  the  Steinberg  (678  me- 
tres), Obersterberg  (565  metres),  Kuchen- 
berg  and  Hummelsberg  (534  metres);  and 
to  the  south,  the  Fremersberg  (526  metres), 
Yherg  (517  metres),  Korbmattenkopf  (519 
metres),  Wurzgartenkopf  (481  metres),  and 
Leissberg  (420  metres)  —  the  town,  com- 
prising a  population  of  about  12,000  inhab- 
itants,  and  visited  every  year  by  nearly 
50,000  people,  is  built  in  the  form  of  ter- 
races, on  the  slopes  of  the  Schlossberg, 
surrounded  by  a  garland  of  sumptuous  vil- 
las in  the  midst  of  a  highly  luxuriant  veg- 
etation, favored  by  the  most  advantageous 
climatic  conditions,  by  means  of  which  the 
whole  of  its  environs  are  formed  into  one 
immense  and  lovely  garden — the  "Garden 
of  Germany."  The  town  lies  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  210  metres  above  the  level  of  the 
sea;  its  longitude  is  5°  54'  east  of  Paris, 
and  latitude  48°  46',  with  a  mean  annual 
temperature  of  8.9°  Cent.,  a  mean  atmos- 
pheric pressure  of  743.70,  vaporic  tension 
of  7.5,  and  a  relative  annual  humidity  of 
79£;  thus  making  it  the  most  preferred  cli- 
matic sojourn  of  Southern  Germany,  which, 
as  to  advantages  of  climate,  equals  many 
other  places  lying  farther  south  and  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Alps. 

The  principal  hotels  are  liotd  de  FEu- 


BADEN-BADEN. 


[1  UK  KMNKi:  ()F  (il.II.M. \.\Y.j 


BADEN-BADEN. 


rope,  Hittel  Victoria,  Hotel  d'l/oll  nxl- •. 
l/i'i/il  tic  In  C'»ir  de  Bade,  and  Hold  >le 
Russie,  l/uttl  Stephanie,  and  Hotel  Belltvue.  j 
There  arc  no  better  houses  than  these  in 
Germany.  There  are  several  other  hotels, 
whose  prices  are  a  shade  lower,  but  they 
are  otherwise  inferior. 

Here  the  price  of  every  thing  is  fixed  bj' 
government,  and  travelers  are  better  pro- 
tected from  extortion  than  in  almost  any 
other  part  of  Europe.  It  is  hardly  ever 
necessary  to  drive  a  bargain  for  any  thing. 

The  price  of  carriage,  15  minutes,  70  pf.; 
three  or  four  persons,  1  in. ;  half  an  hour, 

1  m.  5  pf.  or  1  m.  40  pf.;   one  hour,  1  m. 
70  pf.  or  '1  in.  15  pf. ;  donkey,  half  a  day, 

2  m.  50  pf. ;  one  day,  4  m. 

liadcn-Badun  is  the  annual  resort  of 
idlers,  pleasure-seekers,  and  invalids  from 
all  parts  of  the  world.  Its  springs  have 
bi-cn  long  and  favorably  known.  even  in 
tin;  times  of  the  Komans,  and  the  new 
palace,  now  belonging  to  the  Grand-duke, 
occupies  the  site  of  a  Roman  villa  and 
baths.  The  waters  of  the  springs  are 
warm,  the  principal  one  having  a  temper- 
ature of  153°  Fahrenheit ;  the  taste  is  salt- 
ish,  and,  when  drank  as  it  issues  from  the 
spring,  much  resembles  weak  broth;  it  is 
very  clear,  but  has  a  peculiarly  disagree- 
able smell.  The  quality  is  saline,  with  a 
mixture  of  muriatic  and  carbonic  acid,  and 
small  portions  of  silex  and  oxyd  of  iron. 
The  hot  springs  are  13  in  number,  and  the 
portion  of  the  town  where  they  issue  goes 
by  the  name  of  "  Hell." 

The  new  Grand-ducal  Bathing  Estab- 
lishment, named  t'ri'^h  ri<-  Bath*,  is  a  model 
institution,  and  lias  no  equal  in  any  other 
watering-place,  or  even  in  any  large  city 
of  Europe,  as  regards  elegance  and  perfec- 
tion. On  the  southern  slope  of  the  Schloss- 
bcrg  (Castle  Hill),  the  three-storied  edifice 
rises  up  in  the  form  of  terraces,  with  its 
back  leaning  directly  against  the  region 
whence  the  hot  springs  issue  forth.  In  this 
magnificent  structure,  both  as  regards  its 
exterior  and  interior,  all  the  requirements 
of  comfort,  and  more  especially  the  latest 
progress  and  improvements  of  balneothera- 
py.  have  been  brought  into  use  and  exe- 
cution, in  order  that  the  healing  properties 
of  these  old-renowned,  rich  mineral  springs 
should  come  into  full  and  general  use. 

The  Frederic  Baths  contain  the  follow- 
ing balneotberapeutk  a  rran  foments  of  spe- 
Y..I-.  II.— H 


cial  interot :  Common  tub-baths;  large 
hip-baths  supplied  with  mineral  water, with 
a  continual  stream  ( !  \ 'ildbader) ;  an  electric 
bath ;  rooms  for  inhaling  the  pulverized 
thermal  water;  baths  for  the  cold-water 
treatment  and  cold  shower-baths;  vapor- 
baths  and  hot-air-baths,  both  for  several 
persons  at  once ;  swimming-baths  of  dif- 
ferent degrees  of  temperature ;  vapor-baths 
for  single  persons  or  for  two  together,  and 
vapor-baths  in  boxes.  Douches  of  every 
description  and  temperature  are  to  be  found 
at  the  disposal  of  bathers,  viz. :  A  monster 
shower  douche,  with  high-pressure,  of  55° 
Fahr. ;  upward  shower  and  jet  douches, 
77°  Fahr. ;  one  shower  and  one  jet  douche, 
73°  Fahr. ;  one  side  douche,  73°  Fahr. ;  one 
Scotch  douche,  with  jets  of  alternating  cold 
water,  55°  Fahr.,  and  hot  of  100°  Fahr.; 
one  Kapellen  douche  (general  douche  from 
all  sides), 64°  Fahr. ;  one  cold  hip-bath, 55° 
Fahr. ;  and  one  tepid  hip-bath,  73°  Fahr. 
The  douche  apparatus  is  in  most  cases  pro- 
vided with  a  contrivance  for  the  purpose 
of  varying  the  temperature,  by  special  reg- 
ulating water-cocks,  according  to  liking. 

The   plan  for  the   construction  of  the 
Frederic  Baths  was  designed  by  and  exe- 
cuted under  the   superintendence  of  the 
Grand-ducal  superintendent  of  buildings, 
Mr.  Dernfeld,  who,  in  company  with  the 
j  late  Dr.  Freeh,  had  visited  the  most  fre- 
I  quented  watering-places  of  Germany  and 
,  France,  and  inspected  the  most  prominent 
bathing  establishments  of  Vienna,  Buda- 
Pesth,  and  Berlin,  and  was  thus   enabled 
,  to  bring  into  bearing  his  much  enriched 
experience  on  that  point. 

The  introduction  of  public  gambling- 
tables  had  given  to  this  watering-place  a 
falsely  directed  impulse,  and  in  some  meas- 
ure had  repressed  and  forced,  as  it  were, 
the  importance  and  hygienic  value  of  the 
thermal  springs  to  the  background ;  but 
the  frequentation  of  this  watering-place 
since  their  abolition  sufficiently  proves  that 
the  celebrity  of  these  springs  is  being  re- 
instituted  in  its  right,  and  the  present 
model  institution  will  essentially  concur 
in  this  object.  These  old -renowned  hot, 
alkaline,  chlorate  of  soda,  thermal  springs 
— precious  gems  of  the  town  and  the  whole 
country — must  thus  resume  their  authority 
and  worth  under  this  new  form  and  set- 
ting, and  bring  about  the  conversion  of  the 
greatest  skeptics  as  to  their  hygienic  value. 
701 


IiAUEX-BADEX. 


[THE  EMPIRE  OF  GERMANY.] 


BADEX-BADEX. 


May  Goethe's  beautiful  word? — written 
in  gold  letters  over  the  principal  entrance 
of  the  Frederic  Baths — be  realized  in  thou- 
sands and  thousands  of  persons  who,  after 
long  and  weary  sufferings,  may  regain 
health  by  the  rejuvenating  powers  of  the 
thermal  springs. 

The  Triiikhdl'c  is  beautifully  situated  on 
the  public  walks,  nearly  opposite  tiie  Hotel 
de  1'Europe.  The  water  is  convoyed  here 
from  the  spring  in  pipes,  and  visitors  drink 
it  lietween  the  hours  of  (5i  and  7^  A.M., 
promenading  around:  meanwhile  a  band 
discourses  most  elegant  music.  The  front 
of  the  hall  is  ornamented  with  frescoes, 
representing  legends  of  the  Black  Forest. 

The  great  and  universal  rendezvous, 
however,  is  the  Conversationshaus,  which  is 
the  most  splendid  establishment  of  this 
kind  in  the  world,  the  small  Chinese 
pagoda  in  front  of  which  cost  alone  70.000 
francs.  It  was  erected  in  1859.  and  in- 
tended  as  a  stand  for  the  band,  which  per- 
forms here  twice  a  day.  The  building— 
which  is  a  most  elegant  one,  with  a  Co- 
rinthian portico — includes  an  immense  as. 
sembly-room,  reading-room,  with  a  great 
choice  of  newspapers ;  coffee  and  billiard 
rooms,  open  all  the  year ;  a  splendid  res- 
taurant, where  dinners  may  be  had  a  la 
carte.  At  the  other  end  of  the  building  is 
a  theatre,  and  a  most  magnificently  fur- 
nished suite  of  apartments  for  assembly  and 
ball  purposes.  They  are  open  once  or 
twice  a  week.  Should  there  be  no  public 
entertainment  while  you  remain,  obtain 
permission  from  the  proprietor  to  visit  this 
suite  of  rooms ;  they  are  well  worth  seeing. 
The  season  is  at  its  height  during  July,  Au- 
gust, and  September.  Many  visitors  ar- 
rive as  early  as  the  1st  of  May,  staying  up 
to  the  1st  of  October,  and  five  months  can 
be  spent  here  as  pleasantly  as  at  any  spot 
in  Europe. 

The  following  are   special  attractions : 
grand  concerts ;    symphony   and  quartet 
soirees;  special  concerts  by  renowned  art-  ! 
ists;  bals  pares,  reunions;  children's  fes-  > 
tivals  ;  splendid  orchestra  (48  musicians), 
with  solo  -  players,  three  concerts  daily  : 
military  concerts ;   operas  and  comedies ; 
ballet;  fire- works  and  illuminations;  shoot- 
ing and  fishing;  pigeon-shooting, and  grand 
races. 

There  are  also  delightful  and  secluded 
promenades,  where   in   five  minutes  you 
TO.' 


may  enjoy  the  solitude  of  the  darkest 
woods  and  the  deepest  glens. 

Directly  above  the  town  is  the  new 
Schloss,  or  palace  of  the  grand-duke,  in 
which  his  ancestors  have  lived  for  the  last 
400  years,  a  fact  that  would  rather  relieve 
it  from  the  title  of  new  were  it  not  that  the 
old  Schloss  is  immediately  above  the  new, 
where  the  ancient  dukes  resided  previous 
to  the  loth  century.  The  building  is  re- 
markable for  the  curious  vaults  and  mys- 
terious dungeons  that  are  now  exhibited 
to  the  curious  by  the  castellan. 

The  Parish  Church  contains  several  in- 
teresting monuments.  It  is  the  burial- 
place  of  the  margraves  and  dukes  of  Ba- 
den, and  contains  the  monuments  of  Leo- 
pold William,  Louis  William  Frederick, 
bishop  of  Utrecht,  Marie-Victoire-Pauline, 
and  the  Margrave  Fhilihert. 

To  the  southeast  of  the  town  we  notice 
the  new  Protestant  Church.  It  is  finely 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kiver 
Oos.  It  was  consecrated  in  1864.  In  the 
three  windows  of  the  choir  are  beautiful 
representations  of  the  birth,  crucifixion, 
and  resurrection  of  the  Saviour.  In  the 
four  rosettes  are  portraits  of  Luther,  Cal- 
vin, Melanchthon,  and  Zwingli. 

On  the  hill  behind  the  Trinkhalle  is  the 
Greek  Chapel,  erected  at  the  expense  of 
the  Russian  Prince  Stourdza. 

The  Theatre,  although  small,  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  little  gems  in  Europe, 
and  does  honor  to  the  munificence  of  M. 
Benezet.  It  was  constructed  by  M.  Cou- 
teau,  and  does  the  architect  great  credit. 

A  short  distance  from  Baden-Baden  is 
situated  the  small  village  of  JJfezheim, 
which  has  lately  obtained  a  European  ce- 
lebrity by  its  beautiful  race- course,  proba- 
bly the  finest  in  Europe.  Here,  during  the 
early  days  of  September,  the  finest  horses 
and  the  elite  of  Europe  make  their  appear- 
ance. There  are  three  beautiful  tribunes, 
one  for  the  Grand-duke,  another  for  mem- 
bers of  the  jockey-clubs  and  representa- 
tives of  the  press,  and  another,  the  largest, 
for  the  use  of  the  general  public.  A  fine 
view  of  the  entire  course  may  be  obtained 
from  any  of  the  stands.  A  magnificent 
picture  of  a  race-day  has  lately  been  paint- 
ed by  Heyrault,  and  engraved  by  Harris. 
Most  of  the  numerous  characters  and  pa- 
trons of  the  turf  are  taken  from  life. 

Among  the  numerous  lovely -excursions 


BADEX-BADBS. 

around  Baden  are,  first,  the  i.ll  Scklost.  the 
original  resilience  of  the  reigning  house  of 
Baden,  and  one  of  the  most  interesting  ru- 
ins in  (Jena. my.  The  view  from  the  top, 
on  which  there  is  a  very  line  spy-glass  for 
the  benelit  (if  visitors,  is  very  grand — the 
town  of  Baden  at  your  feet,  the  luxuriant 
Black  Forest  on  one  side.  On  the  other 
,-iil'1  we  see  the  Rhine  vinding  through  it? 
lovely  plain.  int'-rsper.-ed  \\iih  ntics.  towns, 
and  villages,  the  whole  bordered  by  the 
-  Mountains  of  France.  In  a  clear 
clay  the  cathedral  spire  of  Strasburg — the 
highest  in  the  world — is  plainly  visible. 

There  is  a  restaurant  in  the  castle,  and 
breakfasts  or  dinners  may  be  obtained. 
Residents  at  Baden  frequently  make  ex- 
cursions for  the  purpose  of  breakfasting 
here.  Many  improvements  have  been 
made,  such  as  rooms  for  dancing,  etc. 

About  one  mile  northeast  of  the  old  cas- 
tle are  the  ruins  otElfrstfinburi/,  which  we 
pass  in  making  the  delightful  excursion  to 
The  I-'av  .rite.  This  lovely  summer  retreat 
was  built  in  172  J  by  the  Margravine  Sibylle- 
Auguste  of  Baden,  noted  for  her  beauty 
and  amours.  The  rooms  are  large  and 
comfortable,  but  ornamented  in  the  most 
singular  manner.  In  one  the  walls  are  of 
in  glass,  in  another  porcelain,  in 
another  they  arc  hung  with  tapestry  work- 
ed by  the  margravine  and  her  maids  of  hon- 
or. One  of  the  boudoirs  contains  72  por- 
traits of  the  margravine,  all  taken  in  dif- 
ferent costumes.  The  china  is  very  quaint 
and  antique.  The  dishes  for  the  table  are 
all  in  imitation  of  some  meat,  fruit,  or  veg- 
etable, such  as  ham,  duck,  woodcock,  as- 
paragus, cabbage,  artichoke,  or  melon. 

A  short  distance  from  the  palace  is  the 
Iltnnitage,  or  chapel,  where  the  margravine 
lived  during  Lent,  in  the  strictest  seclu- 
sion, seeing  no  one,  and  repenting  of  sins 
committed  during  the  preceding  year.  In 
this  chapel  are  shown  the  breastplate  and 
belt,  each  armed  with  nails,  which  she  wore 
n.mce,  besides  several  other  articles 
used  for  the  same  purpose,  such  as  a  cat- 
o'-nine-tails.  and  iron  plates  armed  with 
sharp  spikes,  which  she  put  into  the  heels 
of  her  shoes.  In  the  dining-room,  seated 
at  the  table,  are  three  wax  figures,  repre- 
senting Mary,  Joseph,  and  the  child  Jesus. 
clothed  in  garments  made  by  the  margra- 
vine's own  hands.  With  these  figures 
slie  diucd  overv  dav.  Her  bedroom  con- 


[Tlir.  KMI'IKi;  OF  GERMANY.] 


WlLDBAD. 


'  tains  simply  a  straw  mat,  upon  which  she 
slept. 

There  are  a  great  many  other  walks  and 
excursions  which  should  be  made,  viz. : 

Walks.—  The  Lichtenthal  Alley,  Swigs 
Chalet,  Thiergarten,  Leopoldshohe.  Sauers- 
berg,  Valley  of  Gunzenbach,  Fremersberg, 
Hunting-lodge,  Friesenberg,  the  new  Cas- 
tle (witli  park),  the  Echo,  Shooting-gallery, 
the  Ruins  of  the  Old  Castle,  the  Kocks,  the 
R  tiins  of  Ebersteinburg,  the  Angel's  and  the 
Devil's  Pulpit,  Tiirkenweg  (Turk's-way), 
the  Wolfrschlucht  (Wolf's  Gorge),  Mount 
Mercury,  Annaberg,  Falkenhalde  (Falcon's 
Holt),  the  Convent  of  Lichtenthal,  the  Ca- 
cilienberg  (lit.  St.  Cecilia,  Seelach,  Korb- 
rnattenfelsen,  the  Ruins  of  Yburg  Castle, 
the  Cascade  of  Geroldsau,  Gaisbach,  the 
Lichtenthal  Valley  (with  Piseicultural  Es- 
tablishment), the  Schmalbach  Valley,  etc. 

Excursions. — Eberstein  Castle,  Valley  of 
the  Mourg,  Gernsbach.  Weissenbach,  For- 
baeli,  Rothcnfels  (with  the  Elizabeth  Min- 
eral Springs),  the  Chateau  de  Plaisance 
(Favorite),  the  Forester's  House  of  the 
Plattig,  the  Badener  Hohe  and  Herren- 
wiese  (Baden  Heights  and  Lord's  Mead- 
ow), Xen weier,  Steinbach  and  Erwin's  Mon- 
ument, the  Buhlerthal,  the  Ruins  of  Win- 
deck,  Erlenbad,  Achern,  Mummelsee,  Hor- 
nisgrunde,  the  Valley  of  Oberkappel,  the 
Ruins  of  the  Convent  and  the  Cascades  of 
Allerheiligen,  the  Valley  of  the  Rench, 
Kinzig  Valley,  etc. 

Court  Photographer. — The  atelier  of  J/r. 
W.  Kuntzemiiller,  1  Friedrichstrasse,  is  to 
the  left  of  the  Cvnversationshaus. 

Baden-Baden  to  Paris,  via  Strasburg. 
Time,  13  h.  53  m. ;  fare,  56  marks  20  pf. ; 
— to  London,  via  Paris ;  time,  26  h.  33  m. ; 
fare,  10  marks  40  pf. :—  to  Frankfort ;  time, 
4  h.  5  m. ;  fare,  16  marks. 

WiUbad  may  be  reached  by  rail  from 
Pforzheim  (see  Route  No.  173).  This  place 
has  become  quite  celebrated  for  its  cures 
of  gout  and  rheumatism.  It  contains  3000 
inhabitants.  Principal  hotel,  Klumpp,  an 
elegant  and  complete  first -class  house, 
close  to  the  promenade,  and  opposite  the 
Conversation-house.  The  town  is  finely 
situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Enz,  on  both 
sides  of  that  river.  At  the  end  of  the  prin- 
cipal street  a  magnificent  Kurhaus  has  late- 
ly been  conducted,  containing  reading- 
rooms,  bath-rooms,  and  cafe. 

703 


AUSTRIA. 


POPULATION. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


ROYAL  FAMILY. 


WE  now  enter  one  of  the  largest,  most 
populous,  and  most  important  of  the  Euro- 
pean states,  viz.,  THE  EMPIKE  OF  AUSTRIA. 
According  to  its  recent  division,  the  Aus- 
trian Empire  embraces  seventeen  provinces 
or  governments,  some  of  which  are  countries 
of  large  extent;  their  names  and  popula- 
tion are  as  follows : 


Souare 
Miles. 

Population. 

1.  Austria  (Upper  aud  Lower) 
2.  Salzburg  

12,208 
2,788 
8,785 
4,053 
3,902 

3,052 

4,183 
11,109 
19,953 
8,602 
1,988 
33.  son 
22,196 
76,S03 
13,071 
15,138 

2,880,424 
153,159 
1,137,990 
336,400 
473,293 

549,960 

521,010 
885,789 
5,107,514 
2,030,783 
513,352 
4,705.525 
2,115,024 
11,979,303 
1,448,481 
437,000 

3.  Styria  

4.  (Jarinthia  

6.  Goertz,  Gradisca,  Is-) 
tria,  and  Trieste  .  .  )  " 

8.  Tyrol  and  Vorarlberg  
9.  Bohemia  

10.  Moravia  

11.  Silesia  

12.  Galicia  

13.  Transylvania  

14.  Hungary  

15.  Croatia  and  Slavouia.  .  .  . 
16.  Dalraatia  

17.  (Military  Frontier) 
Total  

241,691 

35,275,106 

The  empire  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Russia,  Prussia,  Poland,  and  Saxony;  on 
the  west  by  Bavaria,  Switzerland,  and  the 
kingdom  of  Italy ;  on  the  south  by  Italy, 
the  Adriatic  Sea,  and  Turkey ;  and  on  the 
east  by  Roumania  and  Russia.  Its  great- 
est length  is  860  miles,  and  its  average 
breadth  400  miles,  the  total  area  being 
nearly  twice  the  size  of  Great  Britain  and 
Ireland,  and  one  third  more  than  the  whole 
of  the  Middle  and  Northern  States  of  our 
own  country. 

The  countries  brought  together  under  the 
rule  of  Austria  comprise  a  greater  portion 
of  the  European  continent  than  belongs  to 
any  other  single  power  excepting  Russia. 
They  include  provinces  inhabited  by  people 
of  different  race  and  language,  and  whose 
only  bond  is  that  of  political  rule.  The 
nucleus  of  Austrian  power  is  German,  and 
thf  German  provinces  of  the  empire  com- 
prehend the  portion  of  its  population  that 
is  most  advanced  with  regard  to  civil  and 
social  condition.  But  the  German  prov- 
inces constitute  less  than  a  third  part  of 
704 


the  entire  extent  of  the  empire ;  the  Hun- 
garian countries  form  more  than  half  of 
its  entire  area,  and  include  two  fifths  of  its 
population.  Galicia,  or  Austrian  Poland, 
is  equal  to  one  eighth  of  the  whole  empire 
as  regards  size,  and  includes  more  than 
that  proportion  of  its  population.  Previ- 
ous to  1866  the  Italian  subjects  of  Austria 
amounted  to  one  eighth  of  the  population. 

The  chief  defect  of  the  empire,  in  regard 
to  natural  capabilities,  is  the  limited  extent 
of  its  sea-coast.  The  entire  range  of  this  is 
only  about  500  miles,  which  are  confined  to 
•the  shores  of  the  Adriatic ;  and  even  of 
this,  by  far  the  greater  part  belongs  to  the 
Hungarian  provinces,  a  portion  which  is 
only  united  to  the  empire  by  political  ne- 
cessity, and  liable  at  any  time  to  be  dis- 
severed. The  entire  frontier  measures  over 
4000  miles.  Most  of  the  provinces,  how- 
ever, are  united  by  peaceable  means,  that 
is,  by  inheritance  or  treaty,  and  their  bound- 
aries are  the  same  as  when  they  formed  in- 
dependent states.  The  principal  ports  are 
Trieste  and  Fiume,  in  Hungary. 

IMPERIAL  AND  ROYAL  FAMILY. 

Francis  Joseph  I.,  Charles,  Emperor  of 
Austria,  Apistoiic  King  of  Hungary,  King 
of  Bohemia,  etc.,  Jerusalem,  etc.,  born  Aug. 
18th,  1830,  married  April  24th,  1854,  to 

The  Empress  Elizabeth  -  A  melie  -  Eugenie, 
born  Dec.  24th,  1837,  daughter  of  Maximi- 
lian-Joseph, duke  of  Bavaria. 

Children  :  I.  Arch-duchess  Gwt'fe-Louise- 
Marie,  born  July  12th,  1856,  married  in  Vi- 
enna April  20th,  1873,  to  LeopoW-Maximili- 
an-Joseph-Marie-Arnolphe,  prince  of  Bava- 
ria, born  Feb.  9th,  1846. 

II.  Arch-duke  jRurfofyjA-Francis-Charles- 
Joseph,  prince  imperial  of  Austria,  hf-ir  to 
the  throne,  prince  royal  of  Hungary,  Bohe- 
mia, Jerusalem,  etc.,   married  in  Vienna 
May  10th,  1881,  to 

Arch-duchess  Sttphanie-ClotiUc-'Louise- 
Hermine-Marie-Charlotte,  duchess  of  Sax- 
ony, born  at  Lacken,  May  21st,  1S04.  daugh- 
ter of  the  King  of  the  Belgians.  Leopold 
II.,  and  of  the  Queen  Maria  Henrietta,  arch- 
duchess of  Austria. 

III.  Arch-duchess  Marie,  born  April  22d, 
1868. 


u  : 


par  J C-eisendorfer  a  r.  de,MeiL&~es  f 


Ilarperi 


sc 


Books 


HISTORY. 


[AUSTRIA.  1 


HlSTOk.. 


Austria  proper  was  originally  part  of 
the  Roman  provinces  respectively  called 
Norica  and  Upper  Pannonia.  It  became 
part  of  the  Roman  Empire  under  Tiberius, 
toward  the  year  .'53  A.D.  From  the  5th 
century  onward  it  was  invaded  in  turn 
by  the  Huns,  the  Ostrogoths,  the  Boians, 
the  Vandals,  the  Langobards,  and  then 
divided  between  the  Bavarians  and  the 
A  van's  until  the  time  when  Charlemagne 
drove  the  Avares  out  of  it  (799),  and  an- 
nexed it  to  his  empire  under  the  name  of 
Austria,  or  Eastern  .March.  In  928  Henry 
the  Falconer,  king  of  Germany,  in  order 
to  check  the  incursions  of  the  Hungarians, 
made  Austria  a  margravate.  In  982  Otho 
II.,  second  Emperor  of  Germany,  gave  the 
investiture  of  it  to  Leopold  of  Babenberg, 
or  Bamberg,  whose  descendants  pi. 
that  province,  first,  with  the  title  of  Mar- 
quis or  Margrave  (980),  then  with  that  of 
Duke  from  1156.  On  the  extinction  of 
this  family  (124Gi,  Austria  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.  (He- 
henstaufen) ;  then  into  those  of  Ottocar, 
king  of  Bohemia  (1251).  In  1273,  Rudolph 
of  Hap?hurg  w;is  elected  emperor.  This 
remarkable  prince,  the  founder  of  the 
house  of  Austria  and  first  promoter  of 
its  future  greatness,  was  the  eldest  son  of 
Albert,  Count  of  Hapsburg,  in  Switzerland, 
and  Landgrave  of  Alsace,  to  whom  he  suc- 
ceeded in  1240.  He  joined  the  above-named 
Ottocar  in  a  crusade  against  the  pagans  of 
Prussia  (1254) ;  added  to  his  possessions  the 
counties  of  Kybtirg,  Baden,  and  Lenzburg, 
and  came  into  such  high  repute  for  upright- 
ness, courage,  and  ability  that  the  cantons 
of  Schwyz,  Uri,  Unterwalden,  and  Zurich 
placed  themselves,  of  their  own  accord, 
under  his  protection.  The  imperial  dig- 
nity was  also  conferred  on  him,  as  he  was 
considered  equal  to  putting  down  the  an- 
archy which  had  been  tearing  the  empire 
to  pieces  ever  since  the  downfall  of  the 
house  of  Hohenstaufen.  and  incapable  at 
the  same  time  of  encroaching  on  the  rights 
of  the  reigning  princes.  Pope  Gregory  X. 
himself,  whom  Rudolph  had  conciliated  by 
boto  wing  on  him  the  exarchate  of  Ravenna 
and  other  possessions,  had  sanctioned  his 
election.  Ottocar,  nevertheless,  refused  to 
do  so.  Rudolph  thereupon  led  an  army 
into  Bohemia,  and  compelled  him  to  sue 


for  peace  (1276),  which  was  granted  only 
I iy  the  cession  of  Austria,  Styria,  and  (  ar- 
niola,  the  investiture  of  these  states  being 
by  the  Diet  forthwith  settled  on  Rudolph's 
eldest  son,  Albert  (1282),  whose  descend- 
ants have  continued  in  the  possession  of 
them,  first  with  the  title  of  dukes,  and  from 
1453  with  that  of  archdukes ;  and  it  thus 
became  the  house  of  Austria,  and  obtained, 
through  these  important  acquisitions,  won- 
derful preponderance  and  power.  Ottocar, 
however,  having  the  following  year  renew- 
ed the  war,  was  completely  routed,  and  per- 
ished in  the  decisive  battle  of  Marchfeld 
(1278). 

Rudolph  fully  answered  ultimately  the 
fond  expectations  of  those  by  whom  he 
had  been  raised  to  the  imperial  throne ;  for 
he  effectually  put  a  stop  to  the  tyranny  and 
brigandage  of  the  nobles  by  destroying 
their  strongholds,  and  thus  insured  public 
peace. 

Several  descendants  of  the  house  of 
Hapsburg,  or  Austria,  had,  after  Rudolph 
and  up  to  the  election  of  Albert  II.  (1438), 
occupied  the  imperial  throne  of  Germany. 
From  the  accession  of  this  prince  the  dig- 
nity of  emperor  became  hereditary.  To 
Austria  had  been  joined  Rudolph's  patri- 
mony, viz.,  Alsace,  Suabia,  and  the  protect- 
!  orate  of  part  of  Switzerland  (1282).  But 
I  Albert  I.,  who  bad  inherited  neither  the 
political  abilities  nor  the  upright  and  hon- 
orable character  of  his  illustrious  father, 
having  attempted  to  convert  into  sover- 
eignty the  rights  of  simple  patronage,  the 
whole  country  flew  to  arms,  and,  under  tho 
guidance  of  the  far-famed  William  Tell, 
succeeded,  after  a  three-years'  struggle, 
in  recovering  their  independence. 

The  marriage  of  Maximilian  with  Mary 
of  Burgundy,  daughter  of  Duke  Charles  the 
Bold  (1477),  gave  the  house  of  Austria  the 
Low  Countries,  Artois,  a  large  part  of  Bur- 
gundy, with  Franche-Comte ;  the  accession 
of  Charles  V.,  grandson  to  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella  of  Spain,  added  Spain,  with  her  im- 
I  mense  possessions  in  the  Old  and  the  New 
Worlds.     By  the  partition  of  territory  be- 
I  tween   Charles  V.  and  Archduke  Ferdi- 
!  nand,  his  brother,  the  Low  Countries  and 
'  Burgundy,  with   its   dependencies,  fell   to 
i  the  lot  of  the  Spanish  branch  of  Austria. 
'  Ferdinand  retained  possession  of  the  arch- 
duchy of  Austria  with  all  its  dependencies, 
to  which  he  added  Bohemia,  and  Hungary 
705 


HlSTOBT. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


GoVKIQUfKNT. 


through  his  marriage  with  Anno,  sister  of 
King  Louis,  who  was  killed  at  the  battle 
of  Mohacz  (1526) — then  Moravia,  Silesia, 
and  Lusatia.  The  Treaty  of  Westphalia 
detached  from  Austria  the  last-named  prov- 
ince as  well  as  Alsace :  these  losses  were, 
however,  compensated  by  the  acquisition  of 
Transylvania  and  Croatia.  The  t:-<  atirs  of 
Utrecht  (1713)  and  Kasta.lt  (17H)  brought 
to  Austria  the  inheritance  of  Charles  V., 
kingof  Spain, consisting  of  Burgundy  and  its 
appendages,  the  duchy  of  Mantua,  and  the 
kingdoms  of  Naples  and  Sardinia.  In  1720 
Austria  exchanged  Sardinia  for  Sicily  ;  in 
1735  she  ceded  to  the  Infant  Don  Carlos  the 
Two  Sicilies,  and  received  in  exchange 
Parma,  Placentia,  and  Guastalla.  These 
easy  acquisitions,  mostly  brought  about 
through  marriages,  inspired  some  wit  with 
the  following  distich : 

"  liella  gernnt  alii ;  tu,  ftlix  Austria,  nube: 
Xani  ({'  IK  Mar.?  ulii.s,  dat  tibi  regna  Venus." 

In  1740,  the  male  line  of  the  house  of 
Austria  having  become  extinct  by  the 
death  of  the  Emperor  Charles  VI.,  his 
daughter,  Maria  Theresa,  became  Empress 
of  Germany,  and  succeeded  to  all  the  late 
emperor's  hereditary  dominions.  Her  hus- 
band, Francis  of  Lorraine,  grand-duke  of 
Tuscany,  was,  after  a  lengthened  contest, 
raised  to  the  imperial  dignity  (1745),  under 
the  name  of  Francis  I.,  and  became  the  head 
of  the  new  house  of  Autriche  -  Lorraine. 
Austria,  at  the  termination  of  the  Seven- 
years'  War,  ceded  to  Frederick  the  Great 
the  best  part  of  Silesia  (1763),  but  obtained, 
in  the  partition  of  Poland,  Galicia  and  Lo- 
domeria,  to  which  was  added  Bukowina, 
ceded  by  Turkey  in  1777. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  attempt  any  sketch 
of  the  fluctuations  of  the  Austrian  power 
during  the  eventful  period  that  has  elapsed 
since  the  breaking  out  of  the  French  Rev- 
olution in  1789.  At  certain  stages  of  her 
great  struggle  with  France,  Austria  seem- 
ed to  be  depressed  to  the  rank  of  a  second- 
rate  power.  But  the  insatiable  ambition 
of  Napoleon  effecting  his  downfall,  Austria 
was  left  at  the  end  of  the  contest  as  pow- 
erful as  over,  the  loss  of  the  Low  Countries 
being  fully  compensated  by  her  acquisi- 
tions in  Italy  and  elsewhere. 

In  1804  Francis  assumed  the  title  of  he- 
reditary Emperor  of  Austria,  and  on  the 
Cth  of  August,  1806,  renounced  the  title  of 
706 


Emperor  of  Germany.  The  latter  event 
had  been  preceded  by  the  formation  of  the 
Confederation  of  the  Rhine,  and  the  entire 
dissolution  of  the  old  Germanic  Confedera- 
tion. His  son,  Ferdinand  I.,  succeeded 
him  in  March,  1835,  and  he  was  succeeded 
by  the  present  emperor,  Francis  Joseph, 
born  Aug.  18,  1830,  ascended  the  throne 
Dec.  2, 1848. 

The  government  of  Austria  is  an  hered- 
itary and  almost  absolute  monarchy,  in 
which  the  chief  legislative  as  well  as  the 
executive  power  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Em- 
peror. Nearly  three  fourths  of  the  popu- 
lation cf  Austria  are  the  followers  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church.  Next  in  num- 
bers are  the  members  of  the  Greek  Church, 
who  are  most  numerous  in  Transylvania, 
Southern  Hungary,  Slavonia,  Croatia,  and 
Galicia.  Members  of  the  various  Protest- 
ant churches  are  found  chiefly  in  Hun- 
gary and  Transylvania ;  in  these  countries, 
however,  as  in  the  bulk  of  the  empire,  the 
people  are  Roman  Catholics,  and  the  Prot- 
estants are  confined  to  the  Magyar  portion 
of  the  population. 

Education  is  not  generally  in  an  ad- 
vanced condition  in  Austria,  though  more 
so  in  the  German-speaking  provinces  than 
in  other  parts  of  the  empire;  but  in  our 
country  we  have  a  wrong  impression  en- 
tirely. The  spirit  of  elementary  instruc- 
tion, if  not  the  most  enlightened,  inculcates, 
at  every  step,  morality,  the  advantage  and 
happiness  of  a  virtuous  life,  the  evils  of 
vice,  and  the  miseries  consequent  on  crime. 

The  military  resources  are  considerable. 
and  a  very  large  standing  army  is  main- 
tained. Military  science  is  highly  esteem- 
ed, and  there  are  various  institutions  for 
the  purpose  of  its  cultivation  at  Vienna 
and  other  principal  cities  of  the  empire. 
The  people  of  the  southern  counties  lead  a 
semi-military  life,  and  are  almost  constant- 
ly under  arms.  The  navy  is  small  and  of 
modem  date,  but  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Adriatic  coasts  and  islands  are  enterpris- 
ing ship  -builders  and  mariners,  and  are 
much  addicted  to  nautical  pursuits.  The 
estimated  strength  of  the  Austrian  army, 
when  on  a  war  footing,  is  little  short  of 
821,000.  The  navy  consists  of  72  vessels 
of  all  descriptions,  the  tonnage  of  which 
is  109,820  tons,  carrying  522  cannon  :  47 
of  these  vessels  are  steamers.  : 

As  every  province  in  Austria  forms  a 


J  A  so  r.\  <;!•;. 


separate  land,  each  has  its  peculiar  lan- 
guage or  dialect,  and  its  extinguishing 
(.•u.-toins  and  habits,  (if  tin-  .SI  tvonic  lan- 
guages, tlm  lVli>h  po-se»-cs  the  riclu-st 
literature  :  but  the  Bohemian  has  of  late 
years  been  highly  cultivated,  :mil  frrms 
the  written  language  of  the  Moravians  and 
Slowaks  of  the  northwest  counties  of  Hun- 


gary. 


The  dialect  of  Oarniola  has  been 


methodized,  and  is  grammatically  taught 
as  the  written  language  of  Illyria  and  Cro- 
atia. The  ephemeral  existence  of  the  II- 
lyrian  kingdom,  established  by  Napoleon, 
sufficed  to  call  forth  the  powers  of  a  lyric 
poet  of  considerable  merit  named  Wodnik, 
who  wrote  in  this  dialect. 

The  Slavonian  nations  have  all  the  dis- 
tinguishing characteristics  of  ardent  feel- 
ings and  sanguiuity  of  temperament,  which 
makes  them  more  easily  elated  and  sooner 
depressed  than  their  neighbors  the  Ger- 
mans. They  are  fond  of  music,  and  every 
district  has  its  national  airs,  which  are 
often  of  great  antiquity, and  usually  plaint- 
ive. Among  the  Slavonians  the  Poles  are 


[AUSTRIA.]  MOSEY. 

ful  uttilo,  (a  frock-coat  trimmed  with  fur) 
are  only  worn  on  state  occasions  by  the 
nobles  ;  but  the  tight  pantaloon  and  short 
boot  is  the  usual  dress  of  the  peasant,  who 
also  wears  a  blue  jacket  and  low-brimmed 
hat.  Though  fond  of  music,  the  Hunga- 
rians are  no  musiciaus.  The  national 
dances  are  often  highly  pantomimic,  and 
the  Magyar,  who  is  seldom  seen  to  smile, 
expresses  the  excitement  of  his  feelings, 
whether  in  joy  or  sorrow,  in  dancing.  The 
Magyar  language  is  used  in  the  courts  of 
justice  and  in  the  public  offices.  The  dress 
of  the  Wallachian  peasantry  on  festive  oc- 
casions is  highly  ornamental  and  becoming. 
The  Italian  costume  is  both  rich  and  ele- 
gant, especially  the  head-dresses  of  the 
women,  which  are  more  tasteful  than  those 
worn  on  the  north  side  of  the  Alps.  In  the 
conflict  for  superiority  between  the  Ger- 
mans and  Italians,  neither  nation  does  per- 
haps justice  to  the  good  qualities  of  the 
other;  but  the  northern  Italian  must  be 
allowed  the  merit  of  displaying  those  of 
continence,  sobriety,  and  industry  in  a 


distinguished  by  a  martial  disposition  and    high  degree,  though  he  be  less  the  slave 
love  of  show.    The  national  eostume  is  now    of  form  than  his  German  neighbor. 


only  kept  among  the  peasantry,  whose  win- 
ter dresses  especially  are  tasteful  and  even 
elegant.  In  the  other  Slavonic  nations  of 
the  empire  the  love  of  ornament  is  less  re- 
markable, the  national  spirit  having  sunk 


A  large  portion  of  the  Austrian  dominions 
are  occupied  by  the  Alps,  and  its  scenery 
is  most  enchanting.  Sir  Humphrey  Davy 
says.  "The  variety  of  the  scenery,  the  verd- 
ure of  the  meadows  and  trees,  the  depths 


in  the  lapse  of  time   during  which  they    of  the  valleys  and  altitudes  of  the  mount-- 


have been  dependent.  No  Slavonic  dia- 
lect is  used  in  the  courts  of  justice,  or  in 
public  instruction  in  the  higher  schools  of 
the  empire. 

The  German  peasants  wear  the  dress 
commonly  met  with  all  over  Germany, 
with  varieties  in  the  color  and  head-gear 


ains,  the  clearness  and  grandeur  of  the 
rivers  and  lakes,  give  it,  I  think,  a  decided 
superiority  over  Switzerland."  There  is 
a  greater  disparity  in  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  people  than  in  the  scenery 
of  the  two  countries.  In  Austria  you  are 
struck  with  the  warm  reception  accorded 


in    nearly   every    village.      The  Austrian  j  to  you  from  all  with  whom  you  come  in 
women  wear  caps  or  bonnets  made  with  ;  contact,  and  the  earnest  desire  evinced  to 
gold  lace  and  decorated  with  spangles.    In  i  give  you  all  thev  can  for  your  monev. 
Tyrol  the  German  costume  is  most  pictur-  j      Money. — Accounts  in  Austria  are  kept 
esque.  :  in  florins  and  kreutzers.     A  florin  at  par 

The  German  language  is  that  used  in  =  50  c.  U.  S.  currency ;  but  its  value,  as 
transacting  public  business  in  the  German  paper  money  fluctuates,  is  from  35  c.  t<>  H 
and  Slavonian  provinces,  and  in  the  uni-  c.  U.  S.  currency.  One  hundred  kreutzers 


versities  on  the  north  side  of  the  Alps. 

TheMagyar>.  «.r  inhabitants  of  the  Hun- 
garian plains,  of  Tartar  descent,  are  a  high- 
spirited  race,  warmly  attached  to  their  hab- 
its and  rights  Their  national  costume  is 
the  most  splendid  in  Europe,  and  everv 
family  wears  its  distinguishing  colors.  The 
rich  dolman  (hussar  jacket)  and  the  taste- 


=  1  florin. 


AUSTBIAN   MONTT. 

F.    K. 

(Pieces  of S  ft" 

"^Imperial  .Uieat 4  TO 

Nores  of  1,  5,  10,  50,  100,  and 

1000  florin?. 
Silver :     Pieces  of  10  and  20  kreutzers. 
Copper :  Pieces  of  1  nnd  4  kreutzers. 
707 


Gold: 
Paper : 


[AUSTRIA.] 


VlEXKA. 


VIENNA. 

Vienna,  the  capital  of  the  Austrian  Em 
pire,  is  situated  on  the  level  of  the  Danube. 
Population,  1,103,857.  Hotels:  delnMe- 
tropo'e,  Golden  Lumb,  Sucker's  Hotel  de  I' Op- 
era. The  Hotel  de  la  Metropole,  a  mag-l 
nifieent  edifice,  containing  30  parlors  and' 
400  chambers,  is  fitted  up  in  most  eleganti 
style,  and  contains  a  fine  view  of  the  Dan-J 
ube ;  its  restaurant  is  renowned.  It  is  un- 
der the  experienced  direction  of  Mr.  Speiser. 
Hotel  Golden  Lumb,  an  old-established,  first- 
class  house  in  the  Praterstrasse,  has  for 
many  years  been  a  favorite  hotel  with  Eng- 
lishmen and  Americans.  It  should  not  be 
confounded  with  a  house  of  the  same  name 
in  another  street.  Backer's  Hotel  de  f  Op- 
era, 4  Augustinerstrasse,  is  a  fine,  first-class ; 
house,  opposite  the  Opera,  and  in  the  finest 
quarter  of  Vienna,  the  Ring,  etc.  Its  res-  • 
taurant  is  celebrated  as  being  one  of  the 
first  in  Europe ;  Sucker's  Summer  Restau- 
rant, in  the  Prater,  is  also  greatly  frequent- 
ed during  that  season.  • 

Vienna  Is  a  city  of  ancient  origin,  and 
has  been  the  scene  of  many  interesting  his- 
torical events.  It  was  successively  taken 
by  the  Goths  and  Hun?,  and  subsequently 
by  Charlemagne,  who  placed  it  under  the 
government  of  the  margraves  of  the  East,  as 
part  of  his  dominions,  whence  it  was  called 
Oesterreicfi,  and  then  Austria.  The  mar- 
graves, afterward  dukes,  held  Vienna  until 
the  middle  of  the  13th  century,  when  it  was 
taken  by  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.,  and 
again  by  Rudolph  I.,  founder  of  the  Haps- 
burg  dynasty,  in  1297.  The  Hungarians 
vainly  besieged  it  in  1477;  but  eight  years 
later  it  was  obliged  to  surrender  to  Mathias, 
who  then  possessed  the  united  crowns  of 
Hungary  and  Bohemia,  and  made  it  the 
seat  of  his  court.  Since  the  time  of  Maxi- 
milian I.  it  has  been  the  usual  residence  of 
708 


the  archdukes  of  Austria  and  emperors  of 
Germany.  The  most  memorable  event  in 
its  history,  however,  and  one  that  largely 
influenced  the  fortunes  of  Christendom, 
was  its  famous  siege  in  1683  by  a  Turkish 
army  '200,000  strong,  under  the  command 
of  Kara  Mustapha,  when  it  was  only  saved 
from  surrender  by  the  timely  arrival  of 
John  Sobieski,  the  heroic  King  of  Poland, 
who  defeated  the  besiegers  with  great 
slaughter  under  the  very  walls  of  the  city. 
In  1619  Vienna  was  unsuccessfully  block- 
aded by  the  Bohemian  Protestants.  In 
1805  it  submitted  to  the  conquering  arms 
of  the  first  Napoleon,  and  again,  after  a 
short  resistance,  in  1809. 

Vienna  is  of  nearly  circular  form,  be- 
ing twelve  miles  in  circumference.  The 
old  city,  or  city  proper,  is,  however,  scarce- 
ly three  miles  round  ;  it  was  formerly  in- 
closed by  fortifications.  Immediately  out- 
side of  these  was  a  wide  esplanade,  called 
the  Glad*,  which  has  recently  been  elegant- 
ly built  up,  and  is  called  Ringstrasse — one 
of  the  most  splendid  streets  in  the  world. 
Beyond  are  the  extensive  suburbs  of  the 
capital,  which  are  about  fifteen  miles  in 
circumference.  In  addition  to  the  Ring- 
strasse, Vienna  possesses  numerous  fine 
public  promenades,  among  which  are  two 
extensive  parks — the  Prater  and  the  Au- 
garten.  The  Prater,  beginning  at  the  end 
of  the  Praterstrasse  in  the  suburb  called 
Leopoldstadt,  was  formerly  a  large  park 
where  deer  were  kept,  and  is  now  the  fa- 
vorite promenade  of  the  Viennese.  The 
chief  alley — about  2^  miles  long — forms 
the  centre  of  reunion  for  the  better  classes, 
and  in  the  month  of  May  is  thronged  with 
all  the  elegant  equipages  of  the  city.  At 
the  left  side  of  this  superb  carriage-road 
there  are  coffee-houses,  restaurants,  music- 
halls,  etc.  This  part  of  the  Prater  is  chief- 
ly frequented  by  the  lower  classes,  and  on 
Sundays  is  generally  crowded.  Near  the 
entrance,  at  your  left,  is  the  Aquarium, 
which  is  well  worth  seeing,  and  about 
half  a  mile  farther  down  is  the  Exhibition 
Palace  of  1873.  The  chief  buildings  still 
exist,  but  in  a  few  years  they  will  be  de- 
molished. The  Augarten  is  a  very  shady 
place  in  the  proximity  of  the  Prater.  The 
other  principal  public  gardens  are  Belvedere 
Garten.  Schwarzenberg  Garten,  Botanis- 
cher  Garten,  Stadtpark,  and  Volksgartpn. 

Vienna,  from  its  wealth  and  size,  comes 


37  AvyJkA  K>  tn/tmtimn  fit 

ft  -  'il 
39  >»>wii  Mff'  42  TaltivatiM  ./trt 


*~-:.t&xm 


N  A 


VIENNA. 


nearer  London  and  Paris  than  any  other 
European  city.  It  (lifters  from  these  rit- 
ies  in  this  respect,  that  it  preserves  about 
it  more  antique  grandeur,  and  that  it  is 
the  old,  and  not  the  new  pans  of  the  city 
that  form  the  fa>hioiiable  quarters,  and 
rniiMins  most  of  the  objects  of  interest 
whii-h  Vienna  j TCM nts  to  the  stranger,  in- 
cluding, besides  the  imperial  palace,  those 
of  Prince  Esterhazy,  Lichtt-nstein,  Met- 
ternich,  Schwarzenberg,  and  Auersberg, 
aa  well  as  the  principal  churches,  muse- 
ums, galleries,  libraries,  and  public  offices 
of  every  kind.  There  is  no  city  in  Europe 
that  has  so  large  a  number  of  resident  no- 
bility as  Vienna.  There  are  nearly  200 
families  of  princes,  counts,  and  barons 
who  make  Vienna  their  residence  the  great- 
er part  of  the  year,  spending  from  $50,000 
to  $200,000  yearly.  It  is  said,  with  the 
exception  of  London,  the  citizens  of  Vien- 
na are  the  richest  in  Europe. 

The  streets  in  the  suburbs  of  Vienna  are 
generally  broad  and  straight ;  but  some  of 
them,  being  unpaved,  are  in  wet  weather 
muddy  and  dirty,  and  in  dry  weather  dusty. 
The  thoroughfares  in  the  city  proper  are, 
on  the  contrary,  uniformly  clean  and  well 
paved.  Most  of  the  squares  or  spaces  in 
Vienna  are  ornamented  with  fountains  or 
monuments.  In  the  Josephsplatz  is  a  fine 
equestrian  statue  of  Joseph  II. ;  in  the 
interior  Burgplatz  that  of  the  Emperor 
Francis  I. ;  in  the  exterior  Burgplatz  the 
equestrian  statues  of  Prince  Eugene  of 
Savoy  and  Archduke  Charles  ;  in  the 
Stadtpark  the  fine  statue  of  the  celebrated 
musician  Schubert,  and  in  the  Schwarzen- 
bergplatz  that  of  the  renowned  General 
Schwarzenberg. 

Vienna  is  far  from  being  distinguished 
as  a  literary  city,  and  amusement  seems 
to  form  a  principal  object  of  its  pleasure- 
seeking  population.  A  fondness  for  music 
is  general  among  all  classes.  The  Vien- 
nese have,  in  fact,  been  described  as  a 
more  eating  and  drinking,  good-natured, 
illiterate,  laughing,  pleasure-loving,  and, 


[AUSTRIA.]  VIENNA. 

character  about  which  they  display  much 
jealousy  or  anxiety.  So  long  as  it  is  grant- 
ed that  they  can  produce  among  their  citi- 
/.ens  a  greater  number  of  decent  perform- 
ers on  the  violin  or  piano  than  any  other 
capital,  they  have  no  earthly  objection  to 
have  it  said  that  they  can  likewise  produce 
a  greater  number  of  blockheads  and  dcl>- 
auchees."  "With  all  due  deference  to  Mr. 
Ku^sell,  we  must  beg  to  differ  with  him, 
although  they  may  well  be  proud  of  their 
musical  composers.  Mozart,  Haydn,  Bee- 
thooven,  and  others  have  composed  their 
best  works  in  or  near  Vienna. 


PUBLIC   BUILDINGS. 

Cathedral  of  St.  Stephen,  which  stands 
in  the  very  heart  of  the  city,  and  from 
which  radiate  nearly  all  the  streets  not 
only  of  the  city  proper,  but  ,.lso  those  of 
the  suburbs.  It  is  an  elegant  Gothic  build- 
ing of  imposing  dimensions,  being  equal 
in  size  and  richness  of  architecture  to  those 
of  Strasburg  and  Antwerp.  Its  length 
is  850  feet,  breadth  220  feet,  and  height  of 
its  graceful  spire.  450  feet.  Its  bell  weighs 
358  cwt..  and  was  made  of  the  180  pieces 
of  cannon  taken  from  the  Turks.  Midway 
up  the  tower  is  the  fine  watch-station  of 
the  city,  where  a  watchman  stands  ;  a  tel- 
escope is  arranged  in  such  a  manner  that, 
when  he  sees  a  fire,  by  reference  to  the 
chart  of  the  city  he  can  discover  in  what 
street  and  number  it  is.  He  immediately, 
by  the  aid  of  the  telegraph,  conveys  the 
information  to  the  fire-office,  when  in  a 
very  short  time  assistance  is  on  the  spot. 
The  view  from  the  top  of  the  spire  is  most 
magnificent,  taking  in  the  famous  battle- 
fields of  Wagram,  Lobau,  and  Essling,  as 
well  as  the  suburbs  of  the  city  and  wind- 
ings of  the  Danube.  The  interior  of  the 
cathedral  is  rich  in  sculpture  and  stained 
glass.  The  principal  objects  of  interest 
it  contains  are  the  gorgeous  chapel  of 
the  Lichtenstein  family,  the  monument  of 
Prince  Eugene,  who  is  buried  here,  and 
that  of  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.  This 


withal,  hospitable  set  of  people  than  the  ,  last  is  decorated  with  240  figures,  and  rep- 
inhabitants  of  any  other  large  city  in  Eu-  I  resentations  of  40  coats  of  arms.  Around 
rope.  Neither  here  nor  in  any  other  large  !  the  sceptre  in  the  hand  of  the  effigy  are 
town  in  Germany  do  social  morals  occupy  the  vowels,  which  was  Frederick's  motto, 
a  very  high  grade.  Mr.  Russell  says.  "The 
Viennese  take  to  themselves  the  reputa- 
tion of  being  the  most  musical  people  in 


Europe,  and  this  is  the  only  part  of  their 
VOL.  II.— H  2 


A,  E,  I,  O,  U  :  Austria  Est  Imperare  Orbi 
Universe,  "Austria  must  rule  the  world." 
The  crypt  of  St.  Stephen's  has  been  the 


burial-place  of  the  royal  family  for  cen- 
709 


VIENNA. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


VIENNA. 


turies,  but  for  the  last  200  years  only  the 
bowels  of  the  dead  have  been  interred 
here.  Their  bodies  have  been  deposited 
in  the  Church  of  the  Capuchins,  and  their 
hearts  in  the  Church  of  the  Augustrnesl 
The  open  space  that  now  surrounds  the 
cathedral  was  formerly  a  church-yard,  but 
Francis  Joseph  II.  ordered  the  remains  to 
be  removed  and  placed  in  the  vaults  under 
the  church,  and  the  ground  to  be  paved. 

The  Church  ofih>-  Aiywftinta  is  one  of 
the  handsomest  in  Vienna.  It  is  princi- 
pally noted  for  the  masterpiece  of  Canova, 
the  monument  of  the  Archduchess  Chris- 
tine. It  consists  of  a  pyramid  of  marble' 
30  feet  high,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  an 
opening  representing  the  entrance  to  the 
vault.  This  is  reached  by  two  broad  mar~ 
ble  steps,  which  are  the  base  of  the  pyra- 
mid. Ascending  the  steps  is  a  figure  rep- 
resenting Virtue  .bearing  an  urn  which, 
contains  the  ashes  of  the  deceased.  By 
her  side  are  two  little  girls,  carrying  torch- 
es; behind  them  is  a  figure  of  Benevolence 
supporting  an  old  man  bowed  down  by 
age  and  grief.  A  little  child  accompanies 
him,  the  very  picture  of  innocence  and  sor- 
row. On  the  other  side  is  an  admirably 
drawn  figure  of  a  mourning  genius,  and  at 
his  feet  crouches  a  melancholy  lion.  Over 
the  entrance  to  the  vault  is  a  medallion  of 
the  archduchess,  held  up  by  Happiness, 
while  a  genius  is  presenting  her  with  a 
palm,  indicative  of  success.  There  are 
also  monuments  of  Leopold  II.,  General 
Daun,  Van  Swieten,  and  others.  Through 
the  door  to  the  Loretto  Chapel  may  be 
seen  the  silver  urns  in  which  are  contain- 
ed the  hearts  of  the  imperial  family,  con< 
spicuous  among  which  are  those  of  Maria 
Theresa  and  Napoleon  II. 

The  Church  of  the  Capuchins  contains  the 
vault  where  are  interred  the  bodies  of  the 
royal  family.  This  vault  is  shown  at  all 
times  by  torchlight,  under  the  guidance 
ef  one  of  the  brothers  ;  but  you  must  not 
come  during  dinner-hour ;  gold  will  not 
move  them  then.  One  of  the  first  coffins 
the  visitor  will  look  for  will  be  that  of  the 
only  son  of  the  great  Napoleon,  the  only 
prince  of  the  Napoleon  dynasty,  with  the 
exception  of  the  late  Emperor  Napole- 
on III.  and  his  son  Eugene,  born  under 
the  imperial  purple.  There  is  a  sorrowful 
romance  connected  with  his  life  and  death 
that  makes  it  an  object  of  universal  attrac- 
710 


tion.  It  is  of  simple  copper,  with  a  raised 
cross  upon  it.  Not  far  removed  from  this 
is  the  coffin  of  his  grandfather,  the  late 
Emperor  Francis  III.,  who  was  passionately 
fond  of  the  prince  during  his  life,  and  re- 
quested to  be  placed  near  him  after  death. 
The  coffin  of  Joseph  I.  is  of  pure  silver. 
Here  also  are  those  of  Joseph  II.,  his  fa- 
ther Francis,  and  his  mother  Maria  The- 
resa. It  is  said  of  the  last  that  for  thir- 
teen years  she  every  day  descended  this 
mausoleum  to  mourn  for  her  husband,  until 
death  gave  her  permission  to  lie  continu- 
ally by  his  side.  There  are  over  eighty 
coffins  in  this  narrow  house  of  royalty. 
The  unadorned  coffin  of  the  early  instruct- 
or of  the  Empress  Maria  Theresa,  the 
Countess  Fuchs,  lies  here,  by  the  special 
request  of  the  empress. 

The  Votivldrche,  situated  before  the 
Schottenthor,  is  well  worth  a  visit,  as  it  is 
a  building  of  perfect  Gothic  style.  It  was 
founded  by  the  late  Emperor  Maximilian 
of  Mexico,  in  commemoration  of  an  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  made  upon  the  Emperor  of 
Austria's  life  by  a  Hungarian  assassin. 

The  other  principal  churches  in  Vienna 
are  the  Carmelite  church,  which  has  some 
fine  stained  glass,  the  church  of  St.  Mi- 
chael, and  the  St.  Charles  Borromeo,  a  splen- 
did building  in  the  Byzantine  style  of  ar- 
chitecture. There  are  some  sixty  other 
churches,  eighteen  conventual  establish- 
ments, a  Scotch  church,  several  Greek 
churches,  and  a  number  of  synagogues. 

The  Imperial  Palace,  or  Burg  is  a  con- 
fused mass  of  buildings  occupying  a  large 
extent  of  ground,  attached  to  which  is 
the  Imperial  Riding-school,  the  Library, 
the  Jewel  office,  a  museum  of  Antiquities, 
Minerals,  Zoology,  and  Botany.  The  im- 
perial apartments  arc  shown  when  the 
court  is  absent.  There  are  hundreds  of 
palaces  in  Europe  far  superior  to  this  in 
magnificence,  although  it  contains  some 
fine  collections  in  art  and  science.  Adjoin- 
ing this  is  the  palace  of  the  Archduke  Al- 
bert, which  is  a  very  splendid  structure. 
It  contains  one  of  the  finest  collections  of 
engravings  and  drawings  in  Europe  :  they 
were  mostly  collected  by  the  Duke  of  Saxe- 
Teschen,  and  largely  increased  by  his  son- 
in-law,  the  late  Archduke  Charles ;  they 
amount  to  more  than  200,000.  There  are 
over  one  hundred  sketches  and  drawings 
by  Raphael ;  among  these  is  the  sketch  for 


VIENNA. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


his  great  picture,  the  Transfiguration.  The 
figures  aro  all  drawn  naked,  for  the  purpose 
of  studying  the.  anatiunv  of  each  figure. 
There  are  a  large  number  of  sketches  by 
Michael  Angelo,  including  the  figures 
for  his  Last  Judgment.  The  gallery  is 
open  on  Mondays  and  Thursdays,  from  9 
tol. 

Attached  to  the  Imperial  Library  is  an- 
other magnificent  collection  of  engravings, 
commenced  by  the  Prince  Eugene,  num- 
Jering  nearly  :l"0,OuO.  In  this  collection 
are  whole  volumes  of  the  drawings  of  Ra- 
phael. Rembrandt.  Vandyke,  Rubens,  Al- 
bert Diirer.  and  other  great  masters.  The  j 
Imp-  r'd!  Library  is  a  beautiful  building,  ! 
Mtuated  on  the  Josephsplatz.  It  contains 
nearly  350,000  volumes  and  20,000  manu- 
M-ri]>ts.  In  the  centre  of  the  grand  hall,  a 
splendid  apartment  '2-Ki  feet  long,  54  feet 
wide,  and  GO  high,  is  situated  a  statue  of 
Charles  VI.,  founder  of  the  library;  at 
least  it  was  thrown  open  to  the  public  for  , 
the  first  time  by  this  monarch.  Among 
its  other  curiosities,  it  contains  the  Psalm- 
book  of  Charlemagne,  in  gold  letters,  and 
an  engraving  on  bronze  of  an  act  of  the 
Roman  Senate  prohibiting  the  Bacchanalia, 
bearing  date  18t>  years  lie  fore  Christ  ;  also 
the  MS.  nf  Tasso's  Jerusalem  Delivered, 
Dante's  Divina  Comedia,  in  two  copies, 
from  the  14th  and  10th  centuries,  and  a 
military  map  of  the  Roman  Empire  in  the 
fourth  centurv. 

The  Cabinet  of  Antiquities  contains  many 
rich  and  valuable  relics.  It  is  open  on 
Mondays  and  Fridays.  It  contains  125,000 
coins  and  medals,  50,000  of  which  are  Greek 
and  Roman.  Here  may  be  seen  the  cele- 
brated salt-cellar  carved  by  Benvenuto 
Cellini  for  Francis  I.  It  was  formerly  in 
the  Ambras  Museum.  There  are  several 
other  works  here  by  this  celebrated  artist : 
his  Leda  and  the  Swan,  etc.  The  finest 
cameo  in  the  world  is  in  this  collection. 
The  workmanship  is  considered  the  per- 
fection of  art :  it  represents  the  Apotheosis 
of  Augustus,  and  is  about  '26  inches  in  cir- 
cumference. 

The  Cabinet  of  Minerals,  which  is  open 
on  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays,  contains 
some  fine  specimens  of  diamond  crystals 
and  fossil  remains  ;  also  a  large  collection 
of  meteoric  stones,  which  have  fallen  from 
the  sky  in  different  parts  of  the  world,  some 
of  then\  weighing  a»  much  as  70  pounds. 


Among  the  most  noteworthy'  relics  is  a  bou- 
quet of  flowers,  made  of  precious  stones,  for 
the  Empress  Maria  Theresa. 

The  Museum  of  Natural  History,  Zool- 
ogy, and  Botany  is  considered  second  to 
none  in  Europe.  The  specimens  of  birds 
are  very  complete.  The  leading  curiosities 
are,  an  immense  goose  with  four  ! 
pigeon  with  the  same  number  of  pedal  sup- 
porters, a  horse  covered  with  long  woolly 
hair,  and  a  horned  owl.  This  museum  is 
open  only  on  Thursdays. 

The  most  interesting  apartment,  how- 
ever, in  this  vast  establishment  is  the 
Schatzkammer,  or  Imperial  Jewel  Office, 
which  may  be  visited  on  Tuesday,  Thurs- 
day, and  Saturday  by  ticket,  although  one 
florin  is  quite  as  effectual,  and  perhaps 
more  so,  as  it  secures  a  deal  of  informa- 
tion from  the  custodian  that  a  ticket 
i.ot.  Tickets  of  admission  must  be 
procured  one  day  previous.  The  articles 
and  relics  contained  in  these  chambers 
are  rare  and  beautiful,  and  of  fabulous 
value.  Standing  foremost  among  these  is 
the  diamond  which  was  lost  by  Charles 
th;;  Bold  on  the  battle-field  of  Granson  ;  it 
was  found  by  a  Swiss  soldier,  and  sold  for 
it  weighs  133  carats  !  There  is  also 
an  eiiK-ruld  hen;  weighing  298i>  c:;r.it~. 
Here  is  kept  the  regalia  of  Charlemagne, 
taken  from  his  grave  at  Aix-la-Chapelle, 
and  used  for  centuries  at  the  coronation  of 
the  German  emperors ;  the  crown  and  scep- 
tre of  Rudolph  II.  ;  the  robes,  crown,  and 
sceptre  worn  by  the  Emperor  Napoleon 
when  he  was  crowned  King  of  Lombard y 
— the  jewels,  however,  are  only  imitations  ; 
but  they  look  so  much  like  real  stones  that 
only  good  judges  can  tell  ths  difference — 
the  silver  cradle  of  his  son  Nap-ileon  IT., 
king  of  Rome,  which  was  present -vl  to  him 
by  the  citizens  of  Paris.  Among  the  relig- 
ious relics  are  the  table-cloth  used  at  the 
I.a>t  Supper,  a  tooth  of  John  the  Bapti.-t,  a 
piece  of  the  true  cross,  the  arm-bone  of  St. 
Anne,  etc.  There  are  also  the  sabre  of 
Tamerlane  and  the  horoscope  of  Wallen- 
stein. 

Situated  under  the  library  is  the  imperial 
Clinch-house,  in  which  are  kept  all  the  state 
carriages.  Here  may  be  seen  the  ele_'ant 
stati<  .--ledge  of  Maria  Thert-.-a.  The  i.n- 
prrinl  Hiiliny  Schooi  i»  also  worthy  of  a 
visit. 

The  YoVuyarte*  (people's  garden)  and 
711 


VIENNA. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


VIENNA, 


Hofyarten,  fronting  the  palace,  are  hand- 
somely laid  out,  and  in  the  summer  season 
are  the  usual  resort  of  the  citizens  ;  in  the 
former  is  situated  a  temple,  built  for  the 
express  purpose  of  securing  Canova's  fine 
group  of  Theseus  killing  a  Centaur.  The 
artist  received  the  order  for  the  execution 
of  this  piece  of  sculpture  from  Napoleon, 
•who  intended  it  to  decorate  the  triumphal 
arch  at  Milan.  The  soldier  in  attendance 
expects  a  small  fee.  Corti's  Caf6,  which  is 
one  of  the  best  in  Vienna,  is  situated  in 
this  garden ;  and  here  Strauss'  celebrated 
band  or  military  bands  play  every  day  at 
a  grand  concert,  on  •which  occasion  the 
garden  is  always  crowded  by  the  beau 
monde  of  Vienna.  In  the  winter  season  the 
concerts  take  place  on  Sunday  afternoon. 

The  Imperial  Royal  Picture-Gallery,  Up- 
per Belvedere.  This  is  considered  the  sec- 
ond in  quantity  and  quality  in  all  Germany. 
It  is  open  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays ;  a  fee 
of  one  franc  will  obtain  entrance  on  other 
daj's.  The  palace  which  contains  this  gal- 
lery is  in  the  Italian  style  of  architecture 
of  the  last  century.  It  was  built  by  the 
Austrian  general  in  chief,  Eugene  of  Sa- 
voy, in  1724.  Its  architect  was  Jean  Luc 
de  Hildebrand,  who  was  the  constructor  of 
many  other  ma<_fnificent  palaces  in  Vienna. 
It  came  into  possession  of  the  government 
in  the  reign  of  Maria  Theresa,  and  was  ap- 
propriated by  Joseph  II.  to  hold  the  pic- 
tures of  the  imperial  court.  This  palace, 
with  its  rich  flower-garden,  is  one  of  the 
finest  sights  of  "the  capital,  and  the  view 
of  the  city  and  its  environs  from  the  sec- 
ond story  is  superb.  David  Teniers,  the 
younger,  was  counselor  of  the  Archduke 
William,  one  of  the  most  zealous  collectors 
of  this  gallery,  and  was  director  of  the 
German  portion  of  this  collection  at  Brus- 
sels ;  one  of  his  best  pictures  is  in  the  sixth 
room,  No.  34 :  it  represents  him  in  presence 
of  the  Archduke  with  a  large  number  of 
his  Italian  collection  of  pictures. 

In  the  grand  marble  saloon  which  forms 
(-the  entrance  to  the  imperial  gallery,  and 
which  is  beautifulh-  frescoed,  we  perceive 
two  portraits,  one  of  Joseph  II., and  the  other 
of  Maria  Theresa,  painted  by  Maron,  1775, 
and  considered  the  best  likenesses  exist- 
ing of  those  noted  personages.  On  the  first 
story,  the  first  seven  rooms  on  the  right  are 
devoted  to  the  Italian  and  Spanish  schools ; 
the  left  seven  rooms,  and  two  cabinets,  are 
712 


devoted  to  the  Dutch  and  Flemish  schools. 
On  the  second  gtory,  the  four  rooms  on  the 
right  ;ire  devoted  to  the  ancient  German, 
Flemish,  and  Dutch  masters ;  on  the  left 
of  the  same  story,  the  apartments  contain 
entirely  modern  German  pictures.  The 
general  catalogue  does  not  describe  these, 
as  they  are  daily  increasing;  they  are  de- 
scribed in  a  separate  catalogue.  On  the 
ground  floor,  four  chambers  on  the  right 
contain  pictures  of  the  Italian  school ;  the 
fifth  chamber  is  devoted  to  the  library,  and 
the  five  chambers  on  the  left  to  pictures  of 
the  Flemish  school,  and  to  copies.  In  tb..s 
pavilion  attached  are  exposed  the  scu'^ 
tures  in  marble  of  modern  artists. 

In  the  first  chamber  the  principal  pict- 
ures are,  No.  1,  the  Saviour  at  the  house 
of  Simon  the  Leper,  with  Mary  Magdalen 
at  his  feet — school  of  Paul  Veronese;  12, 
Mars  and  Venus — school  (if  Titian  ;  23,  the 
Annunciation  of  St.  Mary,  by  Paul  Vero- 
nese; 34,  Judith  with  the  head  of  Holo- 
fernes,  by  the  same ;  49,  Apollo  and  the 
Muses,  by  Tintoretto  ;  50,  a  Holy  Family, 
with  Saints  Catharine  and  Barbara,  by  Paul 
Veronese  ;  54,  Venus  and  Adonis,  of  the 
school  of  Titian. 

In  the  second  chamber  the  principal 
pictures  are,  2,  Visitation  of  Man-,  by  Pal-  . 
ma  the  elder ;  17,  Diana  and  Kalliste,  with 
the  Nymphs,  by  Titian  ;  19,  the  celebrated 
Ecce  Homo :  in  this  picture,  which  was 
formerly  in  the  collection  of  Charles  I.  of 
England,  and  sold  by  Cromwell,  the  artist, 
in  addition  to  his  own  portrait,  has  given 
those  of  several  celebrated  personages  of 
his  time — that  of  the  Emperor  Charles  V., 
as  a  chevalier  in  armor ;  the  Sultan  Soli- 
man  as  a  Turkish  chevalier ;  Pitale  is  rep- 
resented by  a  friend  of  Titian's,  Peter  Are- 
tino ;  the  date  1543.  with  Titian's  name,  i 
ie  on  the  picture  ;  36,  Danue  reposing  on  a  \ 
Couch,  by  Titian.  From  35  to  46,  with  one 
exception,  arc  all  of  Titian ;  46  is  a  fine 
portrait  of  John  Frederick,  elector  of  Sax- 
ony, by  Titian  :  06.  a  young  Girl  embraced 
by  a  Warrior  in  armor,  both  of  whom  are 
being  crowned  by  Victory  :  before  them 
stands  the  God  of  Love,  by  Paris  Bordone ; 
CO,  the  Woman  taken  in  Adultery  and 
conducted  before  Christ,  by  Titian  :  59,  an 
Allegory :  the  old  man  on  the  right  sup- 
posed to  be  the  celebrated  general  of 
Charles  V.,  the  Marquis  del  Vasto,  and  the 
young  girl  before  him  his  sweetheart. 


VIENNA. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


VIENNA. 


In  the  third  chamber  we  see  two  Roman 
battl  S08.  56  and  57.  by  Salvator 

This  mom  contains  Raphael'?  Ma- 
donna of  the  Meadow  —  the  Virgin,  Child, 
and  St.  John  in  :i  meadow.  The  edge  of 
the  Virgin's  robe  bears  the  (late  MDVI. 
It  is  painted  on  wood,  half  life  size,  and  is 
numbered  o.">.  In  the  Golden  Cabinet  is 
Henri  Fiiger's  celebrated  allegorical  pic- 
ture of  the  Peace  of  1814,  a  magnificent 
composition. 

In  the  fourth  room  are  sevsral  tine  pic- 
tuns  by  Carlo  Dolce,  an  exquisite  painter. 
Th,-,.  arc,  '.'.  St.  MarxjAJthJ-hiJlifant;  16, 
Chri-t  with  the  Cross:  ajidJ 


in  (irief  ;  2','.  the  Presentation  in  the  Tem- 
ple. Simon  holding  the  Infant  Jesus,  and 
at  his  sides  St.  Joseph.  St.  Anne,  and  St. 

*  Elixaheth,  by  Fra    Hnrtolomeo.       Rubens 

I  formed  bis  style  of  painting  from  this  pic- 

'  ture.   - 

In  the  fifth  room  are  a  large  number  of 
paintings  by  the  celebrated  master,  Guido 
Reni,  born  l">7f>.  died  1642.  Chief  among 
these  are,  1,  theBaptism^pf  .Christ  ;  15,  an 
allegorical  pietuTff  OfTne  Four  Seasons; 
24,  a  Magdalen  at  Prayer  :  27.  the  Present- 
ation in  the  Temple;  13,  Adonis  surprises 
Venus  by  the  side  of  Love,  by  Annibale 
Caracci  ;  30,  the  Jieturit  of  the  Prodigal 
Son,  and  32,  the  Prodigal  Son  receiving 
new  Garments  from  his  Father,  both  by 
Guercino  ;  3'i,  two  Females  at  the  Toilet, 
by  Elizabeth  Sirani. 

In  the  sixth  room,  2,  Venus  playing  with 
Love,  in  the  background  a  Satyr,  by  Lo- 
dovico  Caracci  :  4,  the  Incredulity  of  St. 
Thomas,  by  Preti  ;  5,  Death  of  Cleopatra, 
by  Guido  Cavnacci  :  12.  Christ  and  the 
woman  of  Samaria  at  the  FomnTatny  by 
Annibale  Caracci;  17.  Roman  Charity,  by 
Franceschini  ;  19.  Jupiter,  hidden  in  a 
cloud,  embraces  Io,  by  Correggio  :  27.  St. 
John  as  a  Child,  with  a  lamb,  by  Murillo  ; 
4'.',  4:;.  44.  45,  and  -17.  -is,  1ft.  f><'.  the  Tri- 
umphs  of  Julius  Caesar,  by  Andrea  Mon- 
tague. 

In  the  seventh  room.  14.  Picture  of  a 
family,  by  Velas<mc/—  excellent  :  !:'  and 
15  by  the  same  master;  44.  the  Archangel 
Michael  lighting  the  rebellion:.  Angels,  by 
Luca  Giordana  ;  58.  a  figure  of  a  female 
and  Love,  by  Andrea  Schiavone  ;  60,  the 
Dead  Christ,  supported  on  the  top  of  the 
tomb  by  Angels,  by  Antonello  da  Messina. 

.     The  first  room  on  the  left  of  the  hall 


contains  numerous  portraits  by  Rembrandt, 
Fy  t,  Van  !•>,  and  other  painters ;  14  and  15 
are  Fish-market- — the  figures  are  by  Jor- 
daens  ;  the  rest  of  the  pictures  by  Van  Es. 

In  the  second  room  are  several  fine  land- 
scapes by  Ruysdael ;  29  and  36,  TenierB 
the  elder,  and  Backhuysen.  The  view  of 
Amsterdam  by  the  last  is  his  best  picture 
here  ;  the  port  is  tilled  with  vessels. 

The  third  room  is  mostly  filled  with  pot 
traits  by  Vandyke  :  2  is  one  of  his  master 
pieces — St.  Mary  with  the  Infant  on  tha 
Throne  :  the  child  is  crowning  St.  Rosalia 
with  flowers,  an  angel  with  flowers  is 
standing  by  her  side,  with  the  apostles  Pe- 
ter and  Paul  on  either  side  of  the  throne ; 
4,  portrait  of  Prince  Rupert,  son  of  tha 
Elector  Frederick  V.,  is  excellent,  by  Van- 
dyke ;  9,  portrait  of  a  lady  in  a  black  robe. 
by  Kneller;  17  and  29,  by  De  Craven — 
very  fine. 

The  fourth  chamber  is  entirely  filled 
with  Rubens'  paintings.  The  principal 
pictures  are,  1,  St.  Ignatius  Loyola  cast- 
ing  out  Devils ;  2.  the  Assumption  of  the 
Holy  Virgin  ;  3j_St!  Francis  Xavier  preach- 
ing and  doing  miracles  among  the  Indians  ; 
*.  St.  Ambrose  refusing  the  Emperor  The- 
odosins  admission  into  the  church  at  Mi- 
lan, touched  up  by  Vandyke— Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds  says,  "The  better  for  even- 
touch  :"  9,  the  Alliance  of  Frederick  III., 
king  of  Hungary,  afterward  emperor  of 
Germany,  with  Charles  Ferdinand  of 
Spain ;  16.  a  scene  from  the  Decameron 
of  Boccace — Cimon  finding  Iphigenie  and 
her  two  companions  asleep ;  near  a  basin 
is  a  dog.  a  monkey,  and  a  bird,  with  vases 
of  fruits  and  flowers. 

In  the  White  Cabinet  are  some  elegant 
specimens  of  fruits  and  flowers.  The  Green 
Chamber  contains  three  very  magnificent 
pieces :  20,  the  Water  Doctor,  by  Gerard 
Dow  ;  and  103  and  104,  by  Balthasar  Don- 
ner  :  they  are  the  heads  of  an  old  man  and 
old  woman,  and  are  most  remarkable  for 
the  manner  in  which  the  hair  and  wrinkles 
are  painted. 

The  fifth  room  is  nearly  filled  with  Ru- 
ben-' work.  The  principal  are  1,  6,  7.  11, 
21,  22,  23.  Xo.  6,  the  penitent  Magdalen 
and  her  sister  Martha;  7.  the  Feast  of  Ve- 
nn—a  statue  of  the  goddess  surrounded 
by  dancing  satyr-,  nymphs,  and  little  cu- 
pids  :  the  sacriticc  is  burning  before  the 
statue  ;  11,  a  portrait  of  Helena  Fonnan, 
713 


VIENNA. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


VIENNA. 


4 


Rubens'  second  wife,  entering  a  bath,  par- 
tially covered  with  a  wrapper. 

The  sixth  room  is  mostly  filled  with 
works  of  that  celebrated  artist,  David  'IV- 
niers  the  younger  ;  also  some  of  David  Te- 
niers  the  elder.  No.  11,  a  cabinet  of  art, 
with  pictures  and  a  variety  of  objects  in 
nature  and  art,  with  visitors  examining 
the  same,  by  Jordaens ;  17,  a  Sorceress 
chasing  Phantoms,  by  David  Kyckaert; 
23,  Venus  and  Adonis,  by  Jansens;  31, 
Pan,  with  nymphs  and  satyrs,  by  Teniers 
the  elder ;  34,  the  interior  of  the  picture- 
gallery  at  Brussels,  with  portrait  of  the 
painter,  Teniers  the  younger,  in  the  fore- 
ground; 51,  the  Archduke  Leopold  Wil- 
liam, governor  general  of  the  Low  Coun- 
tries, receiving  a  deputation  from  the  cross- 
bowmen  of  Brussels — the  painter  Teniers, 
with  his  family,  in  the  foreground.  Nos. 
43,  44,  and  5-),  by  the  same  artist,  are  very 
fine. 

In  the  seventh  room  are  some  fine  por- 
traits by  masters  of  the  Spanish  school, 
with  a  number  of  pictures  by  Rubens. 
Nos.  27  and  47,  by  Jordaens,  are  very  ex- 
cellent ;  54,  an  Attack  of  Cavalry,  by  Pala- 
medes,  good. 

In  the  first  room  on  the  second  floor  a 
number  of  the  masterpieces  of  Albert  Du- 
rer  are  to  be  found,  his  best  works  being 
preserved  in  this  collection  :  they  are  Nos. 
13,  15,  18,  26,  28,  and  30.  No.  18,  the 
Holy  Trinity,  is  considered  his  best.  There 
are  also  a  number  of  portraits  by  Holbein 
the  younger.  No.  81,  an  altar-piece,  the 
Crucifixion,  by  Schongauer — a  magnificent 
composition. 

In  the  second  room  we  find  a  number 
of  pictures  by  Quintin  Matsys :  29,  32,  and 
37.  No.  38  is  a  very  fine  picture. 

In  the  third  chamber  we  find  the  Tower 
of  Babel,  by  Pierre  Breughel ;  17,  Adam 
and  Eve  driven  from  Paradise,  by  F.  Flo- 
ris ;  a  number  of  fine  portraits  by  Pierre 
Porbus  the  elder,  and  a  number  of  very 
excellent  pieces  by  Roland  Savery. 

In  the  fourth  room  stand  prominent,  1, 
David  and  Bethsaba  ;  4,  Mercury  surprises 
Venus  in  the  arms  of  Mars ;  5,  the  Re- 
union of  Bacchus  and  Ceres,  by  Van  Achen ; 
11,  Venus  reposing  on  a  Couch,  by  Joseph 
Heinz;  19,  by  the  same  artist;  -J-1.  Mar- 
riage of  St.  Catharine ;  39,  Bacchus  and 
Venus,  by  Van  Achen. 

The  four  rooms  corresponding  to  the 
714 


last  described  have  no  catalogue  of  pict- 
ures. They  are  all  of  the  modern  school 
of  Germany.  There  is  one  landscape  de- 
serving of  especial  notice.  It  is  by  Han- 
schofer.  In  the  vestibule  of  the  ground 
floor  the  visitor  will  find  a  magnificent 
marble  statue  of  the  Emperor  Charles  VI. 
in  the  antique  costume  of  the  Roman  em- 
perors. It  was  executed  by  George  Ra- 
phael Donner  in  1734.  The  nine  rooms  on 
the  ground  floor  are  devoted  to  copies,  and 
Italian,  Flemish,  and  Dutch  masters,  and  ' 
in  the  adjoining  pavilion  may  be  seen  some 
sculpture. 

The  Lower  Belvedere,  at  the  lower  end 
of  the  garden,  contains  the  celebrated  A  »*- 
bras  Collection  of  armor,  so  called  from  hav- 
ing been  brought  from  the  castle  of  Ambras, 
in  Tyrol,  where  it  was  collected  by  the 
Archduke  Ferdinand,  count  of  Tyrol,  and 
son  of  the  Emperor  Ferdinand  I.  It  is 
considered  the  most  authentic  historical 
collection  in  Europe,  the  prince  having 
himself  written  to  all  the  contemporary 
sovereigns  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
suits  of  armor  of  the  most  distinguished 
persons  attached  to  the  different  courts  in 
the  14th,  loth,  and  16th  centuries.  There 
are  three  apartments  filled  with  armor.  In 
the  first  room  are  kept  all  the  armor  be- 
longing to  members  or  connections  of  the 
imperial  family;  in  the  second,  those  of 
celebrated  German  princes  and  nobles ;  in 
the  third,  those  of  Spanish  and  Italian 
princes  and  nobles.  The  most  noteworthy 
in  the  collection  are  suits  of  Don  John  of 
Austria  and  Philip  II.  of  Spain ;  the  armor 
of  the  Emperor  Maximilian  ;  that  of  Mau- 
rice of  Saxon}-,  and  Alexander  Farnese, 
duke  of  Parma ;  the  steel  suit  of  Albert  the 
Bear,  elector  of  Brandenburg. 

There  are  numerous  other  apartments 
in  this  palace,  filled  with  portraits  of  all 
the  principal  European  sovereigns  and  dis- 
tinguished persons,  Roman  antiquities, 
weapons  of  sport,  and  musical  instruments, 
collections  of  precious  stones,  valuable  jew- 
elry, collections  of  dresses  brought  from 
the  South  Sea  by  Captain  Cook,  etc.,  etc. 
The  gallery  is  open  to  the  public  Tuesdays 
and  Fridays ;  at  other  times  a  small  fee 
will  obtain  an  admission.  A  catalogue 
may  be  obtained  at  the  door. 

There  are  quite  a  number  of  very  val- 
uable private  galleries  in  Vienna,  which 
may  he  visited  by  paying  a  small  fee  to 


VIENNA. 


ATSTKIA.] 


VlIIX.NA. 


the  custodian — say  one  franc.  One  of  the 
best  pi< -lure-galleries,  the  J:'stfrhazy  liiil- 
lery,  which  contained  several  Murillos.  lla- 
phucKl'aul  Potters.  Kubenses.  Tintorettos, 
•  nl'i  da  Vim-is,  Domenichinos,  Rem- 
lirandts,  and  other  great  masters,  was  trans- 
ferred to  Pe>th  Mime  years  ago.  Tin-  pict- 
ure-gallery in  the  summer  palace  of  Prince 
I.ii'k'inxtein  .may  be  visited  any  day  in  the 
week  from  9  to  12,  or  3  to  C.  Among  the 
most  valuable  of  this  collection  are  Ra- 
phaels, Correggios,  Titians,  Guides,  Do- 
nu'iiichinos,  and  Giorgiones,  also  several 
portraits  by  Vandyke  and  Gerard  Dow. 
Tin1  grounds  about  this  palace  arc  beauti- 
fully laid  out,  and  kept  in  excellent  order. 
The  picture-gallery  of  (.'<-nnt  I'-.intin  con- 
tains a  small  collection;  the  pictures  are, 
however,  very  choice.  The  Counts  of 
Schdnbxunn,  Harrach.  I.emberg,  and  many 
other  noblemen,  have  collections  of  choice 
paintings. 

One  of  the  most  important  places  which 
the  traveler  should  see  in  Vienna  is  the 
Impt-rinl  Arsenal,  within  the  walls  of  which 
i  tilled  barracks  capable  of  holding 
III.IKMI  men.  It  WU  ei,  eh  <1  in  1*W,  and 
is  a  large  and  massive  structure.  Within 
its  walls  it  cnntains  every  tiling  necessary 
for  the  maintenance,  of  a  l.irirc  :.rmy.  It 
has  manufactories  of  all  kinds  of  weapons, 
from  the  largest  cannon  to  the  smallest 
dirk.  It  also  has  a  hospital,  a  church,  and 
an  officers'  barrack.  It  coi-t ::i::s  200,060 
stands  of  arms  always  ready  for  use.  Its 
collection  of  arms  and  armor  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  U  .-t  in  Ivirop:-.  li  may  be  vis- 
ited any  day  by  a  ticket  (.bt  ii:ied  from  the 
Minister  of  War,  and  is  open  to  the  public 
on  Thursdays  from  9  till  5.  Around  the 
court-yard  is  hung  the  monster  chain  which 
the  Turks  threw  across  the  Danube  in  1529. 
It  is  composed  of  8000  links.  The  upper 
rooms  contain  a  great  many  interesting 
historical  relics,  among  which  are  Marl- 
borough's  arms,  the  armor  of  John  Sobies- 
ki.  Mohammed'!  green  standard,  which  So- 
bieski  captured  at  the  siege  of  Vienna,  the 
elk-skin  coat  worn  by  Gustavus  Adolphus 
at  the  battle  of  Lutzen.  an  immense  number 
of  standards  captured  in  battle,  and  other 
relics. 

In  the  Town  Ar.on/if  is  a  large  quan- 
tity of  arms,  the  same  that  were  stolen  bv 
the  mob  in  the  late  revolution.  Here  is 
kept  the  head  of  the  Grand  Vizier  Kara 


Mustapha,  commander  of  the  Turkish 
forces  at  the  siege  of  Vienna  in  1683.  He 
wa<  Mrangled  by  order  of  the  Sultan,  on 
account  of  having  failed  to  take  the  city. 
When  Belgrade  was  taken,  his  body  was 
disinterred,  the  head  cut  off  and  brought 
to  Vienna,  as  well  as  the  cord  with  which 
he  was  strangled. 

The  public  institutions  of  Vienna  are 
many  and  liberally  endowed.  Few  capi- 
tals can  compare  with  it  in  the  number  of 
its  colleges,  schools,  and  hospitals.  Its 
Unirersity,  which  was  founded  in  1237.  is 
celebrated  on  the  Continent  as  a  school  cf 
medicine,  and  is  probably  attended  by  a 
greater  number  of  students  than  any  other 
German  University  except  that  of  Berlin. 
There  are  between  80  and  90  professors, 
who  are  paid  by  the  government,  and  are 
neither  permitted  to  receive  fees  on  their 
own  account  nor  to  give  private  1* 
The  theological,  surgical,  and  veterinary 
courses  are  delivered  free,  but  the  student 
has  to  pay  about  $8  for  attendance  on  lec- 
tures on  philosophy,  and  $13  for  those  of 
medicine  and  jurisprudence.  This  amount 
is  appropriated  to  the  use  of  indigent  stu- 
ilents.  The  .\nrmit!  School  of  Vienna  was 
founded  by  Maria  Theresa,  and  is  a  copy 
for  all  others  in  the  Austrian  dominions. 
Soldiers'  children,  and  children  of  parents 
too  poor  to  pay  for  their  schooling,  are 
taught  gratuitously. 

The  General  Hospital  of  Vienna  is  an 
immense  building,  capable  of  holding  3000 
patients.  It  is  ranged  round  numerous 
quadrangles,  and  receives  annually  30,000 
patients.  Connected  with  this  hospital  is 
the  Lying-in  Hospital,  to  enter  which  not 
even  the  name  of  the  applicant  is  demand- 
ed. She  may  enter  veiled  or  masked,  and 
remain  incognito  the  whole  time  she  con- 
tinues in  the  house.  She  receives  every 
attention.  None  are  permitted  to  r-ce  her 
but  her  physician  and  nurse,  and  when  her 
confinement  is  over,  she  may  leave  tha 
hospital  without  any  person  having  tha 
slightest  knowledge  of  who  she  is. 
has  only  to  inclose  her  name  in  a  sealed 
envelope  ami  deposit  it  with  the  superin- 
tendent, that,  in  case  of  death,  her  relatives 
may  be  apprised  of  the  event.  The 
are  so  carefully  guarded  by  the  govern- 
ment that  neither  parents,  friends,  nor 
even  the  officers  of  justice  can  approach 
them,  and  it  is  contrarv  to  law  to  prove 
715 


VIENNA. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


VIENNA. 


their  presence  in  this  establishment  in  a 
court  of  justice.  According  to  their  cir- 
cumstances, they  pay  for  their  mainte- 
nance ;  the  best  accommodations  are  about 
50  cents  per  day,  30  c.  and  12  j  c.  for  inferior. 
Persons  not  able  to  pay  any  thing  are 
obliged  to  act  as  nurses  for  two  months. 
Nearly  20,000  children  are  supported  in 
this  institution  at  one  time.  The  mother 
may  either  take  or  leave  the  child  in  the 
hospita>;  if  the  latter,  she  receives  a  tick- 
et, by  presenting  which  the  child  ma}-  be 
reclaimed  at  any  time.  If  he  be  not  taken 
away  at  a  suitable  age,  he  is  brought  up  to 
some  trade,  or  made  a  soldier;  if  a  girl, 
a  nurse  in  a  hospital.  The  mortality 
among  the  children  is  very  great.  The 
object  of  this  institution  is  to  prevent  the 
many  cases  of  infanticide  which  would  oth- 
erwise occur,  but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that 
the  secrecy  it  guarantees  acts  as  a  powerful 
incentive  to  the  immorality  of  the  Viennese. 

Vienna  has  six  theatres,  three  in  the  city 
proper  and  three  in  the  suburbs ;  the  last 
are  the  minor  theatres.  The  Opera-house, 
one  of  the  most  splendid  theatres  in  Eu- 
rope, is  very  large,  and  is  devoted  to  the 
opera  and  ballet.  The  pieces  are  magnifi- 
cently put  upon  the  stage,  and  only  the  best 
performers  are  engaged.  The  house  has 
three  rows  of  boxes,  and  half  a  row  next  the 
pit.  The  Hofburg  Theater  is  attached  to 
the  palace,  and,  as  well  as  the  Opera,  is 
supported  by  the  government.  It  is  de- 
voted solely  to  the  performance  of  the  best 
classic  and  modern  dramas  and  comedies. 
The  performers,  after  ten  years'  service, 
have  a  pension  settled  upon  them  for  life 
by  the  government,  with  an  annuity  after 
death  for  their  widows. 

The  Stadttheater  gives  the  same  kind 
of  performances,  but  the  actors  are  much 
inferior  to  those  of  the  Hofburg.  The  the- 
atre at  the  Wieden — a  very  spacious  room 
— and  the  Carltheater  in  the  Leopoldstadt 
are  devoted  to  modern  operettes,  farces,  and 
sensational  dramas  of  German  or  French 
origin.  The  theatre  in  the  Josephstadt, 
opened  only  during  the  winter,  can  scarce- 
ly offer  anj'  attraction  to  a  stranger.  Dur- 
ing the  summer  time  a  seventh  theatre  is 
opened  in  the  Prater.  It  is  called  /•'>'/ r*/- 
theater  ;  appropriated  to  farces,  and  patron- 
ized by  the  middle  and  lower  classes.  It 
is  the  arena  on  which  the  national  charac- 
ter is  painted  in  the  most  lively  colors  and 
716 


broadest  manner.  The  best  seats  in  all 
these  theatres  are  the  orchestra-stalls — 
price  from  1  to  2£  dollars. 

Cafe-concerts,  music,  and  dancing  halls 
abound  in  Vienna  and  its  environs,  for  the 
entertainment  of  its  citizens  and  strangers. 


The  City  Park  has  been  lately  much  im- 
proved, and  large  additions  made  to  it.  It 
is  now  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Europe. 
At  one  end  a  splendid  building  called  the 
Cure -hall  has  been  erected;  in  it  are  a 
handsomely  decorated  concert-room,  a  cafe 
saloon,  and  a  drink-hall :  at  the  last  may  be 
obtained  the  genuine  waters  from  all  the 
celebrated  springs  of  Europe ;  the  city  au- 
thorities exercise  a  supervision  over  this  es- 
tablishment, to  see  that  all  the  waters  sold 
are  genuine.  A  portion  of  the  park  is  ex- 
clusively reserved  for  children  as  a  plav- 
ground;  here  pure  milk  only  is  sold.  A 
"  horse-railway  "  has  been  laid  around  the 
old  city  in  the  elegant  street  called  the 
"Ring,"  from  which  radiate  railways  to 
all  the  different  parts  of  the  suburbs.  The 
magnificent  structures  recently  erected  on 
the  "Ring"  put  the  finest  buildings  in 
Paris  to  shame  ;  notwithstanding  the  rapid 
improvement  one  sees  in  Paris,  Vienna  is 
rapidly  gaining  upon  it. 


One  of  the  most  important  products  of 
Vienna  are  articles  in  Russian  leather,  the 
prices  being  much  lower  here  than  else- 
where. The  principal  house  is  that  of 
August  Klein,  No.  20  Graben  (only),  with 
branch  houses  in  Paris  and  London.  His 
stock  of  bronzes,  ivory  carvings,  traveling 
articles,  etc.,  is  immense. 

Among  the  principal  manufactures  of 
Vienna  are  velvet,  silk,  and  cotton  cloths. 
Its  manufacture  of  meerschaum  pipes  is 
carried  on  to  a  very  large  extent.  The 
meerschaum  is  a  kind  of  clay,  consisting  of 


VIENNA.  [AUSTRIA.] 

hydrate  of  magnesia  and  silex.  It  is  found 
in  beds  in  various  parts  of  Europe,  but 
particularly  in  Asia  Minor,  and  when  first 
taken  out  is  soft,  and  makes  lather  like 
soap.  When  manufactured,  it  is  boiled  in 
oil  or  wax,  and  baked.  Pipes  may  be 
bought  here  much  cheaper  than  at  any 
other  place  in  Europe. 

Carriages. — There  are  three  classes  of 
carriages  for  hire  in  Vienna ;  the  first  class 
is  the  Stadtlohnwtigen :  these  are  the  same 
as  private  carriages,  and  have  the  privilege 
to  enter  into  the  court -yard  of  private 
houses  ;  all  other  kinds  must  set  you  down 
in  the  street;  they  may  be  hired  by  the 
day,  week,  or  month,  at  from  84  to  £G  per 
day,  with  50  cents  to  the  coachman.  The 
next  best  class  is  thejiacre,  which  has  no 
fixed  price,  and  for  which  a  bargain  should 
invariably  be  made ;  the  ordinary  price  is 
50  cents  per  hour. 

No  American  traveler  should  leave  Vi- 
enna without  making  an  excursion  to  Pres- 
burg.  Pesth,  etc.,  on  the  Danube  (for  de- 
scription of  tours,  see  Index);  and  all  trav- 
elers to  the  East  should  adopt  the  Danube 
route  to  Constantinople  and  the  Holy  Land, 
it  being  the  quickest  and  most  reasonable. 
The  "Danube  Steamship  Company"  have 
a  large  fleet  of  splendid  passenger  boat*, 
and  by  a  direct  accelerated  service  between 
Vienna  and  Constantinople  passengers  can 
reach  the  latter  city  in  the  short  space  of 
68  hours.  Steamers  to  Rustchuk,  rail  to 
Varna,  and  steamer  to  Constantinople. 
The  fares,  including  coffee,  luncheon,  din- 
ner, and  tea,  are  only,  first  class,  121  A.  80 
kr. ;  second  class,  85  fl.  80  kr. 


VIENNA. 


The  Enrirnns  of  Vienna  are  worthy  of 
notice,  and  much  frequented  by  pleasure- 
parties  from  the  metropolis.  The  principal 
place  is  Schvnbrunn,  the  favorite  summer 


residence  of  the  emperor.  This  palace  wa» 
begun  by  Matthias,  and  finished  by  Maria 
Theresa.  It  possesses  a  melancholy  histor- 
ical interest  on  account  of  Napoleon  II., 
duke  of  Reichstadt,  having  died  here,  and 
in  the  same  bed  that  his  imperial  father  oc- 
cupied in  1809.  This  occurred  in  1832.  An 
impression  is  prevalent  in  our  country  that 
this  prince  was  detained  in  Austria  as  a  state 
prisoner.  It  is  a  mistake.  He  was  univer- 
sally beloved  for  his  goodness  of  heart  and 
mild  disposition,  and  was  a  favorite  with  his 
grandfather,  the  late  emperor,  who  kept  a 
watchful  eye  on  him,  that  he  might  not  be- 
come the  victim  of  designing  men  who 
wished  to  carry  him  to  France ;  but  there 
was  not  the  slightest  restriction  on  his  per- 
sonal liberty.  Some  fine  pictures  and  por- 
traits adorn  the  palace,  and  the  furniture  is 
very  rich.  The  gardens  behind  the  palace 
were  made  memorable  by  the  attempted 
assassination  of  Napoleon  by  the  German 
student  Stapps,  who  was  convicted  and 
shot  a  few  hours  afterward.  The  gardens 
are  beautifully  laid  out  in  the  French  style, 
with  long  avenues  bordered  with  hedges, 
rising  to  a  great  height.  At  the  extrem* 
ity  of  one  of  the  avenues  is  the  Beautiful 
Fountain,  or  Schone-Brunnen,  from  which 
the  palace  derives  its  name.  From  the 
Glorietta  Temple,  in  the  rear  of  the  garden, 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  grounds,  and  Vi- 
enna in  the  distance,  may  be  obtained. 
There  is  a  fine  Botanical  Garden  and  Me- 
nagerie attached  to  the  grounds. 

Near  Hitttedlorf  is  the  emperor's  deer- 
park,  at  which  place  may  be  seen  3000  wild 
boars,  rather  an  unusual  sight. 

A  short  distance  from  Schijnbrunn  is 
the  beautiful  village  of  Heitzing.  In  the 
church-yard  there  is  an  exquisite  monu- 
ment, by  Canova,  erected  to  the  memory 
of  the  Baroness  Pillersdorf.  The  Casino 
of  Dommeyer  contains  a  cafe,  restaurant, 
billiard-room,  and  dancing-saloon.  It  is 
beautifully  fitted  up,  and  the  music  is  su- 
perb. Parties  from  Vienna  generally  visit 
it  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  suppers, 
which  are  finely  got  up. 

The  "Neue  Welt,"  fine  park  and  res- 
taurant ;  theatre  and  concerts  every  day 
during  summer  ;  more  frequented  than  any 
similar  establishment  in  Vienna.  At  the 
end  of  this  little  town  begins  a  very  ro- 
mantic valley  called  the  "Bruhl,"  where 
woods  and  green  meadows,  ruins  of  old 
717 


VIENNA. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


VIENNA. 


castles  and  modern  country-houses,  togeth-  ! 
er  with  a  magnificent  aqueduct,  present  to 
the  eyes  of  rhe  tourist  a  most  varying  .mil 
delightful  scenery. 

Laxenburg,  to  which  you  can  proceed  by 
railroad,  forms  one  of  the  most  agreeable 
excursions  from  Vienna.  It  was  the  fa-  , 
vorite  summer  residence  of  Maria  Theresa  j 
and  of  the  late  emperor.  There  is  a  beau-  j 
tiful  avenue  of  trees  which  connects  it  with 
the  palace  of  Schonbrunn.  The  palace  in  \ 
itself  is  not  worth  the  visit,  but  the  gardens 
and  park  are  exquisitely  laid  out.  The 
winding  avenues  and  walks  are  so  densely 
hemmed  in  with  shrubbery  that  you  are 
obliged  to  take  a  guide  at  the  entrance  to 
prevent  your  missing  your  way.  The 
"lion"  of  Saxenhurg,  however,  is  the  Fran- 
zenburg,  or  Ritterschloss,  an  antique  castle 
situated  in  the  centre  of  a  small  lake.  It 
will  occupy  several  hours  to  examine  all  its 
antique  furniture,  its  carvings  in  wood  and 
stone.  Its  collection  of  armor  is  rich  and 
varied  ;  in  fact,  it  is  a  perfect  museum  of 
antiquities  and  curiosities.  Among  the 
collection  of  armor  are  numerous  suits 
made  for  females  and  children.  In  one  of 
the  rooms  there  is  a  procession  of  knignts 
proceeding  to  a  tournament,  and  another  is 
surrounded  with  statues  of  celebrated  Ger- 
man emperors.  In  another  room  there  is 
a  fac-simile  of  a  chamber  of  torture,  and  in 
the  miniature  dungeon  a  wooden  prisoner. 
The  whole  castle  is  a  very  correct  imita- 
tion of  a  feudal  fortress  of  the  Middle  Ages, 
filled  with  authentic  relics.  Near  to  this 
castle  is  the  Turnierplatz,  where  tourna- 
ments formerly  took  place  by  members 
of  the  imperial  family  and  young  nobles. 
There  is  also  here  a  Temple  of  Diana,  a 
Prater,  and  artificial  waterfall. 

A  very  interesting  excursion  may  be 
made,  to  Mddling  to  see  the  castle  and 
park  of  Prince  Lichtenstein  and  the  Knight 
Templars'  Church  of  Holy  Otmar.  At 
your  left  on  the  way  to  Mi-idling  you 
pass  the  Spinnerin  am  Kreuz  (the  spin-  [ 
ner  at  the  cross),  a  Gothic  cross  erected 
in  151(1  by  Crispinus,  adorned  with  a  stat- 
ue of  Crispinus  and  Crispiamis.  It  re- 
ceived its  name  from  a  tradition,  which  is 
generally  believed  among  the  natives,  that 
a  maiden  during  the  Holy  Wars  made  a 
vow,  when  her  lover  set  out  for  Palestine, 
to  sit  here  and  spin  until  his  return. 
We  could  neither  find  out  whether  she 
718 


kept  her  vow,  or  whether  he  ever  came 
back. 

An  excursion  to  the  warm  springs  of 
Baden  (one  hour  by  railway),  if  in  the  sea- 
son, to  see  the  manner  of  bathing  in  com- 
pany, will  to  some  be  found  very  amusing. 
Some  of  the  baths  will  accommodate  200 
persons  at  once.  Male  and  female,  attired 
in  long 4re88ing-gown»,  enter  the  bath  pro- 
miscuously,  and  stand  or  move  around  up 
to  their  necks  in  .steaming  water.  The 
ladies  enter  from  one  side  and  the  gentle- 
men from  the  other,  but  in  the  bath  there 
is  no  separation.  Every  body  is  talking, 
ever^  body  joking,  aud  every  body  try- 
ing to  make  himself  or  herself  agreeable. 
Many  who  are  in  perfect  health  take  great 
delight  in  mixing  in  this  motley  crowd. 
The  balconies  around  the  bath  are  filled 
with  the  friends  of  the  bathers,  but  they 
are  often  compelled  to  retire,  as  it  is  al- 
most impossible  to  withstand  the  beat  of 
the  steam. 

The  Archduke  Albert  and  many  of  the 
nobility  have  palaces  here,  and  often  dur- 
ing the  season,  the  town,  which  contains 
5000  inhabitants,  has  a  population  of  15,000. 
The  walks  about  the  town  are  charming, 
and  the  valley  of  Helenenthal,  where  ev- 
ery body  repairs  after  dinner,  is  really 
charming.  The  valley  is  surrounded  by 
heights  on  all  sides,  covered  in  many  places 
with  ruined  castles,  to  reacli  which  are 
•paths  running  up  the  woody  sides  of  the 
valley  in  all  directions.  On  the  left  is  the 
beautiful  palace  of  the  Archduke  Albert, 
surrounded  by  groves  and  flower-gardens; 
on  the  heights  are  the  ruined  castles  of 
Rauhenstein,  Rauhcneck,  and  Scharfeneck. 
The  owners  of  Rauhenstein  were  robber- 
knights,  and,  during  the  reign  of  Maxi- 
milian I.  they  stopped  the  empress  on  the 
high-road  and  robbed  her.  This  act  was 
the  cause  of  their  downfall. 

Another  excursion  may  be  made  to  Le~ 
opoldsbcrff,  Kahlenberg,  and  KfosterneubuTff. 
The  building  on  the  summit  of  Kahlenberg 
was  formerly  a  convent,  but  was  suppress- 
ed by  Joseph  II.  It  afterward  came  into 
>ion  of  the  Prince  de  Ligne.  who 
died  here.  It  is  now  the  property  of  a 
company,  which  has  built  there  a  fine  ho- 
tel and  several  country-houses. 

The  view  from  the  Kahlenberg  and  Le- 
opoldsberg  is  a  most  magnificent  one,  as 
you  see  before  you  the  city  of  Vienna  in 


VlKNXA. 


all  its  grandeur,  the  superb  river  the  Dan- 
ube and  the  mountains  of  the  \\  ieiier- 
wald,  covered  with  well- cultivated  vine- 
yards  <>r  superb  forests.  Since  1873  a 
railway  brings  you  to  the  summit  of 
mountains.  It  is  constructed  in 
the  same  way  as  that  on  the  Kigi  in 


[AUSTRIA.]  BRUNT*. 

ROUTE  No.  185. 

Vienna  to  Dresden,  via  Brunn,  Pardu- 
bitz.  and  Prague.  Time,  13  h.  13  m. ;  fare, 
1st  class,  27  fl.  G5  kr. ;  2d  class,  20  fl.  55  kr. 
Vienna  to  Prague,  by  this,  the  Austrian 
State  Railway  (quickest),  or  by  the  Kaiser 
Franz  Joseph's  Railway,  or  the  Northwest 


Switzerland.  It  is  in  connection  with  '  Railway,  see  Prague,  p.  723. 
the  small  steamers  leaving  Vienna  from  Half  an  hour  from  Vienna  the  station 
the  pier  near  the  Metropolitan  Hotel,  of  Wagram  is  passed.  It  was  at  this  point 
it-  is  a  very  pleasant,  attractive,  and  easy  that  the  celebrated  battle,  of  Wagram  was 
excursion,  which  nobody  should  omit  to  \  fought  between  the  French  and  Austrians 
make.  !  on  July  5th  and  6th.  1809,  under  the  com- 

Klosterneuburg  contains  one  of  the  larg-    mand    of   Napoleon    and    the    Archduke 
iid  oldest  monasteries  in  Austria;  it    Charles.     The   French  were  the  victors. 


is  also  one  of  the  wealthiest. 
yards  of  Klosterneuburg  belon 
IT  t<>  this  monastery.     It  has  a  library  of 
•    volumes.        The    monastery    was 
founded  during  the  early  part  of  the  12th 


The  vine-    Napoleon  rewarded  General  Berthier  with 
exclusive-    the  title  of  Prince  of  Wagram. 

At  the  station  of  Gansendorf  the  line  to 
Presburg  diverges  to  the  right. 

At  Xuitz  the  Oriental  tower  in  the  park 


century  by  St.  Agnes,  wife  of  St.  Leopold,  of  the  Prince  Lichtenstein  may  be  seen 
.Margrave  of  Babenberg,  who  was  canon-  in  passing.  At  Xilcolsburg  the  armistice 
ixed  by  Pope  Innocent  VIII.  in  the  loth  between  the  Austrians  and  Prussians  was 
century.  Of  course  there  is  a  legend  at-  concluded  July  26,  1866.  Above  the  town 
taehed  to  its  foundation  —  there  always  is.  are  situated  the  Palace  Mountains,  crowned 
It  is  said  that  Agnes,  having  determined  by  a  ruined  castle. 

to  erect  a  convent,  in  looking  for  a  site,  Briinn,  the  capital  of  Moravia,  is  situated 
had  her  veil  blown  away.  It  was  not  found  1  near  the  junction  of  the  Schwarza  and 
until  nine  years  afterward,  at  which  time  Zwittawa,  two  small  affluents  of  the  River 
her  husband,  while  out  hunting,  discovered  Morava,  which  carries  its  waters  to  the 
it  on  a  tree  perfectly  preserved,  which  Danube.  It  contains  a  population  of 
clearly  proved  t/tat  was  the  site  for  the  pro-  50.000  inhabitants.  Its  principal  hotels 
jected  convent.  The  veil  and  part  of  the  are  Drt  i  Fiirsten  and  Kaiser  von  Oester- 
tree  are  both  shown  to  convince  the  un-  >  reich.  Terms  moderate  ;  dinner  a  la  carte. 
believer!  (We  were  once  told  by  a  trav-  j  The  city  is  distinguished  as  a  great  seat 
eler  that  he  had  caught  a  brook  trout  j  of  the  woolen  manufacture,  as  well  as  for 
,*  f<(  f'ti;/.'  and  on  our  venturing  to  sug-  its  silk,  soap,  glass,  tobacco,  and  cotton 


few  inches  off  as  a  compromise,  he 

ottered  to  .--h'».-  //.-.-  the  brook  where  he  ca'/ght 


works.     It  contains  nothing  to  detain  the 
traveler,  unless  he  wishes  to  visit  the  vil- 


it,  as   conclusive   proof!)      The    Emperor    lage  of  Austerlitz,  the  scene  of  one  of  Na- 
Maximilian  II.  placed  the  ducal  coronet  on  '  poleon's  greatest  victories,  which  lies  thir- 


the  shrine  of  St.  Leopold,  praying  the  saint 
to  take  charge  of  the  same.  Joseph  II., 
whose  name  should  have  been  Thomas, 
'.thought  the  keeper  of  the  crown  jewels  at 
•  Vienna  the  better  custodian  of  the  two, 
and  removed  it  accordingly.  Leopold  II. 
thought  he  would  give  his  namesake  an- 
other trial,  and  sent  it  back  to  the  saint, 
where  it  still  remains. 


teen  miles  to  the  east.  On  a  hill  to  the 
west  rises  the  Spielberg,  the  citadel  of 
Briinn,  formerly  a  state  prison.  This  was 
the  place  of  captivity  for  eight  years  of  the 
Italian  poet,  Count  Silvio  Pellico.  The 
Museum — open  Wednesday.  Saturday,  and 
Sunday — contains  a  collection  of  Antiqui- 
ties and  Natural  History. 

The  Cathedral  presents   a  fine   aspect, 
situated  on  an  eminence. 

The  church  of  St.  James  is  a  Gothic  ed- 
ifice founded  in  1314,  noted  for  its  elegant 
proportions.  In  the  choir  there  is  a  mon- 
ument to  Marshal  Souches,  the  defender 
of  the  town  against  the  Swedes. 
719 


AUSTERLITZ. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


PRAGUE. 


To  the  west  rises  the  Franzensberg,  on  j  Vienna,  is  the  most  important  place  in  the 
•which  an  obelisk  has  been  erected  t.>  the    German  provinces  of  Austria,  and  ranks 


Emperor  Francis  I.  It  is  surrounded  by 
fine  promenades. 

[On  the  branch  line  from  Briinn  to  Pre- 
rau  thirty  minutes  from  Briinn,  is  the  sta- 
tion Atisterlitz,  close  to  which  was  fought, 
December  2, 1805,  the  celebrated  battle  of 
the  Drei  Kaiser- Schlacht,  or  the  "  Three 
Emperors,"  generally  known  as  the  battle 
of  A  uster/itz,  where  the  Emperor  Napoleon 
gained  the  greatest  of  all  his  victories. 
The  Russian  forces  were  100,000  men,  com- 
manded by  the  Emperor  Alexander  I.  in 
person.  The  Grand -Duke  Constantine 
was  also  in  command.  The  Austrians 
numbered  200,000,  commanded  by  the  Em- 
peror Francis  I.  in  person.  The  French 
forces  were  considerably  outnumbered,  but 
they  were  commanded  by  Napoleon  in  per- 
son, with  Bernadotte,  Oudinot,  and  Rapp, 
and  other  of  his  most  famous  generals. 

During  the  time  a  part  of  the  Russian 
forces  were  crossing  a  small  frozen  lake, 
Napoleon  brought  his  cannon  to  bear  on 
the  ice,  when  the  entire  force  w;is  sent., to 
destruction.  The  French  took  20,000  pris- 
oners, 50  pieces  of  cannon,  and  large  quan- 
tities of  other  spoils.] 

Passing  the  station  offiaifz,  the  summer 


next  to  the  capital  in  point  of  size  and 
population. 

Hotels:  The  d'Angleterre,  one  of  the 
oldest  established  houses  in  Austria  ;  Hotel 
de  Saxe,  magnificently  furnished,  with  very 
moderate  prices  ;  Hotel  Victoria,  a  favorite 
resort  of  Americans  (English  landlady); 
Hotel  Goldenen  Engel,  good,  first-class  house, 
conducted  by  the  proprietor,  Mr.  F.  Stickel. 

Prague  stands  on  both  sides  of  the  Mol- 
dau  (the  chief  tributary  of  the  Elbe),  in  the 
centre  of  the  province,  and  in  the  midst  cf 
a  fertile  and  beautiful  region.  It  is  the 
chief  seat  of  the  manufacturing  industry 
of  Bohemia. 

The  principal  quarters  of  the  city  are  the 
Neustadt,  the  Kloinseite,  and  the  Hrad- 
schin.  The  Altstadt,  or  old  town,  is  gloomy, 
and  the  Judenstadt,  or  Jews'  town,  filthy. 
The  Moldau,  which  flows  north  through 
the  city,  is  crossed  near  the  middle  by  the 
celebrated  stone  bridge,  begun  in  the  14th 
and  finished  in  the  16th  century :  it  is  1850 
feet  in  length,  and  is  ornamented  on  each 
side  with  28  statues  of  saints,  and  has  a 
lofty  tower  at  each  end.  Near  the  centre 
of  the  bridge  stands  the  bronze  statue  of 
St.  John  Nepomuk,  who  was  drowned  in  ~ 


residence  of  Prince  Salm,  and  the  exten-   this  river  by  King  Wencislaus,  because  he 
sive  ruins  of  Boskowitz,  the  town  of  Letto- 
witz  is  reached,  noted  for  its  ancient  abbey 


and  castle  of  Count  Ralnokey. 

Pardubitz,  a  small,  pleasant  town,  sur- 
mounted by  the  extensive  ruins  of  a  mag- 
nificent castle. 

[A  branch  line  leads  to  Zittaii  in  7 
hours.  Near  the  station  Kdrdgsf/ratz.  the 
great  battle  between  the  Prussians  and 
Austrians  was  fought,  July  3.  1866,  when 
the  latter  were  defeated.] 

Podiebrad  station,  near  which  the  great 
battle  that  terminated  the  Hussite  war 
took  place  in  1434,  and  also  where  on  June 
18, 1757,  the  Austrians  under  Marshal  Daun 
gained  a  great  victory  over  Frederick  the 
Great,  and  drove  the  Prussians  out  of  Bo- 
hemia. 

Prague. — This  city,  the  capital  of  Bohe- 
mia, stands  in  a  basin  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  rocks  and  eminences,  upon  the 


would  not  betray  the  secrets  which  the 
queen  had  intrusted  to  him  in  the  holy  rite 
of  confession.  The  place  where  his  body 
was  found  is  still  marked  bv  a  cross  and 
live  stars.  There  is  a  legend  in  existence 
here  that  flames  were  seen  issuing  from 
the  'water  at  this  place  until  his  body  was 
searched  for  and  found.  There  is  a  gor- 
geous silver  shrine,  weighing  nearly  4000 
pounds,  placed  in  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Viti:.s. 
In  this  shrine,  incased  in  a  silver  and  crys- 
tal coffin,  is  the  body  of  St.  John  ;  around 
the  shrine  are  silver  lamps  continually 
burning.  From  the  circumstance  of  his 
death,  St.  John  has  become  the  patron  saint 
of  all  bridges  in  Catholic  countries.  He  - 
was  not  canonized  until  the  early  part  of 
the  18th  century. 

The  peculiar  architecture  of  Prague,  and 
its  numerous  domes,  spires,  and  turrets, 
give  it  quite  an  Oriental  appearance. 


slopes  of  which  the  buildings  rise  tier  aft-  j  The  first  object  that  strikes  the  eye  on  en- 
er  tier  as  they  recede  from  the  water's  tering  Prague  is  the  Hradschin,  or  palace 
brink.  It  contains  189,994  inhabitants,  of  the  hill,  the  former  residence  of  Bohe- 
10,000  of  whom  are  Jews,  and,  next  to  ;  mia's  kings  :  it  is  an  immense  pile  of  build- 
720 


P  R 


C    £nAitcttdfl  Kesititnx, 


i  Zai>koroitx.tcher  thl 


9  Cbllfgium  (Tementimim 


13  (IconCaUaxscherlbl. 
franxens  -Monument 

"N'eustadt 


17 

18  J?  '  Smniausiiirt/te 

10    Salfn  '.\cJlfn   (^flr-tfft 
;20  Bofunischf 

Judenstadt 

21  J7*-  Synagogue 

22  ^ller  tsnulitisclur- 


U  E. 


•Book. 


PRAGUE. 


[.  \rsTRI  A.] 


PRAGUE. 


Ull 

he 

TC« 


ings,  more  remarkable  for  extent  than 
beauty.  Immediately  behind  the  Hrad- 
schia  are  the  heights  of  L:iiirfi:zil;i-r^. 
whore  in  ancient  times  the  native  pagans 
celebrated  the  rites  of  iire-wor.-hip.  On  a 
im mediately  below  the  palace  are 
two  obelisks,  which  mark  the  spot  where 
the  imperial  commissioners  and  their  sec- 
retary, sent  thither  with  the  most  intoler- 
ant edicts  against  the  Bohemian  Protest- 
ants, were  indignantly  thrown  out  of  the 
windows  of  the  palace  by  the  deputies  of 
the  kingdom :  this  was  in  1618,  and  was 
the  commencement  of  the  Thirty- years' 
War.  which  secured  the  liberties  of  Ger- 
many, and  ended  with  the  Peace  of  West- 
phalia in  1'il*.  Within  the  precincts  of 
the  Hradschin  stands  the  Cathedral  tf  St, 
}'i/n,<:  open  from  5  to  12  and  '2  to  <>;  it  \vas 
begun  in  1340,  and  finished  in  1-W..  It  Is 
a  nn>-t  intere-ting  edifice,  and  a  complete 
museum  of  curiosities.  Its  choir  was  built 
by  Charles  IV..  and  the  chapels  that  sur- 
round it  are  much  admired.  In  the  Ca- 
thedral is  the  monument  erected  by  I.u- 
dol|,h  II.  as  a  tomb  for  himself  and  other 
Bohemian  kings.  It  is  of  white  marble, 
and  most  beautifully  executed.  Over 
the  high-altar  is  an  excellent  picture  of 
St.  Luke  painting  the  Virgin.  It  is  in 
front  of  this  altar  the  Emperors  of  Austria 
are  crowned  Kings  of  Bohemia.  At  the 
back  is  the  tomb  of  Ottocar,  who  was  kill- 
ed in  battle  by  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg,  the 
founder  of  the  present  house  of  Hapsburg. 
In  addition  to  the  chapel  of  St.  John  Xepo- 
miik,  already  described,  is  that  of  St.  Wen- 
zel,  patron  saint  of  Bohemia,  who  was  mur- 
dered by  his  brother  in  the  10th  century: 
his  statue,  armor,  and  sword  are  here.  In 
theSchatzkammer  of  the  Cathedral  are  kept 
some  very  curious  relics,  among  which  are 
some  of  the  bones  of  Abraham,  Isaac,  and 
Jacob,  a  piece  of  the  true  cross,  two  thorns 
from  the  dying  Saviour's  crown,  one  of  the 
palm-branches  over  which  he  rode.the  pock- 
et-handkerchief of  the  Virgin  Mary,  the 
bridal  robe  of  Maria  Theresa,  worked  by 
rself  into  a  mass-robe,  with  numerous 
lies  used  at  the  coronation  of  the  kings. 
Near  the  Hradschin  is  the  palace  of  the 
counts  of  Czerin,  which  was  one  of  the 
linest  iii  Bohemia  ;  it  is  now  turned  into  a 
barrack.  There  are  also  many  other  fine 
palaces  in  this  neighborhood,  among  which 
that  of  the  Ci  rand-Duke  of  Tuscany. 


The  Carolinum  is  remarkable  as  the  first          *• 

great   public   school    established   in   Ger--, / 

many.  This  university  was  founded  by 
Charles  IV.  in  1350,  and  contained  at  one  / 
time  40,000  students,  who  were  composed 
of  Bohemians,  Austrian.",  Poles,  Saxons, 
and  Bavarians.  A  measure  proposed  by 
John  Huss,the  celebrated  reformer,  abridg- 
ing the  privileges  of  foreigners,  caused  the 
secession  of  25,000,  who  founded  the  Uni- 
versities of  Heidelberg,  Leipzig,  and  Cra- 
cow. The  Carolinum  is  now  exclusively 
devoted  to  instruction  in  medicine,  law, 
and  the  sciences,  while  theology  is  con- 
ducted in  the  Clementinum. 

Among  the  numerous  churches  is  that 
of  the  Tttfin-Kirche,  noted  for  containing 
the  grave  of  Tycho  Brahe,  the  great  a.-- 
tronomer,  as  well  as  the  place  where  the 
heads  and  hands  of  the  Protestant  leaders 
were  buried  after  being  taken  down  from 
the  gate  tower  of  the  bridge  after  the  bat- 
tle of  White  Hill,  where  they  were  stuck 
up  to  appease  the  anger  of  Ferdinand. 

The  Rathhaus,  and  the  square  in  which  it 
stands,  are  historically  interesting  from  the 
many  remarkable  events  that  have  here 
occurred.  Here,  during  the  Hussite  troub- 
les, the  mob  entered  into  the  council- 
chamber,  and  threw  the  German  council- 
!  ors  out  of  the  windows  on  the  pikes  and 
spears  of  the  rabble  below.  Sixty  years 
later  the  mob  again  entered  the  Rathhaus, 
1  and  threw  the  magistrates  out  in  the  same 
style.  John  of  Luxembourg,  king  of  Po- 
land and  Bohemia,  who  was  killed  at  the 
battlo  of  Crccv.  was  severely  wounded  in 
a  tournament  in  this  square.  This  war- 
I  rior,  commonly  known  as  the.  "  Blind  King 
of  Bohemia,"  was  son  of  the  F.mp.Tor  Hen- 
ry VH.  After  the  defeat  of  the  Lithua- 
nians, when  he  lost  an  eye,  and  was  on  his 
way  to  Montpellier  to  consult  a  physician, 
he  fell  into  the  hands  of  a  Jew,  who  caused 
him  to  lose  the  other.  This  diminished 
not  in  the  least  his  taste  fur  war.  At  the 
battle  of  Crccy,  whither  lie  went  to  render 
as.-i>t;mce  to  his  ally,  Philip  of  Valois,  his 
horse  was  led  on  either  side  by  a  brave 
warrior.  lie  here  lost  his  life,  and  the 
Black  Prince  gained  his  spurs  and  the 
feathers  and  motto  which  the  princes  of 
Wales  bear  to  this  day.  which  were  original- 
ly possessed  by  the  "Blind  King  of  Bohe- 
mia." 

On   the   Kolowratstrassc,   in  the    same 
721 


PRAGUE. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


PRAGIK. 


quarter  with  the  Rathhaus  Alstadt,  is  sit- 
uated the  Bohemian  or  National  M 
containing  some  fine  antiquities  found  near 
Prague.  There  is  also  a  .Museum  of  Xat- 
ur.il  History  and  library.  Op.-n  to  tlie 
public  Tuesdays  and  Fridays,  from  8  to 
12;  at  other  times  a  fee  of  35  kr.  Promi- 
nent in  the  latter  is  the  autograph  chal- 
lenge of  John  Huss,  which  was  aftixed 
to  the  gate  of  the  University  of  Prague, 
challenging  all  comers  to  dispute  with 
him  on  the  articles  of  his  belief.  This 
celebrated  Reformer  was  born  at  Huss,  in 
Bohemia,  in  1376 ;  he  was  educated  at 
Prague,  and  became  rector  of  the  Univer- 
sity, and  confessor  of  Sophia  of  Bavaria. 
queen  of  Bohemia.  Having  become  strong- 
ly imbued  with  the  doctrinas  of  the  English 
reformer  Wycliffe,  he  set  out  to  reform  the 
Church.  He  declared  boldly  that  the  wor- 
ship of  the  Virgin  and  saints  was  idolatry. 
The  Pope  condemned  him  for  a  heretic ; 
but,  protected  by  Wencislaus,  king  of  Bo- 
hemia, he  pursued  his  plan  of  reform  with 
energy  and  boldness.  He  was  summoned 
to  Constance  to  render  an  account  of  his 
doctrine.  Under  the  assurance  of  safe-con- 
duct from  the  Emperor  Sigisnmnd,  he  went. 
Hardly  had  he  arrived  before  he  was 
thrown  into  prison,  tried,  and  condemned 
to  be  burned.  He  suffered  martyrdom 
with  heroic  courage.  A  portion  of  his 
ashes  were  thrown  into  the  Rhine  ;  the 
residue  were  retained  by  his  di-ciples.  who 
distributed  them  to  their  masters,  crying 
for  vengeance.  Thus  commenced  the  fa- 
mous Hussite  war. 

The  Hussites  put  at  their  head  John 
Trocznow  (nicknamed  Ziska,  from  having 
lost  an  eye  in  battle),  to  avenge  the  death 
of  Huss  on  the  Catholics.  He  was  de- 
scended from  a  noble  family  of  Bohemia  ; 
was  very  successful ;  took  the  city  of 
Prague,  and  refused  to  recognize  Sigis- 
mund  as  King  of  Bohemia.  He  attacked 
and  vanquish  >d  the  emperor  at  the  siege 
of  Raby,  where  he  lost  his  second  eye. 
After  several  victories  over  Sigismund,  Hfe 
forced  him  to  accord  to  himself  the  title 
of  Viceroy  of  Bohemia  ;  but,  taking  the 
plague,  he  died  suddenly  in  1-J24.  It  is 
said  he  gave  orders  to  have  a  drum  made 
out  of  his  skin  to  frighten  his  enemies 
again  after  his  death. 

This  was  the  first  of  the  reformed  relig- 
ion, when,  after  flickering  for  nearly  a  cen- 
722 


tury,  the  flame  suddenly  burst  forth  in  tho 
Reformation  of  Luther.  The  Hussites  car- 
ried their  blind  zeal  to  too  great  an  ex- 
tent :  they  destroyed  nearly  all  the  sculp- 
ture and  ornaments  of  the  different  church- 
es, defacing  the  frescoes,  and  breaking  the 
beautiful  painted  glass;  this  accounts  for 
the  uninteresting  state  of  the  ancient 
churches  of  Prague. 

Among  the  different  places  worthy  of 
a  visit  in  the  Neustadt  are  the  Military 
Hospital.  House  of  Correction,  Mad-house, 
( 'ustom-house.  General  Hospital,  and  Mon- 
ument to  the  Swedes. 

On  the  same  side  of  the  river,  above 
the  suspension  bridge,  is  the  1  \~i.*f<  mrl,  or 
Acropolis.  These  precipices  are  famous 
in  history.  It  is  said  that  Queen  Libussa, 
the  founder  of  Prague,  who  was  a  notori- 
ous wanton,  used  to  pitch  her  lovers  from 
this  giddy  height  into  the  river  as  soon  as 
she  got  tired  of  them,  and  wished  a  new 
one.  A  country  clown,  who  was  moro 
successful  than  the  rest  in  retaining  her 
passion,  was  the  ancestor  of  the  long  line 
of  Bohemian  kings. 

Xear  the  Czernin  Palace,  in  the  HracT- 
schin,  is  situated  the  Loretto  Chnpfl,  which 
is  an  exact  copy  of  the  wandering  house 
of  Loretto  in  Italy  (neither  of  which  are 
any  thing  like  the  house  at  Nazareth"). 
This  is  considered  the  holiest  place  in 
Prague,  and  pilgrimages  are  made  to  it 
from  all  parts  of  Germany.  Here  you  will 
be  shown  the  leg-bone  of  Mary  Magdalen 
and  th'-  skull  of  one  of  the  wise  virgins! 
The  building  was  erected  by  the  Princess 
of  Lobkowitz,  and  contains  a  large  quan- 
tity of  Church  plate.  A  fee  of  40  kreutzers 
is  expected. 

In  the  palace  of  Count  Sternberg  there 
is  quite  a  large  picture-gallery,  but  the 
paintings  are  very  indifferent  on  the  whole. 

One  of  the  most  important  palaces  in 
Prague  is  that  of  }\'at!<  »*/>  in,  built  by  the 
hero  and  generalissimo  of  the  Thirty-Years' 
War,  Albert,  duke  of  Friedland  and  Meck- 
lenburg, prince  of  S.igau  and  Glogau.  In 
addition  to  the-.>  e.-t.stes  he  owned  lord- 
ships in  Bohemia  and  Moravia,  and,  attha 
time  he  was  dismissed  from  the  imperial 
service,  lived  in  state  equal  to  the  Emper-  r. 
It  was  found  necessary,  when  this  ] 
was  built,  to  pull  down  one  hundred  1: 
to  make  room  for  it.  The  most  skillful 
workmen  on  the  Continent  were  employe*} 


[AUSTRIA.] 


Kiixu;- 


in  beautifying  and  adorning  it.     I!i<  -t  i- 
blcs,  iu  which  he  kept  three  hundred  car- 
vi.-re   prnfu-cjy  ornamented   with 
marble.      He   had   sixtv    p:ige>   of   noble 
!  loodto  wait  on  him,  uniliu  his  ante-cham- 
ber were  always  to  l>o  found  an  abundance 
of  tiamns  and  kni.'hts  in  waiting.      When 
lie   traveled  from    home   a   hundred   car- 
-  and  wagons  were  necessary  for  his 
->•.  witli  lifty  of  the  finest 
in  liis  train.      Although 
hi*  income  was  over  live  million  dollars 
yearly,  he  was  often  troubled  for  the  want 
of  a  few  hundred  dollars  during  the  war. 
It  is  said  you  can  travel  from  Prague  to 
Vienna,  a  distance  of  nearly  three  hundred 
miles,  without  quitting  his  estate. 

The  principal  places  of  resort  for  prom- 
enade and  amusement  are  th"  bastions 
which  surround  the  Kleinseite  and  the  two 
i.-lands  in  the  river.  The  - 
is  frequented  by  the  higher  classes.  It 
contains  a  hall-room,  bathing  e-tablish- 
ment,  and  numerous  cafes.  The  Gross 
'•;!  Mand  i^  the  favorite  place  of  re- 
sort for  the  lower  i  I 

,t  1  ">  miles  east  of  the  city  is  the 
of  the  battle  of  Prague.      A  monu- 
ment i-  there  to  the  memory  of  Schwerin, 
!>•  -ileriek  the  Great's  favorite  general,  who 
was  killed  in  this  battle. 

1'r.igue  has  manufactures  of  cotton,  lin- 
en, silk,  and  woolen  stuffs,  hats,  earthen- 
ware, and  sugar  refineries,  and  is  the  cen- 
tre of  an  extensive  and  rapidly  inerea.-iug 
transit  trade.  It  is  al>o  noted  for  its  beau- 
tiful Bohemian  glass-ware,  which  is  manu- 
factured here  very  extensively,  f  • 

The  old  Jewish  burial-ground  is  rather 
a  singular  place,  and  well  worth  a  visit. 
It  is  no  longer  used,  not  being  capable 
of  holding  more.  There  are  some  tombs 
which  date  hack  1200  years  ! 

Prague  was  taken  by  the  Prussians  un- 
der Frederick  the  Great  in  1741,  but  they 
were  soon  compelled  to  evacuate  the  city, 
since  which  lime  it  has  been  held  by  the 
A.nstriaqB. 

Drosky  from  the  station,  30  kr. ;  two- 
horse  fiacres,  50  kr.  Half  a  day  in  the 
rown.  -1  tl.;  whole  day.  (',  ti. ;  1  ll.'f 

Prague  to  Paris,  rii  Nuremberg-Pagny. 
Time, 33  h.10  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  tin  fl.40k"r. 

Vienna  to  Prague,  iiu  Brunn  and  Kolin 
(Austrian  State  !{';/.  Route  185,  quickest), 
in  7  h.  50  m. ;  fare.  20  fl.  28  kr. ;— to  Prayue, 


via  Gmttndand  Tabor,  by  Route  188  (A'wVr 
I  riin:  Joseph's  R'y)  ;  time,  10  b.  7  m. ;  fare, 
17  tl.  7~>  kr.; — to  Prague,  via  /naim,  Deutsch- 
brod,  and  Lissa  (Northwest  R'y) ;  time,  9J 
h. ;  fare,  20  fl.  42  kr.  (sec  Rout 

The  line  to  Dresden  now  crosses  several 
arms  of  the  Moldnu.  on  a  bridge  of  eighty- 
seven  arches,  over  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
long,  which  cost  $1,700,000. 

Krjglup,  a  junction  of  two  lines  leading  to 
Kladircr,  in  the  midst  of  a  large  coal  district. 

\Veltruf,  a  small  village,  with  a  chateau 
and  park  belonging  to  Count  Chotek. 

Three  miles  from  this  station  is  the 
town  of  Mi-lnil:.  belonging  to  Prince  Lob- 
kowitz.  and  farther  on  is  the  station  Raud- 
iated  on  the  Ell>e  :  here  is  the  castle 
of  I'niK-i-  Lubkoir'ttz,  which  contains  a  fine 
armory,  picture-gallery,  and  a  library  of 
46,000  volumes.  It  was  in  this  castle 
that  It'tiji-.i,  the  ••  last  of  the  Tribunes."  was 
conlincd  in  1350,  by  the  Emperor  Charles 
IV. 

l.'-!>"filz   station    is    remarkable   as   the 

spot  where  the  first  battle  of  the  Seven- 

\Var   took   place,  when    Frederick 

tin-    Great   defeated  the  Austrians    under 

Marshal  Braun. 

At  Sitl-xl:  station  notice  on  the  opposite 

bank  of  the  river  the  extensive  ruins  of 

.  the  property  of  Prince  Lob- 

kowitz.     It  was  destroyed  by  the  Hussites 

in  1  l-2i'.. 

Aim.-,!,/, — Travelers  here  from  Toplitz  or 
Carlsbad  change  cars.  This  town  does 
considerable  traffic  in  the  coal  trade,  but 
otherwise  is  of  no  importance.  It  was  the 
birthplace  of  the  celebrated  painter  Ra- 
phael Mengs. 

JioJeiibiich  station.  This  is  the  frontier 
station  between  Prussia  and  Austria,  and 
travelers  descend  in  whatever  direction 
they  are  traveling.  Baggage  is  exam- 
ined, and  the  proprietor  of  the  restaurant 
changes  Austrian  money  into  German,  or 
.-•T.  A  stop  of  nearly  an  hour  takes 
place. 

As  the  line  approaches  Dresden  it  pro- 
ceeds through  the  interesting  scenery  of 
the  "  Saxon  Switzerland."  jia.-siim 

Ki"'rn\:<s.ttn'n,  a  celebrated  fortress  rising 
750  feet  above  the  River  Elbe,  and  com- 
manding a  splendid  prospect.  It  has 
been  garrisoned  by  Prussian  troops  since 
1866. 

",  a  high  rock  on  the  opposite  bank, 
723 


JOSEPHSTADT. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


REICHENBACH. 


from  whence  there  is  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  whole  of  "  Saxon  Switzerland." 
Dres le:>.     For  description,  see  Index. 

ROUTE  No.  186. 

Vienna  to  Prague,  Dresden,  Berlin,  and 
Hamburg,  by  North  Western  of  Austria  Rail- 
way (sleeping-car  route),  via  Znaim,  Deutsch- 
brod,  Kolin  (Prague'),  Riesa  (Prague),  Vsetat- 
Privor  (Prague),  Aussig  (Teplilz,  Carlsbad, 
etc.),  Tetschcn,  and  Dresde::;  thence  to  Ber- 
lin, vi  i  Rodeniu,  and  to  Leipzig  and  Ham- 
burg, via  Riesa.  [Excursion  to  the  Riesen- 
gebirgc.~\  The  sleeping-car  goes  direct  to 
Dresden,  Berlin,  Leipzig,  and  Hamburg;  but 
for  Prague  should  be  left,  or  taken,  at  Lissa, 
and  for  Teplitz  and  Carlsbad,  at  Aussig. 

Vienna  to  Prague,  via  Lissa,  9J  h. ;  20  fl. 
42  kr. ; — to  Teplitz,  via  Aussig  (33  min.  from 
Aussig),  11  h.  12  m. ;  26  fl.  4  kr. ;—  to  Carls- 
bad, via  A  utsiy  (4  h.  12  m.  from  Aussig),  15 
h.  9  m. ;  26  fl.  78  kr. ;— to  Dresden,  11  h.  29 
m. ;  54  marks,  70  pf. ; — to  Berlin,  15  h.  17 
m. ;  71  mks. ; — to  Leipzig,  via  Riesa,  14  h. 
14  m. ;  66  mks.  60  pf. ; — to  Hamburg,  via 
Riesa  and  Stendhal,  21  h.  5  m. ;  101  mks., 
40  pf.  Sleeping-car  tickets  are  rated  as  fol- 
lows :  Vienna  to  Dresden,  10£  mks. ; — to  Ber- 
lin, 12  mks. ; — to  Hamburg,  16  mks. ;  other 
distances  are  charged  for  at  the  rate  of  6  mks. 
for  250  kil.  (155  E.  m.),  greater  distances  cost- 
ing 75  pf.  for  every  50  kil.  (31  E.  m.)  or  un- 
der. 

Two  hours  from  Vienna,  passing  through 
Kornenburg  (16  kil.),  Stockerau  (26  kil.),  and 
Oberhallnbrunn  and  Zdlendorf  junction  (74 
kil.),  four  small  localities,  we  reach 

Znnim  (101  kil.),  a  junction,  with  a  branch 
line  to  Grussburg ;  a  short  stoppage  is  made 
here,  and  then  on  to 

Deutschbrod  junction  (225  kil.),  4  h.  55  m. 
from  Vienna ;  branch  lines  thence  to  Par- 
dubitz,  Josephstndt,  Reichenbach,  and  Bres- 
luu.  Through  Goltz-Jenikau  and  Czaslau, 

Kolin  junction  (299  kil.)  is  reached,  C  h.42 
m.  from  Vienna:  branch  line  to  Prague  in 
1  h.  3  m.  ;  through  Gross  Wossek  (308  kil., 
line  to  A.  Paka),  Podebrad,  Nimburg  junc- 
tion (323  kil.,  lines  to  Dobrowitz,  Jungbunzl, 
Turnau,  Reichenbach,  Seidenberg,  Gdrlitz"),  to 

Lissajunction  (338  kil.),  whence  to  Prague 
in  1  h.  llm.  (see  above). 

Vsetat-Privor  (362  kil.),  another  line  to 
Prague  hence  ;  Melnik.  and 

Aussiff  junction  (434  kil.),  good  buffet, 
724 


change  of  cars  for  Teplitz,  Carlsbad,  etc.  (see 
above).  Hence  31  min.  to 

Tetschen  (458  kil.),  10  h.  1  m.  from  Vienna, 
and  the  Austrian  frontier  station  (see  above). 

Remainder  of  route  to  Dresden,  etc.,  see 
Route  185,  and  Index. 

Excursions  can  be  made  from  Vienna  via 
Pardubitz  and  Josephstadt  into  the  Riesenge- 
Itiryi'.  the  "Giant  Mountains"  of  Silesia. 
Passing  Hirschberg,  Warmbrunn  (sulphur- 
ous springs),  and  Hermsdorf  Castle.  Schnff- 
gotsch  should  be  visited,  and  an  excursion 
be  made  to  the  Schneekoppe.  The  custodian 
of  the  ruins  tells  the  following  legend : 

In  olden  times  the  castle  was  inhabited 
by  a  great  beauty,  named  Kunigunde,  the 
only  daughter  of  its  lord,  who  had  made  a 
vow  that  she  would  never  wed  unless  the 
claimant  for  her  hand  should  first  ride 
around  the  castle  on  the  top  of  the  outer 
wall,  a  fearful  depth  to  the  frightful  abyss 
below.  Being  rich  and  beautiful,  she  had 
numerous  suitors,  most  of  whom  retired 
when  they  heard  the  conditions  of  success ; 
but  many  made  the  attempt,  and  horses 
and  riders  were  dashed  to  pieces.  As  she 
wished  to  remain  single,  this  was  the  cruel 
price  she  put  upon  her  hand.  Finally  a 
knight  arrived  whose  manly  beauty  and 
daring  zeal  awakened  a  real  interest  in 
the  hard-hearted  Kunigunde,  and  for  the 
first  time  she  hoped  the  suitor  would  be 
successful,  and  watched  with  fear  and 
trembling  the  horse  and  rider  make  the 
dreadful  circuit ;  when  he  had  dismounted, 
she  advanced  toward  him  with  open  arms, 
but,  instead  of  the  expected  embrace,  she 
received  a  box  on  the  ear,  and,  before  she 
had  time  to  recover  from  her  indignation 
and  amazement,  the  horse  and  rider  had 
departed.  It  seems  to  have  been  the 
Landgrave  of  Thuringia,  a  married  man, 
who,  to  avenge  his  brother's  death,  had 
practiced  his  horse  to  accomplish  the  dar- 
ing feat. 

Excursions  are  made  to  the  top  of  the 
Schneekoppe,  in  five  hours  from  Herms- 
dorf.  This  is  the  highest  summit  of  the 
Riescngebirge,  being  5100  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  There  was  a  chapel 
erected  on  the  summit  in  1681,  and  two 
inns — one  on  the  Bohemian,  and  the  other 
on  the  Prussian  side  of  the  peak. 

i  i<"ii -lit-,  described  in  Route  Xo.  172. 

Ri  i'  henbach. — Hotel,  Simue.  It  was  to 
this  town  that  the  Russians. and  Prussians 


HAMBURG 


JVitttnbergt 


BERLIN 


JMh 

Leipzig 


Keichenberg 

Litbau 


NORTH-WESTERN  OF  AUSTRIA 
RAILWAY, 

SLEEPING  CAR    ROUTE    BETWEEN    AUSTRIA,    SAXONY, 
AND    NORTH    GERMANY. 


VIENNA" 


LOBA0. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


TABOR. 


returned  after  thoir  defeat  by  Napoleon 
at  Bautzen,  May  20,  1813;  and  the  Rus- 
sian ball  which  mortally  wounded  Duroc, 
Napoleon' s  favorite,  was  fired  from  this 
village.  Two  miles  from  the  town  a 
simple  block  of  sandstone  marks  the  spot 
where  Duroc  and  Kirchner  fell.  A  sum 
of  money  was  bequeathed  by  Napoleon  for 
that  purpose,  and  the  monument  was 
erected  in  1840. 

Lubnu,  an  ancient  Saxon  town.  Rail- 
icay  Hotel.  The  Rathluvis  is  of  great  an- 
tiquity, and  here  for  five  centuries  the 
deputies  of  the  six  towns  of  Lusatia  were 
in  the  habit  of  meeting.  These  towns 
are  occupied  by  Wends,  a  Slavonic  race, 
with  distinct  and  separate  manners,  dress, 
and  language. 

There  is  an  iron  tower  on  an  adjoining 
hill,  from  whence  there  is  a  fine  prospect. 
Noar  the  station  l\>innu  riiz  is  the  town  of 
Jliifhkirch,  noted  for  the  memorable  and 
di>astrous  battle  fought  here  by  Frederick 
the  Great,  October  14th,  1758".  Marshal 
Keith,  a  Scotch  nobleman,  son  of  Lord  Keith, 
and  favorite  of  Frederick  the  Great,  was 
mortally  wounded  here.  A  monument  has 
been  erected  to  his  memory  in  the  village 
church. 

Excursions  are  made  from  Hochkirch 
to  Czurm-bu/i,  or  "  Devil's  Mountain,"  in 
one  and  a  half  hours.  The  prospect  is 
very  line. 

Jy/i/tt-e.'i.  the  capital  of  Upper  Lusatia,  a 
.Saxon  province,  is  finely  situated  on  a 
height  above  the  Spree,  and  contains 
I'J.liOO  inhabitants.  It  is  surrounded  by 
walls  and  watch-towers. 

Crossing  the  valley  of  the  Spree  by  a 
long  bridge,  Dresden  is  reached. 

ROUTE  No.  187. 

\'iinna  to  Carlsbad,  ria  Gmund,  Pilsen, 
and  Kger.  Time,  14  h.  3G  m. ;  fare,  first 
class,  L'6  fl.  69  kr. ;  second  class,  22  fl.  24  kr. 
The  most  direct  route  to  Carlsbad,  but  oth- 
erwise unimportant. 

Budweis  (hotel,  Sonne),  situated  on  the 
River  Moldau,  contains  14,250  inhabitants. 
Nearly  the  entire  district  is  the  propert)' 
of  Prince  Schwarzenberj,  who  has  erected 
here  a  modern  Gothic  castle  by  the  side  of 
the  old  feudal  fortress.  Attached  to  the 
palace  is  a  park  containing  nearly  one 
thousand  wild  swim-. 

laricnbad.       H<>/</    Kliht/ai    the    best 
VOL.  II.— I 


house  here,  finely  situated  in  front  of  the 
Kursaal,  the  Baths,  and  principal  springs, 
well  conducted,  and  prices  moderate.  Ma- 
rienbad  is  most  beautifully  situated  in  a 
high  and  dry  locality,  surrounded  by  hand- 
some walks,  and  kept  in  fine  order  by  the 
monks  of  Tepl,  to  whom  the  property  be- 
longs. The  springs  are  of  two  kinds,  sa- 
line (purgative)  and  chalybeate,  and  are 
considered  the  finest  waters  in  Europe  for 
the  cure  of  bilious  complaints.  Three  of 
the  principal  buildings  are  the  Kursaal, 
Assembly-room,  and  Pump-room.  There  is 
also  the  fine  covered  portico  of  the  Kreuz- 
brunnen.  Lower  down  the  valley,  in  the 
midst  of  beautiful  pleasure-grounds,  are 
the  different  mineral  springs,  covered  with 
elegant  temples.  The  Kreuzbrunnen  and 
Ferdinandsbrunnen  are  the  saline  (purga- 
tive) waters :  immense  quantities  of  the  for- 
mer are  yearly  exported.  Gas-baths  are 
given  in  the  New  Bath-house.  Mud-baths 
are  also  given.  Marienbad  has  a  theatre, 
and  balls  and  concerts  are  often  given. 
The  excursions  are  numerous  :  those  to  the 
Convent  of  Tepl,  six  miles  distant,  and  to 
Prince  Metternich's  chateau,  five  miles  dis- 
tant, are  the  most  interesting. 

ROUTE  No.  188. 

Vienna  to  Prague,  via  Gmiind  and  Tabor 
(  Kniaer  Franz  Joseph's  R'y~) ;  time.  10  h.  7  m.; 
fan-,  1  st.class.17 11.75 kr. ;  2d class,  14 fl. 60 kr. 

At  Gmiind  the  line  branches  off  to  the 
left,  and  nearly  follows  the  old  post-road. 
About  midway  between  Vienna  and 
Prague  is  the  town  of 

7 'nhiti;  the  only  place  of  particular  in- 
terest on  the  route.  It  contains  4500  in- 
habitants. It  is  situated  on  the  side  of  a 
hill,  and  is  nearly  surrounded  by  the  wind- 
ings of  the  River  Luxchnitz.  The  town  was 
founded  in  1419  by  the  Hussites. 

The  adherents  of  John  Huss  (who  was 
born  in  Bohemia),  after  his  martyrdom  at 
Constance  in  1415,  profiting  by  the  weak- 
ness of  the  Emperor  Wencislaus,  took  to 
arms  under  the  leadership  of  John  Zi<kn 
and  yir/iolim  il<'  //imnim-tz.  They  founded 
this  town  for  a  fortress,  and  gave  it  the 
Scriptural  name  of  Tabor.  They  van- 
quished the  imperial  forces  in  several  bat- 
tles;  but  they  soon  became  enfeebled  by 
contentions  in  their  own  deliberations,  and 
by  the  death  it'  I  heir  two  chiefs.  How- 
ever, the  Grand-Duke  of  Lithuania,  who  had 
725 


TABOR. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


LlNZ. 


been  elected  emperor  by  their  assistance, 
revived  their  sinking  spirits,  and  they  were 
again  victorious  over  the  imperial  Catholic 
forces  at  Aussig  in  1426 ;  and  again  at 
Mies  in  1427,  and  at  Sue-bait  in  1431. 
Austria,  Saxony,  and  Bohemia  were  soon 
overrun  and  ravaged,  and  the  most  un- 
heard of  cruelties  committed  by  them. 
An  unsuccessful  attempt  at  reconciliation 
was  made  at  Prague  in  1433.  The  great 
victory  of  the  Catholics,  united  with  the 
moderate  Hussites,  at  BomiscKbrod  in  1434, 
put  an  end  to  the  war. 

The  Hussites  were  too  feeble  afterward 
to  take  up  arms,  and  were  contented  in  de- 
fending themselves  in  the  Diets.  They 
soon  entirely  disappeared,  and  became  in- 
corporated with  the  new  sect,  the  Mora- 
vian Brothers. 

Some  portions  of  the  walls  and  towers 
still  exist.  In  the  market-place  an  old 
balcony  is  shown  called  Ziska's  pulpit. 
The  Rathhaus  contains  a  suit  of  his  chain 
armor.  The  Gothic  Dechanatskirche  is 
situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
and  presents  a  very  picturesque  appear- 
ance with  its  numerous  cupolas.  There  is 
a  hill  near  called  Horeb,  and  a  pond  called 
Jordan. 

Prague.     See  Route  No.  185. 


ROUTE  No.  189. 

Vienna  to  Munich,  via  Linz,  Wel$,Attnang 
(junction  for  Gmunden,  Ebensee,  and  Ischl), 
Salzburg,  and  Rosenheim  (route  over  the 
Brenner  Pass),  to  Innsbruck,  Botzen,  and 
Verona  (from  Linz  to  itatisbon,  via  Passau). 
Time,  9  h.  55  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  22  fl.  23 
kr. ;  second  class,  16  fl.  62  kr. 

Passing  numerous  stations  of  no  special 
importance,  St.  Polten  is  reached :  this  town 
contains  4600  inhabitants,  is  the  seat  of  a 
bishop,  and  possesses  some  fine  buildings, 
among  which  is  the  Cathedral,  founded  in 
the  llth  century;  rebuilt  after  being  burn- 
ed in  the  13th,  and  restored  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  last  century. 
726 


Molk,  a  small  town  finely  situated  at 
the  foot  of  a  mountain,  surmounted  by  a 
Benedictine  abbey,  founded  in  1089,  and 
presenting  a  splendid  spectacle.  Its 
church  is  built  of  red  marble,  finely  gilded, 
and  is  celebrated  for  its  fine  organ.  The 
library  is  a  most  valuable  one,  contain- 
ing 30,000  volumes  and  1500  MSS.  Its 
magnificent  saloon  contains  some  fine 
pictures. 

The  Treasury  contains  some  valuable 
relics ;  among  others,  a  crucifix  containing 
a  piece  of  the  true  cross,  presented  by  the 
Margrave  Albert  in  1005.  The  view  from 
the  monastery  is  most  superb. 

Enns,  a  small  town  containing  4100  in- 
habitants, situated  in  a  most  picturesque 
position  on  the  left  bank  of  the  River  Enns. 
The  walls  of  the  town  were  built  with  the 
ransom-money  paid  for  liichard  Cctur  de 
Lion.  Enns  was  the  scene  of  martyrdom 
of  the  Christians  by  Galerius  in  304; 
many  were  thrown  into  the  river  with 
millstones  around  their  necks.  One  of 
them,  named  Florian,  floated  long  enough 
to  preach  a  sermon  to  his  persecutors ! 

On  a  height  above  the  town  stands  the 
Chateau  Ennseck,  belonging  to  Prince  Au- 
ersperg,  who  owns  the  town.  It  has  a 
fine  collection  of  Roman  antiquities. 

Three  miles  southwest  of  Asten  station 
lies  the  abbey  of  St.  Florian,  one  of  the 
oldest  and  best-known  in  the  empire.  The 
present  building  dates  from  the  18th  centu- 
ry, but  the  crypt  owes  its  origin  to  the  13th. 
The  Kaisersaal  is  a  very  handsome  apart- 
ment. The  library  contains  40,000  vol- 
umes and  many  valuable  MSS.,  with  a  fine 
collection  of  coins  and  medals.  The  picture- 
gallery  is  large  in  number,  but  the  copies 
are  numerous. 

The  line  here  crosses  the  River  Traun, 
near  which  is  the  village  of  Ebelsberg,  cel- 
ebrated for  the  battle  between  the  Aus- 
trians,  under  Hiller,  and  the  French  undeif 
Massena ;  the  battle  took  place  May  3d, 
1809.  The  passage  of  the  bridge  was  con- 
tested by  the  Austrians  a  long  time,  but 
Massena  finally  forced  it;  12,000  men  fell 
in  the  conflict. 

Linz  is  situated  on  the  Danube,  and  con- 
tains 31,000  inhabitants.  It  is  the  princi- 
pal town  of  Upper  Austria.  Hotels.  Erz- 
fuvzoff  Carl  and  Rother  Krebs.  The  town  is 
connected  with  its"  suburb,  Urfahr,  by  a 
line  iron  bridge,  erected  in  1872. 


WEI-S. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


BRAOXAU. 


In  the  Great  Market-place  stands  "  Trin- 
ity Column,"  erected  by  the  Emperor 
Charles  VI.  in  1713,  to  commemorate  the 
deliverance  of  the  country  from  pestilential 
diseases  and  the  invasion  of  enemies. 

The  Landhuus,  formerly  a  convent,  is 
used  as  the  parliament  for  the  meeting  of 
Mic  Estates  of  Upper  Austria. 

The  old  Si-Moss,  erected  at  the  beginning 
of  the  present  century,  has  been  converted 
into  a  barrack. 

The  Lattdet'Jtttuetm,  open  every  day, 
contains  numerous  objects  of  curiosity  be- 
longing to  the  district. 

Adjoining  the  Museum  is  the  T/ieater ; 
performances  every  evening. 

The  church  of  the  Capucins  contains  the 
tomb  of  Montecuccoli,  the  celebrated  gener- 
al of  the  Thirty-years'  AVar. 

One  and  a  half  miles  from  the  town 
stands  the  tower  of  Freinberg,  built  by  the 
Archduke  Maximilian,  who  fortified  the 
town  by  an  isolated  chain  of  forts,  thirty- 
two  in  number  (useless  against  modern  ar- 
tillery"). There  is  a  splendid  view  from 
the  tower,  open  until  7  P.M.  Ladles  not 
admitted .' 

Jdyermeyer1 's  Garten,  on  the  top  of  the 
bill  behind  the  town,  is  a  place  of  general 
resort  for  the  citizens  ;  the  view  is  delight- 
ful. But  better  still  is  that  from  Postliny- 
Ikri/,  situated  on  the  left  side  of  the  river, 
distant  two  miles  from  the  town. 

To  the  church  of  St.  Madelaine,  three 
quarters  of  an  hour's  time,  is  also  a  fine 
excursion. 

Steamers  run  daily  between  Linz  and 
Fassau. 

Line  of  railway  direct  from  Linz  to 
Prague-,  passing  through  Frcittadl,  Kaplctz, 
and  Budireis.  See  Route  Xo.  187. 

Wds  junction  (hotel,  D-T  Greiff")  con- 
tains I;i0i)  inhabitants.  Nothing  of  impor- 
tance to  be  seen.  There  is  an  old  castle 
here,  in  which  the  Emperor  Maximilian  I. 
died  (1519)  ;  also  Charles  of  Lorraine,  who, 
with  John  Sobieski,  freed  Vienna  from  the 
Turks. 

Three  and  a  half  hours  from  Wels 
stands  the  famous  Benedictine  abbey  of 
Kreuzmunster,  founded  in  772  by  the  Duke 
of  Bavaria,  he  having  received  the  lake  and 
adjoining  lands  as  a  gift  from  the  Emperor 
Charlemagne.  The  modern  building, which 
contains  an  observatory  and  fine  library, 
dates  from  the  18th  century. 


[From  Wels  one  line  proceeds  to  the 
right,  through  Passuu,  to  Hatisbon  and  Nu- 
remberg. 

Passttu  contains  13,500  inhabitants.  Ho- 
tel, Wildermnnn.  The  town  is  finely  situ- 
ated on  a  tongue  of  land  formed  by  the 
junction  of  the  Inn,  Ilz,  and  Danube.  It 
was  the  Castra  Batava  of  the  Romans,  and 
the  seat  of  an  independent  bishop  up  to 
1803. 

The  Cathedral  was  founded  in  1284,  and 
rebuilt  in  1662.  It  was  much  changed  and 
improved  in  1865.  The  place  in  front  is 
decorated  with  a  bronze  statue  of  Maxi- 
milian II. 

Crossing  the  Inn  on  a  wooden  bridge  rest- 
ing on  granite  piers,  270  yards  in  length, 
is  the  suburb  of  Innstadt,  fifteen  minutes 
above  which  is  the  J/ar«aA»//'church,  which 
attracts  a  great  number  of  pilgrims.  The 
view  from  this  spot  is  charming. 

On  the  opposite  side  is  the  fortress  of 
Oberhans.  Admittance  easily  obtained  ;  a 
small  fee  to  the  soldier  who  conducts  the 
visitor. 

Straubing  (hotel,  Wagner),  containing 
12,000  inhabitants,  and  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a  vast  fertile  plain,  the  best  grain 
district  of  the  kingdom  of  Bavaria. 

The  principal  churches  are  St.  James  and 
the  Church  of  the  Carmelites.  The  last  con- 
tains a  fine  monument  of  Duke  Albert  II. 

The  Castle  was  the  residence  of  Duke 
Albert  III.  and  his  wife,  Agnes  Bernauer, 
daughter  of  a  citizen  of  Augsburg,  who  was 
condemned  to  death  by  the  intrigues  of  her 
stepfather,  the  Duke  Ernest,  and  thrown 
from  the  bridge  into  the  Danube.  Her 
remains  were  interred  in  the  cemetery  of 
St.  Peter.  See  the  inscription  in  the 
chapel.] 

[The  direct  mail  line  to  Munich  passes 
through  Braunau  and  Ximpach. 

Braunau,  containing  2100  inhabitants, 
is  partly  surrounded  by  ancient  walls.  If 
going  from  Munich  to  Vienna,  baggage  is 
examined  by  the  Austrian  custom  officers. 
In  the  parish  church  there  is  a  picture  of 
a  citizen  whose  death  was  caused  by  lii.s 
beard,  which  was  so  long  that  it  tripped 
him  up. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Inn  is  the  village 
of  Siiiijiach,  where  baggage  is  examined 
by  Bavarian  officers,  when  going  to  Mu- 
nich. 

At  Neutvtting,  the  village  is  twenty  min- 
727 


ALTTOTTINO. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


ISCHL. 


utes  from  the  station.  A  half -hour 
east  is  the  village  of  A  Ittotti ng,  celebrated 
throughout  Germany  for  the  pilgrimages 
which  have  taken  place  to  the  church 
of  the  Black  Virgin,  which  stands  in  the 
centre  of  the  great  square.  Over  the 
high-altar  stand  the  Virgin  and  Child  in 
a  recess,  covered  with  gold  brocade  and 
precious  stones,  the  votive  offerings  of  nu- 
merous wealthy  pilgrims  for  the  last  twelve 
centuries, among  whom  were  Charlemagne, 
Pope  Pius  VI.,  etc.  Quantities  of  glass 
cases  are  filled  with  valuable  offerings,  in 
return  for  miraculous  cures  effected  by  the 
Black  Virgin.  The  hearts  of  numerous 
Bavarian  princes  are  deposited  here. 

Miihldorf,  a  small  industrious  town  of 
2000  inhabitants. 

Munich.     See  Index.] 

Continuing  the  route  from  Wels,  via 
Salzburg.  At  Lambach  there  is  a  branch 
line  to  the  left,  which  leads  to  Gmiindtn, 
situated  on  the  Traun  Lake. 

Seven  miles  from  Lambach  are  the  Falls 
of  Traun,  which  are  very  magnificent 
when  the  water  is  high,  and  rank  second 
at  such  times  to  hardly  any  in  Europe. 
The  miller  at  the  falls,  for  a  florin,  will 
shut  off  the  water  from  the  canal  and  send 
it  all  over  the  rocks.  To  visit  the  falls  a 
private  carriage  had  better  be  taken  from 
Lambach  to  Gmlinden.  Time,  3  hours; 
fare,  6  florins.  The  railway  company  sell 
tickets  with  the  privilege  of  stopping. 


Gmiinde.n,  much  frequented  as  a  summer 
residence  and  for  its  valuable  baths,  is  situ- 
ated in  a  really  lovely  position  at  the  head 
of  the  Traun  Lake  (Traunsee),  between 
Salzburg  and  Vienna,  2  h.  30  m.  from  Salz- 
burg and  5  h.  30  m.  from  Vienna.  Hotel, 
A  uslria.  The  A  ustria  is  a  magnificent  new 
building  on  the  lake,  close  to  the  steam- 
boat pier. 

A  fine  esplanade  (concerts  twice  dailj') 
stretches  from  the  town  along  the  shore  of 
the  lake,  commanding  lovel}'  views  of  the 
lake  and  mountains  beyond,  and  forming 
the  chief  promenade  and  rendezvous  of  vis- 
itors. The  drive  and  excursions  in  the  en- 
virons are  most  attractive,  and  the  villas 
very  handsome,  conspicuous  among  which 
are  those  of  the  Archduchess  Elizabeth  and 
the  Princess  Louise  of  Prussia.  The  baths 
are  efficacious  in  nervous  complaints,  wom- 
728 


en's  diseases,  rachitis,  scrofula,  rheumatism, 
gout,  indigestion,  impoverishment  of  the 
blood  (pneumatic  chamber  for  nervous  asth- 
ma, chronic  bronchial  catarrh,  etc.).  There 
is  a  theatre,  a  large  and  elegant  hirsaal. 
concerts,  balls,  reunions,  etc. 

The  parish  church  possesses  a  handsome 
wooden  altar,  carved  by  Schwanthaler. 

The  Lake  of  Traun  is  nearly  nine  miles 
long  and  one  and  a  half  broad.  A  steamer 
makes  the  tour  of  the  lake  in  1  h.  30  m. 
45  minutes  from  Gmunden  to  Lnngbalh. 
Fare,  1  florin  ;  go  and  return,  1  fl.  50  c. 

The  scenery  increases  in  beauty  as  the 
southern  extremity  is  approached,  On  the 
border  of  the  lake  Ebenzweier  may  be  seen. 
This  was  the  favorite  residence  of  the  Arch- 
duke Maximilian,  and  once  the  property  of 
the  Comte  de  Chambord  (Henry  V.). 

Ebensee  and  L-:ngbuth  are  the  same  vil- 
lage, situated  at  the  head  of  the  lake.  The 
distance  thence  to 

Ischl  is  only  eight  miles,  through  the 
valley  of  the  Traun.  This  town,  a  few 
years  since  almost  unknown,  has  become 
a  famous  and  fashionable  watering-place. 
It  is  the  favorite  summer  residence  of  the 
Emperor  of  Austria  ;  and  the  empress,  hav- 
ing been  betrothed  here,  is  especially  at- 
tached to  it.  Ischl  contains  4500  inhabit- 
ants. Hotels :  B/iuer  and  Victoria.  The 
Bauer  is  one  of  the  finest  hotels  in  Austria, 
in  a  commanding  position  in  its  own  park. 
The  Victoria  is  a  good,  smaller  house,  in  the 
town,  near  the  Kursaal.  During  the  height 
of  the  season  it  is  almost  impossible  to  find 
lodging.  Travellers  should  ascertain,  by 
telegraph,  if  they  can  be  accommodated. 

The  Cosmo  contains  ball,  billiard,  and  read- 
ing rooms.  One  can  also  breakfast  there. 

The  Theatre  is  open  during  the  season. 

Casino  tax,  for  ladies  or  gentlemen,  alone, 
and  if  stopping  more  than  eight  days,  1  fl. ; 
for  wives,  and  other  members  of  families, 
3  fl. ;  six  days  are  free  of  any  tax. 


SALZBUR<;. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


SALZBURG. 


Ischl  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  Salz-  ' 
kammergut,  which  contains  the  salt-mines 
of  Austria.  They  are  a  government  mo- 
nopoly, and  produce  about  ninety-five  mill- 
ion dollars  annually,  the  net  profit  from 
which  is  about  twelve  millions. 

Among  the  numerous  excursions  is  that 
to  A  ussee,  a  great  salt-producing  town,  with 
baths,  etc.  :  time,  3  h.  30  m. ;  fare  (two 
horses),  10  florins.  To  Wolfgang  ;  time,  2 
hours  ;  fare,  8  florins.  To  Weissenbach,  on 
the  Attersee.  To  the  lake  and  town  of 
Hulttttdt,  one  day.  To  the  Gosau  Lakes, 
one  long  day. 

Numerous  longer  excursions  are  made 
from  Halstadt. 

From  hchl  to  Salzburg,  via  the  Lake  of  St. ; 
Wolfgang  (making  the  ascent  of  the  Schqf-' 
berg  from  St.  Gilgen,  which  is  situated  at  the 
head  of  Lake  St.  Wolfgang).  Time,  7  h. 
30  m. ;  fare,  by  diligence,  4  fl.  6  kr. ;  from 
June  loth  to  September  15th,  3  fl.  15  kr. 

From  A  ttnang,  or  Rosenheim,  to  Salzburg, 
the  scenery  is  fine  at  Eftdorf  and  Prienz 
(boats),  Bernau,  magnificent  at  Bergen  and 
Traunstein,  and  fine  at  Teisendorf. 

Salzburg,  the  capital  of  the  Austrian 
province  of  that  name,  and  formerly  the 
seat  of  a  sovereign  archbishopric,  is  finely 
situated  on  the  River  Salza,  which  flows 
into  the  Inn.  Population,  19,000.  Hotel 
de  I' Europe,  a  fine,  first-class  house,  at  mod- 
erate charges,  not  far  from  the  railway 
station,  and  most  agreeably  situated  for  a 
summer  residence. 

The  Cathedral  is  an  imposing  structure, 
built  in  the  Italian  style  of  architecture 
during  the  early  part  of  the  17th  century.  . 
On  the  right,  as  you  enter,  notice  a  fine 
bronze  font  of  the  13th  century ;  also,  in  . 
front  of  the  entrance,  a  statue  of  the  Virgin.  ! 

The   castle,  or   Hohensalzburg,  which  i 
crowns  the  heights  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
river,  was  built  in  the  llth  century,  and 
served,  during  the  Middle  Ages,  both  as  a  | 
residence  and  stronghold  for  its  warlike 
bishops.     It  is   now  used  as   a  barrack. 
Some  of  the  rooms,  however,  have  been 
restored  to  their  original  splendor.    Notice 
the  torture-chamber,  where  thousands  of 

r:ints  suffered  on  account  of  their  re-  ' 
formed  religion.  The  view  from  Monchs- 
berg,  the  name  of  the  ridge  of  rock  on 
which  the  castle  is  built,  is  a  most  glorious 
one.  It  was  tunneled  by  the  Archbishop 
Sigismund  in  17G7.  The  archbishop  had  ; 


formerly  another  palace  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  called  Mirabel,-  being  de- 
stroyed by  fire,  the  emperor  erected  a  mod- 
ern building  on  the  site,  and  the  grounds 
have  been  thrown  open  for  a  public  prom- 
enade. 

Visit  the  collegiate  church  of  St.  Peter 
and  its  cemet3ry.  Under  the  arcades,  no- 
tice the  monument,by  Schwanthaler,  erect- 
ed to  the  Polish  Countess  Lanckoronska. 
Here,  also,  is  the  tomb  of  Michael  Haydn, 
brother  of  the  great  composer.  Near  the 
Hofbrunnen  (a  very  beautiful  fountain), 
notice  the  bronze  statue  of  Mozart,  who 
was  born  here  in  1756 ;  the  statue  is  by 
Schwanthaler.  In  erecting  this  monument 
numerous  Roman  mosaics  and  antiques 
were  found,  which  may  be  seen  in  the 
Museum. 

The  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  Salzburg 
are  very  numerous.  One  of  the  principal 
is  the  palace  of  Helbrunn,  with  handsome 
gardens,  in  which  the  fountains  play  every 
Sunday  afternoon  ;  to  make  them  play  at 
other  times,  1  florin  fee.  The  water-works 
are  most  curious.  The  salt-mines  ofHal- 
lein  are  exceedingly  curious  to  visit ;  both 
lady  and  gentlemen  visitors  must  don  a 
male  attire  to  visit  them  ;  fee,  1  florin  each 
person.  Also  that  most  lovely  of  all  ex- 
cursions, to  Berchtesgaden  and  the  Kd- 
niffssee;  this  last  excursion  will  require  a 
whole  day.  The  scenery  of  this  lake  is 
wonderfully  grand  and  magnificent,  sur- 
rounded as  it  is  by  a  wall  of  mountains 
rising  nearly  ei^ht  thousand  feet  on  every 
side ;  the  water  is  green,  deep,  and  limpid. 
Excursionists  generally  take  a  boat,  which 
is  rowed  by  women,  and  go  as  far  as  St. 
Bartholomew,  a  hunting-seat  belonging  to 
the  King  of  Bavaria,  in  whose  territory  tho 
lake  lies,  where  travelers  are  furnished 
with  refreshments.  Time,  1 J  hours ;  each 
rower  36  kr.,  and  boat  16  kr. 

There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  Captt- 
zinerbrrg,  a  convent  which  stands  on  a 
height. 

[From  Salzburg  to  Gastein,  or  Wildbad- 
Gastein.  Time,  13  h.  30  m.  by  the  re^ul  ir 
diligence;  fare,  9  fl.  75  kr.  During  the 
season  the  diligence  leaves  at  C>  A.M.  and 
<)  P.M.  :  a  private  carriage,  however,  will 
go  the  distance  in  10  hours.  The  principal 
hotel  is  Strnubinger's.  There  are  not  over 
forty  houses  in  tho  place,  but  the  water  is 
729 


REICHENHALU 


[AUSTRIA.] 


PRAOERHOF. 


highly  recommended  in  cases  of  gout,  rheu- 
matism, and  paralysis.  There  are  numer- 
ous excursions  in  the  vicinity,  j 

From  Salzfjnry  to  Munich.  Time,  3  h.  30 
m. ;  fare,  first  class,  6  fl.  9  kr. 

At  Freilasfing  station  a  branch  line  leads 
in  35  minutes  to  the  small  watering-place 
of 

Reichenhall,  situated  on  the  Saa'e,  and  the 
centre  of  the  Bavarian  salt-works.  Hotel, 
Kurhaus  Achselmannstein.  The  principal 
edifice  is  the  Brunnenhaus,  which  contains 
the  forcing-pumps  for  raising  the  brine. 

Traunstein  (hotel,  f/irscK),  a  small  mod- 
ern town,  nearly  all  built  up  since  its  de- 
struction by  fire  in  1851.  It  contains  3000 
inhabitants.  Its  salt-works  are  supplied 
with  brine  from  Reichenhall,  and  wood  for 
the  boiling-house  is  here  found  in  abun- 
dance. 

Munich.     For  description,  see  Index. 


ROUTE  No.  190. 

Vienna  to  Trieste  and  Venice: — to  Trieste, 
via  Bruck,  Gratz,  Marburg,  Pntgerhof,  Lai- 
bach,  and  Adelsberg; — to  Venice,  via  Briick, 
Villctch,  and  Udine.  Time  to  Trieste  (ex- 
press), 14  h.  40  m. ;  dist,  596  kil. ;  fare,  39 
fl.  7  kr.,  first  class ;  29  fl.  14  kr.,  second  class. 
Time  to  Venice  (express),  1C  h.  15  m. ;  fare, 
84  frs.  45  cs.  The  fare  by  express  trains  is 
augmented  seventeen  per  cent.  There  are 
sleeping-cars  on  the  line. 

The  road  runs  through  a  very  beautiful 
country,  and  passes  the  Austrian  Alps. 
This  passage  is  a  very  interesting  onr\  as 
during  a  distance  of  about  fifteen  miles  nu- 
merous tunnels  and  viaducts  lead  the  train 
through  a  wild  and  romantic  landscape. 
The  highest  point  of  the  railway  is  Sem- 
mering,  2788  feet  above  the  sea.  Although 
the  distance  is  long,  few  persons  stop 
until  they  arrive  at  Trieste  or  Venice.  If 
in  a  first-class  car,  one  can  enjoy  a  night 
on  the  road  very  well. 

Glocknitz,  at  the  base  of  the  Semmering, 
to  the  left  of  which,  on  the  heights,  is  the 
castle  of  W'trlenstein. 

Bruck,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Mur  and  Miirz,  with  a  fine  old  castle  be- 
longing to  the  princes  of  Bruck.    Railways 
to  Linz  and  to  Salzburg  by  Radstadt 
730 


Gratz,  distant  140  miles  from  Vienna, 
contains  a  population  of '97, 726.  Hotels, 
E'ephmt,  Archduke  John,  and  Stadt  Trieste. 
The  trains  stop  here  thirty  minutes.  Gratz 
is  the  capital  and  chief  city  of  Styria,  one 
of  the  provinces  of  Austria.  It  is  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  River  Mur,  and  is  dom- 
inated by  the  Schlossberg,  whence  you  en- 
joy a  magnificent  view  of  the  town,  the 
valley  of  the  Mur,  and  the  Alps  of  Stvria. 
i  Gratz  has  a  large  number  of  churches,  and 
i  a  fine  Gothic  cathedral  containing  many 
handsome  marble  monuments.  Contiguous 
to  the  cathedral  is  the  chapel  containing 
the  mausoleum  of  Ferdinand  II.,  who  was 
a  native  of  Gratz.  The  University,  found- 
ed by  Charles  Francis,  is  attended  by  up- 
ward of  300  students  ;  it  contains  a  librarv 
of  45,000  volumes  and  2000  MSS.  One  of 
the  most  interesting  institutions  in  Gratz 
or  in  Austria  is  the  Johanneiim,  of  which 
every  native  of  the  city  is  proud.  It  was 
founded  in  1811  by  the  Archduke  John, 
hence  its  name.  •  Its  object  is  the  encour- 
agement of  the  arts  and  manufactures  in 
Styria  by  means  of  collections,  lectures, 
and  a  public  library.  It  contains  a  mag- 
nificent museum,  and  the  various  appurte- 
nances of  a  great  educational  establish- 
ment. Gratz  is  well  supplied  with  all  kinds 
of  provisions,  and  is  considered  the  cheap- 
est town  in  Austria  to  live  in.  A  great 
proportion  of  the  inhabitants  are  persons 
'  of  rank,  army  officers,  and  others,  who  re- 
side here  on  account  of  the  cheapness  and 
quality  of  the  market.  The  female  popu- 
:  lation  are  distinguished  for  their  remarka- 
ble beauty.  Gratz  was  taken  by  the  French 
j  in  1809,  after  a  siege  of  seven  days.  Charles 
I  X.  of  France  and  his  family  resided  here 
after  the  Revolution  of  1830. 

Excursions  to  be  made  :  To  the  Hilmer- 
teich,  Manntrost,  and  Toblbad. 

From  the  station  Spielfeld  a  drive  of  4 
hours  (carriage,  8  florins)  leads  to  the  baths 
of  Gleichenberg. 

Marburg,  one  of  the  principal  towns  in 
Styria,  containing  6500  inhabitants.  Ho- 
tel, Stadt  \Vien.  It  is  most  picturesquely 
situated,  surrounded  by  vineyards  and  for- 
ests. 

Pragerh"f. — From  this  station  a  line  of 
railway  leads  to  Pesth  in  10J  hours  (see 
Route  No.  195),  of  which  travelers  should 
avail  themselves,  if  intending  to  visit  Pesth 
from  Vienna. 


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LAIBACH. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


TRIESTE. 


on  the  occasion  by  over  10.000  candles,  at- 
tracting several  thousand  visitors  from  all 
parts  of  Europe.  The  committee  of  man- 
agement for  the  State  have  arranged  that 
the  grotto  can  be  visited  dajr  or  night,  in 
summer  or  winter,  on  application.  In  the 
neighborhood  are  the  caverns  ofKleinhausel. 
Laas,  Magdalena.  Nussdorf,  Saint  Csnzian, 
etc.,  of  less  importance.  Close  by  is  the 
famous  Lake  of  Cirknitz  (lacus  lugens  of  the 
Romans),  remarkable  for  the  periodical  ebb 
and  flow  of  its  waters,  which,  at  intervals 
of  four  or  five  v,-eeks,  wholly  disappear;  it 
generally  takes  thirty  days  to  empty,  but 
tills  in  as  many  hours. 


tels:  Adelsbtrger  Hof,  Ungarische  Krone, 
and  Lowe.  The  grotto  is  well  worth  a  visit ; 
it  is  some  3000  meters  in  length,  and  requires 
a  two  hours'  visit,  two  thirds  of  which  can 
be  done  in  a  small  tram-car,  or  the  whole  in 
asedan-chair.  The  expense  of  visiting,  from 
1  fl.  50  kr.  upwards,  everything  included,  va- 
ries according  to  the  number  of  visitors,  and 
candles  used.  Electric  lighting  was  intro- 
duced in  1884.  The  boldest  expectations  of 
visitors  are  surpassed  by  the  reality  of  these 
wonderful  caves,  the  huge  and  beautiful 
rose-tinted  stalactites,  glistening  like  back- 
grounds of  diamonds,  the  cathedral  or  cu- 
pola, the  cascade,  the  river  flowing  under- 
ground, and  under  natural  bridges,  the  lion, 
the  dancing-hall,  the  Virgin,  the  tomb,  the 
belvidere,  the  huge  brilliant,  the  pavilion, 
the  parrot,  the  Calvary  (an  actual  ascent  of 
a  mountain  underground),  the  organ,  the 
large  cypress-trees,  and  above  all,  perhaps, 
the  curtain,  are  sights  which  remain  forever 
engraved  in  memory.  Further  wonders  are 
also  in  store  for  the  visitor,  as  several  lateral 
caves  of  great  beauty  will  soon  be  thrown 
open.  Stalactites  and  stalagmites  are  of 
great  length ;  the  guide?  assort  they  increase 
by  a  hair's  breadth  every  thirteen  vears,  ore 
of  them  adding,  in  reply  to  the  observation 
of  the  author,  that  their  age  would  lie  great- 
er than  the  generally  accepted  aire  of  the 
world:  "When  tourists  visit  this  grotto 
they  change  their  opinion  on  the  age  of  the 
world !"  Every  year,  during  Whitsuntide, 
a  festival  is  held  in  the  grotto,  illuminated 


Trieste,  commercial  capital  of  the  Aus- 
trian Empire,  is  situated  on  the  Adriatic, 
near  its  northeast  extremity:  144,437  in- 
habitants. It  is  the  capital  of  Illyria.  and 
was  declared  a  free  harbor  in  the  reign  of 
the  Emperor  Charles  VI.  All  the  princi- 
pal European  nations  are  represented  by 
consuls  here.  Hotels:  Delorme  and  de 
la.  Ville.  Trieste  is  a  free  port;  it  has 
supplanted  Venice,  and  monopolized  near- 
ly the  whole  of  the  Adriatic  trade.  Ship- 
building is  carried  on,  and  there  are  manu- 
factories of  various  kinds.  Trieste  has  no 
natural  harbor,  but  a  canal  enables  vessels 
of  considerable  tonnage  to  penetrate  the 
town,  and  load  or  unload  at  the  doors  of 
the  inhabitants.  It  has  also  a  large  mole, 
constructed  of  regular  masonry,  which 
serves  as  a  protection  for  the  shipping. 
The  city  is  divided  into  old  and  new  town 
by  the  Corso,  which  is  the  principal  street, 
and  on  which  are  situated  the  principal 
stores  and  coffee-houses.  It  communicates 
with  two  public  squares,  the  Piazza,  Grande 
and  horsenplsitz,  in  the  former  of  which 
is  a  fine  public  fountain,  with  the  column 
and  statue  of  Charles  VI.,  to  whom,  and 
Maria  Theresa,  Trieste  is  principally  in- 
debted for  its  importance. 

The  cathedral  of  San  Giusto,  in  the  old 
town,  is  situated  on  the  hill  near  the  castle. 
It  is  supposed  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  temple 
731 


TRIESTE. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


BRUXECK. 


of  Jupiter.  It  is  in  the  Byzantine  style, 
and  dates  back  to  the  fourth  century.  It 
contains  the  tomb  of  Winckelmann  the  anti- 
quary, who  was  murdered  in  an  inn  here 
by  an  Italian  to  whom  he  had  shown  a  gold 
medal  which  had  been  awarded  to  him  by 
the  government  at  Vienna.  In  the  south- 
ern aisle  may  be  seen  the  tombstone  of 
Don  Carlos,  pretender  to  the  throne  of 
$pain,  who  died  here  in  1855.  Fouche, 
£>uke  of  Otranto,  minister  of  police  for  Na- 
f>leon,  died  here  in  1820,  and  was  buried 
under  the  terrace  before  the  cathedral. 

'±:be  Exchange,  standing  in  the  Exchange 
Place,  is  a  very  beautiful  building.  The 
Casino  club  is  situated  here,  to  which  gen- 
tlemen can  easily  be  introduced.  The 
finest  church  in  the  city  is  that  situated  at 
the  head  of  the  great  canal.  It  contains 
a  magnificent  altar,  and  its  organ  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  best  on  the  Continent. 
The  church  of  the  Jesuits  is  a  noble  build- 
ing, and  contains  some  fine  paintings. 
The  traveler  should  by  no  means  neglect 
to  drop  in  at  the  Ttrgesteum.  It  contains 
the  rooms  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd's,  a  bazar, 
concert  and  ball  room,  reading-rooms  and 
conversation-rooms,  all  fitted  up  in  the 
most  magnificent  style.  The  Piazzetta  de 
Ricardo  received  its  name  from  its  having 
been  the  place  where  Richard  Cceur  de 
Lion  was  confined  on  his  return  from  the 
Holy  Land. 

The  population  of  Trieste  is  very  Ori- 
ental in  its  appearance,  derived  as  it  is 
from  all  the  commercial  nations  of  the 
Mediterranean  —  Greeks,  Italians,  Jews, 
Armenians,  Germans,  and  Americans. 

The  Austrian  Lloyd's  are  a  very  numer- 
ous line  of  steamers  running  to  all  parts  of 
the  Mediterranean,  starting  daily,  week. 
ly,  and  semi-weekly.  Their  principal  sail- 
ings are  as  follows:  Alexandria,  via  Port 
Said,  weekly;  Athens  (Piraeus),  via  Syra, 
weekly,  and  via  Corfu  and  Patras,  bi- 
monthly ;  Smyrna,  via  Syra.  weekly,  and 
vi<i  Fiume,  Brindisi,  and  Syra,  weekly; 
Constantinople,  weekly  ;  Bet/rout,  ria  Al- 
exandria, bi-monthly,  and  via  Syra  and 
Smyrna,  bi-monthly;  Alexandria,  weekly; 
Sttlonica,  via  Syra  and  I'iraeus,  bi-monthly. 
(For  full  particulars  as  to  dates  of  sailing 
and  hour  of  departure,  with  date  and  hour 
of  arrival  at  destination,  see  advertise- 
ment.) 

A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  Castle  of 
732 


Miramar,  the  former  summer  residence  of 
the  ill-starred  Emperor  Maximilian.  It 
has  a  beautiful  park,  with  a  Museum  of 
Greek  and  Egyptian  Antiquities,  and  is 
open  to  the  public  on  Sundays  and  festi- 
vals ;  other  days  a  fee  of  50  kr.  It  is  a 
very  pretty  excursion  froin  Trieste.  Car- 
riage, 3  fl." 

There  are  three  public  gardens  in  Trieste, 
and  three  theatres. 

Should  travelers  wish  to  go  direct  to 
Venice  from  Vienna  by  rail,  they  must 
change  cars  at  Nebresina,  a  distance  of  12 
miles  from  Trieste. 

For  description  of  route  from  Trieste  to 
Venice,  see  Route  No.  193. 


ROUTE  No.  191. 

Villach  to  Brixen  by  the  Pusterihal,  and 
Villach  to  Bruck.  Time,  7  h.  42  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  10  fl.  8  kr. ;  second  class,  7  fl. 
56  kr.  The  railway  was  opened  in  1871 
through  the  Pusterthal,  one  of  the  long 
valleys  of  the  Tyrol.  There  is  nothing 
special  but  the  scenery  to  be  seen  on  this 
route. 

Sachseriburg,  a  village  with  numerous 
iron-works,  situated  in  a  narrow  valley ; 
near  it  stand  three  ruined  castles.  Car- 
riages for  Obervillach  and  Heiliyenblut. 

Passing  through  the  valley  of  the  Drave 
the  town  of  Linz  is  reached.  This  is  the 
first  place  of  importance  in  Austrian  Ty- 
rol. Hotels,  Goldenes  Rossi  and  Weisses 
Lamm.  The  town  contains  2200  inhabit- 
ants, is  beautifully  situated  on  the  River 
Isel,  in  the  centre  of  numerous  excursions. 
It  contains  two  convents.  The  more  mod- 
ern of  two  castles,  residences  of  the  an- 
cient lords  of  the  district,  the  counts  von 
(ii'irz.  is  now  used  as  a  brewery. 

Niederndorf,  a  pretty  village  as  regards 
situation,  contains  1200  inhabitants.  Ho- 
tel. Post.  Diligences  to  Cortina  daily  in 
3  h.  30  m. 

Bruneck. — Hotel,  Post.  The  principal 
place  in  the  valley.  It  contains  2000  in- 


ElSENERZ. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


CAJIPO  FORMIQ 


habitants,  and  stands  at  the  base  of  a  cas- 
tellated eminence,  which  is  crowned  by  the 
ancient  castle  of  the  bishops  of  Brixen,  now- 
used  as  a  prison. 

From  Bruneck  there  is  a  foot-path  which 
leads  over  the  high  Alps  by  the  pass  of 
Krimmlertamrn  into  the  valley  of  Sa'za. 
Distance  35  miles. 

I-'mnz-  nfcste  junction  and  Brixen.  See 
Index. 

Villach  to  Bruck.  Time,  8  h.  3  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  9  fl.  62  kr. ;  second  class,  7  fl. 
21  kr. 

The  principal  stations  are  St.  Veit,  Frei- 
t:ich,  Xeumarkt,  and  Indenburg. 


ROUTE  No.  193. 


ROUTE  No.  192. 

Gratz  to  Linz,  via  Bruck,  Steyer,  and  Enns. 
Time,  6  h.  68  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  13  fl.  '20 
kr. :  second  class,  9  fl.  63  kr. 

From  Gratz  to  Bruck,  see  Route  No.  190. 

Brack  to  Leoben  junction.  Train  direct 
to  Villach.  Turning  to  the  right  the  min- 
ing town  of 

Eisenerz  is  reached.  This  place  contains 
2000  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  nearly  at 
the  base  of  the  Pfuff^  nstein,  which  is  over 
6000  feet  high.  The  parish  church  of  *t. 
Osirald  was  founded  by  Rudolph  of  Haps- 
burg  in  the  13th  century.  The  town  was 
surrounded  with  ramparts  by  the  Emperor 
Maximilian. 

The  route  follows  the  valley  of  the  Enns, 
passing  through  Altenmarkt,  Losenstein, 
and  Steyer.  This  last  is  a  town  of  some 
ini|Kirtance,  containing  18,000  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Steyer 
and  Enns,  and  is  noted  for  its  iron-works. 
It  is  surmounted  by  a  castle  belonging  to 
the  Prince  of  Lemberg.  Hotel,  Golderxr 
Lowe. 

From  Enns  to  Linz,  see  Route  No.  189. 


VOL.  II.— I  2 


Trieste  to  Venice,  by  UcKne  and  Treviso. 
Time,  6  h.  59  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  26  fl. ; 
second  class,  19  fl.  65  kr. 

If  the  evenings  are  pleasant  the  steam- 
er to  Venice  should  be  taken,  as  there  is 
nothing  to  be  seen  on  the  route  by  rail. 
Steamers  every  other  night. 

Nttretme  junction,  change  cars  for  Ven- 
ice. The  direct  line  leads  to  Vienna. 

At  the  station  Monfalcone  the  line  quits 
the  coast,  proceeding  in  a  northwesterly 
direction. 

Seventeen  miles  north  of  this  station  is 
situated  the  poor  village  of  A  quileia,  for- 
merly the  great  Aquileia  of  the  Romans, 
with  100,000  inhabitants,  and  the  principal 
seat  of  commerce  between  Italy  and  the 
north  of  Europe.  In  452  Attila  plundered 
and  destroyed  it. 

Gorz,  or  Gorizia  of  the  Italians.  Hotel, 
Trots  Couronnes.  Beautifully  situated  on  the 
Isonzo,  with  13,000  inhabitants.  Its  only 
building  of  importance  is  the  ruined  castle 
of  the  counts  of  Gorizia,  now  used  as  a  prison. 

On  a  height  above  the  town  is  situated  the 
monastery  of  Castagnovizza.  Charles  X.  of 
France  died  here  in  1836,  and  was  interred  in 
the  chapel,  as  also  the  Comte  de  Chambord 
(Henry  V.),  who  died  at  Frohsdorf  in  1883. 
The  preserved  fruits  of  this  town  are  quite 
celebrated. 

At  the  station  of  S.  Giovanni  Manzano, 
the  frontier  town  of  Italy,  the  usual  cus- 
tom-house formalities  are  necessary.  Cor- 
mons  is  the  Austrian  frontier  town. 

I'dine,  an  Italian  town  of  26,000  inhabit- 
ants, formerly  the  capital  of  the  Austrian 
province  of  Frioul.  Hotels,  Europa  and 
Stella.  It  is  surrounded  by  walls  of  con- 
siderable antiquity.  It  is  commanded  by 
an  old  castle,  and  possesses  a  town -hall 
somewhat  similar  to  the  Doge's  palace  at 
Venice ;  also  a  campanile  with  figures  to 
strike  the  hour,  and  two  columns  like  those 
at  the  entrance  of  Piazza  St.  Mark. 

The  Episcopal  Palace  contains  a  ceiling 
painted  by  Giovanni,  with  some  other  ob- 
jects of  interest. 

The  Cathedral  possesses  some  good  paint- 
ings. 

The  old  castle  is  now  used  as  a  prison. 
The  Campo  Santo  should  be  visited. 

Campo  Forrmo  is  a  small  village  to  the 
right  of  the  railway,  noted  as  the  place 
733 


BELLUNO. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


PRESBURG. 


•where  the  treaty  between  France  and  Aus- 
tria was  concluded  by  Napoleon  and  the 
Emperor  of  Austria,  October,  1797.  The 
house  where  the  plenipotentiaries  met  is 
shown. 

Conegliano  contains  7200  inhabitants. 
It  is  commanded  by  a  conspicuous  castle. 

The  Duomo  contains  an  altar  -  piece  b}' 
the  celebrated  painter  Cima,  who  was  born 
here.  The  French  General  Moncey  bore 
the  title  of  Duke  of  Conegliano,  awarded 
him  by  Napoleon  I. 

Diligences  leave  Conegliano  daily  for 

Belluno. — Hotel,  Due  Torri.  It  contains 
14,000  inhabitants.  It  is  finely  situated  on 
a  hill,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Ardo  and 
Piave.  It  has  a  number  of  fine  churches. 
The  Duomo  possesses  some  good  paintings. 
It  has  a  campanile  120  feet  high.  Outside 
the  gate  is  a  triumphal  arch,  finished  in 
1815,  too  late  for  the  original  design — a 
monument  to  Napoleon  I. 

Treviso  (hotel,  Posta),  situated  on  the 
river  Sile,  contains  22,500  inhabitants. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a  fertile  district.  The 
Duomo  of  St.  Pietro  (still  unfinished)  is  sur- 
mounted by  five  cupolas.  It  contains  some 
fine  frescoes  by  Paris  Bordone,  an  altar- 
piece  by  Titian,  and  numerous  specimens 
of  Bellini. 

In  the  Monte  di  Pieta,  there  is  an  en- 
tombment of  Christ,  by  Giorgione,  said  to 
be  his  last  work,  and  finished  by  Titian. 
The  Theatre  and  Palazzo  Publico  are  fine 
structures. 

Mestre,  junction  of  the  lines  to  Venice 
and  to  Milan. 

Venice.     See  Index. 


ROUTE  No.  194. 

Vienna  to  Constantinople,  via  Presburg, 
Pesth,  Rustchuk  (rail  to  Varna,  and  steamers 
to  Constantinople).  Time,  via  the  Danube 
steamers,  68  hours  descending,  and  86  as- 
cending; fare,  first  class  (food,  which  is 
excellent,  included),  121  fl.  80  kr. ;  second 
class,  85  fl.  80  kr. 

In  the  summer  season  there  is  a  steamer 
daily  from  Vienna  to  Pesth  at  6.30  A.M., 
and  from  Pesth  to  Vienna  at  6  P.M. 
734 


From  Pesth  to  Semlin  and  Belgrade  four 
times  a  week,  and  from  Pesth  to  Bucharest 
and  Galatz  twice  a  week. 

All  particulars  in  regard  to  the  Danube 
steamers  can  be  obtained  at  the  office  of 
the  company  in  Vienna,  Weissgerber,  Ilin- 
tere  Zollamtsstrasse. 

A  few  days  can  be  spent  in  a  profitable 
manner  by  taking  the  steamer  at  Vienna, 
and  making  an  excursion  to  the  capital  of 
Hungary,  Pesth,  if  not  going  to  Constan- 
tinople. The  distance  from  Vienna  is  140 
miles.  Time,  by  rail,  10  hours ;  by  steam- 
er, going  down,  12  hours.  The  better  way  is 
to  go  by  steamer  and  return  by  rail.  The 
fare  by  railway  is  13  fl.  36  kr.,  and  by  steam- 
er 9  fl.  The  finest  part  of  the  excursion 
by  steamer  is  between  Deutsch-Altenburg 
and  Presburg. 

On  the  right  the  town  of  Hamburg  is  no- 
ticeable for  its  picturesque  walls  and  tow- 
ers ;  the  heights  above  crowned  with  the 
ruins  of  an  old  castle.  The  Imperial  To- 
bacco Manufactory  is  situated  here,  occu- 
pying the  labor  of  1500  persons,  about  one 
third  of  the  population  of  the  town.  To- 
bacco is  a  government  monopoly,  and  its 
growth  is  prohibited  in  all  parts  of  the  em- 
pire except  Hungary. 

Notice  the  Castle  of  Theben,  built  on  a 
summit  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Mo- 
rava  and  Danube. 

Presburg,  the  former  capital  of  Hungary, 
contains  46,740  inhabitants.  Principal  ho- 
tels, Griiner  Baum  and  King  of  Hungary, 
prettily  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Dan- 
ube. There  is  little  here  to  detain  the 
traveler. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville  dates  from  the  13th 
century.  It  was  restored  in  1857.  Near 
it  is  the  City  Museum,  containing  objects 
of  antiquity  of  the  Middle  Ages,  arms, 
etc.  There  is  also  another  museum,  con- 
taining a  collection  of  natural  history. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Martin  was  com- 
menced in  the  llth  century,  and  was  re- 
stored in  1867.  The  kings  of  Hungary 
were  crowned  here. 

The  Schloss,  or  Royal  Palace,  is  situated 
at  the  top  of  a  hill  above  the  town.  It 
was  nearly  all  destroyed  by  fire  in  1811. 
It  was  here  that  the  Empress  Maria  Theresa 
threw  herself  on  the  sympathies  of  the 
Hungarian  nobles,  who  responded  in  the 
most  liberal  manner  by  raising  money  and 
men  for  her  protection. 


P  EST"  H 


i^^ystm 


Harper's 


O  F  El  N 


— J 


gjfrOS^i^a 


~  Gi-tfdfuschr  Sir-cftt 

8  \alional .  Wuseusn . 

}>  JiihMtal  Thralei: 
10 

11  FnuKrvUals  Kitttir 

12  .Vi 

13  Haihhau 


id -Book 


KOMORX. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


PKSTU. 


Near  the  steamboat  landing  is  a  mound, 
called  Konigsberg,  which  each  new  king  as- 
cends after  his  coronation,  and  there  makes 
a  sinn  of  the  cross  with  his  sword,  which 
he  points  in  turn  to  the  four  points  of  the 
globe,  indicating  that  he  will  protect  the 
kingdom  from  every  quarter.  This  cere- 
mony now  takes  place  in  Pesth. 

Komorn,  an  exceedingly  strong  fortress, 
situated  on  the  island  of  Schiitt.  The  town 
contains  12.350  inhabitants.  This  fortress 
may  be  called  the  virgin  fortress,  as  it  has  i 
never  been  captured.  The  Emperor  Francis 
deposited  here  his  valuables  during  the  time 
Vienna  was  in  the  hands  of  the  French. 

An   excursion  may  be  made  from  Ko- 
morn to  Babolna,  where  there  is  an  im- 
perial stud  of  Arabian  horses  of  the  purest ! 
breed.     They  number  about  one  thousand. 

Gran,  the  Strigonium  of  the  Romans,  i 
contains  9000  inhabitants.     It  is  situated  ; 
near  the  confluence  of  the  Gran  with  tin- 
Danube.     It  is  the  residence  of  the  princes, 
chief  bishops  of  Hungary. 

The  principal  building  is  the  Cathedral, 
which  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a  hill.  It  is  a  square  building,  sur- 
mounted by  a  cupola  250  feet  high.  It 
was  commenced  in  1821,  at  the  expense 
of  the  prince  primate  of  Hungary,  in  the 
style  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome.  The  interior 
is  lined  with  polished  marble.  The  altar- 
piece  is  by  J/ess,  a  Hungarian  artist,  and 
represents  the  Baptism  of  St.  Stephen,  the 
first  king  of  Hungary,  who  became  a 
Christian,  and  who  founded  in  1001  the 
See  of  Gran.  At  the  bottom  of  the  hill 
stands  the  Bishop's  Palace. 

I 'fiith  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  bank 
of  the  Danube.  It  contains  with  Buda 
359,821  inhabitants.  Hotel  de  {'Europe, 
one  of  the  best  in  Hungary,  kept  by  Mr. 
Rainer.  This  city,  with  tiw.ia,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Danube,  forms  the 
modern  capital  of  Hungary,  and  the  third 
city,  in  point  of  population,  in  the  Aus- 
trian Empire.  Buda  is  an  ancient  place, 
built  chiefly  upon  the  lower  slopes  of  a 
range  of  picturesque  hills.  Tlie  town  is 
commanded  and  overlooked  by  a  castle, 
a  stern,  feudal-looking  pile.  In  this  was1 
deposited  the  crown  of  St.  Stephen,  king 
of  Hungary,  presented  by  Pope  Sylves- 
ter. A.D.  1000,  and  regarded  as  the  pal-1 
ladium  of  the  Hungarian  nation.  This 
cherished  monument  of  Hungarian  inde- 


pendence, removed  by  Kossuth  during  the 
recent  struggle,  with  a  view  to  its  preser- 
vation by  the  Magyar  nation,  fell  subse- 
quently into  the  possession  of  Austria,  but 
in  l*t>7  it  was  returned  to  the  Hungarians, 
who  keep  it  in  the  chapel  of  the  castle  at 
Buda.  Buda.  which  has  40,000  inhabit- 
ants, communicates  with  Pesth  by  a  hand- 
some suspension  bridge.  Pesth  is  a  hand- 
somely built  town,  and  is  the  centre  of  the 
inland  trade  of  Hungary.  There  is  a  mur 
seam  and  two  theatres.  There  are  four 
annual  fairs  held  in  Pesth,  at  which  it  is 
said  over  20,000  people  are  present.  The 
principal  trade  is  in  wine  and  corn ;  nu- 
merous mills  producing  the  best  flour 
known.  The  noted  Tokay  wine  is  much 
cultivated  by  the  Magyars.  The  hills 
around  Buda  are  all  covered  with  vine- 
yards, which  produce  the  Hungarian  wine 
called  Turk's  blood,  Ofner,  and  others. 

The  fortifications  which  crown  the 
heights  of  Buda  are  very  strong ;  never- 
theless, they  were  stormed  and  taken  by 
the  Hungarians  under  Gorgei  in  1849,  aft- 
er a  fearful  struggle,  in  which  the  brave 
Austrian  general  Hentzi,  with  418  of  his 
companions,  fell.  There  is  a  monument 
erected  to  them  in  the  square  of  the  royal 
palace.  It  consists  of  a  Gothic  cross,  un- 
der which  lies  a  wounded  soldier,  over 
whom  Fame  is  leaning.  At  the  side  of 
the  cross  are  the  names  of  the  418.  At 
the  foot  of  the  hills  on  which  the  fortress 
is  built  gush  copious  streams  of  hot  sul- 
phureous water,  which  were  highly  ap- 
preciated by  both  possessors  of  the  coun- 
try, Roman  and  Turk,  and  are  to  the  pres- 
ent day.  Turkish  baths  are  numerous 
here,  and  for  all  classes.  Three  of  the  an- 
cient baths  are  now  in  use. 

An  English  writer,  describing  one  of 
them,  says:  "The  largest  and  best  pre- 
served is  situated  near  the  bridge,  under 
the  Blocksberg :  its  Saracenic  architecture 
and  Turkish  inscription,  still  visible  out- 
side near  the  entrance,  sufficiently  mark 
its  founders.  On  opening  the  door,  I  wa- 
met  by  such  a  cloud  of  steam,  and  so  dis- 
agreeable an  odor  of  sulphur,  that  I  was 
in  doubt  at  first  whether  to  enter.  The 
apartment  was  also  so  dark  that  I  could 
not  see  a  foot  before  me,  and  as  I  knew 
there  must  be  water  near,  and  that  a  single 
step  might  plunge  me  in  the  middle  of 
it,  my  hesitation  to  advance  increased.  My 
735 


PESTH. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


MOHACZ. 


conductor,  however,  better  accustomed  to 
the  place,  led  me  to  a  spot  where  in  a  few 
minutes  my  eyes,  becoming  accustomed  to 
the  gloom,  began  to  discern  objects  athwart 
the  darkness.  I  found  myself  in  a  spa- 
cious circular  vault  or  dome,  supported  by 
eight  massive  columns,  surrounded  by  a 
basin  of  water  so  hot  that  the  vapor  aris- 
ing from  it  filled  the  whole  interior  and 
fell  in  drops  from  the  ceiling.  The  dim 
.light,  partially  admitted  through  one  or 
two  very  small  windows,  was  barely  able  to 
penetrate  this  dense  atmosphere.  It  was 
therefore  only  by  degrees  that  I  discovered 
in  the  midst  of  the  basin  a  crowd  of  bath- 
ers, male  and  female,  of  the  very  lowest  or- 
der, promiscuously  intermingled,  the  for- 
mer stark  naked,  except  a  slight  vestment 
round  the  loins,  the  women  in  not  much 
ampler  garb,  but  partially  covered  by  their 
long  tresses  falling  about  them." 

The  Kaistrbad,  half  an  hour  from  the 
bridge,  is  frequented  by  a  different  class 
of  people.  There  are  good  cafe-gardens, 
etc.,  where  concerts  are  given. 

The  best  Picture-gallery  in  Pesth  is  that 
formerly  belonging  to  Prince  Esterhazy, 
which  contains  several  Murillos,  Raphaels, 
Paul  Potters,  Rubenses,  Tintorettos,  Leon- 
ardo da  Vincis,  Domenichinos,  Rembrandts, 
and  other  great  masters.  This  is  the  finest 
collection  in  Europe  of  the  Spanish  masters 
out  of  Spain.  It  is  situated  in  the  Palace 
of  the  Academy,  and  was  purchased  from 
the  prince  in  1865  by  the  Austrian  govern- 
ment for  1,300,000  florins.  It  occupies  14 
saloons,  with  800  pictures.  It  is  open  to 
the  public  Wednesdaj',  Friday,  and  Satur- 
day, from  9  to  1 ;  on  other  days  an  order 
from  the  director  is  required. 

A  committee  of  experts  having  exam- 
ined the  document  known  as  Luther's  Will, 
has  declared  it  authentic.  The  document 
found  its  way,  with  a  number  of  manu- 
scripts of  the  learned  theologian  John 
Benedict  Carpzoino,  to  Hungary,  and  came 
into  the  hands  of  a  private  collector,  a  rich 
proprietor  named  Jankovics,  from  whom 
the  Archduchess  Maria  Dorothea  obtained 
it  for  400  golden  guldens.  She  presented 
it  to  the  Protestant  church  in  Pesth,  in 
whose  archives  it  has  lain,  nobody  being 
positively  certain  that  it  was  authentic. 
It  is  deposited  in  a  special  case  in  the  Na- 
tional Museum. 

Four  miles  distant  from  Buda  is  Alt- 
73Q 


Buda,  built  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  city 
of  Aguincum,  where  Attila  held  his  court. 
On  a  hill  beside  the  right  bank  of  the  Dan- 
ube, 18  miles  north  of  Buda.  are  the  ruins  of 
the  royal  castle  of  Wissegrad,  long  the  resi- 
dence of  the  native  sovereigns  of  Hungary. 

Of  the  public  buildings,  the  finest  and 
most  conspicuous  is  the  Neurjebaude.  a  bar- 
rack and  artillt-rv  depot — the  largest  in  the 
world.  It  was  erected  by  the  Emperor 
Joseph  in  1787. 

The  only  University  of  Hungary  is  that 
situated  in  Pesth.  It  was  originally  found- 
ed by  Cardinal  Pazman.  at  Tyrnau,  and 
transferred  to  Pesth  in  1780,  and  at  present 
has  about  one  thousand  students. 

The  Xational  Museum.  a.  fine  modern 
construction,  is  open  free  on  Mondays ; 
on  other  days  a  fee  of  50  kr.  It  contains 
a  good  collection  of  Hungarian  antiqui- 
ties, and  a  small  collection  of  pictures — 
open  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays — and  a  col- 
lection of  Natural  History,  to  be  seen  from 
9  to  1  on  Thursdays. 

In  front  of  the  museum  is  the  Landhaus, 
a  fine  building,  constructed  in  1866  for  the 
deliberation  of  the  members  of  the  Diet. 

American  tramways  are  in  the  principal 
streets.  Carriages  by  the  hour,  two  horses, 
2  fl. ;  one  horse,  80  kr. ;  by  the  day,  6  fl. 

Three  miles  below  Buda  is  the  town  of 
Promontorium,  the  principal  part  of  which 
belongs  to  the  Archduke  Albert,  son  of  the 
late  Archduke  Charles. 

Tolna,  on  the  right  bank,  has  a  popula- 
tion of  5500  inhabitants.  It  is  the  centre 
of  a  great  tobacco  district.  The  natives 
are  principally  Germans.  The  embassa- 
dor  of  the  Sultan  Soliman  was  drowned 
here  by  order  of  King  Louis  II. 

Baja,  a  town  of  15,-OOG  inhabitants,  is 
situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  It 
contains  a  handsome  palace,  belonging  to 
Prince  Grassalkovich. 

Moliucz,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Danube,  contains  a  population  of  9000. 
This  town  is  celebrated  for  the  famous 
battle  between  the  Turks  and  Austrians. 
fought  in  1526 ;  when  the  best  forces  of 
the  Magyars  were  left  dead  upon  the  field, 
two  thirds  of  the  entire  army,  headed  by 
their  king,  having  perished. 

From  Mohacz  there  is  a  branch  railway 
to  Ufzag,  near  which  is  the  town  of  Funf* 
Idrchen,  a  town  of  20,000  inhabitants,  situ- 
ated in  the  centre1  of  a  coal  di-trict. 


NECSATZ. 


[AUSTlMA.j 


BASIASCH. 


On  the  right  is  the  strong  fortress  of  '  the  Russo-Turkish  war  Servia  has  become 
Petertcardein,  where  Prince  Eugene  gained  independent.  Its  fortifications  were  much 
a  great  victory  over  the  Turks  in  1716.  improved  in  l^i'(>. 

The  fortress  is  now  used  as  a  state  prison,  >       It  was  at  Belgrade  that  victorious  Tur- 
and  contains  a  garrison  of  4000  men.  key.  in  17:il<.  signed  a  treaty  with  Austria 

On  the  left  liank  is  the  town  «>f  Xfisat:.  and  Russia,  making  them  give  up  their 
It  rontains  a  population  of '22,000,  chieriy  conquests  of  \Vallachia,  Moldavia,  and  Ser- 
GiTinans.  who  emigrated  from  Belgrade  via,  and  obliged  Russia  to  renounce  the 
when  that  town  was  given  up  to  Turkey,  navigation  of  the  Black  Sea. 


Karloteitz,  a  town  of  6000  inhabitants, 
well  known  in  history  for  the  celebrated 
battle  gained  here  by  Prince  Eugene  in 
171(3.  The  Turks  lost  25,000  men,  203 
pieces  of  artillery,  and  nearly  all  their  camp 
baggage.  The  celebrated  treaty  of  peace 
i_;ned  here  in  1699,  securing  to  Aus- 
tria Hungary,  Slavonia,  and  a  large  por- 
tion of  Transylvania — nearly  half  of  Tur- 
key in  Europe. 

Semlin  is  the  last  Hungarian  town.  It 
is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river, 
and  contains  10,000  inhabitants,  consisting 
mostly  of  Servians,  Germans,  Greeks,  and 
Illyrians.  On  the  top  of  a  hill  called  the 


The  fortress  was  garrisoned  by  the  troops 
of  the  Sultan  until  1867,  when  it  was  hand- 
ed over  to  the  Servian  government. 

Servia  is  now  a  principality,  governed 
by  a  constitution  dating  from  1869.  The 
title  of  prince  is  hereditary  in  the  family 
of  Obrenmritch.  The  present  prince  is  Mi- 
lan IV.,  crowned  July  2, 1868  :  he  became 
of  age  August  22, 1872.  The  extent  of  ter- 
ritory is  17.014  square  miles,  and  popula- 
tion 1,210,346.  It  formerly  paid  a  tribute 
to  Turkey  of  $17, 000. 

Ten  miles  below  Belgrade  is  situated 
the  town  of 

Pancsova,  a  famous  pig  depot,  the  land- 
ed nobles  of  this  section  being  great  pig 


Ziijeuntrberg  are  the  remains  of  the  castle  dealers.     The  pigs  are  shipped  on  board 
of  the  celebrated   Hungarian  hero,  John  floating  sties  and  towed  to  Vienna. 


Hunniades,  who  delivered  Hungary  from 
Turkish  rule,  and  died  here  in  1456.     This 


Basiasch,  the   terminus    of   a    railway 
from  Vienna,  and  a  station  for  the  Danube 


Alt-Afoldora  is  a  military  village,  con- 


is  the  quarantine  station  for  travelers  ar-  steamers,  which  may  be  joined  here  by  the 
riving  from  Turkey,  and  is  a  place  of  con-  traveler  to  the  East  in  17  hours  from  Vien- 
siderable  trade.  Steamers  leave  weekly  •  na  (express  from  Vienna  to  Temesvar) ; 
to  make  the  ascent  of  the  River  Save  as  fare,  first  class,  30  fl.  6  kr. ;  second  class, 
far  as  Sissek.  23  fl.  22  kr. 

Belgrade,  the  capital  of  Servia,  contains 
30,000  inhabitants,  including  the  garrison. 

Hotel,  D'.e  Krone.  This  is  one  of  the  neetad  with  Xeu-Moldava  (a  distance  of  live 
strongest  fortresses  on  the  river,  and  the  miles),  where  there  are  copper-mines, 
key  to  the  Lower  Danube.  It  is  the  seat  Passing  the  rapids  of  the  river,  and 
of  a  Greek  and  Catholic  archbishop.  Most  through  a  narrow  defile,  where  the  river 
of  its  monuments  are  in  ruins.  It  contains  loses  three  quarters  of  its  ordinary  width, 
the  prince's  palace,  and  numerous  churches  the  picturesque  castle  of  Columbacz,  where 
and  mosques.  It  has  a  large  commerce,  robber-knights  made  their  stronghold,  is 
mostly  in  silk,  cotton,  and  leather.  Bel-  passed.  It  is  said  that  this  castle  was  at 
grade  has  been  taken  and  retaken  several  one  time  the  prison  of  the  Empress  Helena, 
times.  In  1521  it  was  taken  by  Soliman  It  completely  commanded  the  passage  of 
II. :  in  ItjS-S  by  the  Duke  of  Baviese  for  j  the  river.  One  of  the  caves,  entered  from 
Austria  ;  in  1690  again  taken  by  the  Turks  ;  the  cliff  facing  the  river,  is  said  to  be  that 
and  in  1717  by  Prince  Eugene.  The  year  ]  in  which  St.  (n-orge  killed  the  dragon 
following,  by  the  Treaty  of  Passarowitz,  it|  (there  are  about  ten  other  caves  that  claim 
was  given  to  Austria,  and  lost  by  them  in  that  honor).  This  is  called  the  Care  n  of 
1739.  In  1789  it  was  taken  by  London,  l',,l>iiitbir:.  and  at  certain  periods  sends  out 
but  was  restored  to  Turkey  in  17'.tl.  It  rlouds  of  gnats,  which  are  most  injurious 
was  captured  by  Czerni  George,  who  com-  ]  to  the  cattle  in  the  vicinity,  covering  a 
manded  the  Servian  insurrection  in  IMH).  space  of  forty  square  miles ;  they  only 
and  retaken  by  the  Turks  in  1813.  Since  ,  make  their  appearance  during  the  hottest 

737 


SKELA-GLADOVA. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


VARNA. 


months,  and  their  bite  is  so  serious  that 
horses  and  cattle  often  die  in  consequence. 

Near  Orsora,  a  military  village,  is  the 
Austrian  custom-house  fortravelers  coining 
up  the  river,  whose  baggage  is  searched, 
principally  for  tobacco  and  playing-cards. 

The  Baths  of  Mehadia  are  twelve  miles 
distant  from  Orsova  ;  they  are  remarkably 
efficacious  in  cases  of  gout. 

Passing  the  fortress  of  Xeu  -  Orsova, 
which  is  situated  on  an  island,  and  over 
the  Iron  Gate,  a  rocky  impediment  in  the 
river  which  necessitates  the  use  of  small 
steamers  when  the  water  is  low,  the  Ser- 
vian village  of  Kladosnitza  is  reached. 
Here  the  Servian  steamers  stop  to  receive 
passengers. 

At  Skela-Gladova,  immediately  opposite, 
the  steamers  of  the  Danube  Company 
stop. 

Sozoreny,  on  the  left  bank,  exhibits 
signs  of  the  Romans  in  a  tower  and  wall ; 
while  a  short  distance  below  are  the  re- 
mains of  Trajan's  Bri/lge,  which  here 
crossed  the  Danube  on  twenty  piers,  built 
of  pebbles  and  cement,  and  faced  with 
brick ;  some  of  the  piers  are  visible,  as 
well  as  the  abutments  and  towers.  It 
was  erected  in  A.D.  103,  by  the  same  ar- 
chitect who  constructed  Trajan's  Column 
at  Rome.  The  piers  having  stood  the 
wear  of  so  many  centuries  of  winters  is 
accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the  river's 
ice  is  ground  to  snow  by  its  action  on  the 
rocks  of  the  Iron  Gate  above. 

Kalafat,  on  the  left,  is  a  village  of  huts, 
and  is  noted  for  the  battle  fought  there 
between  the  Russians  and  Turks  in  1853. 
The  Turks  had  crossed  from  Widdin  on 
the  right  bank,  and  fortified  the  island  in 
the  river,  as  well  as  the  hills  behind  Kala- 
fat. The  Russians  tried  to  dislodge  them, 
but  were  completely  defeated,  with  a  loss 
of  2000  men. 

Opposite,  on  the  right  side,  is  Widdin, 
the  strongest  Bulgarian  town  on  the  river, 
containing  22,000  inhabitants,  and  fortified 
with  300  pieces  of  artillery.  It  is  the  see 
of  a  Greek  archbishop. 

Passing  Rakova  on  the  right,  where 
may  be  seen  a  castle  and  remains  of  Ro- 
man baths, 

Nicopoli  is  reached.     It  contains  16,000 

inhabitants,  and  is  situated  at  the  junction 

of  the  Aluta  and  Danube.     It  was  founded 

by  Trajan,  after  his   victories   in  Dacia 

738 


(Wallachia).  It  was  taken  in  1370  by  the 
Sultan  Bajazet;  and  in  1396  the  army  of 
Sigisimind,  king  of  Hungary,  with  numer- 
ous French  nobles,  commanded  by  Philippe 
d'Artois,  constable  of  France,  and  Jean 
Sans  Peur,  was  completely  cut  to  pieces  in 
its  attempt  to  retake  the  place. 

At  Turna-Mogorello  there  are  extensive 
warehouses  belonging  to  the  Steamship 
Company. 

On  the  Bulgarian  shore  is  Sistova,  a 
town  of  22.000  inhabitants.  A  treaty  of 
peace  was  concluded  here  in  1791  between 
Turkey  and  Austria. 

Rustchuk,  a  well -fortified  town,  with 
40,000  inhabitants.  It  was  taken  by  the 
Russians  in  1812  and  in  1828,  and  was 
then  dismantled.  It  is  the  seat  of  a 
Greek  bishop,  and  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant towns  in  the  province  of  Bulga- 
ria. Its  fortifications  command  the  river, 
which  is  here  three  miles  wide.  Oppo- 
site, about  three  miles  from  the  shore,  is 
the  town  of  Giurgevo,  containing  20,000  in- 
habitants. 

Travelers  here  take  the  railway  to  Var- 
na, a  distance  of  140  miles.  Time.  7  h. 
29m. 

Varna  is  situated  on  the  Black  Sea,  120 
miles  northwest  from  the  Bosphorus.  It 
contains  21,000  inhabitants— 9000  Greeks, 
10,000  Turks,  and  2000  Armenians,  Jews, 
etc.  There  are  four  Greek  churches,  and 
a  cathedral  with  a  metropolitan  bishop. 
There  are  numerous  Turkish  mosques 
covered  with  minarets.  The  only  good 
hotel  is  called  the  English  Hotel. 

The  Museum  contains  some  valuable 
coins  of  Philip  of  Macedon,  also  of  the  By- 
zantine time  and  style.  There  are  two 
Greek  monasteries  —  St.  Constantino  and 
St.  Demetrius. 

Outside  the  walls  are  English,  French, 
and  Greek  cemeteries. 

The  country  around  produces  some  forty 
specimens  of  fine  grapes,  in  addition  to 
capital  fruits. 

The  principal  exports  are  wheat,  Indian 
corn,  and  barley,  which  are  shipped  to 
Constantinople,  and  by  rail  to  Rustchuk. 

The  harbor  has  been  much  improved  of 
late,  and  steamers  now  find  little  difficult}' 
in  getting  the  protection  they  have  so  long 
needed. 

Consuls  from  all  countries,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  United  States,  reside  here. 


STUHLWEISSENBURG. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


RAAB» 


Steamers  to  Constantinople  in  16  hours. 
Constantinople.     See  Index. 


ROUTE  No.  195. 

Pesth  to  Prar/erhof,  via  llu'jlar  and  the 
Plattensfe.  Time,  10  h.  35  m. ;  fare,  first 
class,  15  fl.  84  kr. ;  second  class,  11  fl. 
88  kr.  Trains  daily.  This  route  contains 
nothing  special  to  be  seen. 

Stuhliceissenburg.  Hotel,  Schlenck.  This 
was  the  Alba  Regalis  of  the  Romans ;  it 
contains  5000  inhabitants.  It  is  situated 
jn  the  centre  of  a  bog,  with  only  the  arch- 
bishop's palace  to  be  seen. 

There  is  a  line  from  here  direct  to  Vi- 
enna, another  to  Steinamanger. 

The  line  runs  through  a  level  plain  past 
the  Plattensee,  Sio  Fok,  Boglar,  Kcathely  to 
Kdnisa,  where  there  is  a  line  direct  to 
Vienna,  thence  to  Pragerhnf.  See  Route 
No.  190. 


ROUTE  No.  196. 

Vienna  to  Fiume,  via  Steinamanger, 
Agram,  and  Karlstadt  (Agram  to  Stein- 
brtick), 

From  Vienna  to  Neustadt,  see  Route  No. 
190. 

From  Neustadt  to  Kanisa.  Tune,  6  h. 
50  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  9  fl.  54  kr. ;  second 
class,  7  fl.  16  kr. 

In  1  h.  45  m.  the  station  Oedenburg  is 
reached,  three  miles  to  the  south  of  which 
is  Frohsdorf,  the  residence  of  the  Comte 
de  Chambord  (Henry  V.  of  France). 

Steinamanger,  a  town  of  4000  inhab- 
itants. It  contains  some  old  Roman  re- 


mains. The  Cathedrals  the  only  building 
of  importance.  Here  Septimus  Severus 
was  chosen  Emperor. 

Kanisa.     See  Route  No.  195. 

Affrnm  (hotel,  Pruckner),  a  town  of 
17,500  inhabitants,  the  capital  of  the  prov- 
ince of  Croatia.  It  contains  the  Palace  of 
the  Ban  (representatives  of  the  Estates),  the 
Law  College,  Museum,  and  the  Palace  of  the 
Archbishop.  Agram  was  almost  destroyed 
in  1881,  a  succession  of  earthquakes  during 
the  spring  and  summer  causing  great  loss 
of  life  and  immense  destruction  of  property. 

Two  miles  from  the  town  is  a  fine  nat- 
ural park  called  Maximal- . 

Karlstadt  (hotel,  Stadt  Agram),  a  town 
of  6500  inhabitants.  It  is  strongly  fortified, 
with  native  troops,  and  the  fortifications 
have  lately  been  much  improved.  It  is 
naturally  a  place  of  considerable  commer- 
cial importance  on  account  of  its  situation 
on  the  River  Kulpa,  and  on  the  high-road 
to  Fiume. 


ROUTE  No.  197. 

Vienna  to  Pesth,  via  Bruck,  Raab,  and 
Siuhlweissenburg.  Time  to  Stuhlweissen- 
burg,  9  hours  ;  fare,  first  class,  10  fl.  52  kr.; 
second  class,  8  fl.  64  kr. 

From  Stuhlweisstnburg  to  Pe*<A,see  Route 
No.  195. 

Simmering,  the  principal  race-ground, 
and  the  former  place  of  reception  for  the 
Turkish  embassadors. 

Bruck  station,  a  strong  fortress  in  olden 
times.  The  fortifications  have  been  turned 
into  pleasure  gardens. 

Raab  is  situated  on  a  marshy  plain,  and 
contains  18,000  inhabitants;  nothing  of 
importance  to  be  seen.  Stuhliceissenburg, 
see  Route  No.  195. 


739 


KORMOND. 


[AUSTRIA.] 


GLEICHENBERG. 


ROL7TE  No.  198. 


Pesth  to  Gratz,  via  Stuh'weissenburff,  Kor- 
mond,  Steinamaiiffer,  and  Felbach.  Time, 
9  hours ;  fare,  first  class,  17  fl.  71  kr.  ; 
second  class,  13  fl.  28  kr. 

From  Pesth  to  Stuhltceissenburg,  see  Route 
No.  195. 

Steinamanfjer.     See  Route  No.  196. 

Xormond,  a  town  of  3000  inhabitants, 
situated  on  the  River  Raab.  It  belongs  to 
Prince  Batthyanyi,  who  has  here  a  hand- 
some country-house.  Nothing  of  impor- 
tance to  interest  the  traveler. 

Pel  Ibach  station. — This  is  a  small  town 
740 


containing  1200  inhabitants.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  walls  and  turrets. 

At  one  hour's  distance  are  situated  the 
Batlis  of  Gltichenberr;.  Omnibus,  60  kr. 
They  are  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley, 
where  there  are  numerous  promenades. 

On  the  summit  of  a  high  rock  is  situated 
the  old  Castle  of  G/eichenbery ;  and  two 
hours  to  the  north  the  ancient  stronghold 
of  Reigersburg,  situated  on  a  rocky  summit 
400  feet  above  the  River  Raab.  It  if. 
i  reached  by  a  winding  road  cut  in  the  solid 
rock.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  de- 
lightful. 

Grata.    See  Route  No.  190. 


ITALY. 

DIFFERENT  ROUTES  AND  PASSES  INTO  ITALY,  WITH  TIME  AND 

EXPENSE. 


From  Paris  to  Genoa  by  Lyons,  Mar- 
seilles, and  Nice. — Express  train  to  Lyons, 
!)  hours  ;  fare,  57  fr.  35  c.  From  Lyons  to 
Marseilles,  time  Gjj-  hours  ,•  fare,  39  fr.  30  c. 
From  Marseilles  to  Nice ;  time,  5  h.  29  m. ; 
fare,  27  fr.  70  c.  The  railway  is  finished 
from  Nice  to  Genoa,  which  will  probablj 
deprive  many  travelers  of  the  delightful 
ride  by  carriage  or  diligence  over  the 
Cornice  Road.  Be  particular,  in  taking 
your  seats  in  the  train,  to  ascertain  in 
which  direction  it  is  going,  and  take  the 
right-hand  seats  ;  you  will  thus  be  on  the 
Mediterranean  side  all  the  distance.  Time 
from  Nice  to  Genoa,  6  h.  30  m. ;  fare,  first 
class,  "21  fr. 

After  leaving  Paris,  the  first  station  of 
importance  is  Cfiarenton,  a  village  of  1900 
inhabitants,  containing  a  lunatic  asylum 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Marnc.  On  the 
opposite  bank  is  the  town  of  Alfort,  which 
possesses  the  finest  veterinary  college  in 
France.  The  forts  of  Ivry  and  Charenton 
here  command  the  course  of  the  Seine,  one 
on  each  bank.  Before  reaching  Brunoy 
station  the  train  passes  over  a  viaduct  of 
nine  arches,  which  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  valley  of  the  Yores  River.  After 
leaving  Brunoy,  a  second  viaduct  of  28 
arches  is  passed. 

Melun  (Hotel  de  France),  a  town  of 
10,000  inhabitants,  is  the  chef-lieu  of  the 
Department  of  Seine-et-Marne.  It  was 
known  to  the  Romans  in  the  time  of  Caesar 
as  Melodunum. 

Station  of  Fontainebleau  (see  Index). 

TJunw-nj  station,  renowned  for  its  lus- 
cious grapes  (Chasselas  de  Fontainebleau). 
Near  Moret  St.  Mammcs  station  a  viaduct 
of  30  arches  crosses  the  valley  of  the  river 
Loing. 

Munlvrrnu  station. — {Hotel  Grand  Mo- 
narque.)  Population,  5465.  This  town  oc- 
cupies a  picturesque  and  advantageous  sit- 
uation at  the  confluence  of  the  Seine  and 


Yonne.  Here  the  Duke  of  Burgundy,  Jean 
sans  Peur,  was  murdered  in  1419,  and  here 
Napoleon  gained  his  last  victory  over  the 
Allies  and  the  Prince  of  Wiirtemberg  in 
1814. 

Sens  (Hotel  de  FEau),  a  town  of  12,000 
inhabitants,  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Se- 
nones.  The  Cathedral  of  St.  Etienne  is  a 
remarkable  edifice  of  the  12th  century. 

Tonnerre. — (Hott  I  Lion  d'Or.)  Popula- 
tion, 5000.  The  hospital  in  this  town  was 
endowed  by  Marguerite  de  Bourgogne, 
queen  of  Sicily.  Here  is  buried  the  Mar- 
quis de  Louvois,  minister  of  war  in  the 
time  of  Louis  XIV.  The  monument  is  by 
Girardin. 

Tanlay  possesses  one  of  the  finest  cha- 
teaux in  Burgundy.  It  was  founded  by 
Coligny  d'Andelot,  brother  of  Admiral  Co- 
ligny. 

Montbard  station,  the  birthplace  of  the 
great  naturalist  Buffon,  1707.  The  cha- 
teau in  which  he  lived  still  exists,  and  is 
shown  to  strangers. 

Dijon.     (Se^  Index.) 

On  leaving  Dijon  begins  the  celebrated 
Cote  d'Or,  from  which  the  choicest  Bur- 
gundy wines  are  produced — the  Chamber- 
tin,  Clos  Vougeot,  Nuits,  Beaune,  Volnay, 
Poniard,  Richebourg,  Romane'e,  Tache,  and 
St  George. 

Gevray  station,  Vougeot  station,  Nuits, 
Beaune,  Chagny,  Chalons-sur-8a6ne,  and 
Tournus  station  are  now  passed. 

Mdcon  (see  Index).     Lyons  (see  Index). 

Viinne. — (Hotels,  Ombryand  Table  fionde.) 
Population,  19,678.  This  town,  one  of  the 
oldest  in  France,  is  situated  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Rhone.  It  was  known  to  the 
Romans  in  the  time  of  Csesar,  and  several 
interesting  monuments  of  its  former  great- 
ness are  still  to  be  seen  ;  among  them  the 
Temple  of  Augustus,  the  Cathedral  of  St. 
Maurice,  and  the  Tower  of  St.  Andre  le 
Bas.  Outside  the  town  is  the  Roman  ob- 
741 


RODTF.S. 


[ITALY.] 


ROUTES. 


elisk  or  Plan  de  1'Aiguille.  On  Mount 
Pipet  are  some  insignificant  remains  of  a 
Roman  theatre. 

Valence.— (Hotel  Lion  d'Or,  Hotel  Tete 
d'Or.)  Population,  18,720.  Valence  is  the 
chef-lieu  of  the  Department  of  the  Drome. 
It  was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  duchy 
of  Valentinois.  The  only  sights  worth 
seeing  are  the  Cathedral,  and,  near  it,  an 
antiquated  house  called  le  Pendentif,  erect- 
ed in  1548.  The  arms  of  the  Mistral  fam- 
ily may  still  be  seen  on  it.  A  fine  view 
may  be  had  from  the  Castle  of  Crussol. 

Station  Montelimart,  noted  for  silk-cult- 
ure since  the  campaign  of  Charles  VIII. 
against  Italy,  1494.  The  ancient  castle  of 
the  celebrated  Monteil  d'Adhemar  family 
may  still  be  seen. 

Orange  (Hot  I  des  Princes,  Hotel  Grif- 
fon d'Or)  was  the  ancient  Aransio  of  the 
Romans,  and  is  interesting  for  its  ruins. 
A  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  town  may  be 
seen  the  Triumphal  Arch.  It  is  remarka- 
bly well  preserved,  and  appears  to  have 
been  erected  in  the  2d  century.  At  the 
other  end  of  the  town  stands  the  Roman 
theatre.  It  is  121  feet  in  height,  334  feet 
in  length,  and  its  walls  are  13  feet  thick. 

Avignon.     (See  Index.) 

Tarascon. — -(Hotel  des  Empereurs.")  The 
Church  of  St.  Martha  and  the  castle  for- 
merly belonging  to  King  Rene  of  Anjou 
are  the  only  objects  worthy  of  the  travel- 
er's attention. 

Aries.     (See  Index.) 

Near  the  station  St.  Chamas  the  railway 
skirts  the  margin  of  the  Etang  dc  Berre, 
an  inland  lake  connected  with  the  sea  by 
a  canal  at  Boue.  Rognac  station. 

Marseilles.  (See  Index.) 
•  Frejus  (Hotel  du  Midi)  contains  a  num- 
ber of  Roman  antiquities,  among  them  the 
celebrated  Forum  Julii,  founded  by  Julius 
Csesar,  an  amphitheatre,  and  a  Roman  arch 
called  the  Porte  Doree.  This  town  is  the 
birthplace  of  the  Roman  general  Julius 
Agricola. 

Station  St.  Raphael.  Here  Napoleon 
landed  on  his  return  from  Egypt  in  1799, 
and  here  too,  after  his  abdication,  he  em- 
barked for  Elba  in  1814. 

Cannes.     (See  Index.) 

Antibes. — (H6t<  I  de  France.)   A  flourish- 
ing   seaport    town,  finely  situated   on   a 
promontory,  and  commanding  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  sea,  the  Bay  of  Nice,  and  the 
742 


Maritime  Alps.  A  pier  constructed  by 
Vauban  connects  it  with  some  islands  in 
the  bay. 

Nice.     (See  Index.) 

The  winter  of  1871-72  was  noted  for  the 
completion  of  numerous  enterprises,  the 
Mont  Cenis  Tunnel  and  the  railway  from 
Nice  to  Genoa  being  the  most  prominent ; 
and  as  all  travelers  have  been  enchanted 
who  have  passed  over  the  Cornice  Road  in 
carriages,  what  will  they  be  now  that  their 
delight  is  concentrated  from  three  days  to 
six  or  seven  hours  !  This  is  most  decidedly 
the  loveliest  route  to  Italy.  For  Mentone, 
see  Index. 

Turbia,  the  first  village  of  importance,  is 
celebrated  for  the  Tropjea  August!,  \vhidi 
consist  of  a  mass  of  blocks  and  masonry 
surmounted  by  a  Gothic  tower.  After 
leaving  Turbia  a  fine  view  opens,  disclos- 
ing Mentone  and  the  Mediterranean.  For 
descriptions  of  Monaco  and  Mentone,  see 
Index. 

Ventimifflia  (Hotel  Croce  di  Malta),  the 
Italian  frontier  fortress,  is  beautiful!}'  sit- 
uated on  the  brow  of  a  hill.  From  its 
important  military  position  its  possession 
was  much  contested  in  the  Middle  Ages 
by  the  Genoese. 

Bordighera. — (Hotel  Bonlighera.')  The 
coast  around  this  village  is  especially  noted 
for  its  cultivation  of  palm-trees,  which  are 
sent  to  Rome  annually  for  the  decoration 
of  the  churches  there  on  Palm  Sunday. 

St.  Remo  (Hotel  de  Londrei)  is  a  healthy 
and  flourishing  town  of  11,000  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  situated  on  the  slope  of  a 
hill  whose  sides  are  covered  with  vines, 
olives,  and  fruit-trees,  and  completely  pro- 
tected from  the  northern  winds.  St.  Remo 
possesses  a  curious  Gothic  church.  After 
leaving  St.  Remo,  the  uninteresting  vil- 
lages of  Saint  Laurent,  San  Stephano,  and 
Riva  are  passed. 

Porto  Maurizio  (Hotel  du  Commerce)  is 
one  of  the  most  important  towns  of  the 
Riviera.  It  is  a  naval  station,  and  pos- 
sesses a  harbor.  Its  exports  are  olive-oil 
and  other  agricultural  produce.  On  aj>- 
proaching  Oneglia  a  fine  suspension  bridge 
is  crossed. 

Oneglia  (Hotel  Victoria},  a  small  sea- 
port town  with  6400  inhabitants.  The  best 
olive-oil  is  produced  here.  Passing  Diano 
Marino  and  Cervo,  picturesquely  situated, 
we  reach  the  small  town  of 


IJorTKS. 


[ITALY.] 


KOUTE& 


Alassio.— (Hotel  de  la  Belle  Itidie.) 
From  this  point  the  island  of  Qallinaria 
may  lie  seen,  so  called  by  the  Romans 
from  the  wild-fowl  which  they  found  there. 

Albenga,  the  ancient  Roman  Albigau- 
num.  The  ruins  of  the  Ponte  Longo  may 
be  seen  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
town. 

Passing  Cereate,  Borghetto  di  Santo 
Spirito,  Loano,  and  Pietra,  the  town  of 
Finale  Marina  is  reached.  Hotel  de  Lon- 
dref,  Hotel  de  Venise.  The  cathedral  and 
ruins  of  Castello  Gavonc  deserve  a  visit. 
After  leaving  Variyotk,  the  road  passes 
through  the  tunnel  or  gallery  of  the  Capo 
di  Noli. 

Noli,  a  small  town  of  2000  inhabitants, 
is  very  well  built,  and  defended  by  a 
castle. 

Savona  (Grand  Hotel  Royal,  Hotel  Su- 
isse),  after  Nice  and  Genoa,  the  most  impor- 
tant town,  on  the  Riviera,  charmingly  sit- 
uated amid  lemon  and  orange  gardens. 
Population,  25,000.  Under  Napoleon  I. 
it  was  the  capital  of  the  Department  Mon- 
tenotte.  The  cathedral  contains  several 
fine  paintings ;  among  them  the  Annuncia- 
tion by  Albani,  the  Scourging  of  Christ  by 
Cambrasi,  and  a  Virgin  and  Child  by  Lo- 
dovico  Urea.  In  the  Church  of  the  Do- 
minicans is  a  fine  painting  by  Diirer,  an 
Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  also  the  Nativity, 
by  Antonio  Lemini.  The  poet  Chiabrera 
was  a  native  of  this  town.  To  him  the 
theatre  was  dedicated  in  1858. 

Passing  Varazze  and  Cogoleto,  the  lat- 
ter believed  by  some  to  have  been  the 
birthplace  of  Columbus,  we  come  to  Vol- 
tri. 

Voltri,  a  town  of  9000  inhabitants,  is 
noted  for  its  paper  and  cloth  manufactures. 
A  great  many  richly  adorned  churches  are 
here  to  be  seen  ;  also  a  number  of  villas, 
among  them  that  of  the  Marquis  di  Brig- 
noli  Sale. 

Pegli.  This  is  probably  the  most  lovely 
spot  on  the  entire  Riviera.  In  addition  to 
the  grounds  of  the  Villa  Pallavicini,  prob- 
ably the  most  exquisite  in  Europe,  there 
are  also  the  villas  Doria  and  Grimaldi. 
The  latter  has  a  small  botanic  garden  at- 
tached. The  climate  is  lovely  and  the  sur- 
roundings arc  superb.  There  is  a  good 
hotel  here. 

For  a  description  of  the  Villa  Pallavi- 
cini, see  excursions  from  Genoa. 


Sestri  a  Ponente  is  noted  for  its  manufac- 
tories. Population,  6000.  In  the  Church 
of  the  Assumption  are  paintings  by  Sarza- 
no  and  Carlone. 

Cnrnigliano.  Population,  3300.  Print- 
ed calicoes  are  extensively  manufactured 
here.  The  Palazzo  Serra  is  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  Coronata.  The  bridge  over 
the  Polcivera,  which  is  here  passed,  was 
built  by  the  Durazzo  family. 

San  Pierdarena  is  properly  a  suburb  of 
Genoa.  The  palaces  of  Spinola  and  Saiili 
are  well  worth  a  visit.  In  the  former  are 
frescoes  by  Carlone.  The  principal  church 
contains  a  Flight  into  Egypt  by  Cambrasi, 
and  frescoes  by  Sarzano. 

From  Paris  to  Turin.  Time,  21  h.  29  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  100  fr.  20  c. 


From  Paris  the  railway  proceeds  as  far 
as  MM  con  on  the  Lyons  line.  The  first 
place  of  importance,  after  leaving  MAcon, 
is  Bourg  (Hotel  de  V Europ<<).  Bourg  is  the 
chef-lieu  of  the  Departementde  1'Ain.  The 
only  object  of  interest  is  the  Church  of 
Notre  Dame  de  Brou,  erected  in  the  16th 
century  by  Margaret  of  Austria,  regent 
743 


ROUTES. 


[ITALY.] 


ROUTES. 


of  the  Netherlands.  It  contains  monuments 
of  herself,  her  husband,  the  Duke  of  Savoy, 
and  her  mother-in-law,  Margaret  of  Bour- 
bon. Her  motto,  "  Fortune  infortune  forte 
une,"  may  be  seen  in  various  parts  of  the 
church.  The  architect  was  Muistre  Loys 
Van  Boglem,  the  sculptor  Maistre  Conrad. 

Amberitu,  a  little  town  situated  on  the 
Albarine,  is  the  junction  for  Lyons.  Sta- 
tion Culoz,  the  junction  of  the  Geneva  line. 
The  journey  from  Geneva  to  Culoz  may  be 
performed  in  2i  hours. 

Aix-les-Bains.  Principal  hotel,  and  well 
managed,  is  the  Grand  ll<'>t?l  d'Aix.  Pop- 
ulation 4000.  This  celebrated  watering- 
place  was  known  to  the  Romans  as  Agnse 
Gratinae.  (See  Index.) 

There  is  a  branch  line  from  Aix-les-Bains 
to  Annecy.  Time,  1|  hrs. ;  fare,  4  f.  50  c. 

Cham'.ery.      (Sea  Index.) 

Route  de  Grenoble  is  the  junction  for 
the  branch  line  to  Grenoble,  which  follows 
the  valley  of  the  Isere. 

MontmeUan. — (Hotel  das  \  ~<>yar/<  ?</«.)  The 
Castle  of  Montmclian  was  lout;  the  bul- 
wark of  Savoy  against  France.  It  was 
nobly  defended  by  Geoffrey  Bens  de  Ca- 
vour  against  Louis  XIII.,  but  subsequent- 
ly destroyed  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1705.  A 
very  good  white  wine  is  produced  here. 
In  crossing  the  bridge  over  the  Isi-re  a  fine 
view  may  be  obtained  of  Mont  Blanc,  the 
only  point  on  this  route  from  which  it  may 
be  seen.  The  next  station  is  St.  Pierre 
d'Albigny. 

Aignebelle. — (Hotel  Posted)  Most  of  the 
inhabitants  here  are  afflicted  with  the  goi- 
tre, the  situation  of  Aignebelle  being  re- 
markably unhealthy  on  account  of  the 
marshes.  The  Castle  La  Charbonniere 
was  the  birthplace  of  several  of  the  counts 
of  Savoy.  Crossing  the  River  Arc,  we 
come  to  the  stations  of  La  C/iambre  St. 
Ju/ien,  where  excellent  wine  is  produced, 
and  St.  Jean  de  Maunnnc  (ll<'.t<l  d*'  I' Eu- 
rope). Population  3000.  The  Cathedral 
here  is  the  only  object  worth  tlie  traveler's 
attention. 

St.  Michel. — (Hotel  de  la  Paste,  railway 
restaurant.) 

The  need  of  an  unbroken  railway  be- 
tween France  and  Italy  has  long  been 
strikingly  obvious,  and  has  at  length  been 
supplied  by  the  opening  of  the  Mont  Cenis 
Tunnel,  by  means  of  which  the  journey 
744 


from  Paris  to  Turin  is  at  present  made  in 
22  hours,  but  which  is  expected  eventually 
to  require  but  1G.  The  construction  of 
this  tunnel,  the  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal, 
j  and  of  the  Pacific  Railroad,  may  be  regard- 
ed as  the  three  great  mechanical  and  com- 
mercial events  of  the  nineteenth  century. 
The  traveler  arriving  by  rail  from  Paris, 
and  bound  for  Italy,  luis  hitherto  proceed- 
'  ed  from  St.  Michel  over  the  mountain, 
passing  Modane,  Lans-le-Bourg,  and  the 
Mont  Cenis  Hospice,  and,  descending  by 
Molaretto,  has  rejoined  the  railroad  at  (Ji- 
aglione.  This  journey  over  the  mountains 
required  5  or  6  hours,  and,  although  the 
traveler  was  partially  repaid  by  the  sub- 
lime scenery  of  the  Pass,  the  safety  and 
convenience  of  the  railroad  through  the 
tunnel  was  wanting.  Although  the  tun- 
nel is  named  from  the  Mont  Cenis,  the 
track  selected  is  in  reality  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  mountain.  Starting  on  the 
French  side  from  a  point  above  the  village 
of  Fourneaux,  3904  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  it  cuts  the  mountain  between  the 
Col  di>  Frejus  and  the  Col  dc  la  Rone,  ris- 
ing gradually  to  an  elevation  of  4377  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  then  sloping  down  to 
the  opening  on  the  Italian  side  at  Bardon- 
neche,  4334  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The 
tunnel  is  very  well  lighted,  and  the  air 
•within  is  pure  and  fresh.  The  boring  of 
the  tunnel  was  attended  by  most  serious 
engineering  difficulties,  which  were  over- 
come by  the  energy  and  ability  of  Som- 
meiller,  who  conducted  this  arduous  un- 
dertaking. Two  thousand  men  were  con- 
stantly emplo3'ed,  the  work  performed  be- 
ing at  first  half  a  yard  per  day,  which  aft- 
erward increased  to  more  than  10  feet  per 
day.  Begun  in  1857,  the  whole  mountain 
mass,  a  thickness  of  13,256  yards,  was 
pierced  from  end  to  end  at  the  close  of  the 
year  1870. 

The  totnl  expenses  of  the  tunnel  amount- 
ed to  e  13.01 10, 000,  $4,000,000  of  which  was 
payable  by  Italy,  according  to  an  agree- 
ment made  between  that  country  and 
Franco  in  I860.  France  promised  to  pay 
Italy  $3.800,000  if  the  work  was  accom- 
plished within  20  years,  dating  from  1862; 
and,  in  case  less  time  was  required,  she 
bound  herself  to  pay  $100,000  more  for  ev- 
ery year  gained  on  the  stipulated  time. 
She  also  agreed  to  pay  5  per  cent,  interest 
on  the  money  due  for  the  work  as  it  pro- 


ROUTE9.  [ITALY.] 

ceeded  from  year  to  year.  Italy,  stimula- 
ted by  these  terms,  has  finished  construct- 
ing the  tunnel  11  years  before  the  appoint- 
ed time,  and  has  thus  gained  $1,100,000 
from  France. 

Su.ui. — (Ht'it'l  de  Savoie,  Hotel  de  France.} 
Population  3000.  Susa  is  a  very  ancient 
town,  known  to  the  Romans  as  Segusium. 
The  garden  of  the  governor  contains  a  tri- 
umphal arch  of  the  Corinthian  order  48  feet 
high,  40  feet  wide,  and  25  feet  in  depth, 
erected  in  honor  of  Augustus,  8  B.C.,  by 
the  order  of  the  Prefect  Cottius,  son  of 
King  Dounus. 

Turin  (see  Index). 

From  Lausanne  to  Arona  on  the  Layo 
Mdt/yiort,  over  the  Simplm. — Railway  from 
Lausanne  to  Sion  4i  hours.  Fare  10  f.GO  c. 
From  Sion,  over  the  Simplon  in  diligence, 
which  leaves  daily.  111  hours.  Fare  in  the 
coupe  to  Domo  d'Ossola,  35  f.  30  c.  From 
Domo  d'Ossola,  35  f.  30  c.  From  Domo 
<!'<  Ksola  to  Arona,  8  f. 

From  Lausanne  (Ouchy)  to  Villeneuve 
or  Bouveret.  it  is  preferable  for  travelers 
to  take  the  steamer.  Travelers  stopping 
at  Lausanne  may  reach  Ouchy  in  £  hour 
by  omnibus.  The  most  beautiful  part  of 
Lake  Geneva  is  seen  on  this  trip. 

Passing  the  villages  of  Clarens,Chernex, 
and  Vernex,  we  come  to  Montreux,  a  favor- 
ite winter  residence  of  invalids  on  account 
of  the  mildness  of  the  climate.  The  hotels 
and  pensions  in  the  vicinity  are  numerous. 
Hotel  and  Pension  Du  Cygne  the  best. 

About  If  miles  from  Montreux  stands 
the  Castle  of  Chillon,  on  a  rock  in  the  lake 
connected  with  the  bank  by  a  wooden 
bridge.  It  is  shown  daily  to  strangers,  and 
is  well  worth  a  visit.  For  description  of 
castle,  see  Index. 

Villeneuve  (Hotel  de  Vitte)  is  an  an- 
cient town  of  some  1500  inhabitants,  situ- 
ated at  the  mouth  of  the  Rhone.  Near 
Villeneuve  lies  the  island  mentioned  by 
Byron  in  the  Prisoner  of  Chillon.  Near 
Villeneuve  is  the  Hotel  Byron,  beautifully 
situated  on  an  eminence  overlooking  the 
lake.  Travelers  wishing  to  make  any  stay 
here  will  find  it  an  excellent  hotel  in  ev- 
ery respect.  At  Bonveret  travelers  take 
the  cars  for  Sion.  Passing  the  stations 
Aigle,  Ollon,  and  St.  Triphon,  we  come  to 
the  village  Bex,  celebrated  since  the  16th 
ivntury  for  its  salt  mines  and  works.  They 
urc  situated  about  two  miles  from  Bex,  in 


ROUTE& 


!  the  valley  of  La  Gryonnc.  About  half  a 
day  is  required  for  this  excursion,  which 
is  a  very  interesting  one. 

St.  Maurice  (Jldtel  de  la  Dent  du  Midi) 
|  is  an  old  town  of  about  1070  inhabitants. 
The  abbey  founded  by  the  Emperor  Sigis- 
;  mund  in  515,  in  honor  of  St.  Maurice,  con- 
tains some  very  interesting  works  of  art, 
among  thorn  a  (Jivrian  ;:g.iti;  cameo  cup,  a 
chalice  given  by  Bertha,  queen  of  Burgun 
dy,and  an  ampaulc  given  by  Charlemagne. 

Martigny  {Hotel  de  la  Tour).  (See  In- 
dex.) 

A  visit  by  all  means  should  be  paid  to 
the  Gorge  de  Trient,  and  the  Pissevache, 
or  the  waterfall  of  the  Sallenche. 

Sion.     (See  Index.) 

Sierre  (Hotel  and  Pension  Baur),  a  small 
but  prettily  situated  town,  with  some  ruins 
in  the  vicinity.  The  post-road,  after  cross- 
ing the  Rhone,  passes  the  valley  of  Tenk 
or  Loeche,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Gorge  of  the  Dala.  Pfynn  forms  the 
boundary  between  the  French  and  Ger- 
man languages. 

Tour  tertutgne.— (Hotel  1'oste,  Hotel  So- 
kil.)  Near  the  town  is  a  fine  cascade 
well  worth  a  visit. 

Vispach  (Hotel  Soleil),  a  miserable  vil- 
lage, situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Visp 
with  the  Rhone.  In  1855  it  was  seriously 
injured  by  an  earthquake,  which  left  only 
seven  houses  remaining.  Excursions  may 
be  made  from  here  to  Zermatt  and  Gornu 
Gratt. 

Brieg  (hotels,  Poste,  d'Angkterre,  and 
Trois  Couronnts)  is  a  small  town  of  about 
800  inhabitants,  situated  at  the  base  of  the 
Simplon.  The  Simplon  Road  was  com- 
menced by  Napoleon  in  1800,  on  the  Ital- 
ian side,  and  finished  in  1806  on  the  Swiss. 
At  Brieg  the  ascent  of  the  Simplon  com- 
mences. In  2i  hours,  Beresal,  the  third  ref- 
uge, is  reached.  It  consists  of  two  build- 
ings, a  post-house  and  inn.  The  portion 
of  the  road  between  the  fifth  refuge,  Schal- 
bet,  and  the  sixth  refuge,  which  is  the 
summit,  is  the  most  dangerous  in  winter. 
About  three  miles  from  the  summit,  which 
is  6218  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  is 
the  hospice  founded  by  Napoleon,  but  not 
furnished  until  1825.  It  is  a  very  com- 
fortable building,  warmed  by  a  heating  ap- 
paratus, and  occupied  by  monks  of  the  Au- 
gustine order.  To  the  south  may  be  seen 
the  Kant  Glacier. 

745 


ROUTES. 

Simplon. — Here  the  road  leads  through 
the  Ravine  of  Gondo,  one  of  the  most  mag- 
nificent among  the  Alps.  The  Gallery  of 
Gondo,  the  longest  tunnel  of  the  Sini]>lon, 
measures  683  feet  in  length.  Close  to  the 
issue  of  the  gallery  is  the  Fall  of  Fressi- 
none.  Gondo  is  the  last  Swiss  village. 

Issella.  Here  the  Italian  custom-house 
and  passport-office  are  situated. 

Domo  d'Ossola  (Grand  HCtel  de  la  Ville), 
a  small,  uninteresting  town,  fully  Italian 
in  every  respect.  There  is  a  Calvary 
above  the  town  well  worth  a  visit. 

Ornavasso,  noted  for  marble  quarries  in 
its  vicinity.  The  road,  after  passing  the 
lovely  village  of  Fariola,  soon  reaches  the 
southwest  bank  of  the  Lago  Magidore. 
The  Isola  Madre  of  the  Berromean  Islands 
may  be  seen  from  this  point.  The  islands 
are  general!}'  visited  from  Bareno,  the  next 
station. 

Stresa.  Then  Belgirate,  -where  there 
is  a  fine  hotel  —  Hotel  et  Pension  Bdgi- 
rate. 

Arona. — (Alberyo Keale.*)  FromAronato 
Milan  by  Novara,  time  4  hours ;  fare  10  f. 

From  Lucerne  to  Como  aver  the  St.  Go- 
thard. — Steam-boat  from  Lucerne  to  Fliie- 
len  four  times  daily,  in  2J  hours.  Fare  4 
f.  60  c.  From  Fliielen  to  Como,  diligence 
twice  daily,  in  23  hours ;  coupe,  37  f.  80  c. ; 
interior,  31  f.  90  c.  It  is  very  little  more 
expensive  for  parties  to  take  a  carriage, 
which  costs  about  150  f.  for  four  or  five 
persons,  not  including  fees,  which  are  giv- 
en at  each  station.  For  description  of  this 
pass",  see  Index. 

From  Coire  to  Calico  (and  Milan)  over  the 
Splisgen. — Diligence  from  Coire  to  Colico 
twice  daily,  in  16  hours.  Fare  22  f.  50  c. 

Coire  (see  Index).  On  the  road  from 
Coire  to  Reichenau,  which  leads  along  the 
valley  of  the  Rhine,  there  is  little  deserv- 
ing the  traveler's  attention  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  Calanda  Mountain,  and,  at 
at  its  base,  the  village  Felsberg,  partially 
buried  by  a  landslide  in  1850. 

Jieichennii  (Hotel  Adler")  consists  merely 
of  a  few  houses  situated  at  the  junction 
of  the  Vorder  and  Hinter  Rhine.    The  cha- 
teau, the  principal  building  in  the  village, 
formerly  belonging  to  the  Planta  family, 
was,  in  1793,  converted  into  a  college  by  ' 
Burgomaster  Tscharner.    Here  Louis  Phi- 
lippe, under  the  name  of  Chabot,  held  a 
situation  as  teacher  of  French  mathemat-  ' 
7-itJ 


[ITALY.]  ROUTES. 

ics,  and  history  for  eight  months.  At 
Reichenau  the  road  crosses  the  Rhine  and 
Vorder  Rhine,  and  then  enters  the  valley 
of  the  Hinter  Rhine.  The  villages  of  Bo- 
naduz  and  Rhaziins  are  soon  passed,  also 
the  Castle  of  Rhoetzuns  of  the  YL-le  fanir 
ily,  still  inhabited.  This  part  of  the  val. 
ley  of  the  Rhine  is  chiefly  remarkable  for 
the  great  number  of  castles  which  are  tc 
be  seen  in  every  direction,  and  for  the  dif- 
ference in  the  religion  and  language  of 
each  hamlet.  The  Castles  of  Ortenstein, 
Vaspels,  Canooa,  Rietborg.  and  Rcalta  are 
passed  in  rapid  succession  before  reaching 
Thusis.  That  of  Ortenstein  is  probably 
the  best  preserved  in  the  valley,  and  is  still 
occupied  by  the  Travers  family. 

Thusis  (hotels,  Via  Mala  and  Adler),  a 
village  of  700  inhabitants,  picturesquely 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rhine  and 
the  Nolla.  After  leaving  Thusis  the  Nol- 
la  is  crossed  by  a  fine  bridge,  which  aftbrds 
an  interesting  view  of  the  valley  and  peak 
of  Piz  Bevexin.  About  half  a  mile  from 
Thusis  the  Via  Mala  commences — the  most 
sublime  ravine  in  Switzerland.  The  road 
crosses  the  river  three  times.  The  finest 
view  is  obtained  from  the  Middle  Bridge, 
about  a  mile  from  Rougellen. .  The  Via 
Mala  extends  for  a  distance  of  three  miles, 
and  terminates  at  the  Upper  Bridge,  where 
the  road  enters  the  beautiful  Schamser 
Thai. 

Andeer  (H-atel  Krone)  is  the  principal 
village  in  the  valley.  The  inhabitants  are 
Protestants,  and  speak  Romansch.  Soon 
after  leaving  Andeer  the  road  enters  the 
Roffla  Gorge.  The  Averser  Rhine  here 
forms  the  Fall  of  the  Roffla,  which  de- 
scends the  Ferrera  valley  to  the  Hinter 
Rhine. 

Spliigen.  —  This  little  village  holds  an 
important  position,  being  situated  at  the 
junction  of  the  Spliigen  and  Bernardino 
routes.  The  Spliigen  Road  turns  to  the 
left,  crosses  the  Rhine,  and,  leaving  that 
river,  begins  at  once  the  ascent,  and  soon 
passes  through  a  short  tunnel  90  yards 
in  length.  After  numberless  windings  it 
reaches  the  summit  of  the  Splugen,  6783 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Almost 
immediately  the  road  begins  tc  descend. 
About  three  quarters  of  a  mile  beyond  the 
summit  the  Austrian  custom-house  and 
passport  office  are  reached.  The  road  re- 
commences the  descent  on  the  eastern 


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[ITALY.] 


ROUTES 


slope,  and  passes  through  three  galleries,  I  mit  of  the  pass  is  the  Lake  Moesola,  and 
the  lirst  700  feet  long,  the  second  G-i2  feet,  near  it  a  house  of  refuge.  After  descend- 
nnd  the  third  1530  feet,  the  longest  .caller-  ing  fur  a  short  distance,  the  Moesa  is  cross- 
ies  on  any  Alpine  road.  Near  the  village  ed  by  the  handsome  iron  bridge  "  Victor 
of  Pianazzo  a  beautiful  waterfall,  800  feet  Emmanuel,"  from  which  a  fine  view  is  ob- 


nigh,  may  be  seen. 

Campo  Dolcino  is  but  a  miserable  vil- 
lage, consisting  of  a  few  detached  groups 


tained  of  the  Piz  Moesola. 

<S«n  Bernardino  (Hotel  Brocco,  Hotel  JRa~ 
vixza,  and  Hotel  Mi.tto),  the  loftiest  village 


of  houses.     The  Lira  valley,  through  which  in  the  valley  of  Mesocco.     It  possesses  a 
the  road  now  passes,  presents  a  scene  of  mineral  spring,  with  baths,  and  attracts  a 


desolation,  occasionally  modified  by  chest- 
nut-trees, which  hide,  in  a  measure,  the  bar- 
renness of  the  rocks  which  surround  them. 
Chiavenna  (Hotel  Conradi)  was  once  a 


considerable  number  of  visitors.  Near  the 
village  St.  Giacomo  are  quarries  of  gyp- 
sum. A  fine  view  is  obtained  from  the 
bridge  of  St.  Giacomo  of  the  ruined  Castle 


flourishing  town  in  possession  of  the  Dukes  of  Mesocco.  The  descent  now  becomes 
of  Milan,  and  the  ruins  of  former  residences  very  rapid  until  we  reach  Mesocco,  a  mis- 
and  palaces  of  the  nobles  are  still  to  be  seen. !  erable  village,  but  very  picturesquely  sit- 
The  Church  of  San  Lorenzo,  the  Baptistery,!  uated.  Here  the  traveler  first  becomes 
and  the  charnel-houses,  in  which  skulls  aware  of  his  approach  to  Italy  by  the  pres* 


and  bones  are  curiously  arranged,  may  be 
visited  by  travelers.  About  four  miles 
from  Chiavenna  is  the  Fall  of  Gardona, 


ence  of  vines,  chestnut,  walnut,  and  mul- 
berry trees.   Below  Soazza  the  road  passes 


along  the  right  bank  of  the  Moesa.     Near 

which  is  worth  a  visit.     The  road  from  the  second  bridge  the  beautiful  waterfall 
Chiavenna  to  the  Lake  of  Kiva  is  rather;  Buffalora  is  seen. 
disagreeable,  and  the  scenery  is  very  un-       St.  Vittore  is  the  last  village  in  the  Can- 


interesting.      Kiva  is  situated  at  the  north 
extremity  of  the  lake. 

Calico  (Hotel  Piazza  Garibaldi),  a  village 
situated  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Legnone. 

Steamers  three  times  daily  from  Colico 
to  Como.  Fare  4  f. ;  time  3i  hours.  Kail- 
way  from  Como  to  Milan  in  2  hours. 

From  Coire  to  Magadino,  on  the  Lake 
Maggiore  (and  Milan),  over  the  Bernardino. 
— Diligence  twice  daily  in  summer  from 
Coire  to  Magadino.  Time  18  hours  ;  fare 
in  the  coupe,  30  f.  50  c. ;  interior,  26  f.  10  c. 

The  Bernardino  route  was  constructed  in  ble  importance,  owing  to  its  situation  at 
1822,  at  the  joint  expense  of  the  Sardinian  the  junction  of  four  roads — from  the  St.Go- 
and  Grison  governments.  The  road  is  the  j  thard,  the  Bernardino,  from  Lugano,  and 
same  as  that  of  the  Spliigen  up  to  Splii-  from  Locarno. 

gen.  Leaving  Spliigen,  it  advances  up  the  At  C-idenazzo  the  road  diverges  from 
valley  of  the  Hinter  Rhine,  on  the  left  that  which  leads  to  Lugano  over  the  Monte 
bank  of  the  Rhine,  for  a  distance  of  seven  \  Cenere. 


ton  of  the  Grisons.  Soon  we  enter  the  Can- 
ton Tessin,  and  the  road  unites  with  that 
of  the  St.  Gothard  Pass.  Just  beyond  the 
junction  of  the  Rivers  Moesa  and  Ticino 
stands  the  village  of  Arbedo,  memorable 
for  the  battle  which  was  fought  here  be- 
tween the  Milanese  and  Swiss,  in  which 
2000  of  the  latter  were  slain.  They  were 
interred  near  the  Church  of  St.  Paul,  called 
Chiesa  Rossa  on  account  of  its  red  color. 

Beltinzona  is  the  chief  town  in  the  Can- 
ton of  Tessin.     It  is  a  place  of  consiJera- 


miles,  until  it  reaches  Hinterrhein,  the 
highest  village  in  the  valley.  The  road 
over  the  Bernardino  here  leaves  the  Rhine, 
immediately  begins  to  ascend,  and  soon 
reaches  the  summit  of  the  BernardinoPass, 
C584  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This 
mountain,  known  to  the  Romans,  and  call- 
ed Vogelherg  down  to  the  15th  century, 
owes  its  present  name  to  St.  Bernardino  of 


AIag:idino  (Hi'tel  Bellevue)  is  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Ticino,  on  Lake  Mag- 
giore.  Steamers  leave  three  times  daily 
for  Arona,  performing  the  journey  in  4$ 
hours. 

f'nm  Innsbruck  to  Colico  (and  Milan)  over 
th>  Stelrio. — Diligence  from  Innsbruck  to 
Land>ei-k  daily  at  1  A.M.;  time  8f  hours. 
From  Landseck  to  Mais  four  times  weekly, 


Sienna,  who  first  preached  the  Gospel  here,  Jin  9  hours.      Omnibus  daily  from  Inns- 


and  to  whom  a  chapel  was  erected  on  the 
south  side  of  the  mountain.     On  the  suru- 


bruck  to  Landseck,  and  from  Landseck  to 
Mais.    Travelers  are  obliged  to  hire  a  vet- 

747 


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[ITALY.] 


ROUTES. 


turino  to  cross  the  Stelvio,  which  costs  12 
florins  a  clay,  there  being  no  diligence  for 
the  pass. 

From  Innsbruck  the  road  passes  along 
the  left  bank  of  the  Inn  for  a  distance  of 
seven  miles,  until  it  reaches  the  village  of 
Zirl,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Martins- 
wand,  the  precipice  upon  which  the  Em- 
peror Maximilian  I.  nearly  lost  his  life 
while  hunting.  On  the  right  of  the  vil- 
lage may  be  seen  the  picturesque  ruins  of 
ibs  Castle  of  Fragenstein. 

Near  Sifz  the  road  passes  the  Cistercian 
convent  of  Itambs,  founded  in  1271  by  the 
mother  of  Conradin,  the  last  of  the  house 
of  Hohenstaufen.  About  a  mile  from  Silz 
is  the  Castle  of  Petersberg,  the  birthplace 
of  Margaret  Maultasch,  who  brought  Ty- 
rol to  Austria  as  her  dowry.  Leaving  the 
river,  the  road  now  proceeds  to  Imst,  a  vil- 
lage of  about  3000  inhabitants,  situated  at 
the  base  of  the  Laggersberg.  Near  Mils 
the  road  again  approaches  the  Inn.  It  was 
here  that  one  of  the  ambuscades  of  the  Ty- 
rolese  took  place  in  1809.  Awaiting  the 
Bavarians  on  the  top  of  the  mountain,  they 
overwhelmed  them  on  their  approach  by 
hurling  trunks  of  trees  and  rocks  upon 
them.  The  Castle  of  Kronberg  is  pictur- 
esquely situated  on  the  height  of  an  emi- 
nence a  short  distance  from  Starkenbach. 
Near  the  nunnery  of  Zams,  founded  in 
1826,  the  Inn  is  again  crossed,  and  we 
reach  Landeck.  situated  on  its  right  bank. 
On  the  east  of  the  town  are  the  ruins  of  the 
stronghold  of  Landseck,  and  on  the  north 
those  of  Schrofenstein.  The  road  crosses 
to  the  left  bank  of  the  Inn  at  the  Pontlatz- 
cr  Bridge,  but  returns  to  the  right  bank  at 
the  village  of  Prutz,  situated  on  a  marshy 
plain  at  the  entrance  of  the  Kaunserthal. 

Jiied,  a  small  but  thriving  town,  is  next 
passed,  and  we  arrive  at  Pfunds,  which 
consists  of  two  groups  of  houses  situated 
on  either  bank  of  the  river.  Four  miles 
from  Pfunds  begins  the  Pass  of  Finster- 
miinz,  the  most  imposing  defile  in  Switzer- 
land with  the  exception  of  the  Via  Mala. 
About  half  way  between  Pfunds  and  Nau- 
ders  is  situated  an  inn  which  commands  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  valley  and  the  mount- 
ains in  the  background. 

^'mirier.*  is  about  three  miles  from  the 
Finstermiinz  and  three  from  the  Swiss  fron- 
tier.    The  road  now  ascends  to  the  pass 
called  Reschen-Scheideck. 
748 


Mais. — (Hotel  Post.)  Near  this  town  is 
seen  the  imposing  ruined  castle  of  Lich- 
tenberg. 

Praa  is  a  small  village  at  the  foot  of  the 
Stelvio  Pass.  Upon  a  height  on  the  right 
is  seen  the  village  of  Stilfs  or  Stelvio,  from 
which  the  pass  takes  its  name.  The.  road 
over  the  Stelvio,  the  loftiest  in  Europe, 
was  constructed  by  the  Austrian  govern- 
ment in  1820-25. 

At  Gomagoi,  where  the  custom-house  is 
situated,  is  seen  the  Sulden  Glacier.  Tra- 
foi,  situated  at  the  base  of  the  Ostler 
Mountain,  consists  of  a  few  huts.  The 
hamlet  derives  its  name  of  "Tres  Fontes" 
from  the  three  fountains  which  burst  from 
a  cliff  in  the  vicinity.  From  Franzenshohe 
the  traveler  may  look  down  upon  the  vast 
Madatsch  glacier,  which  descends  from  the 
•iilc  of  the  Ostler  several  thousand 
feet  into  the  valley  beneath  him.  Eight 
miles  from  Franzenshohe  is  the  summit 
of  the  Stelvio  Pass,  9328  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  A  house  called  Ferdi- 
nandsholie  stands  at  the  top,  the  highest 
habitation  on  the  Continent.  At  Santa 
Maria,  the  4th  Cantonicra.  is  situated  the 
Italian  custom-house.  Passing  the  Can- 
toniera  al  Pinano  del  Branglio,  we  come  to 
a  series  of  galleries  or  tunnels  built  to  pro- 
tect the  road  from  avalanches.  Soon  the 
singular  waterfall  called  the  Source  of  the 
Adda  is  seen  bursting  from  a  precipice  on 
the  right.  vAbout  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
Bormio  are  the  New  Baths.  They  are 
much  frequented  in  the  summer  months 
(see  Bormio  in  Index).  The  hotel,  which 
contains  140  bedrooms,  is  admirably  man- 
aged by  M.  Caflisch.  These  baths  may  be 
reached  from  Botzen,  or  from  Coire  via 
Samaden  and  Tirano,  crossing  the  Bernini 
Pass ;  from  Italy,  via  Verona  and  Botzen, 
or  Lake  Como,  Colico,  and  Sondrio.  At  Lo- 
vora.  in  1807,  a  landslide  took  place,  which 
completely  filled  up  the  bed  of  the  river 
Adda,  thus  causing  an  inundation  which 
converted  the  valley  as  far  as  Lovo  into  a 
vast  lake.  At  Lovero  the  water  rose  18 
feet,  and  the  traces  of  the  disaster  there 
are  still  discernible. 

Tirano,  a  small  town  containing  the  old 
residences  of  the  Pallavicini,  Visconti,  and 
Salis  families.  It  has  also  suffered  at  va- 
rious periods  from  the  inundations  of  the 
Adda. 

Sondrio,  capital  of  the  Val  Tcllina,  is 


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[ITALY.] 


ROUTES. 


picturesquely  situated  on  the  Malero,  near 
its  junction  with  the  Adda. 

Mombeffno,  noted  for  the  excellent  silk 
produced  in  the  neighborhood,  is  situated 
in  the  lower  part  of  the  Val  Tellina.  From 
Colico,  which  is  next  reached,  steamers 
traverse  the  lake  to  Como,  and  travelers 
thence  proceed  by  rail  to  Milan. 

From  Innsbruck  to  Verona  by  the  Brenner 
Past.  —  Railway.  Time,  9  hours;  fare, 
first  class,  33  fr".  60  c. 

The  Brenner  is  the  oldest  of  the  Alpine 
routes ;  was  known  to  the  Romans,  and  em- 
ployed by  Drusus.  Carriages  were  able 
to  pass  it  in  1772.  and  in  18C7  the  railway 
was  opened.  The  scenery  is  less  imposing 
than  that  of  any  of  the  other  Alpine 
passes. 

Soon  after  leaving  Innsbruck,  the  tun- 
nel of  Isel,  700  yards  in  length,  is  passed, 
and  the  railway  proceeds  along  the  right 
bank  of  the  Sill.  Before  reaching  Matrey 
nine  tunnels  are  passed  through,  the  long- 
est over  nine  hundred  yards  in  length. 

Station  Steinach,  a  town  entirely  rebuilt 
since  the  conflagration  of  1853.  In  the 
church  there  are  several  good  altar-pieces 
by  Knoller.  Passing  the  small  lake  Bren- 
ner, which  abounds  in  excellent  trout,  we 
reach  Brenner.  The  river  Sill  here  falls 
into  the  Inn,  and,  through  it,  into  the  Black 
Sea,  and  the  River  Eisach  forms  another 
cascade,  descends  to  the  Adige,  and  flows 
into  the  Adriatic.  The  railway  now  passes 
along  the  bank  of  the  Eisach,  and  descends 
to  >tation  Schflloberg. 

Station  Skrzlny  (hotels,  Post  and  Ros?), 
a  very  old  town,  situated  on  the  Sterzinger 
on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Roman 
Vipetenum.  Population,  2500.  It  de- 
rived much  wealth  in  the  Middle  Ages 
from  the  rich  silver,  lead,  and  copper  mines 
in  the  neighborhood.  From  Sterzing  to 
Freienfeld  the  castles  of  Sprechenstein 
and  Reifenstein  are  passed.  Beyond  Frei- 
enfeld, on  the  left,  rise  the  ruins  of  Wolf- 
enstein,  the  stronghold  of  the  pass  during 
the  Middle  Ages. 

Mittewald.  —  Here  Marshal  Lefebvre, 
Duke  of  Dantzig,  at  the  head  of  the  French 
and  Saxon  force?,  was  repulsed  by  the  cour- 
ageous Capuchin  Haspinger,  at  the  head 
of  his  Tyrolese  Landsturm.  Quite  a  dis- 
tance from  the  station  is  the  fortress  Franz- 
ensfeste,  constructed  by  the  Austrian  gov- 
ernmeut  in  1838  to  command  the  routes  to  i 
VOL.  II.— K 


Carinthia,  Brixen, Verona,  and  Innsbruck. 
A  new  fortress  is  about  to  be  constructed. 
Pedestrian  travelers  would  do  well  to  as- 
cend the  Pusterthal  from  here  as  far  as 
Bruncken,  and  proceed  thence  through  the 
Gader  and  Grodner  Valley  to  Botzen. 

To  the  left,  on  the  Eisach,  is  Neustift, 
founded  in  1142,  the  richest  monastery  in 
the  Tyrol. 

Brixen,  for  nine  centuries  the  see  of  an 
archbishop,  united  to  the  Tyrol  in  1802.  It 
contains  several  churches,  a  cathedral,  and 
the  palace  of  the  archbishop.  The  cathe- 
dral possesses  a  fine  altar-piece  by  Scbopf. 

Station  Klausen,  a  little  town  consisting 
of  a  single  street,  is  situated  in  a  detile  be- 
tween the  river  and  the  mountain.  Above 
the  town,  on  the  right,  is  the  Benedictine 
monastery  of  Sebcn.  Outside  the  town  is 
the  Capuchin  convent  founded  by  the  wife 
of  Charles  II.  of  Spain.  The  Loretto  Chap- 
el adjoining  the  monastery  contains  the 
most  valuable  ecclesiastical  treasures  in 
the  Tyrol.  On  the  left  bank  of  the  Eisach, 
beyond  Station  Waidbruck,  rises  the  pict- 
uresque castle  of  Trostburg,  the  property 
of  Count  Wolfenstein. 

At:>ra''ff  (Ih'itd  Po-te)  and  Station  Blu- 
man  are  next  passed  before  Botzen  is 
reached.  For  description  of  Botzen,  see 
Index. 

Leaving  Botaen,  the  Eisach  is  crossed  by 
a  bridge,  and  the  train  proceeds  to  Station 
Brunzoll,  where  the  Adige  first  becomes 
navigable. 

Station  Xeitmarl-t.  East  of  this  town  a 
road  runs  east  to  the  interesting  Flumers- 
thal. 

Station  Sa'ttrn.  Above  the  town  is  a 
picturesque  castle  in  ruins,  which  formerly 
commanded  the  Adige. 

Station  Lavis,  situated  on  the  Avisio, 
which  here  descends  from  the  valley  of 
Fleims  and  Fass  to  join  the  Adige. 

Trent  (Hotel  Europa,  Hotel  Corona),  the 
Tridentum  of  the  Romans,  is  situated  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Adige.  Population, 
14,000.  It  was  formerly  the  wealthiest 
and  most  important  town  in  the  Tyrol,  and 
-i-s  numerous  ruined  castles  and 
marble  palaces  to  tell  of  its  former  great- 
ness. The  finest  building  in  the  city  is  the 
cathedral,  founded  in  1812,  and  dedicated  to 
St.  Vilnius.  It  is  built  entirely  of  marble, 
and  is  surmounted  by  two  domes. 

Santa  Maria  Maggiore  is  the  church  in 


ROUTES. 


[ITALY.] 


ROUTES. 


which  the  celebrated  Council  of  Trent  met 
from  1545  to  1563.  It  contains  a  painting 
of  the  assembly,  with  portraits  of  the  mem- 
bers, 7  cardinals,  3  patriarchs,  33  archbish- 
ops, 235  bishops,  7  abbots,  and  146  profess- 
ors of  theology. 

Arco  lies  three  hours'  drive  from  Trent, 
by  carriage,  in  a  most  beautiful  country, 
one  half  hour  distant  from  the  Lake  of 
Garda.  Principal  hotel,  and  fine  summer 
residence,  Hotel  and  Kurhaus  Arco. 

Roveredo,  a  populous  town  of  8000  in- 
habitants, especially  noted  for  its  silk-cult- 
ure since  the  year  1200.  There  are  60 
filatide,  mills  in  which  the  silk  is  wound 
from  the  cocoon,  and  AQfilatorie,  spinning- 
mills.  In  the  Piazza  Podesta  is  situated 
the  remarkable  Castle  Junk.  Two  miles 
from  Roveredo  is  the  Castle  of  Lizzana,  in 
which  Dante,  exiled  from  Italy,  was  enter- 
tained by  Lord  Castelbarco. 

Station  Ala,  once  celebrated  for  velvet 
manufactories. 

Station  Avio  is  the  last  village  in  the 
Tyrol. 

Peri  is  the  first  village  in  Italy.  The 
Valley  of  the  Adige  is  separated  from  the 
Lago  di  Gardo  in  the  west  by  the  ridge  of 
the  Monte  Baldo.  The  train  now  passes 
into  the  celebrated  ravine  Chiusa  di  Verona. 

Near  Pescantina,  Solferino,  situated  on 
the  Mincio,  is  passed,  noted  for  the  battle 
fought  here  June  24th,  1859. 

At  St.  Lucia  the  railway  unites  with  the 
Verona  and  Milan  line,  and  soon  reaches 
Verona. 

From  Vienna  to  Trieste  by  the  Semmering 
Railway. — Express  train  from  Vienna  to 
Trieste;  time,  14  h.  40  m.  ;  fare,  28  fl. 
26  kr. 

The  terminus  of  the  railway  in  Vienna 
is  near  the  Belvedere  and  New  Arsenal. 

^[ijdUng  and  Baden  are  the  first  stations 
passed,  for  descriptions  of  which,  see  In- 
dex. Leaving  Baden,  the  ruined  castles  of 
Ran  hen  stein  and  Rauheneck  may  be  seen. 

Beyond  Leobersdorf,  in  the  distance,  no- 
tice the  barren  summit  of  the  Schneeberg. 

Xeiistntlt.  —  Hotels  Hirsch  and  Krone. 
Population,  10,800.  In  1834  a  great  con- 
flagration took  place,  leaving  only  14  build- 
ings standing,  since  which  time  the  town 
has  been  entirely  rebuilt.  In  1752  the  old 
castle  of  the  Babenberg  dukes  was  convert- 
ed into  a  military  academy  for  the  prepar- 
750 


atory  instruction  of  the  officers  of  the  line. 
Neustadt  is  connected  with  Vienna  by  a 
canal  40  miles  in  length,  used  chiefly  for 
the  transportation  of  coal  from  the  mines 
of  Oedenburg,  and  of  wood  from  the  Ba- 
konyerwald. 

Gloggnitz. — Here  the  Semmering  Rail- 
way commences,  an  enterprise  executed 
by  the  Austrian  government  in  1848-54. 
Leaving  Gloggnitz,  the  train  ascends  the 
left  bank  of  the  River  Schwarzer,  and 
crosses  the  Reichenauer  Thai  to  Station 
Eichberg,  where  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of 
the  plain  and  the  mountain  Gostritz. 

Klamm. — Above  the  town  is  the  mined 
castle  of  Prince  Liclitenstein.  The  Klamm 
tunnel  and  the  viaducts  of  Jiigergrabcn  and 
Gamperlgraben  are  passed,  and  Semmering 
is  reached,  the  summit  of  the  pass.  About 
a  mile  from  the  station  is  the  Erzherzog 
Johann  Inn.  In  order  to  avoid  any  far- 
ther ascent,  the  highest  part  of  the  Sem- 
mering is  penetrated  by  a  tunnel  4600  feet 
long. 

Minzzichlag  (Jh'itcl  Brilnhauss  and 
Railway  Restaurant),  situated  on  the 
Miirz.  which  river  the  train  now  follows. 
The  scenery  from  here  to  Bruck  is  most 
picturesque. 

Bnick,  a  pretty  town  situated  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Miirz  and  the  Miir. 
Above  the  town  rises  the  picturesque  Cas- 
tle of  Landskron.  The  line  now  winds 
along  the  left  bank  of  the  Miir,  passes  the 
Castle  of  Pcrncgg  and  the  stations  of  Mieg- 
nitz  and  Peggau  to  Gratz.  See  Index  for 
description  of  Gratz. 

Marburg,  the  second  town  in  Styria,  is 
next  reached  —  a  dull  place,  containing 
8000  inhabitants,  chiefly  Vends,  a  Sclavo- 
nic tribe,  the  German  language  now  being 
entirely  replaced  by  the  Sclavonic  dialect. 

Cilli,  an  ancient  town  situated  on  the 
Sann,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  the 
Emperor  Claudius.  Roman  ruins  are  still 
to  be  seen  in  the  vicinity.  A  little  dis- 
tance beyond  the  town  rise  the  ruins  of 
the  Castle  of  Obercilli,  formerly  belonging 
to  the  Counts  of  Cilly,  who  once  possessed 
all  ( 'arinthia.  From  Cilli  to  Steinbrucken 
is  thfi  finest  scenery  of  the  line. 

Sltinlrnrkeii,  situated  at  the  junction 
of  the  Save  and  Sann.  The  line  now  trav- 
erses the  valley  of  the  Save,  and  passes 
the  stations  Hrastintj,  Trefell,  Sac/or,  Luva, 
and  Salloch  to  Laybach. 


PESCKIPTIOX. 


[ITALY.] 


DESCRIPTION. 


For  Laibitch,  see  Index. 

Leaving  Laibach,  the  line  crosses  the 
marshy  plain  of  Laibacher  Moos,  and,  just 
before  reaching  Franzdorf,  passes  over  a 
viaduct  1(500  feet  long  and  1GOO  feet  high. 

Loituch. — Hotels,  Paste  and  Stadt  Trieste. 
The  quiuksilver-minfla  of  Istria  should  be 
vi>ited  from  here.  A  carriage  may  be 
hired  for  6  florins.  The  excursion  occu- 
pies 22  hours. 

Station  Rank. — Three  miles  from  this 
town  is  the  Lake  of  Zhknitz,  remarkable 
for  the  disappearance  of  its  waters  for 
months  at  a  time,  during  which  interval  the 
inhabitants  cultivate  buckwheat  in  its  bed. 

Station  Adelsberg.     See  Index. 

Near  Adelsberg  commences  the  desolate 
plain  of  Karst,  a  mass  of  limestone  rock 
abounding  in  gorges  and  caverns,  occa- 
sionally varied  by  thickets  of  brushwood. 
A  short  distance  before  reaching  Trieste 
the  Chateau  of  Miramar  is  reached,  the 
former  residence  of  the  Emperor  Maximil- 
ian of  Mexico.  A  pleasant  excursion  may 
be  made  to  it  from  Trieste. 

Trieste.     See  Index. 

For  description  of  the  Pass  of  St.  Ber- 
nard, see  Route  No.  4,  Vol.  III.,  Switzer- 
land, and  Route  No.  204,  Vol.  II.,  Italy. 


Italy  is  a  peninsula  900  miles  in  length. 
Its  breadth,  in  the  extreme  north,  is  about 
450,  but  in  the  other  parts  it  varies  from 
40  to  145.  It  has  in  point  of  form  not  in- 
aptly been  compared  to  a  spurred  boot. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  German- 
ic Confederation  and  Switzerland;  on  the 
northeast  by  Austria  ;  on  the  west  by 
France  ;  on  the  other  sides  by  the  Mediter- 
ranean Sea.  Its  total  population,  from  the 
last  census,  is  about  28,437,091  inhabit- 
ants, all  Catholics,  with  the  exception  of 
about  40,000  Protestants  and  25,000  Jews,  j 
The  country  in  general  is  mountainous,  j 
though  it  contains  level  districts  of  consid- 
erable extent :  the  Alps,  on  the  north  and 
west,  stretch  in  a  curved  line  from  Genoa 
to  the  Adriatic  Gulf,  and  the  Apennines 
run  through  the  whole  length  of  the  penin- 
sula, projecting  many  secondary  chains,  in 
one  of  which  is  Mount  Vesuvius.  In  Sici- 
ly rises  the  gigantic  cone  of  Etna,  the  nu»t 
considerable  among  the  volcanoes  that  be- 
long to  this  division  of  the  globe.  Its 
height  is  nearly  11,000  feet  above  the  Ic-wl 
of  the  sea.  In  Northern  Italv  arc  found 


numerous  lakes,  the  largest  of  which  are 
Maggiore,  Como,  and  Garda.  The  princi- 
pal rivers  are  the  Po,  the  Adige,  the  Arno, 
and  the  Tiber.  The  Po  is  capable  of  nav- 
igation, although  but  little  used  for  that 
purpose,  owing  to  the  danger  arising  from 
sudden  variations  in  the  rapidity  of  its  cur- 
rent, caused  by  its  numerous  tributaries' 
being  frequently  swelled  by  heavy  rains 
and  the  melting  of  mountain-snows.  The 
great  quantity  of  mud  deposited  by  this 
river  has  raised  its  bed  for  some  distance 
from  its  mouth  above  the  level  of  the  land, 
which  has  been  embanked  to  prevent  in- 
undation :  the  town  of  Ferrara  is  thirty 
feet  below  the  surface  of  the  water. 

The  climate  of  Italy  is  warm  and  dry ; 
during  the  summer  the  heat  is  most  intense 
on  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean  and  in 
the  plains  of  Lombardy,  but  much  less  so 
on  the  eastern  coast.  The  soil  is  in  gen- 
eral fruitful,  particularly  that  of  Lombardy 
and  the  former  Kingdom  of  Naples.  Rome, 
Florence,  Milan,  Genoa,  Turin,  Venice,  and 
Naples  are  among  the  principal  towns. 

After  the  fall  of  the  Roman  Empire, 
which  had  -extended  its  sway  over  the 
whole  of  the  known  world,  Italy  came  to 
belong  partly  to  the  Eastern  Empire  and 
partly  to  the  Lombards — a  tribe  of  bar- 
barians who  had  taken  possession  of  the 
whole  of  Northern  and  part  of  Central  It- 
aly, which  were  by  them  divided  into 
thirty-six  dukedoms.  In  the  9th  century 
Charlemagne  founded,  in  favor  of  his  sec- 
ond son,  Pepin,  a  kingdom  of  Italy,  consist- 
ing of  Lombard jr,  Bavaria,  and  Alemannia, 
or  South  Suabia.  He  had  given  the  Pope 
the  Exarchate  of  Ravenna  and  the  Pen- 
tapolis,  which  became  the  patrimony  of  St. 
Peter.  As  early  as  the  10th  centurj',  Italy, 
perpetually  convulsed  by  revolutions,  was 
divided  into  innumerable  independent 
states.  From  the  12th  to  the  13th  century- 
most  of  the  seaports  became  republics ; 
and  a  great  many  free  towns  of  Lombardy 
united  into  a  confederation.  The  progress- 
ive extension  of  the  Papal  States,  the  con- 
quests of  the  Normans  in  the  south,  the 
subjugation  of  Lombardy  by  the  German 
emperors,  the  wars  between  the  houses  of 
Anjou  and  Aragon,  altered  many  times  the 
political  division  of  Italy. 

Previous  to  1789  modern  Italy  consisted 
of  the  following  states :  the  Kingdom  of 
Sardinia,  the  republics  of  Genoa  and  Ven- 
751 


HISTORY. 


ice,  the  duchies  of  Modena  and  Parma, 
the  Grand-Duchy  of  Tuscany,  the  Papal 
States,  and  the  Kingdom  of  Naples.  North- 
ern Italy,  conquered  by  the  French  in  1797, 
formed  afterward  the  Cisalpine  Republic, 
•which  comprised  the  Milanese,  the  Repub- 
lic  of  Venice,  the  duchies  of  Modena  and 
Massa-Carrara,  and  three  legations  of  the 
Papal  States.  In  1804,  Savoy,  Piedmont, 
and  the  county  of  Nice  formed  seven  de- 
partments of  the  French  Empire.  In  1805 
the  Cisalpine  Republic  became  the  King- 
dom of  Italy,  which,  successively  aggran- 
dized by  various  annexations  of  territory, 
finally  consisted,  in  1809,  of  twenty-four 
departments.  In  1801  the  Grand-Duchy 
of  Tuscany  was  transformed  into  the  King- 
dom of  Etruria,  but  was,  in  1808,  annexed 
to  the  French  Empire,  of  which  it  formed 
three  departments  ;  while  the  Papal  States, 
partly  absorbed  already  by  the  Kingdom  of 
Italy,  added  three  more  departments  (one 
of  them  being  Rome  herself)  to  the  French 
Empire.  South  Italy  continued  to  bear 
the  title  of  Kingdom  of  Naples,  and  con- 
tained also  the  two  independent  principal- 
ities of  Benevento  and  Pontecorvo. 

The  events  of  1814  caused  the  following 
divisions : 

STATES.  CAPITALS. 

A'orthern  Italy. 

Kingdom  of  Sardinia Turin. 

Principality  of  Monaco Monaco 

Lombardo- Venetian  Kingdom, 
given  to  Austria Milan. 

Central  I  tali/. 

Duchy  of  Modena Modena. 

Duchy  of  Parma Parma. 

Duchy  of  Lucca Lucca. 

Duchy  of  Massa-Carrara Massa. 

Grand-Duchy  of  Tuscany. Florence. 

P;ipal  States Rome. 

Republic  of  St.  Marin St.  Maria. 

Smtthern  Italy. 
Kingdom  of  the  Two  Sicilies. .  .Naples. 

Since  1860,  Italy,  whose  name  according 
to  Metternich's  saying  had  become  but  a 
yeogrdphical  expression,  forms  a  compact 
kingdom,  of  which  the  King  of  Sardinia 
has  been  proclaimed  chief,  and  which  com- 
prises all  the  states  before  separated,  witli 
the  Papal  States  (patrimony  of  St.  Peter 
and  Campagne  de  Rome).  The  new  king- 
dom consists  of  69  provinces. 

History. — Italy,  according  to  Roman  tra- 
ditions, was  first  called  Sattirnia,  from  Sat- 
urn, who,  driven  out  of  Crete  bv  his  son 
752 


[ITALY.]  HISTORY. 

|  Jupiter,  was  welcomed  there  by  Janus, 
;  king  of  the  country,  whom  he  instructed  in 
j  agriculture  and  letters.  Upward  of  400 
j'ears  before  the  Trojan  war  a  colony  of 
Arcadians  settled  in  Italy,  under  the  con- 
duct of  CEnotrus ;  hence  the  name  of  CEno- 
tria  given  to  the  country.  Italus,  one  of 
his  successors,  called  it  Italy.  Evander, 
driven  from  Peloponnesus,  led  thither,  to- 
ward the  13th  century  B.C.,  a  second  col- 
ony of  Arcadians,  and  built  the  small  town 
of  Pallanteum  on  the  hill  afterward  styled 
Palatine.  A  short  time  after  this  ^Eneas, 
at  the  head  of  a  number  of  fugitive  Tro- 
jans, landed  near  the  mouth  of  the  Tiber, 
and  having  married  Lavinia,  daughter  to 
King  Latinus,  built  the  town  of  Lavinium. 
However  all  this  may  be,  Italy  was,  in 
the  first  instance,  peopled  by  various  ab- 
origines :  Hellens,  from  the  Greek  conti- 
nent, first  settled  there  ;  then  a  colony  of 
Gauls  ;  then  the  Etruscans  from  the  mount- 
ains of  Rhetia,  who  formed  the  most  pow- 
erful federative  state  in  Italy,  when  Bello- 
vese  led  there  a  colony  of  Ctlts  (6th  cen- 
tury B.C.),  and  was  the  first  cause  of  the 
decline  of  that  federation,  which  Rome, 
founded  since  753,  finally  subdued.  But 
the  revolution  which  ended  in  the  expul- 
sion of  Tarquin  the  Proud  (509  B.C.)  and 
the  establishment  of  a  republic,  bereft 
Rome  of  the  fruit  of  her  achievements, 
and  checked  her  political  progress  for  a  pe- 
riod of  160  years.  During  that  time  the 
Gauls  in  the  north  and  the  Samnites  in  the 
south  became  as  strong  as  the  Romans 
themselves.  But  from  391  to  350  B.C. 
the  Gauls  exhausted  their  forces  to  no  pur- 
pose ;  then  from  343  to  267  Rome,  ever 
courageous  and  persevering,  subdued  not 
only  the  Samnites,  but  the  whole  of  Central 
and  Southern  Italy,  and  from  221  to  173 
Cisalpine  Gaul  likewise  (with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  districts),  which  became  a 
Roman  province.  From  that  time  Italy 
has  had  no  other  history  than  that  of  Rome. 
After  the  fall  of  the  Western  Roman  Em- 
pire, Italy  successively  belonged  to  the 
Herules  (476)  ;  the  Ostrogoths  (491  to 
552) ;  the  Greeks  (552  to  568) ;  the  Lom- 
bards finally  shared  it  with  the  Eastern 
Empire — so  that  the  country  was  divided 
into  Lombard,  or  barbaric,  and  Greek,  or 
Roman  Italy,  the  latter  being  governed  by 
an  exarch  sitting  at  Ravenna. 

In   726  the  impolitic  violences  of  the 


HISTORY. 


[ITALY.] 


HISTORY. 


Greek  emperor,  Leo  III.,  the  Iconoclast, 
brought  about  a  rising.  The  Duchy  of 
Rome  became  :i  republic  under  the  presi- 
dency of  the  popes,  who  had  however 
soon  to  struggle  against  both  the  Lombard 
kings  and  the  Greek  exarchates :  Pope 
Stephen  III.  was  obliged  to  implore  the 
assistance  of  Charles  Martel  and  the 
Franks.  The  Lombards  in  spite  of  that 
extended  their  dominion  southward,  and 
founded  the  Duchy  of  Benevento  by  force 
'of  arms ;  but  their  monarchy  was  destroyed 
by  Charlemagne  (774);  the  consequence 
of  which  was  a  fresh  division  of  Italy  into 
Greek  and  Frank  Lombardy  (the  latter 
henceforth  confined  to  the  Duchy  of  Bene- 
vento). The  popes,  in  this  state  of  things, 
did  not  enjoy  fullness  of  sovereignty,  but 
were  dependent  upon  the  emperors. 

Soon  after  the  death  of  Charlemagne, 
Italy  formed  a  separate  kingdom,  to  which 
was  added  (843)  the  imperial  crown,  long 
worn  by  Carlovingian  princes.  On  the 
deposition  of  Charles  the  Big  (888),  Italian 
princes  (Bere'nger,  Guy,  etc.)  attempted  to 
have  themselves  proclaimed  kings  of  Italy. 
These  princes,  after  the  extinction  of  the 
German  Carlovingians  (911),  preserved 
their  independence  ;  but  Otho  I.  (962)  re- 
vived the  sovereignty  of  Germany  over 
Northern  Italy ;  and  his  successors  at- 
tempted even  the  conquest  of  Greek  Italy. 
Henry  III.  (1039  to  1056)  rendered  more 
and  more  stringent  the  dependence  of  the 
popes,  which  Gregorj'  VII.,  pope  in  1073, 
shook  off  entirely,  endeavoring  even  to 
place  papal  power  above  that  of  the  em- 
perors by  raising  the  question  of  investi- 
tures (1017  to  1122). 

About  the  same  time  the  Norman  con- 
querors firmly  settled  in  Greek  Italy,  after 
having  driven  thence  the  emperors  of  the 
West  and  the  Lombards  of  Benevento. 
They  created  there  the  Kingdom  of  the  Two 
Sicilies,  constituted  as  early  as  1131,  in 
favor  of  Roger  I.  as  a  fief  of  the  Holy  See. 

In  1161  the  war  broke  out  between  the 
Guelphs  and  Ghibelines  of  Italy,  which  last- 
ed seven  years,  and  ended  in  the  triumph  of 
the  Guelphs  and  the  expulsion  of  the  Ger- 
mans. The  Lombard  and  Tuscan  towns, 
which  had  adopted  the  republican  form  of 
government,  were  «o  longer  kept  in  awe 
by  masters  from  the  other  side  of  the  Alps ; 
but,  on  the  other  hand,  most  of  them 
groaned  under  indigenous  tyrants,  and 


more  than  once  were  the  popes  driven  out 
of  Rome  and  a  republic  established. 

I!y  degrees,  however,  and  through  tur- 
bulence and  revolutions,  the  destinies  of  the 
country  assumed  a  more  settled  character. 
In  1282,  and  consequent  upon  the  Sicili'in 
I '/  .<]»  /•.«,  the  Kingdom  of  the  Two  Sicilies 
was  divided  into  the  Kingdom  of  Naples 
and  the  Kingdom  of  Sicily,  governed  by 
two  rival  dynasties. 

Tilings  remained  in  this  state  until  the 
year  1504.  In  the  north,  Milan,  in  the 
hands  of  the  Viscontis  (1277  to  1447)  and 
of  the  Sforces  (1447  to  1535),  became  the 
metropolis  of  an  extensive  duchy.  Great 
importance  was  given  to  Savoy  by  Count 
Vert  (Amadeus  VI.,  1343  to  1383).  Ven- 
ice became  as  early  as  the  beginning  of  the 
14th  century  a  conquering  power  in  terra 
lirma.  The  house  of  Este  reigns  over  Fer- 
rara,  the  Gonzagues  at  Mantua.  Florence 
stands  supreme  among  the  states  of  Tus- 
cany,and  the  Medici  begin  todominate  there. 
The  pope?,  after  seventy  years'  exile  at 
Avignon  (1309  to  1378),  resumed  their  foot- 
ing in  Italy :  Albornoz  caused  the  author- 
ity of  Innocent  VI.  to  be  acknowledged  by 
almost  all  the  ecclesiastic  states  (1360). 

Italy,  nevertheless,  could  not  completely 
escape  a  foreign  yoke.  Vainly  did  the  war- 
like Pope  Julius  II.  strive  to  drive  thebarba- 
rians  out  of  it.  France  and  Spain  contend- 
ed for  the  possession  of  that  beautiful  coun- 
try ;  Charles  VIII.,  Louis  XII.,  and  Fran- 
cis I.  failed  in  their  attempts  to  subdue  it ; 
Spain  prevailed  :  mistress  of  the  Kingdom 
of  the  Two  Sicilies  as  early  as  1505,  sho 
turned  the  Duchy  of  Milan  into  a  Spanish 
province  (1540);  and,  being  all-powerful 
both  in  the  north  and  the  south,  had  hot 
own  way  in  the  political  organization  of 
the  remaining  states.  Venice,  however, 
preserved  her  independence.  Spain  lost 
some  of  her  preponderance  in  the  course  of 
the  17th  century,  and  saw  it  almost  entire- 
ly reduced  to  naught  during  the  18th. 
The  Milanese  and  the  Two  Sicilies  bocame 
Austrian  possessions  (1706  to  1721)  :  but 
between  1721  and  1738  two  members  of 
younger  branches  of  the  house  of  Spanish 
Bourbons  obtained  respectively  the  sover- 
eignty of  Parma  and  the  Two  Sicilies,  on  con- 
dition, however,  that  these  two  states  should 
never  be  annexed  to  the  crown  of  Spain. 

The  wars  of  the  French  Revolution,  and 
still  more  those  of  the  empire,  altered  for 
753 


HISTORY. 


[ITALY.] 


HISTORY. 


a  time  the  political  division  of  Italy.  In 
1801  Savoy  and  Piedmont  were  annexed  to 
France  ;  the  Milanese,  conquered  from  Aus- 
tria, formed theCisalpine  Republic :  Austria 
received,  as  a  compensation,  Venice,  with 
the  continental  states  attached  to  it ;  a 
Spanish  prince  was  made  King  of  Etruria. 

After  the  battle  of  Austerlitz  (1805),  and 
consequent  upon  the  Treaty  of  Presburg. 
Venice  and  appendant  states  were  joined 
to  the  Cisalpine  Republic,  which  was  then 
called  the  Kingdom  of  Italy.  Genoa  was 
incorporated  with  the  French  Empire ; 
the  Kingdom  of  Naples,  conquered  by  the 
French  arms  from  King  Ferdinand  IV.,  re- 
duced to  Sicily,  was  given  by  Napoleon  I. 
to  his  brother  Joseph  (1806),  then  to  Murat, 
his  brother-iu-law  (1808). 

The  Queen  of  Etruria  having  abdicated 
in  1807,  her  states  became  part  of  the 
French  Empire ;  at  the  same  time  a  por- 
tion of  the  Roman  states  and  the  Southern 
Tyrol  were  joined  to  the  Kingdom  of  Italy 
(1809),  while  Rome  herself  and  the  remain- 
der of  the  Roman  states  were  absorbed  by 
t^je  French  Empire. 

Thus,  with  the  exception  of  Sicily,  where 
the  Bourbons  of  Naples  still  reigned,  and 
the  Island  of  Sardinia,  the  only  possession 
left  the  house  of  Savoy,  the  whole  of  Italy 
was  in  the  power  of  Napoleon.  The  north- 
western part,  as  far  as  the  Garigliano  (ex- 
cept the  Principality  of  Lucca  and  Piom- 
bino,  given  to  his  eldest  sister  Eliza),  was 
considered  as  part  of  the  French  Empire ; 
the  whole  of  the  western  part  and  the  lega- 
tions formed  his  Kingdom  of  Italy,  admin- 
istered under  him  by  his  step-son  Eugene 
as  viceroy ;  Murat,  his  brother-in-law,  was 
King  of  Naples.  The  Pope  himself  had 
been  dispossessed. 

But  after  the  events  of  1814  the  Con- 
gress of  Vienna  reinstated  the  Pope  in  the 
whole  of  his  possessions ;  to  the  house  of 
Savoy  were  restored  Savoy,  Piedmont, 
Nice,  with  the  addition  of  Genoa ;  Austria 
recovered  the  Milanese,  to  which  was  add- 
ed Venice,  forming  the  Lombardo- Venetian 
Kingdom  ;  two  Austrian  princes  had  Tus- 
cany and  Modona  ;  Maria-Louisa,  Napole- 
on's wife,  became  Duchess  of  Parma,  and 
a  Bourbon  of  the  house  of  Parma  Duke  of 
Lucca.  Murat  continued  a  short  time  in 
Naples ;  but  was  dispossessed  during  the 
Hundred  Days  (1815),  and  Ferdinand  IV. 
reinstated. 

754 


To  Austria  had  been  granted  the  right 
to  keep  a  garrison  in  several  places  of  the 
Roman  states.  That  empire  swayed  the 
whole  of  Italy,  and  upheld  every  where 
absolute  power.  It  was  not  long  before  its 
domination  became  hateful :  threatened  by 
the  secret  society  of  the  so-called  Carbona- 
ri, and  by  the  most  popular  writers :  at- 
tacked repeatedly  (Lv21.  1«1.  and  ]S41) 
by  insurrections  violently  repressed,  it 
was  for  a  short  time  greatly  shaken  in 
1848 ;  then  Sicily  rose  against  the  King 
of  Naples  and  proclaimed  its  independence ; 
Naples,  Florence,  and  Turin  demanded  and 
obtained  the  grant  of  constitutions ;  Rome 
became  a  republic ;  Milan  and  Venice  rose 
against  Austria ;  Parma  and  Modena  drove 
away  their  dukes. 

The  King  of  Sardinia,  Charles  Albert, 
took  the  direction  of  the  movement,  and 
successful!}'  opposed  Austria  for  a  time ; 
but,  badly  seconded  by  the  Lombard  troops, 
he  was  beaten  at  Novara  (March  23, 1849), 
and  resorted  to  abdication.  The  former 
state  of  things  was  then  immediately  re- 
stored, though  the  Sardinian  states  kept 
their  constitution  and  Parliamentary  gov- 
ernment. 

Tranquillity  was  unexpectedly  disturbed 
in  Italy  by  the  sudden  invasion  of  Pied- 
mont by  the  Emperor  of  Austria  (1859). 
Repulsed  by  the  King  of  Sardinia,  aided 
by  the  Emperor  of  the  French,  beaten  at 
Montebello,  Palestro;  Magenta,  and  Solfe- 
rino,  he  lost  Lombard}'.  All  the  princes 
who  had  sided  with  him  were  driven  out 
of  Italy.  After  a  vain  attempt  at  a  con- 
federation, proposed  in  the  treaties  of  Vil- 
lafranca  and  Zurich,  and  after  the  revolu- 
tion effected  in  the  Kingdom  of  Naples  by 
General  Garibaldi,  all  the  states  of  Italy 
(except  Venetia,  left  to  Austria,  and  the 
Roman  states,  where  the  authority  of  the 
Pope  was  maintained  by  France)  united  in 
1860,  and  Victor  Emmanuel,  king  of  Sar- 
dinia, was  proclaimed  King  of  Italy  (March, 
1861).  Florence  was,  in  September,  18G4, 
declared  the  capital  of  the  new  kingdom,  to 
which  Venetia  was  added  in  1866  at  the  is- 
sue of  a  war  in  which  Italy  had  been  the 
ally  of  Prussia  against  Austria  ;  but  Rome 
was  in  1*71  finally  declared  the  capital  of 
United  Italy. 

The  constitution  granted  March  4, 1848, 
to  the  former  Kingdom  of  Sardinia,  is  at 
the  present  day  that  of  the  whole  country. 


HISTORY. 


"[ITALY.] 


HISTORY. 


A  Synoptical  Table  showing  the  gradual  rise  of  the  House  of  Savoy,  reputed  the 
most  ancient  reigning  house  in  Europe ;  from  Humbert  (with  the  White  Hands),  its 
founder,  down  to  tin-  present  time : 


DAVES. 


PABKNTAGE. 


-*IVE  EXTENSION  or  TEUBUOEY. 


1027-1043, 


1048-1060, 

1060-1072, 
or  1080, 


1072  or 
1103-114s! 
1148-1188, 

1188-1223, 
1223-1253, 


Count  Humbert 


(with   the 
Hands), 


White 


Amadeus  I., 
Amadeus  II., 


of  Rudolph  III., 
king  of  the  Bur- 
gnndiaus, 


Son  or  grandson  of 


Received  from  Rudolph  Savoy  and  Man- 
rienne,  with  the  title  of  Count;  from 
the  Emperor  Conrad  le  Salique,  suc- 
cessor to  Rudolph,  part  of  Fan 
the  Lower  Chablais,  and  the  V;il 
d'Aosta,  aud  thus  founded  the  house 
of  Savoy. 

No  record. 


Humbert, 

Nephew  to  Amadeus  Considerably  increased  the  possessions 
I.,  |     of  the  counts  of  Savoy,  and  joined 

to  them  the  inheritance  of  his  moth- 
er, consisting  of  almost  the  whole  of 
Piedmont. 
Humbert  II.,  Sou  of  Amadens  II.,  Added    the   Tarentese,  Vaud,  Upper 

j     Chablais,  Suze. 
Amadeus  III.,  Son  of  Humbert  II.,  Savoy  made  fitat  d'Empire  by  the  Em- 

|     peror  Henry  V. 
Humbert    III.    (the  . Sou  of  Amadeus  III.,  Took  Turin.     Barbarossa  destroyed 


Holy), 


Thomas  I., 


Amadens  IV., 


Son  of  Humbert  IIL, 


Suze  by  fire,  when  the  archives'  of 
the  house  of  Savoy  were  reduced  to 
ashes. 
Made  Imperial  Vicar  in  Piedmont  by 


1253-1263,  Boniface, 
1263-126S,  Pierre  (petit  Charle- 
magne), 


1268-12S5, 
1285-1323, 


Philip, 


Amadens  V.  (the  Sou  of  Thomas  I., 
Great), 


1323-1329,  Edward  (the  Liber- 


the  Emperor  Frederick  II.  Added 
the  Bugey,  the  Valais,  and  made 
Chambery  the  capital. 

Son  of  Thomas  I.,    i  Possession    of  Turin    and  Piedmont 
i     definitively  secured  (1235). 

Son  of  Amadens  IV..  Left  no  issue. 

Brother  to  Amadens  Inherited  the  comity  of  Genevoie. 
Had  been  made  before  his  accession 
Earl  of  Richmond  and  K- 
Henry  III.  of  England  for  services 
rendered  in  his  wars  against  his 
barons. 

Same  as  above. 

Annexed  Lower  Faucigny  a_nd  the  town 
of  Geneva.  Had  the  seigniories  of 
Asti  and  Ivrea  settled  on  him  by  the 
Emperor  Henry  VII. 


Brother  to  Pierre, 


Son  of  Amadens  V., 


1880-1343,  Aimon  (the  Pacific),  Son  of  Amadeus  V., 
1343-1383, 


1383-1391, 
1391-1439, 


:  Amadeus    VI.    (the  Sou  of  Aimon, 
Green  Count), 


Amadeus  VII.   (the  Son  of  Amadeus  VI., 


Red  ConnO, 
Amadeus  VIII., 


1440-14C5, 

14(15-1472, 
il472-1482, 

j 1482-1489, 

1489-1490, 
;149tM497, 
{1497-1S04, 


Louis  I., 


Sou  of  AmadeusVII. 


Same  as  above. 

Same  ns  above. 

Added  Vaud,  Gex,  Upper  Faucigny, 

Valromey,  Qniers,  Coni,  Querasco, 

Verrna. 
Added  Nice  and  Vintimiglia. 

Added  Bngey  nnd  Verceil,  and  refrain- 


d Piedmont  (142'.i),  which  had  since 
the  time  of  Amadeus  the  Great  been 
a  separate  fief.  Created  l>uke  <if 
Sarii'i  by  the  Emperor  Sigismund 
(1410).  Abdicated. 
Son  of  Amadeus  Same  as  above. 


VIII., 

Amadens  IX..  Son  of  Louis  I.,         Same  as  above. 

Philibcrt  I.  (the  Son  of  Amadeus  IX.,  Same  as  above. 

Hunter), 
Charles  I.  (the  War-  Brother  to  Philibert  Inherited  the  title  of  Kintj  of  Cypr\ts 


rior), 
Charles  II., 
Philip  II., 
Philibert  II.  (the 

Handsome), 


I.,  from  Charlotte  of  Lusiguaii. 

Son  of  Charles  I.,      Died  ciirht  years  old. 
Son  of  Louis  I.,         Grandfather  to  Francis  I.  of  France. 
No  issue. 

755 


HISTORY. 


[ITALY.] 


HISTORY. 


DATKS. 

NAMES. 

PABKNTAGK. 

SuooEseivK  EXTENSION  OF  TERRITORY. 

1504-1553, 

Charles  III., 

Brother  to  Philibert 

Despoiled  of  almost  all  his  possessions 

II., 

during  the  wars  between  Francis  L 

and  Charle.-  V. 

1553-15SO, 

Emmanuel  Philibert 

Son  of  Charles  III., 

Served  with  great  distinction  as  a  gen- 

(the Iron  Head), 

eral  under  Charles  V.  of  Spain,  and 

'retrained  the  whole  of  the  dukedom. 

1580-1630, 

Charles   Emmanuel 

Son    of  Emmanuel 

Acquired  the  Marquisate  of  Saluces; 

I.  (the  Great), 

Philibert, 

u  i-    by    the   Ligwurn    proclaimed 

Count  of  Provence.    Ceded  by  the 

Treaty  of  Lyons   to  Henry  IV.  of 

France,  who  had  invaded  the  duke- 

dom, Bngey,  Valromey,  and  Gex. 

1630-1637, 

Victor  Amadens  I., 

Son  of  Charles  Em- 

Acquired part  of  Montferrat,  Alba-mi- 

manuel, 

Tanaro,  and  the  Albesane. 

1637-1638, 

Pi-aucis  Hyacinth, 

Son  of  Victor  Ama- 

Same  as  above. 

deus  I., 

1638-1675, 

Charles   Emmannel 

Brother  to  Francis 

Same  as  above. 

IL, 

Hyacinth, 

1675-1730, 

Victor  Amadens  II., 

Son  of  Charles  Em- 

Acquired Sicily  and  part  of  the  Dnchy 

manuel  II., 

of  Milan,  and  then  assumed  the  title 

of  King.    Abdicated. 

1730-1773. 

Charles  Emmanuel, 

Son  of  Victor  Ama- 

III.  as  Duke  of  Savoy;  I.  as  King  of 

deus  II.  , 

.Sardinia:   became  possessed  of  the 

whole  of  the  Milanese  by  conquest: 

received   the  Novarese  "and   n   feu- 

fiefs  of  the  empire. 

1773-1796, 

VictorAmadensIIL, 

Sou  of  Charles  Em- 

The Treaty  of  Paris  (179C)  deprived  him 

1796-1802, 

Charles  Emmanuel 

manuel, 
Fourth  son  of  Victor 

of  part  of  his  terra-flrma  states. 
Reduced   to   the   Island  of  Sardinia. 

II., 

Amadeus  III., 

Abdicated. 

1  302-1821, 

VictorErnmanuelL, 

Second  son  of  Victor 

Continental  states  restored  (1814)  ;  ac- 

Amadeus III., 

quired  the  ancient  territory  of  Genoa 

and  other  places.    Abdicated. 

1821-1831, 

Charles  Felix, 

Brother  to  Victor 

No  issue. 

Emmanuel  I., 

1831-1849, 

Charles  Albert, 

Duke  of  Cariguan, 

Of  the  collateral  branch  of  Savoy-Ca- 

riguan.    Abdicated. 

King  Humbert  I.,  son  of  Victor  Em- 
manuel II.,  occupies  to-day  the  throne  as 
King  of  United  Italy,  with  Rome  for  its 
capital.  Born  March  14,  1844;  married 
April  22, 1868,  to 

Hereditary  Princess  Na.'rie-Marguerite- 
Th6rese-Jeanne,  Princess  of  Savoy ;  born 
Nov.  20, 1851 ;  daughter  of  the  late  Ferdi- 
nand, Prince  of  Savoy,  Duke  of  Genoa. 

Son:  Prince  Victor -Emmanue  -  Ferdi- 
nand -  Marie  -  Janvier,  Prince  of  Naples, 
born  in  Naples  November  11,  1869. 

Victor  Emmanuel  II.,  the  late  king, 
son  of  Charles  Albert,  was  born  March  14, 
1820;  married  April  12,  1842,  to  Marie- 
A  delai'le-  Frances  -Renier-  Elizabeth-  Clo- 
tilde  (born  June  3,  1822),  daughter  of  the 
late  Renter,  Archduke  of  Austria ;  a  wid- 
ower January  20,  1855;  afterwards  con- 
tracted morganatic  marriage  with  Rosa 
Vercellena,  Countess  of  Mirafiore.  Died 
January  9,  1878. 
756 


Children. — ^Ist.  Princess  Cfofo'&fe-Maria- 
Theresa-Louisa;  born  March  2, 1843 ;  mar- 
ried January  30, 1859,  to  Prince  Napoleon- 
Joseph-Charles-Paul-Bonaparte. 

2d.  //Mm6er<-Renier-Charles-Emmanuel- 
Jean-Marie-Ferdinand-Eugene,  the  present 
King  of  Italy. 

3d.  Prince  A  medee  -  Ferdinand  -  Marie, 
Duke  of  Aosta.  born  May  30, 1845;  Lieuten- 
ant-General.  Accepted,  Dec.  4,  1870,  the 
crown  of  Spain,  offered  him  by  the  Spanish 
nation ;  abdicated  Feb.  11,  1873,  and  re- 
turned to  Italy.  Married  May  30,  1867,  to 

Princess  .l/«ne-Victoire-Charlotte-Hen- 
riette-Jeanne,  born  August  9, 1847;  daugh- 
ter to  C%ar/es-£mman«f  J-Philippe-Joseph- 
Alphonse-Franoois-Marie,  Prince  del  Poz- 
zo  della  Cisterna,  and  Louise -Caroline- 
Ghislaine,  Countess  of  Merode. 

Sons :  1st.  Prince  Ermnanuel-PhftibeTt- 
Victor  -  Eugene  -  Albert  -  Geneva  -  Joseph- 
Marie,  Duke  of  Apulia,  born  January  13. 
1869. 


FINANCES. 


[ITALY.] 


VENICE. 


2d.  Prince  Victor  -  Emmanuel  -  Turin- 
Jean-Marie,  Count  of  Turin,  born  Novem- 
ber 24,  1870. 

:!d.  Prince  Louis  -  Amedec  -  Joseph  -Ma- 
rie-Ferdinand-Francois, born  January  ;.!!. 
1870. 

4th.  Princess  Marie-Pie,  born  October 
16,  1847 ;  married  by  proxy,  September, 
then  personal!}',  October  G,  1862,  to  Louis, 
King  of  Portugal. 

BUDGET  FOB  1S74: 

Expenses  (lire  or  francs) 1,540,862,262 

Receipts 1,364,147,325 


Showing  a  deficit  of 176,714,yb7 

Amount  of  the  nominal  capital  of  the 
Public  Debt  at  the  expiration  of  the  year 
1874  (lire  or  francs),  9,851,731,566. 

Military  service  is  obligatory.  The 
whole  land-force  of  the  kingdom,  according 
to  official  return  (July  1, 1874),  consists  of 

1st.  Standing  Army 395,951 

'J.I.  Reserve 148,004 

3d.  Militia 279,872 

Total  number 823,827 

The  Navy  consists  (official  return,  Jan- 
uary 1,  1874)  of  61  men-of-war  and  19 
transport-ships,  manned  by  19,311  seamen  ; 
and  29,111  merchantmen,  fishing -crafts, 
etc.,  manned  by  nearly  200,000  seamen. 


VOL.  II. -K  2 


ROUTE  No.  199. 

See  Route  No.  193. 

"  The  celebrated  name  of  Venice,  or  Ve- 
ncti/i,  was  formerly  diffused  over  a  large 
and  fertile  province  of  Italy.  It  was  di- 
vided into  two  parts,  first  and  second,  of 
which  the  first  applied  to  the  mainland, 
and  the  second  to  the  islands  and  lagoons. 
In  the  first,  before  the  irruption  of  the  bar 
barians,  50  Venetian  cities  flourished  in 
peace  and  prosperity.  Aquileia  was  placed 
in  the  most  conspicuous  station  ;  but  the 
ancient  dignity  of  Padua  was  supported  by 
agriculture  and  manufactures.  The  sec- 
ond part,  placed  in  the  midtt  of  canals  at 
the  mouth  of  several  rivers,  was  occupied 
in  fisheries,  salt-works,  and  commerce." 

Venetia  was  formerly  a  celebrated  re- 
public of  Italy;  it  is  now  a  province  of 
United  Italy.  The  republic  was  formed 
soon  after  the  building  of  the  city  in  the 
fourth  century.  The  government  was  at 
first  democratic,  but  in  1247  became  an 
aristocracy ;  none  could  afterward  have 
any  share  in  it  but  the  nobles  :  the  Doge 
A'as  the  chief  executive  officer,  and  was 
elected  by  a  plurality  of  votes  by  means 
of  gold  and  silver  balls.  In  1797  the  city 
of  Venice  was  taken  by  the  French,  who 
instituted  a  provisionary  democratic  gov- 
ernment ;  but  soon  after,  by  the  treaty  of 
Campo  Formio,  the  city  and  territory  lying 
to  the  north  and  west  of  the  River  Adigo 
was  ceded  to  Austria  as  a  duchy,  and  also 
as  an  equivalent  for  the  dominions  lost  by 
the  Austrians  in  the  Netherlands.  Tho 
remainder  of  the  Venetian  territory  was 
annexed  by  the  French  to  the  Cisalpine 
Republic.  In  1805,  by  the  treaty  of  Pre.c- 
burg,  the  whole  Venetian  territory  was  an- 
nexed to  the  kingdom  of  Italy.  It  was 
once  one  of  the  most  powerful  maritime 
and  commercial  states  in  Europe.  For 
this  it  was  indebted,  at  first,  to  the  mo- 
nopoly of  the  commerce  of  India,  the  prod- 
ucts of  that  country  being  conveyed  during 
ths  Middl.i  Ages  np  the  (Itilf  of  Persia,  the 
Euphrates,  and  the'  Tigris,  as  far  as  l>ag- 
dad,  thence  by  land  across  the  desert  to 
Palmyra,  and  thence  to  the  Mediterranean 
ports.  Afterward  the  supplying  of  the 
757 


VENICE. 


[ITALY.] 


VENICE. 


Crusaders  on  their  way  to  Palestine  with 
provisions  and  military  stores  was  an  ad- 
ditional source  of  opulence  and  power. 
A1V  this  declined  after  the  discovery  oi  the 
passage  to  India  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
in  1486  by  the  Portuguese. 

"  The  Lombardo-Venetian  kingdom  was 
one  of  the  most  valuable  possessions  under 
the  Austrian  sceptre.  The  northern  part 
of  this  territory  is  mountainous,  the  south 
flat,  forming  the  plain  of  Lombardy.  The 
whole  country  abounds  with  rivers,  all  of 
which  have  a  southerly  course  except  the 
Po,  and  all  contribute  their  waters  to  the 
Adriatic.  At  the  foot  of  the  Alpine  chains, 
in  the  north  of  Lombardy,  are  the  lakes  of 
Garda,  Como,  Maggiore,  Lugano,  Iseo,  etc. 
The  shores  of  the  Adriatic  are  lined  wita 
extensive  lagoons,  in  the  midst  of  which 
is  Venice."  The  climate,  except  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  Mantua  and  near  the  Adriatic, 
is  considered  healthy.  The  thermometer 
keeps  higher  in  summer,  and,  as  a  general 
thing,  sinks  lower  in  winter  in  Lomhardy 
than  in  England ;  and  more  rain  falls  here 
than  in  any  other  portion  of  the  Austrian 
dominions.  In  Venice  the  annual  amount 
is  estimated  at  34  inches,  and  in  Lombardy 
at  45  inches :  the  rains  are  heavier  in  the 
autumn  and  winter  than  at  any  other  sea- 
son. The  spring  is  considered  the  most 
delightful  time  to  visit  this  country :  cloud- 
less skies  and  a  genial  climate  of  course  add 
much  to  the  pleasure. 

Large  sums  of  money  are  spent  in  keep- 
ing up  public  education.  A  larger  portion 
of  the  population  is  educated  in  the  Lom- 
bardo-Venetian kingdom  than  in  almost 
any  other  of  the  Austrian  provinces.  The 
government  of  Austria  in  Italy  is  undoubt- 
edly a  cold,  repulsive,  and  jealous  despot- 
ism ;  but  it  is  not  oppressive,  and,  in  point 
of  military  government,  it  is  not  as  rigid 
as  the  French.  "  The  greater  portion  of 
this  part  of  Italy,  after  the  fall  of  the  West- 
ern empire,  was  successively  possessed  by 
the  Heruli,  Ostrogoths,  Greeks,  and  Lom- 
bards :  the  latter  held  it  from  568  till  774, 
when  Charlemagne  annexed  it  to  the  em- 
pire of  the  Franks,  to  which  it  remained 
attached  till  888.  From  that  period,  ex- 
cept the  territory  of  the  Venetians,  it  gen- 
erally belonged  to  the  German  emperors 
till  the  establishment  of  the  republic  of 
Milan  in  1150.  This  republic,  in  1553, 
came  into  the  possession  of  Charles  V.  Ven- 
788 


ice  and  its  territory,  which  had  existed  as 
an  aristocratic  republic  from  the  7th  centu- 
ry to  1797,  was  confirmed  to  Austria  by  the 
treaty  of  Vienna,  1815,  of  which  it  remained 
a  portion  till  1866,  when  it  was  ceded  to 
United  Italy  through  Napoleon  III. 


VENICE. 

On  arriving  at  the  station  in  Venice, 
when  passing  through  the  entrance,  the 


v  Er 


I  CE. 


2* 
23 
26 
21 
28 
29 
falleria.  Corrvr  fjftu-ro  avico)  30 


S^poftoU. 
.trsonale 
S'.fhancastv  itifiwlo 

delta  Pigna. 


Pal.Keale 


eanuit 

Ktarduu  pubblia/ 

Cuirdaw  Papadopob. 

S  Giorgio  Magtjiore 

S.Giovanni  e  fholo 

S.Gnjsostomo 


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del  :  Turohe 
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-    f&ndramui  CbUery/Ju. 
S.Pantalevne 
folixia, 
Ibsta. 

frururm  efbnte  dei  S&spirn, 
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Omnibus pr. 'la.  Strvula  fkrr  W 
Orto  botanico 
Ospedale  curile 
Pal.Pucale 


S.Saioatore 

SocUxi 

Scuola,  di  S  Kocco 

S  Sebasticuw 

Saninario 

S.  Simeons  Piccolo 

S.Stefano 

S.Ketrv  di  Castetto 

S.CiuUano 


VENICE. 


[ITALY.] 


VKMICK. 


commissionaires  will  be  seen,  who  will  es-1  which  it  is  situated  being  dry  at  low  wa- 
cort  the  traveler  into  the  hotel  gondola,   tcr.     Merchant  vessels  usually  moor  off 
take  his  baggage -tickets,  and  procure  his 
baggage.      A  small  fee  for  the  porter. 

Avoid  gondola  omnibuses. 

Venire  is  a  famous  maritime  city  of  Unit- 
ed Italy,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  repub- 
lic of  the  same  name.  Population,  128,901. 
Hotels :  Royal  Danieli,  de  /'Europe,  Grand, 
Grand  Hotel  and  Restaurant  d'ltalie. 

The  Ih'itel  Royal  Danieli,  on  the.  Grant 
Canal,  has  the  reputation  of  being  one  of 
the  first  houses  in  Europe,  and  is  admirably 
fitted  up  and  managed.  It  has  recently 


been  much  enlarged, 
very  good. 


Cooking  and  service 


The  Hotel  de  V Europe,  on   the   Grand  at  Malamacco,  1J  leagues  from  the  city. 


Canal,   is   an   old-established    first  -  class 
house,  enjoying  the  very  best  patronage. 

The  Grand  Hotel  (formerly  .\e>n   fork) 
occupies  a  fine  position  on  the  Grand  ( 'anal, 


Salute ;    managed  by   Messrs.   Wiirms   & 
Mclano. 

The  Grand  Hotel  d'ltalie,  with  restaurant 
and  bath-establishment,  is  situated  on  the 
Grand  Canal,  near  the  Place  St.  Marc,  and 
opposite  the  Church  de  la  Salute ;  well 
managed  by  M.  Bauer  Grunwald. 


The  city  of  Venice,  formerly  called  the 
"  Queen  of  the  Adriatic,"  is  unrivaled  as  to 
beauty  and  situation.  It  stands  on  a  bay 
near  the  Gulf  of  Venice.  In  this  gulf,  or 
Adriatic  Sea,  the  ceremony  of  espousing 
the  Adriatic  took  place  annually  on  Ascen- 
sion Day.  It  was  performed  by  the  Doge, 
accompanied  by  all  the  nobility  and  em- 
bassadors  in  gondolas,  dropping  into  the 
sea  a  ring  from  his  Bucentaur  or  state 
barge.  This  ceremony  was  omitted  for 
the  first  time  in  many  centuries  in  1797. 

Venice  is  situated  upon  72  islands.  Its 
peculiar  formation  renders  it  singularly 
attractive.  The  islands  upon  which  the 
city  is  built  lie  in  the  midst  of  exten- 
sive lagoons,  which  surround  it  on  all 
sides.  The  access  to  the  city  is  very 
difficult^  a  great  portion  of  the  lavroon  on 


the  ducal  palace ;  sometimes,  however, 
they  come  into  the  Grand  Canal,  which  in- 
tersects the  city.  In  consequence  of  the 
chain  of  long  narrow  islands,  which  bound 
the  lagoon  on  the  side  next  the  sea,  being 
in  part  broken  away,  the  republic  during 
the  last  century  was  obliged  to  construct  a 
mole  several  miles  in  length,  to  protect  tho 
>-ity  and  port  from  storms  and  the  swells 
of  the  Adriatic.  This  vast  work  is  ad- 
mired for  its  extent  and  solidit}'.  ^  i3 
formed  of  blocks  of  Istrian  marble,  and 
connects  various  little  islands  and  towns. 
The  principal  pilot  -  station  for  ships  is 


There  is  a  bar  outside  of  Malamacco,  on 
which  there  is  not  more  than  10  feet  of  wa- 
ter at  spring  tides.  On  arriving  at  the 
bar,  ships  are  conducted  across  it  and  into 


with  southern  exposure,  close  to  the  Piazza  ports  by  pilots,  whose  services  must  be 
San  Marco,  and  opposite  the  Church  de  la  availed  of. 


The  Grand  Canal,  which  takes  a  serpen- 
tine course  through  the  city,  is  intersected 
by  146  smaller  canals,  over  which  there 
are  306  bridges,  which,  being  very  steep, 
and  intended  only  for  foot-passengers,  aro 
cut  into  steps  on  cither  side.  These  ca- 
nals, crossed  by  bridges,  form  the  water- 
streets  of  Venice,  the  greater  part  of  the 
intercourse  of  the  city  being  carried  on 
by  means  of  gondolas.  The  gondola  sup- 
plies the  place  of  coaches,  as  carriage  and 
even  horseback  riding  is  wholly  out  of  the 
question  here,  the  streets  being  so  very 
narrow,  not  usually  over  4  or  5  feet  in 
width,  with  the  exception  of  the  Meroeria, 
which  is  from  12  to  20  feet  across,  in  tho 
centre  of  the  city,  which  is  lined  on  either 
side  with  handsome  stores.  The  gondola 
is  therefore  the  mode  of  conveyance ;  it 
cuts  its  way  so  rapidly  through  the  water 
that  in  a  short  time  you  may  be  able  to 
visit  every  part  of  the  city.  They  are 
long,  narrow,  light  vessels,  painted  black, 
according  to  an  ancient  law,  containing  in 
the  centre  a  cabin  nicely  fitted  up  with 
glass  windows,  blinds,  cushions,  etc. ;  those 
belonging  to  private  families  are  much 
more  richly  decorated.  One  gondolier  is 
generally  considered  sufficient,  and  the 
price  is  then  four  lire  per  day,  but  double 
that  fare  for  two  rowers.  The  most  pleas- 
ant and  healthy  portion  of  Venice  is  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Grand  Canal,  which  is 
759 


VENICE. 


[ITALY.] 


YEWICE. 


broad  and  deep,  on  either  side  of  which  are 
magnificent  palaces  and  churches.  This 
canal,  which  varies  from  100  to  180  feet  in 
width,  is  crossed  by  the  principal  bridge 
of  the  city,  the  famous  Rialto,  which  was 
built  of  marble  by  Antonio  da  1'onte  in 
1591,  and,  like  other  bridges  of  Venice,  has 
etairs,  by  which  people  ascend  on  one  side 
and  descend  on  the  other.  The  view  from 
this  bridge  is  remarkably  fine ;  the  beau- 
ties of  Grecian  architecture  meet  the  eye 
of  the  stranger  on  whichever  side  he  feels 
disposed  to  turn.  It  is  89  feet  in  the  span, 
and  is  divided  into  three  parts,  a  narrow 
street  running  through  the  centre,  with 
shops  on  either  side,  and  two  still  narrow- 
er between  the  shops  and  balustrade.  Its 
appearance  is  heavy,  and  by  no  means 
merits  the  great  fame  and  attention  which 
it  has  excited. 

The  manufactures  of  Venice  are  much 
more  various  than  many  persons  suppose. 
The  Glass-works,  situated  on  the  island  of 
Murano,  employing  about  400  hands  (in- 
cluding females,  who  are  engaged  in  ar- 
ranging beads),  produces  magnificent  mir- 
rors, artificial  pearls,  colored  beads,  etc. 
Gold  chains,  and  every  variety  of  jewelry, 
is  also  produced  extensively,  together  with 
gold  and  silver  materials,  velvets,  silks, 
laces,  and  other  valuable  goods.  Printing 
is  very  extensively  carried  on  here ;  the 
fame  which  Venice  early  acquired  in  this 
respect  is  familiar  to  every  scholar,  and 
the  classics  that  issued  from  the  Aldlne 
presses  are  still  admired  for  their  correct- 
ness and  beauty.  Ship-building  is  carried 
on  to  some  extent  both  here  and  at  Chioz- 
za.  The  first  steam-engine  seen  in  Ven- 
ice was  set  up  for  a  sugar-refinery  in  1836. 
The  Venetians,  in  the  15th  centu^-,  at- 
tempted new  arts  at  a  time  when  they 
were  unknown  in  other  parts  of  Europe. 
They  also  attended  to  the  extension  and 
improvement  of  navigation. 

The  policy  of  government  was  fatal  to 
the  progressive  advancement  of  manufac- 
tures, although  favorable  to  their  introduc- 
tion, the  severest  penalties  being  inflicted 
upon  the  importers  of  foreign  domestic 
commodities  into  the  territory.  There  was 
nothing  to  fear  from  foreign  competition, 
and  consequently  nothing  to  stimulate  in- 
vention or  discovery.  The  Venetian  gov- 
ernment was  so  jealous  of  foreigners  that 
they  issued  the  severest  laws,  and  also 
760 


enforced  them  with  respect  to  their  own 
workmen.  "  If  any  workman  carry  his 
art  to  a  foreign  country,  to  the  prejudice 
of  the  republic,  he  shall  be  ordered  to  re- 
turn ;  if  he  do  not  obey,  his  nearest  rela- 
tives shall  be  imprisoned,  that  his  regard 

'  for  them  n»ay  induce  him  to  return,  which 
if  he  doe?,  he  shall  be  forgiven,  and  employ- 
ment again  provided  for  him  ;  if,  in  dc- 

;  spite  of  the  imprisonment  of  his  relatives, 
he  perseveres  in  his  absence,  an  'emissary 

•  shall  be  employed  to  dispatch  him ;'  and, 
after  his  death,  his  relatives  shall  be  set 

|  free." 

In  consequence  of  having  no  competi- 

'  tion  to  encourage  them,  the  manufacturers 
of  Venice  during  the  last  century  wore 
more  remarkable  for  their  perfection  than 
the  extent  to  which  they  were  carried. 

j  In  1830  Venice  was  made  a  free  port,  and 
most  of  the  articles  for  the  use  of  the  citi- 
zens are  admitted  free  of  duty.  She  also 
carries  on  a  considerable  trade  with  differ- 
ent parts  of  Greece.  Previous  to  1830, 
Trieste  was  encouraged,  in  point  of  trade, 
in  preference  to  Venice,  and  still  continues 
in  the  ascendency.  By  far  the  greater 
portion  of  the  import  and  export  trade  of 
the  city  is  carried  on  through  Trieste  by 
coasting  vessels  that  are  every  day  pass- 
ing between  the  two  cities.  Many  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Venice  get  their  living  by 
fishing  in  the  lagoon  and  the  contiguous 
portion  of  the  Adriatic.  Independent  of 
the  fishing-boats,  there  are  about  30,000 
tons  of  shipping,  of  which  a  large  propor- 
tion is  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade. 

Venice  was  the  earliest,  and,  for  a  long 
time,  the  most  extensive  commercial  city 
in  modern  Europe.  Her  origin  dates  from 
the  invasion  of  Italy  by  Attila  in  452. 
Many  of  the  inhabitants  of  Aquileia  and  the 
adjoining  territory  were  compelled  to  fly 
from  the  ravages  of  the  barbarians  to  the 
cluster  of  small  islands  on  which  the  city 
is  built,  opposite  the  rnouth  of  the  Brenta. 
They  were  then  compelled  to  cultivate  com- 
merce and  its  subsidiary  arts  as  a  means 
of  subsistence.  In  the  15th  century  Ven- 
ico  was  considered  by  far  the  richest  and 
most  magnificent  city  of  Europe,  with  the 
single  exception  of  Rome ;  and  those  who 
visited  her  were  impressed  with  still  high- 
er notions  of  her  grandeur,  on  account  of 
her  singular  situation  in  the  midst  of  the 
sea.  It  has  been  represented  as  a  delight- 


VKNII-H. 


[ITALY.] 


VENICE. 


ful  place  to  reside  in.  At  first,  no  doubt 
the  novelty  gratifies  and  pleases.  but  it  is 
too  monotonous  to  be  a  favorite  residence 
for  any  length  of  time.  The  streets  being 
very  narrow,  the  knowledge  that  you  are 
dependent  upon  boats  to  carry  you  about, 
and  the  want  of  rural  beauty,  makes  out- 
weary  of  the  scene.  The  saltness  of  the 
water  and  the  ehan.-es  of  tide  make  it 
more  endurable  than  it  otherwise  would 
be.  If  the  water  was  fresh  it  would  be 
uninhabitable.  There  were  formerly  no 
'springs  or  wells,  and  the  inhabitants  were 
compelled  to  use  the  water  collected  in  cis- 
terns from  the  tops  of  the  houses ;  but  in 
I.--!"  artesian  wells  were  constructed,  which 
afford  an  abundant  and  more  agreeable 
supply.  The  Venetians  arc  improving 
their  taste  for  the  cultivation  of  fruit,  flow- 
ers, etc.  Very  extensive  gardens,  con- 
structed by  the  French,  excite  much  admi- 
ration, from  the  peculiar  manner  in  which 
they  are  formed;  the  serpentine  walks, 
fine  trees,  shrubbery,  different  views  of 
the  islands  and  lagoons,  make  this  an 
agreeable  and  interesting  promenade. 

The  houses  occupied  by  the  upper  clos- 
es are  from  three  to  four  stories  high,  gen- 
erally built  square,  and  have  two  entran- 
ce.*, one  on  the  Grand  Canal  and  the  other 
on  the  street.  Some  of  the  finest  palace* 
are  built  of  marble  ;  the  rooms  occupied 
by  the  family  are  frequently  small  and 
badly  ventilated,  in  consequence  of  setting 
apart  the  most  desirable  portions  for  the 
exhibition  of  statuary,  paintings,  and  oth- 
er works  of  art.  Venice  is  a  very  reason- 
able place  to  reside  in :  rents  are  low,  and 
living  uncommonly  cheap  ;  society  is  pleas- 
ing and  unrestrained,  and  foreigners  are 
well  received,  and  arc  usually  much 
pleased.  The  manners  and  morals  of  the 
Venetians  have  been  very  much  mi.-con- 
strued  and  exaggerated,  and  what  was 
merely  holiday  amusement  was  deemed 
by  some  to  l>c  corruption  of  morals. 

Piazza  >V;n  Marco  is  of  an  oblong  form, 
600  feet  by  300:  it  is  the  only  open  space 
of  any  magnitude,  and,  with  the  piazzetta 
leading  to  it,  forms  the  state  entrance  to 
Venice  from  the  sea.  On  one  side  is  the 
old  palace  of  the  doges,  on  the  other  the 
mint  and  library  of  St.  Mark  :  the  archi- 
tecture is  regular,  fresh,  and  modern,  and 
forms  a  striking  contrast  to  that  of  its 
neighbors.  Two  magnificent  granite  col-  : 


umns,  each  of  a  single  block,  one  bearing 
tin-  statue  of  St.  Theodore,  protector  of 
the  republic,  and  the  other  crowned  with 
the  winged  lion  of  St.  Mark,  stand  on  the 
fourth  side  of  the  piaz/etta,  on  tl. 
shore.  Public-  executions  formerly  took 
place,  between  these  two  columns.  On 
two  of  its  sides  are  regular  buildings  with 
arcades;  on  the  north  is  the  long  row  of 
buildings  called  the  J'rocuratie  I'ecckia,  on 
the  soutli  the  Prucuratie  Auore  and  Li- 
braria  Vtcchia.  The  Piazza  and  neighbor- 
ing buildings  are  frequented  daily  at  the 
hour  of  two,  simultaneous  with  the  striking 
of  the  great  cl..ck  of  the  Torre  dell  Oro- 
logio,  by  a  l.trgo  Hock  of  pigeons,  which  is 
fed  at  that  place  at  the  expense  of  gov- 
ernment (so  it  is  said  by  some  authors); 
and,  although  government  receives  the 
credit  of  it.  yet,  as  the  story  runs,  they  are 
fed  and  cared  for  by  the  liberality  of  an 
old  lady,  widowed  and  childless,  who  left  a 
large  amount  to  be  expended  for  this  pur- 
pose, she  having  been  much  interested  in 
their  welfare  during  her  life. 

The  church  of  St.  Geminianowus  former- 
ly situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  piaz- 
zetta,  but  its  place  is  now  occupied  by  the 
staircase  of  the  imperial  palace.  The 
Cnthfilral  of  8t.  Mark,  the  Orulgia.  ar.d 
Campanile  stand  on  the  opposite  end :  there 
arc  three  high  poles  in  front  of  the  Cathe- 
dral, from  which  were  formerly  displayed 
the  flags  of  Morea,  Crete,  and  Cyprus,  of 
which  the  republic  was  mistress  about  the 
middle  of  the  loth  century,  v  hen  Moham- 
med II.,  the  Turkish  sultan,  entered  Con- 
stantinople and  placed  himself  on  the  throne 
of  ( 'on»tantinc  and  Justinian.  The  square, 
being  the  only  open  place  of  any  size  in 
Venice,  is  a  celebrated  promenade,  and  is 
the  scene  of  masquerades  and  festivals. 

The  number  of  fine  private  residences  is 
quite  large,  mostly  built  on  heavy  piles  or 
ma-.-ive  structure;  they  are,  however,  with 
the  exception  of  those  built  by  Palladio, 
Sansovino,  Scamozx.i,  and  a  few  other  emi- 
nent architects,  devoid  of  good  taste,  and 
are  more  remarkable  for  their  gorgeous 
style  and  great  display  :  they  are  general- 
ly a  mixture  of  Kastern.  Koman. and  Gothic 
architecture.  Many  of  the  ancient  man- 
sions have  been  pulled  down,  and  tl 
mostly  deserted.  The  singularity  of  style 
in  many  of  the  buildings  is  peculiarly  at- 
tractive. 

761 


VENICE. 


[ITALY.} 


VENICE 


Church  of  San  Marco,  converted  into  a 
cathedral  in  1807,  previous  to  which  time 
it  was  the  Ducal  Chapel,  founded  by  the 
Doge  Giustiniuni  Participazio  in  the  year 
829.  In  consequence  of  his  death  it  was 
left  unfinished;  his  heirs,  however,  finish- 
ed it,  and  it  was  destroyed  by  the  confla- 
gration of  976.  In  977  the  present  ediii'.-e 
was  founded  by  Pietro  Orseolo  I.,  the  suc- 
cessor of  Candiano,  whose  life  and  reign 
terminated  at  the  time  of  the  conflagration. 
It  was  not  completed,  however,  until  the 
n.'ign  of  Domenico  Contarini,  1043.  In 
1071  the  Doge  Domenico  Salvo  added 
many  precious  ornaments,  and  mosaics  in 
particular.  It  was  designed  by  architects 
from  Constantinople,  and  is  a  mixture  of 
Grecian  and  Roman  architecture.  The 
nave  is  243  feet  in  length,  the  transept  200 ; 
the  centre  dome  is  92  feet  in  height,  and 
the  other  four  81  feet  each.  It  is  built  in 
the  form  of  a  Greek  cross :  width  of  the 
front  is  171  feet,  height  73.  Nearly  600 
pillars  support  the  decorations  inside  and 
outside  of  this  building ;  they  were  brought 
from  Greece,  and  are  of  marble :  it  seems 
a  large  number  to  be  crowded  into  so  small 
a  space.  The  finishings  are  in  the  Italian 
Gothic  style  of  the  15th  century,  but  are 
not  light  and  graceful ;  the  scarcity  of 
windows  gives  the  building  a  gloomy  ap-  ; 
pearance.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  front 
are  five  arched  doorways,  each  adorned 
with  a  double  row  of  little  columns  ;  over  : 
these  arches  in  the  gallery  of  marble  are 
the  famous  Bronze  Horses  of  Chian  origin, 
carried  to  Constantinople  by  Theodosiu?. 
from  whence  they  were  removed  by  the 
Venetians  in  1206,  when  they  plundered  '• 
the  capital  of  the  Eastern  empire ;  they  ; 
crowned  the  triumphal  arch  in  the  Place  1 
dii  Carrousel,  in  Paris,  from  1797  to  1815, 
at  which  time  they  were  restored.  In  the 
outer  walls  are  inserted  tablets  of  ancient 
sculpture  of  different  nations  and  ages ; 
one  on  the  north  side  represents  Proserpine 
in  a  chariot  drawn  by  two  dragons,  and 
holding  in  either  hand  a  torch.  In  the 
corner  near  the  Ducal  Palace,  attractive 
from  their  color  and  position,  is  a  group  of 
four  full-length  figures  in  red  porphyry, 
the  origin  of  which  is  not  exactly  known. 
Five  large  mosaics  are  placed  over  the 
doorways :  the  first  on  the  right  is  a  de- 
sign by  Pietro  Vecchio,  executed  in  1650 ; 
the  subject  represented  is  the  body  of  St. 
762 


Mark  being  removed  from  the  tomb  at 
Alexandria.  The  Last  Judgment  occu- 
pies the  next  place ;  a  design,  dated  1728, 
representing  the  Venetian  magistrates  ven- 
erating the  body  of  St.  Mark.  The  last, 
and  probably  the  most  ancient  of  these 
mosaics,  represents  the  church  of  St.  Mark, 
Above  these  are  four  other  mosaics,  the 
subjects  of  which  are  the  Taking  down  from 
the  Cross,  Descent  into  Hades,  the  Resurj 
rection,  and  the  Ascension.  By  the  cen- 
tral portal  as  you  enter  the  vestibule  is  a  • 
small  piece  of  reddish  marble,  indicating 
the  spot  where  Pope  Alexander  III.  and 
the  Emperor  Frederick  Barbarossa  were, 
througli  the  interposition  of  the  Venetian 
republic,  reconciled  on  the  23d  of  July, 
1177.  The  vaulting,  and  many  portions 
;  of  the  wall,  are  covered  with  rich  marbles 
I  and  mosaics  ;  the  columns  are  of  verd-an- 
tique  and  porphyry  ;  the  pavement  is  com- 
posed of  small  pieces  of  white  and  colored 
marble,  agate,  jasper,  etc.,  and  is  beautiful- 
ly arranged.  Over  the  centre  door  of  the 
church  is  a  mosaic  representing  St.  Mark 
in  pontifical  robes,  executed  by  the  broth- 
ers Zuccati  in  1545;  the  Crucifixion  oppo- 
site by  the  same ;  they  also  executed  the 
Eight  Prophets,  the  Four  Evangelists,  the 
Resurrection  of  Lazarus,  and  the  Annun- 
ciation. The  magnificent  tomb  of  Cardi- 
nal Zeno,  from  the  design  of  Alessandro 
Leopardi,  is  situated  in  the  Zeno  Chapel,  on 
the  right  of  the  vestibule.  In  the  north 
corridor  is  the  ancient  bas-relief  of  Christ 
surrendered  by  the  twelve  apostles,  and 
the  monument  of  the  Doge  Marino  Moro- 
sini.  The  walls  of  the  interior  are  of  pre- 
cious marble.  A  mosaic  of  the  Virgin  of 
St.  Mark  is  over  the  central  door ;  by  the 
door,  on  the  right,  the  basin  for  holy-water 
is  placed,  composed  of  porphyry,  supported 
by  a  Greek  altar.  Farther  on  to  the  right 
is  situated  the  Baptittery,  executed  in  the 
14th  century  ;  the  granite  slab  upon  which 
our  Savior  is  supposed  to  have  stood  when 
he  preached  to  the  inhabitants  of  Tyre, 
brought  from  that  city  in  1126,  forms  the 
altar  table.  The  monument  of  the  last 
doge,  Andrea  Dandolo,  who  died  in  1554, 
and  was  interred  in  St.  Mark's,  stands 
against  the  wall ;  the  Gothic  tomb  was 
erected  to  the  Doge  Soranza.  Chapel  of 
the  Holy  Cross  by  the  north  transept ;  one 
of  the  columns  which  support  it  is  of  a  rare 
specimen  of  black  and  white  granite. 


VENICE. 


[ITALY.] 


VEHICB. 


Chapd  <]fthf  Madonna  di  Mnscnli,  at  the 
end  of  the  north  transept,  contains  the 
statues  of  the  Madonna.  St.  Mark,  ami  mar- 
ble altar  from  the  design  of  Nicola  Pisano ; 
it  also  contains  the  Hi.-u.ry  of  the  Virgin 
in  mosaics.  Parted  from  tin-  nave  by  a 
rich  screen,  after  the  Greek  fashion,  is  the 
choir,  which,  with  its  divisions,  rise  in 
triple  ascent;  fourteen  statues,  executed 
by  Jacobello  and  Pietro  Paolo  dalle  Ma- 
senge  in  1392,  surmount  it;  statue  of  Christ 
in  silver  is  placed  over  the  centre.  In  the 
presbytery  is  the  high  altar,  supported  by 
four  columns,  with  Latin  inscriptions,  and 
covered  with  sculpture  ;  the  events  of  Gos- 
pel history,  from  the  Marriage  of  St.  Anna  ' 
to  the  Ascension,  are  inscribed  upon  the 
columns.  Eight  bronze  statues  of  the  four 
Doctors,  by  Sansovino,  and  the  four  Evan- 
gelists, stand  at  the  sides  of  the  altar.  One 
of  the  most  attractive  features  is  the  Pala 
d'Oro,  a  remarkable  specimen  of  Byzantine 
art,  the  linest  that  now  exists,  made  at  Con- 
stantinople in  '.'77.  under  the  direction  of  , 
Do^e  1'ietro  Ors?olo.  The  Doge  Ordelofo 
Faliero  had  it  repaired  in  1100:  it  was  re- 
paired again  in  1280  by  Pietro  Zani,  and  in 
1544  by  Andrea  Dandolo. 

The  Sacristy,  entered  by  a  door  at  the 
side  of  the  altar ;  Sansovino  was  employed 
twenty  years  on  this  same  door.  The 
roof  is  covered  with  rich  mosaics,  the  prin- 
cipal of  which  are  St.  Theodore  and  St.  ; 
George.  From  the  south  transept  opens  a  j 
door  into  the  Treasury  of  St.  Mark;  it  is 
kept  locked,  and,  unless  by  particular  per- 
mission, can  only  be  seen  on  Fridays  at 
noon.  It  contains  many  precious  relics, 
rich  jewelry,  and  a  piece  of  our  Savior's 
dress. 

Torre  delC  Oroloyio,  or  Clock-tower,  sit- 
uated on  the  right  as  you  leave  St.  Mark, 
was  designed  by  Pietro  Lombardo  in  14;i4. 
The  two  upper  stories  are  decorated  with 
the  Virgin  in  gilt  bronze,  and  the  Lion  of 
St.  Mark.  It  was  struck  by  lightning  in 
17")' i.  and  restored  in  1755  by  Ferracina  of 
•10.  The  entrance  to  the  Merceria, 
where  the  principal  shops  are,  and  the 
most  trade  carried  on,  passes  beneath  this 
clock-tower.  Beyond  the  tower,  forming 
nearly  the  whole  of  the  Piazza  of  St.  Mark, 
stands,  upon  51  arches,  the  Procurntie  I'ec- 
chie,  which  was  intended  for  the  residence 
of  the  procurateurs  of  St.  Mark,  who  were 
among  the  most  important  personages  of 


the  republic.  It  was  erected  by  Barto- 
lomeo  Buona  da  Bergamo  in  1516.  The 
procurator;  were  honest  and  good  man- 
agers. From  this  body  the  Doge  was  gen- 
erally elected.  The  office  was  for  life ; 
and  on  the  decline  of  the  republic  many 
of  the  offices  were  sold  to  benefit  the  state. 
The  old  nobility  paid  30,000  ducats,  and 
the  new  100,000.  In  consequence  of  the 
increase  of  numbers,  the  Procuratie  Nuovc 
was  erected ;  it  is  now  the  Royal  Palace, 
and  is  a  rich  liae  of  buildings,  fronted  aft- 
er the  Grecian  style.  At  the  time  the  ad- 
dition was  made  to  the  palace  the  Church 
of  San  Geminiano  was  entirely  destroyed. 
This  was  one  of  Sansovino's  best  works, 
and  was  likewise  his  burial-place. 

Libraria  Vccchie  occupies  the  west  side 
of  the  Piazzetta,  and  is  united  to  the  build- 
ing of  the  Piazza.  It  contains  a  great 
manj'  valuable  books,  among  which  are  a 
fine  copy  of  Sophocles,  Iliad  complete,  a 
great  part  of  Odyssey,  and  a  MS.  of  Ho- 
mer, and  nearly  all  the  works  of  Cicero. 
The  library  was  increased  to  a  great  extent 
by  the  presentation  of  valuable  works  from 
Cardinal  Grimani,  Cardinal  Bessarion,  and 
others.  In  1811,  120,000  volumes  and 
10,000  MSS.  were  transferred  to  the  line 
saloon  in  the  ducal  palace  from  the  Libra- 
ria  Vecchie. 

Library  of  St.  Mark,  a  magnificent  struc- 
ture of  Ionic  and  Doric  architecture.  On 
the  ground  floor  is  a  portico  consisting  of 
20  arcades,  decorated  with  columns;  in 
the  interior  are  arches,  many  of  which  are 
used  for  shops.  The  ornaments  in  the 
hall  which  contains  the  books  are  in  stuc- 
co, and  there  are  also  some  fine  paintings. 

The  Mint  is  situated  on  the  Molo  and  at- 
tached to  the  library  :  it  also  is  of  the  Doric 
and  Ionic  order,  and  was  built  in  153<l  by 
Sansovino.  The  gold  coin  of  the  republic, 
the  zecchino,  derived  its  name  from  this 
establishment.  Titian's  Madonna  in  fres- 
co, the  figure  of  Apollo,  and  portraits  by- 
Tintoretto,  adorn  the  different  rooms. 

The  square  piers  of  St.  John  of  A  ere, 
covered  with  Latin  inscriptions  dated  as 
far  back  as  the  7th  century,  are  situated  at 
the  opposite  end  of  the  Piaz/.etta  :  also  a 
column  of  red  porphyry,  from  which  the 
republican  laws  were  promulgated,  called 
the  Pie/ro  del  Bando. 

The  Campanile,  or  bell-tower,  near  the 
Piazzetta  and  Piazza,  is  320  feet  high,  and 
763 


VENICE. 


[ITALY.] 


VENICE. 


was  commenced  in  903 ;  the  belfry  was 
built  in  1509.  At  particular  times  the  bell 
is  r-truck  liy  the  watchman,  who  resides  in 
it.  '1  he  whole  tower  is  surmounted  by  a 
high  pyramid  —  view  magnificent.  The 
Loggia  around  the  base  of  the  tower  is  or- 
namented by  statues  of  Mercury,  1'allas, 
Apollo,  and  Peace  :  was  built  in  1541.  Be- 
neath the  bronze  st.itues  are  two  lias-reliefs, 
Leander  assisted  by  Tethys,  and  the  Fall 
of  Helle  from  the  Ram  of  Phryxus. 

Pnltizzo  Ducale,  or  D< g->'s  Palace,  east  of 
the  Piazzetta.  It  is  open  to  visitors  ev- 
ery day.  including  Sundays,  from  9  until  4. 
The  first  palace  erected  on  this  spot  was 
in  the  9th  century,  but  the  present  edifice 
•was  built  by  the  Doge  Marino  Faliero  in 
the  14th.  There  are  eight  gates  by  which 
it  is  entered,  the  principal  leading  into  the 
Cortile,  around  which  are  two  stories  of 
arcades.  A  double  row  of  arches  support 
an  immense  wall  of  brick-work,  in  which 
are  a  few  windows.  The  unity  of  design 
and  grandeur  of  dimensions  give  an  impo- 
sing effect  to  the  structure,  although  many 
defects  are  visible. 

Giant's  Staircase,  a  noble  flight  of  steps 
erected  by  A.  Rizzo  in  1482.  leads  up  from 
the  Cortile  to  the  Arcade,  underneath  which 
the  so-called  "lion's  mouth"  gaped  to  receive 
communications  of  plots  against  the  state. 
It  derives  its  name  from  the  statues  of 
Mars  and  Neptune  which  stand  on  either 
pide  of  the  staircase  at  the  top.  The  arch- 
es and  steps  are  exquisitely  inlaid  with 
marble.  The  doges  were  crowned  at  the 
head  of  these  stairs.  The  statues  of  Adam 
and  Eve  are  considered  magnificent  spe- 
cimens of  the  Veneto -  Lombard  school. 
Busts  of  celebrated  Venetians,  such  as 
Tintoretto,  Lazzaro  More.  Enrico  Dando- 
lo,  Marco  Polo,  etc.,  are  placed  round  the  : 
upper  colonnade.  In  the  court-yard  are  j 
two  bronze  openings  of  wells,  one  executed 
in  1559,  the  other  in  1556.  Left  of  the  Gi- 
ant's Staircase,  a  facade  of  two  stories  forms 
a  side  of  the  Corte  di  Senator! ;  opposite 
the  top  of  the  staircase  is  an  inscription 
commemorating  the  visit  of  Henry  III.  of 
France  to  Venice  in  1573;  on  the  left  of 
the  Corridor  Loggia,  by  which  three  sides 
of  the  court  are  surrounded,  is  the  Scala 
d'Ora,  or  great  staircase.  The  S/anze 
dffj'i  Avroyndori,  just  l>eyond  the  staircase, 
is  where  was  preserved  in  former  times 
the  roll  of  Venetian  aristocracy.  A  sec- 
764 


ond  flight  of  stairs  farther  on  leads  to  the 
library  ;  through  the  door  on  the  left,  after 
i^c.-nding  the  t-tairs,  you  pass  into  the  suite 
of  rooms  on  the  Molo  and  Piazzetta :  the 
first  room,  or  antechamber,  is  tilled  with 
books ;  from  this  yon  enter  into  the  read- 
ing-room,  which  contains  10,000  choice 
M>S.  and  many  line  miniatures.  It  con- 
tains also  the  first  book  printed  in  Venice, 
in  lit!:'.  <"/«  ,•<,  nd  j\imi  itiriit ;  the  will  of 
Marco  Polo,  1373;  and  many  other  rare  cu- 
riosities. The  door  opposite  the  antero<  m 
lead*  into  the  Sola  del  Maggioi*  Con.-i'j '< '•••; 
the  hall,  17 (i  ft.  long,  85  ft.  broad,  and  52 
ft.  high,  is  very  mavniticent.  It  was  paint- 
ed by  Tintoretto,  Paul  Veronese,  Titian, 
and  Bellini.  After  its  completion  in  1:;:U, 
that  and  the  adjoining  one,  Dello  Scrutiny, 
were  destroyed  1  y  lire  in  1577.  It  is  now 
the  Bibliotheca  di  San  Marco,  and  is  open 
from  nine  until  four  everyday  (except  cer- 
tain feast-days),  including  Sundays.  '1  he 
paintings  which  adorn  this  hall  of  the 
Great  Council  are  among  the  earliest  ;:nd 
largest  specimens  of  oil-paintings  on  can- 
vas. 

At  the  east  end  of  this  hall  is  the  im- 
pressive and  magnificent  painting  of  Par- 
adise. It  is  immensely  large,  84  feet  in 
width  and  33 \  feet  in  height,  painted  by 
Tintoretto ;  also  the  Embassadors  meeting 
Frederick  II.  at  Pavia,  praying  to  him 
for  restoration  of  peace  to  Italy  and  the 
Church;  the  second  Conquest  of  Constan- 
tinople by  the  Crusade  rs  and  Venetians  in 
1201  :  the  great  naval  battle  which  took 
place  in  Istria  at  the  time  the  imperial 
fleet  was  defeated,  and  Otho,  the  emper- 
or's son,  taken  prisoner ;  Pope  Alexander 
III.  discovered  secreted  in  the  Conventof 
La  Carita,  when  escaping  from  Frederick 
II.  in  1177 ;  the  Pope  presenting  the  light- 
ed taper  to  the  Doge  ;  the  Doge  departing 
from  Venice,  and  is  receiving  the  blessing 
of  the  Pope ;  the  Emperor  submitting  to 
the  Pope ;  Alexis  Comnenus,  son  of  the 
dethroned  Emperor  of  Constantinople,  im- 
ploring the  Venetians  to  aid  him  in  his 
father's  behalf;  the  return  of  the  Doge 
Contarini,  after  the  victory  gained  over  the 
Genoese  at  Chioggia  in  137*  by  the  Vene- 
tians ;  Paul  Veronese's  painting  of  .Venice 
amid  the  clouds  crowned  with  glory,  near 
the  great  picture  of  Paradise  :  an  oblong 
painting  by  Tintoretto,  divided  into  two 
parts :  in  the  upper  portion  Venice  is  rep- 


VENICE. 


[ITALY.] 


VEKICE. 


resented  among  the  deities ;  below  is  the 
Doge  da  Ponte  and  senators  receiving  from 
the  cities  the  deputation  who  wi.-h  to  ten- 
der allegiance  to  the  republic :  the  cele- 
brated  frieze  of  portraits  of  the  72  doges 
around  the  hall,  commencing  from  the 
year  si;<.».  \vith  the  span-  which  should  have 
"been  occupied  by  Marino  Faliero  covered 
by  the  black  veil,  and  on  it  the  well-known 
inscription  :  these  were  mostly  painted  by 
lintoretto. 

.'  </  I 'ft  Xcrutinio,  connected  with  the 
hall  by  a  corridor :  the  41  nobles  were 
elected  formerly  in  this  hall,  and  they  nom- 
inated the  Doge.  The  large  painting, 
which  is  situated  opposite  to  the  entrance, 
represents  a  triumphal  arch  erected  to  Fran- 
cesco Mon.»ini.  Bunuunod  II  Peloponessi- 
aco.  in  1G94;  opposite  to  this  arch  is  one 
of  Palma  Giovane's  finest  works,  the  Last 
Judgment.  The  portrait  of  the  last  doge, 
Ludovico  Manini,  has  been  placed  in  this 
apartment,  in  which  the  frieze  was  contin- 
ued and  concluded.  In  the  middle  of  the 
ceiling  is  a  historical  painting  representing 
the  capture  of  Padua  from  the  Carraras  in 
1405.  Returning  to  the  spot  from  which 
we  entered  the  library  is  a  door  on  the  left 
which  opens  into  the  Archa>ological  Mu- 
seum: the  first  room  contains  many  an- 
cient marbles,  such  as  Esculapius  at  the 
baths  of  Abano,  etc.  Next  to  this  hall  i< 
the  Camera  degli  Scarhiti.  where  were  kept 
the  scarlet  robes  of  the  ^[aggior  Consiylio : 
the  chimney-piece,  which  was  executed  in 
1490  for  Doge  Barberigo.  is  very  attractive. 
The  Doge  Loredano,  at  the  Virgin's  feet, 
is  placed  over  the  door. 

Sola  ddln  Scu<l\  deriving  its  name  from 
the  Doge's  coat  of  arms  being  placed  here 
at  the  time  of  the  election :  maps  drawn 
by  the  great  geographer  Ramusio,  in  the 
16th  century,  are  placed  upon  the  walls : 
the  Mappe  Monde  of  Frate  Mauro,  a  monk 
of  the  convent  of  St.  Michael,  is  now  among 
the  collection  :  it  was  composed  for  Al- 
phonso  V..  king  of  Portugal.  Another  cu- 
riosity i*  tho  Turkish  map.  in  the  form  of 
a  heart,  by  Hadji  Mahomed  in  1559:  also 
the  block  which  it  was  struck  from,  cap- 
tured by  the  Venetians  in  a  galley  in  which 
it  was  found.  At  tho  entrance  of  the  Sala 
della  Bussola,  the  anteroom  of  the  Council 
of  Ten.  is  the  Lion's  Ifouth,  celebrated  for 
being  the  receptacle  of  the  "secret  denun- 
ciations." 


The  Chapel,  which  was  merely  used  as  a 
private  oratory,  is  noted  for  little  besides 
the  altar  and  a  Madonna  and  Child :  the 
only  fresco  painting  remaining  in  Venice 
is  by  Titian,  and  placed  in  the  stairway  of 
this  chapel,  tiakt  del  CuUeg:o,  in  which 
foreign  embassadors  were  received  by  the 
Doge  and  his  privy  council.  Ante  Collegia, 
containing  four  of  Tintoretto's  best  paint- 
ings— the  Forge  of  Vulcan,  Mercury  and 
the  Graces,  Ariadne  crowned  by  Venus, 
Pallas  driving  away  Mars. 

Sotto  Piombi,  formerly  used  as  prisons, 
in  which  Jacopa  Casanova  was  confined  in 
1775.  Gloomy  and  intricate  passages  lead 
you  to  the  Pozzi,  or  dark  cells,  a  descrip- 
tion of  which  is  given  in  the  notes  to  the 
fourth  canto  of  Childe  Harold.  The  canal 
called  the  Rio  del  Palazzo  separates  the  du- 
cal palace  from  the  public  prisons,  which 
were  built  in  1587,  by  Antonio  da  Pontc : 
more  than  400  prisoners  can  be  accommo- 
dated in  these  buildings. 

Ponte  de'  Sofpiri,  or  "  Bridge  of  Sighs," 
immortalized  by  Byron  in  the  fourth  canto 
of  Childe  Harold:" 
"I  Htoud  in  Venice,  on  the  Bridge  of  Sighs; 
A  pnlace  and  a  prison  on  each  hand  : 
I  saw  from  out  the  waves  her  structures  rise, 
As  from  the  stroke  of  the  enchanter's  wand : 
A  thousand  years  their  cloudy  wings  expand 
Around  me,  and  a  dying  j:lory  smiles 
O'er  the  far  times,  when  many  a  subject  land 
Look'd  to  the  winged  lion's  marble  piles, 
Where  Venice  sate  in  state,  throned  on  her  hun- 
dred i.-le.-." 

Criminals  were  conveyed  across  this  bridge 
to  hear  their  sentence,  and  from  there  led 
to  their  execution  ;  from  this  it  derives  its 
melancholy  but  appropriate  name. 

The  fifth  bridge  which  crosses  the  canal 
conducts  you  to  the  Ar.tenal.  It  opens 
upon  the  port  near  to  St.  Mark's,  and  occu- 
pies an  island  nearly  three  miles  in  circum- 
ference ;  it  is  defended  by  lofty  walls.  In 
front  of  the  entrance,  which  is  guarded  by 
two  towers,  are  four  lions  brought  from  the 
Piraeus- — the  winged  lion  still  frowns  defi- 
ance over  the  gateway.  Among  the  manv 
line  establishments  belonging  to  the  Arse- 
nal is  the  Rope-hf  use.  1000  feet  in  length. 
Placed  in  the  Armory  is  a  beautiful  monu- 
ment representing  Fame  crowning  the  Ve- 
netian admiral  Angelo  F.mo.  by  Canov.i. 
The  Armory  contains  many  curiosities, 
such  as  helmets  and  shields  belonging  to 
Venetian  soldiers  in  the  ancient  times ; 
cross-bows,  quivers  full  of  arrows ;  the  com- 
765 


VENICE. 


[ITALY.] 


VENICE. 


plete  suit  of  Henry  IV.  of  France  ;  spring- 
pistols,  etc. ;  also  a  model  of  the  Bucentaur 
used  ;it  thi'  espousals  of  the  Adriatic.  The 
L>i:y;nia  dfl  Marc,  located  on  the  point  of 
land  which  divides  the  Grand  Canal  from 
the  Giudecca. 

Among  the  palaces  in  Venice,  many  are 
very  attractive.  Palazzo  Foscari,  erected 
at  the  latter  part  of  the  15th  century,  by 
the  same  architect  as  the  Doge's  palace. 
Francis  I.  was  lodged  here  in  1574.  The 
history  of  the  Doge  Foscari  and  his  son 
must  be  familiar  to  every  one;  the  lan- 
guage of  Byron  beautifully  expresses  the 
feeling  of  the  son  while  gazing  upon  the 
land  of  his  birth  from  his  prison  window : 

11  My  bountiful,  my  own, 

My  only  Venice — 'hi*  it  brtath  .'    Thy  breeze, 
Thine  Adrian  .sea-breeze,  how  it  fans  my  face . 
The  very  winds  feel  native  to  my  veins, 
And  cool  them  into  calmness :  how  unlike 
The  hot  gales  of  the  horrid  <'ycl.-nles, 
Which  liowl'd  about  my  Ctmdiotc  dungeon,  aad 
Made  my  heart  sick." 

Palazzo  Pisani  a  S.  Polo,  in  Arabesque 
Gothic  style,  built  early  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury. The  celebrated  "  Family  of  Darius," 
purchased  for  £14,000,  was  in  this  palace; 
the  Kffup  of  Icarius  and  Doedalus,  by  Ca- 
nova,  the  execution  of  which  so  rapidly 
raised  his  reputation,  is  still  here.  The  na- 
val commander,  Vittorio  Pisani,  died  in 
1380,  after  saving  the  republic  from  great 
peril  by  his  skill  and  bravery.  Palazzo 
Grimani,  now  the  post-office.  In  the  Gri- 
mani  family  were  two  doges,  Antonio  and 
Marino.  In  1595,  at  the  time  of  the  elec- 
iion  of  the  latter,  hie  duchess  was  inaugu- 
rated in  splendid  style,  according  to  the 
Venetian  custom ;  she  was  clothed  in  gold 
cloth,  wore  a  gold  crown,  and  was  brought 
to  the  Piazza  of  San  Marco  in  a  bucentaur, 
where  she  was  saluted  with  peals  of  artil- 
lery and  martial  music.  She  was  present- 
ed with  the  golden  rose,  blessed  by  the 
pontiff  every  year,  by  Clement  VIII. ;  it 
was  afterward  taken  from  her  by  order  of 
the  senate,  and  placed  in  t!ic  treasury  of 
St.  Mark.  Palazzo  Manfrini  formerly  con- 
tained, with  the  exception  of  the  Academy, 
the  finest  collection  of  paintings  in  Venice ; 
the  best  of  them  were  sold  in  185G.  One 
of  its  gema  is  now  in  possession  of  F.  P. 
James,  Esq.,  N.York.  Palazzo  Moro,  on  the 
(.'ampo  del  Carmine,  the  supposed  residence 
of  Cristoforo  Moro,  the  Othello  of  Sluik- 
speare.  The  house  formerly  occupied  by 
76G 


Shylock  has  been  converted  into  a  govern- 
ment pawnbroker's  establishment.  Palaz* 
zo  Grimani  a  A'.  Maria  Formosa  is  remark- 
able for  containing  the  colossal  statue  of 
A^rippa,  which  was  formerly  in  the  Pan- 
theon at  Rome. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  palaces  of 
the  15th  century,  adorned  in  the  Eastern 
style,  is  the  Casa  d'  Oro,  now  occupied  by 
Mdlle.  Taglioni.  Palazzo  del  Polo:  here 
resided  the  celebrated  traveler  of  the  13th 
centurj',  Marco  Polo :  he  was  taken  prison- 
er at  Curzola  by  the  Genoese,  and  died  here 
in  1323.  Tintoretto 's  house  was  situated  on 
the  quay  of  the  Campo  dei  Mori,  and  Ti- 
tian's opposite  the  island  of  Murano,  at  a 
place  called  Berigrande. 

CHURCHES. 

Santa  Maria  Gloriosa  de1  Frari,  designed 
by  Nicolo  Pisano  in  1258.  As  we  enter  to 
the  right  is  the  monument  of  Titian,  raised 
at  the  personal  expense  of  the  Emperor 
of  Austria.  Charles  V.  intended  to  have 
erected  a  tomb  over  the  remains  of  this 
great  painter,  but  it  was  left  to  the  Emper- 
or Ferdinand  I.  to  carry  out  the  idea.  The 
monument  was  first  exhibited  in  1853. 
There  is  a  massive  basement,  on  which 
rises  a  canopy  decorated  in  the  Corinthian 
style,  under  which  is  a  statue  of  the  paint- 
er seated,  and  crowned  with  laurel ;  there 
are  small  statues  on  either  side,  and  on  the 
basement  four  others — one  bearing  the  in- 
scription "  Ttiiano  Monumtntum  erectnm  sit 
Ferdinandtu  /.,  1839."  Immediately  op- 
posite to  this  is  the  monument  erected  in 
1827  to  Canova ;  the  design  is  a  duplicate 
of  one  executed  by  himself  for  the  Arch- 
duchess Christina  at  Vienna :  its  beauty  is 
only  rivaled  by  the  original  design.  The 
most  conspicuous  monument  in  the  church 
is  that  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  Doge 
Giovanni  Pesaro  in  1659.  Moors  and  ne- 
groes in  black  marble,  robed  in  white,  sup- 
port it;  the  Doge  sits  in  the  centre.  Over 
a  door  of  the  church,  beyond  the  altar,  is 
a  case  supposed  to  have  contained  the  re- 
mains of  Francisco  Carmagnola,  executed 
in  1432  at  Venice  :  it  is  now  believed,  how- 
ever, that  his  remains  were  carried  to  Mi- 
lan. The  tomb  of  Doge  Nicolo  Tron,  who 
died  in  1472,  is  composed  of  six  stones,  or- 
namented by  19  full-length  figures:  it  is 
70  feet  in  height  and  50  in  width.  The 
monument  of  Benedetto  Pesaro,  the  Ven«- 


VENICE. 


CITALY.] 


VENICE 


tian  general,  decorates  the  door  of  the  sac- 
risty ;  in  the  sacristy  is  a  very  beautiful 
painting  by  Bellini,  of  th«  Madonna  and 
three  Saints:  it  also  contains  the  Cruci- 
fixion and  Burial  of  the  Savior  in  high  re- 
lief. Over  the  Pesaro  altar,  in  the  chapel 
of  St.  Peter,  is  a  painting  by  Titian,  repre- 
senting the  Virgin  seated  in  a  lofty  p tui- 
tion, surrounded  by  magnificent  architect- 
ure, with  our  Savior  in  her  arms  turning 
to  St.  Francis  :  St.  Peter  with  a  book  ;  be- 
neath, five  members  of  the  Pesaro  family 
are  kneeling  to  the  Virgin.  It  is  said  for 
this  work  Titian  received  102  golden  duc- 
ats. 

Church  of  Santa  Giovanni  e  Paolo  was 
commenced  in  1246,  and  completed  in  1390. 
It  is  330  ft.  long,  140  ft.  wide  l*tween  the 
transept, '.(()  ft.  in  the  body,  and  120  ft.  high  : 
the  principal  objects  of  interest  arc  tho 
monuments  and  paintings.  The  monu- 
ment of  the  Doge  Leonardo  Loredan  was 
erected  to  his  memory  as  a  tribute  of  es- 
teem for  the  merits  of  one  of  the  most  pru- 
dent princes  of  Venice. 

One  of  the  finest  monuments  in  Venice 
is  that  of  the  Doge  Andrea  Vendramin : 
the  style  is  dignified,  and  the  invention 
graceful.  The  statue  of  the  Doge  upon  his 
bier  would  appear  to  represent  him  sleep- 
ing instead  of  having  passed  into  "the 
undiscovered  country  from  whose  bourne 
no  traveler  returns."  The  tombs  of  the 
General  Dionigi  .Naldo  and  Nicolo  Orsini, 
count  of  Pittigliano,  both  in  the  service 
of  Venice  against  the  league  of  Cambray, 
Were  erected  at  the  expense  of  the  repub- 
lic. A  marble  group  representing  Vittore 
Capello  receiving  the  baton  from  St.  Elena. 
In  the  north  transept,  the  painting  of  St. 
Peter  Martyr,  by  Titian,  formerly  hung ;  it 
Mas  considered  one  of  his  best  works,  but 
was  lately  destroyed  by  fire.  There  are 
also  several  paintings  by  Tintoretto:  the 
Holy  League  of  1570,  Battle  of  Lepanto, 
the  Crucifixion.  The  painting  of  Mary 
Magdalene  washing  the  feet  of  our  Savior 
is  very  attractive.  In  front  of  the  church, 
on  the  Campo,  stands  the  statue  of  Barto- 
lomeo  Colleoni,  designed  by  Andrew  Ver- 
rocchio.  who  it  is  said  died  of  grief  in  con- 
sequence of  the  mould  being  a  failure, 
and  his  inability  therefore  to  complete  the 
etatue. 

Church  of  Santa  ^faria  dtlla  Silute,  the 
most  beautiful  in  Venice,  was  erected  as  a 


;  monument  of  thanksgiving  after  the  dis- 
appearance of  the  pestilence  in  KS30,  at 
which  time  about  00,000  inhabitants  died. 
Many  splendid  works  of  art  decorate  the 
interior;  Titian's  celebrated  picture  of  the 
Descent  of  the  Holy  Spirit ;  also  the  Evan- 
gelists and  Doctors  of  the  Church,  Titian 
himself  representing  the  figure  of  St.  Mat- 
thew. Tintoretto's  Marriage  of  Cana,  and 
Pandovino's  Madonna  della  Salute,  are 
among  the  finest  specimens.  The  Oratory 
contains  the  tomb  of  Sansovini,  whose  re- 
mains were  interred  here  after  their  re- 
moval from  the  church  of  S.  Griminiano, 
where  they  had  lain  for  over  250  years. 
The  altar  is  a  magnificent  piece  of  sculp- 
turing :  it  consists  of  a  representation  of 
the  Virgin  and  Child;  St.  Mark  on  one 
side,  and  St.  Justinian  on  the  other;  an 
allegorical  ligure  of  Venice  kneeling  to  an 
ani:i-l  who  is  driving  away  a  figure  of  the 
plague.  V)n  each  side  of  the  altar  is  a  flag 
and  pacha's  tails  taken  from  the  Turks. 
There  are  also  two  old  crutches  standing 
up  on  the  right  of  the  altar:  it  is  related 
that  in  1857  an  old  woman,  known  to  have 
been  lame  for  years,  came  a  long  distance 
to  make  her  confession  in  this  church,  in 
the  midst  of  which  her  lameness  departed, 
j  and  she  went  on  her  way  rejoicing.  The 
court-yard  of  this  church  is  arranged  in  a 
very  ingenious  manner  for  filtering  water. 
There  are  a  large  number  of  other 
churches  which  contain  many  very  inter- 
esting objects  ;  hours,  6  to  12,  free. 

Accademia  delle  Belle  Arti,  open  from  9 
to  3  every  day.     It  is  located  in  the  build- 
;  ing  which  was  formerly  the  Convent  of  la 
Carita.     The  only  portion  of  the  building 
which  is  left  to  represent  the  great  study 
spent  upon  it  by  Palladio  is  the  Tallino, 
',  or  square  hall,  now  used  as  one  of  the 
!  drawing-schools,  formerly  the  sacristy  of 
the  church.     In  the  Sola  delT  Assumtu  is 
the  great  painting  by  Titian,  wherein  he 
has  displayed  his  greatest  talents  in  color- 
!  ing,  arrangement  of  drapery,  illustration 
•  of  character,  and  magnificent  attitude,  the 
!  Assumption  of  the  Virgin  ;  it  was  purchased 


!  from  the  friars  of  the  church  of  the  1'rari, 

|  over  the  altar  of  which  it  was  formerly 

I  placed.      It   is   a   powerful   effort   of  this 

great  painter,  considered  beyond  any  of 

his  other  works. 

Titian,  or  TizlanD  Vicelli,  "  was  born  at 
Cadore,  on  the  borders  of  the  Friuli,  A.D. 
767 


VENICE. 


[ITALY.] 


VENICE 


1477.  He  studied  with  Sebastiano  Zuccati, 
afterward  with  Gentil  Bellini,  and  finally 
with  Giorgione ;  lie  stands  at  the  head  of 
the  Venetian  school,  and  is  acknowledged 
the  greatest  colorist  the  world  has  ever 
seen.  His  palette  was  extremely  simple  ; 
the  colors  which  he  used  being  few  in 
number,  and  very  pure  and  decided  in  tint. 
His  mode  of  painting  has  never  been  un-  j 
derstood  or  imitated;  he  has  enchanted  the  ] 
world  by  his  wonderful  effects,  and  made  ; 
many  artists  throw  down  their  pencils  and  [ 
palettes  in  perfect  desperation.  His  figures 
have  an  air  of  superb  repose,  but  in  some 
of  his  earliest  works  were  not  perfectly 
drawn.  He  was  doubtless  the  greatest 
painter  that  ever  lived ;  was  also  a  fine 
landscape  painter,  and  was  one  of  the  first 
to  make  it  a  separate  art.  He  was  one  of 
the  most  laborious  of  artists,  and  continued 
to  paint  until  his  death,  which  took  place 
in  Aretino  in  1576."  In  this  saloon  are 
also  two  other  pictures  by  this  celebrated 
artist,  the  "Visitation  of  St.  Elizabeth," 
painted  when  he  was  14,  and  the  I>  -p<:si!rm, 
when  at  the  advanced  age  of  98 ;  the  cele- 
brated Assumption  was  painted  in  his  prime 
— so  we  are  afforded  at  the  same  moment 
the  privilege  of  beholding  \\isjlrst,  last,  and 
best  work.  In  the  picture  of  the  Presenta- 
tion in  the  adjoining  room  there  is  a  life- 
size  portrait  of  his  mother  selling  eggs. 

The  painting  of  St.  Mark  staying  the 
Tempest  is  full  of  historical  interest,  and 
considered  one  of  the  best  works  of  Gior- 
gione. A  fine  picture  by  Bellini,  repre- 
senting the  Canal  near  San  Lorenzo,  in 
which  the  Cross  was  dropped,  and  from 
which  it  was  recovered.  Our  Lord  visit- 
ing the  house  of  Lev!  is  a  large  picture, 
and  the  subject  nicely  expressed  by  Paul 
Veronese.  Another  highly  interesting 
painting  is  the  Presentation  of  the  Ring  to 
the  Doge  by  the  Fisherman. 

Schools — those  of  San  ^farcr>  and  San 
Rocco  are  the  most  important.  Tintoretto 
continued  to  paint  in  the  latter  for  17 
years ;  some  of  the  walls  are  entirely  cov- 
ered with  his  paintings.  His  gre;.to>t  work 
is  the  Crucifixion. 

Giacomo  Robusti  Tintoret  was  the  son 
of  a  dyer  (tintoretto),  from  whence  he  de- 
rived his  surname,  and  was  born  in  Venice 
in  1512.  He  was  a  pupil  of  Titian's,  who, 
fearful  of  having  in  him  a  redoubtable 
rival,  sent  him  awav.  He  studied  then 
768 


alone,  proposing  to  himself  to  unite  the  de- 
sign of  Michael  Angela  \tith  the  coloring 
of  his  old  master.  He  always  succeeded 
in  giving  to  his  figures  a  life-like  move- 
ment. His  portrait  of  himself,  and  his 
Susanna  at  the  Bath,  are  in  the  gallery  of 
the  Louvre  at  Paris,  lie  died  in  the  82d 
year  of  his  age,  and  was  buried  in  the 
church  of  the  Madonna  dell'  Orto  in  151)4. 

MI/SPO  Corrtr. — This  collection  of  curi- 
osities will  be  found  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Theatres. — L'l  Fenice  is  the  principal.  It 
is  a  large  building,  capable  of  containing 
2500  persons.  There  are  several  other 
theatres,  but  nothing  very  remarkable,  the 
drama  being  in  a  very  low  state  in  Venice. 

Charitable  institutions  are  quite  numer- 
ous, and  do  an  immense  deal  of  good. 
There  is  one  house  in  which  700  poor  peo- 
ple are  lodged,  an  orphan  institution  for 
335  children,  hospital  to  accommodate  1000 
patients,  house  of  education  for  90  girls,  a 
foundling  hospital,  etc. 

The  Cemetery  is  situated  on  the  island 
of  Murano.  The  rich  and  poor,  nobles  and 
beggars,  are  buried  here  together.  The 
expenses  of  burial  for  the  poor  arc  defray- 
ed by  government.  A  gondola  is  used  to 
convey  corpses. 

The  price  of  a  gondola  per  hour  is  1  fr. 
with  one  rower,  2  frs.  with  two  rowers. 
There  are  upward  of  4000  in  Venice. 

Among  the  excursions  is  that  to  the 
lovely  island  of  Lido,  one  of  the  finest  wa- 
tering-places in  Italy.  This  historical 
spot  is  only  ten  minutes  by  gondola  from 
Venice,  being  the  nearest  of  those  long- 
stretched  shores  which  divide  the  sea  from 
the  lagoons.  It  is  nearly  ten  miles  long, 
and  a  little  over  half  a  mile  wide.  A  most 
exquisite  sandy  beach,  smooth  as  velvet, 
the  entire  length  of  the  island,  runs  far 
into  the  water.  There  is  a  beautiful  pier, 
650  feet  long,  built  in  the  sea,  on  which 
are  placed  400  bath-houses,  from  which 
you  descend  by  stairs  into  the  water. 

The  Palazzo  Treves  contains  the  last 
great  works  of  Canova,  viz.,  his  Hector  and 
Ajar,  bought  by  the  present  owner  for 
100,000  francs.  One  ntillion  has  been  of- 
fered for  them  by  an  American  gentleman. 
The  palaces  of  Vendremin,  Pesaro.  and  Fini- 
Wimpfcn  are  shown  from  9  to  10  A.M., 
and  from  3  to  4  P.M. ;  fee  to  the  domestic, 
1  franc. 

Venice  is  not  without  her  streets  ;  there 


VENICE. 


[ITALY.] 


is  access  by  land  to  every  house :  thou- 
sands of  little  alleys,  some  of  them  not  five 
feet  wide,  anil  innumerable  bridges,  unable 
the  great  mass  of  the  people  to  go  about 
their  business,  as  in  other  towns,  through 
the  streets.  Gondolas  are  but  the  equiva- 
lent of  hackney-coaches  in  other  cities. 

In  Venice,  as  elsewhere,  an  honest  valet 
de place  will  save  you  much  in  the  way  of 
fees.  An  intelligent  guide  will  be  found 
in  Antonio  Baldissera,  who  speaks  English, 
French,  German,  and  Italian,  and  who  may 
be  seen  at  the  hotels ;  also  Roch  Jocpass, 
Cafe  Soizero. 

Excursions  should  be  made  to  Lido  (by 
steamer  in  summer),  a  half-hour's  distance; 
also  to  the  island  Murano,  1%  miles  north 
of  Vienna.  The  Cathedral  is  a  very  inter- 
esting building. 

The  1'eninsular  and  Oriental  steamers 
sail  every  Saturday  for  Egypt  and  the 
East  Indies. 

Bankers. — The  principal  banking-house 
and  exchange-office  in  Venice  is  that  of 
Messrs.  Th.  IJeitmeyer  &  Co.,  convenient- 
ly situated  on  tlie  Piazza  .Sail  Marco,  7lA 
lloyul  Palace,  Ueading-rooni,  register, etc. 
Druggist. — A  good  druggist  is  Fumci- 
galU,  rewarded  at  Paris  Exposition  of  '78. 
His  shop  is  at  the  Ponte  delle  Ostreghe, 
Via  22  Marzo. 

Venetian  Laces.— This  industry,  protect- 
ed by  the  Queen  of  Italy,  employs  over  2500 
women  in  Venice  and  the  environs,  whose 
wages  being  lower,  cheaper  lace  is  made 
than  elsewhere.  The  best  house  is  Jesurmn 
&  Co. .4292  St.  Filippo  Giacomo,  near  the 
Bridge  of  Sighs,  where  not  only  an  immense 
stock  of  the  most  varied  laces  is  kept,  priced 
in  plain  figures,  but  the  girls  may  also  be 
seen  at  their  work.  Here  can  be  seen  the 
reproduction  of  old  lace,  by  a  system  in- 
vented by  Mr.  Jesurum,  an  immense  stock 
of  which  is  kept,  from  the  15th  century 
downward,  and  which  is  subsequently  sold 
to  customers  at  very  low  rates,  after  repro- 
duction. The  beautiful  polychrome,  or 
many-colored,  lace — also  an  invention  of 
this  house  —  is  made  here.  In  addition, 
there  is  an  immense  choice  of  veils,  shawls, 
Venetian  mantelets,  cravats,  handkerchiefs, 
chemises  ;  all  kinds  of  sets  for  the  neck  for  I 
ladies  and  young  ladies  :  all  kinds  of  furni-  : 
ture  laces,  curtains,  bed-covers,  mantel- 
pieces, antimacassars,  toilet-covers,  in  an-  j 
cient  and  modern  style,  elegant  and  origi-  | 


nal,  suitable  for  presents,  and  to  s.. 
purses. 

Tourist  Office. — Messrs.  Gondrand  freres,, 
1098  Campo  Stun  Gallo,  close  to  Piazza  San 
Marco,  are  agents  of  the  principal  steam- 
ship companies,  ship  goods,  give  informa- 
tion, and  cash  circular  notes  and  letters  of 
credit. 

Venice  to  Vienna,  via  Udine  and  Ponte- 
bra,  in  24  h.  55  in. ;  fare,  72  frs.  40  c. ;  this 
is  the  new  route  finished  in  1882,  bj-  which 
the  traveler  now  avoids  the  detour  to  Tri- 
este. 

Venice  to  Paris.  Time,  34  h.  10  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  148  frs.  95  c. 

Venice  to  London.  Time,  42  h.  10  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  221  frs.  45  c. 

Venice  to  Turin.  Time,  11  h.  30  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  48  frs.  75  c. ;  second  class, 
34  frs.  70  c. 

Venice  to  Milan.  Time,  7  hours;  fare, 
first  class,  31  frs.  80  c. ;  second  class,  22 
frs.  80  c. 

Venice  to  Verona.  Time,  3  h.  1  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  14  frs.  30  c. ;  second  class,  10  frs. 
40  c. 

Venice  to  Trieste.  Time,  7  h.  41  m. ; 
fare,  first  class.  27  frs.  25  c. ;  second  class, 
20  frs.  5  c. 

Venice  to  Bologna.  Time,  4  h.  20  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  19  frs.  45  c. ;  second  class, 
14  frs.  45  c. 

Venice  to  Brindisi.  Time,  24  hours ; 
fare,  first  class,  104  frs.  85  c. ;  second  class, 
74  frs.  35  c. 

From  Brindisi  to  Alexandria  (Egypt), 
300  frs.  Steamers  leaving  Brindisi  on 
Monday  at  5  A.M.  arrive  at  Alexandria 
on  Thursday  morning. 


760 


PADUA. 


[ITALY.] 


PADUA. 


ROUTE  No.  200. 

Venice  to  Milan,  via  Padua,  Lake  Gctrda, 
Verona,  Brescia,  and  Bergamo^  Time,  6  h. 
41  m.  (express) ;  fare,  first  class,  31  fr.  80  c. ; 
second  class,  22  fr.  80  c. 


PADUA. 

Padua  is  finely  situated  on  the  Bacchi- 
glione,  several  branches  of  which  flow 
through  the  town.  Hotels,  Aquila  d'Oro, 
La  Stella  d'Oro,  and  Croce  d'Oro.  Pop- 
ulation, 52,000.  Padua  is  the  most  ancient 
city  of  the  north  of  Italy.  It  abounds  in 
tradition,  and  its  foundation  was  ascribed  to 
Antenor,  after  the  siege  of  Troy.  It  was 
taken  by  Alaric,  Attila,  and  the  Lombards, 
but  restored  by  Charlemagne  to  its  former 
grandeur,  and  under  his  successors  it  be- 
came flourishing  and  independent.  It  came 
into  possession  of  the  Carrara  family  in  1318, 
and  was  united  to  the  Venetian  territory  in 
1-J05.  It  is  a  bishop's  see,  and  the  seat  of 
the  superior  judicial  courts.  The  appear- 
ance of  the  city  is  very  singular :  large 
portions  of  irregular  unoccupied  ground, 
situated  on  the  outskirts,  add  to  its  pecul- 
iarity. The  houses  are  supported  by  rows 
of  pointed  arches :  the  city  is  of  a  triangu- 
lar form,  surrounded  with  walls  and  inter- 
sected by  canals.  It  has  a  low,  marshy 
situation,  at  the  tenninus  of  the  Canal  of 
Monselici,  between  the  Brenta  and  Bacchi- 
glione.  Travelers  are  generally  much  dis- 
appointed in  the  appearance  of  this  city,  it 
770 


being  very  damp  and  exceedingly  gloomy ; 
the  streets  are  narrow,  unclean,  and  very 
monotonous ;  they  are  bordered  by  arcades, 
and  have  no  leading  thoroughfares. 

Padua  contains  nearly  100  churches, 
which  are  the  principal  buildings  in  the 
city. 

The  Dunmo  was  nearly  two  centuries  in 
progress  of  building,  and  was  not  completed 
until  1755;  it  contains  some  monuments 
of  interest,  also  a  few  paintings,  and  quite 
a  number  of  frescoes. 

Church  of  San  Giustina:  the  first  build- 
ing was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in 
1117;  it  was  rebuilt  in  the  13th  century; 
the  present  structure  was  commenced  and 
finished  in  the  16th  century.  All  that  is 
left  of  the  ancient  edifice  is  represented  in 
the  two  lions  which  stand  in  front  of  the 
present  building.  It  possesses  a  precious 
relic  in  a  fine  painting  by  Paul  Veronese. 
It  is  said  the  bones  of  3000  saints  are  here 
deposited. 

The  Church  of  Sanf  Antonio  is  singular- 
ly constructed,  somewhat  in  the  Oriental 
style  :  it  has  eight  cupolas.  It  was  erect- 
ed in  1231  by  the  citizens  of  Padua,  just 
after  the  death  and  in  honor  of  their  patron 
saint.  The  interior  of  this  church  is  very 
elaborately  decorated;  the  exterior  is  by 
no  means  attractive,  with  the  exception  of 
the  towers.  The  Chapel  of  the  saint  is 
adorned  with  a  curious  series  of  sculptures  : 
it  is  illuminated  day  and  night  by  silver 
candlesticks,  golden  lamps,  and  candfla- 
l.ras  supported  by  angels.  The  shrine  in 
the-  centre  of  the  chapel  lias  been  made 
truly  magnificent  by  its  ornaments  in  gold 
and  marble.  The  singular  chapel  of  the 
Madonna  Mora  contains  an  attractive  sar- 
cophagus of  the  Obice  family  ;  also  an  urn 
which  belonged  to  Fulgosa,  a  celebrated 
counselor  of  the  14th  century.  In  the 
chapel  of  St.  Felix  are  some  very  ancient 
frescoes,  impressive,  but  much  injured  by 
restoration.  The  Prfsbyttry  is  separated 
from  the  rest  of  the  church  by  very  ele- 
gant screens  and  balustrades  made  of  mar- 
ble :  this  contains  the  great  bronze  cruci- 
fix, and  Deposition  in  gilt  and  terra-cotta, 
by  Donatello  ;  also  his  group  of  the  Madon- 
na and  Saints  in  bronze.  Church  of  the 
Eremitani  is  quite  simple,  but  ornamented 
in  a  pleasing  manner ;  some  of  the  frescoes 
are  uncommonly  fine.  An  allegorical  pic- 
ture of  Mercury,  Mars,  and  Venus  is  very 


PADUA. 


[ITALY.] 


PADUA. 


singular;  so  also  is  that  of  Earth  placed 
between  Industry  and  Idleness. 

Of  the  Tomls  we  may  mention  particu- 
larly that  of  the  fifth  lord  of  Padua,  Jacopo 
di  Carrara  ;  also  that  of  Ubertino  Carrara. 
These  are  about  the  only  memorials  left  of 
the  princes  of  Padua.  The  history  of  the 
total  extinction  of  this  family  is  really 
quite  sad.  Francesco  di  Carrara  and  his 
two  sons  were  strangled  in  the  dungeons 
of  St.  Mark  after  having  surrendered  Padua 
to  the  Venetians.  The  monument  to  Bena- 
vides,  the  celebrated  lawyer,  is  very  fine, 
and  remarkable  from  having  been  erected 
under  his  own  supervision :  he  employed 
groat  genius  both  in  the  sculpturing  and 
architecture.  Students  from  the  Univer- 
sity attend  service  here  on  Sundays  and 
holidays  ;  they  are  also  interred  here  after 
death.  The  Sacristy  contains  two  very 
handsome  and  interesting  monuments  — 
one,  by  Conova,  erected  to  William,  Prince 
of  Orange  ;  the  other,  a  very  singular  one 
of  red  marble,  to  the  memory  of  Paulus  de 
Venetiis. 

The  A  rena,  supposed  to  have  been  a  Ro- 
man amphitheatre ;  in  portions  of  it  the 
Roman  masonry  is  still  visible.  It  passed 
into  the  hands  of  the  Scrovigno  family,  a 
member  of  which  altered  it  into  a  castle, 
and  also  erected  the  chapel  of  Sta.  Maria 
deir  Annunciato  for  private  worship.  Gi- 
otto, who  was  young  then,  and  was  work- 
ing in  Padua,  was  employed  in  decorating 
the  building ;  he  also  designed  the  build- 
ing, which  accounts  for  the  unity  in  the 
architecture  and  decorations ;  the  beautie.- 
and  character  of  his  style  were  never  more 
forcibly  illustrated  than  in  this  original 
and  perfect  production.  While  at  work  on 
this,  he  had  a  pleasing  companion  in  the 
person  of  Dante,  who  at  that  time  lodged 
with  him. 

The  chapel  is  a  perfect  gem  of  the  art- 
ist's beauty  and  skill  in  ornamental  de- 
sign ;  his  frescoes  also  are  worthy  of  most 
particular  observation.  Those  persons  who 
have  a  taste  for  this  art  will  perceive  with 
what  exquisite  simplicity,  and  yet  with 
how  much  dignity  he  portrays  his  subjects, 
which  are  mostly  taken  from  sacred  his- 
tory ;  ho  has  lu-re  a.mhined  pathetic  ex- 
pression with  ease  and  beauty.  The  De- 
position from  the  Cross  is  considered  his 
finest  painting.  Giotto  was  the  son  of  a 
shepherd,  and  was  born  at  Vespignano, 


near  Florence,  in  1276.  He  became  the 
pupil  of  Cimabue,  and  soon  surpassed  his 
master  in  the  blending  of  his  tints  and  the 
symmetry  and  correctness  of  his  designs. 
Many  of  his  works  possess  great  positive 
merit,  irrespective  of  the  early  age  in  which 
they  were  produced.  He  painted  portraits 
as  well  as  sacred  compositions ;  among 
others,  one  of  Dante,  in  the  chapel  of  the 
podesta  at  Florence,  which,  after  having 
been  covered  with  whitewash  for  two  cen- 
turies, was  brought  to  light.  He  died  in 
1336. 

The  Unirersity  of  Padua  was  quite  cele- 
brated in  the  14th  and  loth  centuries ;  it 
was  not  only  patronized  by  an  immense 
number  of  students  from  all  parts  of  Eu- 
rope, but  also  by  Mohammedan  countries. 
Dante  and  Petrarch  were  among  its  pu- 
pils ;  Harvey  received  his  degree  of  med- 
icine here  in  1602 ;  Evelyn  was  a  stu- 
dent in  1645 ;  Galileo  and  Guglielmi  were 
among  its  professors  of  philosophy ;  and 
Fallopius,  Morgagni,  and  others  among  its 
medical  professors.  Padua  is  one  of  the 
five  sections  of  the  literary  union  of  Aus- 
trian Italy.  It  excelled  greatly  in  medi- 
cine, as  may  be  seen  from  the  names  of  the 
professors. 

Palazzo  of  the  University  derives  its 
name  of  //  Bo  from  the  inn  upon  the  site 
of  which  it  is  located.  Here  is  the  statue 
of  the  celebrated  Elena  Lucrezia  Cornaro 
Piscopia :  she  was  most  accomplished ; 
spoke  the  Hebrew,  Greek,  Arabic,  Span- 
ish, French,  and  Latin  languages  fluently ; 
was  a  poetess,  an  excellent  musician,  well 
versed  in  mathematics  and  astronony,  and 
received  a  degree  of  medicine;  she  died 
unmarried  at  the  age  of  48. 

The  most  singular  building  is  the  Palaz- 
zo della  Municipalita,  the  history  of  which 
is  as  remarkable  as  its  appearance.  The 
roof  is  very  high,  towering  far  above  the 
walls  of  the  edifice,  and  said  to  be  the 
largest  in  the  world  which  is  unsupported 
by  columns.  The  interior  of  the  hall  is 
not  at  all  prepossessing,  being  dark  and 
gloomy,  and  the  walls  are  hung  with  heavy 
rr^'sterious  paintings,  which  rather  add  to 
the  dreary  appearance.  Among  the  busts 
and  monuments  which  this  building  con- 
tains is  the  bust  of  Pletro  di  Abano,  who 
first  revived  the  art  of  medicine  in  Europe  ; 
Sperone  iiperanfs  statue ;  Livy's  monument 
and  its  history,  are  all  interesting,  but 
771 


PADUA. 


[ITALY.] 


VlCENZA. 


none  as  much  so  as  the  bust  erected  to  Lu- 
crezia  Dondi,  as  celebrated  for  her  virtues 
as  the  Roman  Lucretia,  the  circumstances 
of  whose  death  so  aroused  the  indigna- 
tion of  the  Romans  against  the  Tarquins 
that,  with  Brutus  as  their  leader,  they  bel- 
lowed forth  revenge  for  one  who  was  the 
"  mark  and  model  of  her  time,"  and  struck 
the  blow  for  liberty.  At  one  end  of  the 
hall  is  the  A  liar  of  Insolvency,  composed 
of  black  granite ;  at  the  other  end,  the 
famous  model  of  a  horse  by  Donatello.  In 
a  suite  of  apartments  near  the  entrance  to 
this  building  are  deposited  the  series  of 
Paduan  archives.  Among  the  diplomas  is 
one  of  Henry  V.,  to  which  he  was  obliged 
to  annex  a  cross,  being  unable,  from  the 
want  of  education,  to  write  his  signature. 

The  Biblioteca  Capitolare,  claiming  Pe- 
trarch as  one  of  its  founders,  contains 
10,000  volumes  and  some  curious  MSS. 
The  Biblioteca  Publica  has  1(0,000  printed 
volumes  and  15,000  MSS. 

Padua  has  the  most  ancient  Botanic  Gar- 
den, in  which  are  the  oldest  exotic  trees 
and  plants  common  in  Europe.  The  ce- 
dar of  Lebanon  flourishes  very  extensive- 
ly ;  the  magnolias  are  remarkably  elegant. 

The  Astronomical  Observatory,  in  which 
many  of  the  victims  of  Eccelini  were  im- 
prisoned. The  view  from  here  is  extend- 
ed and  exceedingly  fine,  combining  the 
Euganean  hills,  the  Lagoon  of  Venice,  and 
the  N.E.  Alps. 

The  Praia  detl.i  Voile  is  the  only  public 
promenade.  It  is  square  and  irregular,  and 
somewhat  resembles  the  London  square, 
except  that  the  interior  is  surrounded  with 
a  circular  stream  of  water,  along  the  bor- 
ders of  which  are  statues  of  celebrated  na- 
tives of  Padua,  besides  some  celebrities  of 
other  countries. 

The  most  interesting  palace  is  the  Pa- 
lazzo Pappqfava,  belonging  to  one  of  the 
most  patriotic  noblemen  of  the  country, 
Count  Andrea  Cittadclla  cli  Vicodozzere. 
Of  its  curiosities,  none  are  so  attractive  as 
the  group  in  sculpture  of  Lucifer  cast  out 
from  Heaven,  carved  from  a  single  block 
of  marble.  It  consists  of  sixty  figures. 
Twelve  years  of  the  artist's  life  were  con- 
sumed upon  it. 

The  Scuola  di  Sanf  Antonio  is  most  rich 

in  frescoes  by  Titian,  the  subjects  of  which 

are  most  interesting.    The  manufactures  of 

Padua  are  w  oolen  cloths,  silks,  and  ribbon. 

772 


There  is  also  a  large  trade  in  wine,  oil,  cat- 
tle, and  leather.  In  a  tower  adjoining  tht 
Cathedral  is  the  wonderful  clock  of  the  cel- 
ebrated inventor  Dondi,  for  which  magnif- 
icent piece  of  mechanism  his  descendants 
bear  the  name  of  "  Dondi  dell'  Orologio." 
Padua  is  noted  for  its  charitable  institutions. 

Omnibuses  from  the  hotels  meet  each 
train.  Carriages  to  or  from  the  station  1^ 
fr.,  with  baggage  ;  by  the  hour. '_'  fr. 

From  June  to  August,  on  account  of  the 
fair  held  at  that  time,  the  city  is  the  gayest. 

Travelers  not  wishing  to  visit  Verona, 
Milan,  Turin,  etc.,  can  proceed  direct  from 
Padua  to  Florence  via  Ferrara  and  Bo- 
logna. Distance  to  Bologna,  98  miles. 
Time,  express,  3  hours  ;  fare,  14  fr.  50  c. 

From  Padua  to  Vicenza,  distance  20 
miles ;  time,  1  hour. 

Vicenzi.  —  Principal  hotels,  Hotel  de  la 
Ville,  near  the  station  ;  Stella  d'Oro.  in  the 
Corso.  Population,  37,086.  A  few  hours 
will  be  all  that  travelers  require  to  stay 
here,  and  they  will  find  at  the  railway  sta- 
tion a  very  good  cafe  answering  their  pur- 
pose. The  city  of  Vicenza  was  sacked  by 
Alaric  in  401,  and  pillaged  by  Attila,  the 
Lombards,  and  Frederick  II.  In  the  15th 
century  it  came  into  the  possession  of  the 
Venetians,  who  retained  it  until  after  the 
downfall  of  the  republic.  It  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  Bacchiglione,  where  it  re- 
ceives the  Retrone.  It  is  one  of  the  best- 
built  cities  in  Italy.  The  different  rivers 
are  crossed  by  nine  bridges,  of  which  the 
finest  is  the  Ponte  de  8an  Jfichek,  and  may 
l>e  favorably  contrasted  with  the  Rialto 
of  Venice.  Vicenza  is  a  bishop's  see,  the 
seat  of  the  council,  and  the  superior  courts 
for  the  delegates.  The  Vicentines  are 
quite  celebrated  for  the  interest  they  take 
in  manufactures;  they  consist  chiefly  of 
silks,  woolen  fabrics,  leather,  earthenware, 
gold  and  silver  articles,  etc.  The  mode 
of  cultivation,  and  the  cleanly  manner  in 
which  the  fields  are  kept,  make  quite  an 
impression  upon  the  traveler.  Vicenza  is 
a  very  ancient  city,  and  is  the  birthplace 
of  Palladio,  the  modern  Vitruvius,  who 
was  born  in  1518.  The  buildings  display 
his  skill  in  the  architecture,  and  it  may  be 
truly  said  the  city  is  "full  of  Palladio." 
The  accuracy  of  proportion  is  the  principal 
attraction  in  his  style  of  architecture.  The 
Vicentine  villas,  which  are  very  beautiful, 
are  mostly  located  on  the  Monte,  a  rise  of 


V  E    F 


Harp* 


DMA 


2 '4    la  c-'mn  (Ituisti 
2  5    Theatre 
Tombcau.  <fer  Jcalyer       26 


Place  Hei  Siqmrri. 
•Hcrlt 


VlCEXZA. 


[ITALY.] 


VEROXA. 


ground  adjoining  the  city,  commanding  a 
rich  and  extended  view  of  the  great  plain 
of  Lombardy.  The  palaces  of  the  city  are 
exceedingly  handsome  in  design,  but  show 
that  they  have  been  much  neglected,  and 
only  half  inhabited. 

The  Duumo  is  of  but  little  interest,  con- 
taining scarcely  any  object  worthy  of  no- 
tice. Church  of  San  Lorenz;)  is  built  in 
the  Gothic  style,  and  has  lately  been  re- 
stored, after  having  remained  in  a  neglect- 
ed state  for  a  long  period.  It  has  some 
fine  monument*;  amor.g  them  is  one  of 
Ferreti  the  historian,  e.iso  of  John  of  Schio. 
The  principal  tombs  are  of  Scamozzi,  with 
his  bust,  and  the  slab-tomb  which  former- 
ly  covered  the  remains  of  Giovanni  Gior- 
gio Trissino,  the  poet,  who  died  in  1550. 
Church  of  La  Santa  Corona,  the  burial- 
place  of  Palladio.  The  different  chapels 
are  richly  decorated,  the  tombs  and  paint- 
ings very  fine.  Palladio,  after  having 
lain  here  for  a  long  time,  was  removed  to 
the  Campo  Santo.  Church  of  Sia.  Maria 
del  Monte  is  located  about  a  mile  from  the 
city,  but  is  connected  with  it  by  a  range 
of  arcades  over  700  yards  in  length,  with 
165  arches.  It  stands  on  an  elevation  of 
315  ft.  above  Viccnza,  and  the  view  of  the 
surrounding  country  is  perfc-ctly  charm- 
ing. It  was  from  the  hill  in  front  of  this 
building  in  1848  that  Vicenza  was  bom- 
barded by  the  Austrians  for  nine  success- 
ive hours.  One  of  the  most  prominent 
objects  to  be  seen  from  the  Monte  is  the 
celebrated  March  Tower.  The  Museum  in 
the  Palazzo  Chiericati  contains  some  very 
good  pictures.  Open  from  9  to  5.  In  the 
large  hall  is  the  Supper  of  St.  Gregory,  by 
Paul  Veronese,  which  was  once  very  mag- 
nificent, but  was  most  shamefully  abused 
in  18-48  by  the  Austrian  soldiers.  Teatro 
Olympico. — This  is  one  of  the  finest  speci- 
mens of  the  architecture  of  Palladio,  by 
whom  it  was  commenced,  and  after  his 
death  it  was  completed  by  his  son,  who 
followed  his  father's  designs  as  closely  as 
possible. 

The  two  houses  which  attract  the  most 
attention  in  the  city  are  those  of  PcdJadio 
and  Pigtifetta.  The  Rotondu  Capra,  situ- 
ated at  the  foot  of  Monte  Berico,  more  fa- 
miliarly known  as  Palladio's  villa,  shared 
the  same  fate  as  the  surrounding  buildings 
in  1848.  It  was  almost  entirely  ruined, 
and  now  presents  a  dreary  appearance. 
VOL.  II.— L 


Near  this  villa  is  the  palace  of  the  celebra- 
ted Trissino  the  poet.  The  Public  Ceme- 
tery is  located  at  a  distance  of  about  half 
a  mile  beyond  the  city.  Some  of  the  mon- 
uments are  very  fine.  The  one  erected  to 
the  memory  of  Palladio  is  said  to  have 
cost  upward  of  $15,000. 

The  Baths  of  Recoaro,  24  miles  N.W.  of 
Vicenza,  are  in  high  repute.  Carriage  in  4  h. 

VERONA. 

Population,  58,000.  Hotels :  Due  Torri 
(2  towers),  and  Tour  dt  Londres.  Verona  is 
finely  situated  on  the  Adige,  which  divides  it 
into  two  unequal  parts,  forming  a  peninsula. 
The  river,  wide  and  rapid,  is  crossed  by  three 
stone  and  two  iron  bridges.  In  the  inunda- 
tion of  Sept.,  1882,  surpassing  all  previous 
ones  in  height  and  destructiveness,  the 
Ponte  Xuovo  (new  stone  bridge)  was  carried 
away,  and  hundreds  of  houses  destroyed  or 
undermined,  the  water  attaining  at  the  Por- 
tuni  Borsuri  gateways  an  altitude  of  over 
10  feet.  No  monuments  were  injured. 

The  city  is  extremely  well  built,  and  is 
most  interesting ;  it  has  been,  in  its  day,  of 
great  renown  and  strength.  In  the  neigh- 
borhood Marius  fought  his  famous  battle 
against  the  Cimbri,  and  Theodoric  the 
Great  won  the  victory  over  Odoacer.  From 
this  time  to  that  of  Berengarius,  Verona 
was  in  a  flourishing  state,  and  was  the  cap- 
ital of  the  kingdom  of  Italj-;  it  afterward 
became  the  capital  of  quite  a  large  terri- 
tory, governed  successively  by  the  Scali- 
gers,  Visconti,  etc.  In  the  13th  and  14th 
centuries  transpired  the  contentions  be- 
tween the  Capuletti  and  Montecchi  allud- 
ed to  by  Shakspeare.  Verona  submitted 
to  the  government  of  Venice  in  1405,  and 
continued  in  their  possession  until  the  over- 
throw of  the  Venetian  republic  in  1798. 
It  was  the  seat  of  Congress  in  1822.  The 
most  beautiful  workmanship  presents  itself 
in  the  fine  proportions  and  ornaments  of 
many  of  the  buildings.  There  are  five 
gates  in  the  city,  two  of  which  are  remark- 
abl}'  fine  structures.  The  old  towers  and 
walls  still  remain.  Extensive  fortifica- 
tions have  lately  been  built  in  place  of  the 
old  ones  which  were  destroyed  by  the 
French  in  1797. 

Verona  is  particularly  celebrated  fur 
having  been  the  birthplace  of  many  dis- 
tinguished men,  some  of  whom  are  worthy 
773 


VERONA. 


[ITALY.] 


VERONA. 


of  particular  mention.  The  celebrated  Ro- 
man poet  Catullus,  born  B.C.  86;  he  lived 
and  died  poor,  as  many  other  poets  have 
done,  although  he  possessed  a  superior 
genius.  At  the  time  of  his  death  he  was 
30  years  old,  in  the  flower  of  his  age,  and  at 
the  height  of  his  reputation.  He  had  a  great 
admiration  for  the  fair  sex :  in  speaking 
of  his  Lesbia,  and  how  many  kisses  would 
satisfy  him,  said  that  he  desired  as  many  as 
there  were  grains  of  sand  in  the  deserts  of 
Libya  and  stars  in  the  heavens.  Aurelius 
Mucer,  a  Latin  poet  in  the  age  of  Augustus, 
acquired  considerable  fame.  Cornelius  Ne- 
pos,  the  Latin  historian,  who  flourished  in 
the  time  of  Julius  Caesar:  he  left  the 
' '  Lives  of  the  illustrious  Greek  and  Ro- 
man Captains"  as  a  monument  to  his  mem- 
ory: he  died  in  the  reign  of  Augustus. 
"Caius  Secundus  Pliny  the  elder."  one  of 
the  most  learned  of  the  ancient  Roman 
writers,  born  A.D.  23.  His  death  was 
both  singular  and  tragical.  While  com- 
manding the  fleet  atMisenum,  he  was  sur- 
prised at  the  sudden  appearance  of  a  cloud 
of  dust  and  ashes  which  proceeded  from 
Mt.  Vesuvius  ;  he  immediately  embarked 
on  board  of  a  small  vessel,  and  landed  on 
the  coast,  where  he  remained  during  the 
night,  being  the  better  able  to  observe  the 
mountain,  which  appeared  to  be  one  con- 
tinual blaze.  He  was  soon  disturbed  by  a 
dreadful  earthquake,  and  the  eruption  of 
the  volcano  increasing,  the  fire  at  length 
made  its  approach  to  the  spot  where  the 
philosopher  was  making  his  observations  ; 
he  endeavored  to  fly  before  it,  but  was  un- 
able to  escape,  and  soon  fell,  suffocated  by 
the  thick  vapors  that  surrounded  him,  and 
the  insupportable  stench  of  sulphurous 
matter.  His  body  was  found  three  days 
after,  and  was  buried  by  his  nephews. 
This  event  occurred  in  the  79th  year  of 
the  Christian  era,  and  in  the  56th  year  of 
his  age.  He  composed  a  natural  history 
in  37  books,  which  has  ever  been  admired 
and  esteemed  as  a  judicious  collection 
from  the  most  excellent  treatises  that 
were  written  before  his  age  on  the  various 
productions  of  nature.  Panvinius.  a  cele- 
brated Augustine  monk,  was  l.orn  at  Ve- 
rona in  1529 ;  he  applied  himself  to  the 
study  of  ecclesiastical  history,  and  con- 
tinued the  '•  Lives  of  the  Popes,"  com- 
menced by  Platina,  whereby  he  acquire^ 
the  title  of  the  father  of  history.  Vitru- 
774 


vius  of  antiquity,  and  the  famous  Julius 
Caesar  Scaliger,  who  represented  himself 
as  the  eldest  son  of  one  of  the  Scaligers, 
lords  of  Verona,  and  entitled  to  that  seigno- 
ry,  were  included  among  the  illustrious 
natives  of  this  city,  but,  it  appears,  with- 
out foundation,  for  it  is  said  Scaliger  was 
born  at  Padua,  and  was  the  son  of  Bordoni, 
a  miniature  painter. 

There  was  one  person  who  did  more  to 
increase,  by  his  own  efforts,  the  fame  of 
the  city,. than  all  the  rest  of  its  natives. 
This  was  the  celebrated  painter  Paul  Cag- 
liari,  surnamed  Veronese  from  having  been 
born  in  Verona,  which  event  took  place  in 
1530.  He  was  the  son  of  a  sculptor,  and 
at  an  early  age  manifested  a  strong  desire 
to  become  a  painter.  He  was  styled  by 
the  Italians  " II pittur  felice,'"  "the  happy 
painter."  Titian  and  Tintoretto  were  se- 
lected as  his  models  of  perfection.  He 
established  himself  at  Venice,  where  he  re- 
sided until  his  death.  The  vigor  of  his 
coloring,  the  richness  of  his  composition, 
and  tlia  power  displayed  in  his  pictures, 
met  with  general  admiration.  Scarcely  a 
church  in  Venice  is  unadorned  with  his 
works.  The  great  painting  of  the  "Mar- 
riage at  Cana"  is  not  only  considered  his 
masterpiece,  but  almost  the  triumph  of  the 
art  of  painting.  He  died  of  a  fever  at 
Venice  in  1588,  and  had  a  tomb  and  a  stat- 
ue of  brass  erected  to  his  memory  in  the 
Church  of  St.  Sebastian. 

Verona  is  distinguished  as  one  of  the 
most  industrious  towns  of  Italy.  It  has 
nine  establishments  for  weaving  silk :  60 
silk-twist  factories;  large  leather,  earth- 
enware, and  soap  factories  ;  also  others  for 
the  weaving  of  linen  and  woolen  fabrics. 
Its  trade  consists  chiefly  in  these  articles ; 
also  in  raw  silk,  grain,  oil,  sumach,  and 
agricultural  produce.  Two  weekly  mark- 
ets are  located  here ;  two  fairs  take  place 
annually,  and  continue  for  15  days  each. 
The  fruits  and  flowers  raised  HI  Verona  are 
remarkably  fine.  The  climate  is  healthy, 
but  a  little  keen,  on  account  of  its  near  ap- 
proach to  the  Alps.  One  of  the  tremen- 
dous floods  of  the  Adige,  which  took  place 
in  the  13th  century,  is  illustrated  in  the 
frescoes  of  the  Cathedral.  In  1845  a  se- 
vere storm  occurred,  which  lasted  for  three 
days,  and  the  inhabitants  were  conveyed 
around  the.  town  in  boats. 

Amphitheatre. — One  of  the  most  import 


VERONA. 

ant  objects  of  interest  which  first  attract* 
the  attention  of  the  stranger  is  thu  gruat 
glory  of  Verona,  its  Amphitheatre,  more 
perfectly  preserved  than  any  other  speei- 
men  of  Roman  architecture:  it  presents  a 
iii'>st  imposing  sight.  It  is  one  of  the  no- 
blest existing  monuments  of  the  ancient 
Romans,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Colosseum  at  Koine,  is  the  largest  edifice 
of  its  kind.  The  interior  has  suffered  but 
little,  in  consequence  of  the  great  care 
M'hich  has  been  bestowed  upon  it.  In 
1184  the  outer  circuit  was  very  badly  dam- 
aged by  an  earthquake.  There  were  for- 
merly 72  arches  in  the  outer  circuit,  and 
only  four  now  remain.  The  height  of  the 
building,  when  perfect,  exceeded  120  feet. 
It  is  in  the  form  of  an  ellipse  ;  the  extreme 
length  of  its  diameters  to  the  outer  wall 
510  feet  and  412 ;  those  of  the  arena,  250 
and  147.  In  the  interior,  the  corridors, 
stairs,  and  benches  are  in  a  remarkable 
state  of  preservation.  It  formerly  had  40 
successive  tiers  of  granite  scats,  each  row 
being  H  feet  high,  the  same  in  breadth, 
and  the  whole  number  accommodating 
25,000  persons.  We  arc  without  any  au- 
thentic information  in  reference  to  the 
founders  of  this  great  work.  It  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  built  between  the 
reigns  of  Titus  and  Trajan.  It  was  used 
for  the  exhibition  of  shows  and  sports  in 
the  Middle  Ages,  and  sometimes  as  an  are- 
na for  judicial  combats.  At  a  later  period 
a  bull-fight  in  honor  of  the  Emperor  Joseph 
II.,  then  at  Verona,  was  exhibited  here. 
In  still  more  modern  times  the  Pope  gave 
his  benediction  to  a  large  assemblage  col- 
lected within  the  Amphitheatre  as  he  was 
passing  through  the  city.  While  Verona 
was  in  the  possession  of  the  French,  they 
erected  a  wooden  theatre  in  the  arena  of 
this  time-honored  institution,  for  the  per- 
formance of  farces,  equestrian  feats,  etc. 
The  arches  are  now  let  jy  the  town  au- 
thorities for  shops. 

There  are  other  monuments  of  antiquity 
in  Verona  deserving  of  celebrity,  particu- 
larly the  ancient  double  gateway  composed, 
of  marble,  built  under  Gallienus,  in  mem- 
ory of  whom  it  was  named.  Each  gate- 
way is  ornamented  by  Corinthian  pilasters. 
It  has  lieen  standing  lllOd  years. 

The  fortifications  of  the  city  are  very  re- 
markable, of  early  origin,  and  are  attrib- 
uted to  Charlemagne,  the  Scaligers,  and 


[ITALY.]  VERONA. 

other  natives.  Since  1849  the  modern  for- 
titi cations  have  been  strengthened,  and 
ni'uli'  impregnable  in  every  possible  way. 
A  new  arsenal  has  been  erected,  which  will 
accommodate  a  garrison  of  20,000  men. 
Besides  the  ancient  double  gateway  al- 
ready alluded  to,  there  are  others  possess- 
ing great  beauty  of  architectural  design, 
and  interesting  specimens  of  ancient  carv- 
ing. 

Churches. — The  churches  of  Verona  are 
distinguished  for  their  magnificence.  The 
exterior  of  most  of  them  show  evidences 
of  faded  beauty  and  luxury  of  art. 

Cathedral  of  Sta.  Muriu.  ^fatricolare  was 
erected  in  the  time  of  Charlemagne.  The 
modern  portions  of  it  are  very  rich  and 
beautiful — chapels  of  the  Maffei  family  and 
St.  Agatha  particularly  so.  There  are 
many  very  peculiar  monuments  in  this 
building:  among  them  is  one  erected  in 
commemoration  of  the  Archdeacon  of  Ve- 
rona, to  whom  is  attributed  the  foundation 
of  seven  churches ;  the  poet  De  Cesuris 
has  a  tomb  and  bust;  it  is  also  the  burial- 
place  of  Pope  Lucius  III.,  who  was  driven 
from  IkOine  to  Verona,  where  he  died  in 
1185.  The  paintings  of  importance  have 
nearly  all  been  removed.  Titian's  As- 
sumption has  been  replaced  here  after  a 
tour  to  Paris  and  back. 

The  Presbytery  and  Baptistery  are  adorn- 
ed with  frescoes  ;  in  the  latter  is  the  font, 
30  ft.  in  circumference,  and  designed  from 
a  single  block  of  marble.  Church  of  Zan- 
eenone,  a  curious  structure  of  the  12th  cen- 
tury: the  first  building  was  erected  on 
this  site  in  the  beginning  of  the  9th  cen- 
tury, through  the  liberality  of  Otho  II., 
who  left  a  handsome  donation  for  the  pur- 
pose ;  it  was  restored  in  1178.  The  entire 
front  is  covered  with  bas-reliefs  in  stone, 
and  the  doors  in  sculpture  of  bronze ;  the 
whcel-of-fortune  window  is  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  features.  The  interior  of  the 
church  is  well  proportioned,  and  pr> 
a  striking  appearance ;  the  plan  is  of  a 
Latin  basilica ;  it  has  no  transepts ;  it  is 
rich  in  curious  relics,  the  most  remarkable 
of  which  is  the  statue  of  St.  Zeno,  bishop 
of  Verona  in  3G2  :  he  was  by  birth  an  Afri- 
can. Among  the  other  curiosities  is  a  vase 
formed  of  a  single  block  of  red  porphyry, 
also  a  pedestal.  The  best  painting  is  one 
by  Mant'.-gna,  hack  of  the  high  altar;  it 
formerly  consisted  of  six  compartments, 
775 


VERONA. 


[ITALY.] 


VERONA. 


but  on  its  return  from  Paris  was  reduced 
to  three.  The  Cri/pi  contains  many  early 
frescoes,  and  tombs  of  the  ancient  bishops 
of  Verona;  also  a  stone  sarcophagus,  in 
•which  the  remains  of  St.  Zeno  were  dis- 
covered in  1839.  In  the  Cloister  is  the 
tomb  of  Giuseppe  della  Scalu,  alluded  to  by 
Dante.  The  Campanile  is  particularly  at- 
tractive, being  a  most  beautiful  structure 
of  its  peculiar  style  of  architecture.  Ad- 
joining the  church  is  the  cemetery,  con- 
taining a  singular  mausoleum. 

Church  of  Saint  Anaslasia,  in  the  Gothic 
style,  and  one  of  the  most  beautiful  edi- 
fices of  its  kind  in  Italy  •  it  is  76  feet  in 
width,  and  over  300  in  length.  The  altars 
are  all  very  elegant ;  paintings  good ;  the 
buildings  are  almost  entirely  covered  with 
frescoes.  The  pavement  is  composed  of 
red,  white,  and  gray  marbles,  most  taste- 
fully arranged. 

Church  of  San  Fermo  was  founded  in 
750;  its  piers  are  massive,  and  show  but 
little  alteration ;  there  is  quite  a  good  deal 
of  ornament  about  the  church,  a  number 
of  paintings,  and  some  remarkable  monu- 
ments ;  two  urns  belonging  to  the  last 
members  of  the  Dante  family ;  the  frescoes 
are  very  singular. 

Church  of  San  Giorgio  contains  a  very 
large  number  of  paintings,  statues,  etc. 
The  high  altar  is  an  exquisite  piece  of 
workmanship.  The  principal  paintings 
are  those  of  Paul  Veronese,  the  Martyr- 
dom of  St.  George,  and  Farinati's  Miracle 
of  the  Loaves  and  Fishes. 

Church  of  San  Bcmardin,  now  used  as  a 
military  store-house,  is  full  of  old  tombs ; 
the  little  circular  chapel  was  a  perfect  gem 
of  the  early  Venetian  school. 

Santa  Maria  in  Organo  contains  wonder- 
ful wooden  carvings.  The  inundation  of 
1882  rose  here  2 m. 75 c., but  injured  nothing. 

The  Palaces  of  this  city  are  mostly  from 
the  designs  of  Sanmicheli,  and  are  consid- 
ered some  of  his  finest  specimens  of  archi- 
tecture. 

The  Palazzi  del  Consiglio  was  built  by 
Fra  Giaeondo  ;  it  is  adorned  by  statues  of 
celebrated  natives,  Catullus,  Fracastorio, 
the  poet  and  physician,  also  distinguished 
as  a  mathematician  and  astronomer,  Pliny 
the  younger,  and  others.  The  public  gal- 
lery belonging  to  this  palace  contains  some 
good  paintings,  although  the  best  have 
been  removed. 
776 


The  Palazzo  Pompei  alia  Vittoria,  an  im- 
posing edifice,  was  presented  to  the  city  by 
the  family,  and  now  contains  the  Museo 
Civico  ;  entrance,  1  franc. 

The  ground  floor  contains  a  collection 
of  antiquities,  casts,  and  fossils. 

The  Picture-Gnllery  is  situated  on  the 
first  floor,  and  contains  some  fine  specimens 
of  the  Veronese  school. 

The  first  and  second  rooms  contain  a 
collection  of  pictures  presented  to  the  town 
by  Dr.  Bernasconi.  There  are  numerous 
specimens  of  Paul  Veronese,  Pordenone, 
Fra  Bartolomeo,  Moretto,  and  Tintoretto. 

The  tombs  of  the  old  lords  of  Verona  are 
curious  specimens  of  ancient  sculpture. 
They  have  stood  in  a  public  thoroughfare 
for  over  500  years  apparently  uninjured. 
The  tomb  of  Can  Grande  I.  forms  a  kind  of 
entrance  to  the  Church  of  Santa  M.  Antica. 
The  tomb  of  Can  Signorio  is  of  exquisite 
workmanship  :  his  crimes  were  very  great, 
but  they  did  not  prevent  him  from  succeed- 
ing his  brother — whom  he  had  murdered — 
in  the  government. 

One  of  the  finest  collections  of  literature 
in  Italy  will  be  found  in  the  Biblioteca 
Capltolare :  unpublished  poems  by  Dante, 
a  Virgil  of  the  3d  century,  and  other  in- 
teresting specimens  of  early  literature. 

The  Piazza  del  Erbe,  or  vegetable  mark- 
et. \vas,  in  the  times  of  the  republic,  the 
forum ;  from  the  tribune  criminals  received 
their  sentence.  The  fountain  in  the  cen- 
tre was  erected  by  King  Bcrengarius.  At 
one  end  of  the  Piazza  is  the  palace  of  the 
Maff't'i  family. 

The  T<nm  Hall,  Hfuseo  Lapidario,  Ex- 
change, Lyceum,  Philharmonic  Academy 
(the  Opera-house)  are  among  the  most  at- 
tractive and  conspicuous  buildings  of  Ve- 
rona. There  are  a  number  of  schools,  a 
theological  seminary,  public  libraries,  and 
galleries. 

Theatres.  —  Teatro  Nttovo  and  T<-uti;> 
Ristori. 

Juliet's  Tomb. — F.vcry  reader  of  Shak- 
speare  is  familiar  with  the  story  of  the 
Montagues  and  C'apulets,  particularly  the 
portion  which  relates  to  the  faithful,  lov- 
ing Juliet,  and  the  cause  of  her  melancholy 
death.  In  a  closed  garden  belonging  to 
a  suppressed  convent  (Orfmotrofoi)  is  a 
chapel  containing  a  sarcophagus  of  Vero* 
na  marble,  called  the  Tomb  nf  Juliet  (fro, 
25  c.).  Many  say  it  is  not  Juliet's  toml. 


PESCHIERA. 


[ITALY.] 


Whose  tomb  is  it  then  ?  Juliet  evidently 
died  hero,  and  .was  buried  here ;  and  if  it 
plciiM1.-  the  custodians  to  say  it  /.<•  Juliet's 
tomb,  why  let  them  have  their  way  until 
the  non-l>elievers  find  out  where  she  was 
buried.  The  original  author  of  the  story 
of  La  Giulietta  was  Luigi  da  Porta,  a  gen- 
tleman of  Vicenza,  who  died  in  lfr_".».  His 
novel,  however,  did  not  appear  until  1535, 
being  first  printed  at  Venice.  It  has  been 
proved  by  a  strict  inquiry  into  the  history 
of  Verona  that  all  the  circumstances,  char- 
acters, and  truth  of  the  story  have  been 
retained  by  Shukspeare  in  the  production 
of  his  play,  which  was  written  in  1596. 
The  house  of  Juliet's  parents  is  now  a  tav- 
ern, in  St.  Seb'istinno  Street,  formerly  Ca- 
ptllett;  Street.  The  armorial  hat  belong- 
ing to  the  Capule:  family  may  still  be  seen 
over  the  entrance  to  the  court. 

Verona  to  ^[unich,  across  the  Brenner 
Pass.  See  Route  No.  201. 

Verona  to  Modena.     See  Route  Xo.  211. 

Verona  to  Milan.  Time,  3  h.  34  m. ; 
fare,  tirst  class,  17  fr.  50  c. ;  second  class, 
12  fr.  -10  c. 

Verona  to  Venice.  Time,  3  hours  ;  fare, 
first  class,  14  fr.  30  c. ;  second  class,  10  fr. 
40  c. 

Pcschitra  is  a  very  strong  fortification, 
situated  on  a  small  island  connecting  the 
River  Mincio  with  Lake  Garda ;  the  forti- 
fications were  first  erected  by  Napoleon  :  it 
was  surrendered  tothe  Piedmontesein  1848, 
after  having  been  besieged  two  months. 
Layo  di  Gnrda. — This  lake  is  formed  most- 
ly by  the  River  Mincio,  which  descends 
from  the  Italian  Tyrol.  The  whole  sur- 
rounding country  is  a  garden  of  beauty. 
Garda  is  more  extensive  than  Como  or 
Maggiore,  although  it  receives  less  water. 
Its  height  is  about  300  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  its  depth  1000  feet.  In  many 
places  its  sides  are  bold  and  precipitous,  and 
it  is  almost  entirely  surrounded  by  mount- 
ains. The  lower  portion  of  it  is  7  miles 
across,  and  its  greatest  length  35.  Catullus 
selected  this  lovely  situation  for  his  villa, 
tlio  ruins  of  which  arc  still  visible  ;  he  was 
singularly  attached  to  the  spot,  and  ex- 
pressed his  admiration  for  it  in  some  of  his 
finest  verses.  The  climate  is  more  mild 
and  agreeable  than  upon  any  other  of  the 
Lombard  lakes.  Its  shores  are  covered 
with  villages,  and  the  land  is  very  fertile. 
The  lemon-tree  is  planted  very  extensively, 


as  well  as  the  olive.  The  lake  abounds  in 
fine  fish,  such  as  trout,  pike,  etc. ;  also  the 
sarilel  and  agove,  species  of  the  delicious 
herring  which  are  found  in  the  other  lakes. 
The  waters  are  at  times  troubled,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  severe  storms  which  are 
very  prevalent ;  the  waves  rising  to  an  im- 
mense height,  owing  to  the  large  expanse 
of  water.  The  Mincio  is  the  only  outlet. 
Steamers  between  Desenzano  and  Riva,  at 

'  the  head  of  the  lake,  in  5  hours,  leaving  the 
former  at  l.SO  P.M.,  and  arriving  at  the 

1  latter  at  0.30;  and  returning  even'  morn- 
ing from  Riva  at  7.30.  Fare,  4  fr.  35  c. 
On  Tuesdays  it  leaves  Riva  at  4  A.M. 

Desenzano,  a  small  town  on  the  margin 
of  the  lake,  a  short  distance  from  the  sta- 
tion Peschiera.  Omnibus  to  the  town, 
50  c.  (Afager's  Hatel).  It' contains  a  pop- 
ulation of  4500  inhabitants. 

There  are  numerous  stations  on  the  lake 
where  the  steamers  stop;  among  others, 
those  of  Solo  and  Gargnano  are  the  pretti- 
est and  most  important.  Riva  is  charm- 
ingly situated  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  sur- 
rounded by  precipitous  mountains.  Ho- 
tels, .-1  Ibergo  Truffell  im  and  Gianlini.  Bag- 
gage here  is  examined  on  arriving  by  .\\i~- 
trian  custom  officers,  and  on  leaving  by 
those  of  Italy. 

Riva  is  a  pleasant  residence  during  the 
summer,  and  living  is  rather  cheap.  The 
natural  beauty  of  the  place  is  enhanced  by 
the  old  castle  erected  on  the  heights  above 
the  town  by  the  Scaligers. 

There  are  numerous  excursions  in  the 
vicinity :  The  Falls  of  Ponale  (which  may 

j  be  seen  from  the  steamers);  also  to  the 

I  Monto  Baldo;  and  to  the  Valley  of  Ledro 
and  Mori. 

On  returning  from  Riva  the  steamer 
stops  at  Malcesine,  a  town  of  2300  inhabit- 
ants. It  contains  a  fine  old  castle  of  the 
time  of  Charlemagne,  recently  restored. 

j  The  village  of  Garda  contains  a  population 
of  1200,  surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of 
vine?  and  olive  and  fig  trees.  There  \s  a 
ra.-tli'  here  which  belongs  to  Count  Alber- 
tini  of  Verona. 

Omnibuses  from  the  steamer  landing  to 
the  station  Peschiera,  which  is  1^  miles 

:  from  the  lake. 

Brescia.  —  Hotels,  Albergo   Reale  della 

Posta    and    Fmice.       Population,  41,000. 

Brescia  is  a  very  ancient  city  —  the  Brixia 

that  was  conquered  by  the  Gauls  and  aft- 

777 


BRESCIA. 


[ITALY.] 


BRESCIA. 


erward  became  a  Roman  colony.  It  was 
at  one  time  one  of  the  wealthiest  cities  in 
Lombardy,  and  was  celebrated  for  the  he- 
roism of  its  inhabitants  and  the  strength 
of  its  fortifications.  The  heroism  of  the 
Brescians  has  not  degenerated,  but  the  for- 
tifications are  much  dilapidated. 

Brescia  was  taken  by  the  French  dur- 
ing the  league  of  Cambray,  which  caused 
a  revolt,  and  resulted  in  being  retaken  1  y 
storm  in  1512,  on  which  occasion  Chevalier 
Bayard  was  so  seriously  wounded.  Gas- 
fon  de  Foix,  who  was  appointed  general 
of  Francis  I.'s  forces  while  yet  a  mere 
youth,  not  having  attained  his  twenty- 
third  year,  learning  that  the  city  of  Brescia 
had  been  delivered  over  to  the  Venetians, 
and  that  the  garrison  was  incapable  of 
longer  resistance,  hastened,  with  incredi- 
ble exertion  and  fatigue,  to  the  rescue  of 
that  place,  fought  two  battles,  achieved 
two  victories,  and,  on  arriving  before  the 
gates,  summoned  the  city  to  surrender,  be- 
ing anxious,  if  possible,  to  avoid  farther 
slaughter.  The  summons  was,  however, 
disregarded,  although  the  citizens  were  de- 
sirous that  it  should  be  complied  with. 
The  attack  commenced,  and  the  carnage 
which  ensued  was  fearful.  The  Venetians 
fought  desperately,  but  in  vain.  The  city 
was  taken,  the  garrison  and  population 
put  to  the  sword,  and  the  town  delivered 
up  to  all  the  horrors  of  pillage  and  vio- 
lence. The  brave  Bayard  fell  wounded 
by  a  pike  through  the  thigh,  which  broke 
in  the  wound,  and  was  borne  to  the  rear 
by  two  archers.  The  citizens,  women,  and 
children  harassed  the  invading  troops  by 
hurling  bricks  and  stones,  and  even  pour- 
ing boiling  water  from  the  windows  of  the 
houses  ;  but  ultimately  between  7000  and 
8000  Venetians  fell  in  action,  or  were 
butchered  as  they  attempted  to  escape, 
while  the  loss  of  the  French  did  not  ex- 
ceed 50  men.  Unhappily,  they  no  sooner 
saw  themselves  masters  of  the  city  than 
the  most  brutal  excesses  followed.  Mon- 
asteries and  convents  were  invaded,  pri- 
vate families  were  ruined  and  disgraced, 
and  the  gross  booty  secured  by  the  con- 
querors was  estimated  at  three  millions  of 
crown? — a  circumstance  which  ultimately 
proved  the  destruction  of  the  French  cause  I 
in  Italy,  numbers  of  the  individuals  thus  : 
suddenly  enriched  forsaking  their  posts 
and  returning  to  their  homes,  enfeebling 
778 


the  army  of  De  Foix,  and  conducing  to 
the  fatal  termination  of  the  battle  of  Ra- 
venna. Brescia  has  produced  some  emi- 
nent men,  among  whom  was  the  historian 
Mazzuchelli,  the  mathematician  Tartaglia, 
and  Agoni. 

Churches. — TihcDur,mo  Vecchio  was  built 
by  two  Lombard  dukes.  It  is  very  an- 
cient, having  been  commenced  in  660  A. D., 
and  finished  in  670.  It  still  retains  some 
old  tombs  and  paintings,  which,  howev- 
er, are  not  of  the  first  class.  The  Duo- 
mo  Xuovo  is  a  modern  edifice  of  white 
marble,  completed  in  1825.  The  dome  is 
very  large,  next  in  size  to  that  of  the  Ca- 
thedral at  Florence.  In  front  rf  this  build- 
ing  is  a  fountain,  with  an  allegorical  stat- 
ue of  the  city.  Church  of  St.  Afra  con- 
tains many  beautiful  frescoes  and  paint- 
ings ;  among  the  latter  is  Titian's  fine 
work,  '•  The  Woman  taken  in  Adultery." 
There  is  also  an  excellent  portrait  of  Paul 
Veronese  in  the  foreground  of  his  painting 
of  the  Martyrdom  of  St.  Afra.  The  church 
is  very  ancient,  and  has  been  repeatedly 
renovated.  A  temple  of  Saturn  formerly 
occupied  this  location.  Church  of  San  Na- 
zaro  e  Celso  is  richly  endowed  with  paint- 
ings, for  which  it  is  principally  remarka- 
ble. Church  of  San  Giovanni  Evangdista, 
the  oldest  church  in  Brescia ;  many  of 
Moretto's  finest  productions  are  here  dis' 
played.  Church  of  San  Francesco  con- 
tains a  painting  of  great  beauty,  represent- 
ing the  Marriage  of  the  Virgin,  by  Fran- 
cesco du  Pruto  di  Caravaggio,  whose  works 
are  very  rare.  It  was  in  this  building 
that  the  Brescians  took  the  oath  of  fidelity 
to  the  republic  of  Venice  in  1421.  Church 
of  San  Putro  in  0/ivtto  is  also  remarkable 
for  its  paintings,  containing  many  speci- 
mens of  the  Brescian  art. 

JiilJinti •:•(<  (^iiiriiiiiini,  founded  by  Cardi- 
nal Quirini  in  1750,  is  well  furnished  with 
ancient  MSS.  and  books  ;  it  now  contains 
40,000  volumes.  A  cop}'  of  the  Gospels, 
in  gold  and  silver,  of  the  9th  century,  is 
one  of  the  most  interesting  relics.  Its 
founder  was  most  liberal  in  donations  of 
early  and  curious  works ;  none  more  use- 
ful than  the  collection  of  Cardinal  Pole. 
Admission  daily  from  11  to  3  ;  fee',  50  c. 

The  Brol'tto,  or  ancient  palace  of  the  re- 
public, erected  of  brick,  of  peculiar  arclii 
tecture,  was  commenced  in  the  llth  centu- 
ry and  completed  in  the  12th.  The  armo- 


BBESCIA.  [ITALY.] 

rial  bearings  were  almost  entirely  destroy- 
ed in  1796.  It  contained  many  ancient 
historical  objects  of  interc.-t  and  some  ex- 
cellent paintings  previous  to  the  invasion 
of  the  French.  It  is  now  used  for  public 
ullices  and  prisons.  On  a  large  circular 
window  in  the  great  court  are  some  terra- 
cotta ornaments  of  great  beauty. 

Palasso  del Logffia,  in  the  Piazza  Vi  <•<•}(!•>. 
was  formerly  intended  for  the  town-hall. 
It  was  originally  as  beautiful  in  the  inte- 
rior as  in  the  exterior,  but  the  conflagra- 
tion of  the  18th  of  January.  1575,  defaced  it 
to  a  very  great  extent.  The  exterior  suf- 
fered somewhat  by  the  bombardment  of 
lsl'.i.  Many  of  Titian's  fine  paintings 
were  destroyed  at  the  time  of  the  confla- 
gration. 

.1/MA-fo  Cirirn. — The  city  is  indebted  to 
one  of  its  most  distinguished  citizens.  ( 'ount 
Torsi,  for  this  building  and  its  collections. 
The  most  valuable  of  its  contents  is  a  cel- 
ebrated work  of  Raphael,  representing  our 
Saviour  crowned  with  thorns,  for  which 
Count  Torsi  paid  24,000  francs.  It  for- 
merly belonged  to  the  Mosea  family  of  Pe-i 
saro.  The  paintings,  busts,  etc.,  are  ad- 
mirably in-ranged,  and  occupy  ten  different 
rooms.  There  arc  several  other  galleries 
containing  paintings  of  intere-t. 

The  gay  exteri;  r  of  the  palaces  of  Bres- 
cia add  much  to  the  appearance  of  the  city, 
also  its  numerous  squares  and  fountains — 
the  latter  7'2  in  number.  Its  public  insti- 
tutions are  numerous,  and  very  interest- 
ing in  appearance.  Altogether,  there  is 
an  air  of  grandeur  about  the  city  that  is 
very  impressive.  There  are  two  towers  in 
the  city,  the  Torre  dell'  Oroloi/ia,  and  the 
Torre  dtlla  J'niata.  The  former  has  a 
large  dial,  which  marks  the  course  of  the 
sun  and  moon,  and  the  hours  are  struck 
by  two  men  of  metal. 

J/«.sv<»  J'li/i •/...  op»n  from  11  to  3. 

The  antiquities  of  Brescia  add  much  to 
its  interest.  In  1820,  while  excavations 


BERGAMO. 


been  carefully  preserved,  and  placed  in  a 
museum  which  has  been  instituted  within 
this  edilice. 

The  Cumpo  Santo. — This  cemetery  is  kept 
in  most  excellent  order,  and  is  well  worth 
a  visit,  being  one  of  the  earliest  and  most 
interesting  cemeteries  in  Italy.  It  has  a, 
beautiful  chapel,  and  many  very  elegant 
monuments.  The  expense  of  burial  here 
is  very  moderate.  The  cypress  is  grown 
to  a  great  extent,  many  of  the  avenues  be- 
ing bordered  with  it. 

Brescia  has  five  gates — Porta  di  San 
Giovanni  leading  to  Milan,  San  Nazarro  to 
Crerna,  San  Alessandro  to  Cremona.  Tu- 
lunffa  to  Vienna  and  Mantua,  and  Porta 
Pili-  to  Val  Trompia. 

Carriages,  1  fr.  the  course,  !•£  fr.  the 
hour. 

••unit. — Principal  hotels,  A Iberffo  d' 
Italia,  and  ]'t-m:ia.  Population,  38,400. 
Bergamo  is  divided  into  two  portions,  up- 
per and  lower,  which  are  situated  half  a 
mile  from  each  other.  It  is  a  very  ancient 
city,  having  existed  under  the  Romans. 
During  the  French  ascendency  it  was  the 
capital  of  the  Department  of  Serio.  The 
most  ancient  portion  of  it  has  an  elevated 
situation,  and  is  inhabited  principally  by  the 
nobility.  The  streets  are  narrow,  and  the 
buildings  lofty  and  massive.  The  city  was 
strongly  fortified  by  the  Venetians  in  con- 
sequence of  its  position  ;  many  of  the  walls 
are  still  standing,  and,  having  been  con- 
verted into  boulevards,  afford  beautiful 
and  extended  views.  On  the  south  side 
of  the  town  is  a  most  interesting  walk,  ex- 
tending over  the  plains  of  Lomhardy  to  the 
Alps  and  Apennines,  in  which  the  steeples 
of  Cremona,  Monza,  and  .Milan  are  <-asi- 
ly  discernible.  Bergamo  has  been  most 
useful  to  the  musical  world  in  producing 
many  good  composers,  the  principal  ones 
being  Rubini  and  Donizetti.  A  monu- 
ment has  been  erected  to  the  latter  from 
the  design  of  Vela,  the  celebrated  Swiss 


were  being  made,  a  line  temple  of  white  sculptor,  in  the  church  of  Stu.  Maria 
marlile,  with  Corinthian  columns,  was  dis-  ,;',nr<-.  Many  other  eminent  men  claimed 
covered,  which  was  supposed  to  have  been  |  this  as  their  native  city  :  among  them  was 
dedicated  to  Hercules  in  the  year  7'J.  It  ISernardo  Ta-.-o,  father  of  Torquato,  the 
is  of  most  remarkable  architecture.  The  !  prince  of  It  ilian  poets  :  the  Abbe  Seras>i, 
masonry  is  very  magnificent.  Many  por-  author  of  the  Life  of  Tasso ;  and  Tirabos- 
tions  are  quite  perfect.  A  bronze  statue 
of  Victory  was  discovered  at  the  same  time. 


Many  of  the  relics,  such  as  Roman  inscrip- 
tions, fragments  of  architecture,  etc.,  have 


chi,  professor  of  rhetoric  at  Milan,  and  au- 
thor of  the  elaborate  and  invaluable  work 


entitled   '•  Storia   della    Letteratura   Itali- 


ana. 


779 


MILAN. 


[ITALY.] 


MILAN. 


Churches.  —  The  church  of  Sta.  Maria, 
Maggiore  is  composed  of  black  and  white 
marble,  and  man}*  portions  of  it  exhibit 
elaborate  workmanship.  The  interior  is 
richly  decorated  with  paintings.  The  Cam- 
panile is  300  feet  high,  and  is  a  most  con- 
spicuous object.  Adjoining  this  church  is 
the  Colleoni  Chapel:  the  principal  object 
of  interest  is  the  monument  by  Amadeo, 
erected  to  the  founder.  The  tomb  of  his 
child,  Medea  Colleoni,  is  also  remarkably 
fine.  The  Duomo :  the  most  attractive 
portion  of  this  edifice  is  its  cupola:  it  has 
an  ancient  baptistery  of  the  5th  century. 
There  are  several  other  churches,  contain- 
ing frescoes,  mosaics,  etc. 

The  Palazz1)  Nuovo  is  now  occupied  by 
the  municipal  authorities ;  it  has  never 
been  entirely  completed.  Palazzo  Vecchio, 
situated  opposite  to  the  above ;  in  front  of 
it  is  the  statue  of  Tasso.  Bergamo  has  a 
large  number  of  public  institutions :  a  pub- 
lic library  with  60,000  volumes;  Accade- 
mia  Carrara,  a  school  of  art  containing 
models  and  a  Picture-gallery,  open  daily 
from  10  to  3.  An  annual  fair  is  opened 
Aug.  22d,  lasting  14  days.  £1,200,000  is 
said  to  be  taken. 


MILAN. 

Population,  S21,839.  Hotel  de  la  Vilk, 
one  of  the  best  in  Italy ;  Hotel  Continental, 
a  magnificent  new  house,  close  to  the  cathe- 
dral ;  Hotel  du  Nord,  conveniently  situated 
opposite  the  station. 

Milan  is  situated  in  a  richly  cultivated 
plain,  and  connected  with  the  Olono  and 
Lam  bra,  and  is  connected  with  these  rivers 
by  the  Variglio  Grande  and  other  canals, 
79  miles  from  Turin  and  150  from  Venice. 
It  is  the  principal  city  of  N.  Italy,  nearly 
circular  in  its  formation,  and  is  surround- 
ed by  a  wall  which  was  mostly  erected  by 
the  Spaniards  in  1555.  The  space  between 
the  canal  and  wall  is  laid  out  in  gardens 
and  planted  with  fine  trees  ;  the  city  prop- 
er is  about  eight  miles  in  circumference, 
and  although,  like  most  ancient  cities,  it  is 
very  irregularly  laid  out,  yet  it  is  one  of 
the  most  interesting  in  Europe,  full  of  ac- 
tivity and  wealth,  has  some  noble  thor- 
oughfares, and  displays  a  number  of  fine 
780 


buildings  kept  in  thorough  repair.  An  ad- 
vancement in  improvements  of  all  kinds 
is  visible,  and  is  free  from  every  symptom 
of  a  declining  population.  It  is  a  great 
business  city,  and  monetary  transactions 
are  exceedingly  well  conducted,  and  is  ex- 
tremely advantageous  to  the  traveler  in 
point  of  obtaining  extended  letters  of  cred- 
it, etc. 

Milan  stands  at  an  elevated  height  of 
452  feet  above  the  sea.  It  was  annexed 
to  the  Roman  dominions  by  Scipio  Nasica 
191  B.C.  It  ranked  the  sixth  city  in  the 
Roman  empire  in  the  4th  century.  In 
the  12th  century  it  was  the  capital  of  a  re- 
public, and  afterward  of  a  duchy  in  the 
families  of  Sforza  and  Visconti.  It  w:is 
held  by  Spain,  after  the  battle  of  Pavh, 
until  it  was  ceded  to  Austria  in  1714.  It 
was  taken  by  the  French  in  1790,  and  also 
after  the  battle  of  Marengo  in  1800.  From 
1805  until  1814  it  was  the  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  Italy.  The  barracks  of  Milan 
are  very  extensive :  the  largest,  Caserna 
Grande,  is  900  feet  in  length  and  700  in 
width.  In  front  and  on  the  sides  is  tho 
Foro  Bonap'irte,  laid  out  in  elegant  walks 
planted  with  trees.  In  the  rear  is  a  largo 
open  space  called  the  Piazza  d'Armi,  where 
the  Simplon  road  commences  by  the  Arco 
delta  Pace.  This  arch  is  a  fine  specimen 
of  modern  architecture ;  it  is  of  marble, 
richly  adorned  with  statues,  and  was  de- 
signed by  the  Marquis  Cagnola.  Its  length 
is  73  feet,  depth  42  feet,  and  height  74; 
98  feet  to  the  top  of  the  principal  statue. 
Facing  the  city  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Peace 
in  a  car  drawn  by  six  horses. 

The  city  is  entered  by  ten  gates ;  tha 
richest  one.  and  the  most  remarkable,  is 
the  Port  a  Orientale.  Many  of  the  others 
are  interesting  from  historical  associations, 
such  as  the  Porta  Ticinese,  leading  to  Pa- 
vin,  through  which  Bonaparte  passed  after 
the  battle  of  Marengo  ;  and  the  Porta  Ro- 
m'uni,  erected  at  the  time  of  the  arrival  of 
Margaret  of  Austria,  wife  of  Philip  III.  of 
Spain.  Between  the  Porta  Tanaglia  and 
the  Porta  Vicellina  stood,  in  former  times, 
the  ducal  castle  erected  by  Galeazzo  Vis- 
conti II.  in  1358.  It  was  destroyed  after 
tho  duke's  death,  but  rebuilt  by  Francesco 
Sforzi,  and  has  since  been  converted  into 
a  barrack,  which  has  been  greatly  strength- 
ened since  the  outbreak  of  1849.  During 
Eugene  Beauharnais's  government  a  Doric 


M 


.  armne- 

S..Vur.iMlf   Graxif 

Iruaranata, 
S.  Oar  deJla.  faff ia 

tyreta 

SJtfO-.det  Jcrvi  Idf 
S.Ma,.aV.,l'.,rt<> 


Hurpei 


A  N 


fe 


Sand-book 


MILAN. 


[ITALY.] 


MILAN. 


gateway  was  erected  of  granite,  with  a 
portico  in  the  same  style.  The  Amphi- 
theatre is  located  on  one  side  of  the  I'iu:.:it 
d'Armi,  and  is  capable  of  accommodating 
SO, 000  spectators.  Aquatic  sports  might 
easily  take,  place  here,  the  facilities  for 
flooding  it,  being  very  extensive.  Napo- 
leon witnessed  a  regatta,  here  in  1807. 

CHURCHES. 

Ths  Duomo. — This  magnificent  cathe- 
dral astonishes  and  enchants  the  beholder. 
Fear  not  that  you  are  expecting  more 
grandeur  and  beauty  than  you  will  realize, 
for  this  is  impossible.  It  does  occur  with 
other  buildings,  even  with  St.  Peter's,  but 
never  with  this  sublime  creation  of  art. 
'•  Its  forest  of  pinnacles,  its  wilderness  of 
tracery,  delicately  marked  against  the  gray 
sky,  the  impression  sinks  deeper  and  deep- 
er into  the  mind,  wonderful !  wonderful!" 
What  a  head  was  that  which  gave  birth 
to  this  conception!  How  it  must  have 
glowed  as  the  great  temple  sprang  forth 
within  it,  holding  up  its  pinnacles  to  heav- 
en, and  shedding  this  sense  of  grandeur 
upon  earth.  The  style  of  architecture,  al- 
though somewhat  varied  in  consequence  of 
being  such  a  length  of  time  in  process  of 
erection,  and  the  different  ideas  of  a  large 
number  of  artists  displayed  upon  it,  is 
universally  admitted  to  be  of  exquisite 
beauty.  It  is  constructed  entirely  of  white 
marble  from  the  quarries  of  the  Gandoglia, 
beyond  Lake  Maggiore,  which  was  be- 
queathed to  the  Duomo  by  (iian  (ialoazzo. 
It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross ;  the  en- 
tire length  of  the  building  is  490  feet, 
breadth  18(1 ;  height  to  the  top  of  the  stat- 
ue 354  feet,  length  of  the  transept  284  feet, 
height  of  the  nave  152  feet.  The  farade 
presents  a  fine  general  effect ;  the  central 
tower  and  spire  is  very  beautiful.  There 
are  accommodations  for  several  thousand 
statues,  but  the  precise  number  we  are  un- 
able to  give,  not  having  had  time  to  count 
them ;  however,  for  the  benefit  of  those  who 
would  like  to  judge  for  themselves,  we  will 
give  the  statement  of  different  authors  : 
M'Culloch  says  4500  ;  Dr.  S.  I.  Prime,  au- 
thor of  "  Travels  in  Europe  and  the  Knst." 
affirms  that  there  are  already  7000,  and 
places  for  3000  more:  "  Murray"  says  1  lui. 
which  is  the  most  correct.  In  order  to  ap- 
preciate full}-  the  grandeur  of  the  Duoino, 
every  person  who  can  do  so  should  ascend 
VOL.  II.— L  2 


the  flight  of  160  steps  to  the  roof.  Ticket, 
25  c.  The  most  delightful  time  for  enjoy- 
ing this  the  widest  and  loveliest  prospect  in 
Italy  is  before  sunrise  or  after  sunset,  par- 
ticularly the  latter,  as  an  Italian  sky  at  this 
hour  of  the  day  is  surpassingly  beautiful. 
There  is  a  watchman  on  the  top  with  a 
good  telescope,  who  will  point  out  four  of 
the  statues  which  are  by  Canova. 

"All  itshii 

From  the  rich  gunset  to  the  rising  star,, 
Their  magical  variety  diffuse  : 
And  now  they  change ;  a  paler  shadow  strews 
Its  mantle  o'er  the  mountains;  parting  day 
Dies  like  the  dolphin,  whom  each  pang  imbues 
With  a  new  color  :is  it  {i;isps  away, 
The  last  still  loveliest,  till — 'tis  gone,  and  all  U 
gnvy." 

The  interior  of  the  Cathedral  is  very  im- 
posing: "Its  double  aisles,  its  clustered 
pillars,  its  lofty  arches,  the  lustre  of  its 
walls,  its  numberless  niches  filled  with 
marble  figures,  give  it  an  appearance  nov- 
el even  in  Italy,  and  singularly  majestic." 
The  view  is  not  in  the  least  obstructed,  al- 
though it  contains  many  clusters  of  pillars 
which  support  the  vault,  nearly  90  feet  in 
height,  but.  being  onty  8  feet  in  diameter, 
scarcely  conceal  any  portion  of  the  build- 
ing from  the  eye.  The  high  altar  is  situ- 
ated, as  in  all  other  ancient  churches,  be- 
tween the  clergy  and  the  congregation,  and 
immediately  before  the  choir.  In  a  sub- 
terraneous chiipel  beneath  the  dome  is  a 
shrine  in  which  ;ir<3  inclosed  the  remains 
of  St.  Charles  Borromeo,  archbishop  of  Mi- 
lan in  the  l(>th  century.  The  five  door- 
ways were  executed  by  Mangoni  in  1548 ; 
the  two  marble  columns  on  either  side  of 
the  centre  doorway  are  composed  of  a  sin- 
gle block  of  stone,  and  were  presented  by 
St.  Charles.  1  he  pavement,  composed  of 
red,  blue,  and  white  mosaics,  is  arranged 
most  tastefully  in  different  figures ;  the 
whole  scene  is  greatly  enlivened  by  the 
morning  sun,  which  shines  through  the 
eastern  window.  The  three  immense  win- 
dows behind  the  high-altar  are  very  im- 
posing, and  the  dark  bronzes  of  the  pulpit 
increase  the  brilliancy  of  the  background. 

Suspended  from  the  vaulting  over  the 
altar  is  a  casket  containing  one  of  the  nails 
of  the  cross,  which  is  always  exposed  at 
the  annual  feast  of  the  *'  Invention  (jin<i- 
inif)  of  the  Holy  Cross,"  at  which  time  it 
is  also  carried  through  the  streets  with  all 
due  solemnity,  and  followed  by  a  proces- 
781 


MILAN. 


[ITALY.] 


MILAN. 


sion.  Among  the  other  relics  belonging 
to  the  Cathedral  is  the  toivel  with  -which 
Christ  washed  the  feet  of  the  disciples,  part 
of  the  purple  robe  which  he  wore,  and  some 
of  the  thorns  from  his  crown  ;  a  stone  from 
the  Holy  Sepulchre ;  the  rod  of  Moses ; 
teeth  which  belonged  to  Daniel,  Abraham, 
John,  and  Elisha,  etc. 

This  cathedral  is  certainly  the  finest 
Gothic  edifice  in  Italy,  and,  as  a  church, 
ranks  next  to  St.  Peter's.  No  person  can 
fail  to  be  impressed  with  its  sublimity  ;  and 
the  idea  suggests  itself  to  one  beholding  it 
that,  although  Nature  in  her  works  was  so 
perfectly  faultless  and  impressive,  man,  in 
his  efforts  to  compete  with  her,  was  brought 
into  very  dose  alliance.  If  so  grand  at 
all  times,  how  greatly  must  that  grandeur 
be  increased  when  the  entire  building  is  il- 
luminated, as  it  was  after  the  battle  of  Ma- 
genta, and  to  celebrate  at  the  same  time 
the  anniversary  of  the  five  flays  of  March, 
1848,  when  the  Milanese  rose  and  expelled 
their  Austrian  masters  ?  After  the  entire 
city  was  illuminated,  gorgeous  rays  of 
light,  representing  the  Italian  colors,  red, 
green,  and  white,  blazed  forth  simultane- 
ously from  this  magnificent  edifice  ;  spire, 
roof,  and  body  presenting  a  mysterious 
grandeur  and  sublime  beauty,  with  which 
no  one  could  fail  to  be  everlastingly  im- 
pressed. The  delicate  tints  of  the  crim- 
son, as  they  reflected  upon  the  white  mar- 
ble of  the  Cathedral,  were  scarcely  surpass- 
ed by  the  deeper  color  which  it  afterward 
assumed,  and  so  mysteriously  changed  to 
green,  and  then  to  the  purest  white. 

Tombs  and  Monuments. — These  are  very 
numerous,  but  we  shall  endeavor  to  give 
the  most  important.  Tomb  of  Giovanni 
Giacomo  de'  Medici,  uncle  of  San  Carlo 
Borromeo,  designed  by  Michael  Angelo  ; 
tombs  of  Cardinal  Caracciolo,  governor  of 
Milan,  and  Giovanni  Andrea  Vimercati,  a 
canon  of  the  Cathedral,  are  very  striking. 
Monument  of  Marco  Carelli,  a  benefactor, 
is  quite  remarkable  ;  also  the  tomb  of  Ot- 
tone  Visconti,  archbishop  of  Milan,  is  com- 
posed of  red  Verona  marble.  Above  this 
tomb  is  a  sitting  statue  of  Pope  Pius  IV. 

Chap  I  of  the  Holy  Sacrament,  or  dell'  Al- 
bero,  derives  its  name  from  the  splendid 
candelabrum  which  stands  before  it,  pre- 
sented by  Giovanni  Battista  Trivulzio, 
archpriest  x>f  the  Cathedral.  It  contains 
quite  a  number  of  slab  tombs,  statues,  etc. 
782 


The  Baptistery  contains  the  ancient  font 
from  the  bath  of  the  lower  empire,  where 
baptism  was  administered  bv  immersion. 
On  the  high-altar  is  the  superb  tabernacle 
of  gilt  bronze,  adorned  with  figures  of  our 
Saviour  and  the  twelve  apostles,  presented 
by  Pius  IV. 

In  the  subterranean  cburch  under  the 
choir  services  are  performed  during  the 
winter,  it  being  more  comfortable  thac  the1! 
one  above.  From  this  you  enter  the  chap- 
el of  San  Carlo.  It  is  lighted  by  an  open- 
ing in  the  pavement  above,  but  tapers  are 
used  to  increase  the  light,  which  is  not 
sufficiently  strong  to  allow  the  objects  to 
be  seen.  The  walls  are  covered  by  illus- 
trations of  the  principal  events  in  the  life 
of  the  saint.  His  body  is  deposited  in  a 
very  elegant  shrine  of  gold  and  gilded  sil- 
ver, presented  by  Philip  IV.  of  Spain. 
The  corpse  is  arrayed  in  splendid  robss  in 
an  inner  coffin,  and  seen  through  panes  of 
rich  crystal,  resembling  the  finest  glass. 
The  principal  sacristy  crntains  mai.y  ob- 
jects of  interest,  especially  the  specimens 
of  jewelry,  which  are  very  elegant. 

Church  of  St.  Ambrogio,  founded  and 
dedicated  to  the  martyrs  of  SS.  Gerva- 
sius  and  Protasius,  whose  bones  were  re- 
moved here  by  St.  Ambrose  while  Bishop 
of  Milan.  The  building,  as  it  now  stand?, 
was  erected  by  Archbishop  Anspertus. 
Among  the  most  interesting  relics  of  this 
church  are  the  doors,  containing  small 
panels,  which  are  a  portion  of  the  gates 
closed  by  St.  Ambrose  against  the  Emper- 
or Theodosius  after  he  slaughtered  the  in- 
habitants of  Thessalonica.  They  are  com- 
posed of  cypress,  and  are  extremely  ancient 
in  appearance.  Beneath  the  high-altar  are 
deposited  the  remains  of  St.  Ambrozio,  and 
of  Saints  Gcrvashis  and  Protasius.  Over 
the  altar  is  the  canopy  glittering  with  gold 
and  supported  by  columns  of  porphyry. 

One  of  the  finest  specimens  of  art  is  the 
elaborate  facing  of  the  altar.  The  front  is 
divided  into  three  compartments,  contain- 
ing smaller  tablets  composed  of  plates  of 
gold  ;  the  back  and  sides  of  silver  set  with 
precious  stones,  and  richly  enameled.  It 
is  kept  closely  covered  most  of  the  time, 
but  is  shown  upon  the  receipt  of  a  small 
fee  by  the  sacristan.  It  was  presented  by 
Archbishop  Angilbertis  II.  in  836,  and  the 
name  of  "Volvonius,"  the  artist,  is  still 
preserved  upon  it.  In  1795  the  Eevolu- 


MILAN. 


[ITALY.] 


MILAN. 


tionary  Commissioners  nude  an  attempt 
to  seize  it,  for  the  purposa  of  melting  it 
Jown.  The  Pulpt  i-  a  singular  structure, 
built  upon  eight  arches;  the  vaulting  of 
the.  tribune  is  a  splendid  specimen  of  By- 
/  inline  art ;  it  is  covered  with  mosaic  upon 
a  ground-work  of  gold,  and  dates  back  to 
the  9th  century.  The  chair  of  St.  Am- 
brose, curiously  decorated,  stands  in  the 
centre  of  the  tribune.  The  chapel  of  •>'•»/( 
Satiro  contains  many  fine  mosaics,  the 
most  interesting  of  any  in  the  church. 

I:i  this  church  the    German   emperors 
usually  received  the  Lombard  crown.   Here  | 
also  is  the  brazen   serpent  fabricated  by  , 

in  the  wilderness.  Adjoining  this 
church  is  the  Convent  of  St.  Ambrozio,  now 
tli,-  Miiit'iri/  /Iitfpltil.  It  was  formerly 
very  splendid,  and  traces  of  its  beauty  are  ; 
still  visible.  The  interior  of  the  refectory 
lj  a  fine  specimen  of  Italian  decorations  in 
fresco,  by  C t':*t<)  (In  Lodi. 

Church  of  St.  Eustorgio  is  one  of  the 
most  ancient  churches  in  the  city :  it  was 
dedicated  in  the  4th  century  by  Archbish- 
op Eustorzio.  It  escaped  the  destruction 
01"  Uarbarossa,  and  has  been  remodeled, 
and  much  reduced  in  size.  Th.3  monuments 
exceed  in  interest  any  in  Milan.  They  arc 
placed  in  the  different  chapels.  The  most 
ivin  irkable  areas  follows  :  One,  very  beau- 
tifully executed,  erected  to  Stefano  Brivio; 
marble  monument  to  the  son  of  Guido  To- 
relli,  Lord  of  Guastalla  in  1416;  tomb  of 
Stefano  Visconti,  son  of  Matteo  Magno  (this 
is  very  ancient :  the  design  is  a  sarcopha- 
gus supported  by  eight  columns,  resting  on 
lions  of  marble') ;  monuments  of  Uberto 
Visconti  and  the  wife  of  Matteo  Magno ; 
and  tombs  of  Caspar  Visconti  and  his  wife 
Agnes.  In  the  chapel  of  Pietro  Martiri  is 
a  very  beautiful  monument  erected  to  the  [ 
saint.  Here  are  also  many  fine  statues, 
and  allegorical  representations  of  the  vir- 
tues. On  the  outside  of  the  church  is  a 
pulpit,  from  which  St.  Pii-tro  preached  to  i 
the  heretics.  He  was  murdered  near  Bar- 
lassina.  and  was  canonized  by  the  Church 
of  Rome  V.\  years  after  his  death,  his  prin- 
ciples being  greatly  admired.  A  statue 
has  been  erected  in  the  Plaza  opposite  upon 
a  lofty  granite  column. 

Church  of  La  Madonna  di  San  (' 
one  of  the  richest  churches  in  the   city. 
The  court  in  front  is  exceeding!}'  hand- 
some, and  the  facade  remarkable  for  its 


sculptures.  The  Altar  of  the  Virgin,  rich 
in  cloth  and  gold,  has  the  figure  still  pre- 
served upon  it ;  on  either  side  of  the  fine 
organ  are  status  of  the  prophets.  The 
cupola  has  twelve  sides,  and  as  many  st:tt- 
u  -.  It  is  >aiil  that  on  the  site  of  the  pres- 
ent edifice  St.  Ambrose  placed  a  picture 
of  the  Madonna,  who  afterward  appeared 
there  on  the  30th  of  Dec.,  1483.  This  mir- 
acle drew  so  many  persons  to  the  church, 
which  was  then  a  very  small  one,  that  it 
was  deemed  judicious  to  erect  the  present 
building,  \\iiich  was  commenced  in  1491. 

Church  of  Santa  Maria  delk  Gmzit,  to- 
gether with  the  Dominican  convent,  was 
founded  in  the  year  1463.  The  interior  of 
the  church  still  presents  a  grand  appear- 
ance, although  extremely  dilapidated.  The 
frescoes  and  paintings  in  the  different  chap- 
els are  good,  and  the  altar  is  beautifully 
inlaid  with  marble.  On  the  wall  of  th« 
refectory  is  the  magnificent  Cenacola,  or 
"  Last  Supper,"  by  Da  Vinci ;  it  is  30  feet 
in  length  by  1.3  in  height.  It  has  suffered 
dreadfully  from  damp,  age,  and  violence, 
but  still  remains  the  most  celebrated  paint- 
ing in  the  world.  The  monks  cut  a  door 
through  the  wall,  cutting  away  the  feet  of 
the  principal  figure,  and  it  was  violated  to 
a  still  greater  extent  when  Napoleon  had 
possession  of  Milan,  the  monastery  being 
used  for  barracks,  and  this  room  as  a  sta- 
ble. This  paintinir  was  one  of  Da  Vinci's 
lirst  works,  upon  which  he  was  employed 
srxteen  years ;  the  head  of  our  Saviour, 
which  is  really  the  most  beautifully  con- 
ceived portion  of  the  entire  subject,  was 
the  only  part  which  he  felt  his  inability  to 
do  perfect  justice  to  (Raphael  and  Rubens 
have  also  expressed  inability) ;  but  bis 
success  proved  to  be  beyond  criticism  or 
comparison.  Many  a  tear  has  l>een  shed 
by  travelers  while  viewing  this  lovely  yet 
sad  composition  ;  lost  in  admiration  of  its 
magnificence,  we  sit  before  it  and  gaze 
upon  the  attractive  features  of  John  and 
Peter,  expressing  so  much  love  and  im- 
pulse, and  turning  from  them  to  the  miser- 
able, wretched  traitor,  until  we  are  moved 
by  every  touch  of  skill  bestowed  by  so 
truthful  and  glorious  a  master.  But  few 
•  re  it  will  lie  entirely  ob- 
literated fri'Tii  the  view  of  those  who  would 
wisb  to  behold  this  lovely  composition,  all 
efforts  of  modern  artists  to  restore  its  for- 
mer beauty  having  proved  ineffectual. 
783 


MILAN. 


[ITALY.] 


MILAN. 


"  Leonardo  da  Vinci  was  the  son  of  Pie- 
tro  da  Vinci,  a  notary.  He  was  born  in 
the  castle  Da  Vinci,  near  Florence,  in 
1452 ;  he  early  became  a  pupil  of  Andrea 
Verocchia,  and  attained  distinction  with 
the  first  years  of  his  manhood.  He  paint- 
ed some  time  at  Florence,  afterward  at  Mi- 
lan. By  the  command  of  Leo  X.  he  visit- 
ed Rome  in  his  sixty-first  year ;  there  he 
found  Raphael  and  Michael  Angelo  in  the 
plenitude  of  their  powers,  and,  from  pru- 
'dential  reasons,  did  not  enter  the  lists  with 
them.  Upon  the  invitation  of  Francis  I. 
he  went  to  Paris,  where  he  terminated  his 
earthly  career  at  the  ripe  age  of  seventy- 
live."  "  Francis  was  affectionately  at- 
tached to  his  distinguished  protege,  whom 
he  had  loaded  with  honors ;  and  he  no 
sooner  ascertained  that  his  end  was  ap- 
proaching than  he  hastened  to  the  death- 
chamber.  Da  Vinci  had  just  received  the 
last  consolations  of  religion  when  he  dis- 
covered the  presence  of  the  king,  and,  de- 
spite his  exhaustion,  he  endeavored  to  rise 
in  his  bed,  in  order  to  express  his  sense  of 
the  favor  which  was  thus  shown  him ;  but 
the  effort  was  too  great,  and,  before  he  had 
uttered  more  than  a  few  sentences  express- 
ive of  his  regret  that  he  had  not  used  his 
talents  more  profitably  for  religion,  he  was 
seized  with  a  paroxysm  which  rendered 
him  speechless.  As  he  fell  back  upon  his 
pillow,  the  king  sprang  forward  and  raised 
his  head  upon  his  arm  ;  and  thus,  upon  the 
bosom  of  the  young  monarch,  Leonardo  da 
Vinci  drew  his  last  breath.  The  good  ef- 
fects of  his  sojourn  at  the  French  court  did 
not,  however,  expire  with  him.  Although 
he  had  declined,  owing  to  his  advanced 
age,  to  undertake  any  new  work,  he  had 
given  public  lessons  and  lectures  which 
had  awakened  an  emulation  in  art  destined 
to  produce  the  most  benelicial  results  ;  and 
the  three  famous  artists,  Censin,  Janet, 
and  Limoges,  were  alike  his  pupils. "  ' ;  Le- 
onardo was  not  only  the  earliest  in  time 
of  the  four  great  boasts  of  modern  paint- 
ing, the  others  being  Correggio,  Raphael, 
and  Titian,  but  an  accomplished  engineer, 
architect,  poet,  musician,  and  engraver. 
The  art  of  painting  in  chiaro-oscuro  is 
said  to  owe  its  perfection  to  him.  lie  did 
not  study  the  antique,  but  evolved  his 
magical  grace  of  outline,  as  well  as  his 
marvelous  conception  of  character,  from 
the  study  of  nature  and  the  clear  depths  of 
784 


his  own  consciousness.  A  monument  was 
inaugurated  in  1880,  in  the  Piazza  Santa 
Maria,  in  memory  of  the  patriots  who  fell 
at  Mentone  in  18G7. 

Church  of  San  Vittore  al  Corpo,  former- 
ly the  Basilica  Porziano.  The  interior 
magnificence  of  this  church  is  noted,  and 
all  the  decorations  are  of  the  most  elabo- 
rate description.  The  location  commem- 
orates the  spot  where  the  patron  St.Victor, 
who  was  a  soldier  in  the  army  of  Maxim- 
ian,  suffered  martyrdom  ;  he  was  beheaded 
A.D.  303.  In  this  church  are  some  fine 
paintings,  sculpture,  and  monuments. 

S.  Carlo  Borromeo,  a  modern  church, 
contains  two  marble  groups  by  Marchesi, 
and  some  fine  stained-glass  windows. 

In  the  Piazzi  del  Carmini  is  the  hand- 
some Gothic  church  of  S.  Maria  del  Car- 
minu,  with  a  Madonna  by  I  Mini. 

San  Lorenzo,  the  oldest  church  in  Milan ; 
an  object  of  great  interest  to  architects. 

San  A  lessandro,  erected  in  the  17th  cen- 
tury ;  highly  decorated,  but  containing  no 
works  of  art. 

The  Piazza  del  Duomo  was  formerly 
crowded  with  small  houses  and  surround- 
ed by  narrow  streets.  It  is  now  becom- 
ing the  centre  of  business,  and.  for  the  pur- 
pose of  developing  the  beauties  of  the 
Duomo,  it  is  the  intention  of  the  govern- 
ment to  surround  it  with  beautiful  build- 
ings at  a  greater  distance  ;  this  idea  has 
been  inaugurated  by  the  erection  of  the 
very  handsome  structure  Galleria  Vittorio 
Kniiiiniflf,  which  connects  the  Piazza  del 
Duomo  with  the  Scala.  Its  length  is  9CO 
feet,  built  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross, 
with  an  octagon  in  the  centre:  this  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  cupola  180  feec  high.  The 
architect  was  Menyoni,  who  deserves  all 
honor  for  the  exquisite  tasto  displayed. 
The  cost  was  nearly  eight  million  francs. 
It  contains  handsome  shops,  which  are 
lighted  at  night  with  two  thousand  jets  of 
gas.  The  building  was  inaugurated  in 
1867. 

Palazzo  di  Corte:  this  noble  structure 
was  erected  by  the  French  upon  the  site 
of  the  old  Sforzi  palace.  It  was  one  of 
the  finest  p:il;iccs  in  It:ilv.  with  numerous 
spacious  apartments  decorated  with  ele- 
gant paintings,  and  some  of  the  rooms 
hung  with  Gobelin  tapestry.  But  little  of 
it  now  remains  except  the  chapel  of  San 


MILAN. 


LITAUY.J 


MILAN. 


Gotardo,  the  steeple  of  which  is  a  singular 
specimen  of  the  architecture  of  the  14th 
century,  and  is  considered  one  of  the  finest 
in  Milan.  It  was  the  first  to  contain  a 
clock  which  struck  the  hours  ;  from  this 
circumstance  the  neighboring  street  was 
named  ''Dell'  Ore."  In  connection  with 
the  gilt  brass  angel  on  the  summit,  a  singu- 
lar story  may  be  related  :  "  A  bombardier 
in  1333  lieing  condemned  to  die,  offered  to 
beat  down  the  head  of  the  figure  at  one  shot, 
and  being  allowed  his  trial,  he  succeeded, 
and  his  skill  purchased  his  pardon."  The 
tomb  of  Giovanni  Maria  Visconti  was  in 
the  chapel  of  St.  Gothard,  near  the  altar, 
but  has  been  entirely  destroyed.  It  was 
while  he  was  proceeding  to  church  on  the 
16th  of  May,  1412,  that  he  was  slain.  The 
barbarous  cruelty  of  this  tyrant  is  almost 
incredible,  his  favorite  amusement  being 
to  witness  his  bloodhounds  tear  into  pieces 
the  bodies  of  human  beings. 

The  Brera  has  a  noble  collection  of 
paintings  by  most  of  the  artists  of  Italy, 
best  and  second-best,  also  many  engrav- 
ings. It  is  open  daily  from  9  to  4  in  sum- 
mer, and  from  9  to  3  in  winter.  Sundays 
from  12  to  4.  In  the  centre  of  the  court 
there  is  a  fine  statue  of  Napoleon  I.,  by 
Ccmova.  He  is  robed  as  a  Roman  em- 
peror ;  in  his  right  hand  he  holds  a  statue 
of  Victor}'  and  in  his  left  a  long  staff. 
The  Observatory  belonging  to  the  Brera 
was  founded  in  1762,  under  the  direction 
of  Father  Boscovich.  Many  fine  instru- 
ments are  provided  here,  and  the  obser- 
vations are  published  annually  by  Carlinio, 
the  director.  In  the  entrance-hall  of  the 
Pinacoteca  are  many  frescoes  of  different 
Lombard  masters. 

Pinacoteca. — Paintings. — Room  1st :  Ti- 
tian—St.  Jerome  in  the  Desert.  Eubens 
—the  Institution  of  the  Lord's  Supper. 
Agostina  Caracci — Woman  taken  in  Adul- 
tery. Annibale  Caracci — the  Woman  of 
.Samaria  at  the  Well,  etc.  Room 'Id:  Tin- 
toretto— Holy  Cross,  with  many  Saints  and 
a  Pieta.  Paul  Veronese — St.  Gregory  and 
St.  Jerome,  St.  Ambrose  and  St.  Augustine, 
and  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  also  the  Mar- 
riage of  Cana.  ]•!<><> m  :;</.-  Gentine  Belli- 
ni— St.  Mark  preaching  at  Alexandria  in 
Egypt.  Giovanni  Sanzio,  fntln  r  /«  lin- 
jihinl — a  fine  picture  of  the  Annunciation. 
Paul  Veronese — our  Saviour  in  the  house 
of  Simon  the  Pharisee.  Giotto — the  Vir- 


gin and  Child  signed.  Rooms  6th  and  1th : 
Albani  —  Triumph  of  Love  over  Pluto. 
Guercino  —  Abraham  dismissing  Hagar. 
much  admired  by  Byron.  Andrea  Man- 
tegna  —  a  Dead  Saviour  and  two  Marys. 
Raphael — Marriage  of  the  Virgin,  one  of 
his  earliest  and  most  interesting  works. 
Rooms  8th  and  9<A  .•  Alessandro  Turchi — 
full-length  Magdalene.  Bonifazio  —  Pre- 
sentation of  the  Infant  Moses  to  Pharoah's 
Daughter.  Sassoferrato — the  Virgin  and 
Infant  sleeping.  Rooms  Wth  and  llth  : 
Salvator  Rosa — the  Souls  in  Purgatory. 
Leonardo  da  Vinci — the  Virgin  and  Child 
with  a  Lamb.  Camillo  Procaccini  —  the 
Nativity,  with  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds. 
Gaudenzio  Ferrari — the  Martyrdom  of  St. 
Catharine.  Room  1.2th  :  Leonardo  da  Vin- 
ci —  Head  of  our  Lord  in  red  and  black 
chalk.  The  Museo Lfipidario  contains  some 
very  ancient  and  interesting  sculptures. 

The  hiblioteca  Ambrosianu,  open  daily 
from  10  to  3,  except  Sundays.  It  contains 
5600  MSS.  and  175,000  printed  volumes. 
This  institution  was  founded  by  Cardinal 
Federigo  Borromeo,  archbishop  of  Milan, 
and  was  the  earliest  library  in  Europe  open 
to  the  public.  The  MSS.  are  of  the  high- 
est importance,  many  of  which  have  been 
brought  from  suppressed  convents :  among 
them  is  a  note-book  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci's  ; 
lost  oration  of  Cicero ;  translations  from 
Homer.  Josephus,  and  others  ;  Livy  trans- 
lated into  English  ;  a  volume  of  drawings 
by  Da  Vinci.  A  large  sum  of  money  was 
offered  for  these  works,  which  were  origi- 
nally in  12  volumes,  by  the  King  of  En- 
land  ;  it  was,  however,  refused,  and  the  vol- 
umes were  presented  to  the  library  by 
Galeazzo  Areonote;  11  of  them,  however, 
were  removed  to  Paris  at  the  time  the 
French  occupied  Lombardy.  There  is  also 
the  correspondence  between  Cardinal  Bem- 
bo  and  Lucreti*  Borgia,  with  a  lock  of  her 
hair  attached. 

The  principal  room  is  adorned  with  a 
frieze  of  portraits  of  distinguished  individ- 
uals ;  it  also  contains  busts  of  Lord  Byron, 
Thorwaldsen,  etc. 

The  Gallery  and  Museum  possess  a  great 
many  paintings,  statues,  drawings,  etc. 

The  T<nt rn  di-lln  Srala. — This  is  the 
Opera-house  of  Milan,  and  is  the  finest  in 
the  world,  surpassing  even  that  of  San 
Carlo  at  Naples.  The  interior  arrange- 
ments are  very  fine :  it  has  six  tiers  of 
785 


[ITALY.] 


MILAN. 


boxes,  and  will  accommodate  3600  specta- 
tors :  most  of  the  boxes  are  private,  and 
have  small  rooms  attached.  The  stride  is 
150  feet  deep.  Length  of  the  building 
from  the  front  of  the  centre  box  to  the  cur- 
tain is  95  feet,  and  width  73  feet.  Milan 
has  eight  other  theatres,  two  of  which  are 
open  for  day  performances. 

The  Piazza  dtlla  Scala  was  embellished 
in  1872  by  the  erection  of  a  handsome 
monument  in  Carrara  marble  to  the  mem- 
ory of  Leonardo  <l<t  Vinci.  It  is  of  heroic 
size,  situated  on  a  lofty  pedestal,  surround- 
ed by  four  of  his  pupils  —  Oggioitr.  <In 
Sesto,  Beltrajfiu,  and  Salario.  The  ped- 
estal is  adorned  with  some  of  his  works 
in  relief. 

Teatro  Reale  has  generally  good  operas , 
so  also  the  Carcano  theatre. 

Ospedale  Grande. — This  most  excellent 
and  well-regulated  institution  was  found- 
ed by  Francis  Sforza  in  the  15th  centu- 
ry. It  is  open  to  all  nations  and  religions. 
Medicines  are  distributed  gratis  to  the  poor 
upon  receipt  of  physicians'  prescriptions. 
The  building  has  been  kept  in  a  flourish- 
ing state  through  the  liberality  of  Fran- 
cis Sforza,  his  duchess  Bianca  Maria,  and 
other  inhabitants.  It  will  accommodate 
2500  persons,  and  the  number  of  patients 
admitted  annually  is  22,000.  The  system 
is  very  perfect,  as  much  so  as  in  Paris. 
Sisters  of  Charity  attend  upon  the  sick ; 
the  name,  disease,  and  physician's  direc- 
tions are  recorded  over  the  head  of  each 
patient.  The  building  is  kept  clean,  well 
ventilated,  and  free  from  any  thing  that 
is  disagreeable. 

The  Museo  Civico  (open  on  Tuesdays, 
Wednesdays,  and  Saturdays  from  11  to  3, 
50  c.  ;  on  Thursdays  free)  contains  the 
finest  collection  of  reptiles  in  Europe.  Its 
collections  are  in  Natural  History.  Etlmoij- 
raphy,  Paleontology  (fossils),  and  Zoology. 

Private  Palaces. — Some  of  these  are  very 
beautiful.  Among  them  are  the  Serbel- 
loni,  Vitti,  Marino,  and  Visconti  palaces  ; 
also  one  of  great  beauty,  the  Palazzo  Uel- . 
gioioso,  formerly  the  villa  of  Napoleon, 
afterward  of  Eugene  Beauharnais. 

The  Piazza  de  Mercanti  contains  some 
remains  of  old  Milan  ;  the  large  square 
building  in  the  centre  was  the  Palazzo  della 
liai/ioiie,  where  assembled,  in  earlier  times, 
the  magistrates  of  the  commonwealth  of 
Milan,  and  where,  at  a  later  date,  the  ducal 
786 


courts  of  justice  sat.  Other  buildings  of  in- 
terest surround  this  piazza ;  one  of  the  most 
curious  is  the  Loggia  degli  Ossi ;  from  the 
balcony  in  front,  the  podesta  asked  the  as- 
sent of  the  citizens  to  the  acts  of  govern- 
ment, and  the  sentences  of  criminals  were 
here  proclaimed.  The  coats  of  arms  of  the 
six  quarters  of  the  city,  and  of  the  Viscontis- 
Sforzaa,  decorate  the  front.  On  the  oppo- 
eite  side  of  the  piazza  is  located  the  ancient 
college.  By  the  side  of  the  Loggia  is  the 
ancient  Sculo  Palatina,  in  front  of  which 
are  statues  of  St.  Angustin  and  Ausonius. 
This  is  the  business  portion  of  the  city,  and 
some  of  the  principal  streets  are  in  this  vi- 
cinity, containing  the  best  shops  in  Milan. 

Some  of  the  principal  buildings  in  Milan 
are  the  government  and  judicial  palaces. 
City  Hall,  Mint,  Custom-house,  Treasury, 
etc.  It  also  has  four  asylums,  several 
hospitals,  two  work-houses,  a  government 
loan  bank,  two  lyceums,  a  high  female 
school,  six  gymnasiums,  deaf  and  dumb 
school,  colleges  of  medicine,  a  military  geo- 
graphical institute,  many  primary  schools, 
and  various  societies  of  literature,  agricul- 
ture, etc. 

There  are  two  Public  Gardens.  The 
old  one  has  been  much  improved,  and  the 
new  Giardino  Pubblico  contains  a  small 
zoological  garden,  a  statue  of  Carlo  Por- 
to, a  Milanese  poet,  a  figure  of  Italy,  by 
Putti/tati. 

Bankers.  —  The  American  bankers  are 
Messrs.  Ulric  fr  Co.,  21  Via  Bigli,  where 
good  rates  of  exchange  may  also  be  ob- 
tained. 

Druggist. — A  very  good  drug  store  is  G. 
Talini's,  18  Via  Manzoni.  English  pre- 
scriptions prepared,  patent  medicines,  etc. 

Marble  Statues,  etc. — A  beautiful  collec- 
tion of  works  of  art  in  marble,  agate,  ala- 
baster, mosaic,  etc.,  may  be  seen  at  Bac- 
cerini  $  Broccas,  77  Galleria  Vittorio  Em- 
manuele.  The  safe  packing  to  foreign 
countries  is  guaranteed. 

'  '< i 'fi -restaurants. — \tBiffi  Gnocchfs  and 
Cora's.  Good  beer  at  10  Piazza  Beccaria. 

Milan  to  Lake  Como.  See  Koute  No. 
202. 

Milan  to  Paris.  Time,  25  h.  55  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  117  frs.  15  c. 

Milan  toArona.  Time,  2  h.  20  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  6  frs.  35  c. ;  second  class,  5  frs. 
35  c. 

Milan  to  Plcdsance.     Time,  1  h.  37  m. ; 


ROUTES.  [ITALY.] 

fare,  first-class,  7  frs.  80  c. ;  second  class, 
5  frs.  50  c. 

Milan  to  Genoa.  Time,  5  hours ;  fare, 
first  class.  17  frs.  30  c. ;  second  class,  12  frs. 
10  c. 

Mi/an  to  Venice.  Time,  7  hours  ;  fare, 
first  class,  31  frs.  80  c. ;  second  elu.-s. 
•2-2  frs.  80  c. 

Milan  to  Lucerne,  via  St.  Gothard  Tunnel 
(shortest  route  to  Paris  or  London),  in  10  h. ; 
36  frs.  65  c. ;  284  km. ;  two  express  trains 
daily  (sleeping-car,  7  50  P.M.).  Sec  Route 
34,  Vol.  III.,  and  Routes  202  and  203,  Vol. 
II.  Magnificent  scenery. 

At  GaUarate,  a  town  of  considerable  im- 
portance, the  road  branches  off  to  Varese. 

Varcse  contains  about  1Q,000  inhabit- 
ants, and,  on  account  of  the  beauty  of  its 
surroundings,  many  wealthy  Milanese  have 
villas  in  the  town  and  vicinity.  Hotel, 
Varese. 

The  principal  church  is  St.  Vittore,  which 
contains  some  fine  frescoes ;  also  a  Magda- 
lene by  Marazzone,  and  a  St.  George  by 
Crcspi.  The  excursions  are  numerous, 
among  which  is  that  to  the  celebrated  sanc- 
tuary of  La  Madonna  del  Monte,  or  Sacro 
Monte  di- Varese,  five  miles  distant. 
Diligences  to  Como  and  Laveno. 


COMO. 


ROUTE  No.  201. 

Verona  to  Innsbruck,  via  Trient,  Bolzen, 
and  the  Brenner  Pass.  Time  (express), 
9  h.  24  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  33  frs.  60  c. ; 
second  class,  25  fr.  20  c. 

For  description  of  this  route,  see  "Passes 
into  Italy,"  and  Index.  The  Route  may 
be  varied  by  taking  a  carriage  at  Trient 
to  Riva,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Garda ;  two 
horses,  35  frs. ;  one  horse,  18  fr. ;  thence 
by  steamer  to  Peschiera,  in  4  h.  30  m. ;  and 
one  hour  by  rail  to  Verona. 


ROUTE  No.  202. 

Milan  to  Como  and  Lake  Como.     Time 

to  Como,  1  h.  40  m. ;  fare,  first-class,  5  frs. 

45  c.     Milan  to  Lucerne,  see  Milan,  and 


{outes   202,   203,    Vol.    II.,   and   34,  VoL 
II. 

.1/V>»2<7,  containing  16,000  inhabitants, 
rlotels,  Palazzo  Reale  and  del  Castello. 
The  chief  interest  of  this  town  is  centred 
:n  its  celebrated  Cathedral,  the  repository 
of  the  famous  "  Iron  Crown."  It  is  de- 

ited  in  a  richly  decorated  cross  over 
;he  altar,  and  consists  of  a  band  of  gold 
.ined  with  a  thin  strip  of  iron,  said  to  have 
jeen  made  from  a  nail  of  the  true  cross, 
brought  from  Palestine  by  the  Empress 
Helena  !  The  gold  band  is  adorned  with 
numerous  precious  stones.  With  it  were 
crowned  thirty-four  Lombard  kings,  the 
Emperor  Charles  V.,  Napoleon  I.  in  1805, 
the  Emperor  of  Austria,  Ferdinand  I.,  in 
1838. 

It  was  removed  by  the  Austrians  dur- 
ing the  Italian  war  in  1859,  but  returned 
after  the  peace  of  1866.  The  Treasury 
contains  numerous  valuable  relics  ;  a  gold- 
en hen  with  seven  chickens,  representing 
the  seven  provinces  of  Lombardy ;  the 
cross  placed  on  the  breasts  of  the  Lom- 
bard kings  at  the  time  of  their  corona- 
tion ;  two  silver  loaves,  presented  by 
Napoleon  at  the  time  of  his  coronation, 
etc. 

The  Rroletto,  or  Town-hall,  which  dates 
from  the  13th  century,  is  part  of  the  old 
palace  of  the  Lombard  kings. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Monza  is  a  Roj/al 
Summer  Palace,  surrounded  by  a  beautiful 
park. 

The  line  passes  through  several  tunnels 
and  the  town  of  Seregno,  containing  5200 
inhabitants,  and  arrives  at  Camerlattf, 
thence  by  omnibus  to  Como,  distance  two 
miles. 

Como. — Hotels :  Volta  and  D'ltalie.  Pop- 
ulation, 21,000.  Como  was  formerly  a 
town  of  some  importance.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  hills,  and  defended  by 
double  walls.  It  has  four  gates,  one  of 
which,  leading  to  Milan,  is  a  grand  speci- 
men of  architecture.  It  is  quite  celebrated 
for  its  industry  :md  trade.  In  ancient 
times  it  was  an  extensive  manufacturing 
place,  the  number  of  looms  exceeding  those 
of  Lyons.  The  scenery  around  Como  is 
perfectly  fascinating,  so  much  so  that  it  is 
ini]i<xsilile  to  study,  the  desire  being  so 
great  to  look  out  constantly  upon  its  pict- 
uresque loveliness.  The  public  buildings 
are  quite  numerous ;  there  are  12  church- 
787 


COMO. 


[ITALY.] 


COMO. 


es,  a  lyceum  erected  by  the  French,  a  li- 
brary of  15,000  volumes,  two  female  semi- 
naries, an  ecclesiastical  college,  a  hospital, 
orphan  asj'lum,  cabinet  of  natural  history, 
botanic  gardens,  etc.  A  handsome  casino 
has  been  added  within  a  few  years.  Its 
manufactures  are  silks,  woolen  cloths,  cot- 
ton yarn,  and  soap.  The  fine  climate  of 
Como  entices  many  visitors.  Near  the  city 
is  the  Villa  d'Este,  now  a  hotel,  formerly 
the  residence  of  Queen  Caroline  of  En- 
gland. 

The  Duomo  is  an  imposing  building,  con- 
structed of  white  marble,  of  various  styles 
of  architecture.  It  contains  some  good 
paintings,  and  many  of  the  chapels  and  al- 
tars are  exceedingly  beautiful.  In  front 
of  this  cathedral  are  statues  of  the  elder 
and  younger  Pliny,  erected  in  1498.  Some 
authors  say  both  were  born  here,  and  some 
that  the  elder  was  born  at  Verona ;  but  all 
agree  that  it  is  the  birthplace  of  the  young- 
er. The  elder  was  born  A.D.  23,  and  was 
killed  at  the  eruption  of  Vesuvius  in  79. 
The  younger  was  born  A.D.  62,  and  died 
in  115.  The  sculptures  on  the  exterior  of 
the  Duomo.  representing  the  Flight  into 
Egypt  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  are 
of  exquisite  workmanship. 

The  Lake  of  Como,  so  beautifully  de- 
scribed by  Rogers,  is  situated  in  the  midst 
of  hills,  surrounded  by  ancient  and  pictur- 
esque ruins.  The  views  from  every  por- 
tion of  this  lovely  sheet  of  water  constant- 
ly charm  the  ej-e.  Its  .borders  are  covered 
with  villas,  belonging  to  people  of  wealth 
and  artists.  Bulwer  has  made  the  n:une 
of  Lake  Como  familiar  to  every  one  by  his 
elaborate  description  of  it  in  the  play  of 
the  Lady  of  Lyons.  The  Count  describes  to 
Pauline  his  palace  in  most  elaborate  lan- 
guage :  "A  deep  vale,  shut  out  by  Alpine 
hills  from  the  rude  world,  near  a  clear  lake, 
margined  by  fruits  of  gold  and  whispering 
myrtles  ;  glassing  softest  skies,  cloudless, 
save  with  rare  and  roseate  shadows :" 
there,  "A  palace  lifting  to  eternal  heaven 
its  marbled  walls  from  out  a  glossy  bower 
of  coolest  foliage  musical  with  birds."  So 
we  might  follow  up  the  description  ;  but 
Nature  will  prove  more  lovely  and  attract- 
ive, and  those  who  visit  this  charming  spot 
will  undoubtedly  be  impressed  with  all  the 
beauties  of  scenery  which  have  inspired  so 
many  authors. 

Should  the  tourist  have  a  few  days  or. 
788 


weeks  to  spare,  we  would  most  decidedly 
say,  spend  them  at  Lake  Como.  Here 
you  have  seclusion  and  sublimity;  luxuri- 
ant woods  and  dazzling  waters  ;  smiling 
white  villas,  surrounded  by  perfumed  cit- 
ron groves  and  orange-trees  ;  the  horizon 
on  one  side  dotted  with  the  loftiest  Alpine 
peaks,  while  on  the  other  it  is  blended  with 
Italia's  richest  plains;  and  when  the  dis- 
tant landscapes  are  hidden  from  the  view, 
and  we  near  approach  the  shores  of  this 
dazzling  lake,  the  lesser  hills,  clothed  to 
their  summits  in  richest  vegetation,  fill  up 
the  scene  : 

u  Sublime,  but  npither  bleak  nor  bare 
Nor  misty  are  the  mountains  there — 
Softly  sublime — profusely  fair; 
Up  to  their  summits  clothed  in  green, 
And  fruitful  as  the  vales  between. 

They  lightly  rise, 

And  scale  the  skies, 
And  groves  and  gardens  still  abound  ; 

For  where  no  shoot 

C'ould  else  take  root, 

The  peaks  are  shelved  and  terraced  round. 
Karthward  appear  in  mingled  growth 
The  mulberry  and  maize;  above 
The  trellised  vine  extends  to  both 
The  leaf}'  shade  they  love. 
Looks  out  the  white-walled  cottage  here, 
The  lowly  chapel  rises  near; 
Far  down  the  foot  must  roam  to  reach 
The  lovely  lake  and  bending  beach; 
While  chestnut  green  and  olive  gray 
Checker  the  steep  and  winding  way." 

The  Lake  of  Como  is  thirty-five  milei 
long,  and  averages  two  and  a  half  broad. 
There  are  two  lines  of  steamers  which  run 
the  whole  length  of  the  lake,  and  the  op- 
position between  them  was  so  great  in  1873 
that  they  almost  paid  the  tourist  to  patron- 
ize them.  The  fare  is  a  mere  trifle,  but, 
changing  as  it  does,  it  is  impossible  to  give 
it  with  exactness.  Travelers  who  have 
little  time  to  spare  on  Lake  Como  can 
leave  Milan  at  10.50  A.M.,  go  to  Cadenab- 
bia  and  spend  the  night  at  this  charm- 
ing spot ;  thence  by  steamer  to  Menaggio ; 
thence  by  rail  in  forty-five  minutes,  to  Por- 
lezza,  in  time  for  the  1.15  P.M.  steamer  for 
Lvffrmo,  making  the  ascent  of  Monte  S. 
Salvatore. 

From  Lugano,  diligence  in  2  h.  30  m.  to 
Luino ;  steamer  from  Luino  to  the  Borro- 
mean  Islands ;  thence  to  Arona  in  1  hour, 
ami  Arona  to  Milan  in  2  h.  25  m. 

Steamers  leave  Como  for  Colico  five 
times  each  day.  Time,  3  h.  T>0  m.  ;  fare, 
4  fr.  Fare  to  Bellaggio,  2  fr.  55  c. 


I  TA  L  I  A 


Harper' 


LAK  ES 


COMO. 


[ITALY.] 


BELLAGGIO. 


Naturally  tliere  are  man}'  lovely  spots 
on  the  Italian  lakes  which  might  be  recom- 
mended ;  hut  if  travelers  wish  to  spend 
some  weeks  instead  of  days  in  the  midst  of 
luxuriant  gardens,  flowers,  and  vineyards, 
with  the  loveliest  views,  we  would  say  em- 
phatically, Bettaggio,  Cadenabbiu ,  i\nd  Villa 
d'Efte,  on  Lake  Como ;  Lugano,  on  Lake 
Lugano ;  and  at  Stresa  and  Pallanza,  on 
Lake  Maggiore. 

On  the  western  bank,  starting  from 
Como,  the  Villa  Raimondi  is  passed. 

Farther  on  the  western  side  is  Villa 
d'Este,  formerly  the  residence  of  Queen 
Caroline,  wife  of  George  IV.  of  England. 


On  the  opposite  shore  is  Villa  Trubetzkoi, 
the  property  of  a  Russian  prince  of  that 
name. 

Next  on  the  eastern  side  is  Villa  Tagll- 
oni,  formerly  the  property  of  the  celebrated 
danseusc ;  now  belonging  to  her  son-in- 
law,  Prince  Trubetzkoi. 

Passing  numerous  places  of  more  or  less 
importance,  Cadenubbia  is  reached. 

Close  to  the  landing  is  the  Villa  C«rlotta, 
the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Sachsen-Mei- 
ningcn,  widower  of  the  Princess  Charlotte 
of  Prussia.  The  marble  saloon  is  orna- 
mented with  Thorwaldsen's  Triumph  of 
Alexander,  which  cost  $80,000 ;  it  con- 
tains a  Cupid,  Venus,  Paris,  Magdalene, 
Psyche,  and  Palamedes — all  by  Canova.  In 
tho  billiard-room  there  is  a  chimney-piece 
with  a  frieze  by  Thorwaldsen.  There  are 
several  fine  modern  pictures. 

The  villa  is  freely  shown  to  visitors  ;  a 
small  fee  is  expected. 

A  walk  should  be  taken  to  the  church 
of  Madonna  de  S.  Martina,  on  a  height 
above  the  town— one  and  a  half  hours  ; 
the  plateau  commands  a  beautiful  view. 

There  is  also  a  long  excursion  to  Mnnti 
Crocion\  which  commands  a  magnificent 
view  of  Mt.  Blanc,  Mt.  Rosa,  and  the  Ber- 
nese Alps,  with  all  the  Italian  lakes.  Time 
occupied,  12  hours  ;  guide,  5  fr. 

Immediately  opposite  Cadenabbia  is  the 


town  of  Bellaggio;  row-boat,  3  frs. ;  steam- 
er crosses  several  times  each  day. 


BeUagio. — Hotel,  Grand  Hotel  Bellagio, 
one  of  the  finest  houses  in  Europe,contain- 
ing  230  rooms  and  salons,  commanding  a 
full  view  of  all  three  lakes,  and  environed 
by  a  splendid  park  and  garden.  Hot,  cold, 
and  shower  baths ;  carriages  and  boats  be- 
longing to  the  establishment ;  English  di- 
vine service ;  and  a  most  superbly  laid  out 
ground-floor  and  terrace.  M.  Breitschmid, 
the  manager,  has  long  been  known  for  his 
efficiency  and  courtesy. 

Visit  the  Villa  Mehi  and  Vitta  Giuli'i. 
In  the  Villa  Melzi  are  numerous  works  by 
Canova.  See  the  busts  in  the  vestibule. 
Notice  in  the  saloon  dedicated  to  Napoleon 
I.  a  splendid  portrait  of  the  emperor  in  the 
costume  of  President  of  the  Italian  Repub- 
lic. Examine  the  chapel  in  the  garden.  A 
fee  should  be  given  to  the  custodian  as 
well  as  to  the  gardener. 

Monte  S.  Primo  is  often  ascended  from 
Bellaggio ;  the  view  is  most  extended 
and  lovely.  The  base  can  be  reached  on 
horseback ;  the  ascent  will  occupy  five 
hours. 

There  are  numerous  other  towns  on  the 
way  to  Colico:  Verenna,  Alberyo  Reale,  on 
the  eastern  side,  near  which  is  the  Fiume 
Latle,  a  fall  of  nearly  one  thousand  feet 
high  ;  but  during  the  summer,  or  during 
very  dry  weather,  there  is  very  little  wa- 
ter. There  are  marble  quarries  here. 

Nearly  opposite  is  the  town  of  M»n(iri- 
gio.  Hotels,  Corcnm  and  Menaggio.  Ruil  to 
Porlezza  on  Lake  Lugano;  see  R.  7-t.Vol.  III. 

Jtezzonicu,  on  the  same  side.  There  are 
some  fine  ruins  here  of  the  13th  century. 

On  the  eastern  side,  Sellano,  with  exten- 
sive iron-works.  Above  this,  Dtrrio;  then 
789 


CHIAVENNA. 


[ITALY.] 


ISOLA  BELLA. 


Colico,  whence  diligences  are  taken  to  cross 
the  Splligen  Pass ;  see  Route  47,  Switzer- 
land, vol.  iii.  Also  across  the  Bernina  Pass : 
see  Switzerland,  Route  54.  To  St.  Moritz 
and  the  Engadine,  see  Route  56,  Switzer- 
land, vol.  iii. 

Colico  (Hotel  Piazza  Garibaldi),  a  vil- 
lage situated  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Legnone. 

Chiavenna  (Hotel  Conradi)  was  once  a 
flourishing  town  in  possession  of  the  Dukes 
of  Milan,  and  the  ruins  of  former  resi- 
dences and  palaces  of  the  nobles  are  still 
to  be  seen.  The  Church  of  San  Lorenzo, 
the  Baptistery,  and  the  charnel-houses,  in 
which  skulls  and  bones  are  curiously  ar- 
ranged, may  be  visited  by  travelers.  About 
four  miles  from  Chiavenna  is  the  Fall  of 
Gardona,  which  is  worth  a  visit.  The  road 
from  Chiavenna  to  the  Lake  of  Riva  is 
rather  disagreeable,  and  the  scenery  is 
very  uninteresting.  Riva  is  situated  at 
the  north  extremity  of  the  lake. 

Campo  Dolcino  is  but  a  miserable  vil- 
lage, consisting  of  a  few  detached  groups 
of  houses.  The  Lira  valley,  through  which 
the  road  now  passes,  presents  a  scene  of 
desolation,  occasionally  modified  by  chest- 
nut-trees, which  hide,  in  a  measure,  the  bar- 
renness of  the  rocks  which  surround  them. ,' 

For  the  Spliigen  Pass,  Coire,  and  to  Zu- 
rich, see  Route  47,  Sicitzerland,  vol.  iii. 

From  Cadenabbia  to  Lugano,  in  Switz- 
erland, and  Lake  Maggiore,  see  Route  34. 
There  is  a  new  road,  completed  in  1873, 
Dassin<j  Porlezza. 


ROUTE  No.  203. 

Lake  Como  to  Lake  Maggiore,  via  Lake 
Lugano.  There  is  a  good  new  road  from 
Cadenabbia  to  Lugano. 

Diligences  from  Camerlata  to  Lugano  in 
3  h.  30  in. 

Como  to  Lugano,  by  rail,  43  in.  ;  3  frs. 
20  c. ;  30  km. ; — to  Bellinzona,  by  rail,  1  h. 
44  m. ;  7  frs.  90  c. ;  60  km. ,— to  Lucerne, 
via  St.  Gothard,  by  rail,  7  h.  50  m. ;  30  frs. 
65  c.  (express) ;  23C  km.  (see  Route  34, 
Vol.  III.). 

A  large  portion  of  this  route,  being  in 
Swiss  territory,  will  be  found  described  in 
Route  No.  34,  Vol.  III.,  Switzerland.  See 
map  of  Italian  lakes. 

Luyano  is  most  charmingly  situated  on 
the  borders  of  the  lake  of  the  same  name. 
Its  population  amounts  to  nearly  6000,  all 
790 


of  whom  speak  the  Italian  language.  Ho- 
tels :  Jii'nu  Xf-jiHir  and  Da  Pare.  Lugano 
divides  with  Bellinzona  and  Locarno  the 
honor  of  being  the  seat  Of  government  of 
tin'  ran  ton  of  Tessin.  The  beautiful  coun- 
try surrounding  Lugano,  and  its  healthy 
climate,  offer  great  inducements  to  the 
traveler  to  make  a  lengthened  stay.  The 
Villa  Tanzina,  live  miles  south  of  the  town, 
contains  an  elegant  little  temple,  inclosing 
a  bust  of  "  the  Father  of  his  Country." 
The  owner  of  this  villa  made  a  large  for- 
tune in  the  United  States. 

Fail  not  to  make  an  excursion  to  the 
little  chapel  on  the  summit  of  Monte  S.  Sal- 
t-adore before  leaving  Lugano.  It  is  al- 
most surrounded  by  the  winding  of  the 
lake,  and  the  glorious  views  from  its  sum- 
mit are  the  choicest  pictures  in  Italy. 

Lugano  to  Bellinzona,  rail,  61  m. ;  4  frs. 
70  c. ;  30  km. ;— to  Lucerne  (St.  Gothard 
Tunnel),  7  h.  16  m. ;  27  frs.  45  c. ;  206  km. 
See  Route  34,  Vol.  III. 

Lugano  to  Luino,  by  diligence  daily,  in 
2£  h. ;  fare,  3  frs.  60  c. ;  two-horse  carriage, 
20  frs. 

Steamers  run  from  Luino  (Hotel  du 
Simplori).  The  diligences,  taking  dif- 
ferent directions,  stop  here  for  passen- 
gers. The  Borromean  Islands  are  the  prin- 
cipal objects  of  attraction,  and  comprise 
Isola  Bella,  Isola  Superiore,  Isola  Mddie, 
and  Isola  S.  Giovanni.  The  steamer  touch- 
es at  Isola  Bella,  the  most  lovely  of  the 
group  ;  it  is  the  property  of  the  Count  Bor- 
roineo,  who  resides  here  a  part  of  every 
year  in  his  magnificent  pulace.  An  ancef- 
tor  of  the  present  count,  Vitalio  Borromeo, 
in  1690,  built  the  present  palace,  and  con- 
verted a  naked  rock  into  the  present  par- 
adise. It  certainly  looks  like  a  fairy  cre- 
ation. The  garden  is  elevated  100  feet 
above  the  lake  by  a  series  of  terraces,  ten 
in  number.  These  terraces  are  adorned 
with  statues,  obelisks,  trees,  and  vases. 
Here,  in  sight  of  the  Alpine  snows,  bloom 
all  the  tropical  flowers  and  plants  ;  the  or- 
ange, the  lemon,  the  pomegranate,  and  the 
cactus,  all  thrive  equally  well.  Of  course 
the  terraces  are  covered  over  in  winter  and 
warmed  by  stoves,  but  in  summer  the  cre- 
ation is  most  enchanting.  The  camphor 
and  laurel  tree  flourish  here  in  perfection  ; 
the  very  air  is  fragrant  with  orange-flowers 
and  rose-buds,  and  the  clear  lake  is  "  mar- 
gined by  fruits  of  gold  and  whispering 


PALLAXZA. 


[ITALY.] 


NOVARA. 


myrtles."  Fail  not  to  visit  the  palace ;  it 
ie  freely  shown  to  strangers.  A  fee  of  50 
centimes  to  the  custodian,  also  to  the  gar- 
dener, is  expected  from  each  person.  There 
is  a  hotel  adjoining  the  chateau. 

Opposite  these  islands  is  situated  I'al- 
Innz-i,  the  principal  town  in  the  district. 
For  further  description,  see  Route  34,  Lti- 
ccnif  tn  ( 'adenabbia.  Switzerland,  Vol.  III., 
page  HOG. 

J:,irfiio  is  situated  on  the  same  side  of 
the  Like,  between  Pallanza  and  Stresa. 
iMake  the  ascent  of  Monte  Monterone,  which 
stands  between  Lake  Maggiore  and  Lake 
Orta.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  not 
surpassed  even  by  that  from  the  Rigi. 
Donkey  to  make  the  ascent,  4  fr. 

Directly  opposite  the  islands  is  .SVrewi. 

Then  Btlgirate,  beautifully  situated  in 
one  of  the  most  charming  spots  on  the 
lake,  offering  to  English  and  Americans  a 
most  delightful  stay. 

Steamers  pass  up  and  down  the  lake 
several  times  each  day,  stopping  at  Canob- 
bio,  Cannero.  Intra.  and  Laveno,  where  dili- 
gences leave  daily  for  Verese. 

Trains  leave  Arona  several  times  each 
day  for  Milan,  and  diligences  daily  from 
Magadino  across  the  St.  Gothard  Pass  to 
Zurich  ;  see  Route  34,  Switzerland,  vol.  iii. 
Also  by  the  Bernardino  Pass  to  Coire ;  see 
Route  57,  Switzerland,  vol.  iii. 

From  Stresa  an  excursion  should  be 
made  to  Orta  and  Varello,  returning  to 
Arona:  this  will  occupy  three  days,  and 
will  well  repay  the  tourist.  The  distance 
to  Orta  is  seven  hours,  Orta  to  Varello  five 
hours,  and  Varello  to  Arona  six  hours. 

Varello  (Hotel  Italia)  is  the  centre  of 
numerous  excursions,  chief  among  which 
is  that  to  Sacro  Monte,  a  little  over  one 
hour's  walk  over  a  path  finely  shaded  with 
lovely  trees.  This  place  is  the  object  of 
many  pilgrimages  ;  it  consists  of  a  church, 
fountains,  and  forty-six  chapels,  containing 
representations  in  the  life  of  the  Saviour. 
It  was  founded  by  a  Milanese  nobleman, 
witli  the  sanction  of  Innocent  VIII.,  and 
is  greatly  revered  by  Italians.  The  whole 
is  buried  among  beautiful  trees. 

Omnibuses  twice  a  day  from  Varello  to 
Novanu 

For  description  of  Novara,  sec  Route 
No.  201. 


with  the  sanction  of  Innocent  VIII..  and 

is  greatly  revered  by  Italians.  The  whole 
is  buried  among  beautiful  trees. 

Omnibuses  twice  a  day  from  Varello  to 
Novara. 

For  description  of  Novara,  see  Route 
No.  204. 


ROUTE  No.  204. 

.Milan  /•>  Turin,  ria  Xovura.  Time,  3h. 
3.")  in. :  fare,  first  class,  18  fr.  70  c. ;  second 
class,  11  fr.  95  c.  (To  obtain  a  good  view 
of  the  Alps,  take  seats  on  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  carriages.) 

Forty  minutes  from  Milan  the  station 
Magenta  is  reached,  near  which  a  monu- 
ment was  erected  in  1862  to  Napoleon  III., 
in  memory  of  the  victory  gained  by  the 
French  and  Italians  over  the  Anstrians, 
June  4,  1859,  causing  the  latter  to  evacu- 
ate Lombardy.  Marshal  MacMabon,  Pres- 
ident of  the  French  Republic,  received 
from  Napoleon  the  title  of  Duke  of  Magen- 
ta for  his  distinguished  services  on  the  field 
of  battle.  A  small  chapel  has  been  erect- 
ed on  the  field,  near  which  is  a  charnel- 
house  for  the  remains  of  the  fallen. 

Novara. — Hotels,  Albergo  d Italia  and 
Rail  Restaurant.  Population,  30,100.  No- 
vara is  situated  upon  rising  ground  above 
the  plain  of  Terdoppia,  and  was  formerly 
surrounded  by  fortifications  which  had  wit- 
nessed many  an  attack,  but  they  have  now 
mostly  passed  away.  Monte  Rosa  is  seen 
to  great  advantage  from  this  point;  the 
plain  around  is  highly  cultivated,  but,  ow- 
ing to  the  marshy  soil,  the  neighborhood  is 
unhealthy. 

It  was  to  the  south  of  this  town,  almost 
in  its  suburbs,  that  occurred  on  the  23d 
of  March.  1*49,  the  sanguinary  action  be- 
tween the  Atistrians  and  Piedmontese, 
which  terminated  in  the  defeat  of  the  lat- 
ter, and  the  abdication  of  the  brave  and 
chivalrous  Carlo  Alberto.  That  unfortu- 
nate sovereign,  pressed  by  the  democratic 
partv  at  Turin,  denounced  the  armistice 
791 


NOVARA. 


[ITALY.] 


TURIN. 


into  which  he  had  entered  in  August  of 
the  preceding  j'ear,  after  his  unsuccessful 
campaign  of  the  Adige  and  the  Mincio,  and 
prepared  to  invade  the  Austrian  territory 
by  crossing  the  Ticino  on  the  21st  of  March. 
On -the  same  day  the  veteran  Itadctsky  in- 
vaded the  Piedmontese  territory  by  cross- 
ing the  same  river  at  Pavia  with  a  well- 
equipped  army  of  60,000  men  in  four  di- 
visions. Without  losing  a  moment,  his 
advanced  guard  was  put  into  motion  in 
the  direction  of  the  head-quarters  of  the 
Piedmontese  army,  then  lying  between 
Novara  and  Trecate.  After  a  hard-fought 
action  at  Montara  on  the  21st,  in  which 
the  Piedmontese  were  worsted,  the  Austri- 
ans  advanced  upon  Novara,  where  both 
armies  were  engaged  on  the  22d — the  Aus- 
trians  under  Kadetsky,  the  Piedmontese 
commanded  by  the  Polish  general  Cher- 
worowski,  under  the  king  in  person.  The 
site  of  the  battle  is  a  little  south  of  the 
town,  in  the  space  separating  the  Agogna 
and  Terdoppia  streams.  The  heat  of  the 
action  was  between  Olengo  and  the  chap- 
el of  La  Bicocca,  about  one  mile  south  of 
Novara,  on  the  road  to  Mortara.  The 
Piedmontese  performed  prodigies  of  valor, 
led  on  by  Carlo  Alberto  and  his  sons,  the 
Dukes  of  Savoy  (the  present  king)  and 
Genoa.  The  conflict  lasted  during  the 
whole  day,  and  at  its  close  the  Piedmont- 
ese retired  through  the  town,  committing 
some  acts  of  pillage  and  disorder.  On  the 
26th  of  March  an  armistice  was  signed,  in 
which  Itadetsky  showed  much  generosity 
as  a  victor,  the  whole  campaign,  from  the 
crossing  of  the  Po  at  Pavia,  having  only 
lasted  live  days. 

The  principal  buildings  of  Novara  arc 
the  Cathedral,  the  Dominican  church,  the 
church  of  St.  Gaudenzio,  etc. 

The  Duomo  is  a  fine  edifice,  although 
both  exterior  ^nd  interior  have  been  great- 
ly damaged.  The  high-altar  is  a  splendid 
piece  of  workmanship.  The  pavement, 
composed  of  black  and  white  mosaic,  was 
laid  in  the  Roman  manner  in  the  ninth 
century.  The  figures  of  birds  in  the  me- 
dallion represent  their  subjects  in  an  inter- 
esting manner,  as  follows :  the  Pelican, 
emblematical  of  the  love  of  our  Saviour ;  the 
Phoenix,  of  the  resurrection;  the  Stork,  of 
filial  piety,  etc.  There  are  many  other 
relics  in  this  Duomo  which  will  interest 
the  traveler.  Church  of  San  Pie/ro  al  Ro- 
792 


sario  is  celebrated  for  being  the  spot  where 
the  sentence  was  passed  upon  Frati  Dol- 
cino  in  1307.  He  and  Margaret,  the  beau- 
tiful nun  whom  he  abducted  from  her  con- 
vent, were  burned  alive  March  23,  1307. 
The  Basilica  of  San  Gaudenzio  was  erected 
to  commemorate  the  name  of  the  patron 
saint  and  first  bishop  of  Novara.  One  of 
the  chapels  contains  a  superior  work  of 
Gaudenzio  Ferrari,  consisting  of  six  apart- 
ments. The  subject  is  the  Nativity,  with 
Madonna  and  Child,  and  saints  with  at- 
tending angel.  A  lofty  bell-tower  is  at- 
tached to  this  church,  which  is  visible  for 
a  long  distance,  and  forms  quite  an  attract- 
ive and  conspicuous  object. 

Novara  has  a  number  of  public  build- 
ings, manjr  convents,  several  hospitals  and 
colleges,  a  theatre,  and  a  government  bank. 
The  manufactures  are  chiefly  silk,  linen 
fabrics,  and  leather.  There  is  a  branch 
line  from  Novara  to  Gozzano  in  1  h.  15  m. 
The  Turin  and  Milan  line  is  here  crossed  by 
that  from  Genoa  to  Arona  and  Lucerne. 

Vercelli  (hotel,  Tre  Re),  an  episcopal 
residence,  containing  28,100  inhabitants. 
But  little  of  importance  is  to  be  seen. 
The  Cathedral  contains  some  pictures  and 
MSS.  The  church  of  San  Cristoforo  pos- 
sesses some  good  paintings  by  Lanini  and 
Ferrari.  In  the  market-place  may  be  seen 
a  statue  of  Cavour. 

Santhia  station.    Branch  line  in  1  hour  to 

Bietta,  a  commercial  town  containing  a 
tine  Cathedral,  eight  miles  from  which  is 
the  celebrated  pilgrimage  church  of  the 
Madonna  d'Oropa. 

ChiVusso  station  is  then  passed  and  Tu- 
rin reached. 


TURIN. 

Hotel,  de  V Europe,  is  one  of  the  finest 
houses  in  Europe,  on  the  Place  Chateau, 
opposite  the  Royal  Palace.  It  has  lately 
been  thoroughly  renovated. 


T    U 


1  Avitl'ca 

2  ,C  Carlo 
3 

* 

0  Corp 

6  Freutcofoo  cK  t 

1  Afcutrc.  di  Dia 

8  Tenyria  fald&re. 


11    Armeria  Keutf 
12 

13    J}orsa-ili  Commercio 
Casa  Canoiir 


Monuments 

15  AU'E.rercito  Stirdo 
16 

17  Balf>o,conte  Cc. 

18  Carlo  Alberto 

19  Emiuiuelf  FiUbxrttt 

20  Ciobfrti 

21  JTanin  JJanifle 

22  PepetGen 

OO  1L-  _7 

£&  si£fiis>a> 

24.  A 

25  .* 


PIA//.A     D'AKMI     iuK 


27  ,//,"///„ 

28  drJ  Hura  .//  C.W, 

29  Mattama  /rinac 

30  tii.Hfi^ijli-ati '. 

31  t/^/^ 

,'5i;  iL-lh-Tor,: 

33  /'dfA/  r/,.//   /. /-, 
Theatres 

^U*  Kt't/iv 

:;:  «•>«//«//. 

:ss  "  •' 


1   N 


vf"-'i ;  "\j.,..«ip 

U?:-:'i^^B 

v:.' 


uul-Uo«U 


[ITALY.] 


TUBIS. 


A  seniv,  n  feeling  that  he  loses  not, 

.utliing  that  informs  him  'tig  a  moment 
Whence  he  may  date  henceforward  and  for- 
ever. 

"To  me  they  seemed  the  barriers  of  a  world, 
Saying  thin  far,  no  further  '.  and  as  o'er 
The  levtl  plain  I  traveled  silently, 
Nearinir  tiiem  more  and  more  day  after  day, 
My  wandering  thoughts  my  only  company, 
And  they  before  me  still,  oft  a*  I  looked 
A  strange  delight,  mingled  with  fear,  came 

o'er  me, 

A  wonder  as  at  thing.-*  I  had  not  heard  of! 
Oft  as  1  looked  1  felt  as  though  it  were 
For  uic  the  first  time." 

Turin     contains     226,307     inhabitants'     The  climate  of  Turin  is  changeable,  and, 
(1881).    It   was  made  a  military  station  at  most  tilnes'  Disagreeable.      A    lovely 
by  Julius  Ciesar  on  the  invasion  of  Gaul,    j  ranSe  of  hills'  called  the  Colllna  di  Tonnti, 
"Turin  is  situated  between  the  Dora  Ri-  i rise  beyond  the  Po  to  the  height  of  1600 


paria  and  the  Po,  just  beyond  the  junction 
of  these  two  rivers;  it  is  of  an  oval  shape, 
four  miles  in  circuit;  it  is  now  an  unforti- 
fied town,  situated  in  a  well-watered  plain, 
richly  cultivated,  approached  by  four  roads 
lined  with  forest  trees.  The  city  makes 
but  little  show  at  a  distance,  in  consequence 
of  being  built  on  a  flat ;  there  are  not  many 
domes  and  towers,  nor  are  they  lofty,  and 
on  looking  down  upon  the  city  from  tlu 


feet ;  many  beautiful  villas,  with  gardens 
attached,  are  situated  upon  the  summit. 
The  architecture  of  the  city  is  attributed 
to  two  celebrated  persons,  Guurini,  em- 
ployed by  Carlo  Emanucle  II.,  and  Juva- 
ra,  by  Vittoria  Amadeo  II. 

The  Duonw. — This  is  the  oldest  of  the 
sacred  buildings  of  Turin,  founded  origin- 
ally about  the  year  602  by  Agilulph,  king  of 
the  Lombards.  It  has  been  much  admired 


surrounding  hills,  the  red  tile  roofs  give  it  i  f°r  lts  appearance ;  the  interior  has  recent- 
a  din _ry  and  unpleasant  appearance;  how-  i  ly  been  decorated  with  frescoes,  among 
ever,  its  clean  street*,  fine  hotels,  and  the  .  which  is  a  copy  of  the  Ccnacola  of  Da  Vin- 
regularity  of  its  formation  cause  it  to  be 
mui-h  admired.  There  is  not  a  mean-look- 


ing house  in  the  city,  and  even  the  resi- 
dences of  the  poorer  classes  are  almost  pal- 


"  Turin  forms  a  perfect  contrast  with  all 
the  cities  we  have  been  accustomed  to  see 
in  Italy;  it  is  new,  fresh,  and  regular,  in- 
stead of  antique  and  in  decay ;  and  the 
buildings  all  alike  are  collectively  magnifi- 
cent, if  not  quite  so  in  detail,  the  material 
being  only  brick  coated  over  in  imitation 
of  stone.  A  profusion  of  running  water 
keeps  the  fine  wide  pavement  clean.  All 
round  the  town,  ancient  trees,  of  luxuriant 
growth,  oppose  their  impenetrable  shade  to 


The  most  remarkable  of  the  few  mon- 
uments in  the  Cathedral  is  that  of  Claude 
Seyssell,  archbishop  of  Turin.  In  the  chap- 
el of  Santo  Sinode  is  preserved  the  wind- 
ing-sheet of  our  Saviour.  This  Cathedral 
was  formerly  one  of  the  wealthiest  church- 
es in  Italy.  p()-;si'<-;ing  as  it  did  immensely 
valuable  treasures  in  the  way  of  vases, 
images,  candlesticks,  etc.  The  greater 
part  of  them,  however,  have  been  sold  to 
pay  for  the  erection  of  the  bridge  across 
the  Po  in  this  city,  and  to  improve  the 
Tuileries  at  Paris,  and  building  the  Rue  de 
Rivoli.  In  the  s'icristy  is  a  statue  of  the 
Virgin  under  a  silver-gilt  canopy.  On 
the  8th  of  September  a  procession  takes 


the  intolerable  heat  of  the  sun.    The  views  !  place  in  honor  of  the  nativity  of  the  Vir- 
of  the  Alps  are  magnificent." 


1  Who  first  beholds  those  everlasting  cloud?. 
Seed-time   and  harvest,  morning,  noon,  nnd 

night, 
Still  where  they  wore,  steadfast,  immovable; 


gin,  also  to  commemorate  the  deliveramv 
of  the  city  from  the  French  ;  the  illumina- 
tions at  the  time  of  these  possessions  are 
very  beautiful. 

The  Chupel  of  Santo  Sindone  is  one  of 

Who  fir-t  behold*  the  Alp?,  that  mighty  chain    the  l>est  efforts  of  Guarini.      In  the  eapi- 
Of  mountains  stretching  on  from  en  ft  to  west,     tals  of  the  columns  the  crown  of  thorns  is 

exquisitely  interwoven  with  the  acanthus 


So  mas-ive,  yet  so  shadowy,  PO  ethereal, 
Aa  to  belong  rather  to  heaven  than  earth, 
Bat  instantly  receives  into  his  soul 


leaves.     The  altar  is  of  black  marble,  aod 
798 


TURIN. 


TURIN. 


the  shrine  which  is  placed  upon  it  is  of 
gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones ;  suspend- 
ed from  cither  side  are  four  silver  lamps, 
presented  by  the  late  queen  ;  the  pave- 
ment is  beautifully  inlaid  with  bronze 
stars.  Monuments  to  four  of  the  most  il- 
lustrious members  of  the  house  of  Savoy 
have  been  placed  around  the  sanctuary 
by  the  king,  Charles  Albert.  Here  also 
is  a  sitting  statue  of  the  queen,  Marie 
Adelaide. 

Church  of  La  Consnlata  is  located  oppo- 
site to  the  handsome  column  of  granite 
upon  which  is  placed  a  statue  of  the  Virgin 
of  the  Consolation  after  the  cessation  of 
the  cholera. 

Church  ofdfl  Corpus  Domini,  designed  by 
Count  Allieri,  is  one  of  the  grandest  and 
richest  in  Turin.  In  this  church  are  three 
paintings  representing  a  miracle  which  oc- 
curred in  1458,  namely,  the  recover}-  of  a 
piece  of  sacramental  plate  which  contained 
the  blessed  wafer.  It  was  stolen  by  a  sol- 
dier during  the  pillage  of  Exilles.  While 
passing  the  church  door,  the  vase  fell  from 
the  back  of  the  ass  which  was  carrying  it 
to  the  ground,  and  it  was  entirely  de- 
stroyed. The  wafer  ascended  into  the  air, 
and,  surrounded  with  rays  of  most  brilliant 
light,  remained  suspended  until  it  was  tak- 
en possession  of  by  the  bishop,  who  came 
out  to  receive  it. 

The  Palazzo  Royal  is  located  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  city,  in  the  Piazza  di  Castcl/o,  a 
large,  elegant  square,  in  the  centre  of 
which  is  the  former  palace  of  the  dukes  of 
Savoy.  The  architecture  of  the  royal  pal- 
ace is  not  particularly  attractive,  but  the 
apartments  are  large  and  richly  adorned. 
There  are  many  paintings  by  artists  of  the 
Flemish  school  and  others,  including  Ti- 
tian, Guercino,  Albani,  and  Murillo.  There 
is  also  a  line  equestrian  statue  of  Amadcus 
I.  The  gardens  attached  to  the  palace  are 
open  daily  to  the  public  from  11  to  3  in 
summer,  and  are  a  fashionable  resort.  The 
gates  which  separate  the  palace  from  the 
Piazza  are  very  magnificent — the  statues  of 
Cantor  and  Pol'ux  were  designed  by  San- 
niorgio.  In  the  private  library  of  the 
king,  which  is  very  extensive,  are  40,000 
printed  volumes  and  200  MSS.,  some  of 
which  are  very  curious. 

Palazzo  Madam't  is  the  ancient  castle 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  Piazza  Castel- 
lo.     It  was  so  called  after  the  mother  of 
794 


Amadeus  II.  Here  the  Senate  sat  until 
1865.  In  front  of  the  palace  stands  a  mon- 
ument to  the  Sardinian  army  :  it  is  of 
white  marble,  and  was  erected  by  the  Mi- 
lanese in  1859. 

A  rmoria  Regii,  adjoining  the  royal  pal- 
ace, is  one  of  the  chief  attractions  of  Turin. 
Open  daily  by  tickets  from  the  secretary 
of  the  Armory,  obtained  from  11  to  3  ;  fee. 
1  fr.  It  has  been  carefully  arranged  by 
Count  Seyssell  d'Aix.  The  contributions 
have  been  very  numerous  from  private  in- 
dividuals and  public  institutions.  There 
are  many  valuable  relics :  among  them  is 
the  cuirass  worn  by  Prince  Eugene  at  the 
battle  of  Turin,  when  the  French  were  de- 
feated ;  full  suit  of  Duke  Emanuele  Fili- 
berto,  worn  at  the  battle  of  St.  Quentin ; 
cuirass  worn  by  Carlo  Emanuele  III.  at 
the  battle  of  Guastalla ;  staff  of  Alfonso  di 
Ferrari ;  two  beautifully  ornamented  suits 
which  belonged  to  Antonio  Martoningo  of 
Brescia;  also  shields,  targets,  helmets,  and 
some  delicate  stiletto;-,  which  were  carried 
by  the  Italian  ladies;  a  crescent  attribu- 
ted to  Benvenuto  Cellini,  and  a  splendid 
illustration  of  the  Labors  of  Hercules.  The 
collection  of  lire-arms  as  specimens  of  art 
will  be  found  interesting. 

Near  the  Piazza  Carignano  is  the  Palaz- 
zo dell'  Accademia  della  Scienze,  contain- 
ing the  Picture-Gallery  and  Museum  of 
Antiquities  and  Natural  History,  open  daily 
from  9  to  4. 

The  Royal  Gallery  of  Paintings  contains 
a  fine  collection:  in  fifteen  rooms  over  500 
paintings;  catalogue,  li  fr.  Among  the 
most  valuable  is  the  Madonna  della  Tenda, 
on  wood,  by  Raphael.  It  is  of  great  beau- 
ty, and  has  been  purchased  by  a  great  num- 
ber of  persons,  the  last  purchaser  having 
given  75,000  fr.  for  it ;  Pharaoh's  daughter 
finding  Moses,  by  Paul  Veronese,  into 
which  painting  he  has  introduced  his  own 
portrait ;  Mary  Magdalene  washing  the 
feet  of  our  Saviour  at  the  table  of  the 
Pharisee;  allegorical  painting  of  the  four 
elements,  Earth,  Air,  Fire,  and  Water; 
Holy  Family,  by  Vandyke.  The  paint- 
ings of  the  Battles,  by  Hugtenbnrgh,  are 
exceedingly  interestin.'. 

Museum  of  Antiquities. — This  collection 
has  acquired  much  importance  by  the  ad- 
dition of  the  Museo  Egi/zo.  There  are 
many  interesting  relics  which  should  be 
carefully  examined.  The  statues,  bronzes, 


TURIN. 


[ITALY.] 


TURIN. 


etc.,  possess  great  merit ;  also  the  Etrus- 
can vases  and  medals,  which  are  very  va- 
ri.iu-  uinl  valuable. 

The  Museum  of  Natural  History  possesses 
ainincralogirul  collection  which  is  very  tine. 
and  will  be  highly  appreciated  by  persons 
who  are  interested  and  familiar  with  such 
specimens.  The  zoological  department  has 
been  much  increased  and  improved  during  , 
the  past  few  years,  under  the  care  of  Pro- 
fessor di  Filippi.  There  is  a  large  collec- 
tion of  birds  from  Piedmont. 

The  Universita,  Reale  is  a  magnificent 
building,  and  possesses  many  relics  and  in- 
scriptions worthy  of  examination.  It  is  a 
flourishing  institution,  employing  60  pro- 
fessors, and  which,  with  the  University  of 
Genoa,  forms  the  two  educational  estab- 
lishments of  the  monarchy.  The  library 
contains  120,000  printed  volumes  and  a 
va.-t  collection  of  MSS.  The  University 
was  founded  in  1405,  and  has  five  faculties. 
consisting  of  theology,  law.  medicine,  sur- 
gery, and  the  arts.  It  is  usually  attended 
by  1200  students. 

"  The  Piazza  di  San  Carlo. — This  is  the 
principal  and  finest  square  in  Turin.  In 
it  is  located  the  statue  of  Emanuele  Fili- 
berto,  presented  to  the  city  by  King  Carlo 
Alberto.  The  subjects  represented  are  the 
Battle  of  St.  Quentin  and  the  Treaty  of 
Chateau  Cambrels.  It  was  designed  in  I 
the  ablest  manner  by  Baron  Marochetti. 

The  Piazza  Sitsini  is  remarkable  on  ac-  , 
count  of  the  line  granite  obelisk  being  lo-  ' 
rated  in  its  centre  to  commemorate  histor- 
ical events.      It  was  erected  in  1853. 

The  Piazza  Vitturln  Eni>i>in<'le,  located  at 
the  extremity  of  the  Contrada  del  Po.  It 
is  vast  in  size,  and  regular,  and  commands 
a  line  view  of  the  Po.  At  the  east  end  is  ! 
the  bridge  which  connects  the  Piazza  with 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  termi- 
nates in  front  of  the  church  of  La  Gran  Ma- 
rt re  di  Dio.  The  bridge  was  erected  by  the 
French  in  1810,  and  completed  by  Vittoria 
Emanuele  II. 

I'i'izz'i  Cavour. — A  magnificent  monu- 
ment was  erected  in  this  place,  and  unveil- 
ed in  presence  of  the  king.  November.  187.">. 
to  Italy's  greatest  .-t  ite>inan.  favour.  On 
a  pedestal  of  red  granite  stands  a  white 
marble  statue  of  Cavour.  with  the  figure  of 
Italy  clasping  his  knees,  and  presenting 
him  with  a  crown  of  laurels.  Around  the 
pedestal  axe  eight  mar!  Ic  figures,  and  on  its 


sides  are  bas-reliefs  of  the  Lion  of  St.  Mark, 
and  Romulus  and  Remus  suckled  by  the 
She- Wolf.  Below  these  is  represented  the 
council  where  it  was  decided  that  Italy 
should  become  the  ally  of  France  and  En- 
gland in  the  war  with  Russia.  On  the  op- 
-ide  is  represented  the  meeting  of 
Napoleon  III.  and  Victor  Emmanuel  after 
the  battle  of  Solferino. 

The  Palaces  of  Turin  are  not  particular- 
ly remarkable.  The  Palazzo  Carignano 
is  associated  with  many  historical  inci- 
dents ;  here  the  Constitution  was  proclaim- 
ed in  1821.  In  front  of  the  palace  stands 
a  marble  statue  of  the  philosopher  Giober- 
ti,  by  Albertoni. 

In  the  Piazza  Carlo  Alberti  is  a  bronze 
monument  of  King  Charles  Albert,  by 
Marochetti.  It  was  cast  in  London. 

The  A  rstnal  contains  a  museum  of  artil- 
lery. Shown  only  to  strangers  by  special 
permission  from  the  war  minister. 

Th  atres. — There  are  many  theatres  in 
Turin  :  the  most  important,  however,  is  the 
Teatro  Uegio,  designed  by  Count  Allieri, 
who  was  a  native  of  Rome,  and  educated 
a  lawyer;  his  preference,  however,  was  for 
architecture,  which  caused  him  to  revere 
the  names  of  those  celebrated  in  the  art, 
such  as  Michael  Angelo,  and  others.  He 
was  employed  by  Carlo  Emanuele  II.  upon 
this  theatre,  which  proved  his  fortune,  as 
he  was  afterward  appointed  court  archi- 
tect, and  became  the  recipient  of  numerous 
favors.  He  w.is  esteemed  the  best  archi- 
tect of  his  time. 

The  Charitab'e  Institutions  of  Turin  arc 
quite  numerous.  The  most  interesting  is 
the  Ritiro  della  Rosina.  originally  founded 
by  Roso  Govona  for  the  benefit  of  those 
persons  who  desire  to  earn  their  own  liv- 
ing. There  is  also  a  Magdalene  Institu- 
tion, founded  by  the  Baroness  Barol. 

Aliove  the  iron  bridge  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Po  is  situated  the  Public  Garden.  It 
contains  a  botanical  garden,  and  is  a  fa- 
vorite promenade  for  the  citizen-. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  river  stands  tht 
handsome  church  of  Gran  Madre  di  D!o, 
built  in  imitation  of  the  Pantheon  at  Home. 
It  was  ereci.'d  in  1*1S.  to  commemorate  the 
return  of  Victor  Emmanuel  I.  The  columns 
are  ct'  solid  granite.  Contiguous  is  the 
'  /la  Reffina,  a  school  for  the  daugh- 
ters of  Italian  officers  who  have  fallen  in 
battle. 

795 


TURIN. 


[ITALY.] 


VERRES. 


The  Campo  Santo  is  situated  on  the  road 
to  Chivasso,  but  contains  few  monuments 
of  note. 

In  Piazzi  Solferino  a  fine  monument 
of  the  Duke  of  Genoa  was  unveiled  by  his 
brother,  the  late  king,  in  June,  1877. 

Carriages,  by  the  course,  1  fr. ;  at  night, 
1  fr.  20  c. ;  per  hour,  1  fr.  50  c. ;  two-horse 
carnages,  2  fr.  per  hour. 

Cafe-Restaurant  della  Meridiana,  one  of 
the  best  in  Turin,  is  in  the  Galleria  Geisser, 
off  the  Via  Roma,  at  No.  18.  French  and 
Italian  cooking. 

At  a  distance  of  about  five  miles  from 
Turin  is  situated  the  magnificent  church 
of  IM  Superga,  erected  according  to  a  vow 
made  by  Victor  Amadous  (Duke  of  Savoy) 
in  honor  of  the  Virgin,  and  as  a  testimony 
of  gratitude  to  the  God  of  Battles  for  hav- 
ing given  him  a  victory  over  the  enemy. 
It  was  on  this  spot  that  he  and  Prince  Eu- 
gene met  to  concert  their  plans  for  the  at- 
tack of  the  French  and  the  deliverance  of 
the  city  in  170G.  The  fine,  stately  appear- 
ance of  this  edifice  is  greatly  increased  by 
its  beautiful  columns  of  different-colored 
marble.  The  altars  are  decorated  with 
fine  sculpture  instead  of  paintings ;  the 
pavement  is  of  variegated  marble,  and  ev- 
ery other  portion  of  the  building  is  equal- 
ly elegant.  From  the  cupola,  into  which 
every  person  should  ascend,  a  glorious 
view  is  obtained  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. This  church  is  the  resting-place  of 
the  Prince  of  Savoy ;  Carlo  Alberto  was 
interred  here  in  1849. 

A  fine  excursion  may  be  made  from  Tu- 
rin to  Nice,  or  vice  versa,  via  the  Col  di 
Tenda,  in  24  or  25  hours ;  by  rail  to  Cuneo 
in  2  h.  30  m.,  fare  9  fr.  60  c. ;  thence  to 
Nice  by  Messageries  in  22  hours ;  through 
fare,  32  fr.  Near  the  town  of  Racconigi 
there  is  a  royal  chateau,  once  a  favorite  re- 
treat of  Carlo  Alberto,  father  of  Victor 
Emmanuel.  At  Cannagnola  there  is  a 
railroad  which  branches  off  to  meet  the 
Nice  and  Genoa  line  at  Savona.  Carmag- 
no'a  was  the  birthplace  of  the  celebrated 
Italian  general  Francisco  Bussone,  orig- 
inally a  swineherd.  He  conquered  the 
greater  part  of  Lombardy,  was  made  com- 
mander-in -chief  of  the  Venetian  army, 
but  was  afterward  beheaded  by  an  order 
from  the  Council  of  Ten.  At  Savig'iano 
there  is  a  branch  railway  to  Saluzzo  and 
Cuneo,  the  terminus  of  the  railway.  This 
7% 


was  formerly  a  fortified  town,  but  was 
dismantled  after  the  battle  of  Marengo. 
For  three  or  four  months  during  winter 
the  pass  is  crossed  with  sledges.  Rail 
from  Turin  to  Genoa  in  4  h.  2  m. ;  fare, 
18  fr.  45  c. 


ROUTE  No.  205. 

Turin  to  A  osta,  via  Ivrea  (P<iss  of  Si. 
Bernard).  Time,  13  hours ;  fare,  14  fr. 
By  railway  to  Ivrea  in  4  hours ;  diligences 
to  Aosta  in  9  hours. 

Chivasso.     See  Route  No.  204. 

Ivrea  (hotel,  Europe)  contains  10,GOO  in- 
habitants. It  is  the  capital  of  the  prov- 
ince of  the  same  name.  It  contains  a  Ca- 
thedral, lately  restored.  It  is  a  place  of 
great  antiquity,  being  the  Eporedia  of  the 
Romans,  and  inhabited  by  that  nation  as 
a  fortress  100  years  B.C.,  in  order  to  com- 
mand the  passes  of  the  Great  and  Little 
St.  Bernard.  Ivrea  is  an  episcopal  see, 
and  is  commanded  by  an  ancient  castle, 
now  a  prison. 

Passing  on  the  right  the  castle  of  Mont- 
alto,  and  the  villages  of  Settimo-Vittorie 
and  Carema, 

Pont  St.  Martin  is  reached.  A  short 
distance  above  is  a  Roman  bridge,  which 
crosses  the  Lysbach ;  there  is  here,  also,  a 
ruined  castle,  which  adds  to  the  natural 
beauties  of  the  landscape.  The  road  as- 
cends through  a  narrow  defile  and  reaches 
Fort  Bard,  standing  on  a  mass  of  rock 
1000  feet  high,  and  completely  command- 
ing the  pass ;  in  1800  the  Austrians  here 
kept  the  French  army  in  check  for  over 
two  weeks  after  its  passage  over  the  St. 
Bernard.  A  field-piece,  however,  was  con- 
veyed to  the  top  of  Monte  Albaredo,  which 
commands  the  fort,  and  a  passage  was 
forced. 

Verres  is  handsomely  situated  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Valley  of  Challant,  Hotel, 
Con  ran  ne. 

The  road  leads  past  the  ruins  of  the  an- 
cient castle  of  St.  Germain  and  through  the 
Roman  rock-hewn  defile  of  Montjovet,  past 


ALESSANDRIA. 


[ITALY.] 


MARENUO. 


the  village  of  the  same  name,  and  enters 
into  the  picturesque  valley  of  Aosta.  l'a->- 
ing  the  bathing  establishments  and  miner- 
al springs  of  /St.  Vincent  (hotel,  Lion  cTOr) 
and  Chiitillon  (Hotel  de  Londrei),  a  rather 
handsome  town  and  the  capital  of  the  dis- 
trict, the  town  of 

A osta  is  reached.     Hotel  du  Mont  Blanc. 

For  description  of  the  town  and  of  the 
Pass  of  St.  Bernard,  see  Route  No.  4,  vol. 
ui.,  Switzerland. 


ROUTE  No.  206. 

Turin  to  Nice,  via  Cuneo  and  the  Col  di 
Tendo.  For  description  of  the  Route,  see 
"  Excursion  from  Turin,"  Route  No.  204. 


ROUTE  No.  207. 

Arona  to  Genoa,  via  Alessandria.  Time, 
5  hours ;  fare,  first  class,  19  fr.  65  c.  ; 
second  class,  13  fr.  75  c. 

Arona,  described  in  Route  No.  203. 

Novara,  described  in  Route  No.  204. 

[From  station  Mortara  to  Milan  there 
is  a  new  line,  more  direct  from  Genoa  to 
Milan  than  via  Novara  and  Magenta. 
Time,  5  hours;  passing  Vige ratio,  situated 
on  the  Ticino,  containing  15,500  inhabit- 
ants, and  of  considerable  importance  in  the 
silk  trade.] 

Crossing  the  Po  by  a  bridge  of  twenty- 
one  arches,  Valenza  station  is  reached, 
whence  there  is  a  line  to  VerceUi. 

Alessandria  (Alexandria)  — hotels,  De 
I1  Unifiers,  Europu,  and  Aquila — contains  a 
population  of  57,250,  and  is  the  most 
VOL.  II.— M 


remarkable  monument  of  the  Lombard 
League,  situated  between  the  Tanaro  and 
Bormida.  It  has  been  strongly  fortified 
by  the  sovereigns  of  the  house  of  Savoy. 
The  most  prominent  and  interesting  feat- 
ure of  the  city  is  the  citadel,  built  in  1728. 
In  the  centre  of  the  fortress,  which  is  im- 
mensely large,  are  a  parish  church,  exten- 
sive armories,  and  barracks.  The  Duomo. 
— The  principal  work  of  art  in  this  building 
is  the  colossal  statue  of  St.  Joseph  of  Parodi. 
Of  the  palaces,  the  (inest  specimen  is  the 
Pa'-azz'i  Gkilino,  built  by  Count  Alfieri, 
now  belonging  to  the  king. 

There  are  but  few  attractions  in  Ales- 
sandria. In  April  and  October  two  large 
business  fairs  are  held  here,  and  goods  are 
arranged  and  sold  in  a  kind  of  bazar  erect- 
ed for  this  purpose.  It  is  both  expensive 
and  inconvenient  to  stop  in  the  city  while 
these  fairs  are  going  on.  Alessandria  was 
founded  in  the  12th  century.  It  has  al- 
ways been  considered  one  of  the  bulwarks 
of  Italy  on  the  side  of  France.  The  prin- 
cipal manufactures  are  silk,  cloth,  and  lin- 
en. Churches  are  numerous ;  there  are 
also  hospitals,  a  town  house,  gymnasium, 
theatre,  public  library,  etc.  A  line  con- 
nects Alessandria  with  Savona,  via  Acqui, 
the  A  qua  Statie'ce  of  the  Romans,  an  epis- 
copal town  of  9000  inhabitants.  Its  min- 
eral waters  are  quite  celebrated. 

The  battle-iield  of  Marengo  lies  a  little 
east  of  the  town.  This  was  one  of  Napo- 
leon's hardest-fought  battles.  Abbott,  in 
his  Life  of  Napoleon,  describes  this  action : 

"Before  daybreak  on  the  morning  of  the 
14th  of  June,  Melas,  the  Austrian  general, 
having  accumulated  40,000  men,  including 
7000  cavalry  and  200  pieces  of  cannon,  made 
an  impetuous  assault  upon  the  French,  but 
20,000  in  number,  drawn  up  upon  the  plain 
of  Marengo.  Desaix,  with  a  reserve  of 
6000  men,  was  at  such  a  distance,  nearly 
30  miles,  from  Marengo  that  he  could  not 
possibly  be  recalled  before  the  close  of 
the  day.  The  danger  was  frightful  that 
the  French  would  be  entirely  cut  to  pieces 
before  any  succor  could  arrive.  But  the 
quick  ear  of  Desaix  caught  the  sound  of 
the  heavy  cannonade  as  it  came  booming 
over  the  plain  like  distant  thunder.  He 
sprang  from  his  couch  and  listened.  The 
heavy  and  uninterrupted  roar  proclaimed 
a  pitched  battle,  and  he  was  alarmed  for 
his  beloved  chief.  Immediately  he  roused 
797 


MAREXGO. 


[ITALY.] 


MARENGO. 


his  troops,  and  they  started  upon  the  rush 
to  succor  their  comrades.  Napoleon  dis- 
patched courier  aftsr  courier  to  hurry  the 
division  along,  while  his  troops  stood  firm 
through  terriiic  hours  as  their  ranks  were 
plowed  by  the  murderous  discharges  of 
their  foes.  At  last  the  destruction  was  too 
awful  for  mortal  man  to  endure.  Many 
divisions  of  the  army  broke  and  fled,  cry- 
ing, 'All  is  lost:  save  himself  who  can/' 

"A  scene  of  frightful  disorder  ensued. 
The  whole  plain  was  covered  with  fugi- 
tives, swept  like  an  inundation  before  the 
multitudinous  Austrian*.  Napoleon  still 
held  a  few  squares  together,  who  slowly 
and  sullenly  retreated,  while  290  pieces  of 
artillery,  closely  pressing  them,  poured  in- 
cessant death  into  their  ranks.  Every  foot 
of  ground  was  left  encumbered  with  the 
dead.  It  was  now  3  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon. Melas,  exhausted  with  toil,  and  as- 
sured that  he  had  gained  a  complete  vic- 
tory,  left  General  Zach  to  finish  the  work. 
He  retired  to  his  head-quarters,  and  im- 
mediate^- dispatched  couriers  over  all  Eu- 
rope to  announce  the  great  victory  of  Ma- 
rengo.  '  Melas  is  too  sanguine,'  said  an 
Austrian  veteran,  who  had  before  encoun- 
tered Napoleon  at  Arcola  and  Kivoli ;  'de- 
pend upon  it,  our  day's  work  is  not  yet 
done.  Napoleon  will  !>e  yet  upon  us  with 
his  reserve.'  Just  then  the  anxious  eye 
of  the  First  Consul  espied  the  solid  col- 
umns of  Desaix  entering  the  plain.  De- 
saix, plunging  his  spurs  into  his  horse, 
outstripped  all  the  rest,  and  gallopad  into 
the  presence  of  Napoleon.  As  he  cast  a 
glance  over  the  wild  confusion  and  devas- 
tation of  the  field,  he  exclaimed  hurriedly, 
'  I  see  that  the  battle  is  lost.  I  suppose  I 
can  do  no  more  for  you  than  to  secure  your 
retreat.'  '  By  no  means,'  Napoleon  replied, 
with  apparently  as  much  composure  as  if 
he  had  been  sitting  by  his  own  fireside ; 
'  the  battle,  I  trust,  is  gained.  Charge  with 
your  column.  The  disordered  troops  will 
rally  in  your  rear.' 

"Like  a  rock,  Desaix,  with  his  solid 
phalanx  of  10,000  men,  met  the  on-rolling 
billow  of  Austrian  victory.  At  the  same 
time,  Napoleon  dispatched  an  order  to  Kol- 
lermann  with  his  cavalry  to  charge  the  tri- 
umphant column  of  the  Austrians  in  Hank. 
It  was  the  work  of  a  moment,  and  the  \vhole 
aspect  of  the  field  was  changed.  Napoleon 
rode  along  the  lines  of  those  on  the  retreat, 
798 


exclaiming.  '  My  friends,  we  have  retreat- 
ed far  enough.  It  is  now  our  turn  to  ad- 
vance. Hecollect  that  I  am  in  the  habit 
of  sleeping  on  the  field  of  battle.' 

"The  fugitives,  reanimated  by  the  ar- 
rival of  the  reserve,  immediately  rallied 
in  their  rear.  The  double  charge  in  front 
and  flank  was  instantly  made.  The  Aus- 
trians were  checked  and  staggered.  A 
tornado  of  bullets  from  Desaix's  division 
swept  their  ranks.  They  poured  an  an- 
swering volley  into  the  bosoms  of  the 
French.  A  bullet  pierced  the  heart  of 
Desaix,  and  he  fell,  and  almost  immediate- 
ly expired.  His  last  words  were, '  Tell  the 
First  Consul  that  my  only  regret  in  dying 
is  to  have  perished  before  having  done 
enough  to  live  in  the  recollection  of  pos- 
terity.' 

"  The  soldiers,  who  devotedly  loved  him, 
saw  his  fall,  and  rushed  more  madly  on  to 
avenge  his  death.  The  swollen  tide  of 
uproar,  confusion,  and  dismay  now  turned, 
and  rolled  in  surging  billows  in  the  oppo- 
site direction.  Hardly  one  moment  now 
elnpsed  before  the  Austrians,  flushed  with 
victory,  found  themselves  overwhelmed  by 
defeat.  In  the  midst  of  this  terrific  scene, 
an  aid  rode  up  to  Napoleon  and  said,  '  De- 
saix is  dead.'  But  a  moment  before  they 
were  conversing  side  by  side.  Napoleon 
pressed  his  head  convulsively  with  his 
hand,  and  exclaimed  mournfully,  '  AVhy  is 
it  not  permitted  me  to  weep!'  Victory  at 
such  a  price  is  dear. 

"  The  French  now  made  the  welkin  ring 
with  shouts  of  victor\\  Indescribable  dis- 
may filled  the  Austrian  ranks  as  wildly 
they  rushed  before  their  unrelenting  pur- 
suers. Their  rout  was  utter  and  hopi'lrss. 
When  the  sun  went  down  on  this  field  of 
blood,  after  twelve  hours  of  the  most  fright- 
ful carnage,  a  scene  was  presented  horrid 
enough  to  appal  the  heart  of  a  demon. 
More  than  20,000  human  beings  were 
strewn  upon  the  ground,  the  dying  and 
the  dead  weltering  in  gore,  and  in  every 
conceivable  form  of  disfiguration.  Horses, 
with  limbs  torn  from  their  bodies,  were 
struggling  in  convulsive  agonies.  Frag- 
ments of  guns  and  swords,  and  of  military 
wagons  of  every  description,  were  strewed 
around  in  wild  ruin.  Frequent  piercing 
cries,  which  agony  extorted  from  the  lac- 
erated victims  of  war,  rose  above  the  gen- 
eral meanings  of  anguish,  which,  like  wail- 


GE 


Harpe 


OA 


and -Book . 


Novi. 


[ITALY.] 


GEXOA. 


ings  of  the  storm,  fell  heavily  upon  the  oar. 
The  shades  of  night  were  now  descending 
upon  this  awful  scene  of  misery.  The  mul- 
titude of  the  wounded  was  so  great  that, 
notwithstanding  the  utmost  exertions  of 
the  surgeons,  hour  after  hour  of  the  long 
night  lingered  away,  while  thousands  of 
the  wounded  and  the  dying  bit  the  dust  in 
their  agony." 

\oi-i  is  situated  on  an  eminence  to  the 
right.  It  is  noted  for  the  quality  of  silk 
grown  in  the  district.  It  was  the  scene  of 
a  defeat  the  French  sustained  in  1799  by 
the  Austrian?  and  Russians  under  Suwar- 
row.  Gen.  Joubert  was  killed.  The  town 
contains  a  citadel  and  11,500  inhabitants. 


Genoa  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  gulf 
of  that  name.  Principal  hotels : 

Grand  Hotel  de  GUnes,  a  new  house,  very 
well  frequented  :  and  the 

Grand  Hotel  Isotta,  first  class,  with  lift; 
also  proprietor  of  the 

Hotel  de  France,  Place  de  la  Bourse. 

Genoa  is  a  city  of  great  antiquity ;  It 
contains  a  population  of  162,675.  In  the 
llth  century,  after  many  vicissitudes,  she 
became  the  capital  of  an  independent  re- 
public, and  by  her  extensive  commerce, 
and  her  settlements  and  dependencies  in 
various  parts  of  the  Mediterranean  and 
Black  Seas,  was  greatly  distinguished.  Ri- 
val interests  involved  the  Genoese  in  a 
long-continued  conflict  with  the  republics 
of  Pisa  and  Venice  ;  the  latter  was  the 
most  remarkable,  in  the  annals  of  the  Mid- 
dle Ages,  occurring  between  the  years  137C 
and  1382.  The  Venetians  were  defeated 
at  Polo,  and,  had  the  Genoese  immediate- 
ly followed  up  their  successes,  would  have 
taken  Venice ;  but,  by  their  procrastina- 
tion, allowed  the  Venetians  sufficient  time. 
to  recover  from  the  dilemma  into  which 
they  had  been  thrown,  and  were  thereby 
compelled  to  retire.  From  that  date  Ven- 
ice gained  the  ascendency.  The  govern- 
ment of  Genoa  was  for  a  long  time  in  a 
revolutionary  state,  and  contests  were  con- 
stantly arising  between  the  nobility  and 
citizens.  It  was  not  until  1756  that  it  be- 
came tranquil.  In  1797  the  city  was  taken 
by  the  French,  but  after  the  downfall  of 
Napoleon  was  assigned,  together  with  the 
adjacent  territory,  to  the  King  of  Sardinia 
by  the  Congress  of  Vienna  in  1815. 


The  land  on  which  Genoa  is  built  rises 
to  the  height  of  500  feet,  and  gives  it  a 
grand  and  imposing  appearance,  especially 
from  the  sea.  In  the  background  rise  the 
Apennines,  which,  during  a  portion  of  the 
year,  are  covered  with  snow.  The  city 
has  been  frequently  increased  in  size,  and 
its  walls  very  much  enlarged  ;  some  traces 
of  the  old  Roman  walls  are  yet  visible. 
At  the  end  of  the  17th  century  this  mag- 
nificent city  was  bombarded,  and  almost 
reduced  to  ashes,  by  Louis  XIV.,  whom 
she  had  offended  by  selling  ammunition  to 
the  pirates,  and  for  building  ships  for  the 
Spanish  navy.  The  Doge  and  principal 
senators  were  sent  to  Paris  to  deprecate  tha 
vengeance  of  Louis.  The  old  portion  of 
the  city  is  laid  out  in  narrow,  crooked 
streets,  but  in  the  newer  portion  they  are 
wide  and  handsome.  The  climate  is  pure, 
and  tha  atmosphere  healthy ;  it  is  well 
supplied  with  water  brought  from  the  River 
Bisagno.  Beggars  here  are  few  in  num- 
ber, which  makes  it  more  agreeable  than 
most  Italian  cities. 

The  harlxr  is  well  inclosed,  and  protect- 
ed by  two  gigantic  moles,  the  Molo  Vecchio 
and  .l/o/o  Xu/tm;  rising  to  a  height  of  384 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  is  the  light- 
house, which  exhibits  a  flashing  light  that 
revolves,  and  may  be  seen  nearly  30  miles 
on  a  clear  night ;  it  should  be  ascended  by 
those  who  wish  to  procure  a  fine  view. 
On  the  north  side  of  the  harbor  is  the  arse- 
nal, to  which  has  recently  been  added  a 
dry-dock;  here  also  is  a  prison  for  con- 
victs, who  are  still  known  by  the  name  of 
galley-slaves. 

The  style  of  architecture  in  Genoa  is 
very  magnificent ;  some  of  the  gates  of  en- 
trance to  the  palaces  are  40  feet  high ; 
there  are  not  as  many  remains  of  ancient 
splendor  as  in  Venice,  hut  more  actual 
wealth  and  comfort.  The  palaces  are  su- 
perior in  style  to  those  of  Rome  ;  the  roofs 
are  frequently  flat,  and  adorned  wivh 
shrubs  and  such  trees  as  the  orange,  lem- 
on, pomegranate,  oleander,  etc.,  24  feet  in 
height,  refreshed  by  fountains  which  play 
constantly  during  the  heat  of  summer. 

The  Genoese  are  an  extremely  indus- 
trious people  :  the  females  arc  quite  inter- 
esting in  their  appearance,  well-propor- 
tioned, slight  frame,  ('.ark  hair  and  <  \  >•>. 
with  a  countenance  brilliant  and  express- 
ive. Their  graceful  appearance  id  in- 
799 


GENOA. 


[ITALY.] 


GENOA. 


creased  by  the  long  flowing  veil  which 
they  wear,  fastened  in  the  hair  with  gold 
pins,  and  then  fulling  modestly  around 
their  necks  and  shoulders,  showing,  at  the 
same  time,  their  pretty  faces  through  the 
mist  of  snow-white  illusion. 

The  Corso  is  the  celebrated  promenade 
where  the  young  and  old,  grave  and  gay, 
enjoy  all  the  sociability  that  exists  in  Ge- 
noa, visiting  not  being  at  all  customary 
within  doors. 

The  renowned  discoverer  of  America, 
Christopher  Columbus,  was  born  at  Genoa, 
or  in  the  suburbs,  in  1436 :  he  was  the  son 
of  a  cloth  manufacturer  in  Genoa.  It  is 
asserted  by  some  that  he  was  born  at 
Coyo/eto,  but  there  is  no  reason  for  believ- 
ing the  statement.  A  monument  has  been 
erected  to  his  memorj-.  It  is  situated  near 
the  railway  station.  At  the  feet  of  the 
statue,  which  rests  on  an  anchor,  the  figure 
of  America  is  kneeling  ;  the  whole  is  com- 
posed of  white  marble.  There  are  four  al- 
legorical figures,  representing  Geography, 
Religion,  Strength,  and  Wisdom.  It  was 
erected  in  1862.  Columbus  was  a  man  of 
penetrating  genius,  and  constantly  am- 
bitious of  accomplishing  something  that 
would  perpetuate  his  fame,  and  at  the  same 
time  gratify  his  passion  of  curiosity  and 
love  of  adventure.  He  first  applied  to 
Genoa,  his  native  place,  for  assistance  to 
attempt  discoveries  in  the  "Western  seas, 
but  was  refused,  and  regarded  as  visiona- 
ry. The  same  ill  success  attended  him 
upon  application  to  the  courts  of  Portugal 
and  England.  He  finally  applied  to  Spain, 
where  he  received  encouragement  from 
Ferdinand  and  Isabella  in  the  way  of  three 
small  ships  and  17,000  ducats.  He  soon 
discovered  the  islands  of  Cuba  and  His- 
paniola,  which  he  took  possession  of.  Fer- 
dinand and  Isabella  were  now  prevailed 
upon  to  fit  out  a  new  armament  to  enable 
him  to  make  farther  discoveries;  so,  the 
second  time,  he  Bailed  with  a  fleet  of  17 
ships,  and  discovered  the  Caribbee  Islands 
and  Jamaica.  In  his  third  voyage  he  dis- 
covered the  continent  toward  that  p-irt  of 
South  America  where  Carth^geua  was  aft- 
erward built. 

CHURCHES. 

The  Cathedral  of  San  Lorenzo  was  built 
in  the  llth  century,  in  Gothic  style,  with 
a  singular  exterior,  being  formed  of  hori- 

800 


'  zontal  stripes  of  white  and  black  marble. 
It  has  but  one  tower,  although  two  were 
evidently  intended  originally.  Some  of 
the  inscriptions  in  the  church  give  the  his- 
tory of  the  foundation  of  the  city.  The 
choir  and  side  chapels,  which  have  been 
modernized,  are  covered  with  paintings, 
gilding,  and  carving.  A  fine  statue  of  the 
!  Madonna  and  Child  in  bronze,  a  work  of 
the  17th  century,  by  G.  P.  Bianchi,  deco- 
rates the  high-altar.  By  far  the  most 
beautiful  portion  of  the  church  is  the  Chap- 
\  el  of  fit.  John  the  Baptist.  Females  are  pro- 
hibited by  a  law  of  Pope  Innocent  VIII. 
,  from  entering  here,  except  on  one  day  of 
|  the  year,  the  saint's  death  being  at  the  in- 
stigation of  a  woman.  The  canopy  over 
the  altar,  covering  the  sarcophagus,  in 
which  are  deposited  the  relics  of  the  Bap- 
tist, was  erected  at  the  private  expense  of 
Filippo  Doria  in  1532.  The  relics  of  the 
saint,  which  are  contained  in  an  iron-bound 
chest,  are  carried  in  procession  on  the  day 
of  his  birth,  being  placed  in  the  Cassone  di 
San  Gifminni,  a  shrine  which  is  carefully 
preserved  in  the  treasury  of  the  Cathedral. 
It  is  composed  of  silver-gilt,  and  the  sides 
represent  the  history  of  St.  John.  There 
is  in  the  treasury,  however,  a  still  more  in- 
teresting relic,  the  Sacro  Catino,  which  was 
taken  at  Caesarea  1101.  It  is  said  to  be 
the  dish  from  which  Christ  ate  the  Last 
Supper.  It  was  originally  presented  to 
King  Solomon  by  the  Queen  of  Sheba,  and 
afterward  preserved  in  the  Temple.  At 
the  time  the  combined  armies  of  Genoa  and 
Pisa  captured  Caesarea,  the  Genoese  took 
the  emerald  dish  for  their  share  of  the 
booty,  and  it  was  brought  to  Genoa,  where 
it  was  held  in  such  veneration  that  twelve 
nobles  were  appointed  to  guard  it.  It  was 
only  exhibited  once  a  year,  and  then  the 
priest  held  it  by  a  cord  while  viewed  by 
the  crowd.  So  valuable  was  it  then  con- 
sidered that  the  Jews  lent  the  Genoese 
4,000,000  francs  on  it  within  fifty  years. 
It  was  borrowed  of  Italy  by  Napoleon  in^ 
1809,  among  other  relics,  and  it  remained; 
in  Paris  until  1815.  It  was  broken,  how- 
ever, and  was  then  ascertained  to  be  mere- 
ly an  ancient  specimen  of  glass,  which 
caused  the  Genoese  to  lose  their  belief  in 
the  relic,  and  was  a  loss  of  capital  of  near- 
ly a  million  dollars. 

Church  of  ISAnnunziuta,  second  in  size 
to  the  Cathedral,  was  erected  at  the  private 


GEXOA. 


[ITALY.] 


GKJJOA. 


expense  of  the  Lomellini  family.  This  is 
truly  a  magnificent  building,  rich  in  deco- 
rations and  highly  colored  frescoes.  Over 
the  entrance  is  the  famous  Cenacola  of 
Procaccini.  The  rich  marbles  in  the  inte- 
rior of  this  church  give  it  an  appearance 
of  great  beauty. 

Church  of  s'l.  A  mbrogio  di  Gesit.  This  is 
also  a.  monument  of  private  munificence, 
erected  by  the  Pallavicini  family.  It  is 
richly  decorated  in  gold  and  colors.  Here 
are  several  fine  paintings — the  Assump- 
tion, by  Guido,  and  the  Circumcision,  by 
Rubens. 

Church  of  Santa  Maria  di  Carignmo, 
built  by  the  Sauli  family  at  a  very  great 
expense.  They  also  erected  the  bridge 
leading  to  it.  From  the  cupola  on  top  of 
the  church,  which  is  easy  of  ascent,  a  fine 
view  of  Genoa  may  be  obtained. 

Church  of  St.  Stefano  delta  Porta  is  prin- 
cipally noted  for  a  fine  altar-piece,  repre- 
senting the  martyrdom  of  the  patron  saint, 
the  joint  work  of  Raphael  and  Guido  Ro- 
mano. 

Church  of  San  Malteo  is  an  interesting 
little  edifice,  and  is  the  burial-place  of  the 
Dorias.  It  has  always  remained  under  the 
patronage  of  the  family,  and  the  interior 
was  very  beautifully  decorated  and  recon- 
structed at  the  expense  of  the  celebrated 
Andrea  Doria.  Many  of  the  tombs  and 
inscriptions  are  very  curious. 

Church  of  San  Siro. — This  is  the  most 
ancient  church  in  Genoa,  and  the  one  to 
which  is  attached  the  most  important  his- 
torical associations.  It  was  here,  in  1339, 
that  Simone  Boccanegra  was  inaugurated 
the  first  Doge  of  Genoa :  and  in  1257  Giug- 
lielmo  Boccanegra  was  proclaimed  Capita- 
no  del  Popolo. 

PALACES. 

There  are  multitudes  of  these,  and,  in 
this  "city  of  palaces,"  an  attempt  at  de- 
scription would  be  but  a  fruitless  endeav- 
or ;  they  are  generally  very  beautiful,  and 
contribute  their  share  toward  sustaining 
the  title  with  which  the  city  has  been  en- 
dowed, of  "  La  Superba."  They  are  rich  in 
paintings,  and  are  generally  thrown  open 
to  visitors.  The  principal  and  most  at- 
tractive buildings  are  situated  upon  the 
Strada  Xuovo  and  Strada  Balbi. 

Palazzo  Brignole  contains  the  finest  col- 
lection of  paintings  in  Genoa ;  fee.  1  franc. 


Catalogues  for  the  use  of  visitors.     The 
works  of  Titian,  Guido,   Paul  Veronese, 

!  Louis  Caracci.  Carlo  Dolci,  Paris  Bordone, 
Vandyke,  Rubens,  Guercino,  Caravaggio, 

j  and    Giordano    are    here    in    abundance. 

:  There  is  also  a  model  of  a  monument,  in 

!  bronze  and  marble,  to  Columbus,  executed 
at  the  individual  expense  of  the  Marquis 
Brignoli. 

Palazzo  Pallavicini  possesses  the  second 

!  best  collection  of  paintings  in  Genoa : 
they  are  principally  works  of  the  best  mus- 
ters. 

Palazzo  Dorio  Torsi. — This  palace  for- 
merly belonged  to  the  Queen-Dowager  of 
Sardinia.  It  is  now  occupied  by  the  mu- 
nicipality of  Genoa.  Among  the  curiosi- 
ties is  a  bust  of  Columbus,  and  some  of  his 
most  interesting  MSS.  preserved  under 
triple  lock  and  key.  There  is  also  a  bronze 
table  kept  as  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
monuments  of  Genoese  history. 

The  Palazzo  Balbi  is  handsomely  dec- 
orated, and  contains  a  good  collection  of 
paintings  on  the  first  floor;  fee,  1  franc. 
A  Titi  m,  St.  Jerome  ;  a  Madonna,  by  Van- 
dyke ;  Conversion  of  St.  Paul,  by  Cara- 
vaggio ;  a  Holy  Family,  by  Guido,  also  one 
by  llemlin;i ;  \\ith  numerous  others  by  Jiu- 
bens,  Michael  Angela,  Schiavone,  and  Ber- 
nardino, and  others  of  nearly  equal  merit. 
Palazzo  Rea'e,  formerly  the  palace  of  the 
Durazzo  family,  was  fitted  up  in  splendid 
style  as  a  royal  residence  for  Charles  Al- 
bert in  1842.  Shown  daily  in  the  absence 
of  the  royal  family :  the  apartments  are 
very  fine,  but  most  of  the  valuable  pictures 
have  been  removed  to  Turin. 

Palazzo  Doria. — This,  by  far  the  most 
interesting  palace  of  all,  is  situated  in  the 
centre  of  a  beautiful  garden,  which  extends 
to  the  sea,  and  forms  a  fine  feature  in  the 
picturesque  scenery  of  Genoa.  The  in- 
scription on  the  exterior  of  the  edifice  ex- 
presses the  stately  feelings  of  Doria,  also 
called  "  II  Principe,"  which  title  he  re- 
ceived from  Charles  V.  Many  portions 
of  the  architecture  were  designed  by  Piero- 
na  del  Vaga,  who  was  received  kindly  and 
employed  faithfully  by  Doria,  after  having 
been  driven  from  Rome  in  a  poor  and  sor- 
rowful condition  by  the  calamities  which 
had  befallen  the  F.ternal  City  when  storm- 
ed by  the  Imperialists  in  1527.  The  dec- 
orations of  this  palace  areextremelv  beau- 
tiful. Among  the  pictures  are  portraits  of 
801 


GEXOA. 


[ITALY.] 


GENOA. 


Andrea  Doria  and  family.  In  the  garden 
are  walks  of  cypress  and  orange ;  also 
fountains,  statue?,  and  vases.  A  monu- 
ment was  here  erected  by  Doria  to  ''  II 
gran  Roldano,"  a  great  dog  presented  to 
him  by  Charles  V.  The  Doria  family,  to 
whom  the  palace  belongs,  generally  reside 
at  Rome. 

The  Palazzo  della  Universita  contains  a 
library  of  upward  of  40,000  volunu-s  :  nl-o 
a  museum  of  natural  history  and  a  me- 
teorological observatory.  The  University 
consists  of  three  faculties,  Law,  Medicine, 
and  Humanities,  each  of  which  is  gov- 
erned by  a  senate  composed  of  twelve 
directors,  by  whom  the  degrees  are  con- 
ferred. 

The  Palazzo  Ducale,  now  converted  into 
government  offices,  was  formerty  the  res- 
idence of  the  Doges  of  the  republic,  who 
were  elected  to  office  for  two  years.  The 
front  of  the  building  is  exceedingly  attract- 
ive, as  is  also  the  vestibule,  which  is  sup- 
ported by  80  columns  of  white  marble. 

Hank  of  St.  George,  the  oldest  bank  of 
circulation  in  Europe.  It  was  founded  in 
1407.  and  to  it  are  attached  many  histor- 
ical reminiscences.  The  Ijoggia  <le  Bancho, 
now  used  as  the  Exchange,  remains  an  in- 
teresting monument  of  the  former  com- 
mercial splendor  of  Genoa. 

The  Public  Institutions  are  quite  numer- 
ous and  of  great  merit.  A  deaf-and-dumb 
institute,  very  celebrated  in  Italy,  founded 
by  a  poor  monk  in  1801.  Three  hospitals, 
the  principal  of  which  is  the  Albergo  di 
Poveri,  a  fine  massive  structure,  very  neat 
and  clean,  and  covers  a  great  deal  of 
ground  ;  23,000  persons  can  be  accommo- 
dated in  this  charitable  institution.  This 
building  contains  the  finest  piece  of  sculp- 
ture in  Genoa,  a  li  Dead  Christ,"  by  Mi- 
chael Angelo. 

Accademia  Ligustica  delle  Belle  Arti. — 
This  academy  is  resorted  to  by  a  large 
number  of  pupils.  The  vestibule  contains 
a  collection  of  mediaeval  sculpture.  The 
second  contains  the  picture  -gallery  and 
sculpture -room,  with  modern  casts.  In 
the  same  building  is  the  J'ultlic  Lilnu-y, 
containing  50,000  volumes. 

Theatns.— The  Teatro  Curio  Fe'ice  is 
the  principal  one,  and  is  next  in  size  to  La 
Scala  at  Milan  and  the  San  Carlo  at  Na- 
ples. In  the  summer  and  early  in  Decem- 
ber it  is  open  for  the  regular  drama  :  in 
802 


the  spring  for  operas  and  ballets :  and  in 
the  autumn  for  operas  alone. 

Situated  on  an  eminence  at  the  north- 
east end  of  the  town  is  the  Public  Garden, 
the  favorite  promenade  of  the  citizens.  It 
is  adorned  with  a  fountain,  and  the  Cafe 
d'ltalie  is  a  universal  resort.  There  are 
military  concerts  on  Sunday  afternoons. 
Cabs,  per  course,  80  c. ;  per  hour,  1  fr.  50  c. 

Genoa  is  noted  for  its  silver  and  gold  fil- 
igree-work, of  which  visitors  arc  certain  to 
procure  a  specimen. 

In  Genoa  the  manufactures  of  silk  vel- 
vets and  plain  silk  stuffs,  black  and  colored, 
are  very  extensive.  They  have  been  cele- 
brated for  centuries,  and  are  real  special- 
ties, noted  for  their  beauty,  solidity,  and 
wear,  while  the  price  is  much  lower  than 
in  France. 


An  excursion  that  every  one  visiting 
Genoa  should  make  is  to  the  villa  of  the 
Marquis  Pallavicini.  This  most  lovely  of 
villas  is  situated  about  seven  miles  from 
the  city,  and  can  be  reached  by  rail  in 
thirty  minutes.  It  is  necessary  to  obtain 
tickets  of  admission  for  the  number  of  per- 
sons wishing  to  go  to  the  Palace  Pallavi- 
cini in  Genoa  previous  to  leaving.  One 
of  the  gardeners  acts  as  guide,  and  expects 
2  fr.  fee  per  person.  It  requires  two  hours 
to  see  the  gardens  and  park  ;  they  are  only 
open  from  11  to  3 :  one  must  make  rather 
an  exact  calculation  in  regard  to  time.  It 
would  require  a  small  volume  to  describe 
the  beauties  and  curiosities  of  the  place. 
The  park  is  planted  with  immense  laurel- 
trees  and  India  pines,  while  tropical  trees, 
plants,  and  flowers  of  the  rarest  kind  flour- 
ish in  abundance.  Fail  not  to  enter  the 
Grotto  of  Stalactites,  and  take  passage  on 
board  a  boat  which  you  will  find  ready  to 
receive  you  on  the  subterranean  lake,  and 
imagine  yourself  on  a  mythological  excur- 
sion. Cascades,  temples,  Egyptian  obe- 
Jisks,  Turkish  kiosks,  and  most  lovely  views 
meet  your  exit.  With  people  of  very  lively 
humor  the  guide  sometimes  plays  pranks 
by  touching  springs,  when  showers  of  wa- 
ter descend  on  their  devoted  heads,  and, 
when  attempting  to  flee  from  the  disaster, 
full  it  comes  in  their  faces  from  another 


GENOA. 


[ITALY.] 


PA VIA. 


direction.  There  are  beautiful  summer- 
houses  of  most  inviting  appearance — but 
woe  to  the  individual  who  enters ;  from 
even'  blossom  comes  a  stream  of  water.. 
Your  guide  will  induce  you  to  take  a  swing 
in  a  handsome  iron  chair,  and  immediately 
vou  are  the  centre  of  a  cross-fire  of  waters 
coming  from  every  direction.  A  magnifi- 
cent hotel  has  lately  been  erected  here — 
the  Grand  Hotel  Pegli — where  travelers 
will  find  it  to  their  advantage  to  make  a 
prolonged  stay. 

There  are  steamers  daily  to  Leghorn,  in 

9  hours ;  fare,  32  fr.  GO  c.     To  Marseilles 
daily,  in  20  hours ;  fare,  76  fr. ;  fee  for  em- 
barkation, 1  fr. 

Genoa  to  Paris.  Time,  2G  h.  SO  m.,viu 
Mt.  Cenis  ;  fare,  first  class,  119  fr. 

Genoti  tn  Pisii.  Time,  4  li.  21  in.;  fare, 
first  class,  18  fr.  15  c. ;  second  class,  13  fr. 
60  c. 

Genoa  to  Nice.  Time,  C  h.  -10  m.;  fare, 
first  class,  25  fr.  35  c. ;  second  class,  18  fr. 

10  c. 

Genoa  to  Mllnn.  Time,  3  h.  58  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  17  fr.  80  c.;  second  class,  12  fr. 
10  c. 

Genoa  to  Florence,  in  7  h.  20  m.,  27  fr. 
70  c.  ;  second  class,  19  fr.  45  c. 

Genoa  to  Rome,  via  Livorno,  in  13  h.  5  m. ; 
63  fr.  5  c.  (express). 

Genoa  to  Lucerne,  via  Alessandria,  No- 
vara,  Bellinzona,  and  the  St.  Gothard,  by 
rail,  in  13  h.  30  in. :  53  fr.  45  c.  (express 
fare)  ;  427  km. ; — to  Luino  (diligence  to 
Varese  or  Lugano),  in  5  h.  55  m. ;  26  fr. 
25  c.  (Swiss  frontier)  ; — to  hellinzona,  7  h. 
10  m. ;  32  fr.  70  c. ;  251  km. ;—  to  Zurich, 
14i  h. ;—  to  Berne,  17  h. ;— to  Basle,  16  h. 
30  m. 


ROUTE  Xo.  208. 

Milan  t)  Gf-mxt.  rin  J\ivi<t.  Time,  4  h. 
45  m. ;  fare,  first  ela-s,  17  fr.  25  c. ;  second 
class,  12  fr.  10  c, 

As  the  principal  object  of  this  route  is  to 
visit  the  celebrated  Ctrto.ia  of  /V««</,  per- 
haps a  day  would  be  better  spent  in  making 
an  excursion  from  Milan  and  return.  A 
day  will  be  well  spent  in  this  excursion, 


as   it  is  considered  the  richest  and  most 
splendid  monastery  in  the  world. 

The  railway  had  better  be  taken  to 
Pavia,  in  fifty  minutes,  devoting  two  hours 
to  that  town  ;  then  take  a  carriage  and 
drive  to  the  Certosa,  and  return  to  Milan 
either  from  Pavia  or  from  the  station  delta 
Cei'tosa,  only  fifteen  minutes'  walk  from  the 
Certosa. 

The  Certosa,  or  Carthusian  monastery, 
was  founded  by  Gian  Galeazza  Visconti, 
the  first  duke  of  Milan,  in  1396.  It  was 
built  to  relieve  his  conscience  of  the  mur- 
der of  his  uncle  and  father-in-law.  Twenty- 
five  monks  were  appointed  to  take  charge 
of  it,  which  they  did  until  they  were  ex- 
pelled in  1782  ;  from  this  date  until  1*10 
it  was  occupied  by  other  orders,  after  which 
it  was  closed.  In  1844  it  was  restored  to 
its  original  destination,  and  presented  to 
the  Carthusians.  A  lay  brother  generally 
conducts  visitors  through  the  building,  and 
as  it  is  kept  in  order  by  donations  and  fees, 
visitors  should  be  liberal  in  their  gifts. 

The  facade  is  entirely  covered  with  dif- 
ferent-colored marbles,  in  most  exquisite 
style  and  taste.  The  most  distinguished 
Lombard  masters  for  two  centuries  had  a 
share  in  its  decoration. 

The  body  of  the  church  consists  of  a 
nave  with  aisles,  surmounted  by  a  dome. 
On  each  side  are  seen  elegant  chapels 
adorned  with  monuments,  pictures,  and 
precious  stones.  The  transepts  and  choir 
are  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  church 
by  a  magnificent  screen  of  bronze.  The 
south  transept  contains  the  monument  of 
the  founder,  commenced  in  1490,  and  not 
completed  for  70  years.  The  north  tran- 
sept contains  monuments  of  Ludovico  il 
Moro  and  his  wife,  Beatrice  d'Este.  The 
choir,  altar,  and  choir-stalls  are  beautiful- 
ly carved  and  decorated  with  figures  of  the 
apostles  and  saints. 

Notice  in  the  old  Sacristy  the  exquisitely 
carved  ivory  altar-piece,  executed  by  Leo- 
nardo df'  L'brlachi.  In  the  altar-piece  of 
the  Oratorio  is  an  Assumption,  by  Solaria. 
The  small  cloister  of  fifty  round  arches  eon- 
tains  numerous  bas-reliefs  in  terra-cotta. 
The  great  cloister  is  surrounded  by  21  eells 
for  the  monks,  each  consisting  of  three 
rooms,  with  a  small  garden. 

J'arii   (hotel,    Ci'oce  Bi-mca)   contains 
30,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  at  the 
junction  of  the  Ticino  and  Po.     Some  of 
803 


VOGHERA. 


[ITALY.] 


CREMONA. 


its  old  walls  and  fortifications  arc  still  in  a 
fair  state  of  preservation.  Its  old  Citstle 
is  now  used  as  a  barrack. 

The  Cathedral,  still  unfinished,  occupies 
the  site  of  an  ancient  basilica.  The  gate- 
way and  campanile  are  all  that  remain. 
The  interior  of  the  church  contains  the 
Area  di  S.  Agostino,  adorned  with  nearly 
three  hundred  allegorical  figures.  A  model 
of  the  church,  as  it  was  intended  to  be  fin- 
ished, is  shown. 

•  The  old  church  of  S.  Michele  deserves  a 
visit.  It  dates  from  the  llth  century,  but 
has  been  restored. 

The  University,  said  to  have  been  found- 
ed by  Charlemagne,  is  the  oldest  in  Europe. 
In  the  first  court  is  a  marble  statue  of  An- 
tonio Bordone,  a  celebrated  mathematician ; 
in  the  second  are  three  other  statues  of  pro- 
fessors. 

The  Casa  Malaspina  contains  some  pict- 
ures, and  mediaeval  marbles  and  other  curi- 
osities. 

From  Pavia  to  Va'enza,  by  railway,  in 
two  hours. 

Voffhera  (hotel,  Italia),  a  town  of  11,000 
inhabitants,  but  containing  nothing  to  in- 
terest the  traveler. 

The  remainder  of  the  Route  is  described 
in  Route  No.  207. 


ROUTE  No.  209. 

Brescia  to  Pavia,  via  Cremona.  Time, 
5  hours;  fare,  first  class,  13  fr.  90  c. ;  second 
class  9  fr.  80  c.  For  description  of  Bres- 
cia, see  Route  No.  200. 

Cremona  (hotel,  Italia)  contains  31,500 
inhabitants,  and  is  handsomely  situated  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Po.  It  contains  very 
little  to  draw  the  traveler  within  its  limits. 
Its  ancient  history  is  a  series  of  brawls  and 
fights  with  the  neighboring  towns — Milan, 
Piacenza,  Brescia,  and  Crema.  The  Em- 
peror Henry  VII.  nearly  destroyed  it  in 
1312,  and  the  Visconti  completed  the  work. 
It  was  later  the  property  of  Milan.  In  1702 
Prince  Eugene  here  surprised  the  French 
804 


under  Marshal  Villeroi,  and  took  him  pris- 
oner. The  Austrians  also  defeated  the 
French  here  in  1799. 

Cremona  has  been  noted  for  many  cen- 
turies for  the  manufacture  of  lutes  and  vio- 
lins, the  art  being  hereditary  in  families. 
The  most  celebrated  were  those  manufact- 
ured by  A  matt,  1590-1735;  that  family  was 
succeeded  by  the  Stradivari  and  Guarnei  i ; 
but  many  other  cities  are  now  superior  to 
Cremona  in  the  manufacture  of  these  in- 
struments. 

The  Cathedral  of  Cremona  dates  from 
the  early  part  of  the  12th  century,  although 
not  consecrated  until  towards  the  close  of 
that  epoch.  It  is  built  in  the  German- 
Lombard  style,  its  facade  being  finely  em- 
bellished with  columns.  Its  interior  is 
covered  with  frescoes  by  Cremona  aitists. 
Close  to  the  Cathedral  stands  the  lending 
object  of  interest  here,  viz.,  the  Torra^zo, 
or  great  tower,  said  to  be  the  highest  in 
Italy — 396  feet.  It  was  erected  between 
1262  and  1284,  to  commemorate  the  peace 
between  Cremona,  Milan,  Piacenza,  and 
Brescia. 

The  Palazzo  Reale  contains  a  small 
gallery  of  pictures,  collection  of  coins, 
and  natural  history ;  open  daily  from 
9  to  3. 

The  Baptistery  dates  from  the  12th  cen- 
tury ;  it  is  of  octagonal  form,  and  contains 
some  very  ancient  mosaics. 

The  Campo  Santo  is  now  used  for  the 
archives  of  the  Cathedral.  In  one  of  its 
vaults  are  some  curious  old  mosaics,  with 
allegorical  figures :  it  is  difficult  to  deter- 
mine what  they  represent. 

Some  of  the  private  palaces  of  Cremona 
are  handsome  buildings,  and  contain  some 
good  paintings  and  other  works  of  art; 
among  them  are  San  Secundo,  Casa  Vidoni, 
JKaimondi,  and  Sigismondo,  a  short  distance 
from  the  town. 

Near  the  village  of  Le  Torri  is  the  Sacra- 
doti,  with  a  handsome  park. 

Half  the  distance  between  Cremona  and 
Bergamo  is  situated  Crema,  an  ancient  town 
of  9900  inhabitants.  It  is  an  episcopal  resi- 
dence, and  contains  an  old  castle. 

Pavia.    See  Route  No.  208. 


A  to 


MANTUA 


18 

19  Osped*!  ,-ivUe 

20  OffMltU  mOilare 

21  Ttatro  Seientiftco 
--  Tfatro  Rigui 

23  Teatre  altOa  Saeitta, 

Teatro  PifyUtasio 

-    25  ifflno  d*Ua  fbita. 
26 

27  />/VT  rW  /iMlica  Orolfgio 


Ha  rp«r'  t  Hand  -  Book . 


LAOO  D'ISEO. 


[ITALY.] 


MANTUA. 


ROUTE  No.  210. 


Srescit  to  Tirana  ;  thence  to  the  Baths 
of  Bormio  and  the  Bormio  Pass  to  Bremen/. 
via  Lago  d'Isco.  Sec  Route  No.  55,  Bmtz- 
erlund,  vol.  iii. 

Brescia,  described  in  Route  No.  200. 

Diligence  daily  to  Edolo  in  14  hours  ; 
fare,  7  fr.  ;  three  times  each  week  from 
Edolo  to  Tirau  ;  fare,  4  fr.  A  carriage 
might  be  taken  to  Iseo,  11  miles  on  the 
lake  ;  thence  by  steamer  to  Sarnico  in  2  h. 
30  m. ;  carriage  to  Tirano. 

This  is  a  route  not  to  be  particularly 
recommended,  unless  the  traveler  have 
plenty  of  time.  The  scenery  is  pretty,  but 
does  not  compare  with  Como ;  the  travel- 
ing not  so  comfortable,  nor  the  hotels  so 
good. 

About  11  miles  from  Brescia  is  Iseo,  a 
small  town  situated  on  the  lake  of  the 
same  name  ;  steamer  from  Sarnico  to  Lo- 
vere twice  daily. 

Logo  d'lseo  is  15J  miles  long,  and  aver- 
ages 1^  wide.  The  scenery  is  a  little  more 
wild  than  that  of  Como.  The  soil  of  its 
banks  is  highly  cultivated.  In  the  centre 
of  the  lake  there  is  a  small  island  1^  miles 
long,  called  Mezz  /so  o,  which  contains  two 
fishing  villages. 

At  Pisogne,  near  the  end  of  the  lake,  the 
scenery  is  very  beautiful. 

Lovere  (hotels,  San  Antonio  and  Postd), 
a  small  town  at  the  head  of  the  lake.  Palaz- 
zo Tadini  contains  a  small  picture-gallery, 
and  a  collection  of  natural  history  and  an- 
tiquities. The  family  chapel  contains  a 
monument  of  Canova. 

Omnibuses  daily  between  Lovere  and 
Edolo  and  Lovere  and  Bergamo. 

Breno,  fourteen  miles  from  the  head  of 
the  lake,  a  small  place,  the  capital  of  the 
district.  To  its  inhabitants  is  due  the 
structure  of  the  new  lake  road  from  Sale 
to  Marazzino  and  Pisogne,  a  most  remark- 
able work,  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and 
carried  over  precipices  on  solid  masonry. 
The  produce  of  the  country  is  mostly  silk, 
with  some  iron. 

£do'o  (hotel,  Posta),  situated  in  a  basin  of 
the  Ogll\  and  possessing  some  iron-works. 

Carriage  to  Tirano  in  six  hours  :  fare,  12 
francs. 

The  Monte  Tonale  route  here  diverges 
to  the  northeast,  connecting  with  the  rail- 
way from  Verona  to  Innsbruck.  It  was 
VOL.  1 1.— M  2 


intended  by  the  Austrian  government  as  a 
military  road  to  supersede  the  higher  one 
over  the  Stelvio  Pass. 

Passing,  over  the  admirable  new  road, 
several  poor  villages,  the  highest  point 
of  the  Pusso  d'Aprica  is  reached,  and  a 
fine  view  of  the  valley  Tellina  is  ob- 
tained ;  also  of  the  Adda,  to  the  bottom 
of  which  the  road  descends  through  two 
tunnels  and  crosses  the  Tresenda.  From] 
Tresenda  to  Tirano  is  six  miles. 

Tirano.  See  Route  No.  65,  Switzerland, 
vol.  iii.,  also  "Passes  into  Italy,"  for  rest 
of  the  route. 


ROUTE  No.  211. 

Verona  to  Modena,  vii  Mantua.  Time, 
2  h.  13  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  11  fr.  85  c.; 
second  class,  8  fr.  45  c. 

The  line  passes  over  a  level,  highly 
cultivated  country  to  Villafranca  station, 
where  the  armistice  between  France  and 
Austria  was  arranged  after  the  battle  of 
Solferino,  July  11, 1859.  A  short  distance 
to  the  north  is  the  battle-field  of  Custozza, 
where  the  Italians  were  defeated  by  the 
Austrians  in  1848  and  in  1866. 

Mantua. — Hotels,  Aqui'ud'OronnA  Croce 
Verde.  Population,  30. 500.  When  governed 
by  her  own  dukes,  during  her  prosperity, 
Mantua  contained  50,000  inhabitants,  and 
was  an  extensive  manufacturing  place. 
It  is  a  very  ancient  city,  being  founded, 
it  is  supposed,  previous  to  Rome.  It  is 
chiefly  celebrated  for  being  the  birthplace 
of  Virgil,  or,  rather,  he  was  born  at  Andes, 
now Pieio'e,  two  miles  from  Mantua,  TO  B.C., 
at  which  place  a  palace  was  built  by  one  of 
the  Gonzagos,  and  from  him  received  the 
title  of  Virgiliano.  Mantua  became  a  re- 
public after  the  conquest  of  Northern  Italy 
by  Charlemagne,  and  until  the  12th  cen- 
tury continued  under  that  form  of  govern- 
ment, at  which  time  the  Gonzago  family 
became  managers  of  its  affairs,  and  directed 
them  with  supreme  authority.  They  still 
retained  possession,  after  being  raised  to 
805 


MANTUA. 


[ITALY.] 


MANTDA. 


the  rank  of  dukes,  until  1707,  when  it  was 
taken  by  the  Austrians. 

The  situation  of  the  city  is  very  singular, 
being  built  upon  two  portions  of  land,  be- 
tween which  flows  the  River  Mincio  ;  the 
lowness  of  the  ground  makes  the  climate 
very  unhealthy.  It  is  deficient  in  natural 
beauty,  but  possesses  many  objects  of  in- 
terest in  its  ancient  buildings  and  works 
of  art.  It  is  surrounded  by  lakes,  the  prin- 
cipal of  which  are  the  Layo  di  Mezzo,  Lugo 
di  Sopra,  and  Lago  Inferiore.  A  portion 
of  these  lakes  are  natural,  and  the  other 
portions  are  formed  by  damming  up  the 
waters  of  the  river.  They  are  crossed  by 
six  stone  bridges,  which  connect  the  town 
with  the  Borgo  di  Fortezza,  a  strong  citadel 
of  Porto  in  the  north,  and  also  with  the 
Borgo  di  San  Georgia,  and  is  surrounded 
by  strong  walls.  Mantua,  from  being  so 
strongly  fortified,  is  rendered  one  of  the 
bulwarks  of  Italy.  The  excursion  from 
Verona  to  Mantua  is  very  charming,  espe- 
cially as  the  sun  is  declining,  affording  the 
romantic  traveler  an  opportunity  of  enjoy- 
ing the  beauties  of  an  Italian  sky  and  sun- 

The  central  part  of  the  city  exhibits 
signs  of  commercial  activity,  but  the  out- 
skirts are  exceedingly  quiet,  and  the  dilap- 
idated state  of  many  of  the  buildings  bear 
witness  to  the  misfortunes  which  Mantua 
has  sustained.  Its  ancient  splendor  i.s  still 
visible,  however,  in  many  interesting  rel- 
ics which  yet  remain.  One  of  the  most 
important  buildings  to  be  noticed  is  the 
Castello  di  Corte,  palace  of  the  Gonzago 
family,  erected  by  Francesco  Gonzago  IV., 
capitan o  of  Mantua.  It  is  a  vast  struc- 
ture, with  noble  towers,  which,  however, 
are  greatly  decayed  and  battered ;  a  por- 
tion of  the  building  is  now  used  as  a  prison, 
the  other  portion  as  public  offices ;  in  these 
may  be  seen  some  ancient  frescoes  which 
are  very  rich. 

Palazzo  Imperials. — This  mansion,  which 
once  boasted  of  so  much  grandeur,  is  now 
entirely  deserted  ;  yet  on  every  wall  may 
be  seen  works  of  old  masters,  frescoes  of 
great  beauty  and  effect.  The  rooms  are 
nearly  500  in  number,  and  were  formerly 
fitted  up  in  the  most  gorgeous  style,  with 
Flemish  and  Mantuan  tapestry,  and  ele- 
gant furniture  :  it  is  floored  with  porcelain. 
This  palace  was  built  for  the  third  sover- 
eign of  Mantua.  The  genius  of  Giulio 
806 


Romano  is  most  advantageously  displayed 
in  the  paintings  which  adorn  the  building. 
The  Stanz  dell'  Imperatrice  formerly  con- 
tained Raphael's  tapestry,  now  at  Vienna. 

The  Sala  dello  Zodiaco,  also  finely  paint- 
ed by  Giulio  Roman-).  Napoleon  I.  once 
occupied  this  apartment. 

There  are  few  pictures  of  any  importance 
now  remaining. 

Churches.  —  The  Duomo  is  said  to  have 
been  designed  by  Giulio  Romano,  in  imita- 
tion of  the  church  of  Sta.  Maria  Maggiore 
at  Rome.  It  is  richly  decorated,  but  pos- 
sesses few  paintings.  Church  of  St.  Andrea 
is  far  superior  to  the  Cathedral,  and,  in  fact, 
is  considered  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
churches  in  Italy.  Mantegna  is  buried 
here,  and  the  bust  of  him  is  a  fine  piece  of 
workmanship.  Many  of  the  monuments 
are  interesting,  having  been  erected  to 
persons  of  celebrity.  Beneath  the  high- 
altar  is  the  shrine,  containing  the  blood  of 
our  Lord.  The  campanile  is  still  standing. 

The  Mtiseo  Antiquari-)  contains  many 
Roman  statues  and  some  Greek  ;  also  sev- 
eral imperial  busts,  one  of  Virgil,  and  a 
superior  Caligula. 

The  best  part  of  Mantua  is  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Piazza  Virgiliana,  which  is 
a  large  square  surrounded  by  trees  and 
open  to  the  lake.  The  Ponte  fli  San  Gior- 
r/in.  which  crosses  the  entire  lake,  is  2500 
feet  in  length  :  it  was  built  in  the  14th 
century.  Mantua  has  an  academy  of  fine 
arts,  a  public  library  containing  80,000 
volumes,  two  orphan  asylums,  a  lyceum,  a 
gymnasium,  a  work-house,  botanic  garden, 
and  man}'  other  institutions  of  science  and 
industry.  Opposite  to  the  church  of  Sta. 
Barbara  is  the  residence  of  Giulio  Romano: 
liis  remains  were  interred  in  the  church 
just  mentioned. 

A  short  distance  from  Mantua  is  the  Pa- 
lazzo del  T ;  it  is  from  the  design  of  Giulio 
Romano,  who  also  acted  as  sculptor,  and 
bestowed  upon  the  paintings  some  of  his 
most  exquisite  touches.  The  Hall  of  Gi- 
ants is  an  immense  study,  so  varied  are  the 
figures  therein  represented. 

Mantua  to  Parma ;  diligence,  in  6  h.  30 
in.  ;  fare,  8  fr. 

Mantua  to  Regtjio,  diligence,  in-  7  h.  30 
m.  Near  Ifeggio  is  (ivstalln,  in  the  market- 
place of  which  is  a  monument  to  Ferdinand 
I.  Gonzagas. 

Mantua  to  Cremona;  railway  recently 


PER 


CartfUa  dtylt  antichi  Duchi 

I'tilaxao  delta,  Ragione  ivntune 

Sitnitmria 

Tmiro  Sonamtfi 

idftt  del  .Iriaxta 

fbsta  dfJle  Letters 

fbsta  dfi  CaoaUi 

Tnittv  Girnunale 


16  Caaedraie 

17  Corpus  Domini 

18  >>'.  Pemi-nia> 

IB  S.Giotxuuii  Battifta 

20  S.Jfasva  in  I  ado 

21  j:  /5r«/o 

22  S.  jffaurelia  HappucciniJ 

23  j:  Giroltiuio 


Studio 
fttlaxxo  dt-tltt 
Ciar-dino  Jiotanitfi 
^cadernifi   Jriostea- 


26  S.  Francesco 

27  J1!  Cristofbv  (CertoM,  i'amfw  Mi 

28  .V.  Ketiedetto 

29  S.^ndmt 

Places 

30  <^'  Pollttjoli 

31  </«V  Comniercio 

32  Kwn  Canals 

33  t/l 


35       Ml  On, 
\    36 


A  R  A 


3V'*wv.    - 

v 


uul-Hook 


CARPI. 


[ITALY.] 


FEHRAICA. 


finished.  Time,  2  h.  35  m. ;  fare,  first  class, 
7  fr.  5  c. 

Continuing  the  route  to  Modena,  the 
station  /?o'o-.Ywt  is  passed,  ten  miles  east 
of  which  is  the  town  of  Mirundola,  at  cnn- 
time  the  capital  of  a  duchy  of  that  name. 
The  duchy  was  sold  to  the  Duke  of  Modena 
liy  I'rancisco  Maria,  last  Duke  of  Miran- 
dola  and  Concordia,  in  1710. 

Cai-pi  contains  5500  inhabitants,  with  an 
old  castle,  modern  palace,  and  cathedral. 
Seven  miles  west  is  the  small  town  of 
Corrrggio,  formerly  the  capital  of  a  princi- 
pality belonging  to  the  duchy  of  Modena, 
and  noted  as  the  birthplace  of  the  cele- 
brated painter  of  that  name,  who  was  born 
here  in  1494.  There  are  a  few  of  his  pict- 
ures still  preserved  in  the  town. 

Modena.     See  Route  No.  215. 


ROUTE  No.  212. 

Pa-Iua  to  Bologn-j,  via  Ferrara.  Time, 
2  h.  55  in. ;  fare,  first  class,  14  fr.  45  c. ; 
second  class,  10  fr.  20  c. 

Abano  station,  a  small  place  ;  birthplace 
of  the  historian  Livy;  in  the  vicinity  of 
which  is  Bagni,  containing  warm  springs. 

Near  the  station  Battiy/i  t  is  the  line 
chateau  of  Cattujo.  the  property  of  the  late 
Duke  of  Modena  (died  1875).  It  was  erect- 
ed by  a  noble  Venetian  named  Obbizzo, 
and  contains  a  valuable  collection  of  Etrus- 
can vases,  urns,  etc.,  with  many  valuable 
antique  statues. 

There  are  some  warm  baths  in  the  vicin- 
ity, the  property  of  Count  Wimpffen. 

A  short  distance  to  the  east  of  Battaglia 
is  Argua,  dfl  Monte,  a  favorite  retreat  of 
Petrarch,  who  died  here  in  1374. 

Four  mrles  from  the  station  Este  is  the 
ancient  town  of  Ateste,  containing  the  old 
ancestral  residence  of  the  house  of  Este, 
now  in  a  ruinous  condition. 

This  ancient  and  noble  family  took  its 
name  from  the  town  or  citv  of  Este,  near 
1'adua,  which  was  part  of  its  possessions. 
It  reigned  also  over  Ferrara,  Modena,  and 


Reggio.  From  it  were  descended  the  dukes 
of  Brunswick  and  Hanover,  and  the  present 
reigning  family  of  England. 

From  it  al>o  descended  the  dukes  of 
Tuscan}',  Guy,  and  Lambert.  Kings, 
dukes,  popes,  cardinals,  and  archbishops 
i  have  been  members  of  this  important  fam- 
ily, and  they  have  been  universally  known 
for  the  protection  they  have  accorded  to 
learning  and  art.  Tats°>,  Titian,  Guarini, 
all  could  speak  of  their  patronage  ;  and 
well  might  the  Duke  of  Modena,  who  died 
in  November,  1875,  make  it  a  .-iue  qua  non 
that  his  heir  could  only  inherit  (75  million 
francs)  by  adding  the  name  of  Este  to  his 
other  names.  There,  of  course,  have  been 
black  sheep  in  the  flock,  as  in  all  families. 
Byron's  Azzo,  Lucretia  Borgia,  etc. 

Rovigo  possesses  a  leaning  tower,  and  is 
an  episcopal  residence.  East  of  Rovigo  is 
the  town  of  Adria,  situated  on  the  Bianco 
Canal.  It  is  an  ancient  Etruscan  town,  and 
gave  its  name  to  the  Adriatic  Sea.  It  was 
formerly  on  the  gulf,  but  the  water  has  re- 
ceded some  sixteen  miles  from  it. 

Ferrara. — This  city  is  situated  3  miles 
south  of  the  Po,  and  contains  27,000  inhab- 
itants. Principal  hotels,  Kuropa  and  Stel- 
la <fOro.  Ferrara  is  noticeable  as  being 
the  place  where  the  notorious  Lucretia  Bor- 
gia, wife  of  the  Duke  of  Ferrara,  breathed 
her  last,  and  where  resided  also  the  cele- 
brated poets  Tasso  and  Ariosto,  and  the 
great  painters  Titian,  Lorenzo  Costa,  and 
BenvenutoTisio.  One  ofthe  principal  edi- 
fices is  the  Palace,  a  very  ancient  build- 
ing, mentioned  by  Byron  in  his  "  Purisina." 
The  custodian,  among  other  dungeons, 
points  out  the  one  at  the  base  of  the 
"Lion's  Tower,"  where  Nicholas  III. 
(Azzo)  caused  to  be  executed  (by  behead- 
ing) his  wife,  "  Parisini,"  and  his  own 
natural  son,  Hugo,  her  paramour. 

The  Sala  de  Giganti  contains  some  fine 
frescoes  by  Dosso  Dossi. 

There  is  also  the  Palazzo  Villa,  in  which 
are  many  celebrated  paintings,  open  from 
9  to  3 — catalogue,  ^  fr. ;  the  Studio  Publico, 
containing  a  library  of  100,000  volumes 
and  many  MSS. ;  and  the  house  of  Ariosto. 

The  Cathedral  ofS.  Paolo  dates  from  the 
12th  century.  It  has  a  fine  facade,  with 
three  scries  of  arches.  The  fine  interior 
ha*  been  restored,  and  contains  some  good 
pictures,  among  which  St.  Peter,  by  Garo- 
falo,  and  the  martyrdom  of  St.  Lawrence, 
807 


FEKKAKA. 


[ITALY.] 


NERVI. 


by  Guercino.  Adjoining  the  Cathedral 
stands  the  Campanile,  erected  about  the 
middle  of  the  IGth  century. 

The  other  churches  of  Ferrara  are  S. 
Francesco,  erected  in  1500.  It  is  covered 
with  domes.  The  interior  is  surrounded 
hy  chapels,  and  contains  some  good  pict- 
ures and  frescoes. 

S.  Domenico.  —  The  facade  is  decorated 
in  good  taste  with  statues,  and  the  inside 
•with  frescoes. 

S.  Maria  in  Vado  is  surmounted  by  a 
dome,  and  possesses  some  good  pictures. 
This  is  the  oldest  church  in  Ferrara. 

S.  Benedetto  and  S.  Paolo  have  both 
some  paintings. 

The  house  of  Ariosto  is  No.  67  Via  dell' 
Ariosto.  His  monument,  which  formerly 
stood  in  the  church  of  S.  Benedetto,  is  now 
in  the  Library. 

The  Hospital  of  St.  Anna  contains  the 
dungeon  where  Tasso  was  confined  for 
seven  years  by  Alphonso  II.,  for  having 
conceived  a  passion  for  that  monarch's  sis- 
ter, the  Princess  Leonora.  Among  the 
names  written  on  the  walls  is  that  of 
Byron. 

The  line  from  Ferrara  to  Bologna  trav- 
erses flat,  well-cultivated  land,  when  the 
station  San  Giorgio  is  reached,  five  miles 
from  which  stands  the  town  of  Cento,  the 
birthplace  of  Guercino.  The  town  contains 
many  specimens  of  his  talent,  and  his 
house  is  shown  to  visitors. 

Bologna.    See  Route  No.  215. 


treble  the  expense,  may  be  found  by  in- 
quiring of  your  hotel  proprietor. 

A  steamer  leaves  Genoa  Tuesday,  Thurs- 
day, and  Sunday,  at  8  P.M. ;  and  returns 
Monday, Wednesday, and  Friday,  at  9  A.M.; 
fare,  27  fr.  50  c. 

Pegli. — Grand  Hotel  Pfgli. 

For  notice  of  this  and  other  towns  on 
this  route,  see  Index,  "Passes  into  Italy." 

The  principal  town  on  the  route — San 
Remo — has  lately  been  rising  high  in  pub- 
lic estimation,  and  probably  at  some  future 
day  will  vie  with  Nice. 

Hotel  de  Londres.  The  Circolo  Interna- 
zionale  possesses  reading-rooms,  ball  and 
concert  rooms.  It  has  good  physicians. 

Carriages,  by  the  course,  one  horse,  80  c. ; 
two  horses,  1  fr.  40  c. ;  per  hour,  one  horse, 
1  fr.  50  c. ;  two  horses,  2  fr.  50  c. 

The  surroundings  of  San  Remo  are 
charming,  and  the  walks  and  excursions 
everything  that  can  be  desired. 

Bordighera. — Hotel  Bordighera,  one  of 
the  best  houses  on  the  Riviere,  admirably 
managed  by  Mr.  Angst  (Swiss).  The  cli- 
mate of  Bordighera  is  lovely — mild,  but 
more  bracing  than  Mentone  or  San  Remo. 
It  is  situated  on  a  hill  projecting  into  the 
sea  and  surrounded  by  palm-trees.  It  is  a 
favorite  resort  for  invalids,  many  of  whom 
spend  the  whole  winter  there. 

Vintimiglia  is  the  frontier  French  town 
where  the  baggage  is  examined. 

For  description  of  the  remaining  towns, 
see  Route  No.  124,  France, 


ROUTE  No.  213. 

Genoa  to  Nice,  via  the  Riviera.  Time, 
6  h.  43  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  21  fr.  55  c. ; 
second  class,  15  fr.  25  c.  Since  the  rail- 
way has  been  finished  over  the  beautiful 
Riviere  de  Ponente,  once  so  famous  in  the 
history  of  posting,  few  travel  by  carriage  ; 
some  will  probably  still  prefer  the  road 
along  the  Corniclie.  The  portion  nearest 
Nice  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  drives 
in  France  or  Italy.  Carriages,  for  those 
who  prefer  three  or  four  days'  time,  with 
808 


ROUTE  No.  214. 

Genoa  to  Fl>rence,  via  Spezia  and  Pisa. 
Time,  6  h.  43  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  26  fr. 
80  c. ;  second  class,  19  fr.  40  c. 

Passing  several  unimportant  stations, 
and  through  numerous  tunnels,  the  town 
of  Nervi  is  reached — a  delightful  winter 
residence,  in  the  midst  of  lemon  and  or- 
ange groves.  Grand  Hotel  and  Pension 
Anglaise,  a  fine  winter  pension  residence, 
managed  by  Mr.  Engel,  also  proprietor  of 
the  Hotel  de  la  Ville  at  Genoa. 


CHIAVARI. 


[ITALY.] 


PISA. 


Chiaoari  (hotel,  Ftnice),  situated  in  a 
charming  position  on  the  shore  of  the 
Mediterranean;  delightful  climate.  It  pos- 
sesses numerous  silk  manufactories. 

Spezii,  the  Portus  Lunte  of  the  Komans, ' 
the  site  of  which  may  be  seen  by  the  ruins 
of  an  ancient  amphitheatre  and  circus.  | 
It  contains  11,200  inhabitants.  The  mod- 
ern t-iu-n.  which  is  much  frequented  for 
si-a-bathing,  is  r-ituated  on  a  beautiful  bay 
with  a  magnilicent  harbor,  the  frequent; 
resort  of  Italian  and  other  vessels  of  war.  | 
Several  United  States  vessels  of  war  usu- 
ally harbor  here  several  months  each  win- 
ter. Unless  some  important  movement  is 
going  on,  thev  vary  the  winter  between 
this  place  and  Nice  (Villafranca).  Prin- 
cipal hotels,  Critce  di  Malta  and  I'ille  de 
Mi'-m.  The  island  of  Palmaria,  opposite 
the  town,  is  used  as  a  penal  establishment 
for  brigands.  The  climate  here  is  mild 
and  balmy,  and  excursions  are  numerous. 
An  excursion  should  be  made  by  boat  or 
carriage  (boat  with  two  rowers,  10  fr.  ; 
carriage  and  horses,  10  fr.)  to  Porto  Venere, 
on  the  west  side  of  the  bay.  From  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  church  of  S.  Pietro, 
built  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  of 
Venus,  a  most  glorious  view  may  be  had, 
if  there  about  sunset. 

The  next  important  station  is  Sarzana, 
the  birthplace  of  Pope  Nicholas  V.,  and 
near  which  (Lunigiana)  the  Bonap:irte  fam- 
ily resided  before  their  settlement  in  Cor- 
sica. From  Ave  za,  the  next  town,  a 
branch  railway  leads  to  the  celebrated 
Carrara  marble  quarries,  which  will  well 
repay  a  visit,  occupying  two  hours.  Time, 
12  minutes.  Guides  demand  5  francs  for 
their  services,  and  can  not  well  be  dispensed 
with.  About  6500  quarrymen  are  at  work 
at  the  present  time  (1876).  The  masses  of 
marble  are  hauled  out  by  oxen  after  they 
have  been  blasted.  The  mines  of  M.  Sngro 
and  .\fonte  Crestola  yield  the  nmrmo  st/itu- 
ario  (that  used  for  statues),  which  is  the 
best  kind.  The  quarrymen  quit  work  at  3 
P.M..  consequently  the  mines  ought  to  be 
visited  before  that  hour.  A  horn  is  blown 
when  a  blast  is  about  to  occur. 

Some  of  the  studios  in  the  town  should 
be  visited.  Franci  and  Lnzzerini  have  gen- 
erally some  fine  subjects  finished. 

The  Academia  delle  Belle  Arti  possesses 
some  good  specimens  of  Carrara  artists. 

The  Piazza,  contains  a  fine  monument  of 


the  Grand-Duchess  Maria  Beatrice,  heroic 
size,  erected  in  1861. 

Massa  (hotel,  /our  Nations'),  contain- 
ing 10,500  inhabitants,  was  formerly  the 
capital  of  Massa-Carrara.  It  contains  a 
palace  which  was  formerly  the  residence 
of  the  Princess  Baccocchi,  a  sister  of  Na- 
poleon I. 

Pieira  Santa  is  an  ancient  fortified  town, 
delightfully  situated.  It  was  besieged  and 
captured  in  1842  by  Lorenzo  de'  Medici. 
It  contains  a  campanile  and  two  or  three 
churches. 

There  is  a  carriage-road  from  here  to  the 
baths  and  town  of  Lucca. 

Viareggio,  a  small  sea-bathing  village, 
is  passed,  and 

Pisa  is  reached.  Every  traveler  should 
stop  here.  Hotel  Victoria  el  de  FArno,  be- 
tween the  station  and  the  monuments. 

The  ancient  and  much  decayed  city  of 
Pisa  contains  50,331  inhabitants  (1876).  It 
is  principally  situated  on  the  north  bank  of 
the  Arno,  five  miles  from  its  mouth.  It 
was  "formerly  the  capital  of  one  of  Italy's 
most  celebrated  republics ;  in  the  13th  cen- 
tury it  had  a  population  of  150,000.  It  was 
then  very  prosperous,  and  celebrated  for 
the  strength  of  its  fortifications,  and  for  its 
profusion  of  magnificent  marble  edifices. 
It  still  boasts  of  some  fine  marble  build- 
ings, and  one  of  the  noblest  bridges  in  Eu- 
rope. In  the  time  of  Strabo,  Pisa  became 
a  Roman  colony,  and  it  was  an  important 
naval  station.  It,  however,  attained  its 
great  distinction  in  the  10th  century,  when 
it  took  the  lead  among  the  commercial  re- 
publics of  Italy.  The  climate  is  mild  dur- 
ing the  winter.  It  was  not  for  a  long  time 
considered  healthy,  owing  to  the  impurity 
of  the  water  of  the  Arno ;  but  after  the 
watercourse  was  formed  from  the  Valle  di 
Asciano,  this  inconvenience  seemed  greatly 
relieved.  The  lower  classes  prefer  begging 
to  working,  and,  as  in  many  other  cities  of 
Itily,  are  very  annoying. 


In  a  large  square  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  city  are  the  four  principal  attractions 
of  Pisa :  the  Cathedral,  Baptistery,  Lean- 
MB 


PISA. 


[ITALY.] 


PISA. 


ing  Tower,  and  Campo  Santo ;  consequent- 
ly, two  or  three  hours  will  afford  the  trav- 
eler sufficient  time  to  visit  these  celebrated 
places. 

The  Cathedral  is  an  interesting  specimen 
of  the  style  of  architecture  which  prevail- 
ed in  the  llth  century.  It  is  built  in  the 
form  of  a  Latin  cross,  and  is  300  feet  long, 
107  feet  wide,  and  its  front  is  1'20  feet  in 
height ;  69  columns  of  Corinthian  archi- 
tecture divide  the  aisles;  the  cupola  is 
supported  by  four  piers  rising  from  the 
centre  of  the  building.  The  tine  appear- 
ance of  the  exterior  is  greatly  increased  by 
the  white  marble  platform,  with  steps,  by 
which  it  is  surrounded.  The  middle  of  the 
three  magnificent  bronze  doors,  executed 
by  Giovanni  di  Bologna,  represents  the 
history  of  the  Virgin  from  the  time  of  her 
birth.  The  drum  of  the  cupola  is  decorated 
on  the  outside  with  an  immense  number 
of  columns,  connected  by  arches,  and  the 
general  appearance  is  that  of  a  crown.  At 
the  time  the  building  suffered  from  fire, 
the  roof  of  the  nave  fell,  and  injured  many 
objects  of  interest  contained  in  the  church. 
The  only  portion  of  the  pulpit,  which  was 
the  masterpiece  of  Giovanni  di  Pisa,  that 
was  saved,  were  the  statues  that  now  dec- 
orate the  present  one.  The  twelve  altars 
were  designed  by  Michael  Angelo. 

The  Chapel  of  SS.  Sacramento.  —  This 
chapel  contains  an  altar,  cased  in  chased 
work  of  silver,  the  gift  of  Cosimo  III. ; 
the  silver  is  supposed  to  have  cost  3G,000 
crowns. 

The  High- Altar  of  the  Cathedral  is  of 
immense  size,  and  elaborately  ornamented. 
The  paintings  possess  much  merit.  The 
Madonna  dell'  Orgagna  is  a  precious  one, 
and  is  kept  locked ;  it  can  be  seen  only  I  >y 
special  permission.  It  is  of  Greek  origin, 
and  very  old.  Here,  also,  are  some  of  the 
best  works  of  Andrea  del  Sarto,  the  prin- 
cipal of  which  is  his  St.  Agnes,  which 
hangs  between  the  nave  and  cupola.  No- 
tice also  his  last  painting,  over  the  altar 
of  the  Madonna  dclle  Grazie,  in  the  south- 
ern transept.  He  died  before  it  was  com- 
pleted, and  Sagliana  finished  it.  Observe 
on  either  side  of  the  deans'  stalls  the  fig- 
ures of  the  four  saints,  St.  Peter,  St.  John, 
St.  Catharine,  and  St.  Margaret.  One  of 
the  best  p-iintings  licre  is  that  of  Cristofnro 
Allori,  of  the  Virgin  in  glory  surrounded 
by  saints  and  angels.  Passignano's  Tri- 
810 


i  umph  of  the  Martyrs  is  also  very  fine. 
Notice  above  the  high-altar  Giovanni  di 
Bologna's  figure  of  the  Saviour  on  the  cross, 
which  is  very  fine.  The  picture  behind 
the  altar  of  Abraham  and  Isaac  is  also 
quite  celebrated. 

There  are  but  few  tombs  now  remaining 
in  the  Duomo,  most  of  them  having  been 
removed  to  the  Campo  Santo.  In  the  urn 
of  serpentine,  near  the  altar,  in  the  rich 
chapel  of  St.  Kanieri,  are  inclosed  the  bones 
I  of  St.  Kanieri,  the  protector  of  Pisa.  At 
the  end  of  the  nave  is  suspended  the  large 
bronze  lamp,  of  superior  workmanship,  the 
swinging  of  which  first  suggested  to  Gali- 
leo the  theory  of  the  pendulum  ;  he  was 
then  but  eighteen  years  old.  He  was  also 
the  inventor  of  the  telescope.  This  emi- 
nent discoverer  was  born  at  Florence  in 
]  564.  In  the  early  part  of  the  17th  century 
he  undertook  at  Kome  to  demonstrate  the 
(ruth  of  the  present  solar  system,  discover- 
ed by  Copernicus,  but  he  was  compelled 
|  by  the  Jesuits  to  abjure  the  facts  that  th« 
sun  stood  still,  and  that  the  earth  revolved 
round  the  sun.  They  declared  the  propo- 
sitions heretical,  and  contrary  to  the  ex- 
press word  of  God,  and  they  committed  his 
writings  to  the  flames.  After  his  release 
from  prison,  and  his  abjuration,  it  is  said 
that,  impelled  by  his  genius,  he  stamped 
his  feet  upon  the  earth,  and  exclaimed, 
"Ma  pur  si  ir.uove"  ("But  it  does  turn, 
after  all"). 

It  would  be  well,  while  visiting  the  Ca- 
thedral, to  try  and  shake  off  the  custodian 
for  a  few  moment.'- — pay  him  a  paul  in  ad- 
vance ;  he  hanys  on  to  you  with  fearful  te- 
nacity, and  his  description  of  the  pictures 
is  worse  than  that  of  the  crown  jewels  in 
the  Tower  of  London  was  a  few  years  ago. 
The  Baptistery,  situated  opposite  the  Ca- 
thedral, is  an  immense  building,  150  feet 
in  diameter,  and  1GO  in  height.  The  ex- 
terior is  principally  of  marble,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  cupola  and  cone,  upon  which 
is  placed  the  figure  of  St.  John  the  Baptist. 
The  whole  interior  of  this  edifice  is  very 
elaborately  ornamented.  The  principal 
feature,  however,  is  the  pulpit,  of  exqui- 
site workmanship,  designed  by  Nicolo  Pi- 
sano.  During  Holy  Week  officers  are 
provided  to  preserve  it  from  injury. 

The  Campanile,  or  leaning  Toicer,  is  very 
extraordinary,  not  from  its  great  beauty, 
but  by  its  inclination  from  the  perpendic- 


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PISA. 


[ITALY.] 


PISA. 


ular.  It  is  190  feet  in  height,  consisting 
of  eight  stories,  with  outside  galleries  pro- 
jecting about  seven  feet.  The  effect  to  a 
spectator  looking  down  from  the  top  is 
awfully  grand  and  terrific.  The  topmost 
story,  overhanging  the  base  on  one  side 
about  fifteen  feet,  is  perfectly  secure,  the 
centre  of  gravity  being  ten  feet  within  the 
base.  The  ascent  is  made  by  295  steps, 
and  the  view  from  the  top  is  extensive 
and  beautiful.  The  bells,  which  are  im- 
mensely heavy,  are  very  harmonious.  The 
proportions  of  the  tower  are  very  light  and 
elastic,  and  it  has  been  in  this  leaning  po- 
sit inn  for  over  six  centuries. 

The  Ccmpo  Santo. — This  cemetery,  from 
which  almost  every  other  place  of  inter- 
ment in  Ital}'  derives  its  name,  is  the  most 
interesting  of  the  four  Pisan  curiosities. 
It  is  said  the  difference  between  it  now  and 
formerly  is,  that li  the  dead  were  compelled 
to  pay  a  fee  on  entering  it ;  but,  as  they 
never  left  it,  of  course  nothing  more  could 
be  demanded  of  them  ;  now,  the  living  en- 
ter free,  but  are  compelled  to  pa}-  well  be- 
fore they  are  allowed  to  leave  it."  This 
'•  Museum  of  Tombs"  contains  many  very 
interesting  specimens  of  sepulchral  mon- 
uments, statues,  and  very  old  paintings. 
Among  the  most  important  sarcophagi  is 
that  containing  the  body  of  the  Countess 
Beatrice,  mother  of  the  Countess  Mathilde. 
Monuments  of  Antonio  di  San  I'ietro.  Hisli- 
op  Ricci,  Philip  Desco,Vacca  Berlinghieri, 
etc.,  are  all  interesting.  The  walls  are 
covered  with  frescoes  representing  Script- 
ure subjects  by  many  of  the  old  masters. 
One  of  these  frescoes  illustrates  the  process 
of  decomposing  bodies  by  means  of  acids 
at  the  time  when  this  was  used  for  a  burial- 
place.  The  earth  which  surrounds  this  ed- 
ifice was  brought  from  Jerusalem  in  fifty 
galleys  as  long  ago  as  l'22>i.  Many  of  the  j 
old  dilapidated  tombs  have  ancient  and  in- 
teresting epitaphs.  Campo  Santo  is  open 
daily;  knock  at  the  door  on  the  left  for 
the  custodian,  who  expects  1  franc  on 
leaving. 

The  church  of  Sta.  Culerina,  built  in 
Gothic  style,  was  formerly  attached  to  the 
Dominican  monastery  ;  many  of  the  orna- 
ments are  very  curious,  especially  the  bor- 
der of  heads  around  the  windows.  In  this 
church  is  the  monument  of  Simone  Salta- 
relli,  archbishop  of  Pisa,  who  died  in  1342. 
In  one  of  the  chapels  are  the  two  interest- 


!  ing  statues,  by  Nino  Pisano,  of  Faith  and 
Charity. 

The  church  of  Santa  Maria  delta.  Spina  is 
situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Arno, 
and  is  built  of  white  marble.     It  is  a  per- 
|  feet  specimen  of  architectural  beauty.     It 
was  built,  during  Pisa's  prosperous  times, 
for  the  sailors,  who,  before  taking  their  de- 
parture for  sea,  implored  herein  the  pro- 
tection of  the  Virgin.     Giovanni  Pisano's 
;  talent  contributed  greatly  in  adorning  this 
building. 

There  are  many  other  churches  besides 
those  which  we  have  mentioned  contain- 
ing relics  and  works  of  art. 

The  University  of  Pist  was  formerly 
among  the  most  celebrated  in  Italy ;  it  is 
still  at  the  head  of  educational  establish- 
ments in  Tuscany.  It  contained  at  an 
earlier  period  between  600 and  700 students, 
but  the  number  is  now  reduced  about  half. 
Many  illustrious  names  were  found  among 
the  professors,  including  those  of  Galileo, 
Redi,  Castelli,  Thomas  Dempster,  Malpi- 
ghi,  Gronovius,  etc.  The  Eotanicul  Garden 
attached  to  the  University  is  a  delightful 
spot,  and  strangers  may  enjoy  examining 
the  plants,  some  of  which  are  very  rare, 
such  as  palm-trees  and  magnolias  70  feet 
high.  Near  this  garden  is  the  Mut>.o  di 
Storia  Xaturale,  established  by  Ferdinand 
I.  in  15%.  It  has  been  greatly  enlarged 
during  the  past  few  years,  and  the  collec- 
tion now  is  one  of  the  most  complete  in  It- 
aly. Accademia  delle  Bel'e  Arti  was  found- 
ed by  Napoleon  in  1812.  The  paintings 
are  mostly  of  the  Pisan  and  early  Floren- 
tine schools. 

Pisa  has  some  fine  palaces  and  public 
buildings.  The  Palazzo  Lanfranchi,  on  the 
Arno.  is  from  the  design  of  Michael  An^e- 
lo.  It  was  for  a  long  time  the  residence  of 
Lord  Byron  ;  he  here  lived  openly  with  his 
mistress,  the  Countess  of  Guiccioli,  daugh- 
ter of  Count  Gamba,  after  the  count,  her 
husband,  had  obtained  a  divorce  from  the 
pope.  The  countess  was  a  most  1  e.iutiful 
woman,  '!'•>  years  of  age.  The  exqnUitc 
sonnet  prefixed  to  the  Prophecy  of  l>ant  • 
was  dedicated  to  her.  With  more  th;;ii 
the  poet's  usual  constancy,  he  remained 
faithful  to  her  for  three  years — at  which 
time  he  died.  The  countess  was  a  native 
of  l'i-a.  In  this  phee  he  wrote  "The 
Deformed  Transformed,"  the  tragedy  of 
"  Werner,"  and  a  portion  of  "  Don  Juan.'' 
811 


PISA. 


[ITALY.] 


PlACEXZA. 


In  the  Piazza  dei  Cavalieri,  where  the 
modern  clock-tower  now  stands,  was  for- 
merly the  location  of  the  Torre  della  Fame, 
so  celebrated  by  Dante. 

At  the  time  of  the  festival  of  San  Ranieri, 
which  is  celebrated  on  the  16th  and  17th 
of  June  every  third  year,  the  banks  of  the 
river  and  the  principal  streets  are  illumi- 
nated with  thousands  of  lamps.  It  attracts 
large  crowds,  and  is  really  a  most  interest- 
ing and  remarkable  sight. 

The  Baths  of  Pisa,  situated  about  three 
miles  from  the  city,  are  quite  celebrated 
for  the  medicinal  qualities  of  their  waters. 
They  are  much  frequented,  and  are  sup- 
posed to  be  the  same  alluded  to  by  Strabo 
and  Pliny. 

On  the  old  post-road  to  Leghorn  stands 
the  curious  old  church  of  San  Pietro  in 
Grado,  erected  previous  to  the  year  1000. 
It  is  said  that  St.  Peter  erected  a  church  on 
this  spot,  from  which  circumstance,  and  in 
memory  of  this  saint,  the  present  edifice 
owes  its  name. 

About  six  miles  east  of  Pisa  is  the  rich- 
ly decorated  building  called  the  Certosa,  in 
the  Valle  di  Calci.  On  the  peak  of  La 
Verucca,  above  the  Certosa,  are  the  ruins 
of  an  ancient  castle,  from  which  a  beauti- 
ful view  may  be  obtained,  which  will  fully 
repay  those  who  ascend  to  the  summit. 

The  Cascine,  or  large  farms  formerly  be- 
longing to  the  grand-duke,  are  three  miles 
from  Pisa ;  here  are  kept  over  1500  cows 
and  200  camels. 

Near  Pisa  is  the  small  watering-place  of 
Jl  Gombo,  commanding  beautiful  views. 
It  was  here  that  the  poet  Shelley  was 
drowned  (July  7,  1822) ;  Lord  Byron  had 
his  remains  burned,  and  his  heart  deposited 
in  the  Protestant  burying-ground  at  Rome. 

from  Pisa  to  Lucca.  Time,  40  minutes  ; 
fare,  first  class,  2  fr. 

From  Pisa  to  Florence,  via  L,ucca  and 
Pistoia.  Time,  4  h.  25  m. ;  fare,  first  class, 
9  fr.  70  c. ;  second  class,  7  fr.  85  c. 

From  Pisa  'to  Florence,  via  Empoli  (di- 
rect). Time,  2  h.  13  m. ;  fare,  first  class. 
8  fr.  60  c. ;  second  class,  5  fr.  90  c. 

From  Pisa  to  Leghorn.  Time,  30  min- 
utes; fare,  95  c. 

From  Pisa  to  R<me.  Time,  12  h.  21  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  38  fr.  70  c. ;  second  class, 
26  fr.  70  c. 

Empoli.     See  Route  No.  122. 

Florence.     See  Index. 
812 


ROUTE  No.  215. 

Milan  to  Florence,  via  Piucenza,  Parma, 
Modena,  Bol  gna,  and  Pistoia.  Time,  9  h. 
17  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  37  fr.  60  c. ;  second 
class,  26  fr.  55  c. 

The  first  place  of  interest  in  this  most 
important  route  is  the  station  Me'egnano, 
where  Francis  I.  of  France  completely 
slaughtered  the  Swiss  allies  in  his  cam- 
paign against  Milan  in  1515,  and  also  where 
the  French  defeated  the  Austrians,  June  7, 
1859. 

Lodi,  a  town  of  18,500  inhabitants,  made 
memorable  in  history  by  the  battle  of  Lodi, 
where  Napoleon  stormed  the  bridge  of 
Lodi,  which  crossed  the  Adda,  and  entered 
the  town,  May  10th,  1796.  The  town  was 
built  by  the  Emperor  Frederick  in  1158, 
and  fortified  in  1655.  In  1454  a  treaty  was 
concluded  here  which  united  all  the  Italian 
states  in  one  confederation. 

The  town  is  noted  for  its  Parmesan  and 
Stracchino  cheese. 

Piacenza  (French,  P.'aisance")  (hotels,  St. 
Mnrco  and  Croce  Binned)  contains  35,000 
inhabitants.  Nothing  special  to  see. 

Piacenza  was  founded  by  the  Romans 
200  years  before  Christ.  It  was  complete- 
ly sacked  by  the  Carthaginians  during  the 
second  Punic  War,  and,  after  numerous 
other  sieges  and  conflicts,  it  finally  passed 
during  the  Middle  Ages  to  the  house  of 
Farnese.  Sforza  at  one  time  reduced  its 
citizens  to  slavery,  and  sold  10,000  of  them 
into  bondage. 

The  Piazza  dei  Cavalli  is  the  principal 
place  in  the  town  :  it  is  finely  paved  with 
granite.  On  one  side  is  situated  the  Pa- 
lazza  del  Comune,  in  front  of  which  notice 
the  equestrian  statues  of  the  Dukes  Alex- 
ander and  Ranuccio  Farnese,  executed  by 
Mocchi,  a  pupil  of  John  of  Bologna.  Alex- 
ander was  the  same  duke  who  commanded 
the  armies  of  Philip  II.  in  the  Low  Coun- 
tries, and  took  Antwerp  in  1585. 

The  Duomo,  which  is  situated  at  the  ex- 


BOBGO  SAX  Doxixo. 


[ITALY.] 


PARMA. 


tremity  of  the  Contrada  Drilla,  is  the  prin- 
cipal church  of  Piacenza.  It  contains 
some  fine  frescoes  l>y  Caraeci.  Another 
church  is  the  Santa  Mnria  dl  C'ampagna,  by 
Bramante.  Although  in  a  very  damaged 
state,  the  beautiful  frescoes  of  Pordenone 
are  still  conspicuous. 

The  church  of  San  Sisto  is  the  richest  in 
the  town:  it  contains  several  fine  paint- 
ings. It  was  for  this  church  that  Raphael 
painted  his  celebrated  Madonna  San  Sisto, 
now  the  principal  gem  in  the  gallery  at 
Dresden.  It  was  sold  in  1753  to  the  King 
of  Poland  for  $40,000.  Notice  the  monu- 
ment to  Margaret  of  Austria,  daughter  of 
Charles  V.,  wife  of  Octavius  Farnese,  Duke 
of  Parma. 

The  railway  after  leaving  Piacenza  fol- 
lows the  old  Roman  road,  via  Emilia, 
which  connected  the  important  cities  of 
Parma,  Bologna,  and  Rimini  on  the  Adri- 
atic Sea,  and  arrives  at  the  village  of 

Borgo  San  Dotiino. — Hotel,  Croce  Bianco. 
'I  lie  ancient  name  of  the  town  -was  Fidfntia 
Julia,  but  since  the  martyrdom  of  St.  Do- 
minicus  it  has  borne  his  name.  The  cathe- 
dral was  dedicated  to  that  saint,  and  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  Italy. 

The  line  now  crosses  the  Tnroon  abridge 
of  20  arches,  erected  in  1816  by  the  Duch- 
ess Maria  Louisa,  empress  of  the  French. 

Parma  is  finely  situated  on  the  River 
Parma,  a  branch  of  the  Po ;  it  contains 
47,000  inhabitants.  Principal  hotel,  Al- 
bergo  delta  Posta.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
ancient  cities  of  Italy.  It  was  conquered 
by  the  Romans  123  years  before  the  Chris- 
tian era,  who  made  a  colony  of  it  under 
the  name  of  Colonia  Julia  Augusta  Parma. 
It  was  the  residence  of  the  Guelphs  during 
the  Middle  Ages ;  was  besieged  by  Em- 
peror Frederick  II.  in  1245.  It  was  for  a 
long  time  the  scene  of  violent  intestine 
wars  between  the  Visconti,  the  Delia  Scala, 
and  the  Terzi.  From  1545  to  1731  it  was 
the  residence  of  the  princes  of  the  house  of 
Farnese,  at  which  time  it  became  united  to 
Spain,  and  was  the  capital  of  the  duchy  of 
Parma.  From  1815  to  1847  it  was  ruled  by 
Maria  Louisa,  empress  of  France,  and  wife 
of  Napoleon  I.  Since  1859  Parma  has 
ceased  to  be  an  independent  duchy ;  that 
and  the  duchy  of  Modena,  as  well  as  Tus- 
cany, have  been  annexed  to  the  kingdom 
of  United  Italy. 

The  principal  object  of  interest  is  the 


Ducal  Palace,  which  contains  the  Academy 
of  Fine  Art.*,  Picture-gallery.  Library,  Mu- 
seum, Archives,  and  Farnese  theatre :  open 
daily  from  9  to  4,  and  on  fete-days  from  10 
to  2.  The  palace  contains  some  fine  pict- 
ures by  David — the  Toilette,  and  a  splen-  ' 
did  portrait  of  Maria  Louisa.  The  Pict- 
ure-gallery contains  four  of  Correggio's 
masterpieces.  The  principal  is  his  Ma- 
donna with  the  infant  Saviour,  St.  Made- 
leine, and  St.  Jerome ;  the  last  is  known  in 
Italy  under  the  name  of  II  Gioi-no,  "  The 
Day,"  in  contrast  to  his  masterpiece  in  the 
gallery  at  Dresden,  which  is  "  The  Night." 
The  entire  chamber  is  devoted  to  the  exhi- 
bition of  this  work,  which  is  mostly  called 
La  Madonna  di  S.  Girolum-).  His  others 
are  the  Madonna  della  Scodella,  or  the 
Flight  into  Egypt,  Descent  from  the  Cross, 
Bearing  the  Cro.<s,  and  his  Madonna  della 
Scala,  a  fresco  removed  entire  from  the 
church  of  St.  Michael :  this  last  is  in  the 
library.  The  gallery  contains  many  other 
valuable  paintings  by  Caraeci,  F.  Francia, 
and  Vandyke.  In  the  Sculpture-gallery 
there  are  several  valuable  antiques  found 
in  the  ruins  of  Velleia.  Among  the  mod- 
ern works  notice  a  bust  of  Maria  Louisa  by 
Canova.  The  Library  of  the  Academy  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  Europe :  it  contains 
140,00!)  volumes,  100,000  engravings,  and 
12,000  pieces  of  music.  It  also  contains 
some  most  valuable  relics,  such  as  a  manu- 
script of  Petrarch,  which  belonged  to  Fran- 
cis I. ;  a  Hebrew  Psalm-book,  with  notes 
by  Martin  Luther ;  a  copy  of  the  Koran, 
found  in  1683  by  the  Emperor  Leopold  I.  in 
the  tomb  of  the  Grand  Vizier  Kara  Mus- 
tapha  after  the  siege  of  Vienna ;  a  letter 
of  Dante,  etc.,  etc. 

The  f'arnese  Theatre  is  also  a  most  in- 
teresting object  attached  to  the  palace :  it 
is  now  in  ruins  as  far  as  the  boxes  and 
decorations  go,  having  been  built  nearly 
250  years  ago.  It  was  capable  of  holding 
8000  people.  It  was  the  scene  of  the  most 
superb  spectacles  produced  in  Itaty  for 
over  100  years.  It  was  erected  by  Ranuce 
Farnese  I.  in  1618,  and  took  ten  years  to 
build.  It  is  over  1000  feet  long  "and  100 
wide  :  the  Corinthian  columns  which  dec- 
orate the  proscenium  IHJXCS  are  65  feet 
high.  The  architect  of  this  superb  struc- 
ture was  Aleotti.  Fee,  1  franc. 

In  the  Museum  there  are   now  20,000 
medals,  found  in  the  ruins  of  Velleia. 
813 


PARMA. 


[ITALY.] 


MODENA. 


The  Cathedral,  or  Duomo,  is  the  princi- 
pal religious  edifice  of  Parma;  it  is  very 
ancient,  having  been  commenced  in  the  be- 
ginning of  the  12th  century.  It  is  princi- 
pally visited  by  strangers  on  account  of  the 
frescoes  of  the  cupola,  which  were  executed 
l>y  Correggio,  and  were  the  last  works  of 
that  celebrated  artist,  done  between  the 
years  1522  and  1530.  Notice  in  the  chapel 
of  St.  Agatha  the  monument  erected  to  the 
memory  of  Petrarch,  who  was  archdeacon 
of  this  church.  The  third  chapel  on  the  • 
right  contains  a  fine  bas-relief  represent- 
ing a  Descent  from  the  Cross.  The  Ca- 
thedral should  be  visited  as  near  noon  as 
possible,  to  obtain  all  the  advantages  of 
light. 

The  church  of  S.  Giovanni  Evunyelista  is 
a  small  church,  but  in  remarkable  fine 
taste.  The  cupola  was  painted  by  Cor- 
reggio, as  well  as  numerous  other  frescoes 
therein.  Attached  to  the  chapel  is  a  con- 
vent belonging  to  the  Benedictine  order. 
It  was  from  this  church  that  the  celebrated 
fresco,  the  "Coronation  of  the  Virgin," 
by  Correggio,  which  is  in  the  library,  was 
taken.  The  convent  has  been  the  refuge 
of  numerous  illustrious  persons,  among  oth- 
ers Charles  Emmanuel  of  Sardinia,  the  popes 
Pius  VI.  and  VII.  Notice  in  the  church, 
over  a  small  door  in  the  left  transept,  a 
painting  of  St.  John  by  Correggio. 

The  Madonna  della  'steccatla,  built  in  the 
16th  century,  after  the  model  of  St.  Peter's 
at  Rome,  is  finely  frescoed  by  Parmeggi- 
anino  and  Anselmi.  Notice  Moses  break- 
ing the  Tables  of  the  Law  and  the  Adam 
and  Eve,  also  the  monuments  of  1,'ossi  and 
Sforca.  In  the  crypt  the  tomb  of  Alexan- 
der Farnese  may  be  seen. 

Attached  to  the  church  of  San  Lodovico, 
a  building  of  little  merit,  formerly  the  Con- 
vent of  St.  Paul,  is  the  Camera  di  San  Paolo, 
which  was  formerly  the  parlor  of  the  ab- 
bess. It  was  decorated  in  beautiful  fres- 
coes by  Correggio,  by  order  of  the  abbess, 
in  1519,  for  which  my  lad}'  1ms  received  no 
small  censure  by  different  writers,  one  of 
whom  says  that  these  nude  mythological 
figures  pertain  more  to  the  house  of  a  for- 
mer citizen  of  Herculaneum  or  Pompeii 
than  to  the  parlor  of  an  abbess.  The  ceil- 
ing is  decorated  with  emblems  of  the  chase, 
cupids,  the  Graces,  Fortune,  Adonis,  Di- 
ana, etc.  The  room  should  be  visited  as 
near  noon  as  possible :  remain  in  it  some 
814 


little  while  to  allow  your  eyes  time  to  be- 
come accustomed  to  the  gloom. 

Visit  the  Palazzn  del  Giordano,  or  Pal- 
ace of  the  Garden,  founded  by  Octavius  Far- 
nese. At  the  foot  of  the  terrace  is  the  plain 
where  De  Coigny  gained  a  victory  over  the 
Austrians  in  1733. 

The  principal  promenade  is  the  Stra- 
done,  a  large  boulevard  between  the  cita- 
del and  the  botanical  garden,  which,  dur- 
ing fine  weather,  is  the  rendezvous  of  prom- 
enaders  and  elegant  equipages. 

Carriages  to  and  from  the  station,  1 
fr. ;  two  horses,  1  fr.  60  c. 

From  Parma  to  Reggio.  Time,  35  min- 
utes. (Don't  depend  too  much  on  official 
railway  guides  in  regard  to  the  starting  of 
trains  from  this  point.  The  time  is  fre- 
quently changed.) 

Reggio  is  an  ancient  well-built  town  con- 
taining 21,750  inhabitants.  Hotel,  Posta. 
The  streets  are  mostly  like  those  of  Padua 
and  Bologna — wide,  with  arcades.  There 
is  nothing  of  importance  to  be  seen  ;  the 
usual  number  of  churches  and  monuments, 
but  no  galleries. 

The  Cathedral  dates  from  the  loth  cen- 
tury. Its  fa9ade,  like  that  of  most  church- 
es in  Italy,  is  only  partially  finished.  At 
the  entrance  are  colossal  statues  of  Adam 
and  Eve,  by  Cleme/iti,  a  pupil  of  Michael 
Angelo.  The  interior  contains  some  mon- 
uments and  statues  by  the  same  master. 

The  Madonna  della  Ghiara,  erected  in 
the  15th  century.  Its  nave  is  decorated 
with  frescoes  by  Luca  Ferrari,  a  pupil  of 
Guido.  The  altar-piece  is  by  Guercino, 
back  of  which  are  frescoes  by  Carlo  Ca- 
liari. 

The  Madonna  delle  Concezione  is  a  fine 
modern  church. 

The  Teatro  is  also  modern  and  very  fine. 

The  Muse'im  contains  a  good  collection 
of  natural  history. 

General  Cialdini  was  a  native  of  Reggio. 
His  bust  stands  in  front  of  the  Municipio. 

Mmli-na.  former  capital  of  the  duchy  of 
Modena,  but  at  present,  with  the  other 
duchies,  embodied  in  the  kingdom  nf  Italy. 
Principal  hotel,  Albergo  Reale.  The  town 
is  situated  in  a  fertile  plain  between  the 
Panaro  and  Secchia,  and  contains  34,200 
inhabitants  (1876).  Unless  one  has  con- 
siderable time  to  spare,  the  sights  of  Mode- 
na will  hardly  compensate  his  stopping 
here.  The  principal  building  is  the  Ducal- 


BOLOGNA. 


[ITALY.] 


BOLOGNA. 


I'liltcc.  which  is  quite  extensive,  and  out  | 
of  proportion  to  the  former  size  of  the  state. 
The  apartments  are  large  and  magnificent, 
and  contain  a  Picture-gallery,  open  daily 
from  U  to  3;  entrance  at  the  back  of  the 
palace  ;  catalogues.  :>  francs.  Tl>e  Library 
contains  '.'O.iMn)  volumes  and  numerous 
ITC  -ions  MSS.,  among  others  one  of  Dante, 
with  his  miniature.  The  Cathedral  dates 
back  to  the  llth  century.  The  architect 
was  VHlafrunca.  It  was  commenced  under 
[  the  direction  of  the  ( 'ountess  Matbilde,  and 
contains  numerous  paintings. 

The  Cumpimi'e,  or  Ghirlandina,  was 
erected  in  the  13th  century:  it  is  one  of 
the  highest  in  Northern  Italy,  measuring 
345  feet.  It  received  its  name  on  account 
of  the  garland  of  (lowers  in  bronze  on  the 
MI  m  m  it  of  the  weathercock.  It  is  slightly 
inclined  from  the  perpendicular,  leaning 
toward  the  choir  of  the  cathedral.  The 
former  ducal  garden  forms  the  principal 
promenade  for  the  citizens. 

S.  Pielro  is  a  large  church  at  the  south- 
ern end  of  the  town.  In  one  of  the  chapels 
to  the  right  is  a  dead  Christ  in  terra-cotta, 
by  Begnrelli,  and  a  Madonna  and  Child  in 
the  transept  by  the  same  artist. 

S.Agnslino  and  S. Francesco  are  the  other 
principal  churches. 

The  Lapidary  Museum  contains  numer- 
ous Egyptian  and  other  relics,  consisting 
of  sarcophagi,  ancient  inscriptions,  etc. 

The  Public  Gardens  were  formerly  the 
gardens  of  the  palace. 

The  town  of  I'ir/nola  is  situated  12  miles 
southeast  of  Modena.  It  commands  a 
splendid  prospect,  and  was  the  birthplace 
of  the  celebrated  M'inttori. 

Southwest  of  Modena  stands  the  town  of 
Stissw.ilo,  with  a  line  ducal  villa  and  hand- 
some gardens. 

Bologna,  one  of  the  most  ancient  and 
important  cities  of  Italy,  is  finely  situ- 
ated at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines,  between 
the  rivers  Reno,  Aposa,  and  Savena.  Pop- 
ulation, 110,000.  Principal  hotel,  Grand 
Until  JBrttn,  a  very  good  establishment. 
The  city  was  founded  by  the  Ktruscans, 
and  was  conquered  by  the  Romans  190  j 
years  before  Christ;  it  was  declared  a  free 
city  by  Charlemagne,  and  became  rich 
and  powerful  by  its  commerce ;  was  the 
scene  of  the  most  sanguinary  intestine 
quarrels  between  the  Guelphs  and  Ghib-v 
Hnes.  In  conjunction  with  the  Pope,  it 


took  the  part  of  the  Guelphs  against  the 
Emperor  Frederick  II.,  took  his  son,  King 
Enzio,  prisoner  at  the  bloody  battle  of  Fos- 
sata,  and  kept  him  in  custody  until  his 
death  twenty-two  years  after.  Is  was  the 
scene  of  the  interview  between  Pope  Leo 
X.  and  Francis  II.  of  France  in  1515,  and 
between  Clement  VII.  and  Charles  V.  hi 
1530  and  l.r>32.  In  1547  the  celebrated 
Council  of  Trent  assembled  here.  In  179G 
it  was  incorporated  by  France  in  the  Cis- 
alpine republic,  and  in  1815  was  attached 
to  the  States  of  the  Church,  and  in  1859  to 
the  kingdom  of  Italy. 

Bologna  has  borne  a  most  conspicuous 
part  in  the  world  of  arts  and  letters.  Its 
school  of  painters  numbers  such  artists 
as  the  two  Caraccis,  Domenichino,  whom 
I'nu-sin  regarded  as  the  greatest  painter 
after  Raphael ;  Guido  Rene,  one  of  the  most 
brilliant  painters  of  Italy :  Guercina,  Al- 
bana,  and  Lanfranca ;  with  such  later  stars 
as  Pasinelli,  who  sought  to  unite  the  beau- 
tiful designs  of  Raphael  with  the  brilliant 
coloring  of  Paul  Veronese,  and  Carlo  Cig- 
nani,  who  sought  to  associate  the  grace  of 
Corri'ggio  with  the  science  of  Annihale 
Caracci.  In  1119  Bologna  founded  her 
•-•/fy,  the  most  ancient  and  celebra- 
ted in  the  world.  As  early  as  121G  its  pu- 
pils amounted  to  10,000.  Irnerius,  who 
here  taught  jurisprudence,  was  renowned 
throughout  the  world.  Medicine,  theolo- 
gy, and  philosophy  were  also  taught.  Some 
of  the  most  famous  doctors  were  females. 
Among  those  were  Madame  Manzolina, 
Laura  Bassi.  Clotilde  Tambroni  (a  Greek), 
and  Novell  i  d' Andrea  :  this  last  was  so 
beautiful  that  she  was  obliged  to  hide  her- 
self behind  a  curtain  during  her  lectures, 
that  she  might  not  distract  the  attention 
of  her  pupils  by  her  beauty.  It  was  at 
Bologna  that  the  anatomy  of  the  human 
figure  was  first  taught,  and  here,  in  178!), 
galvanism  was  first  discovered  by  Joseph 
Galvani. 

Archiginnasio  Antico  was  formerly   the 
old  University  ;  it  is  now  used  as  tl 
Knteca  Comunnle:  open  daily  from  10  to  4. 
The  works  of  art  and  antiquities  were  re- 
moved in  1832  to  the  Museo  Civico,  close  by. 

The  outside  view  of  Bologna  is  very 
fine;  its  numerous  churches  l:!()  in  num- 
ber), convents  (2(0,  arid  p.u.iee-.  its  pecul- 
iar towers  and  high  arcades,  give  it  a  very 
singular  and  interesting  appearance. 
815 


BOLOGNA. 


[ITALY.] 


BOLOGNA. 


The  principal  building  is  the  Church  of 
St.  Petronius,  which  is  the  finest  in  the  citj'. 
It  was  commenced  in  1390,  and  is  built  in 
the  Tuscan-Gothic  style.  Had  it  been 
built  according  to  the  original  plans  of  Vi- 
cenzi  it  would  have  been  the  longest  in  the 
world,  viz.,  644  feet  (see  the  plans  and  mod- 
els in  the  sacristy).  As  it  now  is,  it  is  only 
380  feet  long  and  156  wide.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  chapels,  which  are  the  most 
remarkable  part  of  the  building ;  most  of 
them  were  magnificently  frescoed,  but  are 
now  much  faded.  Notice  in  one  of  the 
chapels  on  the  left  as  you  enter  (Bacciochi) 
the  monuments  of  Elisa  Bonaparte,  her 
husband,  and  four  children  :  they  are  the 
work  of  the  two  Franzoni,  and  are  of  the 
purest  white  marble.  The  altar-piece  is 
by  Costa — a  Madonna  on  the  Throne  sur- 
rounded by  saints.  Notice  some  very  cu- 
rious frescoes  in  the  second  chapel  on  the 
light.  On  the  floor  of  the  church  may  be 
seen  the  meridional  line  traced  by  the  as- 
tronomer Cassini  in  1653.  On  the  24th 
day  of  February,  1530,  Pope  Clement  VII. 
crowned  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  under  the 
canopy  of  the  choir.  This  was  the  last 
German  emperor  crowned  in  Italy.  No- 
tice, while  examining  the  models  of  the 
church,  the  bas-reliefs  by  Proporzia  di  Ros- 
si. This  beautiful  and  most  remarkable 
young  woman,  who  was  equally  proficient 
as  an  engraver,  sculptor,  musician,  and 
painter,  was  celebrated  for  her  attachment 
to  a  voung  man  named  Malvasia,  who  for 
a  long  time  was  indifferent  to  her  love  (al- 
though in  the  end  he  did  succumb).  In 
her  representation  of  Joseph  and  Potiphar's 
wife,  she  carved  her  own  portrait  to  repre- 
sent the  latter  and  her  lover  that  of  Jo- 
seph. 

The  second  chapel  on  the  left  as  you  en- 
ter contains  a  golden  safe  let  into  the  wall 
over  the  altar :  it  contains  the  head  of  St. 
Petronius,  the  patron  saint  of  the  city. 

Next  in  importance  to  St.  Petronius  is 
the  Church  of  St.  Dominico,  founded  by  that 
saint  in  the  12th  century.  St.  Dominico 
was  l.orn  in  Castile,  Spain,  in  1170,  and  lie- 
came  the  founder  of  the  celebrated  order 
of  monks  called  the  Dominicans  :  he  lived 
for  a  long  time  in  the  convent  attached  to 
this  church.  In  the  chapel  of  St.  Domin- 
ico is  his  tomb,  surmounted  with  a  cupola, 
and  decorated  with  bas-reliefs,  represent- 
ing scenes  in  the  life  of  that  saint,  by  Pia- 
816 


1  sano.  A  small  kneeling  angel  of  white 
marble,  to  the  left  of  the  altar,  is  by  Mi- 
chael  Angelo.  This  tomb  is  considered 
one  of  the  finest  works  of  the  13th  century. 
Opposite  to  this  is  the  Chapel  ofth>  R  - 
sary,  which  is  ornamented  with  frescoes 
by  Guido  and  Caracci.  Notice  on  the  left 

.  St.  Dominico  burning  the  Books  of  the 
Heretics.  In  this  chapel  is  the  tomb  of 
Guido  Reni.  The  ceiling  of  the  dome  over 
the  high  -  altar  was  frescoed  by  Michael 
Angelo.  Notice  in  the  left  transept  the 
preserved  body  of  Serophini  Coppone,  who 

]  died  400  years  ago :  without  the  swath- 
ing of  the  Egyptian  mummies,  it  has  been 
kept  in  a  much  better  state  of  preserva- 
tion. 

San  Giacomo  Maggiore,  situated  in  the 
street  San  Donate,  near  the  tower  of  Asi- 
nellc.  was  founded  in  1267,  and  restored  in 
1862.  The  pictures  contained  in  the  dif- 
ferent chapels  are  very  fine.  The  Madon- 
na in  the  chapel  of  the  Bentivola  family  is 
considered  the  masterpiece  of  Francesco 
Fr.aicia. 

The  Cathedral  Church  of  St.  Pietro,  com- 
menced in  1605,  contains  but  a  single  nave. 
The  picture  of  the  Annunciation,  over  the 
high  -  altar,  is  the  last  work  of  Louis  Ca- 
racci. 
Accademia  delle  Belle  Arti,  containing 

one  of  the  finest  picture-galleries  in  Italy, 
is  situated  in  the  northeastern  part  of 
the  city.  Open  daily  from  9  to  3;  vis- 
itors ring  the  bell.  Catalogue,  1£  francs. 
In  addition  to  the  gallery  of  paintings,  it 
contains  the  Arsenal,  where  quantities  of 
arms  captured  from  different  nations  are 
stored.  The  gallery  can  be  visited  every 
day.  It  comprises  eight  saloons.  The 
principal  gems  in  this  collection  are :  Ra- 
phael's St.  Cecilia  in  Ecstasies,  one  of  his 
masterpieces.  It  was  removed  to  Paris  by 
Napoleon  1..  but  returned  in  1815.  The 
Death  of  St.  Peter,  by  Domenichino.  Sam- 
son destroying  the  I'hi'istines,  by  Guido.  The 
Madonna  della  Piet£,  by  the  same  artist. 
The  Baptism  of  Christ,  by  Albano:  it  was 
from  this  picture  that  Domenichino  took 
his  ideas  for  his  masterpiece  at  Rome.  The 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Agnes,  by  Domenichino, 
for  a  long  time  the  principal  object  of  at- 
traction in  the  gallery  of  the  Louvre  at 
Paris.  The  Massacre  of  the  Innocents,  by 
Guido.  The  .)fadonna,  with  St.  Anyustine 
and  other  faints,  by  Francia.  The  Appari- 


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BOLOGNA. 


[ITALY.] 


BOLOGNA. 


tion  of  the  Sariour  to  Mary  Magdalen  un- 
der tlie  figure  of  a  gardener,  by  Calvert. 

In  the  Rtz-de-Cliaussie  may  be  seen  the 
pictures  of  the  living  artists  of  Bologna. 
The  studio  of  Baruzzi,  one  of  Italy's  br.-t 
sculptors,  should  be  visited  :  he  was  a  pu- 
pil of  Canova,  and  his  Venuses  are  justly 
celebrated.  Also  that  of  Orfeo  Orfei,  one 
of  Bologna's  best  modern  painters.  Notice 
his  two  beautiful  pictures  in  the  "  Academia 
dell'  Arti,"  Dante  before  Caesar  Borgia, 
and  the  Music-lesson. 

The  Afuseo  Civico  (Italian,  Etruscan, 
Eyyptian,  Roman,  and  Greek  antiquities) 
should  be  visited ;  library  of  200,000  vols. 
The  great  savan,  Joseph  Mezzofanti,  who 
was  born  at  Bologna  in  1776,  was  formerly 
librarian  here.  He  was  made  a  cardinal  by 
Pope  Gregory  XVI.  At  the  age  of  36  he 
spoke  fluently  18  languages,  and  at  his 
death  42.  The  rooms  in  which  the  library 
is  contained  are  18  in  number,  all  connect-, 
ed,  the  entire  length  of  which  is  COO  feet, 
to  which  are  added  four  more,  containing 
Egyptian  curiosities  and  a  large  number 
of  most  curious  relics  lately  excavated  at 
the  Campo  Santo  (1870),  consisting  of  per- 
fect skeletons  in  every  possible  position, 
and  excavated  just  as  they  were  found, 
one  belonging  to  a  giant  seven  feet  high. 
Most  of  the  skeletons  are  3000  years  old  ; 
many  appear  as  if  their  owners  had  been 
buried  alive.  Utensils  containing  food 
were  found  near  them,  all  in  a  most  per- 
fect state.  Many  weapons  composed  of 
stone  have  also  been  excavated,  said  to  be 
6000  years  old.  The  excavations  are  still 
progressing,  and  promise  to  be  full  as  in- 
teresting as  those  of  Pompeii.  The  JEXnw- 
cim  collection  is  well  -  nigh  unique  ;  the 
vases  are  numerous  and  elegant  in  pattern. 

Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele  is  situated  in 
the  centre  of  the  town,  and  is  a  most  im- 
portant object  of  interest.  In  the  centre 
stands  the  celebrated  Fountain  by  Laureti. 
The  bronze  statue  of  Neptune  was  exe- 
cuted by  Giovanni  da  Bolognn.  It  weighs 
ten  tons,  and  cost  70,000  ducats.  This 
cost,  over  300  years  ago,  equals  half  a  mill- 
ion now. 

In  this  piazza  stands  the  Palazzo  Pub- 
lico,  which  dates  from  the  13th  centurv. 
Its  fa<;ade  is  adorned  with  a  Madonna  and 
a  bronze  statue  of  Pope  Gregory  XII. 
The  galleries  are  decorated  with  frescoes. 
In  the  chapel  is  the  "Madonna  del  Tor- 


mento,"  and  in  the  Hall  of  Hercules  there 
is  a  colossal  statue  of  that  god  by  Lom- 
bardi. 

The  same  place  contains  the  Palace  of 
the  Podestn,  which  dates  from  the  13th  cen- 
tury, the  facade  from  the  loth.  It  is  par- 
ticularly noted  for  being  the  prison  of  the 
young  and  poetical  Enzio,  king  of  Sardin- 
ia, and  son  of  the  Emperor  Frederick  II. 
He  was  taken  prisoner  at  the  battle  of 
Fossa ta  in  1249,  and  was  kept  prisoner  by 
the  Bolognese  twenty-three  years,  until  his 
death.  He  was  solaced  in  his  captivity  by 
a  young  and  lovely  damsel,  Lucia  Venda- 
gola  of  Bologna,  who  under  various  dis- 
guises managed  to  visit  him,  from  which 
connection  the  Bcnlivoglio  family  claim  or- 
igin. The  Sala  del  Re  Enzio  is  shown. 

Palazzo  del  Mercanzea,  or  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  was  erected  in  1294 ;  restored 
by  the  Bentivoglio  in  1493.  Its  interior  is 
adorned  with  numerous  monuments  and 
armorial  bearings  of  the  principal  judges. 

The  Private  Palaces  of  Bologna  are  nu- 
merous, but  nearly  all  the  noted  works  of 
art  they  contained  have  been  taken  away, 
and  those  that  remain  are  not  open  to  the 
public.  One  of  the  principal  is  the  Palazzo 
Pepoli,  the  residence  of  the  once  powerful 
family  of  Bentivoglio,  one  of  the  best  in 
Bologna.  It  was  destroyed  once  by  the 
populace  at  the  suggestion  of  Julius  II.,  a 
rival  of  the  great  house.  Fava  contains 
some  splendid  frescoes.  Montunari,  which 
formerly  possessed  a  magnificent  collection 
of  pictures.  Vicenzi;  the  court  of  this  pal- 
ace is  superb.  Zampieri  had  at  one  time 
the  best  collection  at  Bologna ;  nearly  all 
have  been  transferred  to  the  Brera  at  Mi- 
lan. Zumbeccari  still  contains  some  good 
specimens. 

The  Campo  Santo  is  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting sights  in  Bologna,  and  is  decided- 
ly the  finest  in  Italy.  It  is  situated  out- 
side the  Porta  St.  Isaia,  at  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  town,  and  was  formerly  a 
Carthusian  monastery,  erected  about  the 
middle  of  the  14th  century,  but  was  conse- 
crated in  1801.  All  the  noble  families  of 
Bologna  have  monuments  here,  and  many 
of  them  are  most  magnificent,  especially 
those  finished  during  the  last  few  years, 
1870, 1871,  and  1872.  The  monument  erect- 
ed to  a  member  of  the  Pallavicini  family 
(uncle  of  the  owner  of  the  villa  near  Genoa) 
is  very  beautiful ;  also  that  of  Letizia  Mu- 
817 


PlSTOIA. 


[ITALY.] 


PlSTOIA. 


rat  Pcpoli.  erected  in  1859.  The  statue  of 
her  father,  by  Vine.  Vela,  is  a  splendid  piece 
of  sculpture. 

Notice,  in  the  Piazza  near  the  church  of 
St.  Bartolomeo,  the  two  leaning  towers  of 
Asinelli  and  Garisenda.  A  visit  should  be 
made  to  the  royal  chateau  of  St.  Michele 
in  Boseo,  also  to  the  church  of  the  Madonna 
di  San  Luca,  so  called  from  an  ancient  pict- 
ure of  the  Virgin,  supposed  to  have  been 
p.iintad  by  St.  Luke,  and  brought  from  Con- 
stantinople. This  church  stands  on  an 
eminence,  about  two  and  a  half  miles  out- 
side the  gate  of  Saragozza. 

Not  less  than  two  days  should  be  de- 
voted to  Bologna. 

Cabs,  per  hour,  1  fr.  50  c. ;  the  course, 
75  c. 

Theatres:  del  Comun\  C  mtarati,  etc. 

The  time  from  Bologna  to  Florence  via 
Pistoia  is  4  h.  40  m. 

From  Bolor/na  to  Pistoia.  Time,  2  h. 
20  m. ;  fare,  11  fr.  10  c. 

From  Bologna  to  Brindisi,  by  rail,  via 
Ancona  ;  distance,  475  miles.  Time,  19  h. 
59  m. ;  tare,  95  fr.  'JO  c.  (Indian  mail,  16  h.) 

From  ffokgna  to' Ancona,  by  rail,  via 
Rimini,  distance  123  miles.  Time,  4f 
hours  ;  fare,  23  fr.  10  c. 

Custel  Piftro,  with  a  castle  erected  by 
the  Bolognese. 

Continuing  the  route  to  Florence,  the 
line  now  passes  over  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting and  grandest  routes  in  Italy. 
There  are  no  towns  of  importance,  but  the 
road  is  one  succession  of  beautiful  views, 
like  pictures  set  in  a  frame.  As  the  trav- 
eler emerges  from  the  numerous  gorges 
and  tunnels  with  which  the  road  is  filled, 
he  gazes  with  wonder  at  the  depth  of  the 
lovely  valleys  beneath  him. 

The  distance  to  Florence  is  4  h.  45  m. 

Passing  the  towns  of  Marzabttto,  after 
which  the  tunnels  come  in  quick  succes- 
sion, and  Poretttt,  where  there  are  mineral 
springs  and  baths,  the  lovely  plains  of 
Tuscany  break  upon  the  view,  a  sight  rare- 
ly equaled  in  beauty. 

Pistoia,  finely  situated  a  mile  distant 
from  the  left  bank  of  the  Ombrone,  a  branch 
of  the  Arno,  at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines, 
and  contains  a  population  of  12,000.  Prin- 
cipal hotels,  //  Globo  and  Stella  d'  Oro.  Pis- 
toia gave  birth  during  the  Middle  Ages  to 
the  two  powerful  factions,  Guelphs  and 
Ghibelines,  or  "Blacks"  and  "Whites," 
818 


which  were  originally  the  same  family, 
and  for  a  long  time  desolated  the  coun- 
try. Some  of  the  members  of  this  family, 
which  was  closely  connected,  were  playing 
I  cards  in  a  tavern,  when  one  of  them  gross- 
ly insulted  and  wounded  another,  who.  in 
turn,  laid  in  ambuscade  for  the  brother  of 
the  insulter,  Judge  Vanni,  whom  he  se- 
verely wounded;  but  the  father  of  the 
young  man.  knowing  the  customs  of  the 
times,  and  wishing  to  appease  the  family 
of  Vanni,  sent  his  son  to  the  judge,  but,  in- 
stead of  being  disarmed  by  this  submission, 
they  cut  off  the  hand  of  the  young  man, 
and  in  this  state  returned  it  to  his  father, 
whose  thirst  for  vengeance  was  entered 
into  by  every  member  of  his  immediate 
family. 

Near  Pistoia  Catiline  was  defeated  and 
slain. 

Pistoia  is  a  commercial  town,  with  nu- 
merous manufactories  of  cloths,  arms,  and 
organs.  Pistols  were  originally  manufact- 
ured in  this  town,  hence  the  name.  There 
are  several  fine  churches  in  Pistoia  well 
worth  a  visit.  The  bas-reliefs  of  the  Ca- 
thedral deserve  particular  notice  ;  some  of 
them  are  by  the  famous  Andrea  della  Rob- 
bia.  Notice  particularly  the  monument 
of  the  poet  Cino.  The  bas-reliefs  of  the 
church  of  St.  Andrea,  by  Giovanni  da  Pisa, 
are  well  worth  particular  notice. 

The  church  of  Santa  Muritt  delV  Umilfa 
is  the  finest  church  in  the  city ;  it  is  of  oc- 
tagonal form  and  in  the  Corinthian  order. 
It  was  constructed  by  Vitoni,  a  pupil  of 
Bramante,  in  the  early  part  of  the  16th 
century.  It  contains  several  fine  paint- 
ings. 

The  churches  of  St.  Jacopo,  St.  Giovanni, 
and  St.  Domenico  are  the  principal. 

The  palace  of  Prince  Rospigliosi  con- 
tains some  very  fine  pictures. 

To  Florence  the  distance  by  rail  is  one 
hour. 

Florence,  for  description,  see  Index. 


IMOLA. 


[ITALY.! 


RAVENXA. 


ROUTE  No.  216. 

Xfi'an  to  Brindi-si,  vin  Bologna,  Rave'ina, 
Rimini,  Aitcon:i,  unit  Fog^i'i,  an  I  Genoa  to 
Brimi'-i.  lime.  ~1\  h.  34  in.;  fare,  first 
class,  ll'.i  fr.  3J  o. ;  second  class,  91  fr.  80 c. 

From  Milan  to  Boloyna.  See  Route  No. 
215. 

Imoli,  a  very  ancient  town  of  about 
11.01  »0  inhabitants,  is  situated  on  the  San- 
terno.  In  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Cassiano, 
where  repose  the  remains  of  the  saint  of 
that  name,  is  also  to  be  seen  the  tomb  of 
St.  Petrus  Chrysologus,  many  years  ago 
Archbishop  of  Ravenna.  There  are  few 
objects  of  interest  in  Imola.  A  MS.  Bi- 
ble on  parchment,  greatly  valued  by  Car- 
dinal Mezzofanti  during  his  life,  can  be 
seen  at  the  public  library.  Innocenzo  da 
Imola,  passing  most  of  his  time  away  from 
the  city  of  his  birth,  found  but  little  chance 
to  favor  it  with  proofs  of  his  geniu«.  At 
about  4i  miles  from  Imola  is  Ciistel Bologn- 
ese,  so  called  front  the  castle  the  Bologn- 
ese  built  there  in  1380.  It  is  memorable 
as  the  scene  of  the  defeat  of  the  Florentine 
army  in  the  year  1454  by  the  Milanese  un- 
der Piccinino.  The  road  branches  off  here 
to  Rarenna. 

[From  Caslel  Bol<gnese  to  Ravenna,  time 
1}  hours  :  fare,  4  fr.  55  c.] 

Leaving  Castel  Bolognese.  and  passing 
Solaro'o,  we  arrive  at  Lugo,  a  town  of  about 
8400  inhabitants,  where  little  of  intere>t  is 
to  be  seen  except,  perhaps,  during  the  first 
half  of  the  month  of  September,  at  which 
time  a  fair  has  been  held  ever  since  the 
proconsulate  of  Marcus  yEmilius. 

Three  miles  from  Lugo  is  the  village  of 
Cotignnla,  the  birthplace  of  Attendolo  Sfor- 
za,  the  founder  of  the  illustrious  house  of 
dhat  name.  The  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Cu- 
'\io,  that  famous  stronghold  of  times  gone 
«JV,  may  still  be  seen.  We  next  arrive  at 

Rcirenna. — This  city  has  some  21.000  in- 
habitants. The  best  hotels  are  the  De 
r Europe  and  the  Spada  cTOro :  the  former 
is  new. 

Few  cities  in  Italy  recall  more  historic- 
al reminiscences  than  Ravenna.  It  was 
founded  by  the  Pelasgi.  The  F.mperor 
Honoring  made  it  his  residence,  mostly  on 
account  of  its  military  strength.  It  after- 
ward became  the  capital  of  the  Western 
Empire,  and  still  later  was  taken  posses- 
sion of  by  the  Herulian  Odoacer,  king  of 


Italy  ;  then  by  Theodoric  the  Great,  king 
of  the  Ostrogoths,  who  restored  it,  in  a 
great  measure,  to  its  firmer  splendor.  His 
mausoleum  is  but  a  short  distance  outside 
the  fortifications.  The  Greek  emperors 
then  held  the  city  until  the  year  752,  when 
they  were  expelled  by  Pepin,  king  of  tha 
Franks,  who  delivered  it  over  to  the  Pope, 
from  which  time  the  right  of  possession 
was  very  uncertain,  it  being  disputed  by 
the  Guelphs,  the  Ghibelines,  and  the  Po- 
lenta family.  In  1318  Ravenna  chose  its 
own  government,  but  in  1441  internal  dis- 
cord induced  the  inhabitants  to  offer  the 
government  to  Venice,  under  whose  rule 
they  prospered  for  over  half  a  century.  In 
1509  it  was  seized  by  Julius  II.,  and  re- 
mained under  the  Roman  See  until  1797, 
when  it  again  changed  hands  several  times 
within  a  few  years.  In  the  year  1512  one 
of  the  bloodiest  battles  that  Italy  has  ever 
known  took  place  under  its  walls.  Gas- 
ton  de  Foix,  the  celebrated  French  knight, 
attacked  the  fortress  with  the  troops  of 
Louis  XII.  under  his  command,  and  won 
the  victory  for  his  country  at  the  price  of 
his  own  life. 

Ravenna  is  a  rather  unhealthy  locality, 
notwithstanding  the  great  quantity  of  ver- 
dure in  the  city.  Although  formerly  a 
sea-port,  it  is  now,  owing  to  the  deposition 
of  sediment  by  the  waters  of  the  Po,  some 
three  miles  from  the  coast  and  six  miles 
from  its  former  harbor,  which  is  used  for 
fishery  and  the  coasting  trade.  The  town 
itself,  having  become  somewhat  of  a  bath- 
ing resort,  is  connected  with  the  sea  by  the 
Canale  Naviglio,  and  carries  on  a  large 
maritime  business  with  the  provinces  on 
both  sides  of  the  Adriatic. 

The  cathedral,  churches,  monuments, 
public  edifices,  squares,  etc.,  of  Ravenna 
are  all  well  worthy  of  notice.  The  Cathe- 
dral of  St.  Orso,  founded  during  the  fourth 
century  by  the  saint  of  that  name,  con- 
tains two  of  Guido  Reni's  best  pictures,  the 
"Falling  of  the  Manna,"  and  the  "Meet- 
ing of  Abraham  and  Melchisedec:"  also 
a  fresco  by  the  same  artist,  "An  angel 
bringing  food  to  Elijah;"  some  fine  fres- 
coes bv  his  pupils,  an  urn  containing  the 
remains  of  nine  of  the  former  bishops,  an- 
other containing  the  ashes  of  St.  Barlatian. 
the  ivory  chair  of  St.  Maximian.  with  his 
monogram  still  visible  upon  it,  and,  lastly, 
some  remains  of  the  far-famed  vinewood 
819 


RAVENNA. 


[ITALY.J 


/FAENZA. 


door,  inclosed  in  another  of  modern  struc- 
ture. 

The  Baptistery,  an  octagonal  structure, 
contains  a  Parian  marble  urn  brought  from 
the  temple  of  Jupiter  at  Caesarea. 

St.  Apollinare  Nuovo,  a  basilica  built  by 
Theodoric  the  Great  in  the  beginning  of 
the  sixth  century.  The  rounded  arches 
are  supported  by  twenty-four  marble  col- 
umns brought  from  Byzantium,  and  the 
•walls  of  the  nave  are  adorned  with  mosaic 
•work,  of  which  the  subjects  are  most  inter- 
esting. 

I  The  Church  of  St.  Giovanni  Evangelista, 
founded  in  the  year  444  by  the  Empress 
Gallia  Placidia  in  fulfillment  of  a  vow. 

St.Nazario  e  Celso,  the  mausoleum  of 
Gallia  Placidia,  built  in  the  year  440,  in 
which  are  to  be  seen  the  sarcophagi  of  that 
empress,  of  the  Emperor  Honorius,  and  of 
Constantine  III. 

The  Tomb  of  Dante  contains  the  sarcoph- 
agus of  that  poet,  with  an  epitaph  of  his 
own  composition  inscribed  upon  it. 

Among  other  places  of  imterest  which 
should  be  visited  are  the  Public  Li'.r-in/. 
containing  over  50,000  volumes,  besides 
some  valuable  MSS.  of  Dante  and  Aris- 
tophanes, and  the  Accademia  delle  Belle 
Arti,  where  may  be  seen  some  fine  paint- 
ings by  native  artists. 

There  are  several  interesting  spots  out- 
side the  city,  of  which  we  would  recom- 
mend to  the  traveler 

The  Mausoleum  of  Theodoric  the  Great, 
founded  by  his  daughter,  Amalasuntha, 
in  the  year  530;  St.  Apollinare  in  Classe 
(named  after  St.  Apollinare,  who  suffered 
martyrdom  in  the  year  74  under  Vespa- 
sian), erected  in  534,  and  one  of  the  best 
preserved  early  Christian  churches  in  Eu- 
rope. The  tomb  in  which  the  remains 
of  the  saint  once  reposed  is  still  in  the 
crypt 

Near  the  Konco,  some  two  miles  from 
the  city,  stands  the  Colonna  da  Francese, 
erected  in  commemoration  of  the  dearly- 
bought  and  bloody  victory  of  the  French 
under  the  celebrated  Gaston  de  Foix,  in 
1512,  over  the  papal  troops  and  their  allies. 
The  heroic  commander  of  the  French,  the 
pride  of  his  nation  and  the  terror  of  its 
enemies,  was  one  of  the  20,000  that  after 
the  victory  lay  dead  upon  the  field  of 
battle. 

Along  the  road  from  Ravenna  to  Cervia 
820 


stretches  the  far-famed  Pineta,  or  Pine-tree 
Forest.  Byron  often  alluded  to  it,  and 
vies  with  Dante,  Boccaccio,  and  Dryden  in 
praising  its  grandeur.  It  was  one  of  his 
favorite  resorts  during  his  stay  in  Raven- 
na, for  which  place  he  had  a  great  predi- 
lection. His  house  may  still  be  seen,  and 
is  noticeable  as  having  been  later  the  resi- 
dence of  Garibaldi. 

Carriages,  per  course,  1  fr. ;  at  night,  1^ 
fr. ;  two  horses,  2  fr.  Outside  the  town, 
one  horse  per  hour,  2  fr. ;  two  horses,  4  fr. 

Steamers  to  Trieste  weekly,  in  12  hours ; 
fare,  27  fr.  50  c. 

The  traveler,  after  having  seen  Raven- 
na, and  wishing  to  avoid  any  part  of  the 
railroad  between  Bologna  and  Rimini,  may 
proceed  direct  to  Faenza,  Forli,  Cesena,  or 
Rimini,  otherwise  he  will  return  to  Caslel 
Bolognese,  and  thence  continue  his  route. 

Faenza.  Principal  hotel  La  Corona. 
Faenza,  a  town  of  some  17,000  inhabitants, 
is  situated  on  the  Lamone,  mentioned  by 
Dante  in  his  Inferno.  It  was  the  birth- 
place of  Torricelli,  Jacomone,  and  Bertuc- 
ci.  and  is  noted  for  its  manufactures  of  pot- 
tery (whence  the  French  vror&faience)  and 
for  its  spinning  and  weaving  of  silks,  both 
of  which  manufactures  were  introduced  at 
a  very  early  age. 

The  Cathedral  of  San  Costanzo  contains 
a  painting  of  the  Holy  Family  by  Inno- 
cenzo  da  Imola,  also  some  bas-reliefs  by 
Benedetto  da  Majano. 

A  painting  of  the  Holy  Virgin  and  a  St. 
John,  both  by  Guido,  may  be  seen  in  the 
Capuchin  Convent  outside  the  town.  San 
Maglorio  contains  a  Madonna  by  Gior- 
gione,  and  in  the  Commanda  is  a  painting 
by  Girolamo  da  Treviso  of  the  Madonna 
and  Child,  which  is  in  every  way  worth}' 
of  that  great  master.  A  few  paintings  by 
native  artists  are  on  exhibition  at  the  Pi- 
nacotheca.  The  Palazzo  Communale,  for- 
merly the  palace  of  the  Manfred!,  lords  of 
Faenza,  should  also  be  visited.  Here  it 
was  that  Galeotto  Manfredi  was  murdered 
in  the  night  by  his  jealous  wife,  Francesca 
Bentivoglio.  The  grated  window  in  the 
centre  which  witnessed  the  deed  is  still 
shown.  This  same  window  is  alluded  to 
by  Monti  in  his  traged}'  of  Manfredi.  Fa- 
enza is  connected  with  the  Adriatic  by  the 
Nanelli  Canal,  constructed  in  1782. 

Roads  lead  from  Faenza  to  Ravenna  and 
Florence. 


FORLI. 


[ITALY.] 


PE3ARO. 


Forli.  Principal  hotel  La  Posta.  Forli 
is  a  finely  built  town,  containing  several 
churches  replete  with  works  of  art,  which 
can  not  fail  to  interest  the  traveler. 

The  Cathedral  of  th?  ll>l>j  O>  ^  i<  well 
worth  notice  on  account  of  its  Chapel  of 
the  Holy  Virgin,  the  cupola  of  which  wr.s 
painted  by  Carlo  Cignane ;  "on  which  he 
spent,"  says  Lanzi,  "36  years  of  his  life, 
leaving  to  posterity  one  of  the  finest  works 
of  art  extant." 

The  Church  of  St.  Girolamo  contains  a 
fine  painting  of  the  Conception  by  Guido, 
some  fine  frescoes  by  Palmezzano  and  Me- 
lozzo,  and  a  Virgin  and  Child  by  the  for- 
mer. The  roof  was  painted  by  Melozzo. 

The  church  of  St.  Mercuriale  contains 
some  fine  paintings  by  Palinezzano  and 
Innocenzo  da  Imola. 

The  Campanile,  erected  in  the  year  1180, 
is  conspicuous  on  account  of  its  height  and 
architecture. 

The  Finacotheca  contains  some  very 
good  paintings  by  Cignani,  Palmezzano, 
etc. 

The  Citadel,  built  in  the  year  1359,  and 
now  serving  as  a  prison,  is  a  place  of  great 
historical  interest.  It  has  sustained  two 
heroic  sieges  against  overwhelming  supe- 
riority of  numbers,  and  in  one  case  its  re- 
sistance was  crowned  with  success. 

Roads  lead  from  Forli  fo  Ravenna  and 
Florence. 

Cesena  (principal  hotel  La  Posta),  a  town 
of  8000  inhabitants,  is  pleasantly  situated 
near  the  Savio.  In  the  Palazzo  Public^ 
is  a  beautiful  painting  of  the  Virgin  and 
Saints  by  Francesco  Francia.  The  l.i'»-u- 
ry,  founded  in  14o2,  contains  some  4000 
M>>.  In  the  Church  of  Santa  Maria  del 
Monte,  on  a  hill  about  a  mile  from  the  city, 
some  interesting  relics  may  be  seen. 

A  few  miles  from  Cesena  are  the  well- 
known  sulphur  mines,  which,  as  a  natural 
curiosity,  should  by  all  means  be  visited. 

Leaving  Cesena  and  crossing  the  Piccia- 
tello,  identified  with  the  Rubicon  of  Cacsa- 
rean  fame,  we  reach  the  Bridge  qfAvyts- 
tus,  begun  by  that  emperor,  and  finished  by 
Tiberius  more  than  18  centuries  ago,  built 
of  Istrian  limestone,  and  in  a  fine  state  of 
preservation.  Crossing  this  bridge,  we  ar- 
rire  at 

Rimini. — Hotels,  Aquilad'Oro  and  Trat- 
toria   Europa.       Kimini    contains    some 
18,000  inhabitants,  and   is  situated  near 
VOL.  II.— N 


the  mouth  of  the  river  Marecchia.  It  is 
fast  becoming  a  place  of  importance,  es- 
pecially for  its  sea-bathing.  In  1671  an 
earthquake  filled  up  its  harbor  and  destrov- 
ed  its  foreign  commerce.  It  is  a  very  old 
town,  having  been  taken  by  Caesar  as  ear- 
ly as  the  year  49  B.C..  after  his  passage  of 
the  Rubicon :  in  the  square  bearing  his 
name,  the  stone  basement  is  still  to  \y;  seen 
from  which  he  harangued  the  Roman  army 
after  his  entrance  into  the  city.  In  the 
year  538  the  city  was  besieged  by  the  Visi- 
goths, but  was  rescued  by  Belisarius.  It 
afterward  belonged  for  some  time  to  the 
Malatesti  and  the  popes.  The  principal 
objects  of  interest  are  the  Porto,  Romano, 
formerly  Arch  of  Augustus,  built  in  honor 
of  that  emperor  by  the  inhabitants;  the 
churches  of  San  Francesco,  San  Giuliano, 
and  the  Palazzo  del  Comune,  in  the  last  of 
which  is  a  painting  representing  the  Mar- 
tyrdom of  San  Giulia.no  by  Paul  Veronese. 
An  excursion  should  be  made  to  the  an- 
cient republic  of  San  Marino,  the  smallest 
in  the  world,  celebrated  for  having  so  vig- 
orously defended  its  liberty  when  threat- 
ened in  turn  by  the  popes,  the  Malatesti, 
and  Napoleon  I.  It  was  founded  by  San 
Marino  in  the  time  of  the  Christian  perse- 
cution under  Diocletian. 

From  Rimini  to  Anconaby  rail,  distance 
58  miles. 

From  Rimini  to  Brindisi  by  rail,  via  A  n- 
cona,  distance  408  miles. 

Pesaro  (hotels  Leone  d'Oro  and  Italia)  is 
a  small  town  of  some  15,000  inhabitants, 
situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  Foglia.  It 
was  the  birthplace  of  Pope  Innocent  XI., 
of  the  painter  Carilarini,  and  of  the  late 
lamented  Rossini.  It  received  a  Roman 
colony  as  early  as  184  B.C.  Long  after, 
it  was  destroyed  by  Totila  and  rebuilt  by 
Belisarius.  Its  principal  manufactures  are 
silk,  pottery,  and  wax. 

A  diligence  ride  of  5  or  6  hours  may  be 
taken  from  Pesaro  to  Urbino  (fare  3  fr.),  a 
town  of  12,000  inhabitant?,  situated  on  the 
Metauro.  Urbino  is  celebrated  as  being 
the  birthplace  of  Raphael.  It  po-- 
the  oldest  academy  in  Italy,  some  church- 
es, and  other  public  edifices  and  monu- 
ments, which  should  be  visited  if  the  trip 
is  made.  Among  these  we  will  mention 
the  Ducal  Palace,  the  Cathedra',  and  the 
church  of  San  Francesco  di  Paoli,  in  which 
are  two  pictures  by  Titian — the  Resurrec- 
821 


AXCOXA. 


[ITALY.] 


ANCONA. 


(ion  and  the  Eucharist,  both  of  beautiful 
execution. 

Returning  to  Pesaro  and  continuing  our 
route,  we  coma  to  fan  m  (in  ancient  times 
Fanum  Fortuiue,  or  the  Temple  of  Fortune), 
a  small  town  of  8000  inhabitants.  Hotel 
Tre  Re.  This  was  formerly  a  place  of 
considerable  military  importance,  as  the 
ruins  of  its  fortifications  testify.  Like  Pe- 
saro, it  was  destroyed  by  the  devastating 
Totila  and  rebuilt  by  Belisarius,  and,  like 
Rimini,  contains  an  Arch  of  Augustus,  ded- 
icated to  the  first  emperor  of  Rome. 

The  Cathedral  of  San  Fortunalo  and  the 
churches  of  Santa  Maria  Nuova  and  San 
Baterniano  possess  some  fine  works  of  art: 
an  Annunciation  by  Guido  Reni,  and  a  Go- 
liath by  Domenichino,  the  former  in  the 
Crypt  of  the,  GabrieUi  and  the  latter  in  the 
Collegia  Folfi.  A  very  superb  antique  the- 
atre should  also  be  visited. 

Leaving  Fanum  and  crossing  the  river 
Metauro,  on  the  banks  of  which  the  Ro- 
mans defeated  the  Carthaginians  under 
Asdrubal,  we  reach  Sinigaglia  (the  Roman 
Sena  Gallid),  a  small  fishing  town  with 
8000  inhabitants,  containing  little  to  in- 
terest the  traveler.  Hotel  Locanda  della 
Fornica.  Perhaps  the  only  really  pleasant 
feature  of  the  town  is  the  annual  fair  held 
from  the  20th  of  July  to  the  8th  of  August, 
in  accordance  with  a  custom  of  over  600 
years 'standing.  People  flock  to  the  town 
during  the  above-mentioned  period  from 
all  parts  of  Italy. 

Ancona,  capital  of  the  province  of  Ma- 
rea,  contains  45,000  inhabitants,  of  which 
a  seventh  are  Jews.  Principal  hotels,  Vic- 
toria and  La  Pace.  The  city  was  called 
Ancona  from  the  form  of  a  promontory 
near  it,  which  greatly  resembles  an  elbow 
(in  Greek,  arikdri).  An  elbow  now  forms 
part  of  the  arms  of  the  town.  Ancona, 
both  in  ancient  and  modern  times,  has  been 
a  place  of  great  military  importance,  as  its 
fortifications  will  show.  It  was  founded 
by  a  colony  of  Syracusans  during  the  time 
of  the  persecutions  under  Dionysius.  The 
Romans  occupied  the  town  268  B.C.,  and 
it  was  entered  by  Caesar  after  the  passage 
of  the  Rubicon.  A  free  republic  in  the 
Middle  Ages,  in  1532  Ancona  placed  itself 
under  the  protection  of  the  Pope.  Taken 
by  the  French  in  1797,  by  the  Russians  in 
1799,  it  was  restored  to  the  Pope  in  the 
year  1814.  It  was  again  occupied  by  the 
822 


French  from  1832  to  1838,  and  by  the  Aus- 
trians  from  1848  to  1859.  It  again  l>elong- 
ed  to  the  Pope  until  18G4,  when  the  Papal 
troops,  under  Lamoriciere,  were  driven  out 
j  by  General  Cialdini. 

A  superb  harbor  was  constructed  here 
by  the  Roman  Emperor  Trajan,  but,  unfor- 
tunately, not  deep  enough  for  the  larger 
modern  vessels.  This  harbor  has  two  moles, 
one  erected  by  Trajan,  and  the  other  by 
Clement  XII.  On  each  of  these  moles 
stands  a  magnificent  Arch  of  Triumph,  one 
erected  by  Clement  XII.,  and  the  other 
erected  and  dedicated  to  Trajan  by  the 
Roman  Senate,  in  commemoration  of  his 
great  services  to  the  city.  This  latter, 
constructed  of  marble  of  really  astonish- 
ing whiteness,  and  formerly  adorned  with 
bronze  statues,  trophies,  and  bas-reliefs,  of 
which,  we  regret  to  say,  but  few  traces  re- 
main, is  generally  considered  to  be  about 
as  fine  a  specimen  of  grand  old  Roman  ar- 
chitecture as  can  be  seen  in  Italy.  Its  el- 
evated position  tends  also  to  enhance  its 
imposing  aspect.  The  Arch  of  Clement 
XII.,  though  a  fine  specimen  of  architec- 
ture in  itself,  and  of  more  recent  date,  is 
rather  insignificant  when  compared  to  that 
of  Trajan.  Ancona,  at  the  present  mo- 
ment, is  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  the  foreign 
and  coasting  trade  of  the  Adriatic,  with 
manufactures  of  wax,  tallow,  silk,  and  pa- 
per. Considerable  attention  is  now  being 
given  to  its  fortifications. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Ciriaco,  erected  in 
the  tenth  century  on  an  eminence  over- 
looking the  town,  was  formerly  the  site  of 
the  temple  of  Venus  mentioned  both  by 
Catullus  and  Juvenal ;  the  churches  of  St. 
Francisco,  St.  Affostino,  and  Santa  Maria 
della  Piazza  possess  very  beautiful  Gothic 
porticoes,  of  which  that  of  the  last  named 
is  quite  a  study.  Paintings,  taking  into 
consideration  the  age  and  size  of  the  city, 
are  rather  scarce.  «S<.  Domenico  and  St. 
Francesco  contain  some  fine  works  by  Ti- 
tian, Guido,  and  Bellini.  The  Palazzo  del 
Governo  contains  a  small  collection. 

Ancona  is  celebrated  for  its  beautiful 
women,  also  for  its  immense  prisons,  which 
are  nearly  the  largest  in  Italy. 

Cabs  to  and  from  the  station,  1  fr. ;  at 
night,  1  fr.  50  c. ;  one  hour,  2  fr. ;  outside 
the  town,  2  fr.  50  c.  and  3  fr.  60  c. 


A  N 


llap|>ei 


N  A 


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>ok 


LOKETO. 


[ITALY.] 


FOOOIA. 


Ancona  to  Trieste,  via  Venice,  by  Peirano, 
Danoraro,  &  Co.'s  steamers,  every  week. 

Ancona  to  Genoa,  by  Peirano,  Danoraro, 
&  Co.'s  steamships,  calling  at  intermediate 
stations. 

From  Ancona  to  Brindisi  by  rail,  a  daily 
express  connecting  with  the  Milan  and  Bo- 
logna express  train.  Distance  from  An- 
emia. 350  miles  ;  fare,  61  f.  50  c. ;  time,  19 
hours.  The  local  trains  stop  either  at  Pes- 
cara  or  Foggia  for  the  night. 

The  eastern  coast  of  Italy  has  not,  until 
very  recently,  enjo\'ed  the  patronage  of 
the  ordinary  tourist.  Though  generously 
gifted  by  the  hand  of  Nature,  its  beauty 
can  not  vie  with  the  more  picturesque  love- 
liness of  the  western  coast ;  and  having  uo 
cities  like  Naples,  Rome,  and  Florence  to 
attract  travelers,  or  to  encourage  would-be 
corporations  to  lay  down  railroads,  it  has 
only  lately  been  brought  into  notice  by 
the  completion  of  the  railro:id  from  Bo- 
logna to  Brindisi.  Tins  road  is  now  the 
favorite  route  of  travelers  on  their  way  to 
the  East. 

The  Apennines,  of  which  the  highest 
peaks  are,  until  the  month  of  July,  cover- 
ed with  snow,  rise  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  coast,  keeping  parallel  with  it  as  far  as 
41°  of  latitude;  here  they  separate,  one 
chain  going  to  the  right,  the  other  to  the 
left,  leaving  the  Apuliau  Plain  in  the  cen- 
tre. Here  we  find  harbors  which,  if  not  of 
considerable  importance,  are  at  least  of 
great  promise,  such  as  Brindisi,  Gallipoli, 
and  Otranto.  The  larger  towns  only  of 
this  district  are  blessed  with  tolerable 
inns. 

Passing  Osimo,  the  ancient  Auximum, 
with  its  old  walls  still  standing,  and  Castel- 
Jiilartlo.  where  the  papal  troops  were  de- 
feated by  the  Italians  under  Cialdini, 

Loreto,  the  famous  pilgrimage  town, 
composed  of  a  single  street  filled  with 
booths  for  the  sale  of  medals,  images,  etc., 
to  the  half  -  million  pilgrims  who  conic 


yearly  to  offer  their  devotions  at  the  Chiesa 
delta  Casa  Santa,  built  over  the  house  of 
Mary  of  Nazareth.  It  was  miraculously 
brought  from  that  town  by  angels  and 
dropped  on  the  coast  of  Dalmatia,  where  it 
remained  for  three  years,  and  was  then 
landed  on  the  grounds  of  a  widow.  Laur<  ta, 
hence  the  name.  A  church  was  erected 
over  it,  and  for  nearly  six  hundred  years  pil- 
grimages have  been  made  to  it  by  all  man- 
ner of  people.  In  1506  Pope  Sextus  grant- 
ed the  privileges  of  a  town  to  Loreto.  The 
Treasury  contains  many  valuable  votive 
offerings;  fee,  1  fr.  The  "Casa  Santa" 
is  built  of  brick,  and  stands  in  the  centre 
of  the  church  ;  its  front  is  12J  feet,  depth 
"28,  and  height  13.  It  is  surrounded  by  an 
exquisite  marble  screen,  adorned  with  stat- 
ues, sculptures,  etc.  The  interior  contains 
an  image  of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  said  to 
have  been  executed  by  St.  Luke. 

The  Palazzo  Apostolico  contains  some 
fine  pictures. 

On  the  road  from  Ancona  to  Brindisi, 
only  three  miles  distant,  is  Fermo,  the  an- 
cient Fermum  Picenum,  a  town  of  18,000 
inhabitants,  where  some  interesting  an- 
tiquities are  to  be  seen.  We  afterward 
pass  Marano,  at  a  distance  of  4^  miles  from 
which  was  the  celebrated  temple  dedicated 
to  the  Sabine  goddess  Cupra,  in  the  town 
of  Cupra  Maritima  ;  beyond  St.  Benedetto 
we  cross  the  ancient  Truentris,  now  the 
Pronto,  formerly  the  boundary-line  between 
the  states  of  the  Church  and  the  kingdom 
of  Naples. 

Pescara  (hotel,  Leone  d'Oro),  a  fortress 
of  some  importance,  but  a  dirty  and  un- 
healthy town  of  3000  inhabitants.  A  rail- 
way diverges  hence  toward  Naples,  via 
Chieti  and  Popoli,  finished  as  far  as  Sal- 
mona. 

Ortona,  capital  of  the  Frentani,  contains 
13,000  inhabitants.  Hotel,  Caprera. 

Vasto,  a  town  of  9000  inhabitants.  A 
small  museum  of  relics  and  antiquities  in 
the  town-hall. 

Termoli,  a  fortress  close  by  the  sea. 
The  town  is  exceedingly  dirty  ;  nothing  to 
see. 

Near  JKipalta,  on  the  15th  of  June,  1053, 
Pope  Leo  IX.  was  attacked  and  captured 
by  the  Normans  of  the  famous  Guiscard. 

Foggia. — Hotel,  Grand  Albergo  di  t'ni  l- 
lo.  Foggia  is  a  town  of  35,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  a  well-built  city  for  this  part  of  Ita- 
820 


>_,ARLETTA. 


ly,  it  having  been  almost  entirely  rebuilt, 
owing  to  its  destruction  by  an  earthquake 
in  1791.  Foggia  has  witnessed  many  his- 
torical events  of  interest,  among  which 
may  be  mentioned  the  coronation  of  Man- 
fred in  1258,  and  the  marriage  of  Francis 
I.,  then  Duke  of  Calabria,  to  Maria  Clem- 
entina of  Austria  in  1797,  whence  her  title, 
Capella  Palatina.  Foggia  is  the  point  of 
junction  of  two  railroads  from  Brindisi  and 
Naples,  en  route  via  Foggia  for  Ancona. 
Travelers  going  north  from  Naples  to  Bo- 
logna gain  6  hours  by  making  the  journey 
via  Foligno,  the  train  from  Naples  and  from 
Rome  both  arriving  at  Bologna  at  the  same 
hour. 

Barhtta,  a  town  of  29,000  inhabitants, 
was  founded  in  the  llth  century,  and  in 
the  loth  was  considered  one  of  the  strong- 
holds of  Italy.  The  first  tournament  ever 
held  in  this  country  was  given  by  King 
Manfred  in  honor  of  Baldwin,  the  last  Latin 
emperor  of  Constantinople.  Its  impreg- 
nability was,  however,  subsequently  dis- 
proved. At  a  short  distance  from  Barletta 
is  Andria,  a  town  of  34,000 inhabitants.  In 
the  Cathedral  of  Andria  once  reposed  the 
remains  of  Isabella  of  England,  who  died 
in  1241,  third  wife  of  the  Emperor  Freder- 
ick II. 

From  Barletta  to  Bari  the  journey  is 
one  succession  of  olive-gardens,  plantations 
of  almond-trees,  and  vineyards,  the  beau- 
ty of  which  can  not  fail  to  impress  the 
traveler.  On  the  way  we  stop  at  Trani,  a 
fine  seaport  town  of  25,000  inhabitants, 
and  noted  for  its  wine. 

Bari. — H.  A  Ibergo  del  Risorgimento.  This 
is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same 
name,  and  a  seaport  town  of  50,000  inhab- 
itants. In  the  church  of  St.  Nicolo  a  coun- 
cil was  held  by  Pope  Urban  II.  in  1098, 
having  for  its  object  the  reconciliation  of 
the  churches  of  Rome  and  Greece.  This 
church  contains  the  monument  of  Boria 
Sforza,  Queen  of  Poland  and  Duchess  of 
Bari.  A  painting  by  Tintoretto,  and  one 
by  Paul  Veronese,  may  be  seen  in  the 
church  of  St.  Rocco.  Railway  from  Bari 
to  Taranto. 

Passing  ^fonopoli,  Fasano,  and  Ostuni,-wc 
reach 

Bnndisi  (the  ancient  Brentesion,  sig- 
nifying "  Stag's  Head,"  so  called  from 
the  closing  tendency  of  the  arms  of 
the  harbor).  Principal  hotel,  Gran  Al- 
824 


[ITALY.]  BRINDISI. 

bergo  dell'  Indie  Orientale,  near  the  har- 
bor. It  is  generally  supposed  that  Brin- 
disi  was  founded  by  Diomedes.  It  was 
in  ancient  times  a  place  of  considerable 
importance,  being,  in  the  time  of  the  Ro- 
mans, the  point  of  embarkation  from  It- 
aly to  Greece.  It  then  boasted  60,000  in- 
habitants. Paconius  was  born  and  Virgil 
died  at  Brindisi.  Tancred's  son  Roger 
was  here  united  in  marriage  to  Irene,  the 
daughter  of  the  Grecian  emperor.  About 
this  time  the  fleets  of  the  Crusaders  fre- 
quently made  Brentesion  their  stopping- 
place.  In  1348  the  city  was  plundered  and 
the  inhabitants  put  to  the  sword  by  King 
Louis  of  Hungary.  In  1-116  a  frightful 
earthquake  destroyed  nearly  the  whole 
city,  and  a  great  part  of  its  population.  In 
1845  it  became  a  free  port.  Since  its  con- 
nection by  rail  with  the  rest  of  Europe  it 
has  rapidly  become  a  town  of  importance, 
being  now  the  point  of  embarkation  of 
travelers  going  to  different  ports  on  the 
Mediterranean.  Brindisi  is  or  was  the  ter- 
mination of  the  celebrated  Via  Appia,  so 
often  mentioned  by  different  Latin  poets 
and  historians.  Horace  speaks  of  his  jour- 
ney to  Brindisi  by  this  road.  The  princi- 
pal object  of  interest  in  the  town  is  the  Cas- 
tle, built  by  Frederick  II.  and  finished  by 
Charles  XII.  The  environs  of  Brindisi 
are  very  unhealthy,  owing  to  the  marshes 
surrounding  the  town. 

Bnndisi  to  A  lerandria,  by  the  Peninsu- 
lar and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Com- 
pany's steamships,  every  Tuesday  at  2 
A.M.,  arriving  at  Alexandria  on  the  fol- 
lowing Friday  at  7  A.M.  Contract  time 
of  passage,  75  hours. 

Brindisi  to  Greece,  Turkey,  Blick  Sea, 
etc.,  by  the  Austrian  Lloyd  steamships, 
via  Corfu,  Syra,  Athens,  Smyrna,  Constanti- 
nople, Odessa,  Galatz,  and  Trebizond,  every 
Friday  at  1.30  P.M. 

Brindisi  to  Venice  and  Trieste,  via  Anco- 
na, steamers  twice  a  week. 

Brindisi  to  Genoa  and  other  ports  of  the 
Western  Mediterranean  (see  Ancona). 

Brindisi  to  Otrnnto,  by  rail,  in  3  h.  15  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  7  fr.  60  c. 

Passing  Lecce  (hotel,  iMln  Feroniii), 
containing  22,000  inhabitants,  the  capital 
of  the  province. 

The  Lyceum  contains  a  Museum  of  An- 
tiquities. Near  this  is  the  village  of  fin  we, 
the  ancient  Rudica,  the  birthplace  of  En- 


OTRANTO. 


[ITALY.] 


LUCCA. 


nius,  whose  remains  were  deposited  with 
the  Scipios  at  Rome ;  then  Muglie  and 
other  places  of  no  importance. 

Otranto  (the  ancient  Hydruntium),  now 
a  town  of  little  importance.  It  was  occu- 
pied by  the  Normans  under  Robert  Guis- 
card  and  Bohemund  in  the  llth  century; 
but  its  greatest  misfortune,  and  one  from 
which  it  never  entirely  recovered,  was  its 
capture  by  the  Turkish  fleet  of  Mohammed 
II.  in  14SO,  on  which  occasion  12,000  of 
•its  inhabitants  were  put  to  the  sword,  the 
rest  carried  offas  slaves,  and  the  city  razed 
to  the  ground.  In  one  of  the  churches  the 
bones  of  many  of  the  victims  of  this  terri- 
ble massacre  are  still  preserved. 

The  (diligence)  follows  the  coast  to  the 
promontory  of  Leuca,  the  most  eastern 
point  of  Italy,  where  ^Eneas  first  beheld 
Italy. 


ROUTE  No.  217. 


Pisa  to  Florence,  via  the  Baths  of  Lucca 
and  Pistoia.     Time,  4  h.  4  in. ;    fare,  in^t 
class,  9  fr.  5  c. ;  second  class,  C  fr.  35  c. 
Pita.     See  Route  No.  214. 
From  Pisa  to  Lucca  in  48  minutes. 
Lucca.  —  Population,    68,309.      Hotels, 
Croce  di  Malta.  /'  Unirerg,  and  /'  PtUicuiw. 
Prices  low.     Lucca  was  formerly  the  capi- 

|  tal  of  the  dukedom  of  Lucca,  which  terri- 
tory comprised  the  whole  of  Tuscany  and 
Lucca.  It  lies  on  the  banks  of  the  river 

|  Serchio.  in  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  best 
cultivated  parts  of  Italy.  Lucca  is  noted 
for  being  the  first  place  in  Italy  where  silk 

'  was  manufactured.  The  principal  sight 
is  the  Duijmo,  founded  about  the  middle  of 

j  the  12th  century.     It  is  built  in  the  form 

i  of  a  Latin  cross,  and  has  frequently  been 
restored ;  the  frescoes  in  vaulting  in  1858. 
The  stained-glass  windows  are  modern. 
In  the  nave  of  the  church  is  "  II  Tempiet- 
t»."  a  small  chapel  containing  the  Volto 
Santo  di  Lucca,  a  crucifix  said  to  have 
been  made  by  Nicodemus,  and  transferred 
miraculously  from  the  Holy  Land  in  782. 
It  i<  shown  three  times  each  year.  Be- 
hind the  Duomo  stands  the  A  rckiepiscopal 
Palace.  It  contains  some  fine  pictures 
and  statuary.  The  churches  of  San  Gio- 
vanni, San  Michfle,  San  Romano,  San  Fre- 
dwno  are  worthy  of  mention.  Immediate- 
ly in  front  of  the  ducal  palace  stands  a 
monument  of  Louisa,  Duchess  of  Lucca, 
raised  to  her  honor  by  the  citizens,  in  grat- 
itude for  building  the  aqueduct  which  sup- 
plies Lucca  with  pure  water.  There  are 
some  Roman  remains  here,  consisting  of 
the  ruins  of  a  theatre  and  amphitheatre. 
The  principality  of  Lucca  was  conferred  on 
Eliza,  Napoleon's  eldest  sister,  by  that 
emperor,  in  1805.  She  was  a  woman  of 
strong  and  masculine  character,  and  did 
much  to  improve  her  possessions.  Her 
subjects  lost  a  wise  and  good  sovereign  by 
the  events  of  1815. 

Some  fifteen  miles  from  the  town  are 
the  celebrated  baths  of  Lucca,  to  which 
there  is  an  excellent  road,  built  by  the 
Duchess  Eliza.  Diligence  several  times 
daily  in  2  h.  SO  m. ;  fare,  3  fr.  ;  carriage, 
15  fr.  These  baths  are  the  summer  resort 
of  all  the  fashion  of  Tuscany.  Hotels.  Kn- 
ropa  and  Croce  di  Malta.  This  watering- 
place  is  one  of  the  coolest  and  cheapest  in 
825 


[ITALY.] 


FLORENCE. 


Italy ;  for  $1  50  per  diem  you  can  live  in 
good  style.  The  Cttsino,  or  Ridotti,  is  fine- 
ly situated  on  a  hill  near  the  new  Ospedale 
erected  by  Prince  DemidofY.  The  baths 
are  celebrated  for  their  cure  of  all  cutane- 
ous diseases.  The  facilities  for  the  study 
of  music  and  the  languages  are  excellent. 

The  charitable  institutions  of  Lucca  are 
numerous  for  its  size;  the  chief  among 
them  is  the  Deposito  di  MenHcita,  erected 
in  the  early  part  of  the  14th  century. 

The  promenade  around  the  ramparts  of- 
fers some  delightful  views :  on  the  north 
side  may  be  seen  the  monument  erected  to 
Charles  III.  of  Spain. 

About  half  an  hour's  drive  from  the  town 
is  the  royal  Villa  di  Alarlia.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  fine  grounds,  and  contains  a 
Greek  chapel  with  some  fine  paintings. 
Your  hotel  proprietor  at  Lucca  will  pro- 
cure permission  to  visit  it. 

Near  the  Lake  Massaciuccoli,  six  miles 
from  Lucca,  are  situated  the  ruins  of  the 
Roman  baths,  Bagni  di  Nerone. 

The  line  between  Lucca  and  Pistoia 
traverses  a  most  lovely  country,  the  gar- 
den of  Italy,  rich  in  vegetation,  and  abound- 
ing in  silk  and  paper  manufactories. 

Monte,  Catini  possesses  warm  baths  con- 
structed by  the  Grand  -  Duke  Leopold. 
The  water  is  largely  exported  as  a  remedy 
for  diarrhoea. 

Pistoia  to  Florence,  1  h.  7  m. ;  3  fr.  85  c. ; 
21  miles. 


FLORENCE 

fs  beautifully  situated  on  both  sides  of  the 
Arno.     Population,  171,000.     Principal  ho- 
tels :  Hotel  de  la  ViUe,  Kraffs  Hotel  d' Katie, 
de  f  Univers,  and  de  Milan. 
826 


The  Hotel  de  hi  VUle  is  finely  conducted 
by  Mr.  Autenrieth,  its  new  proprietor,  and. 
enjoys  high  patronage. 

Kraft's  Hotel  d' Italic  has  lately  been  re- 
stored, and  is  now  one  of  the  first  houses  in 
Italy ;  drainage  perfect  and  cuisine  admi- 
rable. 

The  Hotel  de  FUfttVert,  a  magnificent 
new  house,  with  fine  garden ;  situated, 
with  full  southern  exposure,  on  the  Arno, 
in  the  most  fashionable  and  cleanest  por- 
tion of  the  town;  conducted  by  the  pro- 
prietor, Mr.  Schiller. 

The  Hotelde  Milan, a  good,  clean, second- 
class  house,  No.  12  Via  Cerretani,  in  the 
most  central  and  best  position.  Omnibus 
at  the  station  and  moderate  prices ;  con- 
ducted by  the  proprietor,  Mr.  A.  Nucci. 

Pensions. — Good  pension  and  furnished 
apartments  at  Nos.  1  and  5  Borgognis- 
santi. 

To  Florence  has  been  awarded  the  title 
of  the  fairest  city  of  the  earth.  Who  can 
doubt  it,  situated  as  it  is  in  the  rich  valley 
of  the  Arno,  surrounded  by  beauties  of  nat- 
ure and  of  art,  immortalized  by  Byron 
and  Rogers,  and  revered  as  the  birthplace 
of  Dante,  Petrarch,  Boccaccio,  Galileo,  Mi- 
chael Angelo,  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Benve- 
nuto  Cellini,  and  Andrea  del  Sarto?  What 
beautiful  recollections  of  the  past  must 
naturally  be  awakened  in  the  appreciative 
mind  while  tarrying  in  a  spot  which  has 
given  birth  to  such  noble  contributors  to 
poetry  and  the  arts  ?  Beautiful  gardens 
adorned  with  statues,  vases,  fountains,  and 
other  decorations,  as  well  as  the  open 
squares  or  piazzas,  continually  attract  the 
eye  of  the  visitor ;  and  the  palaces,  which 
are  very  numerous,  each  containing  rare 
paintings  and  sculptures,  form  the  princi- 
pal object  of  interest  in  this  delightful  city, 
which  is  the  pride  of  Tuscany.  The  cli- 
mate cf  Florence  is  delightful,  varying  but 
30°  from  summer  to  winter. 

The  walls  of  the  city  are  entirely  un- 
available for  defense  in  modern  warfare ; 
their  principle  use  is  for  the  purpose  of 
collecting  octroi  duties.  The  city  is  en- 
tered by  nine  different  gates.  The  gate 
Sun  Gullet  is  an  arch  of  triumph,  erected  in 
1738  in  commemoration  of  the  entrance  of 
Francis  II.  This  gateway  leads  to  Bo- 
logna and  Fiesole.  The  bridges  which 
cross  the  Arno  are  six  in  number,  four 
stone  and  two  suspension  bridges.  The 


FLO 


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FLORENCE.  [ITALY.] 

etone  bridges  have  been  much  injured  at 
different  times  by  the  rising  of  the  river, 
and  some  of  them  even  carried  away.  The 
most  easterly  is  the  Ponte  alle  Grazie,  or 
di  Kubacorite,  built  by  Lapo,  father  of  Ar- 
nolfo,  in  1237.  There  are  numerous  small 
houses  on  either  side  of  it,  and  its  great 
solidity  has  withstood  the  rushing  of  the 
waters,  while  all  the  others  have  been  sev- 
eral times  destroyed.  The  next  is  the 
Ponte  Vecchio,  built  the  second  time  in  1078. 
It  is  lined  with  shops  on  either  side,  which 
are  mostly  used  by  jewelers.  The  cele- 
brated Maso  Finigiierra,  according  to  tra- 
dition, here  practiced  his  trade.  Above 
the  houses  runs  a  gallery  connecting  the 
Palazzo  Vecchio  and  Uffizi  Gallery  with 
the  I'itti  Palace.  Ponte  a  Santa  Trinila,, 
a  very  beautiful  structure,  built  about  the 
middle  of  the  16th  century.  Formerly 
carriages  were  not  allowed  to  cross  it,  the 
authorities  thinking  it  too  slender;  but  it 
has  proved  not  only  beautiful,  but  strong. 
At  the  angles  are  statues  representing  the 
"  Four  Seasons :"  their  effect  approaching 
the  bridge  is  very  beautiful.  Ammanuti 
was  the  architect  of  this  beautiful  struc- 
ture. Ponte  alia  Curraju,  so  called  on  ac- 
count of  its  being  mostly  used  for  car- 
riages. It  has  several  times  been  rebuilt; 
its  last  restoration  was  by  Ammanati.  Aft- 
er its  construction  in  the  13th  century,  or 
in  the  early  portion  of  the  14th,  during  the 
May-day  celebration,  which  was  famous  in 
those  days,  a  general  invitation  was  given 
to  all  the  citizens  to  appear  on  the  bridge 
and  witness  a  theatrical  representation  of 
the  infernal  regions,  which  was  to  take 
place  on  rafts  below  the  bridge.  It  was 
given  out  that  any  person  wishing  to  hear 
news  from  Satan's  dominions  could  do 
so,  if  present.  The  announcement  drew 
crowds.  The  bridge  was  filled  to  suffoca- 
tion, and,  while  the  demon's  performers 
were  exhibiting  their  antics  below,  the 
bridge  gave  way,  and  thousands  probably 
saw  the  reality  more  vividly  than  they  ex- 
pected. The  two  iron  suspension  bridges 
are  called  San  Ferdinando  and  San  Leo- 
poldo.  The  streets  of  Florence  are  finely 
paved,  but  have  few  sidewalks.  Some  ex- 
tensive improvements  are  now  being  made 
jn  the  widening  of  streets  and  construction 
of  sidewalks. 

The  Duomo,  or  Cathedral  Santa  Maria 


FLORENCE. 


del  Fiore.  The  architecture  of  the  building 
is  quite  interesting,  and  the  building  itself 
massive  and  extensive.  The  original  de- 
sign was  by  Arnolfo,  to  whom  the  Floren- 
tines intrusted  the  construction  of  an  edi- 
fice which  they  expressly  desired  to  have 
surpass  any  thing  that  had  preceded  it. 
After  Amolfo's  death,  the  work  upon  it 
was  stopped  until  Giotto  was  requested  to 
proceed  with  it.  He  also  died,  and  Hru- 
nelleschi  was  called  upon  to  complete  it. 
The  entire  length  is  501  feet ;  from  the 
pavement  to  the  summit  of  the  cross,  388 
feet;  transept,  305  feet  long ;  width  of  nave 
and  aisles,  129  feet ;  height  of  nave,  154 
feet;  and  that  of  side  aisles,  97  feet.  The 
cupola  is  188  feet  in  diameter ;  it  is  the 
widest  in  the  world.  It  is  grand  in  its 
construction,  and  served  as  a  model  to  Mi- 
chael Angelo  for  that  of  St.  Peter's,  which 
it  exceeds  in  size.  The  Cathedral  is  finely 
paved  with  various  colored  marbles ;  and 
the  stained -glass  windows,  made  in  the 
loth  century,  are  the  perfection  of  the  art. 
The  Duomo  contains  the  monuments  of  its 
two  principal  architects,  Giotto  and  Bru- 
nelleschi :  the  bust  of  the  latter  is  by  Bug- 
giano,  one  of  his  pupils,  as  is  also  that  of 
Giotto.  Travelers  should  ascend  the  dome, 
as  a  more  correct  idea  of  its  proportions  can 
be  Drained  by  so  doing. 

The  C  imprinile,  or  bell-tower  adjoining 
the  Cathedral,  designed  by  Giotto,  rises  to 
a  height  of  275  feet.  The  staircase  con- 
sists of  413  steps,  which  are  easy  of  ascent. 
The  erection  of  this  tower  cost  an  enormous 
sum.  It  lias  six  laru'e  bells,  the  largest  of 
which,  named  La  Santa  Repar.-ita.  bears  the 
Medici  arms.  On  the  south  side  of  the 
Piazza  are  two  statues,  fine  productions  of 
modern  Italian  art,  by  Pampaloni,  in  hon- 
or of  Arnolfo  and  Brunelleschi,  architects 
of  the  Duomo.  That  of  the  latter  is  very 
good.  On  his  knee  is  the  plan  of  the  cu- 
pola, and  he  is  looking  up  at  the  realization 
of  it.  Near  this  statue  is  a  stone  let  into 
the  wall,  with  the  words  "  Sasso  di  Dante" 
(Dante's  seat),  on  which  Dante  used  to  sit 
and  contemplate  the  Cathedral. 

The  Battisterio  di  San  Ginvuniti,  of  black 
and  white  marble,  was  built  with  the  ma- 
terial taken  from  the  Temple  of  Mars.  It 
is  supposed  to  have  been  constructed  in  the 
7th  century.  It  was  formerly  open  at 
the  top,  like  the  Pantheon  at  Rome,  but 
was  closed  with  a  lantern  in  1550.  It  was 
827 


FLORENCE. 


[ITALY.] 


FLORENCE. 


completely  surrounded  by  graves  up  to  the 
year  1293.  They  are  alluded  to  by  Boc- 
caccio. The  great  attractions  of  the  Bap- 
tistery are  its  bronze  doors.  That  on  the 
west  was  closed  in  1 200  to  make  room  for 
the  tribune :  two  of  the  other  doors  were 
executed  by  Ghilierti,  and  one  by  Andrea 
Pkano.  This  last  is  an  allegorical  history 
of  John  the  Baptist,  for  which  Giotto  gave 
the  design.  The  finishing  of  this  door 
was  celebrated  throughout  Tuscany  by  a 
festival.  Ghiberti's  doors  were  considered, 
however,  far  superior  to  the  other,  and  Mi- 
chael Angelo.  in  speaking  of  them,  declared 
them  worthy  of  being  the  gates  of  Para- 
dise. The  subjects  are,  1.  The  creation  of 
Man;  The  pain  of  labor  after  the  banish- 
ment from  Paradise ;  Noah  after  the  Del- 


ite  burial-place  of  the  Florentines.    Arnol. 


fo  was  the  architect. 
feet,  and   width  135. 


Its  length  is  460 
Above  the  bronze 


statue  of  St.  Louis,  bishop  of  Toulouse,  aro 
the  letters  I  H  S,  placed  there  after  the 
plague  in  1437  by  St.  Bernardino  of  Siena, 
by  whom  these  initials  were  inserted,  to 
denote  the  name  and  mission  of  our  Lord, 
Jesus  Ilominum  Salvator.  In  the  centre 
of  the  church  is  the  slab  tomb  of  John 
Ketterich,  bishop  of  St.  David's,  also  of 
Lichfield  and  Exeter,  and  who,  sent  as  em- 
bassador  from  Henry  V.  to  Pope  Martin  V., 
died  soon  after  his  arrival  in  Florence. 
The  principal  monuments  of  the  church 
are  as  follows  :  Michael  Angelo  Buonarotti. 
The  three  statues  of  Painting,  Sculpture. 
and  Architecture  appear  as  mourners.  His 


uge  ;  The  promise  made  to  Abraham  ;  :  bust,  by  Lorenzi,  is  considered  a  most  cor- 
Esau  sells  his  birthright;  Joseph  and  his  |  rect  likeness.  The  position  of  this  monu- 
brothers  ;  The  law  from  Mount  Sinai ;  ment  was  selected  by  Michael  Angelo  him- 
The  walls  of  Jericho ;  The  battle  against  i  self,  that  he  might  see  from  his  tomb  the 
the  Ammonites ;  The  Queen  of  Sheba  vis-  |  dome  of  the  Cathedral,  the  delight  and 
its  Solomon.  The  floor  is  paved  with  study  of  lii.s  mind;  Alfieri's  monument, 
white  and  black  marble.  Dante  alludes  by  Canova,  erected  at  the  private  expense 
to  this  building  as  "Mio  bel  San  Giovan- 
ni," and  seemed  to  take  much  delight  in 
it,  notwithstanding  he  had  the  misfortune 
to  break  a  portion  of  the  baptismal  font  in 


saving  a  child  from  drowning.  All  the 
baptisms  of  the  city  are  still  performed  in 
this  church,  the  number  annually  being 
about  4300.  The  tomb  of  Baldassare  Cos- 
sa,  who  was  deposed  by  the  Council  of  Con- 
stance, and  Otto  Colonna  elected  in  his 
stead,  is  a  noble  design,  and  bears  the  pa- 
pal tiara  over  the  armorial,  shields.  In  the 
Guard  troba,  back  of  the  Duomo,  are  pre- 
served some  objects  of  ancient  art  which 
are  very  remarkable. 

Church  of  Santa  Croce,  the   most  im- 
portant  church    of   Florence,   containing 


of  the  Countess  of  Albany  ;  colossal  mon- 
ument to  Dante  ;  monument  of  Machiavel- 
li;  also  of  Lanzi,  writer  on  Italian  art; 
Leonardo  Bruni,  surnamed  Aretino  ;  Mi- 
chele  the  botanist  ;  Nobili  the  philosopher  ; 
Giovanni  Targoni,  the  eminent  naturalist; 
Galileo;  Lami,  the  Florentine  historian, 
and  others.  The  tomb  of  the  Polish  count- 
ess Zamoyska  is  a  fine  piece  of  workman- 
ship. ,  In  one  of  the  chapels  on  the  right  as 
you  enter  is  the  tomb  of  the  Countess  of 
Albany,  wife  of  the  last  Pretender  Stuart. 
The  pulpit  belonging  to  this  church,  com- 
posed of  red  and  white  marble,  is  a  work 
of  great  excellence.  In  the  third  chapel 
to  the  right  of  the  choir  is  the  chapel  of 
the  Bonaparte  family.  Here  may  be  seen 


monuments  erected  to  the  memory  of  many    the  monument  of  Julie  Clary,  wife  of  Jo- 


of  the  most  celebrated  men  of  Italy.  By- 
ron alludes  to  it  in  the  fourth  canto  of 
Childe  Harold : 

"In  S:inta  Crocs' s  holy  precincts  lie 
A>h  r<  which  make  it  holier;  dust  which  IF, 
Kvi'-i  in  it-elf,  nn  immortality, 
Though  there  were  nothing  save  the  past,  and 

this. 

The  particle  of  tho«e  Bitblimi  i,  s 
"NViiirh  have  ivl  qisc  1  '»  <•  i  <>-• :  hero  repose 
Ang'loV,  Alfieros  bone-,  and  his 
The  starry  Galileo,  with  hn  \v.  i    : 
Here  Mnchiavelli'a  eartli  rotu'lu'd  to  whence 

it  rn.si ." 

This  church  has  always  been  the  favor- 
828 


seph  Bonaparte,  and  Charlotte  Bonaparte, 
wife  of  the  brother  of  the  late  emperor, 
Napoleon  III.  Notice  over  the  principal 
entrance  the  bronze  statue  of  St.  Louis, 
bishop  of  Toulouse.  Above  this  are  the 
letters  I  H  S  (lesus  Hominum  Salvator), 
so  universally  seen  in  all  Catholic  church- 
es. These  letters  were  originally  placed 
in  front  of  this  church  by  St.  Bernardino 
of  Siena,  the  inventor  of  the  initials.  Hav- 
ing taken  one  of  his  flock  to  severe  task 
for  the  manufacture  of  playing-cards,  the 
man  pleaded  non-familiarity  with  any  oth- 


FLORF:;CE. 


er  source  of  livelihood.  The  saint  told 
him  to  put  these  letters  on  his  blank  cards 
and  sell  them.  They  spread  like  light- 
ning, and  the  man  made  an  immense  for- 
tune. Notice  near  the  north  transept  the 
monument  to  L'aph.u  1  Morghen.  the  cele- 
brated engraver.  '1  lie  fa<;ade  of  this  truly 
celebrated  church  was  finally  completed 
in  1863,  thanks  to  the  liberality  of  a  Mr. 
Sloane,  a  rich  minor,  who  contributed 
"><)  toward  the  ol.jc.-ct.  Leopold  II. 
and  I'ope  Pius  IX.  also  contributed  large- 
ly toward  the  object.  Over  the  centre 
door  may  be  seen  the  coats  of  arms  of  the 
three  contributor? — the  keys  of  St.  Peter, 
the  double-headed  Cross,  and  the  crossed 
hammers  of  Mr.  Sloane. 

Piazza  of  Santa  Croce,  wherein  the  de- 
mocracy of  Florence  established  its  power 
in  1250.  In  the  centre  is  a  colossal  statue 
of  Dante,  inaugurated  May  14,1865,  by  Vic- 
tor Emunuel,  in  presence  of  a  most  brilliant 
assembly,  this  being  the  600th  anniversary 
of  the  poet's  birth.  It  is  by  Pazzi  of  Ra- 
venna, and  stands  upon  a  lofty  pedestal, 
surrounded  by  four  lions,  inscribed,  '•  To 
Dante  Alighiori ;  Italy  ;  MDCCCLXV." 
Church  of  IM  Santissima  Annuntiata, 
dedicated  to  the  '•  Vcrgine  Annunziata"  by 
seven  Florentine  gentlemen,  who  took  up 
their  abode  on  Monte  Senario,  near  Flor- 
ence, in  1233 ;  here  Andrea  del  Sarto  was 
buried,  and  here  also  is  his  bust,  taken  in 
his  lifetime.  The  cupola  is  by  Albert!,  and 
is  one  of  his  earliest  works.  The  high-al- 
tar is  also  attributed  to  him :  it  is  richly 
sculptured  in  high  relief,  with  a  front  of 
massive  silver,  and  above  it  is  a  large  t-ib- 
ernacle  of  silver,  rich  in  ornaments  and 
sculpture.  In  the  chapels  belonging  to 
this  church  are  many  interesting  tombs : 
Giovanni  di  Bologna,  with  sculpturing  in 
bronze  by  himself;  tomb  of  Angelo  Marzi, 
bishop  of  Assizi  and  minister  of  Cosimo  I. ; 
tomb  of  the  historians  Giovanni  Matteo 
and  Filippo  Villani.  In  the  chapel  of  the 
Ann'inzi'it  i  is  the  miraculous  fresco  of  the 
Annunciation,  upon  which  so  much  wealth 
•was  expended ;  also  the  celebrated  fresco 
of  the  Madonna  del  Sacco,  by  Andrea  del 
Sarto,  for  which  painting  he  received  only 
a  sack  of  wheat  as  payment. 

Notice  the  Ciippella  di  San  Luca,  open- 
ing into  the  large  cloister. 

The  Piazza  deir  Annunziata,  one  of  the 
most  pleasing  portions  of  the  city ;  here  are 
VOL.  II.— X  2 


[ITALY.]  FLORENCE. 

'  located  the  buildings  of  the  Spedale  dtgf 
Inniici'nti,  or  Foundling  ffofpital,  established 
through  the  influence  of  Leonardo  Bnmi. 
In  the  chapel  is  a  splendid  Adoration  of 
Magi  by  dliirlandaio. 

'1  he  equestrian  statue  of  Ferdinand  I. 
was  cast  from  cannon  taken  from  the  Turks 
by  the  Knights  of  St.  Stephen;  the  two 
bronze  fountains,  which  are  very  beautiful, 
were  designed  by  Tacca. 

Church  and  convent  of  the  Cnrmine,  for- 
merly the  most  magnificent  in  Florence, 
was  entirely  destroyed  by  fire  in  1771,  with 

\  the  exception  of  the  Brancacci  chapel. 
Amateurs  in  painting  should  not  fail  to 

j  visit  this  sanctuary  of  art  to  see  the  cele- 
brated frescoes  of  Masolino,  Masaccio,  and 
Lippi:  they  were  commenced  by  the  first 
in  1415,  and  finished  by  the  last  in  1505. 
The  different  frescoes  mostly  relate  to 

!  scenes  in  the  life  of  St.  Peter,  and  were 
visited  and  studied  in  turn  by  Raphael, 
Perugino,  L.  da  Vinci,  and  Michael  Ange- 
lo. From  the  two  small  frescoes  on  the 
left  as  you  enter,  Raphael  took  his  inspira- 
tion for  his  Loges  and  his  St.  Paul  preach- 
ing at  Athens.  The  first  is  Adam  and 
Eve  driven  from  Paradise,  and  the  second 
St.  Paul  visiting  St.  Peter  in  Prison.  Be- 
hind  the  altar  of  this  chapel  is  a  Greek 
painting  of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  brought 
from  the  East,  said  to  have  been  painted  by 
Xt.  lAike  !  A  small  fee  will  induce  the  cus- 
todian to  expose  it.  In  the  choir  is  a  tomb 
of  singular  beauty,  erected  to  Pietro  Sode- 

i  rini. 

Church  of  San  Lorenzo. — Some  portions 

1  of  this  structi. iv  are  attributed  to  Michael 
Angelo:  it  is  exceedingly  rouuh  in  its  ex- 

i  ternal  appearance,  but  the  interior  is  very 
fine,  having  been  recently  decorated.  The 
original  basilica  was  the  most  ancient  in 
the  city.  In  the  Cappella  degli  Operai  is  the 

i  sepulchral  monument  lately  erected  to  the 
eminent  painter  Benvenuto.  Before  the 
high-altar  is  the  memorial  of  Cosimo  de' 
Medici,  upon  which  is  the  title  of  "  Pater 
Patriae,"  which  was  bestowed  upon  him 
after  his  death. 

In  the  Sayresti't  Vecchia  is  the  elegant 
tomb  of  Giovanni  di  Averado  de'  Medici, 
and  of  his  wife  Picarda ;  also  the  costly 
monument  erected  by  Lorenzo  and  Giuli- 
ano  de'  Medici  to  the  memory  of  their  fa- 
ther and  uncle,  Piero  and  Giovanni. 

In  the  Sagrestia  Nuovn,  or  Cappella  dei 
829 


FLOKENCE. 


[ITALY.] 


FLORENCE. 


Deposit*,  are  the  monuments  of  Giuliano 
and  Lorenzo  de'  Medici.  Not  only  were 
these  monuments,  which  are  considered 
equal  to  any  work  of  art  of  the  kind  in  It- 
aly, executed  by  Michael  Angelo,  but  also 
the  chapel  wherein  they  are  placed.  "  Giu- 
liano was  the  third  son  of  Lorenzo  the  Mag- 
nificent, younger  brother,  consequently, 
of  Leo  X.,  and  father  of  the  Cardinal  Ippo- 
lito:  he  was  created  Due  de  Nemours  by 
Francis  I.,  and  died  in  1516,  in  his  thirty- 
seventh  year.  Lorenzo,  the  son  of  Piero 
and  grandson  of  Lorenzo  the  Magnificent, 
was  created  Duke  of  Urbino  by  his  uncle, 
Leo  X.  In  1518  he  married  Madeleine  de 
Boulogne,  of  the  royal  house  of  France : 
the  sole  fruit  of  this  union  was  Catharine 
de'  Medici,  afterward  the  queen  of  Henry 
II." 

In  the  Medicean  Chapel  (which  is  at 
the  back  of  the  choir,  and  may  be  visited 
from  10  to  4  on  application  in  the  church) 
are  some  magnificent  mosaics  and  frescoes ; 
in  fact,  one  should  by  no  means  fail  to  visit 
this  edifice,  as  we  think  it  the  finest  in 
Florence.  The  chapel  was  commenced  un- 
der the  reiirn  of  Ferdinand  I.,  in  1604,  and 
was  originally  intended  to  hold  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  which  the  Tuscan  ruler  intend- 
ed stealing  from  Jerusalem,  but  his  emis- 
saries were  detected  after  they  had  com- 
menced detaching  it  from  the  church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  in  the  centre  of  which 
it  now  stands.  The  walls  of  the  chapel 
are  magnificently  inlaid  with  expensive 
marbles  and  precious  stones.  Notice  the 
armorial  bearings  round  the  chapel ;  they 
are  the  very  perfection  of  the  mosaic  art. 
The  frescoes  of  the  cupola,  which  are  most 
magnificent,  were  executed  by  Benvenuti, 
late  director  of  the  Academy,  between  1828 
and  1837.  They  represent  the  leading 
events  from  the  creation  to  the  last  judg- 
ment (photographs  of  them,  very  finely  ex- 
ecuted, may  be  purchased  in  the  chapel). 
Notice  the  beautiful  tomb  and  statue,  in 
gilded  bronze,  of  Cosmo  II.,  by  John  of  Bo- 
logna, and  that  of  Ferdinand  I.  by  Tacca. 
The  remains  of  the  different  grand-dukes 
are  in  the  crypt  below  the  chapel.  In  the 
cloister  is  the  tomb  of  Paola  Giovo,  a  cele- 
brated historical  writer. 

The  Laurtntian  Library,  raised  by  the 
Medici  family  as  a  monument  to  the  ad- 
vancement of  learning,  has  been  the  recipi- 
ent of  ma.ny  most  valuable  MSS. ;  the  num- 
830 


ber  is  said  to  be  about  9000 ;  they  rank  in 
importance,  if  not  in  numbers,  next  to  the 
Vatican :  there  are  many  choice  works  in 
Hebrew,  Greek,  Latin.  Coptic,  Arabic,  Syr- 
iac,  and  Italian,  of  the  14th,  15th,  and  liith 
centuries  ;  here  also  is  the  Medicean  Vir- 
gil, earliest  MS.  of  the  poet,  and  the  first 
MS.  of  the  Pandects  of  Justinian,  captured 
by  the  Pisans  in  1135,  when  they  took 
Amalfi.  This  work  was  formerly  deified 
at  Pisa,  and  received  equal  veneration  at 
Florence  for  a  lengthened  period.  Letters 
of  Dante,  and  many  very  ancient  MSS., 
complete  the  literary  attractions  of  this 
place.  One  of  Galileo's  fingers,  stolen  from 
his  tomb  at  Santa  Croce,  is  preserved  in  a 
bottle.  The  library  is  open  from  9  to  VI 
daily. 

The  Church  of  San  Marco  contains  the 
celebrated  crucifix  of  Giotto,  which  attract- 
ed such  a  concourse  of  people  when  it  was 
first  brought  to  the  convent ;  to  this  pro- 
duction he  owes  the  popularity  of  his  repu- 
tation, which  excelled  that  of  his  predeces- 
sor Cimabue.  The  mosaic  of  the  Virgin, 
brought  from  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  also 
adorns  this  church,  and  interred  here  are 
the  three  friends  of  Lorenzo  de'  Medici, 
Politian,  Benivieue,  and  Pico. 

The  Piazza  San  Marco  is  adorned  with 
a  bronze  statue  of  General  Fanti,  erected 
in  1872. 

The  Monastery  of  San  Marco  has  been 
converted  into  the  Museo  Florentine  de  S. 
Marco.  Open  in  summer  from  10  to  4,  in 
winter  from  9  to  3;  fee.lfr.;  Sundays  gratis. 

The  cloisters  are  now  entered  from  the 
street.  They  are  decorated  with  frescoes 
I  of  the  18th  century ;  but  the  gems  are  those 
early  frescoes  of  Fra  Giovanni  A  nyelico  da 
Flesole.  who  lived  here  about  the  begin- 
ning of  the  loth  century.  One  apartment 
contains  the  flags  of  all  the  towns  and  cor- 
porations which  were  represented  at  the 
Dante  Festival  in  1865. 

Santa  Maria  Novella,  situated  on  the 
place  of  the  same  name,  was  commenced  in 
125C.  It  was  called  by  Michael  Angelo 
;  his  "  betrothed."  This  was  considered  at 
one  time  the  finest  church  in  the  city,  but 
restorations  have  disfigured  it.  It  is  most- 
ly noted  for  the  fresco  paintings  of  Ghir- 
landajo,  master  of  Michael  Angelo.  They 
should  be  visited  early  in  the  day,  say  9 
o'clock,  and  even  then  they  are  rather  in- 
distinct. It  also  contains  the  Madonna  of 


FLORKNCK. 


[ITALY.] 


FLORENCE. 


Cimabue,  which  was  considered  at  the  time 
the  very  perfection  of  the  art,  and  was 
carried  in  triumph  from  the  studio  of  the 
painter  to  the  church,  followed  l>y  the  en- 
tire populace. 

The  Cuppel/a  del  Gondi  contains  the  fa- 
mous crucifix  carved  by  Brunelleschi  in 
rivalry  with  Donatello,  who  executed  the 
one  now  in  Santa  ('nice.  When  the  latter 
first  saw  the  work  of  Brunelleschi  he  let 
fall  his  apron  which  contained  his  dinner, 
exclaiming,  "To  you  is  granted  the  power 
of  carving  iigures  of  Christ,  to  me  that  of 
peasants."  Ths  interior  of  the  church  is 
considered  one  of  the  finest  works  of  Bru- 
nellochi :  it  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross, 
31 G  fest  long,  and  109  feet  wide  across  the 
body  of  the  church.  Aisles  formed  of  Corin- 
thian columns — magnificent  balustrades  of 
bronze  and  marble  inclose  the  choir. 

'1  lie  other  churches  of  importance  are 
San  Mil-lit-!'^  Stm  Spirito,  and  San  Ambro- 
yio.  In  the  church  of  Ognisanti,  situated 
on  the  I'i.izza  Miinin,  near  the  Hotel  de  la 
Ville,  in  the  chapel  on  the  left  of  the  tran- 
sept, is  the  tomb  of  the  discoverer  of  Amer- 
ica, Amerigo  Vespucci :  his  house  stood 
upon  the  site  of  the  Ospeale  di  San  Gio- 
vanni di  Dio. 

Piazza  del  Gran'  Z>«ra,  the  principal  bus- 
iness portion  of  the  city  ;  here  stands  the 
JJ(iluz:o  Vtcchio,  formerly  the  residence  of 
the  superior  magistracy,  now  converted 
into  government  offices.  The  chief  object 
of  attraction  is  the  great  saloon,  which  is 
connected  with  remarkable  passages  in 
Florentine  history:  its  length  is  169  feet, 
by  77  in  breadth.  In  the  rooms  above  the 
saloon  are  some  portraits  of  distinguished 
families  of  Florence,  among  them  that  of 
Bianca  Capello,  the  celebrated  grand-duch- 
ess. The  Piazza  contains  many  fine  stat- 
ues, among  which  is  the  bronze  equestrian 
statue  of  Cosimo  I.  by  Giovanni  di  Bologna; 
the  David,  by  Michael  Angelo  (sculptured 
at  the  age  of  23),  is  located  on  the  left  of 
the  doorway  of  the  Palazzo.  On  the  right 
of  the  entrance  is  the  colossal  group  of 
Hercules  by  Bandinelli.  The  lion  is  the 
work  of  Donatello.  The  Fountain  of  Xejv- 
tune.  b\-  Ammanati,  also  adorns  the  Piaz- 
za; it  is  erected  on  the  site  where  the  Re- 
former Savonarola  suffered  martyrdom. 
The  l.off'f'n  di  [jtnzi,  finely  proportioned, 
and  considered  by  Michael  Angelo  to  be 
beyond  improvement.  Under  it  are  some 


fine  specimens  of  sculpture,  the  most  im- 
portant of  which  is  the  Perseus  by  Bcnve- 
nuto  Cellini,  and  the  Rjpe  of  the  Sabines 
by  Giovanni  di  Bologna.  Judith  slaying 
Holofernes  is  by  Donatello,  and  the  Dying 
Ajax  supported  by  a  Warrior.  Near  this 
Piazza  are  the  two  markets,  the  M<  r<-<i!<> 
jfuoco  and  Mercato  Vecchio.  Adjoining  the 
Piazza  del  Gran'  Duca  is  the  Uffizi  Gallery 
of  paintings  and  sculpture,  forming  three 
sides  of  an  open  court.  On  cither  side  of 
the  entrance  are  statues  of  Cosmo  I.  and 
Lorenzo  the  Magnificent.  Along  the  sides 
of  tha  court,  placed  in  niches,  are  statues 
by  modern  artists  of  the  great  men  of  Tus- 
cany, commencing  with  Andrea  Organi, 
Niccolo  Pisano,  Giotto,  Donatello,  Alberti, 
Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Michael  Angelo,  Pe- 
trarch, Dante,  Boccacio,Machiavelli,  Guic- 
ciardini,  Amerigo  Vespucci,  Galileo,  Mi- 
cheli,  Recli,  Maseagni.  Andrea  Cesalpino, 
Antonio,  Accorso,  Guido  Aretino,  and  Ben- 
venuto  Cellini,  the  last  holding  in  his  hand 
a  miniature  of  his  Perseus. 

The  fj/i-i  dull  nj — Calli-i  1 1  fmperiale  e 
li .  Open  daily  between  the  hours  of 
(.i  and;?,  Sundays  and  feast-days  excepted, 
when  it  is  open  from  10  to  3,  and  on  Tues- 
days from  !•_'  to  3.  On  the  occasion  of 
great  festivals  it  is  closed  all  day ;  so  also 
is  the  Pitti  Palace.  The  collection  of 
paintings  in  this  gallery  is.  without  doubt, 
the  richest  and  most  varied  in  the  world, 
with  the  exception  of  the  Royal  Gallery  at 
Madrid  ;  neither  is  it  so  extensive  as  either 
the  galleries  of  the  Louvre,  Dresden,  or 
the  Belviderc  at  Vienna.  Ascending  three 
flights  of  stairs,  we  enter  the  first  vestibule, 
wherein  are  placed  the  busts  of  the  Medici 
family,  ton  in  number.  In  the  inner  vesti- 
I  bule  arc  some  fine  statues :  the  Florentine 
!  Boar;  two  wolf-dogs,  noble  figures,  seated 
I  on  either  side  of  the  door;  several  busts, 
and  other  specimens  of  art.  The  corridors 
are  occupied  as  picture  and  sculpture  gal- 
leries. In  our  description  we  will  com- 
mence near  the  entrance  of  the  eastern  cor- 
ridor, with  the  pictures  chiefly  of  the  Tus- 
can school.  One  of  the  finest  is  by  Fra  An- 
gelico  da  Ficsole,  representing  the  Virgin 
and  Chilil  MI  the  centre  surrounded  by 
saints;  around  the  Virgin  and  Child  are 
painted  angels  on  a  gold  ground.  Busts 
and  statues  follow  next  in  order,  and 
among  the  varieties  many  fine  ones  may 
bo  discussed.  In  a  narrow  corridor,  enter- 
831 


FLOKEXCK. 


[ITALY.] 


FLORENCE. 


ed  by  a  small  door  just  beyond  the  statues, 
are  sculptures  of  the  mediaeval  Tuscan 
school,  many  of  which,  by  Donatsllo,  Mi- 
chael Angelo,  etc.,  are  worthy  of  particular 
attention  for  their  composition  and  expres- 
sion. On  the  sarcophagi  placed  in  the 
eastern  corridors  are  various  lias-reliefs, 
the  subjects  of  which  are  taken  from  hea- 
then mythology.  In  front  of  one  is  the 
representation  of  the  fall  of  Phai-ton,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  an  illustration  of  a 
chariot-race  in  a  circus,  perhaps  the  Circus 
Maximus  at  Rome.  Each  chariot  is  being 
drawn  by  four  horses.  In  the  western  cor- 
ridor the  gems  are  many.  Notice  partic- 
ularly the  Drunken  Bacchus  and  Faun.  No. 
380; "the  Wounded  Adonis,  382;  and  an 
Apollo,  all  by  Michael  Angelo,  the  last  but 
just  emerging  from  the  marble.  Here  is 
also  a  fine  reproduction  of  the  Laocoon. 
In  the  southern  gallery  the  gems  are  the 
Venus  Anadyomena  and  the  Young  Athlete. 
The  first  room  to  the  left,  entering  from  the 
eastern  corridor,  is  called  the  Tribune,  a 
small  circular  apartment,  which  not  only 
contains  the  chefs-d'oeuvre  of  this  gallery, 
but  of  the  world,  both  in  painting  and  sculp- 
ture. The  works  of  sculpture  are  five  in 
number;  the  first  is  the  world-renowned 
statue  of  the  Venus  de  Medici,  so  called  be- 
cause it  was  brought  to  Florence  during  the 
reign  of  Cosmo  III.  de  Medici :  it  was  found 
in  the  portico  of  Octavia  at  Rome.  The  in- 
scription on  the  pedestal  says  it  was  sculp- 
tured by  the  Athenian  Cleomenes,  son  of 
Apollodorus.  It  is  considered  the  very  per- 
fection of  design  and  workmanship  :  it  was 
restored  by  Bernini.  The  Apollino,  or 
Young  Apollo,  is  of  the  same  school :  it  is 
generally  attributed  to  Praxiteles,  the  most 
celebrated  sculptor  of  Greece.  The  Danc- 
ing Faun,  restored  by  Michael  Angelo.  The 
Lii-t'itori,  or  Wrestlers,  and  the  Anolino,  a 
slave  whetting  his  knife,  complete  the  five 
wonderful  works  which  have  gained  such 
a  world-wide  reputation. 

In  this   apartment   are  also  the  finest 
paintings  in  the  collection :  Michael  An  -c- 
Iri — the  Virgin  presenting  the  Infant  to  St. 
.Icseph.     Raphael — La  Madonna  del  Cor-  j 
dillino (Goldfinch);  La  Fornarina,  painted 
in  1512  ;  St.  John  preaching  in  the  Desert,  j 
Titian — the  Venus  (alluded  to  by  Byron)  ;  j 
M'onsignora  Beccadelli,  painted  while  the  , 
artist  was  in  his  75th  year.     Paul  Vero-  : 
nese  —  Holy  Family,  with  St.  John  and  I 


St.  Catharine.  Annibal  Caracci  —  a  Bac- 
chante :  Pan;  and  Cupid.  Guercino  —  a 
Siljyl ;  Endymion  sleeping.  Fra  Barto- 
.  lomeo  —  two  fine  figures  of  the  prophets 
Isaiah  and  Job.  Daniele  da  Volterra — the 
Massacre  of  the  Innocents.  Andrea  del 
Sarto — a  very  splendid  picture  of  the  Ma- 
donna and  Child,  between  St.  John  the 
Evangelist  and  -St.  Francis.  It  bears  the 
date  of  1517,  and  i.s  one  of  the  finest  works 
of  this  great  painter,  whose  merits  are 
scarcely  appreciated  elsewhere  than  in  his 
native  city.  The  history  of  this  grand 
master  is  quite  interesting.  Andrea,  call- 
ed del  Sarto  because  he  was  the  son  of  a 
j  tailor,  was  born  at  Florence  in  1488.  He 
;  was  placed  at  first  with  a  goldsmith,  whom 
he  left  for  the  instruction  of  Giovanni  Ba- 
rili,  whom  he  again  left  for  the  studio  of 
i  Pietro  di  Cosimo.  But  it  was  from  the 
study  of  Masaccio,  Gliirlandaio,  Leonardo, 
and  Michael  Angelo  that  he  received  his 
most  valuable  instructions.  He  had  great 
versatility  of  talent,  and  could  imitate  the 
I  style  of  other  artists  with  marvelous  fidel- 
!  ity.  His  genius  inclining  him  to  the  grace- 
ful and  the  tender,  he  lacked  boldness  and 
j  decision  in  treating  grand  subjects.  He 
|  visited  the  principal  cities  of  Italy,  and 
'  was  invited  to  Paris  by  Francis  I.,  whore 
he  was  received  with  great  distinction, 
j  He  returned  soon  to  Florence,  however, 
where  he  led  a  life  by  no  means  beyond 
reproach.  He  died  in  1550.  Albert  Du- 
rer — Adoration  of  the  Magi.  Andrea  Man- 
teima — the  Circumcision  ;  Adoration  of  the 
Kings ;  Resurrection.  Pietro  Perugino — 
Virgin  and  Child  between  St.  John  the 
Baptist  and  St.  Sebastian.  Correggio — 
the  Virgin  knee-ling  in  Adoration  before  the 
Infant,  who  is  reposing  on  a  portion  of  her 
drapery;  the  Virgin  and  Child  between 
St.  Joseph  and  St.  Francis  :  this  is  one  of 
the  artist's  earliest  works,  being  painted  at 
the  age  of  20.  Vandyke — two  fine  por- 
traits, one  of  Charles  V.  on  horseback, 
armed  ;  the  other  of  Giov.  di  Montfort.  B. 
Luini — Ilerodias  receiving  the  head  of  St. 
John.  Parmegianino — Holy  Family,  with 
St.  Mary  Magdalene  and  Prophet  Zacha- 
rias.  Guide — a  Virgin  in  Contemplatii  n. 
Giulio  Romano — Virgin  and  Child.  Ru- 
bens— Hercules  between  Vice  and  Virtue. 
North  of  the  Tribune,  leading  from  it,  ;:rj 
three  rooms. 

First.  Loom  ;    L.  da  Vinci  —  Medusa's 


FLORENX-K. 


[ITAIA.J 


FLOBENCB. 


Head.  Fra  Angelico  da  Fiesole — four  pic- 
tures, representing  the  Birth  of  John  the 
Baptist,  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  Mar- 
riage of  the  Virgin,  Deatli  of  the  Virgin. 
Second  Rovm :  Ridolfo  del  Ghirlandaio — 
Sin  /cnobio  rui.-ing  a  dead  Child:  Trans- 
lation of  the  Body  of  the  Saint.  Mariotto 
All)ertinelli — the  Visitation  of  St.  Eliza- 
beth. Vasari — Lorenzo  do  Medici.  Bron- 
zino — Descent  of  our  Savior  into  Ihules. 
considered  liis  greatest  work.  Leonardo 
da  Vinci — Adoration  of  the  Magi.  Cigoli 
— Martyrdom  of  St.  Stephen.  II  Sodomo — 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Sebastian.  Filippino 
Lippi — Adoration  of  the  Magi ;  Joseph  and 
Potiphar's  Wite ;  and  Judith  slaying  Holo- 
fernes.  The  third  room  contains  some 
early  Florentine  paintings. 

In  a  room  opening  out  of  the  south  side 
of  the  Tribune  are  some  works  of  the  other 
Italian  schools.  Here,  also,  is  a  piece  of 
Grecian  sculpture,  consisting  of  a  table  of 
Oriental  alabaster,  upon  which  is  placed 
the  statue  of  a  sleeping  Cupid.  In  four  of 
the  other  rooms  are  pictures  of  the  French, 
Flemish,  German,  and  Dutch. 

At  the  end  of  the  S.  corridor  is  the  Cab- 
inet of  Gems.  Among  the  many  curiosities 
is  a  vase,  cut  out  of  a  block  of  lapis  lazuli, 
14  inches  in  diameter;  two  bas-reliefs  in 
gold ;  a  vase  of  sardonyx,  upon  which  is 
engraved  the  name  of  Lorenzo  de'  Medici ; 
a  bas-relief  in  gold,  representing  the  Piaz- 
za del  Gran'  Duca  ;  a  casket  of  rock  crys- 
tal, an  exquisite  piece  of  workmanship, 
representing  the  events  of  the  Passion,  in 
17  compartments.  It  was  executed  by  Va- 
lerio  Vicentius,  assisted1  by  his  daughter ; 
a  species  of  shrine,  made  of  enamel  and 
pr.-cious  stones,  representing  the  portrait 
of  Cosimo  I. ;  a  tazza  of  lapis  lazuli,  with 
handles  of  gold,  enameled,  and  mounted 
with  diamonds.  Passing  from  the  eastern 
to  the  western  corridor,  we  descend  to  the 

ttruscun  Museum,  which  contains  many 

-tin.;    vases    and    other   curiosities. 

This  apartment  connects  with  the  gallery 

which  leads  to  the  Pitti  Palace  across  the 

Arno. 

In  two  large  rooms,  which  are  entered 
from  the  western  corridor,  are  many  paint- 
ings of  the  Venetian  school.  Here,  also, 
are  the.  portraits  of  celebrated  painters,  ex- 
ecuted by  the  artists  themselves.  In  the 
centre  of  the  large  room  is  the  celebrated 
Medicean  vase,  found  at  Hadrian's  villa, 


near  Tivoli.  Adjoining  the  last  is  the  Hall 
of  Inscriptions.  The  gems  here  are  the  cel- 
ebrated Venus  Urania,  266,  and  the  \'<niu 
'f.  In  a  small  room  leading  to  this 
hall  is  the  Hermaphrodite,  also  an  infant 
U  .it runt/' :/.i/  .V  ,;/  ,-('.<,  and  a  group 
of  Cupid  and  P.-yc/i>.  On  tins  wall  is  a 
marble  mask  of  a  Satyr,  executed  by  Mi- 
chael Angolo  at  the  age  of  fifteen.  In  a 
small  room  opsning  from  the  last  is  a  fine 
collection  of  antique  gems. 

Hall  ofBaroccio :  Bronzino's  Deposition 
from  the  Cross.  Velasquez  —  Philip  IV. 
of  Spain,  on  horseback.  Rubens — picture 
of  Bacchus,  surrounded  by  Nymphs.  Ba- 
roccio  —  the  "  Madonna  del  Popolo." 
Handhorst,  called  Gherardo  della  \otte — 
Infant  Savior  in  the  Manner.  One  of  the 
finest  copies  ever  made  of  this  splendid 

:  composition  is  in  the  possession  of  \V.  B. 
Dinsmore,  Esq.,  of  New  York.  It  was  ex- 

,  ecuted  by  Costi,  of  Florence.  In  this  room 
are  three  tables,  composed  of  Florentine 
mosaic,  one  of  which  is  the  most  magnifi- 
cent piece  of  work  of  the  kind  ever  made. 
It  took  25  years  to  complete  it.  Twenty- 
two  workmen  were  engaged  upon  it. 

llnH  of  Xiobe,  in  which  are  eighteen  fig- 
ures of  Niobe  and  her  children,  which  were 
for  a  long  time  located  in  the  Villa  Medici, 
and  brought  to  Florence  in  177J.  They 
were  discovered,  previous  to  1583,  near  the 
Port  i  S.  Paolo  at  Rome.  Many  strange, 
suppositions  have  taken  place  as  regards 

I  their  origin.     Among  the  other  pictures 

:  contained  in  this  room  are  :  Rubens  — 
Henry  IV.  at  the  Battle  of  Ivry— his  En- 
try into  Paris  after  the  Battle.  The  oth- 
er objects  of  interest  in  the  gallery  are  the 
bronzes,  medals,  drawings,  and  engrav- 
ing. 

'The  Pitti  Palace,  Pallazo  rilti,  the 
former  residence  of  King  Victor  Kmamiel, 
was  commenced  l.y  Lnca  I'itti.  a  strong 
opponent  of  the  Medici  family,  who  at  one 
time  exceeded  them  in  popularity.  Tho 
first  architect  employed  upon  this  splendid 
edilice  was  Brunelleschi.  Its  erection  was 
af:>Tward  continued  by  Bartolomeo  Am- 
manati,  by  whom  the  wings  were  added, 
and  the  splendid  court  completed,  in  which 
miens  of  sculpture  in  iv 
be  observed.  The  chief  attraction,  howev- 
er, of  this  palace  is  the  collection  of  p.unt- 
in^s  which  number  about  500,  and  are  of 
perhaps  greater  attraction  than  those  con' 
833 


Fl.OKKNCK. 


[ITALY.] 


FLOREXCK. 


tained  in  the  Uffizi.  The  gallery  is  open 
daily  (with  the  exception  of  festival-flays 
and  Sundays)  from  10  to  3.  Catalogues 
will  be  found  in  each  room.  No  fee  ex- 
pected. 

Hall  of  the  Iliad:  the  ceiling  of  this  hall 
was  painted  twenty  years  ago  by  Sabatel- 
li.  Andrea  del  Sarto — two  pictures  of  the 
Assumption.  Fra  Bartolomeo — the  Virgin 
enthroned.  Scipione  Gaetano  —  portrait 
of  Mary  de'  Medici,  queen  of  France.  Vis- 
itors were  formerly  admitted  by  the  prin- 
cipal entrance  instead  of  the  entrance  to 
the  Boboli  gardens ;  and  as  the  beautiful 
frescoes  of  the  ceilings  of  the  five  principal 
halls  are  an  allegorical  representation  of 
the  life  of  Cosimo  I.,  it  will  be  necessary 
first  to  look  at  the  pictures  on  the  walls, 
then,  when  returning,  commence  an  exami- 
nation of  the  ceilings  with  the  Hall  of 
Venus. 

Hall  of  Saturn:  here  Cosimo  is  repre- 
sented as  being  in  mature  age,  and  is  con- 
ducted to  Saturn  by  Mars  and  Prudence 
to  receive  the  crown  offered  by  Glory  and 
Eternity.  Paintings  :  Raphael — Pope  Ju- 
lius II.  Schiavone — the  Death  of  Abel. 
Vandyke — two  portraits  of  Charles  I.  and 
Henrietta  Maria,  his  queen.  Raphael  — 
the  Madonna  del  Baldacchino ;  a  portrait 
of  Cardinal  Bibbiena,  and  a  portrait  of 
Tommaso  Fedra  Inghirami.  Andrea  del 
Sarto — Disputation  on  the  Trinity.  Ra- 
phael—  the  Vision  of  Ezekiel.  Domeni- 
chino — St.  Mary  Magdalene. 

Hall  of  Jupiter :  Cosimo  being  led  into 
the  presence  of  Jupiter  by  Hercules  and 
Fortune.  Salvator  Rosa  —  the  Catiline 
Conspiracy.  Michael  Angelo — the  Three 
Fates.  Borgognone — a  battle-piece.  Fra 
Bartolomeo — Di  St.  Marco.  Tintoretto — 
portrait  of  Vincenzo  Zeno.  Paul  Veronese 
—the  Man's  at  our  Savior's  Tomb. 

Hall  of  Mars:  on  the  ceiling  are  alle- 
gorical representations  of  Cosimo's  success 
in  war.  Raphael  —  the  celebrated  and 
lovely  Madonna  della  Seggiola,  consider- 
ed the  sweetest  of  all  his  Madonnas.  An- 
drea del  Sarto — one  of  his  best  Holy  Fam- 
ilies. Rubens — "  Les  Suites  de  la  Guerre." 
Vandyke — portrait  of  Cardinal  Bentivo'.:- 
lio.  Andrea  del  Sarto — subjects  from  the 
History  of  Joseph  and  Brethren.  Gui- 
do —  Rebecca  at  the  Well.  Cristoforo  Al- 
lori  — Judith  with  the  Head  of  Holofer- 
nes.  Rubens  —  portraits  of  himself  and 
834- 


brother,  and  the  philosophers  Lipsius  and 
Grotius. 

Hull  of  Apollo:  Cosimo.  guided  by  Vir- 
tue and  Glory,  is  received  by  the  Deity  of 
Poetry  and  the  Fine  Arts.  (',.  da  Caspi — 
portrait  of  Archbishop  Bartollni  Salimhe- 
ni.  Palma  Vecchio — Supper  at  Emmaus. 
Murillo — Virgin  and  Child.  Guercino — 
St.  Peter  resuscitating  Tabitha.  Titian — 
portrait  of  Pietro  Aretino.  Cristoforo 
Allori— the  Hospitality  of  St.  Julian.  T. 
Titi — portrait  of  Prince  Leopold,  afterward 
Cardinal  de'  Medici,  wnen  a  child.  An- 
drea del  Sarto — Deposition  from  the  Cross. 
Raphael — two  portraits  ;  one  of  Maddalena 
Strozzi  Doni,  the  other  of  her  husband  An- 
gelo, painted  when  Raphael  was  but  twen- 
ty-two years  of  age.  These  paintings  are 
very  carefully  preserved,  being  considered 
two  of  the  most  valuable  ornaments  of  the 
gallery.  Baroccio — portrait  of  Prince  Fred- 
erick d'Urbino,  when  a  child.  Giulio  Ro- 
mano— a  copy  of  Raphael's  Madonna  della 
Lucertola.  Raphael — Leo  X..  with  two 
cardinals.  Andrea  del  Sarto — his  own  por- 
trait. Titian — a  Magdalene. 

Hall  of  Venus  (so  called  from  the  alle- 
gorical representation  of  the  triumph  of 
Reason  over  Pleasure — a  youth,  under  the 
figure  of  Cosimo  I.,  is  rescued  from  Venus 
by  Minerva,  and  conveyed  to  Hercules). 
Tintoretto — Cupid  born  of  Venus  and  Vul- 
can. Salvator  Rosa — two  fine  coast  views. 
Rubens  —  two  noble  landscapes.  Rem- 
brandt— portrait  of  an  old  man.  Beleverti 
— Marsyas.  Cigoli — St.  Peter  walking  on 
the  Waters.  Bassano— Martyrdom  of  St. 
Catharine. 

Hall  of  the  Education  of  Jupiter :  here 
arc  some  paintings  which  are  mostly  by 
unknown  artists,  and  not  generally  of  very 
high  standing.  The  Stufa  or  Cabinet, 
which  is  beautifully  frescoed,  contains  two 
bronze  statues  of  Cain  and  Abel  by  Duprc, 
and  a  column  of  black  Egyptian  porphyry. 
The  other  halls  are  quite  interesting  in  their 
specimens  of  paintings  and  statuary,  such  as 
the  WaKofUlysfes,  representing  his  return 
to  Ithaca.  Here  arc  two  splendid  land- 
scapes by  Salvator  Rosa,  and  a  Madonna 
and  Child  by  Titian.  The  next  is  the 
/laW  of  Prometketu,  fr«co;vl  by  Colignon. 
In  the  centre  of  this  room  is  a  magnificent 
mosaic  table  which  cost  nearly  $200,000 : 
nearly  fifteen  years  were  taken  in  complet- 
ing it.  It  was  made  at  the  national  man-. 


FLORENCE. 


[ITALY.] 


FLORKM  K. 


ufactory.  The  room  opening  from  this 
contains  a  splendid  malachite  table,  and  a 
fine  bust  of  Xapoleon  I.,  presented  by  Louis 
Napoleon,  father  of  the  present  emperor,  to 
the  late  grand-duke.  Passing  through  the 
corridor  into  the  SattofJuttiae,  where  there 
are  some  line  paintings  by  Carlo  Dolce, 
we  enter  next  the  Hall  ofCa.nova's  \'enus, 
which  statue  stands  on  a  pivot  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  room.  It  formerly  stood  in  the 
Tribune  where  the  Venus  of  Medici  now 
stands,  that  figure  having  made  the  excur- 
sion to  Paris  to  grace  the  triumphs  of  the 
conqueror  Napoleon.  In  the  next  and 
last  room,  which  contains  numerous  flow- 
er-pieces and  landscapes,  may  be  seen  Sal- 
vator  Rosa's  great  picture  of  Diogenes 
throwing  away  his  cup  on  seeing  a  youth 
drink  water  out  of  his  hand. 

The  Private  Library  has  60,000  volumes, 
and  is  considered  the  most  useful  library 
in  Italy  ;  it  is  very  extensive  in  works  on 
Natural  History.  The  most  of  Galileo's 
MSS.  are  preserved  here. 

Joining  the  palace  are  the  Ftoboli  f!ar- 
>li'it*.  planned  by  II  Tribolo  tinder  ('osimo 
I.  From  the  upper  portion  of  the  ground 
fine  views  of  Florence  may  by  obtained. 
The  beauty  of  this  lovely  spot  is  greatly 
increased  by  the  terraces,  statues,  etc. ;  the 
most  remarkable  of  the  latter  are  four  un- 
finished ones  by  Michael  Angt-Io;  Venus, 
by  Giovanni  Bologna  ;  statue  of  Abun- 
dance, commenced  by  Giovanni  1'ologna 
and  completed  by  Tacca.  The  g  miens  are 
open  to  the  public  only  on  Sundays  and 
Thursdays. 

The  National  Muffim,  situated  in  the 
Palazzo  del  Podesta,  formerly  used  as  a 
prison,  contains  a  collection  of  mediaeval 
and  modern  art.  Open  daily,  fee  1  fr.  ; 
Sundays  free.  The  ground  floor  contains 
specimens  of  weapons.  After  ascending 
the  stairway,  notice  a  bell  in  the  vestibule 
cast  in  1228.  There  are  seven  saloons  on 
the  lirst  floor. filled  with  mediaeval  statuary. 
ancient  furniture,  and  crystal,  cabinets  of 
faience,  and  bronzes  from  the  Uffizi  Gal- 
lery. The  upper  floor  possesses  frescoes 
and  stained-glass  windows. 

The  Acii'lemy  of  the  Fine  Arts  (from  9  to 
3,  Sundays  exeepted)  contains  a  fine  pro- 
gressive series  of  paintings  from  Cimnbue 
to  the  highest  perfection  in  the  art.  The 
entrance  -  hall  contains  busts  of  great 
painters,  and  bas-reliefs  in  terra-cotta  by 


Luca  della  Robia.  The  hall  of  the  great 
pictures  contains  some  120  specimens.  The 
hall  of  ancient  pictures,  artists  unknown  ; 
hall  of  small  pictures  from  the  14th  to  the 
17th  century.  Hall  of  Cartoons  contains 
some  fine  designs  by  Raphael  and  other 
great  masters  ;  and,  on  an  upper  floor,  six 
rooms  containing  modern  Italian  pictures. 
Joining  the  Pitti  Palace  are  the  Muxto 
di  Storia  Naturale  and  Specola.  This  last 
contains  many  objects  of  curiosity  well 
worth  examination  both  by  the  intelligent 
traveler  and  scientist.  To  ladies  we  would 
say.  woman  can  not  sacrifice  her  womanli- 
ness for  science  at  all  times,  and  we  must 
say  it  requires  a  considerable  degree  of  res- 
olution to  overcome  the  feelings  of  repug- 
nance and  shame  that  any  modest  woman 
must  feel  at  entering  this  room  with  a 
promiscuous  party,  although  a  sight  more 
interesting  and  instructive  is  difficult  to 
meet.  In  addition  to  the  well-arranged 
halls,  filled  with  minerals  and  plants, 
many  apartments  are  devoted  to  wax 
models  of  the  human  figure  ;  here  science 
has  laid  bare  the  whole  machinery  of  the 
human  being,  and  all  colored  to  resemble 
nature.  Every  separate  part  of  the  hu- 
man form,  bodies,  legs,  hearts,  lungs,  etc., 
are  displaj'ed  upon  cushions,  some  under 
-•las>;  whole  forms  the  size  of  life,  both 
male  and  female,  lie  exposed  on  white  beds, 
opened  from  the  throat  downward,  ali  laid 
bare.  Youth  and  old  age  as  if  asleep, 
with  the  life-warm  coloring  of  flesh,  veins, 
and  skin. 

The  Tribuna,  dedicated  to  the  memory 
of  Galileo,  which  is  situated  on  the  first 
floor  of  the  building,  contains  three  beau- 
tiful frescoes,  representing  scenes  in  the 
'life  of  the  great  astronomer:  one  shows 
,  him  n  the  Cathedral  at  Pisa  swinging  the 
lamp  which  originated  in  his  mind  tin-  law 
of  mechanics  -  t-Mch  regulated  the  pendu- 
lum; the  second  demonstrating  the  truth 
of  the  telescope  before  the  Doge  and  ( 'oun- 
cil  of  Ten  at  Venice  ;  in  the  third  he  is  r<  p- 
resented  blind,  with  one  hand  on  a  glebe, 
the  other  pointing  to  the  heavens,  and  d  - 
monstrating  to  two  pupils  the  motion  of 
the  heavenly  bodies.  Immediately  under 
the  rotunda  there  is  a  line  white  marble 
I  statue  of  Galileo;  also  one  of  his  linger-, 
encircled  with  a  ring,  pointing  upward  : 
this  last  is  under  a  glass  case.  All  his  in- 
struments are  also  preserved  here.  The 
835  • 


FLORENCE. 


floor  of  this  beautiful  tribune  is  mosaic, 
the  walls  white  marble,  covered  with  ara- 
besques of  birds  and  flowers. 

In  addition  to  the  Patti  Palace,  Uffizi, 
and  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  there  are  sev- 
eral private  galleries,  belonging  to  noble- 
men, which  are  thrown  open  to  the  public, 
many  of  them  containing  very  valuable 
pictures ;  among  these  are  the  Ferroni, 
Corsini,  Strozzi,  and  the  Torrigiani  galler- 
ies. 

The  Egyptian  and  Etruscan  Museum ; 
open  daily  from  9  to  3 ;  fee,  1  fr.  ;  Sun- 
days gratis.  It  is  situated  in  the  Palazzo 
della  Crocetta,  26  Via  della  Colonna. 

The  other  buildings  of  interest  are  the 
Biblioteca  Magliabecchiano,  Royal  Mosaic 
Manufactory,  and  the  charitable  institu- 
tions. In  the  same  building  with  the 
Egyptian  Museum  is  the  Cenacola,  or  Last 
Supper,  by  Raphael,  discovered  in  the  con- 
vent of  San  Onofrio  in  1845. 

Majolica. — Admirers  of  artistic  majolica 
should  not  fail  to  take  a  pleasant  little 
drive  of  half  an  hour  to  the  CantagalK 
majolica  manufactory,  on  the  way  to  the 
Certosa,  just  outside  the  Porla  Romano, 
(Roman  Gate).  They  can  view  here  all 
kinds  of  majolica,  ancient  and  modern  re- 
productions in  every  style,  intended  either 
for  ornament  or  use,  from  the  tiniest  play- 
thing to  massive  vases,  etc.,  of  great  value. 
The  Messrs.  Cantagalli  have  instructed 
most  of  their  own  artists,  and  aro  very 
obliging  in  their  explanations  of  every- 
thing to  the  English  and  American  travel- 
ers, whether  purchasers  or  nor. 


Theatres.  —  They  are  nine  in  number: 
La  Pergola,  under  the  management  of  about 
thirty  proprietors  of  rank,  and  is  called  the 
Grand  Opera  of  Florence ;  it  is  a  fine  hous*, 
and  will  accommodate  about  2500  persons : 
opera  and  ballet.  The  others  are  the  Te- 
atro  del  Cocomero,  for  comedy  and  tragedy ; 
Teatro  Nuovo ;  Teatro  Leopoldo ;  Teatro 
Goldoni;  Pagliano,  etc.  The  prices  of  ad- 
mittance are  low. 

The  Hyde  Park  and  Bois  de  Boulogne  of  j 

the  Florentines  is  the  Cascine,  on  the  pen-  j 

insula  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Arno  j 

and    Mugnone.       This    is    decidedly    the  j 

836 


[ITALY.]  FLORENCE. 

most  charming  drive  and  promenade  in 
Italy.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  dairy- 
houses  of  the  late  grand-duke,  which  are 
situated  near  the  centre  of  the  drive,  and 
which  supply  Florence  with  its  purest  milk 
and  butter.  From  the  Leghorn  railroad 
station,  immediately  outside  the  Porta  al 
Prato,  the  bank  of  the  Arno  is  laid  out  as 
a  beautiful  walk  and  drive,  overshadowed 
by  magniiicent  trees,  for  the  space  of  two 
miles.  About  midwaj'  the  grounds  are 
laid  out  in  a  circle  ;  here,  several  after- 
noons in  the  week,  the  bands  perform,  and 
here  the  fashionables  of  Florence  make 
their  calls.  For  the  space  of  two  or  three 
hours  every  afternoon,  from  the  hours  of 
four  until  seven,  all  Florence — that  is,  all 
of  Florence  that  pretends  to  be  any  body— • 
attend  this  fashionable  exchange  in  all 
manner  of  equipages,  in  numbers  varying 
from  500  to  1000,  and  they  are  not  excelled 
in  stj'le  or  richness  by  any  city  but  Paris 
in  the  world.  Around  the  music  the  car- 
riages all  congregate  ;  gentlemen  descend 
and  visit  their  lady  friends,  and  talk,  gos- 
sip, and  flirt,  or  promenade  along  the  riv- 
er's bank,  where  seats  and  shady  groves  are 
in  abundance  to  supply  the  wants  of  soli- 
taires and  lovers.  The  Cascine  is  arranged 
as  the  Avenue  de  1'Imperatrice,  Paris — 
carriages,  horsemen,  and  pedestrians  have 
each  their  separate  avenues.  Fashionable 
society  of  Florence  cares  not  where  you  live, 
what  you  eat,  or  what  you  wear,  so  long  as 
you  make  your  appearance  at  the  Opera, 
and  drive  your  turn-out  on  the  Cascine — 
both  of  which  are  cheap  enough.  For  $120 
per  month  you  can  hire  a  splendid  turn* 
out,  two  horses,  coachman,  and  footman, 
an  open  carriage  for  Cascine  driving,  and 
a  close  carriage  for  the  Opera.  Your  box 
at  the  Opera,  holding  four  to  eight  per- 
sons, will  cost  $4  to  $5  a  night. 

One  of  the  most  interes-ting  dwellings 
in  Florence  is  the  house  of  Michael  Ange- 
lo,  Palazzo  Buonarotti;  open  to  visitors  on 
Thursdays  :  the  statue  of  Buonarotti,  his 
manuscripts,  sword,  canes,  and  a  portrait 
of  himself.  In  the  chapel  is  a  small  figure 
of  Christ  by  Benvenuto  Cellini,  and  many 
other  relics,  which  will  undoubtedly  inter- 
est the  traveler.  Michael  Angelo  Bin  nn- 
rotti,  the  illustrious  Italian  painter,  fculp- 
tor,  and  architect,  was  born  in  1-174,  Mid 
died  at  Rome  in  1564.  He  has  the  name 
of  the  greatest  designer  that  ever  lived. 


FLORENCE. 


[ITALY.] 


FLORENCE. 


Being  asked  why  he  did  not  marry,  he  an- 
swered, "  Painting  is  my  \vife,and  my  works 
are  my  children."  The  most  celebrated 
of  all  liis  works  is  his  "  Last  Judgment," 
painted  for  Paul  III.  In  architecture  he 
surpassed  all  the  moderns.  St.  Peter's  at 
Koine,  the  Capitol,  and  his  own  house  are 
proofs  of  his  ability.  He  was  also  an  ex- 
cellent poet.  The  walls  of  his  dining-room 
contain  portraits  of  many  of  the  most  cele- 
brated men  of  Tuscany ;  among  them  you 
recognize  Dante,  Petrarch,  Boccaccio,  and 
Savonarola. 

Palazzo  Riccardi,  erected  by  Cosimo  de' 
Medici  in  1430.  Charles  VIII.  of  France, 
Leo  IX.,  and  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  have 
lodged  here.  It  remained  the  property  of 
the  Medici  until  1659,  when  it  was  pur- 
chased by  Marquis  Gabriele  Riccardi.  The 
grand  gallery  is  splendid.  In  the  chapel 
are  some  beautiful  frescoes,  retaining  to  a 
great  extent  their  original  beauty. 

The  Biblioteca  Riccardi,  open  daily  from 
9  to  2,  has  about  30,000  printed  volumes 
and  3500  MSS. 


Edward  Goodban,9  Via  Tornabuoni.is  the 
principal  English  bookseller.  He  is  agent 
for  Harper's  Hand-books,  which  he  sells  at 
the  publishers'  prices.  Good  photographs. 

The  traveler  should  drive  over  the  Viale 
dei  Colli  immediately  on  arriving  in  Flor- 
ence, previous  to  seeing  the  city  in  detail. 
This  is  a  beautiful  new  promenade,  nearly 
three  miles  in  extent,  embracing  lovely 
views  of  the  city. 

Passing  through  the  Porta  Komana,  and 
ascending  a  fine  road,  lined  with  cypress, 
nearly  a  mile,  we  arrive  at  the  Poggio  Im- 
periak,  a  palace  of  the  late  grand -duke. 
It  is  said  to  contain  700  rooms ;  about  one 
half  would  come  nearer  the  number.  A 
short  distance  farther  we  arrive  at  Galileo's 
Tower,  near  which  he  entertained  Milton 
on  the  latter's  visit  to  Florence  after  he 
became  blind  and  was  forgotten  by  his 
former  patrons,  the  Medic-i. 

There  are  numerous  tine  excursions  in 
the  vicinity :  Monte  Oliveto,  which  com- 
mands a  benutiftil  prospect ;  also  Hello 
Squardo,  which  is  reached  by  passing 
through  the  Porta.  Homana. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  to  the  cel- 
ebrated monastery  of  Vallombrosa.  Rail- 
way to  Pontassiece  in  50  minutes  ;  thence 
by  carriage  to  Peliif/o,  5  fr.,  and  mule  to 
Vallombrosa,  5  fr.  The  monastery  is  situ- 
ated 3000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ; 
it  was  founded  by  Giovanni  Gualberto  in 
1050,  and  is  now  occupied  by  a  school  of 
forestry.  There  is  a  small  inn  near. 

While  at  Florence  do  not  omit  to  visit 
the  ancient  town  offiesole,  old  when  Rome 
was  in  its  infancy,  to  reach  which  you  can 
start  from  the  Porta  San  Gallo  or  from  the 
Porta  a  Pint! ;  the  latter  is  preferable  as 
regards  the  road,  bi.t  by  the  former  you 
pass  several  noted  villas:  the  principal  is 
one  in  which  Cosimo  I.  died,  and  a  favorite 
residence  of  Lorenzo  de'  Medici.  We  also 
pass,  among  other  handsome  villas,  that  of 
Signer  Mario,  the  celebrated  singer.  The 
road  from  the  convent  of  San  Domenico  to 
Fiesole,  one  mile  and  a  half,  was  built  at 
837 


FLORENCE. 


[ITALY.] 


FLORENCE. 


the  expense  of  the  ancient  city — not  by 
issuing  shares,  but  by  issuing  patents  of 
nobility ;  and  as  three  hundred  dollars  will 
buy  the  title,  coat-of-arms,  and  seal,  the 
city  has  done  a  fair  business.  They  will 
even  hunt  up  your  genealogy  in  case  you 
should  not  have  one.  Several  Englishmen 
have  invested,  and  numerous  Americans. 
In  the  days  of  Tuscany's  grand -dukes, 
•when  none  but  nobles  were  received  at  ; 
court,  the  stock  paid,  it  is  said,  some  divi-  i 
dend  ;  at  present  it  is  below  par. 

Cabs. — Per  course,  80  c.  inside  the  city ;  j 
first  half-hour,  1  fr.  30  c. ;  each  additional 
half-hour,  70  c.  ;  outside  the  city,  the  first  ! 
half-hour,  2  fr. ;  each  additional  half-hour, 
Ifr. 

For  carriages  \i\  the  day,  arrange  the  i 
price  with  the  hotel  proprietor. 

Bankers.  —  Messrs.  Maquay,  Hooker,  $ 
Co.,  Via  Tornabuoni,  give  the  highest  rates 
of  exchange  on  gold  or  bank-notes,  as  also 
on  letters  of  credit  or  circular  notes  men- 
tioning the  firm  or  not. 

Mosaics.  —  By  far  the  best  house  in 
Florence  for  this  favorite  and  ever-beauti- 
ful work  is  that  of  Mr.  II.  Bosi,  well  known 
throughout  England  and  America,  and  now 
for  many  years  furnisher  to  all  the  courts 
of  Europe.  His  establishment,  at  1  Piazza 
Santa  Trinita,  corner  of  Via  Tornabuoni, 
is  well  worth  a  visit.  Every  article  is  of 
the  finest  description,  and  marked  in  in- 
variable figures. 

Nouveautes,  Modes,  etc. — ' '  A  la  Ville  de 
Lyon,"  2  Piazza  San  Gaetano,  is  the  first 
house  in  Florence  for  the  above.  French 
dressmakers  and  milliners  are  employed, 
and  the  best  materials  used  in  the  latest 
fashions. 

Restaurant. — The  best,  and  one  of  the 
most  noted  in  Italy,  is  the  Restaurant  Do- 
ney  et  Neveux,  16  Via  Tornabuoni,  where, 
in  addition  to  the  best  French  cuisine,  ex- 
cellent wines,  and  good  attendance,  a  la 
carte,  a  table  d'hote  is  served.  No  connec- 
tion with  Cafe  Doney,  next  door. 


Florence  to  Rome.  Time,  7  h.  35  m.  ; 
fare,  first  class,  34  fr.  50  c. ;  second  class, 
23  fr.  70  c. 

Florence  to  Paris.  Time,  33  h.  49  in. ; 
fare,  first  class,  145  fr.  GO  c. ;  second  class, 
113  fr.  75  c. 

Florence  to  Turin.  Time,  11  h.  25  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  52  fr.  10  c. ;  second  class, 
36  fr.  95  c. 

Florence  to  Bologna.  Time,  5  h.  24  m. ; 
fare,  first  class,  13  fr.  80  c. ;  second  class, 
11  fr.  20  c. 

Rome  can  be  reached  by  three  different 
routes : 

1.  (The  most  direct  route.)    Via  Arez- 
zo,  Perugia,  Foligno,  Spello,  Spoleto,  and 
Terni. 

Express  train  leaves  Florence  at  8.30 
A.M.,  and  arrives  at  Rome  at  4.32  P.M., 
in  8  hours ;  fare,  first  class,  34  fr.  50  c. ; 
second  class,  23  fr.  70  c. 

2.  Via  Empoli,  Pisa,  Leghorn,  Grosseto, 
and  Civita  Vecchia. 

Express  train  leaves  Florence  at  9.15 
A.M.,  and  arrives  at  Rome  at  9  P.M.,  in 
11  h.  45  m. 

For  description  of  towns  on  this  route, 
see  Index. 

3.  Via  Empoli,  Siena,  Orvieto,  and  Ba- 
schi. 


838 


ROUTE  No.  218. 

Florence  to  Rome,  via  Arezzo,  Perugia, 
Foligno,  Spello,  and  Terni.  Time,  7  h.  35  m. ; 
fare,  first  class  (express),  34  fr.  50  c. ;  sec- 
ond class,  23  fr.  70  c.  (This  is  the  most 


AKKZZO. 


direct  route,  and  the  one  usually  taken  by 
travelers.) 

Supposing  the  traveler  is  starting  from 
Florence  via  Arezzo  and  Perugia,  in  1  h. 
l-l  in.  Montevanchi  is  passed,  a  town  of 
10,000  inhabitants,  in  the  vicinity  of  which 
remains  of  the  elephant,  hippopotamus,  and 
mastodon  have  been  discovered :  a  collec- 
tion of  the  fossil  remains  of  these,  and  oth- 
er animals  extinct  in  Italy,  may  be  seen  in 
the  museum  of  the  town.  In  2  h.  45  m. 
Arezzo  is  reached.  This  town,  containing 
10,000  inhabitants,  is  situated  in  a  beauti- 
ful and  fertile  district,  the  Arretium  of  the 
Koznans.  Hotels,  Victoria  and  Inghilterra. 

Arezzo  is  one  of  the  12  confederate  cit- 
ies of  ancient  Etruria,  and  is  rich  in  histor- 
ical associations.  It  was  the  birthplace 
of  main-  celebrities  in  literature  and  art. 
Here  Petrarch  was  born,  July  20, 1304,  his 
parents  having  been  expelled  from  Flor- 
ence for  political  intrigues.  The  house  in 
which  he  was  born  is  shown  in  the  Via  dell' 
Orto.  Here  also  Mecaenas,  the  friend  of 
Augustus,  of  Virgil,  and  of  Horace,  was 
born.  Vasari,  Pietro  Benvenuti,  and  Leon- 
ardo Aretino  were  also  natives  of  this  town. 

The  principal  object  of  attraction  is  the 
loggie  of  Vasari,  which  is  considered  the 
masterpiece  of  that  famous  architect :  it  is 
situated  on  the  Piazza  Grande.  The  Duomo 
in  the  upper  town  is  a  remarkable  speci- 
men of  Italian  Gothic  architecture  of  the 
thirteenth  century  :  its  principal  attrac- 
tions are  its  stained  windows,  whicli  date 
from  the  fourteenth  century,  and  repre- 
sent scenes  in  the  life  of  the  famous  and 
warlike.  Bishop  Tarlati  di  Pietramala,  who 
distinguished  himself  as  a  conqueror,  and 
who  afterward  crowned  the  Emperor  Louis 
in  Milan.  His  tomb,  and  that  of  Pope 
Gregory  X.,  are  the  prominent  objects  of 
interest  in  the  church.  The  paintings  of 
the  Martyrdom  ofSt.Donato  by  Benvenuti, 
also  his  Judith  and  Holofernes,  are  consid- 
ered line  works  of  art.  Here  also  may  In- 
seen  a  masterpiece  of  Sabatelli  called  the 
Abigail.  In  the  square  of  the  Cathedral  is 
a  marble  statue  of  Ferdinand  di  Medici  by 
Giovanni  da  Bologna.  The  Church  of  St. 
Maria  dell  i  Pieve  was  erected  on  tin-  site 
of  a  temple  of  Bacchus  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  ninth  century.  Tim  columns 
of  the  facade  are  distributed  in  a  very  pe- 
culiar manner.  Over  the  high-altar  is  a 
beautiful  picture  of  St.  George  by  Vasari ; 


[ITALY.]  I'EHKUA. 

also  an  altar-piece,  in  sections,  by  Pietro 
Laurati.  The  Church,  of  San  Francesco,  in 
the  Via  Cavour,  contains  some  very  good 
frescoes.  There  are  several  other  church- 
es, but  none  of  much  importance. 

The.  Mn.ifiim,  which  i.s  situated  on  the 
first  floor  of  the  edifice  known  as  the  Fra- 
ternita  della  -Misericordia,  and  which  con- 
tains fossils,  vases,  bronzes,  and  mediaeval 
seals,  is  worth  visiting.  There  is  also  a 
very  good  library  on  the  first  floor. 

Three  hours  from  Florence,  Cortona,  a 
small  town  in  the  tine  valley  of  Chiana, 
is  reached.  There  is  but  little  to  induce 
the  traveler  to  stop  here,  either  in  "  sights" 
or  accommodation.  It  is  noted  principally 
as  being  one  of  the  12  confederate  towns  of 
Etruria.  There  is  the  usual  cathedral  and 
other  churches.  In  the  Museum  is  a  fair 
collection  of  Etruscan  antiquities.  From 
the  church  and  monastery  of  St.  Margheri- 
ta  a  beautiful  view  may  be  obtained  of  the 
Lake  Trasimene,  the  ancient  Lacus  Trasi- 
menus,  noted  for  the  sanguinary  and  mem- 
orable battle  fought  on  its  banks  between 
the  Carthaginians  under  Hannibal  and  tho 
Romans  under  the  Consul  C.  Flaminius  in 
the  year  217  B.C.,  in  which  the  latter  wer« 
defeated  with  fearful  slaughter,  although 
they  fought  desperately,  and  while  an 
earthquake  was  taking  place — 

"Like  to  a  forest  filled  by  mountain  winds. 
And  such  the  storm  of  battle  on  this  day, 
And  such  the  frenzy  whose  convulsions 

blinds 

To  all  save  carnage,  that  beneath  the  fray 
An  earthquake  rolled  nnheedingly  away ! 

"None  felt  stern  Nature  rocking  at  his  feet, 
And  gaping  forth  a  grave  for  those  who 

lay 

T'pon  their  bucklers  for  a  winding-sheet: 
Such  is  the  absorbing  hate  when  warring 
nations  meet." 

From  the  River  Gualandro  two  small 
streams  fall  into  the  lake,  one  of  which  is 
called  Sanguinetto,  in  recollection  of  the 
streams  of  blood  which  flowed  into  tho 
lake.  There  are  three  small  islands  in  the 
lake,  one  of  which,  Isola  Maggiore,  con- 
tains a  convent. 

I'i  ft/gin,  the  next  place  of  importance,  is 
finely  situated  above  the  valley  of  the  Ti- 
ber. This  was  another  of  the  twelve  Etrus- 
can confederate  cities  which  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Romans.  It  contains  a  pop- 
ulation of  19,500  souls.  Hotels,  /  fella  Potta, 
Tnisimerv),  and  Grand  Hotel  tie,  Perugia. 
839 


FEKUGIA. 


[ITALY.] 


PERUGIA. 


Perugia  was  reduced  to  starvation  by  the 
Emperor  Augustus  in  his  war  with  Mark 
Antony,  but  was  burnt  to  ashes  by  the  ad- 
herents of  the  latter,  to  prevent  it  from  fall- 
ing into  the  hands  of  the  Roman  Empire ; 
it  was  rebuilt  by  Augustus  as  a  Roman  col- 
on}', but  was  again  destroyed  in  the  sixth 
century  by  the  Goth  Totila,  after  a  siege 
of  seven  years.  It  was  again  captured  by 
Braccio  da  Montone  in  1416.  After  his 
death  the  city  came  into  possession  of  the 
Pope,  and  was  governed  in  his  interest  by 
the  Baglioni  family,  who  in  time  rebelled, 
but  it  was  finally  conquered  by  Paul  III., 
since  which  time  it  has  mostly  remained 
under  the  authority  of  the  popes.  During 
different  centuries  the  plague  committed 
fearful  ravages  among  its  population,  that 
of  1348  destroying  100,000  alone. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Lorenzo,  situated  at 
the  end  of  the  Corso,  was  finished  (that  is, 
the  interior :  the  outside  of  Italian  church- 
es seldom  are  finished)  about  the  close  of 
the  fifteenth  century.  One  of  the  chapels 
on  the  right  aisle  contains  a  Descent  from 
the  Cross,  the  masterpiece  of  Baroccio.  It 
had  the  honor  of  being  conveyed  to  Paris 
in  1797,  but  was  returned  in  1815.  Near 
the  high  altar  is  a  sarcophagus  containing 
the  remains  of  the  popes  Innocent  II.,  Ur- 
ban IV.,  and  Martin  IV.  Notice  the  beau- 
tiful altar-piece  by  Signorelli. 

Directly  opposite  the  Cathedral,  in  the 
Palazzo  Conestabile.  may  be  seen  a  small 
Madonni  by  Raphael,  a  St. Rosalia  by  Sas- 
soferrato,  and  several  frescoes  by  Perugino. 

A  road  from  the  rear  of  the  Cathedral 
leads  to  the  Arco  di  Auyusto,  the  ancient 
gateway,  with  the  inscription  Augusta  Pe- 
rusia.  The  foundations  and  the  remains 
of  the  wall  are  of  the  Etruscan  period.  A 
short  distance  from  the  Arco,  to  the  left,  is 
the  University  Building,  where  there  is  a 
Picture  Gallery,  a  Museum  of  Etruscan  and 
Roman  antiquities,  a  Scientific  Collection, 
and  Botanic  Garden.  The  pictures  are 
mostly  from  suppressed  churches  and  mon- 
asteries. There  are  a  great  number  of 
Perugino's  works  here,  a  Madonna  by  Ra- 
phael, and  a  Holy  Family  drawn  by  the 
same  artist. 

The  keys  of  the  chapel  in  St.  Severo  may 
be  had  at  the  University  to  see  Raphael's 
first  frescoes,  now  much  damaged. 

After  having  visited  the  Piazza  del  So- 
pramuro  and  the  Fortezxa,  descend  to  the 
840 


suburb  and  Church  of  San  Domenico,  a 
church  of  the  fourteenth  century,  rebuilt 
in  the  seventeenth  :  the  choir  and  a  Goth- 
ic window  of  the  old  edifice  alone  remain. 
Notice,  in  the  left  transept,  a  monument 
erected  to  Pope  Benedict  XI.,  who  was 
poisoned  by  eating  figs  at  the  suggestion 
of  Philip  IV. 

The  Church  ofSt.Pietro  de  Casinensi  will 
well  repay  a  visit.  It  contains  numerous 
pictures  by  Perugino,  a  Holy  Family  by 
Purmeggianino,  a  Jesus  and  John  by  Ra- 
phael, said  to  be  a  copy  from  Perugino. 
Notice  the  choir-stalls  carved  by  Stefimo 
da  Bergamo,  from  designs  by  Raphael. 
There  are  numerous  other  churches  of  more 
or  less  importance,  amounting  to  over  one 
hundred  in  number.  One  of  the  most  in- 
teresting objects  of  attention  in  Perugia  is 
the  Necropolis,  discovered  in  1840.  The 
principal  tomb,  called  Grotta  di  Volunni, 
will  well  repay  a  visit.  It  is  about  three 
miles  distant  from  the  town,  and  consists  of 
ten  chambers  cut  out  of  the  tuffstone  of 
the  hill ;  they  are  all  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation.  The  inscriptions  are  in  Lat- 
in and  Etruscan.  There  are  several  pri- 
vate collections  of  pictures  and  antiquities 
in  Perugia  that  the  valet- de- place  will 
point  out. 

Some  eight  miles  from  Perugia  we  pass 
the  boundary  of  Etruria,  here  crossing  the 
Tiber.  The  view  from  this  spot  is  ex- 
tremely beautiful  in  every  direction. 

At  the  Assisi  Railway  Station  convey- 
ances will  be  found  to  drive  to  the  town. 
The  principal  object  of  attraction  here  is 
the  Monastery  of  the  Franciscans,  founded 
by  St.  Francis,  who  was  born  in  Assisi  in 
1182 :  he  was  the  originator,  and  died  in 
1226,  and  was  canonized  by  Gregory  IX. 
Ladies  are  not  admitted.  There  are  two 
churches  which  the  monastery  surrounds 
boldly  erected  against  the  solid  rock  of  the 
hill,  much  resembling  in  appearance  the 
Convent  of  Mar  Saba,  on  the  way  from 
Jerusalem  to  the  Dead  Sea.  The  lower 
church  is  dark,  gloomy,  and  morose,  and 
immediately  over  this  is  the  other,  vast, 
light,  and  airy,  presenting  a  view  to  the 
outside  beholder  seldom  surpassed  in  any 
country.  Travelers  who  are  compelled  to 
spend  the  night  without  proceeding  on  their 
journey,  had  better,  if  going  to  Rome,  pro- 
ceed by  carriage  to  Foligno,  where  there  is 
a  comfortable  inn  (there  is  none  at  Assisi); 


FOLIGXO. 


[ITALY.] 


BOROHETTO. 


or,  if  coming  from  Rome,  they  had  better 
make  their  arrangements  at  Foligno,  but 
visit  the  convent  by  all  means. 

After  passing  Spello,  a  small  town  of 
3000  inhabitants,  we  arrive  at  Foliyno,  an 
episcopal  residence  of  13,01)0  inhabitant-. 
Hotel  I'ostu,  the  best.  The  town  is  situ- 
ated in  the  midst  of  the  fertile  district,  but 
has  suffered  considerable  from  three  or  four 
earthquakes  during  the  present  century. 
There  is  little  to  detain  the  traveler  here. 
We  next  pass  the  small  town  of  Trevi,  the 
ancient  Trebia. 

In  the  Church  of  the  Madonna  della  Le- 
grime  may  be  seen  the  finest  frescoes  of 
Perugino.  Outside  the  gate  the  Church 
of  St.  Martino  may  be  found,  containing 
some  very  fine  pictures.  From  Trevi  to 
S pi ilet o,  the  next  station,  would  well  repay 
a  drive.  The  train,  however,  does  not  gen- 
erally stop  at  Trevi.  The  distance  is  only 
ten  miles,  through  a  beautiful  and  richly 
cultivated  country.  Passing  the  River 
Clitumnus,  whose  source  is  near  the  small 
village  Le  Vene,  may  be  seen  the  Temple, 
usually  mentioned  as  that  of  the  Clitumnus 
spoken  of  by  Pliny.  It  is  now  used  as  a 
church,  and  must  always  have  l>een  a 
Christian  edifice,  as  the  emblems,  the  vine 
and  cross,  testifv. 

Spoleto,  the  ancient  Spoletium  of  the  Ro- 
mans, contains  11,000  inhabitants.  Inns, 
Posta  and  Albergo  Xuovo. 

The  town  is  historically  noted  for  hav- 
ing repelled  the  attack  of  Hannibal's  army 
after  its  victory  at  Trasimenc  Lake.  It 
suffered  much  during  the  civil  wars  of  j 
Sulla  and  Marius,  also  during  the  inva.-inn 
of  the  Goths  after  the  fall  of  the  Western 
Kmpiro.  It  was  incorporated  in  tin  S 
of  the  Church  by  Innocent  III.  Its  castle, 
originally  built  by  Thcodoric  the  Great, 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Piedmontese  aft- 
er a  most  gallant  resistance  by  its  com- 
mander. Major  O'Reilly,  an  Iri-hinan. 

The  Cathedral  of  Saint  Maria  Asam/di. 
erected  originally  in  the  seventh  century, 
but  several  times  restored.  Notice  above 
the  entrance  a  large  mosaic  of  Christ,  with 
Mary  and  John,  by  Salsernu*.  In  the 
choir  are  several  frescoes  by  Fra  Filippo 
Tippi.  The  winter  choir  is  ornamented  by 
carvin_-s  by  Bramante  and  painting  1  \- 
La  Spagna.  Notice  at  the  entrance  to  the 
chapel  the  tomb  of  a  celebrated  painter 
who  died  here  by  poison  administered  by  | 


the  family  of  a  noble  lady  whose  affections 
lie  had  gained,  and  whom  he  had  abducted 
from  her  convent. 

There  arc  numerous  other  churches,  but 
none  of  any  special  importance. 

A  beautiful  view  of  the  surrounding 
country  may  be  had  from  the  Fortress,  now 
a  prison,  or  from  Monte  Luco. 

There  are  several  Roman  remains  in 
Spoleto  not  of  much  importance. 

Terni.  Hotels,  Tre  Colonne  and  Europa. 
This  town  is  noted  principally  for  being  the 
birthplace  of  the  historian  Tacitus,  also  of 
the  emperors  Tacitus  and  Florianus.  The. 
Roman  Amphitheatre  is  the  principal  ob- 
ject of  attraction  in  the  town,  but  the  Falls 
of  Tfrni,  at  a  distance  of  five  miles,  is  the 
great  attraction  of  the  place.  Carriages 
or  donkeys  may  be  employed  at  the  hotels, 
but  be  certain  you  make  a  bargain  for  the 
same,  else  you  will  be  swindled.  Take 
plenty  of  sous,  as  beggars  arc  as  bad  as  at 
Pompeii,  the  worst  in  Italy.  The  Falls  of 
Terni,  with  the  Falls  of  Tivoli,  are  the  two 
finest  artificial  falls  in  the  world.  There 
are  three  series  of  falls,  in  all  about  600  feet 
in  height,  often  erroneous!}'  stated  at  800. 
The  traveler  should  first  visit  the  Upper 
Falls,  and  then  descend  to  the  road,  where 
his  carriage  should  meet  him.  The  dis- 
tance from  Terni  to  Narni  is  8  miles. 

Xarni  is  situated  on  an  elevated  rock  on 
the  Nera,  where  that  river  forces  its  way 
through  a  narrow  ravine  down  to  the  Ti- 
ber. It  contains  about  8500  inhabitants. 
and  is  principally  known  as  the  birthplace 
of  the  Emperor  Ncrva.  Krasmus  of  Narni, 
and  Pope  John  XIII. 

The  Cathedral  was  erected  in  the  ir.th 
century,  and  is  a  fair  specimen  of  the  archi- 
tecture of  that  period.  The  ^^(>nastery  con- 
tains the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  by  La 
Sp.-iL'na,  long  thought  to  be  by  Raphael. 

A  short  distance  from  Narni  the  train 
passes  the  Bridge  of  A  vyustus,  a  fine  speci- 
men of  Roman  architecture.  It  was  built 
for  the  Via  Flaminia  from  Rome  to  Bevagna. 
The  arch  on  the  left  bank  is  60  feet  high. 

Ortf,  formerly  the  frontier  of  the  Papal 
States  before  the  unity  of  Italy,  is  finely 
situated  on  a  high  bank  of  the  Tiber,  but 
contains  no  objects  of  interest. 

Borghetto,  the  last  stopping-place  of  the 
express  train,  and  1  h.  25  m.  from  Rome. 
The  town  is  commanded  by  a  fine  ruined 
castle.     No  sights  of  importance. 
841 


LEGHORN. 

Rome.     See  Index. 


[ITALY.] 


CIVITA  VECCHIA. 


ROUTE  No.  219. 

Florence  to  Home,  via  Pisa,  Cecina,  Follo- 
nica,  Grosselo,  Orbilello,  and  Civitti  Vecchia. 
Time,  11  h.  15  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  45  fr. 
25  c. ;  second  class,  32  fr.  55  c.  (As  this 
route  is  longer,  as  expensive,  with  less  to  be 
seen  than  that  by  Foligno,  it  is  not  to  be 
preferred.)  Time  to  Leghorn,  2  h.  45  m. 

Empoli.     See  Route  No.  220. 

Leghorn,  a  city  and  seaport,  is  the  prin- 
cipal emporium  of  Italy  in  the  late  grand- 
duchy  of  Tuscany.  It  has  a  population  of 
97,000.  Principal  hotel,  and  the  only  good 
one  in  the  city  is  the  Grand,  in  a  large 
garden,  and  with  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
sea.  Leghorn  (in  French  Livourne,  in 
Italian  Livorno)  ranks  as  a  sea-port  with 
Marseilles,  Naples,  Genoa,  and  Smyrna. 
It  is  a  neat,  clean,  and  well-built  city,  and 
shows  much  activity  among  its  inhabitants. 
It  owes  its  eminence  and  prosperity  main- 
ly to  the  Medici  family.  Leghorn  has  been 
greatly  enlarged  within  a  few  years  past 
by  leveling  the  old  fortifications,  and  in- 
cluding the  suburbs  within  the  walls.  It 
has  a  large  coral  fishery,  and  its  inhabit- 
ants are  mostly  engaged  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  woolen  caps,  straw  hats,  ylass.  pa- 
per, starch,  soap,  cream  of  tartar,  etc.  The 
public  and  private  buildings  do  not  re- 
quire particular  notice;  they  are  useful, 
but  not  ornamental.  The  principal  ones 
are  the  two  Greek  churches,  and  those  of 
other  denominations,  a  large  synagogue 
(next  in  size  to  that  of  Amsterdam),  three 
hospitals,  female  charity-school  of  St.  Pe- 
ter and  St.  Paul,  a  mosque,  theatre,  etc. ; 
it  has  also  an  old  castle  constructed  by 
Ferdinand  I.,  a  work-house,  savings'  bank, 
large  public  school  containing  350  pupils, 
schools  of  navigation,  architecture,  paint- 
ing, academy  of  sciences,  letters,  and  arts, 
with  a  library  of  6000  volumes. 

One  of  the  principal  works  of  art  in  the 
city  is  the  fine  marble  statue  of  Ferdinand 
I.  supported  by  four  kneeling  figures  in 
bronze.  The  cemeteries  contain  some  good 
specimens  of  sculpture.  In  the  Campo 
Ingkse  are  interred  the  remains  of  Smol- 
lett, and  several  other  distinguished  En- 
glishmen. Upon  a  hill  near  the  city  is 
the  monastery  of  Monte  Aero,  in  which  is 
a  celebrated  picture  of  the  Virgin,  said  to 
have  been  idolized  by  the  people  of  Leg- 
812 


horn  for  500  years.  The  view  from  the 
monastery  is  very  fine. 

Leghorn  is  a  favorite  sea-bathing  place 
for  many  of  the  inhabitants  of  Tuscany. 
The  season  is  June,  July,  and  August. 
There  are  warm  baths  in  the  vicinity  of 
£.  Marco. 

The  railway  has  recently  been  finished 
from  Leghorn  to  Home,  via  Cecina,  Folfon- 
ic  i,  Gross  to,  Orbitello,  and  Ciiita  I'ccchia. 
The  opening  of  this  road  obviates  the  ne- 
cessity of  taking  a  steamer  to  Civita  Vec- 
chia, and  the  tedious  and  annoying  process 
of  embarking  and  disembarking. 

The  Maremma  railroad,  which  takes  its 
name  from  the  district  through  which  it 
passes,  follows  nearly  the  route  of  the  an- 
cient Via  Aurelia  built  by  JKmilius  Scau- 
rus.  The  towns  through  which  it  passes 
are  not  so  important,  neither  is  the  scenery 
so  picturesque,  as  the  route  from  Florence 
via  Arezzo,  Perugia,  and  Foligno ;  still  it 
would  be  better  to  go  one  way  and  return 
the  other.  The  train  usually  leaves  Leg- 
horn about  noon.  It  would  be  better  to 
avoid  this  route  during  the  summer  months 
— that  is,  July,  August,  and  September — 
as  during  this  period  the  malaria  exists  to 
such  a  degree  that  nearly  all  the  inhabit- 
ants of  the  towns  on  the  line  leave  for  the 
mountains. 

The  Maremma  district  during  the  Etrus- 
can period  was  one  of  the  most  highly  cul- 
tivated districts  in  Italy;  when  agricul- 
ture declined  and  the  coast  became  pasture 
lands,  its  waters  soon  became  stagnant  and 
poisonous.  The  present  government,  how- 
ever, is  doing  much  to  remedy  the  evil. 

The  principal  towns  on  the  route  are  Ce- 
cina (nothing  of  interest),  Follonica,  con- 
taining numerous  smelting-foundries,  Gros- 
selo,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Maremma, 
and  Orbitello,  only  noted  for  its  vicinity  to 
the  Cosae  of  Virgil,  about  four  miles  from 
the  town.  For  Civita  Vecchia,  see  Index. 

Civita  Vecchia,  a  town  of  Etruscan  ori- 
gin, and  in  the  times  of  Etruscan  prosperi- 
ty the  principal  sea-port  and  naval  power 
of  Central  Italy,  is  now  only  a  stopping- 
place  on  the  road  to  Rome.  It  contains  no 
monuments  of  note  except  the  mole  and 
breakwater  forming  the  port,  which  were 
the  work  of  Hadrian.  Eight  miles  north 
is  Corneto,  built  near  the  site  of  the  an- 
cient Tarquinia,  from  which  it  was  colo- 
nized. Here  may  be  seen  some  exceed^ 


EMPOLI. 


[ITALY.] 


SIENA. 


ingly  interesting  Etruscan  tombs.  The  ! 
railway  from  Civita  Vecchia  to  Home  fol- 
lows the  coast,  passing  the  site  of  Pyrgi. 
a  jiowerful  Etru>can  maritime  town  (non- 
Santa  Severa)  only  a  few  miles  from  Civi- 
ta Vecchia  ;  and  half  way  to  Rome  it  pass- 
es Cer\vtri  i^the  ancient  Care),  a  town 
noted  as  the  place  of  refuge  of  the  vestal 
virgins  who  escaped  from  Home  when  it 
was  taken  by  the  Gauls.  At  Palo  the  road 
leaves  the  coast,  and  soon  strikes  the  val- 
ley of  the  Tiber,  which  it  follows  to  Rome, 
a  distance  of  45  miles. 
Home.  See  Index. 


ROUTE  Xo.  220. 

Florence  to  Rome,  via  Empoli,  Siena,  Or- 
vieto,  and  Viterbo.     Time,  10  hours;  fare, 
first  class,  38  fr.  65  c. ;  second  class,  27  fr.  I 
30  c. 

Florence  to  Siena.  Time,  3  h.  30  m. ; 
fare,  first  class.  10  fr.  15  c. 

Empo'.i,  a  small  town  in  the  midst  of  a 
•well -cultivated  district,  contains  nothing 
of  importance. 

Certaldo  station.  The  town  on  the  left 
•was  the  birthplace  of  the  Florentine  poet 
Hoccuccio.  His  tomb  was  formerly  in  the 
church  of  .S.  Mickek  e  Giacomn,  on  which 
stood  his  statue  with  a  copy  of  the  "De- 
cameron" in  his  hand.  His  house  was  re- 
stored some  fifty  years  ago. 

Poggibonsi  station.  [About  3J  hours  to 
the  west  (carriage  16  fr.)  is  the  town  of 
Volterra  (hotel,  Nazionale),  containing  6500 
inhabitants.  The  town  and  its  relics  are 
essentially  Etruscan.  It  was  one  of  the 
twelve  confederate  cities  of  Etruria,  but 
afterward  became  a  Roman  municipium, 
and  was  completely  destroyed  in  the  10th 
century.  It  was  rebuilt  under  the  first 
Otho,  became  a  free  town  in  the  Middle 
Ages,  and  its  strong  position  made  it  the 
scene  of  continual  strife  between  the  re- 
publics of  Florence,  Pisa,  and  Siena  ;  but  it 
gradually  fell  under  the  sway  of  Florence, 


from  which  time  its  history  has  been  Flor- 
entine. Its  wails  were  once  over  six 
miles  in  circumference,  portions  of  them 
may  be  seen  near  the  Porta  Sun  Francesco. 
They  were  forty  feet  in  height  and  fourteen 
thick. 

Outside  the  Porta  di  Diana  stood  the 
ancient  Xecropvlis.  Many  of  the  curiosi- 
ties in  the  Museum  were  found  here. 

The  Miueo  Civico,  in  the  Palazzo  Publico, 
contains  in  ten  rooms  a  vast  collection  of 
statues,  bronzes,  coins,  and  numerous  other 
specimens  of  Etruscan  art,  dating  from  sev- 
eral centuries  before  the  Christian  era. 

In  the  Sa'n  de  In  Mngistrutiora  is  a  li- 
brary of  16,000  volumes. 

The  Cathedral  was  consecrated  in  the 
12th  century,  but  was  enlarged  and  re- 
stored by  Xicolo  Pisuno  in  1254,  and  again 
embellished  in  the  16th  century.  Its  in- 
terior sculpture  and  decorations  are  very 
fine.  The  churches  otSS.  Francesco,  Lino, 
and  Giovanni  contain  frescoes,  sculpture, 
and  monuments. 

The  Citadel  is  now  used  as  a  house  of 
correction.  The  Palazzo  Inghirami  con- 
tains a  collection  of  pictures,  among  which 
is  a  portrait  by  Raphael. 

In  the  Casa  RicciartUi,  Daniele  da  V«l- 
terra,  the  celebrated  pupil  of  Michael  An- 
gelo,  was  born  in  1509.  The  house  is  still 
in  possession  of  the  family. 

The  alabaster  works  of  Volterra  are 
quite  celebrated. 

There  is  a  diligence  road  from  Volterra 
to  Siena  ;  distance  31  miles. 

Eleven  miles  from  Volterra  are  the  cop- 
per-mines of  La  Cam,  which  have  been 
worked  for  the  last  400  years.] 

Siena.  —  Hotels,  A  Ibergo  Reale,  A  quila 
Nera,anAScala.  Population,  24,000.  The 
seat  of  an  archbishop  and  a  university. 
Its  streets  are  narrow  and  the  houses  ill 
built,  but  it  contains  a  beautiful  Cathedral. 
There  are  numerous  private  palaces  rich  in 
works  of  art.  The  principal  public  one  is 
the  Palazzo  Publico.  In  the  12th  century 
the  town  was  of  great  importance,  and  con- 
tained 200,000  inhabitants,  and  it  is  to-day 
one  of  the  most  interesting  cities  in  Italy 
for  the  student  of  art  of  tho  14th,  15th,  and 
IGth  centuries.  The  position  of  the  town 
is  hi^h,  and  the  climate  healthy. 

Siena  was  founded  by  the  Gauls,  but 
converted  into  a  Roman  colony  by  Augus- 
tus. In  the  12th  century  it  became  a  free 
843 


SIENA. 


[ITALY.] 


MONTE  PULCIANO. 


city,  drove  out  its  nobility,  and  united  with 
the  Gbibelines  from  Florence,  and  gained 
a  great  victory  over  the  Guelphs  at  Monte 
Aperto,  near  the  city.  For  a  long  time 
the  citizens  guarded  well  their  liberties, 
and  the  city  became  one  of  the  first  in  the 
peninsula  in  wealth  and  population.  Dur- 
ing the  16th  century  tyrants  again  usurp- 
ed its  rights,  and  through  the  wicked  in- 
fluence of  one  of  its  citizens,  Pandolfo  Pe- 
trucci,  the  Medici  of  Florence  gained  com- 
plete sovereignty  over  the  city. 

In  the  Piazza  Vittore  Emanuele,  where 
horse-fairs  are  held  July  2  and  August  15, 
stands  the  Palazzo  Publico,  built  after  the 
great  plague  in  1348,  which  destroyed 
30,000  of  the  citizens.  It  is  open  daily 
(fee  1  fr.),  and  contains  many  valuable 
frescoes. 

The  Institute  dette  Belle  Arti  contains  a 
collection  of  pictures  of  the  old  Sienese 
school.  It  is  open  gratis  every  day,  ex- 
cept holidays,  from  9  to  3. 

The  Cathedral  is  situated  on  the  highest 
point  in  Siena;  was  commenced  in  1059, 
and  consecrated  in  1179.  It  was  built  on 
the  site  of  a  former  temple  of  Minerva. 
The  present  church  is  only  the  transept  of 
a  much  larger  design,  which  was  never 
completed.  The  facade  is  from  designs 
by  Xicolo  Pisano,  and  is  a  combination  of 
red,  white,  and  black  marbles  in  the  point- 
ed and  circular  styles,  with  numerous  or- 
naments and  sculptures.  The  interior  con- 
tains clustered  columns,  with  capitals  orna- 
mented with  foliage  and  figures.  Above 
the  arches  in  the  nave  are  busts  of  popes 
down  to  Alexander  III.  Pope  Zacharias 
has  replaced  that  of  Pope  Joan.  The  pave- 
ment is  inlaid,  representing  scenes  from 
the  New  Testament.  The  roof  is  painted 
blue,  and  studded  with  gold  stars.  The 
choir  contains  some  fine  sculpture  by 
Riccio.  The  tabernacle  is  in  bronze  by 
Lorenzo,  da  Pietro,  and  the  pulpit  of  white 
marble  by  Nicolo  Pisano. 

In  the  chapel  of  St.  John  there  is  a  fine 
figure  of  that  saint  by  Donatella.  The  chap- 
el of  S.  Ansano  contains  a  picture  of  the 
Madonna  and  Child,  painted  in  1311.  The 
painted-glass  windows  are  very  fine,  and 
some  of  them  date  from  the  middle  of  the 
16th  century. 

The  Library  is  adorned  with  ten  beauti- 
ful frescoes  by  Bernardino  de  Betlo,  a  fel- 
low-pupil of  Raphael  under  Perugino,  and 
844 


it  is  believed  that  Raphael  assisted  in  their 
design. 

There  are  several  monuments  by  Michael 
Angela.  The  altar  dedicated  to  the  Picco- 
lomini  family  (Pope  Pius  II.),  etc. 

Under  the  choir  of  the  Duomo  is  the 
church  of  St.  John,  formerly  the  Baptistery. 
The  font  contains  some  fine  sculptures. 

Opera  del  Duomo  possesses  some  fine 
sculptures  and  frescoes. 

Opposite  the  Cathedral  is  the  hospital  of 
Pellenrinajo,  whose  church  contains  some 
fine  frescoes  by  Domenico  Bartoli. 

There  are  numerous  other  churches  de- 
serving of  notice,  if  the  traveler  intends 
remaining  some  days ;  notable  those  ofSS. 
Domenico,  Agostino,  Francesco,  Martina, 
and  Spiritu. 

The  palaces  of  Siena  are  not  numerous, 
nor  do  they  contain  collections  of  art. 
They  are  only  interesting  in  regard  to 
their  architecture. 

The  Palazzo  Picco'omini  contains  the 
archives  of  Siena,  dating  from  736,  over 
fifty  thousand  in  number.  The  documents 
are  written  on  parchment  and  exhibited 
under  glass  cases.  This  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  and  valuable  collections 
known. 

Palazzo  del  Magmfico,  built  for  the  ty- 
rant Petrucci,  is  probably  the  finest  in 
Siena. 

Palazzo  Buonsiynori,  in  the  Gothic  style, 
is  also  very  grand. 

The  Acadrmia  degli  Tntronati  contains  a 
library  of  40,000  volumes  and  5000  MSS., 
also  a  copy  of  the  Greek  Gospels,  at  one 
time  in  the  imperial  palace  at  Constanti- 
nople, written  in  the  9th  century. 

A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  three  ora- 
tories in  the  house  of  Kt.  Catharine  of 
Siena,  daughter  of  a  dyer,  who  exerted 
such  influence  over  Pope  Gregory  XI.  that 
he  transferred  again  the  papal  court  from 
Avignon  to  Rome.  She  became  a  nun  at 
the  age  of  eight,  and  was  noted  for  the 
visions  and  inspirations  vouchsafed  her. 
The  house  is  decorated  with  representa- 
tions of  miraculous  events  in  her  life. 

At  station  Asriano  there  is  a  branch  lino 
leading  to  Grosscto.  See  Route  No.  219. 

Monte  Pulci'tno,  six  miles  from  the  sta- 
tion of  the  same  nan;c,  is  a  handsome  town 
in  a  fine  position,  containing  2000  inhabit- 
ants. 

Ten  miles  from  Pulciano  is  the  town 


CHIUSI. 


[ITALY.] 


FOSSOMBBOSB. 


of  Pienza,  the  birthplace  of  Pius  II.  and 
III. 

Chiusi  (hotel,  Leon  (fOro),  the  ancient 
Clusium  of  the  Etruscans,  and  one  of  their 
twelve  capitals.  It  contains  3200  inhabit- 
ants. 

The  Museo  Etrusco  contains  a  fine  col- 
lection of  vases,  bronzes,  urns,  and  other 
relics,  mostly  in  terra-cotta,  found  in  the 
neighborhood ;  and  visits  may  still  be  made 
to  Etruscan  tombs  if  furnished  with  tickets 
issued  at  the  Municipio. 

A  ride  of  an  hour  from  Chiusi  brings 
one  to  the  small  town  of  Cetona,  containing 
a  collection  of  antiquities. 

Orvifto. — Hotels,  Belle  Arti  and  Agostino 
Vtilenlini.  This  town  is  the  Urbibentum 
of  the  Romans,  and  is  now  an  episcopal  res- 
idence, situated  on  a  high  rock.  During 
the  Middle  Ages  it  was  the  stronghold  of 
the  Guelphs. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  splendid  specimen  of 
Italian  Gothic.  Its  facade  is  built  in  alter- 
nate courses  of  black  and  white  marble, 
decorated  with  mosaic  and  sculpture.  The 
interior,  which  is  built  in  the  form  of  a 
Latin  cross,  contains  a  large  collection  of 
sculptures  and  frescoes  of  the  16th  century. 
It  is  constructed  of  black  basalt  and  yel- 
low limestone,  with  pointed  windows  ;  the 
upper  part  being  filled  with  stained  glass. 
The  nave  is  separated  from  the  aisles  by 
six  arches.  The  columns  are  adorned 
with  capitals  of  various  orders  of  archi- 
tecture, above  which  is  a  gallery  orna- 
mented with  rich  carvings.  The  different 
frescoes  throughout  the  church  were  ex- 
ecuted by  the  different  masters  of  the  pe- 
riod. 

The  Opera  del  Duomo,  opposite  the  Ca- 
thedral, contains  designs  on  parchment  for 
the  facade  and  other  parts  of  the  church — 
never  executed,  or  abandoned. 

S.  Domenico  and  S.  Giovenale  contain 
some  paintings  and  monuments. 

Near  the  old  fortress  is  the  interesting 
fountain  of  II  Pozzo  di  S.  Patrizio,  hewn 
partly  out  of  the  solid  rock.  A  beautiful 
riew  of  the  valley  of  the  Tiber  is  obtained 
from  it.  Fee,  1  franc. 

From  Orvieto  to  Rome  the  line  follows 
the  course  of  the  Tiber.  At  Orte  it  falls 
in  with  the  line  from  Foligno  to  Rome. 
See  Route  No.  218. 

Rome.     See  Index. 

VOL.  II.— O 


ROUTE  No.  221. 

Fano  to  Perugia,  via  Fossombrone,  Urbino, 
and  Gubbio.  Time,  15  h.  45  m. ;  fare,  first 
class,  42  fr.  35  c. 

From  Fano  to  Perugia,  10  hours  by  dili- 
gence ;  from  Perugia  to  Rome,  5  h.  45  m. 
(express). 

(Nothing  special  in  this  route  to  take 
the  tra%-eler  out  of  the  beaten  track.) 

Fossombrone  (hotel,  Poslti')  contains  4600 
inhabitants.     Its  situation  is  rather  pictur- 
esque, at  the  bottom  of  a  valley  command- 
ed by  ruins  of  an  ancient  castle.     It  pos- 
sesses several  silk  factories.     Proceeding 
through  the  valley  the  mountain  ofPietra- 
l/if'i  is  passed.     Here,  according  to  tradi- 
tion, the   celebrated   battle   between  the 
Carthaginians   and    Romans  was   fought, 
when  Hasdrubal,  brother  of  Hannibal,  at 
j  the  head  of  60,000  men,  was  signally  de- 
i  feated  by  Consuls  Claudius  Nero  and  Liv- 
j  ius  Salinator.     The  valley  contracts  now, 
|  so  as  to  leave  room  for  the  river  alone. 
The  traveler  is  driven  through  the  cele- 
brated Furlo  Pass,  a  tunnel  seventeen  feet 
wide,  excavated  by  the  order  of  the  Em- 
peror I'espasian,  as  the  inscription  records. 
We  next  pass  the  small  town  of  Schiegga, 
j  near  which  stand  the  ruins  of  the  Temple 
of  Jupiter  Apenninus.     Several  antiquities 
have  been  discovered  in  the  vicinity.     At 
this  point  the  roads  divide.     The  old  Via 
Flaminia   descends    to   Foligno,   and    the 
route  to  Gubbio  and  Perugia  keeps  to  the 
right. 

Gubbio,  the  ancient  Iguvium  (hotel, 
Spernichui),  is  situated  at  the  base  of  Monte 
Calvo,  entirely  surrounded  by  mountains. 
It  contains  6200  inhabitants.  There  are 
no  galleries  nor  special  collections  in  th« 
town.  The  churches  of  S.  Maria  Novella, 
S.  Pietro,  and  the  Cathedral  contain  some 
oil-paintings  and  frescoes,  as  well  as  the 
Palazzo  del  Comune  and  Ductile.  There 
are  some  good  pictures  and  antiquities  hi 
the  Palazzo  Rangiatri-Brancaleone.  Out- 
845 


PEKCGIA.  [ITALY.] 

side  the  town  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
theatre,  among  which  were  found  the  cele- 
brated Eugubian  Tables,  now  to  be  seen  in 
the  Palazzo  Municipale.  They  are  in 
bronze,  and  bear  inscriptions  in  the  Urn- 
brian  and  Latin  characters.  They  date 
from  nearly  200  years  before  the  Christian 
era. 

The  route  to  Perugia  is  now  through  a 
barren  and  uninteresting  district. 

Perugia.     See  Route  No.  216. 


ROME. 

Rome,  the  most  celebrated  of  European 
cities,  famous  in  both  ancient  and  modern 
history — formerly  for  being  the  capital  of 
the  most  powerful  nation  of  antiquity,  and 
afterwards  the  ecclesiastical  capital  of  Chris- 
846 


ROME. 

tendotn  and  the  residence  of  the  Pope,  and 
since  1871  the  capital  of  United  Italy  and 
the  residenceof  the  king — is  situated  on  both 
banks  of  the  Tiber,  about  16  miles  from  its 
mouth.  Population  in  1876,  246,100. 

The  principal  hotels  are,  the  Quirinal, 
Continental,  Costanzi,  de  la  Minerva,  d'Jtalie. 

Hottl  Quirinal,  an  elegant,  newly-erected 
house,  situated  in  the  largest  street  of  Rome, 
the  Via  Nazionale,  on  a  site  expressly  se- 
lected with  a  view  to  salubrity ;  every  mod- 
ern comfort,  including  lift,  etc.,  and  man- 
aged by  Mr.  Baur,  also  proprietor  of  the 
Baur  au  Lac  in  Zurich. 

Hotel  Continental,  a  magnificent  new 
house  just  opposite  the  station,  in  a  most 
healthy  position.  Lift,  furnaces,  etc. ;  well 
managed  by  Mr.  Lugani.  also  proprietor  of 
the  Hotel  d1  Allemagne. 

Hotel  Costanzi,  a  magnificent  first-class 
hotel  of  great  size,  situated  in  the  highest 
and  healthiest  part  of  Rome ;  350  rooms 
and  salons,  billiard-room,  lift,  large  gar- 
den; ably  managed  by  the  proprietors, 
Messrs.  Cremonesi  &  Martinelli.  The  for- 
mer proprietor  of  this  house,  Signor  Cos- 
tanzi, in  the  fall  of  1880  opened  an  elegant 
new  theatre  not  far  from  the  hotel. 

Hotel  de  la  Minerva,  a  fine  large  house 
of  250  rooms,  situated  in  the  healthiest  po- 
sition, close  to  the  Pantheon  and  the  end 
of  the  Corso,  and  known  throughout  Italy 
for  its  cuisine  and  very  moderate  charges. 
Every  comfort  and  convenience,  lift,  etc. ; 
well  managed  by  its  amiable  proprietor, 
Mr.  Sauve. 

Hotel  <F  Italic,  a  first-class  house,  in  the 
best  portion  of  the  city,  much  patronized 
by  English  and  Americans,  and  well  con- 
ducted by  the  proprietor,  Mr.  A.  Valenti. 

Restaurants. — The  best  are  Nazzari,  in 
the  Piazza  di  Spagna  ( Rome  would  not 
be  Rome  without  Nazzari),  and  Spillmann 
freres,  Via  Condotti,  No.  10,  quite  near 
the  former.  There  is  also  the  elder  Spill- 
mann. in  the  s;imo  street,  No.  13. 

Cafes  are  Di  Roma,  in  the  Corso,  and 
Cafe  Cesano,  No.  20,  Via  Colonna. 

Cabs,  per  course,  80  c. ;  at  night,  1  fr. 
40  c.,  1  or  2  persons.  Two-horse  carriages, 
1  or  4  persons,  1  fr.  50  c.  day ;  1  fr.  70  c. 
night ;  each  trunk  50  c.  extra.  They  all 
carry  a  tariff  of  their  charges.  To  go  out- 
side the  gates  a  bargain  must  be  made,  and 
for  carriages  to  make  distant  excursions  a 
written  contract  had  better  be  drawn  up. 


R 


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67   /:,.• 

• 


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72 
73 

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75 
76 
77 
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ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


Days  and  Hours  for  Visiting  the  different 
PalttCetf  li/las,  and  Galii  -rii*. 

AViiini  V'd'a,  Pictures  and  Antiquities, 
Tuesday  (except  in  wet  weather),  from  10 
to  du.-k. 

Boryhese  Palace,  Picture-gallery,  Mon- 
day. Wednesday,  and  Friday,  9  to  3. 

~Borghese  Villa,  Garden,  daily,  except 
Monday ;  Statues  in  the  Casino,  Satur- 
day. 1  to  4. 

Barberini  Palace,  Picture-gallery,  daily, 
except  Sunday,  2  to  5. 

C'apitoline  Museum,  Sunday  and  Thurs- 
day free,  fee  50  c.  on  other  days,  12  to  3. 

Colonna  Palace,  Picture-gallery,  daily, 
Sunday  excepted,  11  to  3. 

Corsini  Palace,  Picture-gallery,  Monday, 
Thursday,  and  Saturday,  9  to  3. 

Doria  Palace,  Picture-gallery,  Tuesday 
and  Friday,  10  to  2. 

Farne-se  Palace,  Frescoes,  Friday,  12  to  2. 

Farnesina  Vila,  1st  and  15th  of  each 
month,  10  to  3. 

Forum  Romanum,  Sunday  and  Thurs- 
day, from  9  till  dusk. 

Kircheriano  Museo,  Antiquities,  9  to  3. 

Lateran,  daily,  9  to  4. 

St.  Luca,  Academy,  daily,  9  to  3. 

Lndovi-fi  I  'il'a,  ticket  through  consul. 

.I/<r.s>7«i<>  Villf,  by  sending  card  to  Pal- 
ace Massimo. 

Mi'ilic;  Vi'lii,  daily,  except  Saturday. 

Palatine,  Excavations,  present  visiting 
card  on  Thursday  and  Sunday. 

I'amjili  Do/in  \  "il'n,  Monday  and  Friday, 
only  two-horse  carriages  admitted. 

Quirinal  Palace,  now  occupied  by  the 
king,  and  seldom  shown. 

Rospigliosi  Palace,  Wednesday  and  Sat- 
urday, 9  to  2. 

Spada  Pal-ace,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and 
Saturday,  10  to  3. 

Vatican,  Collection  arl  Library,  daily, 
except  Sunday,  with  a  permesso  obtained 
at  your  banker's  or  hotel  proprietor's  for  a 
fee.  There  are  three  kinds :  one  for  the 
Picture-gallery,  Sixtine  Chapel,  and  Ra- 
phaefs  Stanze  and  Logie,  from  8  to  12  and 
2  to  5.  This  permit  can  be  renewed  for  a 
small  fee.  and  is  good  for  five  persons. 
Another  for  the  Mus?nm  of  $ta<uary,  Mon- 
day and  Thursday,  8  to  11 ;  also  good  for 
five  persons  ;  and  a  third  for  the  Museum 
of  Statuary,  Tuesday,  Wednesday-,  Friday, 
and  Saturday,  8  to  11  and  2  to  5,  for  live 


persons.  The  Librarj-  is  open  the  same 
days  as  the  Mu.-etiin  of  Statuary,  and  re- 
quires no  special  permit. 

The  entrance  to  the  Museum  of  Statuary 
is  on  the  west  side,  the  gateway  under 
Salla  delta  Biga,  between  the  gardens  of 
the  Vatican  and  Palace. 

(By  all  means  take  either  a  courier  or 
valet-de-place  the  first  or  second  time  of 
visiting  the  Vatican;  its  entrances  and 
passages  are  most  intricate.) 

Wolkonslcy  Villa,  Wednesday  and  Sat- 
urday, all  day,  by  permission  obtained  at 
a  banker's. 

"I  am  in  Rome!  oft  as  the  morning  ray 
Visits  thp-p  eye?,  waking,  at  once  I  cry, 
Whence  this  excess  of  joy?  what  has  befallen 

me? 

And  from  within  a  thrilling  voice  replies, 
Thou  art  In  Rome !    A  thousand  busy  thoughts 
Hush  on  my  mind,  a  thousand  images, 
And  I  spring  up  as  girt  to  run  a  race. 
Thou  art  in  Koine  I  the  city  thut  so  long 
Ki'igned  absolute,  the  mistress  of  the  world; 
The  mighty  vision  that  the  prophets  saw 
And  trembled;  that  from  nothing,  from  the 

leut. 

The  lowliest  village  (what  but  here  and  there 
A  reed-roofed  cabin  by  a  river  side), 
Grew  into  every  thing ;  and  year  by  year, 
Patiently,  fearlessly  working  her  way 
O'er  brook  and  field,  o'er  continent  and  sea; 
Not.  like  the  merchant  with  his  merchan- 

di-i , 

Or  traveler  with  staff  and  script,  exploring. 
But  hand  to  hand,  and  foot  to  foot,  through 

hosts, 

Through  nations  numberless,  in  battle  array, 
Each  behind  each,  when  the  other  fell, 
Vp  and  in  arms,  at  length  subdued  them  nil. 
Thou  art  in  Rome!  the  city  where  the  Cauls, 
Entering  at  sunrise  through  her  open  Kates, 
And,  through  her  streets  silent  and  desolate, 
Marching  to  slay,  thought  they  saw  gods,  not 

men ; 

The  city  that,  by  temperance,  fortitude, 
And  love  of  glory,  towered  above  the  cloud?, 
Then  fell ;  but,  falling,  kept  the  highest  seat, 
And  in  her  loneliness,  her  pomp  of  woe, 
Where  now  she  dwells,  withdrawn  into  the 

wild, 

Still  o'er  the  mind  maintains  from  age  to  age 
Her  empire  undiminUhcd. 

There,  as  though 

Grandeur  attracted  grandeur,  are  beheld 
All  things  that  strike,  ennoble  — from  the 

depths 

Of  Egypt,  from  the  classic  fields  of  Greece, 
Her  groves,  her  temples — :ill  tilings  that  in- 
spire 
Wonder,  delight.     Who   would    not  say   the 

forms 

Most  iK-rfect,  most  divine,  had,  by  consent, 
l-'locki-d  thither  to  abide  eternally, 
Within   those   silent   chambers   where  they 

dwell 
In  happy  intercourse  f" 

847 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROMK. 


The  origin  of  the  eity  of  Rome  is  in- 
volved in  mystery.  The  generally  con- 
ceived idea  is  that  it  was  founded  753  years 
before  the  Christian  era.  It  was  at  first 
an  asylum  for  the  bandits  of  Latium.  Its 
first  seven  kings  were  Romulus,  Numa, 
Tullius  Hostilius,  Ancus  Marcius,  Tarquin 
the  Elder,  Servius  Tullius,  and  Tarquin 
the  Superb.  During  the  reign  of  the  fourth 
king  Rome  commenced  to  assume  con- 
siderable importance.  In  the  reign  of  the 
last  king,  his  tyranny  became  so  oppressive 
that  the  kings  were  expelled,  and  a  re- 
public founded,  which  last  was  governed 
by  two  consuls.  A  dictatorship  was  es- 
tablished in  498  B.C.  ;  a  tribunate,  493 
B.C. ;  the  decemvirate,  451  B.C.  The  con- 
sulate was  replaced  in  444  B.C.,  and  264 
B.C.  the  republic  had  become  the  greatest 
power  of  the  world. 

In  29  B.C.  the  Senate  declared  Au- 
gustus Emperor  of  Rome,  which  title  ex- 
isted down  to  Francis  II.,  1792,  over 
eighteen  hundred  years.  Under  Constan- 
tine,  310-325,  the  Christian  religion  be- 
came triumphant,  and  was  declared  the 
imperial  religion.  About  this  time  the 
capital  of  the  empire  was  transferred  to 
Constantinople.  In  410  the  city  was  com- 
pletely sacked  by  Alaric,  and  in  445  by  the 
Vandals. 

In  537  Rome  withstood  a  long  siege  of 
the  Goths.  When  Totila,  their  king,  en- 
tered the  city  in  516,  it  was  so  completely 
devastated  that  not  over  1000  people  were 
found  within  its  walls. 

The  Popes  soon  became  so  powerful  in 
Rome  that  Henry  IV.  laid  siege  to  the 
city  three  times,  1081,  1082,  and  1083,  and 
finally  drove  out  Gregory  VII. 

During  the  quarrels  of  Innocent  II.  and 
Anacletus  II.  (1140),  Arnaud  de  Brescia 
established  a  Republic  and  Senate  at 
Rome,  but  the  city  refused  to  submit  until 
1149.  Frederick  II.  marched  on  Rome  in 
1241,  and  drove  out  Gregory  IX. 

In  1281  the  nobles  became  masters  of 
the  city,  and  refused  to  receive  the  pope, 
'Martin  IV. ;  and  Clement  V.,  to  assure 
himself  of  the  protection  of  France,  re- 
moved the  seat  of  the  Holy  See  to  Avignon 
in  1347.  Rome,  taking  advantage  of  the 
absence  of  the  Pope,  established  &  republic, 
of  which  Rienzi  became  Tribune.  He 
drove  out  the  Roman  barons  who  oppressed 
the  city,  executed  the  bandits,  and  was 
848 


proclaimed  Liberator  and  Dictator.  The 
following  year  he  was  obliged  to  take  ref- 
uge with  the  Emperor  Charles  IV.  at 
Prague,  who  delivered  him  to  Pope  Clem- 
ent VI.  He  was  condemned  to  death  by 
Clement  at  Avignon,  but  the  Pope  died 
before  the  day  of  execution,  in  1352.  In- 
nocent VI.,  to  restore  his  own  authority  at 
Rome,  sent  Rienzi  there  as  senator.  He 
was  received  with  enthusiasm,  and  again 
placed  at  the  head  of  affairs.  He  caused 
to  be  beheaded  the  famous  bandit  Montreal, 
and  overran  the  whole  of  Italy  with  20,000 
men,  but  was  massacred  in  an  insurrec- 
tion, October  8, 1354.  Rienzi  was  bound  to 
Petrarch  by  the  closest  ties  of  friendship. 

The  popes  returned  to  Rome  in  1377. 
Notwithstanding  which  the  two  factions, 
Colo/mi  or  Ursini,  domineered  in  Rome  up 
to  the  16th  century.  At  this  epoch  the 
powers  of  the  popes  became  consolidated 
until  the  time  of  the  French  Revolution, 
which  for  a  time  put  an  end  to  their  tran- 
quillity. General  Berthier  declared  Rome 
a  republic  in  1798,  but  by  the  peace  of 
Luneville  it  was  returned  to  Pius  VII. 
In  1808  Napoleon  I.  united  Rome  to  the 
French  Empire,  with  most  of  the  ecclesias- 
tical states;  the  remainder  he  annexed  to 
the  kingdom  of  Italy.  He  declared  Rome 
the  second  city  of  the  empire  ;  originated 
a  department  of  the  Tiber  with  a  French 
prefect,  and  proclaimed  his  son  King  of 
Rome. 

After  1814  the  popes  were  rendered 
back  their  power,  which  they  maintained 
until  1848,  when  Pius  IX.  was  obliged  to 
flee  from  Rome.  The  following  year  a  re- 
public was  declared.  The  papal  power 
was  established  in  1850  by  Napoleon  III., 
who  placed  a  corps  d'armee  there  for  the 
defense  of  the  Pope.  In  18GO  the  Italians 
endeavored  to  make  Rome  the  capital ;  but 
by  the  convention  of  September  15,  1864, 
it  was  fixed  at  Florence,  and  France  en- 
gaged to  withdraw  her  troops  in  two  years. 
This  convention  was  strictly  adhered  to, 
but  they  were  recalled  after  the  Garibal- 
dian  difficulties  in  1867,  and  quartered  in 
the  neighborhood  until  the  breaking  out 
of  the  war  between  France  and  Prussi.-i. 
when  they  were  withdrawn  ;  and  on  the 
20th  September  the  Italian  troops  marched 
into  Rome  after  a  bombardment  of  five 
hours,  since  which  time  the  States  of  the 
Church  have  been  incorporated  with  those 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


of  Italy,  and  Koine  is  once  more  the  capi- 
tal of  i'nited  Italy. 

The  pope,  since  the  annexation,  has  not 
quitted  the  Vatican,  consequently  the  great 
religious  festivals  at  St.  Peter's  have  lost 
their  former  attraction,  many  of  them 
being  entirely  suspended,  especially  those 
of  the  holy  week,  the  benedictions,  and 
Fete  de  Dieu. 

It  is  impossible,  in  a  visit  as  brief  as  that 
usually  given  to  the  ancient  capital  of  the 
civilized  world,  to  become  thoroughly  ac- 
quainted with  its  objects  of  interest.  In 
its  walls  and  in  the  range  of  a  few  miles 
around  it  is  found  the  greater  part  of  the 
material  on  which  we  base  our  knowledge 
of  the  antique  past.  Within  a  day's  ride 
are  the  rem:tin>  of  all  the  epochs  of  rivili- 
zation  of  which  we  have  any  knowledge, 
and  in  the  galleries,  composed  of  the  re- 
mains found  in  and  around  Home,  is  the 
most  of  what  we  have  of  antique  art.  The 
first  object  of  interest  as  we  approach  the 
city  is  the  wall,  an  irregular  zigzag  struc- 
ture, mainly  of  brick,  with  towers  and  bas- 
tions of  all  forms  and  kinds  of  masonry. 
It  is  that  known  as  the  wall  of  Aurelianus. 
It  has  been  breached  and  repaired  many 
times,  and  was  thoroughly  repaired  by 
Belisarius,  since  whose  time  it  has  under- 
gone little  change.  It  probably  coincided 
with  the  more  ancient  wall  of  Servius  Tul- 
lius  only  at  one  point,  near  St.  John  Late- 
ran.  Incorporated  in  it,  in  the  course  of 
its  circuit,  are  the  pyramid  of  Caius  Ces- 
tius,  the  soldiers'  amphitheatre,  the  aque- 
ducts, and  the  Praetorian  camp.  It  had  on 
the  Capitol  side  of  the  Tiber  thirteen  gates, 
of  which  eight  only  are  now  open,  and  on 
the  Vatican  side  two,  of  which  only  one, 
with  a  portion  of  the  wall,  remains.  The 
actual  wall  of  the  Vatican  part  of  the  city 
is  of  Middle  Age  construction.  The  Ports 
S.  Lorenzo  (formerly  Tiburtina)  is  by  far 
the  earliest  and  most  interesting.  The  in- 
scriptions on  the  Porta  Maggiore,  with  the 
several  aqueducts  passing  over  it,  have 
great  interest,  the  architecture  of  the  gate 
being,  however,  very  bad. 

The  railway  enters  fhe  city  by  an  open- 
ing made  for  its  passage  near  the  Porta 
Maggiore,  and  has  its  terminus  at  the  Pi- 
azza di  Termini,  the  site  of  the  baths  of 
Diocletian,  of  which  some  magnificent  frag- 
ments will  give  the  traveler  his  first  evi- 
dences of  the  splendor  of  the  Rome  of  the 


Emperors.  The  railway  passes,  however, 
two  most  interesting  ruins  between  the 
wall  and  the  terminus— the  TEMPLE  OF 
MIXKUVA  MKHICA.  and  the  AGGER  OF 
SEUVIUS  TuLi.irs.  supposed  formerly  to 
have  been  here  only  a  mound,  but  shown 
by  the  cutting  of  the  railway  through  it  to 
contain  a  massive  Etruscan  wall  of  huge 
blocks  of  peperino. 

The  wall  of  Servius  Tullius  inclosed  tho 
seven  hills,  and,  passing  from  the  Quirinal 
to  the  Capitol,  struck  the  Tiber  near  the 
island,  the  greater  part  of  modern  Rome 
having  been  built  on  what  was  anciently 
the  Campus  Martius  and  adjacent  land  ly- 
ing outside  the  Servian  wall ;  in  fact,  the 
seven  hills  are  now  almost  entirely  unin- 
habiti'd,  tln>  Aventine,  overlooking  the  Ti- 
ber and  |iort  of  Kipa  Grande,  having  on 
it  only  two  monastic  establishments ;  the 
Palatine,  the  ruins  of  the  palace  of  the  Cae- 
sars (now  being  partially  excavated),  and 
two  monastic  buildings ;  the  Cselian,  the 
villa  Mattel,  now  a  nunnery,  the  churches 
of  St.  Stefano  Hotonda,  St.  Gregory,  Sts. 
John  and  Paul,  the  ruins  of  the  vivarium, 
and  a  few  buildings,  monastic  and  other, 
on  the  side  toward  the  Esquiline;  on  the 
latter  are  the  ruins  of  the  baths  of  Titus, 
St.  Pietro  in  Vincoli,  and  two  or  three  farm- 
houses ;  the  Viminal  is  traversed  by  the 
Via  di  Quattrofontane,  but  the  greater  part 
of  it  is  occupied  by  the  grounds  of  the  villa 
Negroni,  the  baths  of  Diocletian,  and  vine- 
yards, parts  of  the  Quirinal  and  Capitol 
only  being  to  any  extent  dwelt  on. 

Of  the  bridges  which  cross  the  Tiber, 
the  POXTE  ST.  AXGELO,  formerly  Pans 
sElius,  built  by  Hadrian ;  SISTO,  former- 
ly Janicolensis ;  QUATTRO  CAPI,  formerly 
Fdbricius,  connecting  the  island  with  the 
city  ;  S.  BARTOLOMEO,  former!}'  Cestius ; 
and  P.  ROTTO,  formerly  Palatinus,  of 
which  a  part  only  remains,  the  damage  be- 
ing repaired  by  a  suspension  bridge,  the 
work  of  Pio  IX.,  are  all  ancient,  a  new 
suspension  bridge  near  the  Santo  Spirito 
being  the  only  entirely  modern  one  ;  \\h\\i: 
of  the  fttiMicitu,  mad»-  innnortjd  bv  Hora- 
tius  Codes,  and  the  first  built  across  the 
Tiber,  and  of  the  Triumphalis,  which  led  to 
the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Vaticanus,  only  the 
remains  of  the  piers  are  left — the  latter 
visible  from  the  Ponte  St.  Angelo,  the  for- 
mer from  the  Marmorata,  or  marble  depot 
beneath  the  Aventine. 

849 


ROME. 


The  first  visit  of  most  travelers  will  be 
to  the  FORUM  HOMAXUM  and  the  adjacent 
ruins,  and  certainly  in  the  few  acres  which 
lie  between  the  Capitol  and  the  Colosseum 
is  gathered  the  most  marvelous  collection 
of  the  remains  of  antiquity  to  be  found  in 
the  world.  From  the  Cloaca  Maxima  and 
the  Mamertine  Prison,  the  work  of  the  ear- 
ly kings,  built  nearly  twenty-five  centu- 
ries ago,  down  to  the  Basilica  of  Constan- 
tine,  we  have  an  almost  complete  series  of 
the  building  of  all  epochs,  the  Forum  it- 
'self,  lying  in  the  valley  between  the  Pala- 
tine and  Capitoline  hills,  being  the  nucleus, 
as  if  Rome  grouped  all  her  most  glorious 
works  around  the  cradle  of  her  power,  the 
place  of  popular  assemblies. 

Entering  the  Forum  from  the  Via  Bo- 
nella,  we  have  the  CAPITOL  above  us  at  the 
right ;  at  the  foot  of  its  wall  the  remains 
of  the  TEMPLE  OF  CONCORD,  the  three 
columns  of  the  Temple  of  Vespasian,  the 
colonnade  of  the  TEMPLE  OF  SATURN  ;  and 
in  front  the  ARCH  OF  SEPTIMIUS  SEVERCS, 
with  other  remains ;  at  the  left  the  solitary 
COLUMN  OF  PHOCAS,  the  VIA  SACRA  be- 
yond, then  the  substruction  of  the  BASILI- 
CA JULIA  ;  farther  to  the  left  the  three  col- 
umns of  the  GR.*:COSTASIS  mark  the  era 
of  the  Forum  proper ;  at  the  left  of  this  as 
you  face  the  COLOSSEUM,  which  looms  up 
in  the  distance,  is  the  TEMPLE  OF  ANTO- 
NINUS and  FAUSTINA  ;  at  the  right  the 
huge  ruins  of  the  PALACE  OF  THE  CAESARS. 
SANTA  MARIA  IN  FORO,  a  forgotten  church, 
close  to  the  Septimius  Arch,  was  excavated 
in  1882-3.  Along  the  sides  of  the  Forum 
were  the  tabernae,  or  shops.  At  one  of 
the  former  Virginius  purchased  the  knife 
witli  which  he  preserved  his  daughter  from 
slavery.  On  the  Via  S.  Teodoro  is  the 
ancient  TEMPLE  OF  ROMULUS,  now  the 
church  of  S.  Teodoro.  Continuing  down 
the  Via  S.  Teodoro,  we  turn  to  the  right 
into  the  Via  S.  Giorgio  in  Velabro,  and 
come  to  the  Arch  of  JANUS  QUAURIFRONS, 
an  ugly  sample  of  Roman  taste.  At  the 
right  of  it  is  an  interesting  monument  to 
Septimius  Severus  by  the  goldsmiths  of 
Rome.  Opposite  this,  passing  under  a  gar- 
den arch,  is  the  path  to  the  CLOACA  MAX- 
IMA (a  man  is  generally  in  attendance  to 
show  them).  Following  the  same  street 
we  arrive  at  the  Piazza  della  Bocca  di  Ve- 
rita,  in  which  stands  the  beautiful  TEMPLE 
OF  VESTA,  a  circular  building  of  the  best 
850 


[ITALY.]  ROMP, 

times  of  Roman  architecture,  and  in  nearly 
perfect  preservation. 

In  the  portico  of  S.  M.  in  Cosmedin,  op- 
posite  (formerly  the  TEMPLE  OF  CERES 
AND  PROSERPINE),  is  the  famous  mask  in 
which  it  is  fabled  that  accusations  were 
put,  or,  according  to  others,  into  which  the 
hand  of  persons  taking  an  oath  was  put, 
with  a  belief  that  it  would  be  crushed  if 
forsworn :  it  has  evidently  been  part  of 
a  fountain.  Near  the  Ponte  Rotto,  be- 
tween it  and  the  Temple  of  Vesta,  is  the 
TEMPLE  OF  FORTUNA  VIRILIS,  the  oldest 
in  Rome,  built  by  Ancus  Martius  B.C.  620 
or  630,  also  the  house  of  Rienzi.  Exca- 
vations of  the  Temple  of  Vesta,  begun 
in  1883,  have  already  led  to  remarkable 
results,  and  are  being  most  actively  pros- 
ecuted. The  ruins  are  marked  by  sign- 
boards, with  authorities.  On  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  Palatine,  however,  is  an 
entrance  to  that  part  of  the  ruins  which 
are  not  included  in  the  French  excava- 
tions, and  this  is  accessible  at  all  times 
by  paying  a  small  fee  (1  paul  is  the  usual 
fee  in  all  such  cases)  to  the  woman  who 
opens  the  gate.  The  principal  part  of  the 
ruins  of  this  side  is  what  is  called  the 
HOUSE  OF  AUGUSTUS,  the  largest  mass  on 
the  Palatine.  From  the  terrace  above  this 
we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  Campagna  and 
southern  and  southwestern  environs  of 
Rome,  commencing  on  the  rkht  with  the 
Aventine,  then,  going  leftward,  the  PYRA- 
MID OF  GAITS  Ci-:sTirs  and  the  Protestant 
cemetery,  the  grand  mass  of  the  I'ATUS  OF 
CARACALLA  :  still  farther  to  the  left  the 
Gate  of  St.  Si-lia.-tian.  VILLA  MATTEL  ST. 
STF.FANO  ROTONDO,  fragments  of  the 
aqueducts,  with  a  piece  of  wall  containing 
the  ARCH  OF  DOLAP.ELLA,  the  churches 
of  STS.  JOHN  AND  PAUL,  ST.  GF.I:I;<II;Y, 
and  ST.  JOHN  LATEKAN,  the  ruins  of  tiie 
HATHS  OF  TITUS  on  the  ( 'n-lian.  and,  final- 
ly, a  fine  view  of  the  COI.OSSKUM  on  the 
ruined  side.  At  the  west,  beneath  the 
ruins,  is  a  plain  which  was  formerly  the 
<'u:i  i:s  MAXIMUS,  supposed  to  be  the  scene 
of  the  rape  of  the  Sabines.  Continuing 
the  road  by  which  we  came,  we  reach  the 
BATHS  OF  CARACALLA  by  a  narrow  road 
turning  off  to  the  right  just  after  crossing 
the  brook  (this  brook,  be  it  here  noted, 
|  once  came  into  the  city  by  the  Claudian 
Aqueduct).  Beyond,  by  the  main  road 
(which  is  the  old  Via  Appia),  we  come  to 


[ITALY.] 


BOUE. 


the  TOMB  OK  THE  SCIPIOS,  tlie  COLUM- 
BARIA, the  ARCH  OF  DRUSCS,  and  the 
PORTA  S.  SEUASTIANO. 

Returning  toward  the  Forum,  we  turn 
to  the  right  In-fore  reaching  the  house  of 
Augustus.  aii'l  follow  tl'.e  Via  S.  Gregorio, 
passing  a  fragment  of  the  CLACDIAN  AQUE- 
DUCT on  the  loft  and  under  the  ARCH  OF 
CONSTANTINO.  '1'liis  monument,  at  once 
of  the  power  of  the  emperor  and  of  the  want 
of  last.-  and  artistic  power  of  his  age,  was 
formerly  an  Arch  of  Trajan,  and  was  re- 
moved to  its  present  site  by  Constantino, 
and  reconstructed,  with  the  addition  of 
some  sculptures  which  are  the  most  barba- 
rous to  be  found  in  Rome.  As  you  emerge 
from  the  arch  you  find  immediately  in  front 
of  you  the  MET  A  SUDAN'S,  or  fountain  in 
which  the  gladiators  were  accustomed  to 
wash  after  their  exercises.  At  the  left  is 
the  VIA  SACRA,  descending  from  the  ARCH 
OF  TITCS,  which  stands  on  the  top  of  the 
ridge  dividing  the  Forum  from  the  low  land 
on  which  the  Colosseum  is  built.  At  the 
right  of  the  Arch  of  Titus  is  the  huge  struc- 
ture of  the  TEMPLE  OK  VENUS  AND  ROME, 
of  which  the  double  tribune  only  remains. 
Numerous  fragments  of  granite  columns 
strew  the  ground,  hinting  faintly  at  the 
magnificence  of  the  temple  when  it  stood. 
This  t.Miiple  was  built  by  Hadrian  after  his 
own  design,  and  there  is  a  story  to  the  ef- 
fect that  when  it  was  finished  he  asked 
Apollodorus  what  ho  thought  of  it;  the 
architect  replying  that  it  was  very  good 
for  an  emperor,  Hadrian  ordered  him  be- 
headed. Beyond  the  temple,  and  partially 
visible  over  it,  are  the  remains  of  the  BA- 
SILICA OF  CONSTAXTINE,  commenced  by 
Maxentius  a-;  a  Temple  of  Peace,  and  fin- 
ished by  Con<t  inline  after  the  defeat  and 
death  of  Maxontius.  To  the  right  of  the 
Temple  of  Venus  and  Rome,  and  on  a 
level  with  the  Arch  of  Constantine,  is  the 
square  base  on  which  stood  the  colossal 
statue  of  Xero.  At  your  right,  and  filling 
the  remainder  of  the  view,  is  the  FLAVIAN 
AMPHITHEATRE,  known  as  the  Colosseum. 
This  greatest  of  antique  structures,  built 
in  honor  of  Titus,  and  on  which  it  is  said 
60,000  Jews  were  engaged  ten  years,  would 
probably  have  been  in  a  nearly  complete 
ptate  luit  for  the  ravages  of  man  during 
the  Middle  Ages.  It  was  a  feudal  fortress 
for  a  long  time.  and  finally  a  quarry  from 
which  were  built  churches  and  palaces,  un- 


til,  by  its  consecration  as  holy  ground  on 
account  of  the  number  of  martyrs  supposed 
to  have  been  immolated  there,  farther  rav- 
age was  stopped.  The  subsequent  repairs, 
tlimsLch  greatly  interfering  with  its  pictur- 
esquencss,  will  doubtless  have  the  effect 
of  preserving  the  remainder  for  centuries 
more.  It  is  said  to  have  given  seats  to 
87,000  spectators,  and  was  inaugurated 
A.D.  81,  the  same  year  in  which  Titus 
died,  on  which  occasion  5000  wild  animals 
and  10,000  captives  were  slain.  The  in- 
auguration lasted  one  hundred  days.  There 
are  three  orders  of  architecture  used  in  the 
four  stories — the  first  Doric,  second  Ionic, 
the  third  and  fourth  Corinthian.  In  each 
of  the  lower  tiers  there  were  eighty  arches. 
The  circumference  of  the  building  is  1641 
feet,  the  height  of  the  outer  wall  157 ;  the 
length  of  the  arena  is  278  feet,  and  width 
177 ;  the  whole  superficial  area  is  six  acres. 

'•  I  rlo  remember  me  that  in  my  youth. 
When  I  was  wondering,  upon  such  a  night 
I  stood  within  the  Coliseum's  wall 
Midst  the  chief  relics  of  almighty  Home; 
The  trees  which  grew  along  the  broken  arches 
Waved  dark  in  the  blue  midnight,  and  the 

star- 
Shone  through  the  rents  of  ruin;  from  afar 
The  wittch-do<r  bny'd  beyond  the  Tiber ;  and 
More  near,  from  out  the  ( 'fesnrs'  palace  came 
The  owl's  long  cry,  and,  interruptedly, 
Of  distant  eentinels  the  fitful  song 
Begun  and  died  upon  the  gfntle  wind. 
Some  cypresses  beyond  the  time-worn  breach 
Appeared  to  fkirt  the  horizon,  yet  they  stood 
Within  a  bowshot  where  the  Csesars  dwelt, 
And  dwell  the  tuneless  birds  of  night,  amid 
A  grove  which  springs  through  level'd  battle- 
ments. 

And  twines  its  roots  with  the  imperial  hearths ; 
Ivy  usurps  the  laurel's  place  nf  growth  ; 
But  the  gladiator's  bloody  ciivn-  -t  \<\<\-*, 
A  noble  wreck  in  ruinous  perfection. 
While  CaBsar's  chambers  ami  the  Augustan 

Imlls 
Grovel  on  earth  in  indistinct  decay." 

It  is  only  by  ascending  to  the  upper  ter- 
race that  the  enormous  size  of  the  Colosseum 
is  fully  seen,  and  by  moonlight  the  effect 
of  size  and  massiveness  is  much  increased, 
and  the  modern  repairs  lost  sight  of.  To 
obtain  entrance  at  night  it  is  necessary  to 
have  a  ticket  from  the  commandant  de 
place:  your  card  is  sufficient  application. 
The  ruins  south  of  the  Colosseum  are 
supposed  to  have  been  the  Vivarium,  in 
which  were  kept  the  wild  beasts  for  the 
combats.  In  the  vineyard  northeast  are 
the  remains  of  the  BATHS  OF  TITCS,  found- 
ed on  a  portion  of  the  Golden  House  of  Nero, 
851 


ROME.  [ITALY.] 

in  the  excavation  of  which  were  discover- 1 
ed  the  mural  paintings  which  gave  so  great  j 
an  impetus  to  the  classic  revival  of  art. 

Returning  to  the  Forum  by  the  road  be- 
hind the  Temple  of  Venus  and  Rome,  you 
pass  through  the  ruins  of  the  BASILICA  OF 
CONSTANTINE,  one  of  the  most  impressive 
fragments  in  Rome,  and  re-enter  the  Fo- 
rum near  the  TEMPLE  OF  REMUS,  now  the 
church  of  SS.  Cosmo  and  Damiano,  of 
which  it  forms  a  beautiful  portico.  The 
body  of  the  building,  as  well  as  that  of  the 
Temple  of  ANTONINUS  and  FAUSTINA,  just 
beyond  (now  S.Lorenzo  in  Miranda),  has 
doubtless  been  preserved  nearly  or  quite 
entire  under  its  refitting. 

Following  the  narrow  street  which  leads 
past  the  Mamertine  Prison,  the  Via  de  Mar- 
forio,  we  pa<s  on  our  right,  just  before 
reaching  the  Via  di  Ripresa  de  Barber}, 
the  TOMB  OF  BIBULUS,  a  relic  of  the  con- 
sular period,  and  in  excellent  preservation. 
It  is  of  peperino,  and,  like  most  of  the  Ro- 
man monuments,  owes  its  present  exist- 
ence to  having  been  built  on  in  later  times. 

Going  to  the  left,  at  the  next  turning 
we  shall  reach  the  Piazza  di  Ara  Coeli,  the 
square  in  front  of  the  CAPITOL.  The 
church  at  the  left,  facing  the  Capitol,  is 
S.  M.  di  Ara  Coeli,  standing  on  the  site  of 
the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Capitolinus. 

The  CAPITOL,  the  modern  Campidoglio, 
is  founded  on  the  ancient  Capitolium,  the 
citadel  of  Rome,  of  which  the  wall  on  the 
side  toward  and  overhanging  the  Forum 
still  remains  in  tolerable  condition.  The 
present  structure  is  the  work  of  different 
ages,  the  design  of  the  front,  as  it  now 
stands,  being  by  Michael  Angelo.  As- 
cending the  steps  which  lead  from  the  pi- 
azza, we  enter  a  smaller  piazza,  of  which 
three  sides  are  palaces ;  that  in  front,  the 
Capitol  proper,  is  now  the  palace  of  the  sen- 
ators (which,  in  the  present  state  of  things. 
represents,  hieroglyphically,  the  Roman 
Senate),  and  contains  the  senatorial  court- 
room, the  offices  of  the  municipality,  etc., 
and  the  observatory  of  the  Capitol.  Above 
is  the  Tower  of  the  Capitol,  famous  for 
its  view  of  the  seven  hills,  but  now  abso- 
lutely and  unexceptionally  closed  to  the 
public.  In  this  tower  hangs  the  Patirina. 
the  bell  which  announces  the  death  of  the 
Pope  and  the  beginning  of  Carnival.  Be- 
low is  the  Museum  of  Ancient  Architect- 
ure, and  some  passages  leading  down  into 
852 


ROME. 


substructions  ;  also  a  staircase  which  gave 
exit  into  the  Forum.  The  building  at  the 
right,  the  PALACE  OF  THE  CONSERVATORS, 
contains  the  PHOTOMOTECA,  or  gallery  of 
busts  of  illustrious  men  of  Italy  ;  the  pict- 
ure-gallery, and  the  bronze  group  of  the 
wolf  nursing  Romulus  and  Remus,  the  old- 
est Roman  work  of  art.  Statues  and  an- 
tique fragments  are  arranged  around  the 
court.  There  is  an  Etruscan  Museum 
containing  a  fine  collection  of  antiquities. 
A  picture-gallery,  founded  by  Benedict 
XIV.,  open  daily,  gratis,  from  10  to  3. 
There  are  two  fine  rooms,  restored  in  1870, 
with  lists  of  modern  Roman  magistrates. 
The  Sale  dei  Consercatore  can  only  be 
visited  by  a  ticket  from  the  Sindaco.  pro- 
cured at  the  adjoining  Tabularium.  The 
third  building  is  the  MUSEUM  of  the  Capi- 
tol, a  magnificent  collection  of  antique 
marbles  and  bronzes.  A  catalogue  of  the 
statues  may  be  obtained.  Open  daily 
from  10  to  3 ;  fee  50  c.  Sunday  and  Thurs- 
day gratis. 

On  entering  the  building,  we  see  at  the 
bottom  of  the  court  the  colossal  statue  of 
Ocean,  which  formerly  stood  in  the  Forum 
of  Mars,  and  remarkable  for  being  the  fig- 
ure on  which  was  posted,  in  former  times, 
the  answers  to  the  satirical  sayings  of  Pas- 
quino.  On  the  first  floor  arc  the  Hulls  of 
Bronze*  and  of  Urns.  On  the  stairway  to 
the  first  floor  are  numerous  fragments  dis- 
covered in  the  Temple  of  Remus.  The 
stairway  conducts  to  a  gallery  of  busts  and 
inscriptions.  At  the  top  of  the  stairway 
is  the  Hall  of  the  Dyiny  Gladiator,  which, 
in  addition  to  this  brightest  gem  of  art, 
contains  many  works  of  the  highest  order. 
First  is  the  figure  from  which  it  derives  its 
name,  which  was  found  in  the  gardens  of 
Sallust.  The  wonderful,  simple,  and  natu- 
ral position  of  the  liml:s,  the  relaxing  mus- 
cles and  failing  strength,  the  lineaments 
of  the  f  ice,  expressive  of  the  utmost  an- 
guish, yet  endowed  with  manly  fortitude, 
might  well  call  forth  from  Pliny,  "  With 
such  admirable  art  was  the  statue  of  the 
DjTing  Gladiator  sculptured  by  Cre*ilas, 
that  one  could  judge  how  much  of  life  re- 
mained." 

"  I  see  before  me  the  gladiator  lie ; 
lie  leans  upon  Ms  hand — his  manly  brow 
Consents  to  death,  but  conquers  agony, 
And  his  droop'd  head  sinks  gradually  low — 
And  through  hia  side  the  last  drops,  ebbing 
slow, 


A  NCI  E  I 


Cain  pus  '        V  a  tie  an  us 


J/lU'H.r   Sortril  -DlUii 

.Hurrt.!  AimJittni-e*,  Pr*>li-t*;i-j6fi.C.n.. 
.*lut<tt.v  Ptifiilf  Ltwnif  IV  &fo  fj.C.n. 


ROME 


/TrHan^l  (Colosseum)  ffirfa}  guerquffu 

.  na  f  -'• 

/  ***^^\ 


land   l)d» 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROMK 


From  the  red  gash  fall  heary,  one  by  one, 
Like  tli<>  fiivt  of  a  thunder-shower;  and  now 
The  arena  swims  around  him:  he  i*  K'^ne, 
Ere  ceased  the  inhuman  shout  which  hailed  the 

wretch  who  won." 

This  ball  also  contains  the  celebrated 
Faun  of  Praxiteles,  which  was  found  in 
the  Villa  d'Kste  at  Tivoli :  also  the  Anti- 
nous,  found  at  Hadrian's  villa,  and  the  Am- 
azon. The  next  room  to  this  is  the  Ilttll 
of  the.  Faun,  from  the  celebrated  rosso  an- 
tifo  faun  which  stands  in  the  centre  of  the 
room,  and  which  was  found  at  Hadrian's 
villa  near  Tivoli.  In  the  large  saloon  no- 
tice particularly  the  h>j\int  ll<-rcnlf*  in  the 
centre  of  the  room  :  aUo  the  splendid  Cen-  • 
taurs.  The  next  room  contains  statues 
and  busts  of  illustrious  men  ;  then  the  Hall 
nf  Emptrfirs.  In  the  centre  of  this  room 
is  a  beautiful  sitting  statue  of  Agrippina.  j 
A  small  room  nearly  opposite  the  last  is 
called  the  Reserved  Cabinet,  and  is  kept 
locked,  but  a  small  fee  will  open  it.  It 
contains  the  celebrated  Vtniu  of  the  Cap- ' 
iiol,  perhaps  the  most  lovely  representation  , 
of  all  the  goddesses.  It  is  placed  on  a  pivot, 
that  the  custodian  may  display  it  in  all  its 
beauties.  This  room  also  contains  a  Cupid 
and  1'sychc,  and  a  group  of  Leda  and  the  . 
Swan.  A  room  on  the  same  side  as  the 
last,  near  the  stairway,  contains  the  Doves  • 
of  J'tiny,  one  of  the  linest  and  best-pro-  ' 
served  mosaics  of  antiquity.  It  represents 
four  doves  drinking,  surrounded  with  a 
lieautiful  border.  The.  celebrated  STATI  K 
of  MAUCTS  AritELirs,  standing  in  the 
square  of  the  Capitol,  is  probably  the  linest 
antique  equestrian  statue  remaining  to  us. 
The  sculptures  in  front  of  it  are  antiques 
dug  up  in  different  parts  of  the  city.  On 
the  right  of  the  ascent  is  the  Millearium, 
or  ancient  first  mile-stone  on  the  Appian. 
Ascending  the  steps  at  the  right  of  the 
square,  we  enter  a  street  which  leads  to  the 
TAUPEIAX  I!OCK.  Half  way  down  the  , 
street  a  sizn  indicates  the  residence  of  the 
custode  of  the  g'rounds.  and  a  knock  at  the 
door  will  summon  him  or  his  deputy. 
The  precipice  from  which  criminals  were 
thrown  down  is  much  diminished  in  height  | 
by  the  accumulation  of  rubbish  beneath, 
but  is  still  lofty  enough  to  insure  the  death 
(.fa  culprit  who  should  be  thrown  from  it. 
The  view  of  the  Palatine,  Aventiue,  and 
Ripa  Grande  from  here  is  line.  There  are 
remains  of  several  other  forums,  of  which 
the  FOKUM  TKAJAXVM  is  the  lin.'st.  con- 
VOL.  II.— O2 


taining  the  celebrated  COLUMN  OF  TRA- 
JAN, on  which  are  sculptured  tho  actions 
of  his  Dacian  campaign.  This  forum  was 
drM^ned  by  Apollodorus,  and  the  remains 
of  a  magnificent  temple,  partiallv  e.\i-a- 
vated.  are  evidence  of  its  magnificence. 
The  Forum  of  Augustus  (Via  lionella)  con- 
tains a  fragment  of  a  temple  to  MAI:N  I  i.- 
TOR.  The  FOISTM  <>K  I'ALLAS,  on  the  next 
street  southward,  is  indicated  by  two  col- 
umns of  a  colonnade  which  once  surround- 
ed the  place.  They  support  an  entabla- 
ture and  frieze,  with  a  statue  of  Minerva. 
This  forum  was  also  called  the  Forum  of 
Nerva  and  Forum  Transitorium.  The 
sites  of  several  others  are  known  by  frag- 
ments of  architecture,  but  will  scarcely  re- 
pay the  labor  of  visiting  to  the  voyager. 

Of  the  temples  which  remain  in  other 
parts  of  the  city,  and  not  already  men- 
tioned, the  most  interesting  are  the  P.vx- 
TKEOX,  to  which  the  traveler  will  make 
one  of  his  earliest  visits,  and  the  TEMPLE 
OF  NEPTCXE,  now  the  Roman  Custom- 
house. The  former  is  in  nearly  complete 
preservation,  and  its  massive  architecture 
and  extreme  simplicity  of  design  give  us 
the  best  idea  of  the  Roman  architectural 
genius  that  can  be  obtained  from  the  re- 
mains which  we  still  have.  It  was  built 
by  Agrippa  about  A.D.  27.  The  domed 
ceiling  is  lighted  by  a  circular  aperture  at 
the  summit,  the  wall  being  supported  by  a 
huge  bronze  ring.  The  interior  of  the 
rotunda  is  142  feet  in  diameter,  its  height 
1-13.  The  portico,  which  was  ptob*hly 
added  to  the  building  after  its  completion, 
is  111)  feet  in  length  and  44  in  depth,  com- 
posed of  16  granite  columns  with  marble 
capitals.  The  bronze  doors  are,  in  all  prob- 
ability, those  which  served  it  originally 
The  belfries  are  the  work  of  Bernini,  and, 
if  taste  ruled  modern  Rome,  would  long 
ago  have  l>een  torn  down. 

The  Pantheon  has  a  more  intense  inter- 
est to  moderns  in  containing  the  resting- 
place  of  the  bones  of  Raphael,  marked  by 
an  inscription  in  the  wall  of  the  third  chap- 
el to  the  left.  The  statue  of  the  Madonna 
in  this  chapel  was  his  gift,  and  was  execu- 
ted by  Lorenzo  Lotto  for  him.  In  1833 
the  tomb  was  opened  and  the  identity  of 
the  remains  proven,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
a  east  was  taken  of  the  skull  and  hand. 

Of  the  TEMPLE  OF  XEPTUXE  nothing  is 
visible  but  a  colonnade  ouilt  into  the  wall 
853 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME, 


of  the  modern  building.  There  are  some 
colossal  fragments,  beautifully  sculptured, 
lying  in  the  Colonna  gardens,  which  are 
supposed  to  have  been  part  of  Aurelian's 
Temple  of  the  Sun. 

In  the  church  of  S.  Niccolo  in  Carcere, 
Piazza  Montanara,  may  be  seen  fragments 
of  three  temples,  supposed  to  have  been 
those  of  JUNO  SOSPITA,  HOPE,  and  PIETY. 
It  is  supposed,  but  with  little  probability, 
that  the  central  one  was  the  site  of  the 
dungi'on  made  famous  by  the  devotion  of 
the  Horn  in  daughter  who  nursed  there  her 
father  condemned  to  die  of  starvation. 

In  the  gardens  of  the  convent  of  St.  Bar- 
tolomeo,  on  the  island  in  the  Tiber,  may 
be  seen  some  columns  and  fragments  of 
the  TEMPLE  OF  AESCULAPIUS,  and  from  the 
Ponte  Rotto  may  be  seen  a  fragment  of 
the  travertine  bulwark  of  the  SHIP  into 
which  the  island  was  shaped  when  it  was 
dedicated  to  the  God  of  Physic. 

Several  fragments  of  architecture  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  city  are  supposed  to 
have  been  parts  of  temples  of  which  we 
know  only  the  names  with  certainty  ;  but 
the  little  space  we  can  give  to  a  city  of 
which  volumes  are  written,  oblige  us  to 
omit  all  conjectural  antiquities  to  do  even 
partial  justice  to  those  which  are  better 
known  and  of  greater  interest. 

Of  the  many  theatres  and  amphitheatres 
formerly  existing  in  Rome,  the  COLOSSEUM 
is  already  noticed.  In  the  Piazza  Monta- 
nara is  a  most  interesting  fragment  of  the 
THEATRE  OF  MAKCELLUS,  showing  two 
stories  of  a  building,  in  its  construction 
somewhat  like  the  Colosseum,  and  of  which 
the  Palazzo  Orsini  occupies  the  greater 
portion  of  the  former  area. 

Near  it,  and  adjoining  the  Pescheria,or 
fish-market,  is  a  part  of  the  PORTICO  OF 
OCTAVIA,  built  by  Augustus  to  shelter  the 
spectators  when  driven  from  the  open  the- 
atre by  bad  weather. 

The  Palazzo  Cenci  is  built  on  the  ruins 
of  the  THEATRE  OF  BALBUS,  of  which  only 
two  columns,  with  a  portion  of  an  archi- 
trave, are  visible  in  an  adjoining  street. 

The  site  only  of  the  THEATRE  OK  POM- 
PEY  is  shown  by  the  Palazzo  Pio,  in  the 
foundations  of  which  some  fragments  of 
the  architecture  are  remaining. 

The  ARMY  AMPHITHEATRE  is  included 
in  the  city  wall,  where  it  turns  round  the 
church  of  Sta.  Croce  in  Gerusalemme.  It 
854 


is  of  brick,  and  supposed  to  have  been  built 
for  the  amusement  and  exercises  of  the 
troops,  and,  like  the  Prsetorian  camp,  orig- 
inally stood  outside  of  the  walls. 

We  have  mentioned  the  arc-lies  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Roman  Forum.  Besides 
these  are  those  of  DOLABELLA,  on  the 
Civliun.  a  single  arch  of  travertine,  of  most 
unpretending  style  and  size;  of  Ditrsrs. 
on  the  Appian  Way,  near  the  Porta  S.  S  - 
bastiano,  noteworthy  as  the  oldest  of  tin 
remaining  arches  erected  to  commemorate 
the  victories  of  Rome;  and  of  GALLIENCS, 
near  the  church  of  St.  Vito,  scon  at  yo;ir 
left  as  you  go  from  Sta.  Maria  Maggiore 
to  S.  Giovanni  Laterano.  The  latter  is 
supposed  to  indicate  the  site  of  the  Esqui- 
line  gate  of  the  Servian  Avail,  though  built 
about  A.D.  262. 

The  remains  of  the  public  baths  are  the 
most  impressive  ruins  of  Rome  excepting 
the  Colosseum.  Those  of  DIOCLETIAN, 
with  the  church  of  Sta.  Maria  dcgli  Ange- 
li,  erected  from  the  great  hall,  and  other 
large  masses  of  masonry  more  or  Isss  in- 
dicative of  the  original  form  and  massive- 
ness,  give  to  the  traveler,  on  his  entry  into 
Rome  by  the  Piazza  de  Termini,  his  first 
idea  of  Roman  magnificence.  They  once 
covered  the  whole  space  now  occupied  by 
the  railway  station,  the  Piazza,  Villa  Ne- 
groni, and  as  far  as  the  Via  di  Porta  Pia, 
including  the  little  round  church  of  S.  Ber- 
nardo, which  is  only  a  smaller  circular  hall 
of  the  baths  refitted. 

Of  the  baths  of  Titus  we  have  already 
spoken.  Of  the  masses  of  ruin  included 
under  this  title,  and  those  adjoining,  we 
know  little  except  by  conjecture;  only 
that  originally  the  house  and  gardens  of 
Mecamas  stood  there,  that  they  were  built 
on  by  Nero,  then  by  Titus,  and  probably 
by  subsequent  emperors. 

The  tombs  of  ancient  Rome  constitute 
the  most  striking  feature  in.  its  general  as- 
pect. Of  those  in  the  city,  the  TOMB  OF 
HADRIAN,  now  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo, 
and  that  of  Augustus,  the  present  day- 
theatre,  are  the  most  imposing,  and,  even 
as  they  are  now  to  be  seen,  convey  no  fee- 
ble idea  of  the  greatness  of  their  builders. 
In  the  latter  were  buried  Augustus,  Dru- 
RUS,  Germanicus,  and  Agrippina,  Tiberius, 
Claudius,  and  Nerva,  with  Agrippa;  Oc- 
tavia,  sister  of  Augustus;  Li  via,  his  wife; 
Marcellus,  his  nephew;  Drusus,  son  of 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


Livia  by  a  former  husband,  and  Drusus, 
son  of  Tiberius. 

The  MAUSOLEUM  OF  HADRIAN*  was  the 
tomb  of  the  emperors  from  his  time  down 
to  Septimius  Sevenis.  The  present  struct- 
ure is  only  the  core  of  the  mausoleum,  and 
was  covered  originally  by  a  shell  of  Pa- 
rian marble,  and  ornamented  with  statues, 
whirl)  wen.:  turn  oil' to  be  used  as  missiles 
against  the  Cintlis,  and  later  as  cimmu 
balls,  of  which  piles  now  lie  on  the  ram- 
part made  of  the  finest  Parian  marble. 
Through  the  Middle  Ages,  this,  like  the 
tomb  of  Aiu'ustus,  and  other  ruins  of  any 
size,  was  used  as  a  fortress,  and  all  the  fine 
marbles  were  peeled  off  to  be  burnt  into 
lime.  Permission  to  enter  the  castle  and 
gee  the  prisons,  including  those  of  the  Cen- 
ci,  may  be  obtained  from  the  commandant 
de  place. 

The  SEPULCHRE  OF  THE  SCIPIOS,  on 
the  Via  Appia,  is  interesting  not  only  as 
showing  the  resting-place  of  a  great  fam- 
ily, hut  as  an  early  example  of  the  kind  of 
Inirvin^-placc  which  afterward  was  known 
as  a  catacomb.  It  is  a  series  of  galleries 
in  the  rock,  with  sepulchral  chambers,  in 
which,  in  1780,  were  found  the  sarcophagi 
of  manj-  of  the  Scipios. 

The  COLUMBARIA,  near  the  sepulchre 
of  the  Scipios,  are  exceedingly  interesting. 
One,  in  the  same  vineyard  with  the  sep- 
ulchre, is  the  resting-place  of  the  ashes  of 
numerous  members  of  the  family  of  Julius 
CiEsar. 

Of  the  numerous  piazzas  of  Rome,  the 
modern  representations  of  the  forums  of 
the  ancient  city,  the  finest  is  the  PIAZZA 
XAVOXA,  the  great  market-place,  occupy- 
ing the  site  of  the  Circus  Agonalis,  where 
St.  Agnes  was  beheaded,  and  where  now 
the  splendid  church  of  St.  Agnes  stands, 
which  was  erected  in  memory  of  her. 
Wednesday  is  the  market-day,  and  the  pi- 
azza is  well  wortli  a  visit  on  this  day. 
The  PIAZZA  DEL  POPOLO.  under  the  Pin- 
cian,  contains  the  obelisk  taken  by  Augus- 
tus from  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Helinp- 
olis,  and  raised  in  the  Circus  Maximus ; 
and  a  church,  S.Maria  del  Popolo,  said  to 
have  been  built  to  lay  the  ghost  of  Nero. 
There  are  in  this  church  some  fine  paint- 
in,--;  by  Pinturicchio.  Tin-  PIA/./..V  in 
SPAGXA  i-  tin-  centre  of  the  Stranger*' 
Quarter,  and  will  be  better  remembered  fur 
the  models  who  sun  themselves  pleasant 


afternoons  on  the  flight  of  steps  leading 
from  it  up  to  the  PIAZZA  DI  TKIXITA  HE 
MOXTI.  At  the  head  of  those  steps  is  the 
church  which  contains  the  DESCENT  FROM 
THE  CROSS  by  Volterra.  The  house  wliieii 
forms  the  angle  between  the  Vias  Gregori- 
ana  and  Sistiiri  was  inhabited  by  Claude, 
the  one  opposite  the  steps  by  Poussin. 
The  PIAZZA  m  MOXTI:  CAVALLO,  on  the 
Quirinal,  gives  entrance  to  the  ROSPIOLI- 
osi  PALACE,  where  is  the  Aurora  of  Gui- 
do.  The  two  colossal  horses  here  are 
stupidly  styled  the  work  of  Phidias  and 
Praxiteles,  since  there  is  nothing  in  them 
to  entitle  them  to  be  considered  Greek 
work. 

The  PIAZZAS  BARBERIXA,  DELLE  TAR- 
TARCGHE,  TREVI,  and  XAVOXA  contain 
fountains  worthy  of  notice.  There  is  a 
popular  superstition  that  whoever  drinks 
of  the  water  of  Trevi  the  night  before  leav- 
ing Rome  will  be  sure  to  return.  The 
PIA/.X.A  PAS(jrix<>,  near  the  Xavona,  con- 
tains the  famous  PASQUIX,  a  fragment  of 
Greek  sculpture  of  the  highest  order  of 
art,  but  badly  mutilated.  Here  are  posted 
the  political  squibs  of  Rome 

BASILICAS  AXD   CHURCHES. 

ST.  PETER'S,  the  great  marvel  of  Chris- 
tian Rome,  is  built  on  or  near  the  place 
where  stood  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Vatica- 
nus,  so  called  because  it  was  the  place 
where  the  rates,  or  augurs,  made  their  au- 
guries from  the  victims  sacrificed,  and  from 
which  is  derived  the  name  borne  by  the  pa- 
pal palace  of  the  Vatican.  The  first  struc- 
ture on  this  site  was  an  oratory  erected  in 
A.D.  90  to  indicate  the  place  where  St. 
Peter  was  buried.  Constantino  the  Great 
erected  a  basilica  on  the  spot.  The  pres- 
ent structure  was  commenced  by  Julius  II. 
about  1503,  under  the  direction  of  Braman- 
ti ;  but  the  present  form  of  the  basilica  is 
due  more  to  Michael  Angelo  than  to  any 
other  of  the  many  architects  employed  on 
it.  The  front  of  the  building  was  design- 
ed by  Carlo  Maderno,  who  made  great  and 
injurious  alterations  in  the  design  of  Mi- 
chael Angelo. 

The  colonnades  around  t!i-  piazza  were 
de-Mgiu'd  by  He-mini.  They  inclose  a  space 
7>7  (Vet  in  diameter,  and  are  connected 
with  the  facade  by  two  galleries  296  feet 
in  length.  The  facade  is  379  feet  long  and 
148J  high,  and  contains  five  doors,  which 
855 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


idimt  us  tc  t\ie  vestibule,  or  grand  en- 
trance, which  occupies  the  whole  width 
of  the  church,  468  feet  long,  CG  high,  and 
50  wide. 

"Enter!  its  prandcur  overwhelms  tlice  not; 
And  why?  it  is  not  lessened;  but  thy  mind, 
Expanded  by  the  genius  of  the  spot, 
Has  grown  colossal,  and  can  only  find 
A  fit  abode  wherein  appear  enshrined 
Thy  hopes  of  immortality ;  and  thou 
Shalt  <jne  day,  if  found  worthy,  ?o  defined, 
See  thy  God  face  to  face,  as  thou  dust  now 
His  Holy  of  Holies,  nor  be  blasted  by  his  brow." 

And  who  £hat  does  enter  will  fail  to  be  im- 
pressed with  the  grandeur  of  the  interior, 
with  its  statues,  vestibules,  and  other  beau- 
ties ?  When  in  the  interior  we  find  among 
its  attractions  the  nave,  beautifully  orna- 
mented, with  its  massive  piers,  arches,  and 
fine  pavement  composed  of  marbles ;  its 
dome,  which  commands  the  admiration  of 
all  strangers ;  the  baldichino,  or  canopy, 
covering  the  high -altar,  composed  of 
bronze,  from  the  designs  of  Bernini ;  the 
tribune,  the  gilding  of  which  cost  $100,000, 
decorated  from  the  designs  of  Michael  An- 
gelo,  rich  in  ornament?,  at  the  bottom  of 
which  is  the  bronze  chair  of  St.  Peter.  The 
interior  is  613  feet  in  length,  the  height 
of  the  nave  152J ;  the  length  of  the  tran- 
septs is  446J.  The  interior  diameter  of  the 
dome  is  139  feet,  the  exterior  195J;  the 
height  from  the  pavement  to  the  base  of 
the  lantern  is  405  feet,  to  the  top  of  the 
cross  448  feet. 

Monuments. — The  ancient  monuments  of 
St.  Peter's  are  generally  inferior  to  the 
other  works  of  art  contained  in  this  edifice ; 
there  are  some,  however,  quite  remarka- 
ble, such  as  the  mausoleum  of  Paul  III., 
by  Giuglielmo  della  Porta ;  monument  of 
Urban  VTII.,  principally  from  the  design 
of  Bernini;  tomb  of  Alexander  VIII.,  by 
Arrigo  di  San  Martino ;  tomb  of  Alexan- 
der VII.,  last  work  of  Bernini ;  tomb  of 
Pius  VII.,  executed  by  Thorwaldsen  at 
the  expense  of  Cardinal  Gonsalvi ;  por- 
phyry sarcophagus,  with  alabaster  drap- 
ing, and  a  medallion  portrait  of  Maria 
Clementina  Sobieska,  wife  of  the  Pretender 
James  III. ;  monument  of  the  Stuarts — 
celebrated  work  of  Canova's.  In  the  north 
aisle  of  the  church  is  the  chapel,  contain- 
ing the  celebrated  Pieta,  by  Michael  An- 
gelo,  one  of  his  finest  works,  executed  at 
the  age  of  24 ;  the  group  representing  the 
Virgin  with  the  body  of  the  dead  Saviour  on 
806 


i  her  knees :  on  the  girdle  of  the  Virgin 
Michael  Angelo  has  inscribed  his  name,  an 
uncommon  occurrence  among  his  works. 
In  the  Capella  della  Colonna  Santa  is  the 
monument  of  Christina,  queen  of  Sweden, 
representing  her  abjuration  of  Protestant- 
ism in  the  Cathedral  of  Innsbruck,  16G5. 
The  chapsl  of  the  Holy  Sacrament  con- 
tains the  tomb  of  Sixtus  IV.  in  bronze; 
tomb  of  Gregory  XIII.;  also  of  Gregory 
XIV.,  who  received  but  a  miserable  monu- 
mental offering  to  his  memory.  In  the 
chapel  of  the  Madonna  dtl  Xoccorso  lie* 
buried  St.  Gregory  Nazianzenus :  tomb  of 
Gregory  XV. ;  also  the  splendid  monu- 
ment of  Gregory  XVI.  But  the  great 
feature  here  is  the  magnificent  tomb  of 
Clement  XIII.,  by  Canova,  one  of  the  few 
worthy  specimens  of  sculpture  in  St.  Pe- 
ter's. It  was  commenced  in  the  artist's 
30th  year  ;  he  was  employed  on  it  ei  Jit 
years.  It  is  by  many  considered  liis  mas- 
terpiece. In  all  of  the  ahove-named  chap- 
els are  many  specimens  of  fine  frescoes, 
statues,  altars,  etc. 

The  Sacristy,  Chapel  of  the  Confessional, 
the  Grotto  Vaticano,  and  Grotto  Nuovo, 
are  full  of  interest  and  history. 

The  ascent  of  (he  dome  can  only  be  allow- 
ed by  obtaining  an  order  from  the  direc- 
tor of  the  Fabbrica  of  St.  Peter's,  or  from 
your  minister  or  consul.  Visitors  are  ad- 
mitted from  8  to  10  o'clock.  From  this 
summit  a  correct  idea,  and,  in  fact,  the 
only  correct  one,  may  be  obtained  of  the 
immense  size  of  St.  Peter's,  when,  as  we 
view  persons  passing  along  the  pavement, 
we  can  scarcely  realize  them  to  be  human 
beings,  so  diminutive  are  they  in  appear- 
ance. The  cross  is  16  feet  in  height,  and 
the  immense  ball,  which  is  an  interesting 
feature,  composed  of  copper  plates,  is  eight 
feet  in  diameter,  and  capable  of  accommo- 
dating 16  persons. 

The  subterranean  church  m&y  be  visited 

;  by  gentlemen   any  forenoon   (except  on 

jfestas)  between  9  and  11,  but  by  ladies 
only  on  Whitsunday,  or  by  special  permis- 

!  sion  obtained  from  your  minister,  banker, 
or  by  one  of  the  regular  agents  employed 
for  this  purpose. 


The  ceremonies  of  St.  Peter's  are  not 
the  same  as  before  the  Italian  occupation, 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


HOME. 


and  many  of  them  have  beeiv  discontinued. '  top  of  the  facade  is  decorated  with  15  stat- 
We  give  them  as  they  were  before,  and  ues  of  our  Saviour  and  saints.  In  the  ves- 
may  be  again:  New -Year's  Mass,  at  10  tibule,  an  ancient  marble  represents  Con- 
A.M..  January  1st,  when  the  Pope  is  at  stantine,  from  his  baths  on  the  (juiriual. 
the  Vatican  palace.  Vespers  in  the  Sis-  The  interior  is  divided  into  live  aisles, 
tine,  January  5th,  3  P.M.  Epiphany,  Jan-  The  colossal  statues  of  the  twelve  apostles 
uarv  Gth,  high  mass  at  10  A.M.  January  fill  up  the  pillars  of  the  nave.  This  church 
18th,  Chair  of  St.  Peter's.  February  2d,  comprises  one  of  the  finest  chapels  in  Home, 
Purification  of  the  Virgin.  Holy  Week  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  with  a  cen- 
ceremonies  commence  with  Palm  Sunday  ;  tral  dome  magnificently  decorated  with 
continue  Wednesday  with  TKXKUK.K  in  the  gilding,  marbles,  and  pictures,  bearing  the 
Sistine  Chapel  and  St.  Peter's  (side  chapel)  title  of  the  Corsini  Chapel.  A  mosaic  copy 
at  4|  P.M.  Thursday,  high  mass  in  the  of  Giulio's  picture  of  S.  Andrea  Corsini 
Sistine  at  10  A.M.,  and  benediction  from  adorns  the  altar.  Among  the  tombs  are 
the  balcony.  Also  the  washing  of  the  feet,  those  of  Cardinal  Xeri,  Corsini.  and  dem- 
and the  dinner  of  the  thirteen  priests,  who  ent  XII.,  which  formerly  stood  under  the 
represent  the  twelve  apostles,  and  another  portico  of  the  Pantheon.  The  high-altar, 
who  appeared  to  Gregory  the  Great  at  a  standing  beneath  a  superb  Gothic  taberna- 
feet-washing,  and  is  since  represented.  At  j  cle,  is  a  remarkable  specimen  of  the  14th 
•H,  TENEBR.K  as  on  Wednesday.  Friday,  century:  within  is  a  table  of  wood,  upon 
TEXEHR.E,  as  before,  and  procession  to  the  which  tradition  says  officiated  St.  Peter, 
tomb  of  St.  Peter.  Easter  Sunday,  high  In  the  left-hand  transept  is  the  altar  of 
mass  at  9i,  the  Pope  officiating,  with  grand  the  Holy  Sacrament,  with  its  four  gilt 
procession,  and  greater  benediction  at  noon  bronze  columns,  which  are  said  to  have 
from  the  balcony  in  front.  June  28th,  the  belonged  to  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Capito- 
procession  of  CORPUS  DOMINI.  "29th,  high  linus,  cast  from  the  bronze  rostra  captured 
mass  at  10  A.M.  Christmas,  grand  mass  at  the  battle  of  Actiuin  by  Augustus.  Near 
at  10  A.M.  Vespers  are  sung  every  day  this  is  the  Portico  J.tonino,  in  which  is  a  ta- 
from  3  to  4\  P.M.  in  the  side  chapel.  To  ble  of  cedar  wood,  said  to  be  that  on  which 
obtain  admission  to  the  seats  or  privileged  the  Lust  Supper  was  eaten.  The  second 
places  either  in  the  body  of  the  church  or  chapel  on  the  right  was  purchased  by  the 
in  the  Sistine  at  Holy  Week  and  Christ-  Torlonias,  and  converted  into  a  mausole- 
mas  ceremonies,  ladies  must  be  in  black  um.  It  was  magnificently  decorated  in 
dress  with  a  black  veil,  and  gentlemen  in  gold  and  marble,  said  to  have  cost  upward 
evening  dress.  \  of  $300,000.  The  chapel  of  the  Massino 

The  LATERAN  BASILICA  is  built  on  the  family  contains  some  good  sepulchral  mon- 
site  of  the  house  of  the  senator  Plautius  uments,  etc.  The  principal  ceremonies 
Lateranus,  who  was  put  to  death  by  which  occur  in  St.  John  I-ateran  are  on 
Nero  for  conspiracy.  Constantino  gave  the  Saturday  before  Easter,  on  Ascension 
the  house  to  the  Bishop  of  Rome,  and  Day.  and  on  the  festival  of  St.  John  the 
founded  this  basilica  in  the  fourth  ccntu-  Baptist.  The  cloisters  still  retain  their 
ry.  since  when  it  has  taken  rank  as  the  beauties,  and  from  the  rear  of  them  may 
mother  of  all  Christian  churches.  There  be  obtained  a  fine  view  of  the  remains  of 
is  but  little  left  of  the  old  church,  a  few  the  decorations  of  the  old  basilica.  The 
columns  only  being  seen  in  the  nave.  It  Baptistery  of  S.  Giovanni  in  Fontc  is  full 
in  former  times  ranked  higher  than  St.  of  interest  and  art.  Opposite  the  I.ateran 
Peter's.  The  popes  are  always  crowned  is  the  ticala  Santa,  or  stairs,  supposed  to 
here,  and  for  1500  years  it  has  retained  its  have  been  those  of  Pilate's  house  up  which 
privileges.  One  of  the  first  forms  observed  Christ  was  led  to  \ie  judged, 
on  the  election  of  a  new  pope  is  the  cere-  STA.  MARIA  MA<:<;I<>RK.  so  called  be- 
mony  of  taking  possession  of  the  Lateran  cause  the  largest  of  the  numerous  churches 
Basilica.  The  front,  consisting  of  a  mag-  dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  was  founded  on  the 
nilicent  colonnade,  is  very  impressive.  Esi|uiline.  A.D.  ::.V_',  by  Pope  Liberius, 
There  are  five  entrances,  the  one  in  the  from  whom  it  is  called  the  Liberian  Basil- 
centre  having  a  bronze  door,  taken  from  ica,  and  was  erected  to  commemorate  a  mi- 
tbe  Temple  of  Peace  in  the  Forum.  The  ,  raculous  fall  of  snow  which  took  place  in 

857 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


the  month  of  August,  covering  the  space 
now  occupied  by  the  basilica.  The  inte- 
rior is  the  most  lieautiful  of  its  kind  in  ex- 
istence ;  the  roof  is  elaborately  carved,  and 
gilded  with  superior  gold  brought  to  Spain 
from  South  America,  presented  by  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella  to  Alexander  VI.  Sis- 
tine  Chapel,  or  llo'y  Sacrament,  erected  by 
Sixtus  V.,  is  rich  in  marbles  and  other 
decorations.  In  a  small  chapel  underneath 
the  high-altar  are  preserved  the  boards  of 
the  manger  in  which  the  Saviour  was  laid 
after  his  birth :  a  solemn  ceremon y  and  pro- 
cession on  Christmas  eve  commemorates 
this  subject :  five  boards  of  the  manger  com- 
pose the  cradle  in  which  the  Saviour  was 
deposited  at  his  nativity.  An  urn  of  silver 
and  crystal  inclose  these  relics ;  on  the  top 
is  a  figure  of  the  child.  The  Cappella  Pao- 
lina,  or  Borghesiana,  belonging  to  the  Bor- 
ghese  family,  far  surpasses  the  Sistine 
chapel  in  the  richness  of  its  decorations. 
Beneath  the  chapel  are  the  sepulchral  fam- 
ily vaults.  The  Princess  Borghese  and  her 
three  children  were  the  last  that  were  de- 
posited there.  The  death  of  this  princess 
was  universally  regretted,  she  being  much 
beloved  for  her  unbounded  benevolence, 
virtues,  and  many  good  works.  The  cere- 
monies which  take  place  in  this  basilica 
during  the  year  are  of  a  very  imposing 
nature.  This  church  contains  in  its  nave 
some  mosaics  interesting  as  being  among 
the  oldest  examples  of  Christian  art  in  ex- 
istence. They  are  certainly  above  a  thou- 
sand years  old.  The  interior  of  the  church 
is  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  has  recently 
been  enriched  by  the  tomb  of  Pius  IX., 
•who  has  chosen  it  as  his  place  of  sepulture. 
This  tomb  is  decorated  with  the  rarest  and 
most  beautiful  marbles,  and  stones  of  great 
value,  lapis-lazuli  and  malachite,  and  it 
probably  surpasses  in  this  way  any  thing 
else  in  existence.  The  Pauline  chapel  in 
this  basilica  contains  the  miraculous  pic- 
ture of  the  Virgin  and  Child,  attributed  to 
St.  Luke,  and  which  Gregory  the  Great 
carried  in  procession  to  stop  the  plague  in 
A.D.  590.  In  front  of  this  church  stands 
a  column  taken  from  the  Basilica  of  Con- 
stantino, and  which  was  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin  A.D.  1613. 

The  most  gorgeous  and  costly  of  the  ba- 
silicas is  that  of  ST.  PAUL  WITHOUT  THE 
WALLS,  on  the  road  to  Ostia,  and  1J  miles 
beyond  the  gate  St.  Paul.     It  was  com- 
858 


menced  by  Valentinian  II.  and  Theodosius 
in  A.D.  388,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  one 
by  Constantine,  over  the  Catacombs,  where 
was  buried  Lucina,  a  noble  Roman  lady. 
It  was  restored  in  the  8th  century,  but 
burned  in  tin;  year  1^'2:!,  leaving  only  the 
western  facade,  the  tribune,  with  some  in- 
teresting mosaics  of  the  13th  century,  and 
some  columns,  and  a  colonnade.  It  has 
been  restored  on  the  plan  of  the  original 
building,  and  now  stands  the  most  gor- 
geous monument  of  Catholic  devotion  tlio'* 
world  can  show.  Under  its  high-altar  lie 
the  remains  (according  to  the  church  au- 
thorities) of  Sts.  Peter  and  Paul.  Nothing 
could  be  more  beautiful  than  this  edifice, 
with  its  magnificent  nave  and  aisles,  its 
roof  so  exquisitely  carved,  its  granite  col- 
umns, 80  in  number,  of  the  Corinthian  or- 
der, etc.  The  high-altar,  standing  under 
a  splendid  canopy,  supported  by  4  columns 
of  white  alabaster,  which  were  presented 
by  Mehemet  All,  late  Viceroy  of  Egypt,  to 
Gregory  XVI.  In  the  centre  of  the  trib- 
une, which  is  very  elegant,  stands  a  rich' 
ly  decorated  episcopal  chair,  composed  of 
marble,  and  on  either  side  one  of  four  col- 
umns, saved  from  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
basilica,  of  violet  marble.  The  series  of 
imaginary  portraits  of  the  Popes  were  ex- 
ecuted at  the  mosaic  establishment  in  the 
Vatican.  At  the  extreme  end  of  the  trib- 
une a  handsome  bell-tower  has  been  erect- 
ed. 

The  cloister  of  the  Benedictines  adjoin- 
ing is  a  most  interesting  example  of  that 
kind  of  architecture  of  the  12th  and  13th 
centuries. 

The  BASILICA  OK  ST.  LORENZO,  on  the 
road  to  Tivoli,  is  of  the  earl}-  epoch  of  Chris- 
tian architecture,  and  contains  some  inter- 
esting fragments  of  antiquity,  amongwhich 
are  some  columns,  probably  from  the  Por- 
tico of  Octavia. 

The  most  lieautiful  and  complete  of  the 
churches  of  the  Basilica  order  is  ST.  A<t- 
M:S  OTTSIDK  THE  WALLS,  a  mile  from  the 
Porta  Pia,  on  the  Via  Nomentana.  It  was 
founded  by  Constantine,  and  still  preserves 
its  antique  form  and  character  of  ornament' 
ation.  Close  by  it  stands  the  Baptistery  of 
S.  Constanza,  of  the  same  period.  «nd  in 
which  are  some  mosaics  contemporary  with 
the  building. 

The  BASILICA  OF  THE  SS.  APOSTOLI 
contains  the  remains  of  SS.  Philip  and 


KOMK. 


[ITALY.] 


KOMK. 


James.     Michael  Angelo  was  buried  here,  j 
but  his  body  was  afterward  carried  to  Flor- 
ence.   In  the  portico  is  an  interesting  alto- 
relievo  of  a  Roman  eagle  -with  the  laurel 
wreath. 

The  BASILICA  OF  S.  CEOLIA,  in  the 
Trastevere,  contains  the  exquisite  statue, 
bv  Maderno,  representing  the  body  of  the 
saint  as  it  was  found  in  the  Catacombs  where 
it  was  buried:  it  is  of  the  17th  century. 

>.  '  'I.KMKXTE  is  remarkable  for  the  sub-  . 
tcrranean  basilica  which  has  recently  been 
excavated  beneath  it,  with  its  columns  still  j 
standing,  and  frescoes  perfect  as  when  the 
church  was  buried.  They  arc  the  earliest 
known  examples  of  Christian  painting,  if 
we  except  those  of  the  Catacombs,  and 
probably  date  from  the  8th  century.  The 
interior  of  the  modern  church  contains 
some  exquisitely  carved  marble  railings, 
and  the  two  reading-desks  of  the  early 
Christian  churches,  and  some  interesting 
frescoes  by  Masaccio. 

v  I'ir.THO  ix  ViNtoi-i,  a  basilica,  so 
called  because  it  was  built  to  preserve  the 
chain  with  which  Peter  was  bound  in  Je- 
rusalem. It  contains  Michael  Angelo's 
Moses,  and  two  other  figures,  also  by  him, 
are  placed  each  side  of  this,  the  greatest  of 
his  works. 

Of  the  churches  we  shall  only  mention 
those  of  special  interest  historically  or  ar- 
tistically. 

S.  AGOSTIXO,  near  the  Piazza  Xavona. 
contains  the  famous  Madonna,  on  which 
gifts  to  the  value  of  millions  of  scudi  are 
hung,  and  to  which  the  greatest  miracu- 
lous power  is  attributed.  In  this  church 
is  the  ISAIAH  OK  RAPHAEL. 

S.  AXGKLO  ix  I'i:s<  IIKIMA,  adjoining 
the  fish -market,  and  near  the  Ghetto,  is 
the  church  where  Kien/.i  called  the  first 
mass  meetings  of  the  Romans  to  inaugu- 
rate his  revolution,  and  where  he  prepared 
himself  by  religious  exercises  for  his  work. 

S.  MAIMA  ix  AHA  C<EI.I  contains  the 
miraculous  bambino,  or  image  of  the  in- 
fant Christ,  for  which  a  most  curious  festi- 
val is  made  on  Christinas  and  the  succeed- 
ing days.  The  exhibition  of  the  Bambino 
at  sunset  to  the  crowd  of  its  adorers  in  the 
piazza  is  one  of  the  most  striking  of  the 
Roman  sjwc; 

The  Church  of  the  CAPIMTIXI,  on  the 
Fiazza  Barberini,  contains  Guide's  ••Mi- 
chael," Gherardo  della  Kotte's  "Christ 


mocked,  "and  some  other  pictures  of  inter- 
est: also  the  famous  Capuchin  Cemetery, 
one  of  the  most  curious  and,  at  the  same 
time,  tasteless  objects  of  curiosity  to  be 
seen.  The  vaults  are  decorate  1  with  or- 
naments of  human  bones,  and  skeletons 
lie  on  couches  of  bones  covered  by  cano- 
pies of  like  material. 

S.  LOKEXZO  IN  LITIXA,  in  the  Piazza 
of  that  name,  contains  the  tomb  of  Pous- 
sin.  S.  Luigi  de  Francesi  contains  some 
tine  pictures  of  Domenichino. 

S.  MARIA  ix  LOKETO,  a  copy  of  the 
house  of  the  Virgin  brought  by  angels  to 
Loreto,  has  one  of  the  most  tasteful  and 
unaffected  modern  statues  in  Rome,  the 
S.  Susanna,  by  Fiammingo,  and  a  picture 
of  great  interest  by  Perngino. 

S.  MAIM  A  SOPIJA  MIXERVA.  built  on  the 
ruins  of  a  temple  of  Minerva,  contains  Mi- 
chael Angelo's  ''Christ,"  some  pictures  by 
Fra  Angelico  and  Filippino  Lippi,  with  a 
crucifix  by  Giotto,  and  the  tomb  of  Fra 
Angelico. 

In  S.  MAKIA  DKM.A  PACK,  near  the  Pi- 
azza Xavona.  are  the  four  Sibyls  of  Ra- 
phael. S.  Maria  in  Via  Lata  is  supposed 
to  be  built  on  the  spot  where  St.  Paul  was 
lodged  with  the  centurion. 

S.  MAHTIXO  DK  MONTI  is  adorned  by 
some  excellent  landscape  frescoes  by  Gas- 
par  Poussin,  and  some  figures  by  Nicolo. 

S.  ONOFRIO,  on  the  Janiculum.  is  hal- 
lowed by  l>eing  the  resting-place  of  Tasso, 
who  passed  the  last  years  of  his  life  in  the 
convent  adjoining.  There  are  picture^  I  y 
Da  Vinci,  Pinturicchio,  Perugino,  Anni- 
bal  Caracci,  and  Domenichino.  The  view 
of  Rome  from  here  is  fine. 

S.  PRASSEDE  contains  some  mosaics  of 
the  9th  century,  illustrated  in  Kitgler. 

S.  PrnEXTiAXA,  near  the   S.  M.  M=ig- 
giore,  is  supposed  to  be  the  first  of  Chris- 
tian churches,  and  to  occupy  the  house  of 
the  senator  Pudeus.wliich  was  the  ti: 
idence  of  Peter  in  Rome. 

S.  STEFAXO  ROTOXDO  is  an  interesting 
building,  and  probably  a  pagiin  structure, 
converted  into  a  church  in  the  earliest  day* 
of  Christianity. 

There  are  numerous  other  churches  of 
less  importance,  if  the  traveler  have  time 
to  devote  to  them. 


859 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


GALLERIES. 
VATICAN. 


The  Vatican  is  the  Capitol  of  modern 
Rome,  and  its  gallery  of  sculpture  the  most 
complete  and  valuable  in  existence.  It  is 
three  stories  high,  and  comprises  an  infi- 
nite number  of  saloons,  galleries,  corridors, 
chapels,  a  library  of  100,000  volumes,  a 
museum  which  is  immense,  20  courts,  8 
grand  stairways,  and  200  small  ones.  The 
historian  Bonanni  pretends  that  there  are 
13,000  chambers  in  the  different  buildings  ; 
5000,  perhaps,  would  come  nearer  the  truth. 
It  is  far  superior  to  any  in  the  world  in 
history,  being  the  most  ancient,  and  de- 
cidedly the  most  celebrated  of  all  the  p  i- 
pal  palaces,  composed  of  a  mass  of  build- 
ings erected  by  man}'  different  popes,  cov- 
ering a  space  1200  feet  in  length  and  1000 
in  breadth.  It  is  at  present  the  only  resi- 
dence of  the  Pope. 

The  entrance  to  the  Vatican  is  by  the 
colonnade  to  the  right  of  St.  Peter's,  up  the 
royal  staircase,  past  the  equestrian  statue 
of  Constantino  the  Great,  to  the  Sistine 
Chapel.  It  is  absolutely  necessary,  how- 
ever, the  first  time  one  visits  the  Vatican, 
to  take  a  valet  de  place,  and  note  well  the 
different  turnings  and  doors  where  it  is 
necessary  to  ring  or  knock  to  gain  admit- 
tance, else  one  is  certain  to  get  bewilder- 
ed. The  Scala  Reyia,  or  grand  staircase, 
leads  to  the  S  da  Regi'.i,  used  as  a  hall  of 
audience  for  the  embassadors.  This  hall 
is  finely  decorated  with  stucco  ornaments, 
and  covered  with  frescoes  illustrating 
events  in  the  history  of  the  popas.  The 
Cappilla  Ststina,  or  Sistine  Chapel,  which 
opens  from  this  hall,  is  generally  closed, 
but  by  knocking  at  the  door  it  will  be 
opened  by  the  custodian,  who  will  expect 
three  or  four  pauls'  fee  for  a  party.  This 
chapel  was  named  after  Pope  Sixtus  IV., 
who  built  it  in  1472,  is  134  feet  in  length, 
and  41  in  width.  The  frescoes  arc  very 
fine,  being  executed  by  many  eminent  art- 
ists, who  were  employed  by  the  Pope  to 
decorate  the  chapel.  The  roof,  commenced 
in  1508,  after  Michael  Angelo's  return  to 
Roma,  was  completed  in  1512.  The  sub- 
jects are  principally  taken  from  the  Old 
Testament,  and  are  carried  out  with  grand- 
eur and  sublime  majesty.  The  Tenebraj 
and  Miserere  of  Allegri  are  sung  in  this 
chapel  during  Holy  Week  by  the  papal 
860 


choir.  Opposite  the  entrance  are  the  great 
frescoes  of  the  Last  Judgment,  60  feet  in 
height  and  30  feet  broad.  At  the  request 
of  Clement  VII..  this  great  work  was  de- 
signed and  executed  by  Michael  Angclo 
when  in  his  sixtieth  year. 

The  Cappella  Paulina  is  remarkable  for 
containing  two  celebrated  frescoes  by  Mi- 
chael Angelo. 

Passing  to  the  right,  under  the  colon- 
nade to  the  court  of  San  Damaso,  and  as- 
cending the  stairway,  we  arrive  at  the 
Logie  of  Raphael,  which  are  divided  into 
13  arcades  :  these  are  painted  after  designs 
by  Raphael. 

From  the  Loges  you  enter  the  Stanz?,or 
Chambers  of  Raphael,  which  are  four  in 
number :  here  an  extra  fee  is  expected. 
The  first  room  entered  is  called  the  Sola 
of  Constant  inf.  The  whole  was  designed 
by  Raphael,  but  his  untimely  death  put  a 
stop  to  the  work.  Raphael  had  commenced 
to  paint  it  in  oil :  it  was  finished,  however, 
by  his  pupil,  Giulio  Romano,  in  fresco.  It 
is  thought  that  Raphael  finished  the  two 
splendid  figures  of  Justice  and  Mensuetu- 
do  on  each  side  of  the  great  picture  The 
defeat  of  Maxentius  by  Constant  ine,  one  of 
the  largest  historical  pictures  ever  painted. 
The  other  subjects  are  The  Cross  ajipennny 
to  Constantine,  by  Giulio  Romano — (notice 
the  grotesque  figure  of  a  fool  celebrated  at 
the  court  of  Clement  VII.) — the  Baptism 
of  Constantine  by  St.  Sylvester,  and  the  Do- 
nation of  Rome  to  the  Popes  ;  the  first  paint- 
ed by  Frank  Penni.  and  the  last  by  Raphael 
da  Colle.  The  ceiling  of  this  room  was 
painted  by  Lauretti. 

The  next  room  is  the  Sala  of  Tfeliodnrtis. 
The  first  picture  represents  Ileliodorus,  the 
Syrian  general,  chased  from  the  Temple 
(which  he  went  to  rob)  by  two  angels  and 
the  celestial  horseman  of  the  Maccabees. 
Raphael  designed  this  picture  in  allusion 
to  tho  military  success  of  Julius  II.,  who 
had  said.  "  It  is  necessary  to  throw  the 
kej's  of  St.  Peter  into  the  Tiber,  and  tako 
the  sword  of  St.  Paul  to  deliver  the  coun- 
try of  the  barbarians."  This  composition 
I  is  considered  the  most  animated  of  any  of 
Raphael's  productions.  Next,  the  Mira- 
|  de  of  Bolsena,  the  legend  of  an  incredulous 
priest  convinced  by  the  sight  of  the  bleed- 
ing wafer.  In  the  foreground  is  a  woman 
on  her  knees  :  this  is  the  first  appearance 
of  the  Fornarina  in  any  cf  Raphael's 


Iff  I 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


HOME. 


works.      St.  Leo  I.  preventing  A  ttila's  en-  '• 
trance  info  Rome,  and  the  Deliverance  of  St. 
Peter,  in  allusion  to  the  deliverance  of  Leo 
X..  who  was  inaile  prisoner  at  the  battle 
of  Ravenna. 

The  next  room  entered  is  the  Camera  del- 
la  Scgnatura,  or  School  of  A  (hens.  The  sub- 
jects illustrated  are  Theology,  Philosophy, 
Pot-try,  and  Jurisprudence.  The  allegor- 
ical figures  on  the  ceiling  represent  these 
different  subjects.  The  tirst  subject  is  the 
Dispute  on  the  Ho'y  Sacrament^.  Heaven 
and  earth  are  here  united.  God,  angels, 
the  saints,  and  doctors  of  the  Church  as- 
semble to  consecrate  the  institution  of  the 
Eucharist :  nearly  all  of  the  figures  are 
portraits.  In  the  background  may  be  seen 
Raphat-1  and  his  master  Perugino ;  on  the 
right  may  be  seen  Dante  crowned  with 
laurels.  Notice  on  the  same  side  Savona- 
rola in  a  black  cowl.  Raphael  had  to  ob- 
tain permission  from  Julius  II.  to  place 
Savonarola  in  the  composition,  he  having 
been  burned  as  a  heretic  by  Alexander  V I . 
Next  is  Poetry,  a  representation  of  Mount 
Parnassus,  Apollo  on  a  scat  surrounded 
by  the  Muses.  Hero  may  be  seen,  on  the 
right,  Homer,  Vir_il,  and  Dante,  Sappho 
addressing  Petrarch.  Ovid,  and  others. 
while  Pindar  and  Horace  are  in  earnest 
conversation.  Phikaopky,  or  the  School  of  ' 
Atltens,  one  of  Raphael's  finest  works. 
Here  is  a  representation  of  a  temple  of 
beautiful  architecture,  in  which  are  fifty-  | 
two  philosophers  of  ancient  times.  In  the 
centre,  on  a  flight  of  steps,  stand  Plato 
and  Aristotle  in  argument.  On  the  right 
notice  Archimedes  tracing  lines  on  the 
floor.  On  the  left  is  Pythagoras  writing 
on  his  knee ;  behind  him  is  a  line  figure  in 
a  -white  cloak:  this  is  Francesco  Maria 
della  Rovere,  duke  of  Urbino,  a  great 
friend  of  Raphael's.  Notice  on  the  steps 
the  half-naked  figure  of  Diogenes.  The 
figures  with  the  globes  are  Ptolemy  and 
Zoroaster,  who  are  holding  conversation 
with  Raphael  and  Perugino.  Jnritfj>ru- 
iliiit-c  is  represented  over  and  on  either 
side  of  the  window  by  the  allegorical  fig- 
ures of  Prudence,  Temperance,  and  Forti- 
tude. 

The-  next  and  last  room  is  the  Stan-n 
of  the  Jnct  nd'o  dil'  Jiory:>,  designed  by  Ra- 
phael, and  finished  by  his  pupils.  The 
ceiling  was  painted  by  Perugino.  The 
Pope  wished  it  repainted  by  Raphael,  but,  I 


out  of  affection  for  his  master,  he  refused 
to  efface  his  work.  The  principal  paint- 
ing in  this  room  is  the  destruction  of  that 
jHirtion  of  Rome  called  the  Burgus,  and  as 
the  fire  approached  the  Vatican  it  was  ar- 
rested by  the  Pope  by  his  making  the  sign 
of  the  cross.  The  other  paintings  are  the 
Justification  of  Leo  III.  before  Ckarlemagre, 
the  Coronation  of  C/tarlemagne  by  Leo  III., 
and  the  Victory  of  Leo  IV.  over  the  Sara- 
cens. 

The  Stanze,  the  same  as  the  Museum,  is 
open  to  the  public  on  Mondays  from  12  to 
3,  except  on  holidays  ;  at  other  times  a 
small  fee.  say  one  franc  for  a  party,  will 
gain  admittance. 

On  the  same  floor  with  the  Stanze  is  the 
Pinacolheca,  or  Picture-gallery,  which  con- 
tains but  very  few  pictures,  yet  they  are 
more  precious  than  any  in  the  world. 

Room  2<f:  Raphael — three  beautiful  lit- 
tle gems,  the  Annunciation,  the  Adoration 
of  the  Three  Kings,  and  the  Presentation 
in  the  Temple.  Murillo — Return  of  the 
Prodigal  Son  ;  Marriage  of  St.  Catharine 
of  Alexandria  with  the  infant  Christ. 
Raphael  — the  three  Theological  Virtues, 
Faith,  Hope,  Charity. 

The  third  room  contains  the  three 
great  gems  of  the  gallery,  vi/...  Raphael's 
Trait* figuration,  his  Madonna  da  t'oliyno, 
and  Domenichino's  Communion  of  St.  Je- 
rome. 

The  Transfiguration  was  the  last  and 
greate.-t  p  .ir.ting  of  the  immortal  master, 
painted  for  the  Cathedral  of  Narbonne  by 
order  of  Cardinal  Giulio  de'  Medici,  after- 
ward Clement  VII.  For  many  years  the 
picture  was  preserved  in  the  church  of  St. 
Pictro  in  Montorio,  from  which  the  French 
had  it  removed  to  Paris.  In  1815,  on  its 
return,  it  was  placed  in  the  Vatican.  The 
idea  throughout  the  piece  seems  to  express 
the  miseries  of  human  life,  and  lead  those 
who  are  afflicted  to  look  to  Heaven  for  com- 
fort and  relief.  The  upper  portion  of  the 
composition  represents  Mount  Tal:or;  on 
the  ground  the  three  apo.-tles  are  lyinir.  af- 
fected by  the  supernatural  light  which  pro- 
ceeds from  the  divinity  of  Christ,  who,  ac- 
companied by  Moses  and  Elijah,  is  floating 
in  the  air.  On  one  side  are  nine  apostles  ; 
a  multitude  of  people  on  the  other,  bring- 
ing to  them  a  demoniac  boy  whose  limbs 
are  dreadfully  convulsed,  which  produces 
on  every  countenance  an  expression  of  ter- 
861 


ROME. 


ror.  Two  of  the  apostles  point  toward 
heaven.  The  figures  on  the  Mount  of  the 
two  prophets  and  the  three  disciples  are 
magnificently  executed,  \vhils  the  figure 
of  the  Saviour  is  of  surpassing  loveliness. 
Before  Kaphael  had  finished  the  painting, 
he  was  himself  called  away  to  the  land  of 
the  blessed,  to  behold  in  reality  the  spirit- 
ual beings  which  inspiration  had  led  him  to 
portray  in  such  a  lovely  manner.  He  was 
but  37 ;  and  while  his  body  laid  in  state, 
his  last  work  was  suspended  over  the 
couch,  and  was  carried  before  him  at  his 
funeral  while  yet  the  last  traces  of  his 
master-hand  were  wet  upon  the  canvas. 

u  And  when  all  beheld 

Him  v.licro  lie  lay,  How  changed  from   yester- 
day— 

Him  in  that  hour  cut  off,  and  at  his  head 
ti'.a  last  great  work ;  when,  entering  in,  they 

look'd 

Now  on  the  dead,  then  on  that  masterpiece  : 
Now  on  his  face,  lifeless  and  colorless. 
Then  on  those   forms   divine  that   lived   and 

breathed, 

And  would  live  on  for  ages — all  wore  moved, 
And   sighs   burst   forth,  and  loudest  lamenta- 
tions." 

The  Madonna  da  Foliyno  is  also  very  cel- 
ebrated. It  was  painted  for  Sigismond 
Conti  in  1512.  It  made  the  journey  to 
Paris,  and  while  there  was  transferred  from 
the  wood  to  canvas. 

The  Communion  of  St.  Jerome,  by  Do- 
menichino,  the  acknowledged  masterpiece 
of  that  artist,  and  universally  considered, 
after  the  Transfiguration  of  Raphael,  the 
first  painting  in  the  world.  It  was  orig- 
inally painted  for  the  church  of  Ara  Coeli 
at  Rome,  but  the  monks  quarreled  with 
Domenichino,  and  paid  him  but  sixty  dol- 
lars, placing  the  picture  out  of  sight.  They 
afterward  commissioned  Poussin  to  paint 
them  a  picture,  and  gave  him  the  "  Com- 
munion" for  old  canvas;  but  he  not  only 
insisted  that  it  should  be  placed  above  the 
high -altar,  but  declared  to  the  world  that, 
it,  the  Transfiguration  of  Raphael,  ami  the 
Descent  from  the  Cross  of  Daniel  do  Yol- 
terrc,  were  the  three  chcfs-d'ocuvres  in 
pointing.  (The  Descent  from  the  Cross 
is  in  the  Santa  Trinita-  do  Monti.) 

Room  4th:  Titian  —  the  Madonna  and 
Child  surrounded  by  angels ;  underneath 
are  various  saints.  Raphael — Coronation 
of  the  Virgin;  one  of  his  earliest  works. 
Sassoferrato — the  Virgin  and  Child.  Room 
bth  r  Paolo  Veronese  —  St.  Helena,  the 
8G2 


[ITALY.]  ROME. 

mother  of  Constantino,  with  the  Vision  of 
the  Holy  Cross.  Gtiido  —  the  Madonna 
and  Child  in  Glory,  with  St.  Jerome  and 
St.  Thomas.  Correggio — Christ  sitting  on 
a  rainbow  surrounded  by  angels. 

The  Museum  and  Library  are  on  the 
first  floor  of  the  principal  building ;  the 
last  surrounds  the  Court  of  Bi-lvidere.  The 
entrance  is  near  the  extremity  of  the  Gal- 
lerie  Lapidaria.  It  may  be  visited  every- 
day, except  Monday,  on  paying  a  small  fee. 
It  comprises  upward  of  80,000  printed 
books  and  about  35,000  MSS.  It  is  very 
deficient  in  works  of  modern  literature,  but 
its  ecclesiastical  MSS.  far  exceeds  any  oth- 
er in  Europe.  Among  the  MSS.  is  the 
celebrated  Codex  Vaticanus,  or  Bible  of 
the  end  of  the  4th,  or  beginning  of  the  5th 
century,  in  Greek.  The  Cicero  de  Repub- 
lica,  considered  the  oldest  Latin  MS.  in  ex- 
istence. The  Menologia  Grscca.  or  Greek 
Calendar  of  the  10th  century.  The  Homi- 
|  lies  of  St.  Gregory  Nazianzen  of  the  year 
1063,  and  the  four  Gospels  of  the  year  1128. 
Large  Hebrew  Bible  from  the  library  of 
the  Duke  of  Urbino,  for  which  an  offer  of 
its  weight  in  gold  was  made  by  the  Jews 
of  Venice.  A  Greek  version  of  the  Acts 
of  the  Apostles,  written  in  gold,  and  pre- 
sented by  Charlotte,  queen  of  Cyprus,  to 
Innocent  VIII.  The  Commentaries  on  the 
New  Testament.  The  Breviary  of  Mat- 
thias Corvinus.  The  parchment  scroll  of 
a  Greek  MS.  of  the  8th  century,  fi2  feet 
long,  with  miniatures  of  the  history  of 
Joshua.  Dedication  copy  of  the  Assertio 
septem  Sacramentorum  adversus  Marti- 
num  Lutherum,  by  Henry  VIII.  Letters 
from  Henry  VIII.  to  Anna  Boleyn.  17  in 
number,  of  which  8  are  in  English  and  9 
in  French. 

In  the  library  are  some  magnificent 
vases  of  malachite,  presented  by  the  Em- 
peror of  Russia,  and  a  fine  one  of  Oriental 
alabaster,  made  in  Rome  from  a  block  pre- 
r-ented  by  the  Pasha  of  Egypt.  A  beauti- 
ful basin  in  Aberdeen  granite,  presented  by 
the  Duke  of  Northumberland  to  Cardinal 
Antonelli,  and  presented  by  him  to  the  li- 
brary. A  large  vase  presented  by  the 
late  Emperor  of  the  French  to  Pius  IX. 
on  the  occasion  of  the  baptism  of  the  heir 
to  the  imperial  throne:  it  is  of  Sevres 
porcelain, covered  with  Christian  emblems. 

The  Miiseo  Cfiitirinnnnti  was  founded  by 
Pius  VII.,  whose  family  runic  it  bears.  It 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


•was  arranged  by  Canova,  and  includes  700 
examples. 

We  first  enter  the  Corridors  of  Inscrip- 
ti'int,  I'.'il  yards  in  length,  occupied  by  an- 
cient sepulchral  monuments  and  inscrip- 
tions, rearranged  l>y  Pius  VII.  On  the 
right  are  the  Pagan  inscriptions,  and  on 
the  left  those  of  parly  Christ!. in  days.  The 
collection  consists  of  3000  specimens  ;  they 
are  frequently  V.TV  touching.  Each  in- 
scription is  accompanied  by  a  symbolical 
representation. 

Mtiseo  Chiaramonti,  arranged  by  Canova, 
contains  a  very  large  number  of  specimens 
of  ancient  sculpture:  a  sarcophagus  of  C. 
.'.  Kvhodus,  and  of  his  wife  Metilia  Acte, 
priestess  of  Cybole,  found  at  <  >stia  ;  sitting 
statue  of  Tiberius ;  bust  of  the  young  Au- 
gustus, found  at  Ostia  by  Mr.  Fagan,  the 
British  consul,  in  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century,  representing  the  emperor 
at  the  age  of  14  (most  beautifully  exe- 
cuted, and  so  attractive  that  the  celebrated 
modern  sculptors  dwell  with  the  greatest 
admiration  upon  its  remarkable  beauty); 
sitting  statue  of  Tiberius,  found  at  Piperno 
• — remarkable  of  its  kind;  Sabina,  wife  of 
Hadrian,  as  Venus,  familiar  from  the  de- 
scription of  Visconti ;  a  graceful  statue  of 
Mercury,  found  near  the  Monte  di  Piet;\ ; 
a  bas-relief  representing  Bacchus  riding 
on  a  Tiger;  the  Virgin  Tutia,  whose  chas- 
tity was  proved  by  her  carrying  water 
from  the  Tiber  to  the  Temple  of  Vesta  in 
a  sieve. 

The  Braccio  JVworo. —  This  part  of  the 
Museum  was  commenced  by  Pius  VII.  in 
1817.  The  hall  is  261  feet  long,  and  is 
well  lighted  from  the  roof. 

Xt/ttucs  and  BmU.  —  Silcnus  nursing  the 
infant  Bacchus  ;  bust  of  Claudius ;  statue 
of  Titus ;  statue  of  a  Faun  playing  on  a 
Flute;  bust  of  Trajan  ;  statue  of  Diana  be- 
holding with  terror  the  dead  Endymion ; 
statue  of  Demosthenes,  found  near  the  vil- 
la Aldobrandini  :  Athlete,  found  in  the 
Vieolo  delle  Polina,  in  the  Trastevere.  in 
1*1!'.  near  where  the  Bronze  Horse  in  the 
Capitoline  Museum  was  discovered;  bust 
of  the  young  Marcus  Aurelins  ;  the  Emper- 
or Gordian  the  Elder;  statue  of  the  Fight- 
ing Amazon;  statue  of  Diana,  found  at 
the  Villa  Adriana,  bust  of  Lucius  Anto- 
nius,  brother  of  Marc  Antony  ;  the  Venus 
Anadyomene  ;  a  beautiful  and  finely  pre- 
served statue,  found  at  Ostia,  of  Fortune, 


wearing  a  veil  over  the  back  of  the  head 
as  an  indication  of  her  mysterious  origin  ; 
the  Minerva  Medica,  of  Parian  marble,  one 
of  the  finest  statues  in  Home,  beautifully 
draped.  One  of  the  grandest  figures  in  the 
Vatican  is  the  colossal  group  of  the  Nile  ; 
antique  copy  of  the  Faun  of  Praxiteles, 
which  furnished  the  suggestion  for  Haw- 
thorne's exquisite  story ;  splendid  statue 
of  Mercury,  recognized  by  Canova  in  the 
garden  of  the  Quirinal,  where  it  formerly 
stood,  and  by  him  removed  to  the  Vatican. 

Museo  Pio  Clementina  derives  its  name 
from  Pius  VI.  and  Clement  XIV.,  the  most 
magnificent  museum  of  ancient  sculpture 
in  the  world.  The  Torso  Belvidere,  sculp- 
tured by  Apollonius,  has  commanded  the 
admiration  of  the  most  renowned  sculptors 
of  modern  times.  The  sarcophagus  of  L. 
Scipio  Barbatus,  a  celebrated  relic  of  re- 
publican IJoma:  the  Latin  inscription  is  de- 
cidedly the  most  ancient  which  has  been 
handed  down  to  us.  2000  years  after  the 
deatli  of  Scipio  Barbatus  the  sarcoph- 
agus was  opened  and  the  skeleton  found 
perfect,  with  u  ring  on  one  of  the  fingers : 
the  ring  was  taken  to  England,  where  it 
was  preserved  in  the  collection  of  the  Earl 
of  Beverley.  The  bones  were  removed  to 
Padua  in  1781. 

Rotunda  or  Circular  Hall. — In  the  cen- 
tre is  a  grand  basin  in  porphyry,  40  feet  in 
circumference,  found  in  the  Baths  of  Dio- 
cletian ;  statue  of  Xerva  ;  statue  of  a  fe- 
male draped  and  restored  as  Ceres ;  Clau- 
dius crowned  with  oak-leaves.  A  most 
beautiful  vi  w  miy  be  had  of  Pome  from 
this  part  of  the  Vatican,  which  generally 
goes  by  the  name  of  Belvidere. 

Xext  we  enter  the  Chamber  of  '^feleayer, 
so  called  from  the  celebrated  statue  of  Mc- 
leager  with  the  boar's  head  and  dog. 

Next  we  enter  the  Court  <if  Bihkltre. 
This  court,  built  in  an  octagon  form  by 
Bramnvinte,  is  surrounded  by  a  portico 
supported  by  1C  granite  columns.  In  the 
four  cabinets  are  the  four  chefs-d'oeuvre  of 
the  Vatican.  The  first  cabinet  cont  lins  the 
l'<-rti'itt,  and  the  Creuga-*  and  Daiimxeiius 
by  Cnnova  ;  the  second,  the  Ijt-.'ritl  n>  An- 
tin'iii.t;  the  third  the  Laocoon,  which  Pliny 
says  "is  a  work  exceeding  all  that  the  arts 
of  painting  and  sculpture  have  ever  pro- 
duced." 

''Or,  turnii  g  tn  the  Vatican,  go  Fee 
Jjnocoon's  torture  dignify!'  ^  p;iin — 
803 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


A  father's  love  and  mortal's  agony 
With  an  immortal's  patience  blending :  vain 
The  struggle";  vain  against  the  coiling  strain, 
And  gripe,  and  deepening   of  the    dragon's 

grasp, 
The  old  man's  clench;  the  long  envenomed 

chain 

Rivets  the  living  links — the  enormous  asp 
Enforces  pang  on  pang,  and  stifles  gasp  on  gasp." 

At  the  time  of  its  discovery,  the  excite- 
ment produced  l>y  the  event  was  described 
in  a  curious  letter  written  by  Caesar  Tri- 
vulzio  to  his  brother  Pomponio,  July  1st, 
1506.  Michael  Angelo  was  then  in  Rome, 
and  pronounced  it  the  wonder  of  art.  Ac- 
cording to  a  vote  of  the  Senate,  the  whole 
group  was  carved  out  of  a  single  block  by 
Agesander,  Polydorus,  and  Athenagoras, 
sculptors  of  the  highest  class,  and  natives 
of  Rhodes. 

The  fourth  cabinet  contains  the  Apollo 
Belvidere,  found  at  Antium  at  the  end  of 
the  loth  century. 

"  Or  view  the  lord  of  the  unerring  bow, 
The  god  of  life,  and  poesy,  and  light — 

The  sun  in  human  limbs  array'd,  and  brow 
All  radiant  from  his  triump'i  in  the  light : 

The  shaft  hath  just  been  snot  —  the  arrow 

bright, 
With  an  immortal's  vengeance;  in  hia  eye 

And  nostril  beautiful  disdain,  and  might 
And  majesty  flash  their  full  lightnings  by, 
Developing  in  that  one  glance  the  Deity." 

Before  entering  into  the  Hall  of  Animals 
notice  the  two  splendid  sarcophagi  from 
the  Baths  of  Caracalla.  The  Hall  of  A  ni- 
mals  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a  vesti- 
bule which  leads  from  the  octagonal  court 
to  the  Hall  of  the  Muses.  It  is  paved  in 
antique  mosaics.  Both  rooms  contain  many 
exquisite  gems. 

Gallery  of  Statues. — Half  figure  in  Pa- 
rian marble,  supposed  to  be  the  Cupid  of 
Praxiteles,  called  the  Genius  of  the  Vati- 
can. The  Amazon  is  one  of  the  finest 
statues  in  the  collection.  The  celebrated 
statue  of  Ariadne,  formerly  called  Cleo- 
patra, from  the  resemblance  which  the 
bracelet  bears  to  a  serpent ;  a  statue  of 
Lucius  Verus.  In  the  centre  of  the  hall 
is  a  large  bust,  discovered  near  the  church 
of  Santi  Apostoli  at  Rome,  composed  of 
beautiful  Oriental  alabaster.  Hull  <>f  the 
Busts,  Cabinet  of  the  Masks,  and  Hatt  of  the 
Muses,  will  all  be  found  to  contain  many 
interesting  works. 

Hall  of  the  Greek  Cross,  with  beautiful 
modern  doorways  ornamented  by  colossal 
Egyptian  statues  found  in  Hadrian's  villa. 
864 


The  principal  objects  of  attraction  in  this 
hall  are  the  two  sarcophagi  of  immense 
size — in  fact,  the  largest  ever  made  of  red 
Egyptian  porphyry.  One  of  them  is  the 
sarcophagus  of  Constantia,  daughter  of 
Constantino,  who  died  A.D.  354 ;  the  other 
is  of  the  Empress  Helena. 

Hall  of  the  Biff  a,  deriving  its  name  from 
the  ancient  chariot  on  two  wheels,  in  white 
marble,  which  stands  in  the  centre  of  it ; 
statue  of  Alcibiades,  with  lii.s  foot  resting 
on  a  helmet ;  bearded  Bacchus,  or  Sarda- 
napalus ;  the  Discobolus  of  Myron,  found 
at  the  Villa  Adriana. 

The  Etruscan  Museum,  open  every  day, 
except  Monday,  from  10  till  2,  by  apply- 
ing to  the  custodc  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Museo  Chiaramonti.  The  Egyptian  Mu- 
seum will  also  be  found  very  interesting. 

The  LATEHAN  MUSEUM  is  opened  by  a 
fee  to  each  of  the  two  custodes.  It  con- 
tains an  antique  and  a  Christian  gallery, 
and  a  few  pictures,  with  a  series  of  terra- 
cotta busts  of  North  American  Indians  by 
a  German  artist,  who  modeled  them  from 
life. 

The  QCIRINAL  PALACE  may  be  seen  by 
order,  to  be  obtained  from  the  consul.  It 
contains  in  the  apartments  some  fine  pic- 
tures. 

PRIVATE   PALACES. 

There  are  no  less  than  75  of  these  palaces, 
which  constitute  one  of  the  characteristic 
features  of  Rome,  and  of  which  an  attempt 
at  description  would  be  unsatisfactory. 

Palazzo  Borghe.se. — The  gallery  of  this 
palace,  containing  over  800  paintings,  and 
some  of  them  the  richest  in  Rome,  is  open 
every  Monday,  Wednesdaj%  and  Friday, 
from  9  until  3.  It  is  situated  in  the 
piazza  of  the  Fame  name.  The  paint- 
ings are  arranged  in  12  different  rooms,  in 
each  of  which  are  catalogues  for  the  use 
of  visitors. 

Raphael — the  Entombment  of  Christ, 
painted  in  the  artist's  24th  year ;  Caesar 
Borgia;  portrait  of  Raphael  himself  in  his 
youth;  Julius  II.  Leonardo  da  Vinci — the 
Saviour.  Titian— Sacred  and  Profane  Love ; 
the  Three  Graces ;  Samson  ;  Holy  Family 
with  St.  John.  Paul  Veronese — St.  An- 
tony preaching  to  the  Fishes ;  St.  John 
preaching  in  the  Desert.  Domenichino — 
Chase  of  Diana;  the  Cumaean  Sibyl.  An- 
drea del  Sarto — Holy  Family  ;  Venus  and 


KOMI;. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


Cupid ;  the  Magdalen.     Magnificent  works  ' 
of  many  other  celebrated  artists  are  here 
displayed.      Catalogues  are   provided  for 
the  use  of  visitors,  consequently  it  is  use-  i 
less  to  give  a  list  of  the  different  works. 

Palazzo  Colonna,  at  one  time  the  resi- 
dence of  Julius  II.,  and  aftcrwaul  of  San  j 
Carlo  when  Cardinal  Borromeo.  A  por- 
tion of  the  state  apartments  now  form  the 
residence  of  the  French  erabassador.  The 
picture-gallery,  at  one  time  the  most  cel- 
ebrated in  Koine,  still  contains  some  fine 
works,  and  is  open  every  day  except  holi- 
days. 

Palazzo  Corsini,  in  the  17th  century  the 
residence  of  Christine,  queen  of  Sweden, 
who  died  in  it  in  the  year  1689.  A  noble 
double  staircase  leads  to  the  gallery,  which 
is  open  every  day  except  Sunday  from  11 
to  3.  The  Corsini  Library,  open  every 
day,  except  on  festivals,  for  three  hours 
each  day.  There  are  60,000  printed  books 
and  1300  MSS.  The  principal  portion  of 
this  palace  is  occupied  by  the  French  em- 
bassador.  There  is  a  beautiful  garden  at- 
tached which  contains  numerous  antiq- 
uities. 

Palazzo  Doria-Pamfti,  in  the  Corso,  is 
the  most  magnificent  of  all  the  Roman 
palaces  ;  rich  in  works  of  art.  Gallery 
open  on  Tuesday  and  Friday  from  10  to  2 ; 
fee  £  fr. ;  it  contains  about  800  pictures. 
Catalogues  are  printed  for  visitors.  Ra- 
phael-—  portraits  of  Baldo  and  Bartolo. 
Titian — Sacrifice  of  Isaac  ;  portrait  of  Ti- 
tian's wife.  Leonardo  da  Vinci — a  lovely 
portrait  of  Joanna  II.  of  Aragon,  queen  of 
Naples.  Claude  —  Mercury  stealing  the 
Cattle  of  Apollo  ;  the  celebrated  Molivo  ; 
Flight  into  Egypt.  Guercino — the  Prodi- 
gal Son  ;  Endymion  ;  St.  Agnes.  Annibal 
Caracci  —  the  Assumption  ;  Flight  into 
Egypt  ;  the  Nativity  ;  Adoration  of  the 
Magi,  and  the  Entombment  of  our  Saviour. 
These  paintings  are  among  the  finest  of 
the  collection,  although  there  are  many 
others  by  the  first  artists.  The  Sciarra 
Gallery  is  shown  no  more. 

I'alnzzo  Farnese. — Friday,  from  12  to  2. 
The  architecture  of  this  palace  is  by  far 
the  finest  in  Rome.  It  is  the  property  of 
the  ex-King  of  Naples,  by  whose  family  it 
was  inherited  as  the  descendants  of  Eliz- 
abeth Farnese.  This  palace  contains  the 
frescoes  of  An.  Caracci,  his  finest  work, 
which  occupied  his  own  time  and  that  of  his 


pupils  for  eight  years.  They  are  in  a  room 
on  the  first  floor. 

Pa'azzo  Farnesina,  formerly  the  proper- 
ty of  the  King  of  Naples.  It  acquired 
great  celebrity  during  the  reign  of  Leo  X. 
as  the  residence  of  Agostino  Chigi.  He 
gave  an  entertainment  here  in  1518  to  Leo 
X.,  the  cardinals  and  embassadors,  which 
was  the  most  costly  banquet  of  the  times  ; 
some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  expense 
when  it  is  related  that  three  fish  which 
were  served  up  amounted  to  250  crowns. 

Of  the  numerous  other  palaces,  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  is  the  Palazzo  Barbe- 
rini.  It  is  extensive,  has  a  magnificent 
staircase,  one  of  the  finest  in  Rome ;  also 
an  interesting  library,  celebrated  for  its 
MSS.,  which  amount  to  7000,  collected 
principally  by  Cardinal  Francesco  Barbe- 
rini,  nephew  of  Urban  VIII.  It  is  open 
daily,  except  Sunday  and  Thursday,  from 
2  to  5.  Librarj-  on  Thursday,  from  9  to  2. 
Contains  among  its  most  interesting  works 
letters  and  papers  of  Galileo,  Cardinal  Bel- 
larmine,  Benedetto  Castelli,  Bembo,  Delia 
Casa,  and  the  official  reports  on  the  state 
of  Catholicism  in  England  during  the  reign 
of  Charles  I.,  addressed  to  Urban  VIII. ; 
copy  of  the  Bible  in  a  Samaritan  charac- 
ter; several  MSS. of  Dante;  a  Greek  MS. 
of  the  Liturgies  of  St.  Basil  of  the  7th  or 
8th  century.  There  are  50,000  printed 
books,  containing  autograph  notes  of  cele- 
brated personages.  Among  the  pictures 
is  the  famous  portrait  of  Beatrice  Cenri. 

J'alczz!)  Xpiulit  (picture-gallery  and  an- 
tiquities, Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Sat- 
urday from  10  to  3)  is  also  celebrated, 
possessing  as  it  docs  the  statue  of  Pompey, 
which  is  its  chief  treasure.  This  figure, 
11  feet  high,  composed  of  Greek  marble, 
has  been  regarded  for  about  2000  j-ears  as 
the  identical  statue  which  stood  in  the 
Curia  of  Pompey,  at  whose  base  "  great 
Ctcsar  fell." 

"  And  thou,  dread  statue  !  yet  existent  in 
The  HiistiTcat  form  of  naked  majesty — 
Thmi  wlio  behelde.-t,  'mid  the  assassins'  din, 
At  tliv  bathed  tia-o  the  foluody  <  'a?->;ir  lie: 
Folding  his  robe  in  dyintr  diirnity, 
An  offering  to  thine  almr  from  the  queen 
of  iTi'ds  :u  .1  men.  ;;ivat  Nemesis  I  did  he  die, 
And  thou  too  perish.  Pompoy  ?   have  ye  boen 

Victors   of  countless    kings,    or    jmppeis    of  a 
scene  5" 

The  statue  was  found  in  1550,  the  body  on 
one  person's  property  and  the  legs  on  an- 
665 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


other's.  It  was  bought  by  the  pope,  Jul- 
ias III.,  and  presented  to  Cardinal  Capodi- 
ferro. 

Palazzo  Rospigliosi. — This  palace  was  for 
many  years  the  residence  of  the  French 
embassadors ;  it  then  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  Rospigliosi  family.  It  was  origi- 
nally erected  by  Cardinal  Scipio  Borghese 
on  the  site  of  the  Thermae  of  Constantine. 
On  the  ceiling  of  one  of  the  galleries  be- 
longing to  this  palace  is  the  celebrated 
fresco  of  Guido,  considered  his  master- 
piece, and  alluded  to  by  Byron  in  his  Don 
Juan,  in  which  he  says 

"Alone 
Is  worth  a  tour  to  Rome." 

The  chief  ambition  of  Gnido  was  to 
express  his  feelings  in  his  paintings ;  to 
"hold  the  mirror  up  to  nature"  in  truth, 
it  would  seem;  for,  when  composing  his 
"Crucifixion,"  now  at  Bologna,  so  anxious 
was  he  to  transfer  to  canvas  the  unmis- 
takable expression  of  dying  agony,  that 
in  a  frenzied  moment  he  seized  a  knife 
and  plunged  it  into  the  heart  of  a  helpless 
victim  who  was  bound  to  a  cross  to  rep- 
resent the  dying  Saviour.  Guido  was  fur- 
nished with  the  agonizing  expression  that 
he  so  much  wished  for,  completed  his  pict- 
ure, and  fled  the  same  night,  when  con- 
sciousness was  restored,  and  he  discovered 
that  he  had  really  murdered  a  fellow-be- 
ing. In  about  three  days  after  this  occur- 
rence he  was  missed,  and  his  studio  was 
broken  open  ;  the  corpse  was  found  in  a 
state  of  decomposition,  still  bound  to  the 
cross ;  there,  too,  was  the  painting,  testify- 
ing most  truthfully  to  the  sickening  crime. 
After  years  of  exile  Guido  was  allowed  to 
return  to  Rome  and  resume  his  art,  for  the 
loss  of  myriads  of  models  could  be  better 
endured  than  the  talents  of  such  an  artist, 
"  of  whose  death  Canova  said  that  heaven 
gained  at  the  expense  of  earth."  This  gal- 
lery is  open  Wednesday  and  Saturday, 
from  9  to  4. 

The  Musfo  Kircheriano,  situated  in  the 
College  Romano  (ladies  not  admitted).  The 
collection  of  antiquities  is  only  interesting 
to  an  archaeologist.  There  is  an  observa- 
tory here  of  considerable  notoriety.  When 
the  sun  attains  the  meridian,  a  signal  is 
given  here  daily  to  the  castle  of  St.  Angelo, 
which  fires  a  cannon. 

The  gallery  of  the  ACADEMY  OF  ST. 

LUKE  is  one  of  the  best  collections,  though 

8G6 


small,  and  contains  a  most  interesting  land, 
scape  by  Titian  ;  also  one  of  Claude's  chefi 
d'oeuvres,  a  Seaport 

Mnnu  factory  of  Mosaics. — Visitors  can 
be  admitted  daily  by  an  order,  which  can 
be  procured  through  their  bankers.  F.v- 
ery  one  who  has  been  interested  in  the  mo- 
saics of  St.  Peter's  would  probably  be 
pleased  in  witnessing  the  manufacturing 
of  them  before  leaving  the  Vatican.  'I  he 
number  of  enamels  of  different  colors  em- 
ployed in  these  works  amounts  to  10,000. 

The  Gardens  of  the  Vatican  are  open 
daily,  and  will  be  found  quite  interesting. 
The  American  Legation  is  No.  472  Corso. 

The  manufactures  of  Rome  are  by  no 
means  extensive;  quite  a  number  of  hands 
are  employed  in  manufacturing  mosaics 
and  jewelry  of  various  kinds.  There  are 
many  Charitable  Institutions,  all  of  which 
seem  to  be  well  patronized. 


Rome  has  numerous  villa?!,  both  within 
and  without  its  walls,  built  chietiy  by 
wealthy  cardinals,  who  have  spared  no  ex- 
pen.-e  in  adorning  them  in  the  most  mag- 
niiiccnt  style. 

Among  those  most  worth}'  of  particular 
notice  is  the  Villa  Albani,  built  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  last  century  by  Cardinal  Ales- 
sandro  Albani,  from  a  design  of  his  own. 
It  is  rich  in  works  of  art,  possessing  the 
third  best  collection  next  to  the  Botanical 
Museum  and  the  Capitol.  It  has  charm- 
ing grounds,  laid  out  with  perfect  taste. 
The  most  important  specimens  of  art  are 
to  be  found  in  the  Casino  and  Coffee- 
house. Among  the  statues  remarkable 
are  those  of  Julius  Caesar,  Agrippina,  Au- 
gustus, and  Faustina.  Busts  of  Alexander 
the  Great,  Scipio  Africanus,  Hannibal,  Ho- 
mer, and  Epicurus.  Bas-reliefs  of  Antoni- 
us  crowned  with  the  lotus-flower,  Diogenes 
in  a  large  jar  receiving  Alexander.  The 
bronze  Apollo  Sanrocthonos,  supposed  to 
be  the  original  by  Praxiteles.  Visitors 
are  admitted  into  the  villa  on  Tuesdays, 
except  in  wet  weather,  from  11  till  dusk. 

Villa  Borffhese.—Open  to  the  public  ev- 
ery day  at  12  o'clock  except  Monday,  and 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


the  Casino  on  Saturday  after  3  P.M.  during 
the  summer  months,  and  from  1  until  4 
o'clock  in  winter.  This  is  cue  of  the  fa- 
vorite resorts  of  the  Roman  citizens  iu 
summer ;  the  gardens  are  laid  out  with 
great  taste.  The  Casino,  formerly  used  a.s 
a  summer  residence,  has  now  been  con- 
verted into  a  museum  of  statuary.  The 
statue  of  the  Princess  Paulina  Borghese, 
sister  of  the  first  Napoleon,  l>y  Cauova,  who 
has  represented  her  as  the  Venus  Victrix, 
is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  in  the  collec- 
tion. On  each  floor  catalogues  may  be  ob- 
tained by  applying  to  the  custodian.  In  the 
upper  portion  of  the  grounds  was  situated 
the  Villa  01_:iata,  or  Casino  Raphael,  dec- 
orated in  frescoes,  medallions,  and  ara- 
besques, with  all  the  delicate  fancy  and 
beauty  of  design  at  all  times  displayed  by 
this  artist.  In  another  portion  of  the  park 
is  the  fac-simile  of  a  small  Roman  temple 
dedicated  to  Faustina. 

Villa  Lwlovisi  contains  a  collection  of 
ancient  sculpture.  It  is  at  present  occu- 
pied by  the  Countess  Mirafiore,  the  wife 
of  the  king,  and  is  only  shown  in  her 
absence.  The  grounds  are  extensive,  and 
laid  out  most  tastefully  with  fine  drives 
and  beautiful  shrubber}' —  box,  evergreen 
oaks,  and  cypress  are  in  great  perfec- 
tion, and  near  the  entrance  are  specimens 
of  the  Platanus  Orientalis,  about  the 
largest  of  the  species  now  existing.  The 
villa  was  built  by  the  nephew  of  Pope 
Gregory  XV.  The  Casino,  on  the  left, 
was  built  from  designs  of  Domenichino, 
and  contains  some  line  antique  statues: 
the  principal  one  is  that  of  Mars.  The 
Aurora  of  Guercino  and  the  frescoes  of 
Domenichino  are  the  principal  attractions. 
PamjiH-Itoria — one  of  the  most  ex- 
tensive of  the  Roman  villas,  the  grounds 
exceeding  four  miles  in  circuit;  they  are 
thrown  open  at  all  hours  and  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year ;  they  are  laid  out  in  gardens, 
avenues,  and  terraces,  planted  with  the 
lofty  pines  which  grow  so  luxuriantly  in 
every  part  of  Rome,  and  which  add  great- 
ly to  the  beauty  of  this  spot.  In  these* 
grounds,  in  1849,  Garibaldi,  with  the  Re- 
publican troops,  maintained  his  position 
against  the.  whole  force  of  the  French 
army.  Xear  the  villa  has  been  erected  a 
church,  decorated  with  Corinthian  col- 
umns, for  the  use  of  the  family :  here  also 
has  lately  been  raised^by  Prince  Deri*,  at 


the  extreme  end  of  one  of  the  avenues  of 
evergreen  oaks,  a  handsome  monument  to 
the  French  who  fell  in  the  struggle  around 
the  villa.  A  great  deal  of  taste  has  been 
di.-played  in  the  selection  of  it.  Monday 
and  Friday,  after  one  o'clock.  Two-horse 
carriages  only  admitted. 

Vila  PalatitM  was  built  on  the  ruins 
of  the  house  of  Augustus.  In  the  portico 
are  several  frescoes  by  Raphael,  represent- 
ing Venus  and  the  Nymphs.  In  the  gar- 
den may  be  seen  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
wrestling-place.  They  are  finely  laid  out. 

Villa  Wolkonsky,  shown  from  2  to  4  on 
Wednesday  and  Saturday.  Permits  ob- 
tained from  your  banker.  The  other  villas 
are  of  less  importance,  but  still  quite  beau- 
tiful. 

EXCURSIONS  ix  THE  Exviuoxs  OF  ROME. 

The  objects  of  interest  outside  the  walls 
may  be  seen  en  route  for  the  various  ex- 
cursions we  should  advise  the  traveler  to 
take. 

The  VIA  APPIA,  which  leads  to  A/bano, 
Ariccin,  etc.,  is  lined  with  objects  of  inter- 
est. The  TOMB  OF  SCIPIO,  the  COLUM- 
BARIA, the  ARCH  OF  DRCSUS,  we  have 
mentioned,  and  all  lie  within  the  walls. 
Outside  are  numerous  tombs,  of  which 
nothing  certain  is  known,  with  masses  of 
imperial  ruins,  which  only  interest  from 
their  being  mementoes  of  the  day  of  Rome's 
greatness  and  pride.  This  church  of  Dom- 
ine  quo  Vailis,  standing  on  the  spot  where 
( 'hrist  is  traditionally  said  to  have  met  Pe- 
ter and  Paul  fleeing  from  Rome,  contains 
the  copy  of  his  footprints  in  stone.  The 
church  of  St.  Si-bastion,  farther  on,  con- 
tains the  veritable  footprints,  and  marks  the 
site  of  the  Catacombs  of  that  saint,  which 
are  interred  here.  As  we  approach  tho 
first  considerable  elevation  on  the  Via  Ap- 
pia,  we  find  at  the  foot  of  it  the  ruins  of 
the  Circus  built  by  MaxeiUius  in  honor  of 
his  ."on  Ro.Mri.rs.  They  arc  .extensive, 
and  show  the  character  of  those  structures 
better  than  any  other  one.  On  the  brow 
of  the  hill  is  the  tomL  of  CKCII.IA  MKTF.L- 
LA,  the  best  prcMTved  of  all  the  sepulchral 
monuments  of  any  importance.  The  bat 
tlements  on  it  aiv  .Middle  Age  additions, 
and,  like  the  walls  inclosing  it  and  the 
ground  beyond  it.  were  added  for  the  pur- 
pose of  defense  by  the  C attain?.  From  this 
point  nearly  all  the  way  to  Albanc  are  ru- 
867 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


ins  of  tombs,  of  which  some  are  of  immense 
size  ;  but,  excepting  one,  on  which  is  built 
a  farm-house,  and  an  olive  orchard  is  plant- 
ed, all  are  in  a  most  ruinous  state,  for  the 
large  stones  have  been  takeii  away  for 
building  purposes.  Some  interesting  in- 
scriptions have  been  dug  up,  among  which 
is  one  of  the  family  of  Pompey.  They  are 
secured  in  masonry,  and  will  repay  the 
reader  of  Roman  history  for  the  two  or 
three  hours'  stroll  necessary  to  see  them. 

ALBANO  is  a  charming  town  on  the  side 
of  the  Alban  Hills,  and  overlooking  the 
lake  of  the  same  name.  Railway  in  one 
hour  ;  fare,  3  fr.  20  c.  One  may  spend  the 
night  there,  or  find  horses  for  the  ride  to 
Ariccia,  Nemi,  up  to  Mt.  Ctivo,  and  thence 
over  to  Frascati,  passing  the  site  of  the  an- 
cient Tusculum.  From  Frascati  we  may 
return  by  railway,  or  the  carriages  may  be 
ordered  over  from  Albano,  and  we  may  re- 
turn by  the  road  passing  through  Grotta 
Ferrata,  a  town  celebrated  for  its  annual 
fair,  which  is  held  early  in  April ;  then 
by  the  extensive  and  picturesque  ruins  of 
the  VILLA  of  the  QUINTILLII,  and  along 
the  line  of  the  aqueducts,  under  which  we 
pass,  by  the  Porta  Fwba,  to  enter  the  city 
by  the  Porta  S.  Giovanni. 

Going  out  of  the  Porta  S.  Giovanni,  and 
taking  the  right-hand  road  where  the  roads 
divide  half  a  mile  outside  the  walls,  we 
have  a  most  interesting  drive,  visiting  the 
painted  tombs  on  the  Via  Latina,  and  about 
three  miles  out  we  come  to  the  noble  line 
of  CLAUDIAN  AQUEDUCTS,  so  called,  al- 
though the  line  of  arches  carried  three 
aqueducts  —  the  MAKCIAN,  B.C.  145,  the 
CLAUDIAN,  and  ANIO  Novus,  about  A.D. 
50.  The  arches  now  standing  are  proba- 
bly of  the  earlier  date,  but  much  repaired, 
and  in  later  times  in  large  part  incased  in 
brick,  of  which  some  of  the  casings  remain 
still.  Nearly  opposite  the  farther  end  of 
the  line  of  arches  we  come  to  a  smaller  line 
of  brick  arches,  -which  were  probably  for 
the  supplying  some  villa  of  the  imperial 
times  with  water.  At  a  point  a  little  near- 
er the  city  than  this  last  line  is  a  road 
which  leads  back  to  the  city  at  the  right, 
and  which  will  take  us  past  the  interest- 
ing remains  of  the  ancient  TEMPLE  and 
SACRED  GROVE  OF  BACCHUS,  erroneous- 
ly called  the  grove  and  temple  of  Egeria. 
This  temple,  like  all  others,  is  turned  into 
a.  church.  We  pass  the  Circus  of  Maxen- 
868 


tius  on  the  left,  and  enter  the  city  by  the 
Sebastian  gate. 

Another  pleasant  ride  is  over  the  left- 
hand  road  out  of  the  Porta  Maggiore,  the 
ancient  Via  Prenestina,  and  still  in  travel- 
ing state  to  Pa'ettrina,  the  ancient  Prse- 
neste;  distance  22  miles  from  Rome.  Take 
the  railway  to  Frascati ;  thence  by  carriage 
(12  miles).  (The  modern  road  to  PALES- 
TRINA  is  by  the  right-hand  fork,  the  Via 
Labicana  going  to  the  ancient  LABICUM, 
now  Colonna.)  Two  miles  out  of  the  gate 
we  come  to  a  rising  land,  over  which  the 
road  passes,  and  from  which  may  be  had  the 
most  satisfactory  view  of  the  Campagna, 
looking  toward  Mts.  Gennaro  and  Tivoli. 
The  ruins  at  the  left,  just  beyond  this,  are 
the  remains  of  a  Gordian  villa  known  as 
the  TORRI  DI  SCHIAVI.  A  little  farther 
on,  a  road  branching  to  the  left  leads  to 
Lunghezza,  a  charming  valley  on  the  An  io. 
The  excursion  to  Tivoli  is  one  of  the  most 
delightful  of  those  to  be  made  from  Rome. 
The  distance  is  16  miles ;  carriages,  35  and 
40  fr.  Make  it  perfectly  understood  with 
the  driver  that  Hadrian's  Villa  be  visited 
en  route.  One  should  start  early  in  the 
morning  to  make  this  excursion.  Visitors 
generally  bring  their  lunch  with  them, and 
partake  of  it  in  the  temple  in  view  of  the 
falls.  The  Via  Tiburtina,  going  through  the 
Porta  S.  Lorenzo,  crosses  the  Anio  by  the 
Ponte  Mammolo,  a  Roman  bridge,  of  which 
the  principal  arch  was  blown  up  by  the 
French  in  1849,  to  prevent  the  bringing  in 
of  powder  from  Tivoli  during  the  siege. 
About  ten  miles  out  we  leave  at  our  left 
an  extensive  Middle  Age  ruin,  formerly 
a  fortress  for  brigands.  As  we  approach 
Tivoli  we  pass  through  a  volcanic  region, 
the  air  of  which  is  filled  with  the  exhala- 
tions of  numerous  sulphur  springs.  Here 
were  the  hot  baths  of  Agrippa.  Before 
crossing  the  Anio  again  we  turn  off  on  a 
small  by-road  at  the  ,right  to  visit  the 
ruins  of  the  Villa  of  Hadrian,  the  most  pict- 
uresque and  interesting  of  all  the  imperial 
remains  in  the  neighborhood  of  Rome.  We 
pass  the  Anio  by  the  Ponte  Lucano,  so 
called  from  a  circular  tomb,  called  that  of 
LCCAXCS,  or  of  the  PLAUTII,  on  which  is 
an  interesting  inscription.  Those  who  stop 
at  Tivoli  should  by  all  means  go  to  the 
Sibyl,  a  fair  country  inn,  and  generally 
reasonable  in  price. 

The  Via  Nomentana,  going  out  of  the 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


ROME. 


Porta  Pia,  crosses  the  Anio  by  the  POXTE 
NOMENTAXA,  a  picturesque  fortified  bridge 
of  the  Middle  Ayes,  near  which  is  oue  of 
those  liistirical  sites  by  which  Rome  is 
surrounded — the  Moxs  SACEU,  where  the 
plebeians  took  refuge  during  the  great  se- 
cession movement  which  resulted  in  the 
recognition  of  popular  rights.  It  is  the 
elevation  beyond  the  Anio  and  on  the  right 
of  the  road.  This  revolution  will  be  re- 
membered as  the  occasion  of  the  narrating 
the  fable  of  the  Belly  and  Members,  which 
i*  fiMrdto  have  reconciled  the  people  with 
the  Senate,  B.C.  493. 

Another  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made 
to  Veil  (the  Etruscan  city  which  was  ten 
years  besieged  by  Camillas)  by  the  Via 
Cassia,  crossing  the  Ponte  Molle.  The  re- 
mains of  Veil  are  very  slight — two  bridges 
and  the  ruins  of  some  gates  only  ;  but  the 
site  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  imagina- 
ble for  an  inland  city,  and  the  country 
thereabout  is  the  most  picturesque  and 
wild  in  the  vicinity  of  Rome.  Carriage 
for  the  day,  30  fr.  The  distance  is  twelve 
miles  from  Rome. 

A  guide  will  be  found  at  Isola  Farnose, 
a  small  village  occupying  what  was  once 
the  Necropolis.  There  is  near  Veii  an 
Etruscan  tomb,  which  has  been  left  in  the 
state  in  which  it  was  originally  found.  Six 
miles  out  is  the  tomb  of  Vibius  Marianus. 

Seven  miles  out,  on  the  Via  Flaminia, 
are  the  excavations  at  PRIMA  PORTA  of  a 
rilla  of  Livia,  where  was  found  the  statue 
of  Augustus,  lately  added  to  the  Vatican 
collection,  and  where  are  the  finest  mural 
paintings  of  the  imperial  epoch  yet  found. 

A  pleasant  excursion  in  the  spring  is 
that  to  Osti'i,  where  are  excavations  of 
great  interest,  and  near  which  is  the  fa- 
mous forest  of  Castel  Fusano,  a  magnificent 
grove  of  stone  pines,  in  which  is  the  forti- 
fied villa  which  gives  name  to  the  forest. 
Parties  making  this  excursion  should  carry 
lunch  with  them.  Carriage,  30  fr.  The 
distance  is  14  miles  from  Rome.  Stipulate 
that  the  driver  must  take  Castel  Fusano 
on  the  way.  On  the  road  is  one  of  the 
best-preserved  bridges  of  the  republican 
period,  though  repaired  in  the  imperial 
times,  and  now  unused,  from  a  late  injury 
yet  unrepaired. 

A  day  will  be  well  spent  in  a  visit  to 
Seyni,  the  ancient  Signia,  a  Pelasgic  town, 
the  walls  of  which  are  still  in  excellent 
VOL.  II.— P 


preservation,  including  six  of  the  original 
gates.  The  Naples  railroad  passes  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  city,  and  a  vettura 
waits  the  arrival  of  both  the  early  and  late 
trains  from  Rome. 

The  studios  of  Rome  are  mostly  visitable 
any  day :  the  hours  preferred  are  after  3 
P.M.  Any  exceptions  to  this  will  be  noted 
with  the  notice  of  the  studios  in  the  follow- 
ing list.  The  studios  of  American  artists 
are  as  follows :  Sculpture — Miss  Foley,  por- 
traitist in  marble  and  cameo.  M.  1  land- 
Icy,  29  Via  Babuino :  principal  works,  a 
Diana,  a  Faun,  and  a  Madonna,  executed 
for  one  of  the  religious  establishments  of 
Rome.  Miss  Hosmer,  5  Via  Margutta; 
reception-day,  Tuesday,  which  is  strictly 
adhered  to:  the  Zenobia,  Puck,  and  a  se- 
ries of  bas-reliefs  for  a  bronze  door,  and  a 
design  for  a  fountain,  are  at  present  the 
principal  works  in  the  studio.  Ives,  39 
Babuino  :  Pandora,  Rebekah  at  the  Well, 
the  Young  Shepherd,  Cupid  mending  his 
Net,  a  large  Indian  group,  Sans  Souci,  and 
a  colossal  statue  of  the  late  Bishop  Brown- 
ell,  of  Hartford,  Connecticut,  which  is  to 
be  erected  in  bronze  in  his  native  city — a 
splendid  figure.  Rogers,  53  Margutta.  The 
visitor  will  find  here  the  models  of  the  huge 
gates  for  the  great  entrance  of  the  Capitol 
at  Washington  :  the  colossal  figures  for  the 
Virginia  monument  to  Washington ;  the 
Sentinel,  for  the  Soldiers'  monument  at 
Cincinnati ;  Nydia,  the  Blind  Girl  of  Pom- 
peii ;  several  Indian  subjects;  the  Angel 
of  the  Resurrection.  Rinehart,  68  Via  Sis- 
tina  :  Woman  of  Samaria,  Latona  and  her 
Children,  the  models  for  the  bronze  gates 
of  the  Chamber  of  Representatives.  Story.. 
14  Via  S.  Niccolo  da  Tolentino.  Besides 
the  Sibyl  and  Cleopatra,  exhibited  at  the 
London  Exhibition,  and  well  known,  there 
are  in  Mr.  Story's  studio  the  Sappho,  Ju- 
dith, Saul,  a  colossal  portrait  of  President 
Quincy,  and  a  repetition,  with  modiiica- 
tions,  of  the  Cleopatra,  and  a  bust  of  Mrs. 
Browning,  from  memory.  Miss  Stehhins, 
Vicolo  del  Basilico ;  reception-day,  Wednes- 
day :  Joseph  the  Dreamer,  a  colossal  head 
of  Satan,  and  a  statue  of  Columbus,  with 
bas-reliefs  from  his  life.  Hazeltine,  29 
Babuino:  his  principal  works  are,  Amer- 
ica honoring  her  fallen  Brave,  New  Wine, 
Excelsior,  Improvisator,  Superstition,  and 
groups  of  Spring  and  Autumn. 

The  American  figure  painters  are  Free- 
869 


ROME.  [ITALY.] 

man,  68  Via  de  Capo  le  Case;  Terry, 
23  Via  Margutta;  Chapman,  135  Babu- 
ino.  The  landscape  painters  are  Tilton, 
20  Via  S.  Basilico;  Ropes,  53  Via  Mar- 
gutta. 

Antonio  Rosetti,  54  Via  Margutta.  He 
has  been  immortalized  by  Victor  Hugo's 
notice  of  his  Esmeralda,  which  is  one  of 
his  finest  productions.  His  Sale  of  Loves, 
Ophelia,  Chastity,  and  Ingenuousness,  are 
liis  principal  works.  He  has  just  completed 
two  beautiful  figures,  viz., the  Genius  of  the 
Telegraph  and  the  Genius  of  the  Railroad, 
"  Love  Triumphant,"  etc.,  etc. 

The  most  eminent  artists  of  other  na- 
tions are  Macdonald  and  Adams,  English 
sculptors.  P.Williams,  Poingdestre,  Cap- 
tain Younge,  and  Coleman,  English  paint- 
ers. German — Wolf  and  Kolberg,  sculp- 
tors ;  Riedel  and  Brandt,  painters.  Italian 
— Tadolini,  Rinaldi,  and  Benzoni,  sculptors ; 
Mazzolini  and  Cortazzi,  painters  (mostly 
of  copies).  Bompiani  has  a  good  reputa- 
tion as  a  portraitist,  especially  in  colored 
crayons.  W.  S.  Haseltine,  No.  32  Vicolo 
de  Greci,  has  also  a  good  reputation. 

Bankers. — Afaquay,  Hooker,  $  Co.,  Pi- 
azza di  Spagna,  cash  letters  of  credit,  cir- 
cular notes,  and  drafts,  store  or  forward 
goods,  and  obtain  tickets  to  museums,  gal- 
leries, villas,  etc. 

Bookseller. — ^fr.  Plale  keeps  on  hand  a 
large  stock  of  the  latest  books,  newspapers, 
photographs,  etc.,  and  has  a  reading-room 
and  circulating  library;  he  is  agent  for 
Harper's  European  Guides. 


ROME. 


The   time   during    which   residence   in 
Rome  is  healthful  and  pleasant  is  much 
870 


misunderstood,  and  absurd  notions  prevail 
as  to  malaria,  etc.  Cases  of  fever  are  rare 
in  Home  at  midsummer  even ;  and,  with 
proper  attention  to  the  habits  adopted  by 
the  natives,  the  summer  may  be  passed 
safety  and  even  pleasantly  in  the  city. 
August  and  September  are  the  only  months 
in  which  the  traveler  will  be  inconven- 
ienced by  the  season,  and  then  the  towns 
on  the  Alban  Hills  afford  a  charming  ref- 
uge. May  and  early  June  are  the  most 
delightful  seasons  in  Rome,  and  October 
for  the  vicinity.  In  August  and  Septem- 
ber the  Campagna  is  unhealthy  from  the 
excessive  heat  of  the  day  and  the  chill  of 
the  night ;  but  even  at  this  season  there  is 
no  more  fever  in  Rome  than  in  New  York. 
Rome  is  not  a  desirable  climate  for  pulmo- 
nary diseases  ;  and  the  superstitious  dread 
of  the  disease  entertained  by  the  Romans 
makes  it  a  most  unpleasant  place  for  con> 
sumptives  unless  surrounded  by  friends. 

The  traveler  is  particularly  cautioned, 
on  leaving  Rome  for  Naples,  to  be  careful 
he  does  not  fall  asleep  in  the  cars,  also  for 
some  hours  before  liis  arrival  at  Rome,  as 
the  malaria  is  most  insidious  when  its  vic- 
tim is  asleep.  This  caution  particularly 
applies  to  persons  who  are  fatigued  at  the 
end  of  a  seven  hours'  ride  from  Naples,  and 
are  most  likely  to  fall  asleep  during  the 
onlv  dangerous  part  of  the  journey — the 
Roman  Campagna.  On  all  subjects  con- 
nected with  fever  or  other  diseases,  Com- 
mandeur  Pantaleone,  M.D.,  formerly  of 
Nice,  and  one  of  the  first  scholars  of  Eu- 
rope, may  be  consulted.  His  address  is 
Palazzo  Valdembrini,  102  Ripetta.  Anoth- 
er first-class  Italian  physician  is  Dr.  G.  Fe- 
deli,  Physician  in  Extraordinary  to  the 
Private  Hospital  of  St.  Giovanni  di  Deo, 
44  Via  Borgognona.  Also  Dr.  Percy  de  la 
Roche,  of  considerable  American  repute. 
His  leading  specialty  lies  in  the  treatment 
of  diseases  of  the  throat.  His  address  may 
be  obtained  at  the  leading  bankers'  and 
hotels. 

Lodgings  are  to  be  had  at  reasonable 
rates  early  in  the  season  ;  after  the  end  of 
October  most  of  the  eligible  rooms  are 
taken,  and  by  the  1st  of  January  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  get  rooms.  The  prices  range  from 
$30  to  $120  per  month,  furnished,  and  with 
ordinary  attendance  ;  for  $40  to  $75  a  good 
suite  of  rooms  may  be  obtained,  sufficient 
for  a  family  of  five  persons,  and  with  a 


ROME. 


[ITALY.] 


SAN  GERMAXO. 


sunny  exposure  (and  no  others  should  be 
taken  at  any  price). 

Carriages  will  cost  from  $90  to  $110  per 
month  for  the  winter  season,  including  an 
open  and  a  closed  carriage,  and  a  change 
of  horses  each  day.  A  vettura  for  the 
country,  from  25  fr.  to  40  fr. 

Should  any  Americans  wish  to  be  pre- 
sented to  the  Pope,  they  must  make  appli- 
cation, through  their  minister,  to  the  grand 
chamberlain  ^fimsignore  Maestro  di  Ca- 
mera). After  a  few  days  they  may  receive 
notice  at  what  day  and  hour  they  will  be 
received.  Gentlemen  are  received  (either 
in  uniform  or  in  evening  dress)  in  the  pri- 
vate apartments  of  the  Pope,  and  ladies  on 
Sundays,  in  one  of  the  halls  of  the  Vat  KM  n, 
ladies  only  of  royal  blood  being  admitted 
into  the  Pope's  apartments  :  they  must  ap- 
pear in  black  dresses  and  veils,  punctual  to 
the  hour.  Gentlemen  are  ushered  into  the 
Pope's  apartments  separately.  It  is  cus- 
tomary for  Protestants  to  kiss  the  Pope's 
hand  on  being  presented ;  Roman  Catholics 
kiss  his  knee  or  foot.  The  presentation  of 
ladies  is  generally  in  the  same  style  as  at 
other  courts. 

There  are  several  good  theatres  in  T?ome. 
The  principal  are  the  Teatro  Apollo  and  the 
Teatro  Costunzi;  Teatro  Argentina,  Teulro 
Valle  Capranica,  Qtririno,  Metastasio,  and 
Valletta. 

Some  to  Paris.  Time,  42  h.  33  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  186  fr.  80  c. ;  second  class,  137 
fr.  45  c. 

Rome  to  Flurence  (express).  Time,  8 
hours;  fare,  tirst  class,  34  fr.  50  c. ;  second 
class,  23  fr.  70  c. 

Rome  to  \aples.  Time,  6  h.  57  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  28  fr.  35  c. ;  second  class,  19  fr. 
92  c. 


ROUTE  No.  222. 

Rome  to  Naples,  via  Albano,  VtUetri, 
Frosinone,  Ceprano,  Capua,  and  Caterta. 
Time,  6  h.  35m.;  fare,  first  class  (ex- 


'  press),  28  fr.  75  c.  Ordinary  trains,  10 
hours ;  fare,  first  class,  28  fr.  75  c. ;  second 
class,  19  fr.  90  c. 

Albano  is  described  in  excursions  from 

Rome.      Velletri  (hotel,  Gallo)  is  seen  on  a 

height  to  the  left.     Passing  through  the 

{  valley   of  Sacco,  remains  of  the   ancient 

j  Signia  may  be  seen  on  the  right.     This 

was  a  fortress  built  by  the  last  of  the  Tar- 

quiiis. 

On  the  height  on  the  left  stands  the 
town  of  Anagni  (hotel,  <V Italie).  for  many 
years  a  papal  residence.  The  surroundings 
are  picturesque,  but  there  is  nothing  special 
to  be  seen. 

Three  miles  from  the  line  is  situated  the 
modern  town  of  Ferentino,  the  Ferentinum 
of  the  ancients.  It  contains  10,000  inhab- 
itants, and  numerous  remains  of  the  an- 
cient fortress  and  walls  are  yet  to  be  seen. 
Hotel,  des  Stringers.  Some  nine  miles 
higher  up  stands  the  town  of  Alatri,  the 
ancient  Alatrium.  The  walls  of  its  an- 
cient castle  are  still  most  perfect. 

Frosiaone,  some  distance  from  the  station, 
contains  10,000  inhabitants.    There  are  but 
j  few  remains  of  this  ancient  fortress. 

Ceprano,  formerly  the  frontier  town  be- 
i  tween  the  Italian  and  Roman  states.    There 
is  a  good  bujfet  here. 

San  Germnno. — Hotel,  Cation.  This  is 
the  usual  stopping-place  for  travelers  who 
wish  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  monastery  of 
Xfont"  Casino,  situated  about  1J  hours  from 
the  town.  Donkeys,  2  fr. 

The  monastery  is  one  of  the  oldest  and 
most  celebrated  in  Europe :  it  was  found- 
ed by  St.  Benedict  in  529,  on  the  site  of  a 
temple  of  Apollo.  The  interior  of  the 
church  is  decorated  with  paintings,  sculpt- 
ure, and  mosaic.  The  library  contains 
10,000  valuable  volumes  ;  but  its  great 
wealth  is  in  its  MSS.,  executed  by  its  own 
members — a  series  of  papal  bulls,  documents 
of  emperors,  kings,  and  other  rulers  for  six 
hundred  years.  There  are  over  two  hun- 
dred students  now  being  educated  in  the 
;  monastery.  Travelers  are  entertained 
'  liberally,  but  ladies  can  only  enter  the 
j  church ;  consequently,  if  there  be  any 
lady  visitors,  they  must  expect  to  return 
to  the  town  the  same  day. 

Cli.s.-  by  the  monastery  rises  Monte 
Cairo,  5000  feet  high. 

Passing  the  station  Teano,  near  which 
is  situated  the  ancient  Cues,  a  Roman  col- 
871 


CASEKTA. 


[ITALY.] 


TERKACINA. 


ony  which  produced  the  vinum  Calenum, 
a  wine  much  praised  by  Horace. 

Capua  is  reached.  Hotel,  della  Posta.  It 
contains  10,000  inhabitants,  and  was  built  in 
the  9th  century.  After  the  destruction  of 
the  ancient  Capua,  which  was  founded  by 
the  Etruscans,  and  during  the  Second  Punic 
War,  when  it  formed  an  alliance  with  Han- 
nibal, it  contained  300,000  inhabitants,  and 
was  the  second  city  in  Italy.  After  the 
Carthaginians  were  conquered,  the  Ro- 
mans almost  destroyed  the  city.  Caesar, 
however,  restored  it  in  a  measure  to  its 
former  splendor,  but  in  the  8th  century  it 
was  razed  to  the  ground  by  the  Saracens. 

The  ancient  amphitheatre  outside  the 
town  is  the  most  remarkable  ruin  :  it  was 
capable  of  containing  100,000  spectators, 
and  was  the  most  ancient  in  Italy ;  very 
little  but  the  substructure  remains. 

Caserta.  —  Hotels,  Victoria  and  Stella 
(Tltalie.  The  town  is  neat  and  well  built. 
Population,  11,500.  The  principal  object 
of  attraction  is  the  Royal  Palace,  erected 
in  1752  by  King  Charles  III.  from  de- 
signs by  Vanviltlli.  It  contains  a  beau- 
tiful chapel,  decorated  with  exquisite  mar- 
bles, gold,  and  lapis  lazuli,  which  has  a 
fine  "  Presentation  in  the  Temple,"  by 
Raphael  Mengs.  There  is  a  very  pretty 
court  theatre,  adorned  with  handsome  pil- 
lars from  the  ruins  at  Pozzuoli.  The  gar- 
dens are  very  handsome,  with  fountains 
and  cascades.  This  was  the  favorite  resi- 
dence of  the  King  of  Naples,  and  is  now 
unoccupied. 

At  Cancello  a  branch  line  of  road  ex- 
tends to  Benevento  and  Foggia. 

Castelnuovo  is  the  last  station  before  ar-i 
riving  at  Naples.  From  this  point  Vesu- 
rius  is  visible  until 

Naples  is  reached.     See  Index. 


ROUTE  No.  223. 

Home  to  Naples,  via  the  Pontine  Marshes. 
This  route  has   become  entirely  unused 
872 


since  the  opening  of  the  railway.  It  was 
formerly  the  great  line  of  communication 
between  Central  and  Southern  Italy ;  but 
few  will  care  to  spend  three  days  on  a 
trip  where  there  is  but  little  to  be  seen, 
and  the  same  can  be  made  in  seven  hours 
by  rail  and  much  more  comfortably. 

Up  to  a  very  late  period  the  mountain 
districts  were  infested  with  brigands,  but 
the  diligence  has  rarely  been  interfered 
with  since  the  annexation  of  the  States  of 
the  Church. 

The  journey  occupies  about  three  days' 
time.  Rail  to  VMetri,  1  h.  17  m. ;  thence 
by  diligence  to  Terraciua  in  8  hours,  fare 
7  fr. ;  thence  to  the  railway  station  of  Spa- 
ranisi  in  9  h.  30  m.,  fare  8  fr.  75  c. ;  whole 
time  20  h.  24  m.,  fare  26  fr.  85  c. 

Velletri  is  described  in  Route  No.  222. 

The  present  road  is  nearly  idsntical  with 
the  ancient  Via  Appia,  constructed  300 
years  before  the  Christian  era.  Before 
arriving  at  the  Pontine  Marshes  the  town 
of 

Cisterna  is  reached.  It  is  surmounted 
by  a  castle  of  the  Gaetani.  The  diligence 
changes  horses  at  Terre  tre  Ponte,  and 
commences  to  cross  the 

Pontine  Marshes,  about  35  miles  in 
length,  and  an  average  breadth  of  9  miles. 
This  section  of  country  was  at  one  time  a 
highly  cultivated  district,  but  a  very  small 
portion  is  now  under  cultivation.  The 
malaria  arising  in  the  summer  season  is 
fatal  to  both  man  and  beast,  as  the  ave- 
nues fur  drainage  are  inadequate  to  carry 
off  the  water  which  descends  from  the 
mountains  during  the  rainy  season.  Sev- 
eral attempts  have  been  made  to  drain 
them,  but  without  satisfactory  results,  the 
surface  being  too  level. 

Passing  Fororo  Appio,  where  a  diligence 
connects  with  the  ancient  Sezza,  noted  for 
its  good  wine,  the  road  quits  the  old  Via 
Appia,  approaches  the  mountains,  and  en- 
ters a  district  rich  in  orange  groves  and 
pomegranates. 

Terracina, — Hotel,  Royal.  The  ancient 
Tarracina  was  formerly  the  southern  fron- 
tier of  the  States  of  the  Church.  It  is  an 
ancient  episcopal  residence  on  the  shore 
of  the  Mediterranean.  The  old  city  is 
built  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  the  ruins  of  the  old  palace  of 
Theodoric  the  Ostrogoth.  A  magnificent 
view  is  obtained  from  the  summit 


FONDI. 


[ITALY.] 


SPARANISI. 


Among  the  numerous  islands  in  the  dis- 
tance, notice  those  to  the  south,  one  of 
which  is  \~endotiita,  the  ancient  Pandataria, 
•where  Augustus  banished  his  daughter 
Julia,  and  where  Nero  put  to  death  his 
wife  Octavia. 

The  principal  building  is  the  cathedral 
of  A'.  I'ittro,  supposed  to  occupy  the  site 
of  the  ancient  temple  of  Jupiter  Anxurus. 
The  clock-tower  commands  an  extensive 
view.  The  harbor,  which  in  ancient  times 
was  of  great  importance,  is  now  filled  with 
sand. 

Fourteen  miles  from  Terracina,  and 

Fondi  is  reached.  Adjoining  the  inn 
are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  chateau  of  the 
Colonnas.  In  1534  the  pirate  Haireddin 
made  a  descent  on  the  town  for  the  pur- 
pose of  carrying  off  the  beautiful  Countess 
Giula  Gonzaga,  to  present  to  the  harem  of 
the  Sultan  Solyman  II. ;  failing  in  his  de- 
signs, he  almost  completely  destroyed  the 
town.  The  road  now  passes  through  a 
mountainous  region  to  the  town  of 

Itri,  noted  for  the  residence  of  the  rob- 
ber-chief Marco  Schiarra,  and  for  the  nu- 
merous robberies  committed  at  its  castle. 
Washington  Irving's  "Inn  of  Terracina," 
and  ''Fra  Diavolo"  (Michele  Pezza),  who 
was  a  native  of  Itri,  have  added  much  to 
its  notoriety.  On  the  right  as  Formia  is 
approached  stands  a  round  tower,  said  to 
be  the  tomb  of  Cicero,  who  was  here  mur- 
dered by  the  tribunes  Herennius  and 
Popilius,  in  the  64th  year  of  his  age. 

I'onnia. — Hotel  de  t Europe.  This  was 
formerly  the  Molt  di  Gaeta,  being  distant 
five  miles  from  that  fortress. 

Gaeta  is  a  strong  fortress  situated  at  the 
end  of  a  small  peninsula,  and  contains 
14,500  inhabitants.  It  is  said  by  Virgil 
to  have  been  the  tomb  of  Caieta,  nurse  of 
jEneas.  A  monument  was  consequently 
erected  on  its  summit.  It  is  a  place  of 
great  strength,  and  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Romans  in  340  B.C.  Its  port  was 
built  by  Antoninus  the  Pious.  After  the 
destruction  of  the  Roman  Empire,  Gaeta 
wa<  governed  by  its  own  dukes,  as  vassals 
of  the  Church.  It  was  captured  by  Al- 
phonse  of  Aragon  in  14:35,  who  united  it  to 
the  kingdom  of  Italy. 

The,  French  signed  here  a  capitulation 
by  which  they  abandoned  the  kingdom  of 
Naples  to  the  Spaniards. 

Gaeta  has  undergone  several  remarkable 


sieges.  It  was  taken  by  the  Austrians  in 
ITiii' :  in  17:;  I  by  the  Sardinian  and  Span- 
ish army  ;  in  1799  and  180C  by  the  French, 
and  in  1815  and  1821  by  the  Austrians. 
Francis  II.  retired  here  after  the  entrance 
of  Garibaldi  into  Naples,  and  was  here 
besieged  by  the  Piedmontese,  and  capitu- 
lated February  13th,  1861.  The  king  was 
conveyed  to  Rome  by  a  French  man-of- 
war. 

Pope  Pius  IX.,  when  banished  from 
Rome  in  1848,  remained  at  Gaeta  until 
his  return  in  April,  1850. 

Napoleon  I.  gave  the  title  of  Due  de 
Gaeta  to  Gaudin,  his  minister  of  Finance. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  most  interesting 
building :  it  contains  the  tomb  of  the  Duke 
of  Bourbon ;  also  a  banner  presented  by 
the  Pope  to  John  of  Austria,  brother  of 
Philip  II.,  and  hero  of  Lepanto.  There 
are  numerous  relics  of  antiquity  in  the 
vicinity  ;  the  remains  of  a  temple  of  Nep- 
tune, villas  of  Hadrian,  Scaurus,  etc. 

Ascending  to  the  summit  of  the  promon- 
tory we  there  find  the  Torre  d1  Orlando,  or 
tomb  of  Munatius  Plancus,  the  founder  of 
the  city  of  Lyons  (B.C.  43) ;  the  position  is 
a  glorious  one,  and  the  view  superb. 

Quitting  the  Via  Appia,  and  crossing  the 
suspension  bridge  over  the  Garigliano,  the 
ancient  town  of 

Sessa  is  reached.  It  is  situated  on  the 
slope  of  a  hill,  and  contains  some  relics  of 
antiquity.  The  village  of 

C'tcano,  once  celebrated  for  its  hand- 
some women,  is  passed,  and  the  railway 
station  of 

Sparanisi  reached.  For  remainder  of 
route,  see  Route  No.  222. 


ROUTE  No.  224. 

Naples  to  Foygia,  via  Benevento.     Time- 
6  h.  35  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  22  fr.  40  c.  ; 
second  class,  15  fr.  70  c.  (express). 
Naples.     See  Index. 
Caserta.     See  Route  No.  222. 
873 


BENEVENTO. 


[ITALY.] 


AVEZZANO. 


The  only  object  of  particular  interest  in 
this  route  is  the  town  ofBenevento,  situated 
half  way  between  Naples  and  Foggia.  The 
town  contains  19,000  inhabitants.  Hotels 
very  poor;  Benevento  the  best.  This  town 
was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  province 
of  the  same  name.  Its  ancient  title  was 
Maleventum  ;  but  the  Romans,  after  hav- 
ing vanquished  Pyrrhus  in  275,  thinking 
the  name  augured  ill,  changed  it  to  Bene- 
ventum.  Hannibal  besieged  it  without  re- 
sult. It  again  came  into  possession  of 
the  Eastern  Empire,  but  was  besieged 
and  ruined  by  the  Goths  under  Totila ; 
after  which  it  was  taken  by  the  king  of 
the  Lombards,  in  whose  possession  it  re- 
mained until  the  fall  of  that  empire,  when 
for  a  long  time  it  was  governed  by  its  own 
dukes.  In  1047  it  was  captured  by  the 
Emperor  Henry  III.,  who  ceded  it  to  his 
relation,  Pope  Leo  IX.  ;  and  it  remained 
in  possession  of  the  Church  down  to  1769, 
when  it  came  into  the  possession  of  Ferdi- 
nand I.  of  Naples.  In  1806  Napoleon  I. 
created  it  a  principality  in  favor  of  Talley- 
rand. In  1814  it  was  restored  to  the  Pope, 
but  was  annexed  to  the  kingdom  of  Italy 
in  1860. 

In  1266  a  battle  was  fought  near  Bene- 
vento  between  the  young  and  chivalrous 
Ring  Manfred  and  Charles  I.  of  Anjou,  in 
which  the  former  lost  his  throne  and  life, 
and  Charles  remained  master  of  Naples 
and  the  Sicilies. 

The  principal  object  of  attraction  is  Tra- 
jan's Arch  i<f  Triumph,  constructed  of 
Paros  marble,  and  dating  from  A.D.  114. 
It  was  dedicated  to  that  emperor  by  the 
Roman  Senate  and  people,  and  is  one  of 
the  best-preserved  ancient  structures  on 
the  peninsula.  The  reliefs  with  which  it 
is  decorated  give  a  history  of  the  life  of 
Trajan. 

The  Cathedral  is  built  in  the  Lombard- 
Saracen  style  of  the  14th  century.  In 
front  of  it  stands  an  Egyptian  obelisk  of 
red  granite,  which  once  belonged  to  the 
temple  of  Isis.  The  bronze  door  of  the 
cathedral  is  finely  illustrated  with  bas-re- 
liefs of  subjects  from  the  New  Testament, 
executed  in  Constantinople.  The  former 
palace  of  the  cardinal  legate  is  now  a 
barrack. 

At  the  station  of  Giardinetto  there  is  a 
diligence  for  Troja. 

Foggia.     See  Route  No.  216. 
874 


ROUTE  No.  225. 

Ancona  to  Xapks,  via  Pescara,  Sulmona 
(with  excursion  to  Lake  Fucino.  lately 
drained  by  Prince  Torlonia),  and  hernia. 
Time  from  Ancona  to  Sulmona  by  rail  8 
hours  ;  fare,  first  class,  20  fr.  20  c. ;  second 
class,  16  fr.  10  c. 

Diligence  daily  from  Sulmona  to  Caia- 
nello.  Time,  7  h.  30  m. 

Railway  to  Naples  in  3  hours.  See 
Route  No.  222. 

From  Ancona  to  Pescara  is  described  in 
Route  No.  216. 

There  is  but  little  to  see  in  this  route, 
some  fine  scenery  excepted ;  and  a  consid- 
erable portion  of  it  has  been  considered 
unsafe  on  account  of  the  brigands,  dili- 
gences in  the  present  year  (1876)  being 
often  accompanied  by  an  escort. 

Chieti  (hotel,  Sole),  capital  of  the 
province  of  Abruzzo  Citra,  containing 
20,000  inhabitants,  is  a  busy  industrial 
town. 

Popo'i  (hotel,  America),  a  small  but 
busy  town ;  diligences  leave  here  daily 
for 

Aquila,  a  handsome  town,  with  fine 
streets  and  numerous  handsome  palaces. 
It  was  founded  by  the  Emperor  Frederick 
II.,  and  is  now  the  capital  of  Abruzzo 
Ultra,  containing  16,000  inhabitants.  It 
suffered  considerably  by  the  earthquakes 
of  1703  and  1706.  It  was  taken  by  the 
French  in  1798,  and  by  the  Austrians  in 
1815. 

Diligence  to  Avezzano — which  before  its 
drainage  stood  on  Lake  Fucino — in  ten 
hours.  The  inns  are  poor,  and  there  is 
nothing  to  be  seen  in  the  town  except  the 
chateau  of  Prince  Barberini,  and  a  small 
collection  of  antiquities  in  the  court-house; 
but  it  has  been  brought  within  the  notice 
of  travelers  as  a  starting-point  to  visit  the 
works  of  the  Prince  Torlonia  of  Rome,  who 


M  /\ 


Harj 


.  E.  S 


id  Book 


SLI.MOXA. 


[ITALY.; 


NAPLES. 


finally  succeeded  in  1875  in  doing  what  f  and  aqueduct,  and  was  partially  destroyed 
Caesar  proposed  and  Claudius  commenced,    by  an  earthquake  in  1705. 
but  has  never  before  been  accomplished.        Diligence  daily  to   Campdbasso,  capital 
There  being  no  outlet  to  the  lake,  its  vari-    of  Molise,  and  noted  for  its  steel-ware, 
ations  were  most  destructive  to  the  sur-        Caianello  station ;  see  Route  222. 
rounding  villages ;  hence  the   attempt  to 
drain  it,  in  addition  to  the  great  value  of 
the  land  reclaimed.     Thirt}-  thousand  men 
were  employed  by  the  Emperor  Claudius 
for  eleven  years;  and  probably  had  he  lived, 
or  had  any  but  a  Nero  succeeded  him,  the 
work  might  have  been  terminated  in  an- 
cient times.     Frederick   II.  attempted  to 
reopen  the  tunnel  excavated  by  Claudius, 


but  failed.  From  1780  to  1810  the  water 
had  risen  30  feet.  Several  attempts  were 
made  between  that  date  and  1852  to  open 
the  old  canal  and  prolong  it,  but  without 


NAPLES. 
Naples  has  a  population  of  458,614. 


Ho- 


tels :  Grand,  Tramontano  Beau  Rivage,  and 
de  Geneve. 


success.     In  1852  the  government  made  a       Hotel  Tramontano  Beau  Rivage,  on  the 
grant  of  the  lake  to  a  company,  on  condi-  Corso  Vittorio  Emmanuele,  with  command- 
tion  that  they  would  drain  it.     This  grant  ing  views  of  the  Gulf,  island  of  Capri,  etc. 
was  purchased  by  Prince  Torlonia,  and  op-  |      Hotel  de  Geneve,  Place  Medina,  owned  by 
erations  were  commenced  under  the  direc-  Messr*.  Isotta,  also  proprietors  of  the  Hotel 


tion  of  the  French  engineer  J/.  </••  Mon- 
ti'ii-het,  chief  engineer  of  the  Uourhes-du- 
Klione,  who  died  in  Naples  in  1859.  M.  de 


Quisisana,  Castellamare. 

Station. — Always  take  the  omnibus,  and 
in  good  time,  on  leaving ;  facchini,  10  c.  for 


I-'r<uiqueville  and  .I/.  I'aulin  Tulub  /,  who  'small  and  20  c.  for  large  pieces.  The  sta- 
\ven-  much  interested  in  the  work,  sent  tion  is  celebrated  for  being,  with  the  po- 
M.  de  Place,  the  head  engineer  of  the  lice,  and,  in  a  minor  degree,  the  municipal 
Lyons  Company,  to  undertake  the  super-  authorities,  a  disgrace  to  this  beautiful  city, 
intendence.  The  difficulties  were  enor-  On  these  last  fall,  to  a  great  extent,  the 
mous,  a  great  part  of  the  tunnel,  in  section  responsibility  of  the  terrible  visitation  of 
nearly  fourteen  feet  square,  being  300  feet  cholera  in  September,  1884;  defective  sew- 
below  the  surface,  and  numerous  shafts  jerage  and  drainage,  and  accumulated  filth 
had  to  be  constructed  to  this  immense  of  thoroughfares  and  habitations,  causing 
depth  for  the  admission  of  air  and  the  the  death  of  several  thousand  poor  people, 
removal  of  the  rubbish.  The  length  of  -  Cabs.  —  One  horse,  dsiy,  city,  course, 
the  tunnel  is  four  miles,  and  the  land  re-  60  c.,  hour,  Ifr.  40  c. ;  night,  12  to  6,  course, 
claimed  45,000  acres.  Credit  must  be  1  fr.,  hour,  2  fr. ;  two  horses,  day,  course, 
given  to  French  engineers  for  this  the  1  fr.  20  c.,  hour,  2  fr. ;  night,  course,  2  fr. ; 
third  great  work  of  the  19th  century,  com-  every  additional  half-hour,  70  c. 
ing  as  it  does  after  Mont  Cenis  and  the  To  the  different  points  outside  the  city 
Suez  Canal.  I  it  is  best  to  make  a  bargain.  The  driver 

Sulmona  (hotels  bad),  the  terminus  of  will  naturally  ask  double  the  fare;  offer 
the  railway.  Nothing  of  importance  to  be :  him  half,  and  the  chances  are  he  will  take 
seen.  The  Hotel  de  I'ille  and  churches  of  it.  When  not  knowing  the  fare,  your  ho- 
.*>.  If  aria  della  Tomba  and  Francesco  d' A*-,  tel  people  will  best  arrange  the  matter. 
sisi  are  the  principal  buildings.  The  earth-  Carriages  for  making  excursions  in  tho 
quake  which  did  such  damage  to  Aquila  vicinity  of  the  city,  30  fr.  per  day,  with  2 
injured  these  churches  considerably.  fr.  pourboire. 

Castel  di  Sangro,  picturesquely  situated  If  arriving  by  steamer,  as  soon  as  per- 
on  the  River  Sangro,  contains  the  ruins  of  mission  is  given  to  land,  your  baggage  is 
an  old  castle;  nothing  else  of  interest.  taken  to  the  Dogana  for  1  fr.  :  when  it  is 

Iternia  (hotel,  Pettorossi)  contains  a  few  examined,  the  "facchini  della  dogaua" 
Roman  antiquities.  Population.  6000.  It  will  carry  it  to  your  carriage,  the  tariff  for 
is  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  contains  a  cathedral  large  pieces  40  c.,  and  for  small  10  c. 

875 


NAPLES. 


[ITALY.] 


NAPLES. 


It  is  only  when  landing  from  the  Bay 
of  Naples  that  the  following  quotation 
will  apply,  as  the  drive  from  the  station 
rather  dispels  your  ideas  acquired  from 
Rogers : 

"  This  region,  surely,  is  not  of  the  earth. 
Was  it  not   dropped  from  heaven  ?    Not  a 

grove, 

Citron,  or  pine,  or  cedar ;  not  a  grot, 
8,-a-worn  and  mantled  with  the  gadding  vine, 
But  breathes  enchantment.     Not  a  cliff  but 

flings 

On  the  clear  wave  some  image  of  delight, 
Some  cabin-roof  glowing  with  crimson  flowers, 
Some  rained  temple  or  fallen  monument, 
To  muse  on  as  the  bark  is  gliding  by. 

Yet  here  met  h  inks 

Truth  wants  no  ornament,  in  her  own  shape 
Filling  the  mind  by  turns  with  awe  and  love, 
By  turns  inclining  to  wild  ecstasy 
And  soberest  meditation. 

Here  the  vines 

Wed  each  her  elm,  and  o'er  the  golden  grain 
Hang  their  luxuriant  clusters,  checkering 
The  sunshine ;  where  when  cooler  shadows  fall, 
And  the  mild  moon  her  fairy  net-work  weaves, 
The  lute  or  mandoline,  accompanied 
By  many  .1  voice  yet  sweeter  than  their  own, 
Kindles  now  slowly ;  and  the  dance  displays 
The  gentls  arts  and  witcheries  of  love, 
Its  hopes,  and  fears,  and  feigning:-,  till  the 

youth 
Drops  on  hid  knee  as  vanquished,  and  the 

maid, 

Her  tambourine  uplifting  with  a  grace, 
Nature's  and  Nature's  only,  bids  him  rise." 

Naples  is  very  ancient.  It  was  found- 
ed by  the  people  of  Cumae,  a  colony  from 
Greece,  who  gradually  spread  themselves 
round  the  Bay  of  Naples,  and  was  called 
from  this  circumstance  Neapolif,  or  li  The 
New  City."  It  was  also  called  Parthe- 
nope,  from  its  being  the  burying-place  of 
one  of  the  sirens  of  that  name.  It  was, 
therefore,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  a 
Greek  city ;  its  inhabitants  spoke  the  Greek 
language,  and  were  long  distinguished  by 
their  attachment  to  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  their  ancestors.  It  was  on  this 
account,  according  to  Tacitus,  that  it  was 
selected  by  Nero  to  make  his  debut  on  the 
-t;i'-c-.  such  a  proceeding  being  less  offens- 
ive there,  and  less  repugnant  to  the  pre- 
vailing sentiments  than  in  Rome.  Naples, 
in  truth,  was  then,  as  now,  a  chosen  seat  of 
pleasure.  Its  hot  baths  were  reckoned 
equal  to  those  of  Baiae ;  and  the  number 
and  excellence  of  its  theatres  and  other 
places  of  amusement,  its  matchless  scen- 
ery, the  mildness  of  its  climate,  and  the 
luxury  and  effeminacy  of  its  inhabitants, 
made  it  a  favorite  retreat  of  the  wealthy 
87G 


Romans,  and  justified  Ovid  in  calling  it 
In  otiu  natam  Partkennpem.  After  the  fall 
of  the  Roman  Empire  it  underwent  many 
vicissitudes.  It,  however,  early  became 
the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Naples,  and 
remained  so  until  the  late  regeneration  of 
Italy.  And,  notwithstanding  the  calami- 
ties it  has  suffered  from  war,  earthquakes, 
etc.,  it  has  long  been  the  most  populous 
!  city  of  Italy,  and  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing that  is  any  where  to  be  met  with. 
The  country  around  Naples  is  rich  in  beau- 
ties of  scenery  ;  nothing  can  well  be  con- 
ceived to  be  more  beautiful.  Quite  a  cel- 
ebrated author  remarks  that  he  congrat- 
ulated himself  upon  being  delayed  on  the 
route,  so  that  he  did  not  arrive  at  Naples 
until  late  at  night,  for  it  enabled  him  to 
anticipate  with  brighter  hopes  the  bc;aity 
of  the  scene  that  opened  on  his  eyes  with 
the  light  of  morning.  The  situation  of 
Naples  is  as  fine  as  can  be  imagined,  be- 
ing partly  seated  on  a  spacious  bay,  upon 
the  shores  of  which  are  magnificent  villas 
and  gardens. 

It  is  principally  in  respect  to  situation 
that  this  city  surpasses  most  others.  The 
streets  are  straight,  and  paved  with  square 
blocks  of  lava  laid  in  mortar,  and  said  to 
resemble  the  old  Roman  roads.  Owing  to 
the  mildness  of  the  climate,  a  great  deal 
of  business  is  carried  on  in  the  open  streets, 
and,  while  walking  along,  you  are  accosted 
by  numerous  different  traders.  There  is 
but  little  real  magnificence  in  architec- 
ture ;  and,  though  many  of  the  buildings 
are  erected  on  a  very  grand  scale,  they 
are  generally  overloaded  with  ornament. 
The  houses  resemble  those  of  Paris,  ex- 
cept that  they  are  on  a  larger  scale.  The 
whole  of  the  ground  floor  of  these  tene- 
ment buildings  is  occupied  by  store-keep- 
ers, while  the  upper  portion  is  the  dwell- 
ing of  numerous  families. 

The  nobility  are  fond  of  great  show  and 
splendor.  The  females  are  proud,  even 
when  very  poor.  They  never  go  out  un- 
less to  ride,  and  bestow  great  pains  and 
time  upon  their  personal  charms,  to  fasci- 
nate the  other  sex.  A  correct  idea  of  their 
moral  habits  and  manners  may  be  obtain- 
ed from  the  tales  of  Boccaccio  and  La  Fon- 
taine. The  principal  promenade  of  the 
ladies  is  on  their  own  roof,  which  is  gen- 
erally adorned  with  shrubs  and  flowers. 

Naples  is  not  unprovided  with  fortifica- 


NAPLES. 


[ITALY.] 


NAPLES. 


tions,  having  on  its  N.W.  side  the  Castle 
of  St.  Elmo,  Castello  Nuovo,  adjoining  the 
royal  palace,  and  the  Castello  dell'  <  )vo. 
on  a  rock  which  projects  into  the  sea.  l!r- 
tween  the  Palazzo  Kettle  and  the  sea  are  .sit- 
uated the  arsenal  and  the  cannon-fonndery. 
St.  Elmo  has  extensive  subterranean  bomb- 
proof works.  Naples  has  three  ports : 
/'<•;•/'(  Piccolo,  the  last  remnant  of  the  an- 
ri-nt  port  of  Palaeopolis,  is  now.  however, 
only  adapted  for  boats  ;  the  Porto  Grande, 
formed  by  Charles  II.  of  Anjou  in  1302; 
Porto  M'ditaire,  a  new  harbor  for  ships  of 
the  royal  navy,  commenced  in  1826  by 
Francis  I.,  and  still  in  progress.  A  few 
modernized  gates,  together  with  the  cas- 
tles above  mentioned,  are  all  that  re-main 
of  the  mediaeval  fortifications. 

Naples  has  300  churches.  Some  of  them 
are  remarkable  for  their  architecture  and 
works  of  art.  They  contain  a  collection  of 
tombs  which  surpass  those  to  be  found  in 
any  other  city  of  Italy.  The  Cathedral,  Cat- 
ledrale,  or  Duomo,  commenced  by  Charles 
I.  of  Anjou  in  1272,  from  the  designs  of 
Mussacio.  Over  the  great  entrance  to  this 
liuililiiig  arc  the  tombs  of  Charles  I.  of  An- 
jou, of  Charles  Martel.  king  of  Hungary, 
eldest  son  of  Charles  II.,  and  of  his  wife 
dementia,  daughter  of  Rudolph  of  Haps- 
bunr.  Over  the  side  doors  are  two  large- 
pictures  by  Vasari.  The  one  on  the  left 
door  represents  the  patron  saints  of  Na- 
ples, whose  heads  are  portraits  of  Paul  III., 
of  Alessandro  Rannueio,  Pier  Luigi,  and 
Ottavia  Farnese;  also  of  Tiberio  Crispo 
and  Ascanio  Sforza.  The  baptismal  font, 
an  antique  vase  of  green  basalt,  is  sculp- 
tured in  high  relief.  In  the  second  chapel 
is  a  picture  of  the  incredulity  of  St.  Thom- 
as, by  Marco  da  Siena ;  a  beautiful  bas-re- 
lief of  the  Entombment,  by  Giovanni  da 
Nola.  In  the  Chapel  De'  Seripanai  is  the 
painting  of  the  Assumption  by  Perugino. 
Here  also  is  the  sepulchral  monument  of 
Andrew,  king  of  Hungary,  husband  of  Jo- 
anna I.  Near  it  is  the  tomb  of  Innocent 
IV.,  from  the  design  of  Pietro  de'  Stefani. 
Close  to  this  is  the  sacrist}',  containing  nu- 
merous portraits  of  archbishops  of  Naples. 
Left  of  the  high-altar  is  the  Gothic  chapel 
of  the  Capece  Galeota  family.  Over  the 
altar  is  a  painting  representing  our  Saviour 
between  SS.  .lanuarius  and  Athanasius. 
Beneath  the  high-altar  is  the  beautifully 
decorated  subterranean  chapel  called  the 
VOL.  II.— P  2 


1  Confessional  of  San  Gennaro.  The  Minu. 
toli  Chapel,  designed  by  Massacio,  has  a 
painting  illustrating  the  Passion,  by  To- 
ina-o  de'  Stefani,  and  the  tomb  of  Cardi- 
nal Miuutoli. 

The  Basilica  of  Santa  Restituta  was  the 
ancient  Cathedral  for  the  Greek  ritual. 
It  is  supposed  to  occupy  the  site  of  the 
Temple  of  Apollo.  The  chapel  of  Sla.  Ma- 
ria  del  Principio,  on  the  left  side  of  the 
church,  contains  an  ancient  mosaic,  repre- 
senting the  Madonna  in  Byzantine  cos- 
tume. It  is  called  "Del  Principle,"  and 
derives  its  name  from  being  the  first  figure 
of  the  Virgin  that  demanded  veneration  in 
Naples.  On  the  roof  of  the  nave  is  a  pic- 
ture representing  the  body  of  Santa  Resti- 
tuta being  carried  away  in  a  boat  by  an- 
gels toward  Ischia. 

In  the  right  aisle  of  the  Cathedral  is 
the  chapel  of  San  Gennaro,  called  the  Cap- 
pella  del  Tesoro.  It  was  25  years  in  proc- 
ess of  completion,  and  is  said  to  have  cost 
500,000  ducats.  The  gates,  from  the  de- 
signs of  C.  Fonzaga,  were  executed  by 
Monte,  Biagio,  and  Soppa,  at  a  cost  of 
32,000  ducats  and  45  years  of  labor. 

In  a  tabernacle  behind  the  high -altar 
are  two  phials  containing  the  blood  of  St. 
Januariiu.  The  Liquefaction,  which  lasts 
for  I'i.cht  days  in  succession,  takes  place 
twice  a  year.  This  is  the  greatest  relig- 
ious festival  that  occurs  in  Naples.  There 
are  several  others :  the  Ftsta  di  Piedigrot- 
tn,  which  takes  place  on  the  8th  of  Sep- 
tember, instituted  by  Charles  III.  in  com- 
memoration of  the  victory  of  the  Spaniards 
over  the  Austrians  at  Velletri  in  17-14  :  the 
Ffsta  di  M(/nte  Vtrgine,  to  which  is  devoted 
three  days,  occurs  on  Whit-Sunday  and 
derives  its  name  from  the.  sanctuary  of  the 
Madonna  di  Monte  Vergine.  near  Avellino. 
The  )fadonna  deir  Area,  seven  miles  from 
Naples,  is  visited  by  a  number  of  people, 
who  can  not  afford  to  go  to  the  Monte  Yer- 
gine.  Here  they  sing  and  dance  the  Ta- 
rantella. The  veneration  for  the  Madonna 
is  universal  in  Naples.  In  almost  every 
shop  may  be  seen  a  picture  of  the  '•  Mndre 
di  Dio,"  with  lamps  burning  constantly 
before  it. 

The  chapel  of  Santa  Maria  della  Pietra 
di  Sangri  is  one  of  the  gems  of  Naples. 
The  altar-piece  is  a  Descent  from  the  Cross, 
by  Francetco  Celebrano.  The  principal 
pieces  of  sculpture  are  Vice  Convinced;  Pit- 
877 


NAPLES. 


[ITALY.] 


NAPLES. 


dicitia,  wife  of  Antonio  di  Sangro ;  and,  in 
a  lower  chapel,  the  exquisite  figure  of  the 
Veiled  Christ,  by  Sannorartino. 

The  Christmas  festivals  are  very  merry. 
The  bagpipers  of  the  Abruzzi,  who  annual- 
ly visit  Naples  and  Rome  at  this  season, 
play  the  hymns  and  songs  beneath  the  fig- 
ures of  the  Madonna,  and  thereby  earn  a 
few  ducats.  Their  appearance  is  some- 
what striking,  with  their  pointed  hats, 
brown  cloaks,  sandals,  and  their  bagpipes, 
and  is  a  sure  indication  of  the  approach 
of  Christmas.  On  Easter  and  Good  Fri- 
day the  churches  give  a  representation  of 
the  Holj'  Sepulchre.  At  vespers  on  the 
Wednesday,  Thursday,  and  Friday  the 
Miserere  of  Zingarelli  is  sung. 

The  churches  of  St.  Paul,  St.  Filippo 
Neri,  Spirito  Santo,  and  S.  Martino  are  all 
deserving  of  particular  attention,  as  to 
each  are  connected  some  historical  reminis- 
cences; also  many  paintings,  remarkable 
tombs,  and  other  works  of  art.  S.  Martino  is 
considered  one  of  the  most  beautiful  church- 
es in  the  city.  It  was  erected  and  dedicated 
to  the  Virgini  parenti  by  Sannazzaro,  and 
derives  its  name,  Del  Parto,  from  his  well- 
known  poem  of  De  Partu  Virfjinis.  San- 
nazzaro's  tomb  is  in  the  chapel  behind  the 
high-altar.  It  was  formerly  a  Carthusian 
monastery,  but  is  now  under  the  manage- 
ment of  the  Museo  Nazionala,  and  is  shown 
daily  from  9  to  5 ;  fee,  1  franc  each  person. 
The  museum  consists  of  nine  rooms,  con- 
taining crystal,  majolicas,  paintings,  and 
frescoes.  The  cloisters  are  adorned  with 
numerous  saints.  The  view  from  the  gar- 
den is  magnificent. 

Adjoining  S.  Martino  is  the  Castel  Sanf 
Elmo,  erected  by  Robert  the  Wise  in  1343. 
It  was  changed  to  its  present  style  by 
Don  Pedro  de  Toledo  in  1641.  Its  walls 
and  fosses  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock,  its 
great  cistern  and  subterranean  passages, 
the  numerous  historical  incidents  of  love 
and  daring,  all  tend  to  render  it  an  object 
of  great  interest  to  the  visitor.  As  a  fort 
it  is  dismantled,  but  it  is  used  as  a  military 
prison.  Visitors  are  not  admitted  without 
a  permit  from  the  commandant  in  the  city. 
The  church  of  SS.  Apostoli  is  rich  in 
frescoes  and  decorations.  Over  the  door  is 
the  large  fresco  of  the  Pool  of  Bethesda. 
Beneath  the  church  is  a  cemetery  contain- 
ing the  tomb  of  Marini  the  poet.  Here, 
also,  many  of  the  nobility  are  buried.  A 
878 


strange  scene  occurred  in  former  times  on 
the  day  following  that  of  All  Saints.  "The 
bodies  of  the  deceased  members  of  a  con- 
fraternitk  who  subscribed  for  the  privi- 
lege of  being  buried  in  a  peculiar  kind  of 
earth  which  prevents  decomposition  were 
disinterred  on  that  day,  and  exposed  to 
public  view  in  the  dresses  which  the}-  wore 
when  living.  On  this  occasion  the  ceme- 
tery was  decorated  with  flowers  and  ever- 
greens ;  the  bodies  were  decked  out  in  all 
their  finery,  with  flowers  in  their  hands ; 
and  a  long  inscription  over  each  corpse 
recorded  the  name,  age,  and  particulars  of 
death.  The  present  Archbishop  of  Naples 
put  an  end  to  this  disgusting  exhibition 
some  3'ears  ago." 

Naples  has  two  cemeteries.  The  Campo 
Santo  Vecchio  consists  of  365  cells.  One 
of  these  cells  is  opened  every  morning  in 
rotation,  and  receives  all  the  dead  bodies 
of  the  day  previous,  which  are  tumbled  in 
pell-mell,  and.  when  this  is  finished,  it  is 
closed  up  again  for  a  year.  The  next 
morning  another  is  opened,  and  so  on 
throughout  the  year.  The  Campo  Santo 
Nuovo  is  quite  prettily  laid  out,  and  the 
interments  take  place  with  more  respect 
and  feeling.  As  a  general  thing,  the  Ne- 
apolitans entertain  great  indifference  as  to 
the  style  and  manner  of  their  burial. 

The  Palaces  have  but  little  pretension 
to  purity  of  architecture.  Among  the 
finest  is  the  Palazzo  Rea'e,  at  the  extrem- 
ity of  the  Strada  di  Toledo.  It  is  a  vast 
building,  three  stories  high,  with  four  in- 
terior courts.  In  a  small  room  stands  a 
statue  of  Italy,  erected  in  18(54  to  commem- 
orate the  plebiscite  which  gave  the  king- 
dom of  Naples  to  Victor  Emmanuel.  The 
interior  is  splendidly  fitted  up,  and  has 
some  good  paintings.  The  throne-room  is 
very  magnificent.  To  obtain  admittance, 
i  aPP'v  to  the  porter ;  he  will  conduct  the 
visitor  to  the  intendant  (fee  to  the  porter), 
who  will  issue  permits  not  only  for  the  Pa- 
lazzo Reale,  but  also  for  Caserta  Capodi- 
j  monto,  Favorita,  Quisi^ana,  and  the  Garden 
!  of  Astroni.  Cards  of  admission,  which  are 
good  for  a  party  of  six,  are  issued  gratis, 
but  the  person  showing  the  palace  expects 
a  fee  of  one  or  two  francs. 

Naples  has  three  Libraries  which  are 
open  to  the  public  :  the  Bib'ioteca  Borboni- 
ci,  founded  in  1780  ;  open  daily  (Sundays 
excepted)  from  8  A.M.  to  2  P.M.  In  this 


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NAPLES. 


[ITALY.] 


NAPLKS. 


collection  is  the  first  book  printed  in  Na-  ' 
pies.  Biblioteca  Brancuccitina,  the  oldest 
library  in  the  city,  was  founded  in  I<i7."> 
by  Cardinal  Francoco  Mario  Urancaccio. 
Bibliotect  dell'  University  contains  a  series 
of  works  by  the  early  printers  of  Naples. 
Biblioteca  de1  Girolomini.  —  Among  its 
MSS.  is  the  celebrated  Seneca  of  the 
14th  century,  with  a  fine  miniature  of 
Ziiigaro. 

By  far  the  most  important  and  interest- 
ing building  to  visit  in  Naples  is  the  ex- 
tensive and  celebrated  Museu  Xazioiitile, 
formerly  Borbonico.  Open  to  the  public 
daily  from  9  to  3 ;  Sunday  and  Thursday 
gratis;  other  days  1  franc;  fees  forbidden. 
Tlic  name  of  this  building  was  ascribed  to  ! 
it  by  Ferdinand  I.  in  1*1('>.  A  great  deal  j 
ol  time  can  l>e  spent  most  agreeably  in  vis- 
iting this  interesting  institution,  witii  its 
vast  number  of  apartments  richly  stored 
•with  relics  of  ancient  art.  It  has  become 
the  general  depot  of  all  the  riches  recov- 
ered from  the  buried  ancient  cities  of  Pom- 
peii and  Herculaneuni,  and  also  other  lo- 
calities of  Naples  and  of  Sicily. 

The  principal  objects  of  interest  on  en-  j 
tering  the  Vestibule  are  a  colossal  statue 
of  Alex  inder  Severus,  Flora,  Genius  of 
Rome,  and  a  Melpomene  taken  from  the 
theatre  of  Pompey  at  Home.  On  the  right 
of  the  vestibule  is  the  entrance  to  the  col- 
lection of  ancient  frescoes  found  at  Pom- 
peii and  Herculaneum,  containing  more 
than  1600  objects  of  ancient  art.  Some 
of  the  subjects  are  beautifully  portrayed. 
The  most  important  are  as  follows :  The 
Sacrifice  oflphiyenia,  representing  her  be- 
ing borne  to  the  altar  and  pleading  to  her 
father, who  turns  away  to  hide  his  grief: 
the  figure  of  Diana  is  seen  in  the  clouds, 
and  the  hind  who  was  to  supply  the  place 
of  the  victim  ;  Hercules  killing  the  Xemeim 
Lion;  A  Love  Bargain;  Achilles  delivering 
Jiriseis  to  the  Heralds  of  Agamemnon;  the 
Danzatrice,  or  dancing-girls,  remarkable 
for  their  graceful  positions  and  singular 
costumes  ;  Medea  contemplating  the  Murder 
of  her  Children  white  they  are  at  Play ;  Ma- 
siiiissa  and  Sophonisbn,  the  latter  holding 
the  cup  of  poison  which  the  former  is  in- 
ducing her  to  take  to  save  her  from  being 
carried  in  triumph  to  Rome ;  The  Thnt 
Grace*  :  The  Marriage  of&uochtta  untl .  1 H. 
adne ;  CAirtm  touching  A  chUle*  hi  play  upon 
the  Lyrs ;  Priam  and  Caatandra  before  the 


Statue  of  Apollo ;    Telephus  nursed  by  the 
lliml ;  Tlic-feiis  killing  the  Minotaur. 

Collection  II.,  Mosaics,  Mural  Inscrip- 
tions, and  Fresco  Ornaments.  Among  the 
mosaics  are  the  following:  Aerates  riding 
on  a  Tiger,  with  a  vase  in  his  hand;  Cat 
d  riiiirin;/  a  Quail;  .1  N'/ 'fn  or  Harpy  ;  Cho~ 
ragium,  or  actors  r  hearsing,  nnd  being  in- 
structed by  Choragvs;  Comic  scene  —  two 
women,  man,  anil  a  lw>/.  playing  diff<-> 
strwnunts ;  A  J'ar<  m<  >,t  lit  //lark  mosaic,  rep- 
r<  stating  the  Higns  of  the  Zodiac  and  the 
Rape  of  Europa.  The  frescoes  in  this 
apartment  arc  very  good.  The  mural  in- 
scriptions are  roughly  written  upon  the 
walls. 

Collection  III.,  Gallery  of  Egyptian  An- 
tiquities: Statue  of  Serapis  sitting  on  his 
throne,  with  his  right  hand  upon  the  head 
nf  Cerberus;  a  portion  of  a  black  granite 
sarcophagus  covered  with  hieroglyphics ; 
Vases  of  Oriental  alabaster;  His  of  white 
marble,  with  neck,  head,  and  feet  of  bronze. 

Collection  of  Ancient  Sculpture.  —  This 
collection  occupies  three  large  galleries, 
called  porticoes,  and  several  smaller  ones, 
called  cabinets. 

First  Portico,  called  "  dei  Miscellanei" — 
Miscellaneous  Objects:  The  Wounded  Clml- 
iator;  A  Wrestler, in  Greek  marble;  A  l><  <i'l 
Warrior;  Bust  of  Cttlius  Caldus. 

Second  Portico,  or  Portico  de1  Ball*: 
Ganymede  and  th'  Eag'e ;  Bacchus  ami  A  m- 
pelvs;  The  Priestess  Kumachia:  Hercules 
and  Ink.  Statue  of  Minerva;  Statue  of 
Marcus  Nonius  Bnlbus  the  elder,  and  one 
of  the  son  ;  a  graceful  and  most  exquisite 
figure,  the  Farnese  Bacchus ;  Bust  of  A  lex- 
ander  the  Great;  Statue  of  Julius  Caesar  m 
military  costume.  A  very  beautiful  piece 
of  Greek  statuary  is  that  of  a  Faun  carry, 
inr/thf  Boy  Bacchus  on  his  Shoulder*. 

Third,  or  Portico  of  the  Emperors. — In 
the  centre  is  the  Statue  of  Agrippina,  wife 
|  of  Gennanicus.  The  colossal  Bust  of  Ju- 
\  lius  Ccesar,  in  Carrara  marble  ;  Bust  of  An- 
toninus Pitts  ;  Statue  of  Marcus  Aureliti.-; 
very  rinely  decorated  with  a  Gorgon's  head 
and  two  griffins ;  a  magnificent  colossal 
£it.tt  <\f  Hndi-ian;  Statue  of  C^liff"!".  re- 
stored l>y  BrunelH,  it  having  been  broken 
into  fragments  by  the  Romans,  who  de- 
termined to  destroy  even- memorial  of  their 
oppression  ;  It  hag,  however,  In  spite  of  all 
their  efforts  to  destroy  it,  lived  on  for  ages, 

Hal1,  of  Jupiter.*- -The  Torso  Fames-.  & 
879 


NAPLES. 


[ITALY.] 


NAPLES. 


magnificent  specimen  of  Grecian  art ;  also 
the  most  lovely  Psyche  in  existence,  deli- 
cate in  form  and  attitude,  and  beautiful  in 
countenance. 

Hall  rf  the  Flora.—  Colossal  Statue,  of 
the  Flor.i  Farm-ne.  a  masterpiece  of  ancient 
sculpture  found  in  the  baths  of  Caracalla 
at  Rome;  colossal  statue,  in  Parian  mar- 
ble, of  the  Farntse  Minerva ;  a  magnificent 
StiUiM  of  Aristides,  found  at  Herculaneum, 
in  the  villa  of  the  Papyri.  In  this  hail  is 
the  celebrated  mosaic  of  the  /)'<;"''  <•/'  !.<<u*. 

Hall  if  Apollo,  or  Colored  Marbles.— 
SlcUite  of  Diana  of  Ephesus,  in  Oriental  al- 
abaster, head,  feet,  and  hands  of  bronze ; 
sitting  statue  of  the  Apollo  Citkarada,  por- 
phyry, with  white  marble  extremities. 

Hall  of  the  Muses. — Here  are  the  statues 
of  the  Muses  found  at  Herculaneum.  The 
great  feature  of  this  hall  is  the  vase  of 
Greek  marble  which  was  found  buried 
among  the  ruins »of  the  ancient  Formiae, 
and  was  removed  to  the  Cathedral  of  Gaeta, 
and  there  used  as  the  baptismal  font.  It 
is  covered  with  bas-reliefs  representing  the 
birth  of  Bacchus,  and  has  been  alluded  to 
by  many  eminent  writers. 

Hull  nj'A  lias,  with  the  busts  and  statues 
of  many  illustrious  men,  such  as  Herodo- 
tus, Homer,  Cicero,  Demosthenes,  and  a 
Statve  of  Atlas,  kneeling  and  supporting  a 
globe. 

Cabinet  of  the  Venus  Callipyge.  —  This 
hall  is  devoted  exclusively  to  the  Venuses. 
The  principal  statue  is  the  Venus  Callipyge, 
discovered  in  the  Golden  House  of  Nero. 
A  feeling  of  extreme  delicacy  seems  to 
prevail  in  the  management  of  the  museum, 
as  nearly  all  the  naked  figures  which  were 
scattered  around  in  the  different  halls  have 
been  removed  to  this  one,  which  was  for- 
merly closed  to  the  visitor. 

Collection  of  Inscriptions,  or  the  Museo 
Epigrafico,  the  Toro,  and  the  Erco'e  Farnese. 
— On  entering  we  find  two  cipolin  columns, 
with  Greek  inscriptions,  discovered  in  the 
villa  of  Herodes  Atticus,  on  the  Via  Ap- 
pia.  near  Home.  The  Museo  F.pigmfico 
contains  monuments  from  Pompeii,  Hercu- 
laneum, Cumae,  Stabiae,  etc.,  amounting  to 
about  ]  600.  The  Farnese  Hercules  and  the 
Toro  Farnese  are  the  most  attractive  ob- 
jects here. 

The  Gallery  of  Bronze  Slatu's,  the  finest 
collection  in  the  world ;  among  the  most 
interesting  of  which  are  The  Sleeping  Faun  ; 
880 


Mercury  in  Repose ;  The  Dancing  Fntin,  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  specimens  of  bronze 
discovered  at  Pompeii ;  a  most  exquisite 
statue  of  Venus  Anadyomene ;  The  Drunken 
Faun,  and  many  fine  busts.  The  greatest 
curiosity  is  a  bronze  water-cock,  contain- 
ing water  which  has  been  hermetically 
sealed  for  18  centuries. 

The  Collection  of  Ancient  Clans,  contain- 
ing 4000  specimens,  is  verv  interesting ; 
also  the  collection  of  Terra-cotta  \Vare. 

Another  apartment  well  worthy  of  ob- 
servation is  that  containing  the  gold  and 
silver  ornaments,  vase?,  and  gems. 

The  Secret  Cabinet,  which  was  formerly 
closed  to  all  visitors,  is  now  open  to  gen- 
tlemen. No  lady  can  enter  the  room,  nor 
would  she  want  to  if  she  know  the  contents. 

The  gallery  is  divided  into  two  sections, 
situated  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  upper 
story  of  the  museum.  In  the  first  saloon, 
notice  Masaniello  smoking  his  Pipe,  by 
Micco  Spadaro ;  the  Place  du  Mercatello. 
at  Naples,  during  the  plague  which  visit- 
ed this  city  in  165G :  the  dying  and  dead 
cover  the  ground  ;  the  prefet  of  the  city. 
mounted  on  horseback,  surrounded  by  a 
numerous  cortege,  is  issuing  orders,  while 
consternation,  horror,  and  despair  arc  visi- 
ble in  every  countenance.  Here  is  also 
another  splendid  historical  picture  by  the 
same  artist  (Micco  Spadaro),  viz.,  The  Rev- 
olution in  Naples  in  the  year  1647.  There 
are  different  scenes  of  the  same  subject : 
lirst  we  see  Masaniello.  in  the  costume  of 
the  Lazaroni,  with  a  crucifix  in  his  hand, 
exciting  the  people  to  revolt ;  next,  on  the 
pedestal  where  formerly  stood  the  statue 
of  the  viceroy,  are  two  rows  of  heads  be- 
longing to  the  noble  victims  of  the  revolt- 
era  ;  again  we  see  Masaniello,  dressed  in 
splendid  costume,  and  mounted  on  a  mag- 
nificent white  charger,  at  the  head  of  a  nu- 
merous suite — a  multitude  press  toward 
him,  greeting  him  with  noisy  acclamation. 
The  next  picture  by  the  same  author  is  a 
view  of  the  Place  du  Mercato  one  year  later 
(1648).  The  municipal  authorities  are  pre- 
senting the  keys  of  the  city  to  Don  John 
of  Austria,  who,  seated  on  horseback,  sur- 
rounded by  the  Archbishop  of  Naples  and 
other  high  dignitaries,  has  just  made  a  tri- 
umphal entry  into  the  city.  The  heads  of 
the  decapitated  nobles  on  the  pedestal  have 
been  replaced  by  those  of  the  conspirators. 
Notice  next  Semiramis  defending  Baby- 


NAPLES. 


[ITALY.] 


NAPLES. 


Ion  :  this  is  considered  a  very  fine  produc- 
tion, by  Lvca  Giordano. 

In  the  second  saloon  the  principal  gems 
are  Jesus  deputing  \vith  the  Doctors  in  the 
Temple,  and  the  1'arablc  of  the  Mote,  both 
by  the  painter,  poet,  actor,  and  musician. 
Snlrnt  ir  It  <.<//.  a  native  of  Naples,  and  the 
only  two  of  his  works  that  exist  in  his  na- 
tive citv.  He  became  embroiled  in  the 
M,i<  miello  revolt,  as  did  most  of  the  artists 
•f  Naples,  and  was  obliged  to  flee  from  the 
city.  Nos.  131  and  133,  by  Luca  Giordano, 
are  considered  two  of  his  masterpieces. 
The  first  is  the  Saviour  recommending  the 
Pharisees  to  pay  the  tribute  to  Csesar. 

In  the  saloon  of  Chefs-d'oeuvre  observe 
first  the  "  Madonna  del  Coniglio,"  or 
"  Zingarella, ' '  by  Correggio.  The  Virgin  is 
asleep,  holding  the  infant  Saviour  on  her 
knees.  The  Marriage  of  St.  Catharine,  by 
the  same  artist.  The  King  of  Naples  paid 
$20,000  for  this  picture.  The  Nativity,  by 
Al'iert  Diirer.  Observe  the  "  Charite"  of 
Sckidone — a  most  remarkable  work.  The 
Pie'te' :  the  dead  Christ  in  the  arms  of  his 
mother.  This  sublime  subject  is  treated 
by  the  artist  with  much  art  and  philoso- 
phy, and  is  with  reason  considered  one  of 
the  chefs-d'oeuvre  of  this  collection.  The 
Guardian  Angel  protecting  Innocence  from 
the  Evil  Spirit,  and  leading  her  to  Heaven, 
by  Dmenichino.  The  Holy  Family.  "  .Ma- 
donna col  divino  amore,''  by  Raphael.  Por- 
trait of  Philip  II.  of  Spain,  and  Mary  .Mag- 
dalen, by  Titian.  If  the  Danae  by  the 
same  artist  has  been  removed  from  the  Se- 
cret Cubin<;f,  or  if  you  can  obtain  admit- 
tance there,  notice  it  carefully.  It  was 
painted  for  Octave  Farnese  at  Home,  and 
is  considered  one  of  Titian's  finest  works. 

The  Vil/n  \<i~ionale,  formerly  the  Villa 
Reale,  is  one  of  the  principal  and  the  most 
fashionable  promenades  in  Naples.  In  the 
centre  rises  a  statue  of  Giambattista  Vico. 
At  one  end  is  the  Beh-idere,  a  delightful 
spot  to  repose,  and  from  whence  there  is  a 
charming  view  of  the  magnificent  bay. 
Free  concerts  take  place  here  in  the  even- 
ing. The  grounds  are  laid  out  in  the  Ital- 
ian style,  and  decorated  with  statues. 

Near  the  villa  is  the  Aquarium,  opened 
in  1874;  entrance  fee  '2  francs. 

There  is  also  a  Zoolor/ical  Station  here, 
with  a  good  zoological  library. 

At  the  end  of  Strada  di  Capodimonte, 
beyond  the  Strada  Romano  (Toledo),  is  sit- 


uated the  palace  of  Capodimonte,  completed 
in  !>:{!»  by  Ferdinand  II.  It  is  surrounded 
by  gardens,  from  which  there  is  an  admi- 
rable view.  In  addition  to  the  numerous 
pictures  in  the  public  and  private  apart- 
ments, there  is  an  armorv  containing  nu- 
merous objects  of  interest.  Admission  by 
permit  from  the  intendant  of  the  Palazzo 
Reale. 

Higher  up  is  the  Observatory,  founded  in 

!  1812.  It  has  become  of  world-wide  celeb- 
rity, its  present  director  having  discovered 
several  planets.  It  commands  a  magnifi- 
cent prospect  in  every  direction. 

The  University  of  Naples  was  founded  by 
the  Emperor  Frederick  II.  in  1224.  It  was 
the  only  one  in  the  kingdom  of  Naples, 
and  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  Europe. 

The  Protestant  Cemetery  is,  situated  just 
outside  the  Porta  Capuano.  It  contains 
the  tombs  of  numerous  foreigners. 

The  Palazzo  SarJangtloco  formerly  con- 

:  taineda  large  collection  of  antiquities,  now 
in  the  Museum.  The  picture-gallery  has 

!  some  good  pictures,  which  are  shown  on  ap- 
plication to  the  Marchese  Santangeloco. 

The  Catacombs  may  be  visited  on  appli- 
cation to  the  porter  of  the  Poor-house  in 
the  Strada  S.  Gennarello.  Admittance,  1 

!  franc  each  person  ;    a  small  fee  expected. 

:  The  entrance  is  behind  the  church  of  S. 
(lennaro  dei  Poveri,  which  was  founded  in 

I  the  8th  century,  and  contains  some  frescoes 

I  by  Sabbatini.  The  catacombs  are  much 
inferior  to  the  Roman. 

The  principal  Theatre  in  Naples  is  the 
San  Carlo,  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe.  It 
contains  six  rows  of  boxes,  thirty-two  in 
each  row.  It  is  especially  noted  for  its 
Italian  opera(  opera  and  ballet  only).  Boxes, 
first  row,  40  francs  ;  second  row,  50  francs; 
third  row  (corresponding  with  "  family 

;  circle "),  32  francs ;  orchestra  stalls,  8 
francs.  Mercadante,  comedies  and  farces. 
Te  itro  A'aoro,  comic  operas.  Boxes,  tirst 
row,  7  francs ;  second  row,  8  fr.  50  c. 
Fiorentini,  dramas.  Fenice  Gold&ni,  Giar- 
dino  d'/nvento,  and  the  San  Carlino,  where 
•'  Pulcinella"  holds  forth.  Boxes,  C  fr. 

!40c. 

Restaurant-cafe  de  V  Europe. — This  first- 
class  restaurant,  the  best  and  most  fre- 

'  quented  in  Naples,  is  directly  opposite  the 
San  Carlo,  on  the  Place  San  Ferdinando ; 
breakfasts. dinners,  and  late  suppers,  French 
or  Italian,  are  served  in  very  good  style. 
881 


SORREXTO. 


[ITALY.] 


SOBBENTO 


There  is  an  English  Church  erected  in 
the  Strada  S.  Pasquale  on  land  presented 
by  Garibaldi  in  1860  to  the  English  resi- 
dents. Service  on  Sundays  at  11  and  3. 

Unfortunately  for  visitors  to  Naples, 
most  of  the  religions  and  national  festivals 
take  place  during  the  summer  months,  but 
at  Christmas  and  Easter  they  are  numer- 
ous. 


EXCURSIONS  IN  THE  VICINITY  OF  NAPLES  : 

Castellamare,  Sorrento,  Cupri,  Salerno, 
Ptestum,  and  A  malfi. 

Every  traveler  should  take  particular 
interest  in  the  excursions  which  are  to  be 
made  from  Naples.  Perhaps  the  excursion 
to  Cupri  and  Sorrento,  the  birthplace  of 
Tasso,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Italy.  The 
best  plan  for  this  trip  is  to  take  the  railroad 
in  the  morning  to  CtateUaman.  Time,  1 
hour ;  fare.  3  francs.  Hotel  Quisisana 
the  best.  This  town  contains  22,000  in- 
habitants, and  is  built  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Stabiae,  destroyed  in  the  time  of 
the  elder  Pliny,  who  here  lost  his  life.  The 
town  is  a  favorite  resort  of  the  Neapolitans. 

The  grounds  of  the  Casino  Reale,  or 
Quisisana,  are  well  worth  a  visit.  Permis- 
sion from  the  intendant  at  Naples. 

From  Castellamare  to  Sorrento  is  a  de- 
lightful ride.  Two-horse  carriage,  6  francs, 
and  1  franc  pourboire. 

Sorrento  contains  7000  inhabitants.  Ho- 
tels, Tremontano,  La  Sirena,  and  Del  Tasso. 
All  these  houses  have  line  gardens  over- 
looking the  bay,  and  have  private  stairs 
descending  to  the  water  and  bathing- 
houses. 

Visit  the  house  of  Tasso  on  the  sea-shore, 
the  caves  of  Ulysses,  and  other  curiosities ; 
then  take  a  row-boat  for  Capri.  Two  row- 
ers, 8  francs  ;  four  rowers,  15  francs.  To 
Capri  and  Amalfi  two  days ;  four  rowers, 
40  francs.  If  you  have  time,  make  prepa- 
rations to  spend  two  days  at  the  island,  as 
a  calm  day  is  necessary  for  visiting  the 
Grotto  of  Nymphs,  consisting  of  the  Green 
and  Blue  grottoes,  the  visitor  to  which  has 
to  lie  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat  while  it  is 
being  pushed  through  an  arch  some  three 
feet  high ;  should  there  be  any  swell,  it 
can  not  be  entered.  The  Blue  Grotto  is 
100  feet  wide  by  150  long.  It  would  be 
difficult  to  describe  its  surpassing  beauty. 
The  time  to  visit  it  is  high  noon,  and  the 
882 


traveler  should  remain  a  full  half-hour  to 
accustom  his  eye  to  its  gorgeous  blue.  The 
Green  Grotto  is  much  inferior  to  the  Blue, 
but  is  still  well  worth  a  visit.  The  island 
of  Capri,  during  the  reign  of  the  Emperor 
Tiberius,  was  the  principal  place  of  resort 
of  that  wicked  prince.  He  here  built 
twelve  palaces  in  honor  of  his  twelve  par- 
ticulardivinities,  and  enriched  it  with  fount- 
ains, baths,  and  aqueducts.  These  were 
destroyed  after  his  death  by  order  of  the 
Senate. 

The  Hotel  du  Louvre  is  finely  situated  at 
the  west  of  the  landing-place  Maiiia  at 
Capri,  and  is  the  best  house  here.  The 
village  of  Capri  is  30  minutes'  walk  or 
donkey-ride  from  the  landing.  For  horse, 
1  fr.  50  c. ;  donkey,  1  franc.  To  the  villa 
Tibero  and  return,  3  francs. 

Travelers,  however  familiar  with  boat- 
ing or  sailing  they  may  be,  should  on  no 
account  make  the  excursion  from  Sorrento 
to  Capri  unaccompanied  by  native  boat- 
men. Along  the  shore  of  the  peninsula 
the  wind  is  continually  shifting,  and  some- 
times comes  down  through  openings  in  the 
mountains  with  such  force  as  almost  to  lift 
the  boat  out  of  the  water. 

There  are  numerous  walks  and  drives  in 
the  vicinity  of  Sorrento.  The  principal  ii 
that  to  Mussa,  about  four  miles  distant. 
This  small  town,  situated  on  a  rock,  con- 
tains the  remains  of  a  Roman  aqueduct. 
Another  is  to  the  suppressed  convent  of 
Desfrto,  now  occupied  as  a  refuge  for  des- 
titute children.  Visitors  are  expected  to 
contribute  something  to  the  funds  of  the 
institution  in  return  for  the  refreshments 
ottered. 

C'amaldoli. — This  ancient  monastery  is 
now  the  country-seat  of  the  Marchese  Gi- 
ussi.  The  views  of  the  setting  sun  from 
the  grounds  of  this  place  are  truly  enchant- 
ing. The  excursion  occupies  about  three 
hours. 

Sorrento  is  a  lovely  summer  residence, 
cool  and  delightful,  and  much  resorted  to 
by  Neapolitans  during  the  bathing  season. 

Salerno  and  Paestum  can  be  reached  by 
carriage  over  the  mountains,  or  by  return- 
ing to  Castellamare  and  taking  the  railway, 
which  is  the  most  direct :  also  by  making 
a  new  start  from  Naples,  which  many  prefer. 

From  Naples  to  Salerno ;  time,  2  h.  15 
m.  :  fare,  6  fr.  15  c. ;  thence  to  P»stum 
in  4  hours  by  carriage ;  but  the  visitor 


E  N  VI  RONS 


CAPR  I 


Harper 


OF       NAPLES 


d-Book. 


P^ESTCM. 


[ITALY.] 


AMALFL 


should  remain  all  night  at  Salerno,  start* 
ing  at  5  A.M.,  which  will  give  him  four 
hours  at  Paestum.  Carriage,  35  or  40 
francs.  Dinner  or  lunch  should  be  taken 
in  the  carriage. 

l'n stum  is  generally  considered,  next  to 
Pompeii,  the  most  interesting  excursion  in 
Southern  Italy.  Excursionists  usually  de- 
vote two  days  to  it,  though  it  nuty  lie 
"  done  '  in  one,  viz.,  start  by  the  first  train 
to  BiiKipuglia,  hire  a  carriage  there  for 
IV.-tum,  and  back  the  same  night  to  Bat- 
tipaglia  in  time  for  the  last  train  to  Naples. 
The  train  leaves  Naples  at  0.40  A.M.,  ar- 
rives at  Battipaglia  at  8.5*1 ;  then  2  h.  30  m. 
to  Paestum ;  3  hours  there,  and  return  in 
time  for  the  5.18  P.M.  train  for  Naples, 
arriving  at  8.50  P.M.  Carriage  ought  to 
be  engaged  by  telegraph  from  Naples. 

If  you  have  plenty  of  time,  remain  the 
first  night  at  Salerno  (Z/ofe/  Vittoritt);  visit 
its  splendid  Cathedral ;  also  the  ruins  of  its 
citadel,  the  scene  where  Boccaccio  weds 
the  page  and  daughter  of  Tancred,  and 
where  he  kills  them  ;  the  birthplace  of  John 
de  Procida,  etc.  From  Salerno  take  car- 
riage to  Pa?stum,  back  again  the  same 
day,  and  return  to  Naples  on  the  third. 

I 'cesium  (in  Greek  Posidowia)  was  found- 
ed by  the  Greeks  in  the  7th  century  B.C., 
and  was  a  very  flourishing  city  in  the  7th, 
Cth,  and  5th  centuries  before  the  Christian 
era,  at  which  time  its  decay  commenced ; 
it  was  then  destroyed  by  the  Saracens,  and 
soon  became  a  Roman  colony.  Its  climate 
was  delicious,  and  its  roses,  which  flour- 
ished twice  a  year,  were  rendered  celebrat- 
ed by  the  poets  of  the  time. 

The  grandeur,  gloom,  and  majesty  of 
the  temples  of  Paestum,  standing  alone  as 
they  do  amid  their  mountain  wilderness, 
similar  to  Baalbec,  without  a  vestige  near 
of  any  jiower  that  could  have  raised  them, 
surpasses  any  thing  of  the  kind  on  earth. 
The  principal  ruins  are  the  Basilica,  the 
Temple  of  Neptune,  the  Amphitheatre,  the 
Temple  of  Vesta,  and  the  Forum. 

Its  ancient  walls  were  three  miles  in 
circumference.  Outside  the  gate  entered 
in  coming  from  Salerno  was  a  street  of 
tombs,  from  which  numerous  relics  have 
been  excavated,  and  are  now  in  the  Museum 
at  Naples. 

The  length  of  the  Temple  of  Neptune  is 
195  feet;  breadth,  79  feet;  height  of  col- 
umns, 29  feet;  diameter  at  their  base,  7 


feet  6  inches.  There  are  in  all  36  columns. 
The  length  of  the  cella  is  90  feet ;  breadth, 
43  feet  4  inches.  Not  a  single  column  is 
wanting.  The  temple  was  roofless  where 
the  image  stood. 

The  Basilica's  length,  measuring  from 
the  upper  step,  is  179  feet  10  inches ; 
breadth,  80  feet;  height  of  columns,  21 
feet.  The  peristyle  of  the  Basilica  has  50 
columns.  The  interior  was  divided  by  a 
row  of  columns,  three  of  which  only  re- 
main :  this  fact  leads  many  to  suppose  that 
it  was  not  a  Basilica,  but  a  temple  with  two 
divinities. 

The  Temp'e  of  Vesta  has  a  peristyle  of 
34  columns,  six  at  each  end  and  eleven  on 
the  sides  :  their  height  is  20  feet  4  inches. 
The  length  of  the  temple  is  108  feet; 
breadth,  47  feet  7  inches ;  the  architrave 
alone  remains  of  the  entablature. 

There  are  the  ruins  of  three  distinct 
buildings  between  the  temple  of  Neptune 
and  Vesta — an  amphitheatre,  circus,  and 
Roman  temple. 

An  English  gentleman  and  his  wife,  of 
the  name  of  Hunt,  were  murdered  on  their 
way  to  Paestum  in  1824  by  eighteen  ban- 
dits, seventeen  of  whom  were  executed  for 
the  crime.  Mrs.  Hunt  foolishly  displayed 
her  valuable  jewelry  at  the  inn  where  she 
passed  the  night.  The  eighteenth  murder- 
er confessed  the  details  on  his  death-bed. 

There  is  no  fixed  price  for  carriages — 
some  persons  make  bargains  for  one  half 
what  others  do  ;  so  do  some  couriers. 

Amnlfi  may  be  reached  by  carriage  in 
1  h.  30  in.  from  Salerno.  The  road  is  a 
magnificent  piece  of  engineering,  tunneled 
through  the  solid  rock,  supported  by  im- 
mense viaducts,  sometimes  five  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea-level.  The  small  towns 
of  Jfaiort,  Minori,  and  Atrani  are  passed. 
Between  this  last  and  Amalfi,  situated  on 
a  rocky  height,  are  the  ruins  of  the  Castle 
of  Pontonf. 

Amalfi  (hotel,  Dei  Cappuccinf).  This 
small  but  ancient  town  is  finely  situated 
at  the  entrance  to  a  deep  valley,  surrounded 
by  picturesque  crags  and  mountains.  Al- 
though of  small  importance,  and  containing 
only  70  ;0  inhabitants,  it  was  in  the  llth 
and  li'th  <•(  muries  a  city  of  considerable 
importance,  with  00,000  inhabitants.  It 
waged  w;ir  against  the  Pisans,  and  even 
disputed  with  the  Norman  sovereigns  of 
Naples. 


RAVELLO. 


[ITALY.] 


VESUVIUS. 


The  Cathedral  of  Amalfi  is  well  worth  a 
visit.  Its  bronze  doors  are  very  fine,  and 
date  from  the  llth  century. 

The  Capuchin  Monastery,  built  in  the 
hollow  of  a  rock  four  hundred  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  was  founded  in  1212. 
It  is  now  used  as  a  naval  academy. 

A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  old  town 
of 

Ravelin,  the  view  from  which  is  superb. 
Time,  1  hour  by  donkey  (2  fr.).  The  town, 
which  at  one  time  contained  25,000  in- 
habitants, is  now  reduced  to  1500. 

From  Amalli  to  Capri  and  Sorrento, 
boat  with  four  oars,  40  francs. 

The  excursions  to  Herculaneum,  Pompeii, 
and  Vesuvius  can  all  be  made  on  the  same 
day,  but  it  requires  a  very  early  start,  and 
should  not  be  attempted  by  ladies  or  deli- 
cate persons,  and  only  when  much  pressed 
for  time  or  when  Vesuvius  is  in  a  state  of 
eruption.  Take  the  train  direct  to  Pom- 
peii ;  spend  the  morning  there ;  lunch  at 
the  inn  near  Diomede's  house ;  return  to 
Herculaneum ;  from  there  take  horses  for 
Vesuvius.  Or  visit  Herculaneum,  thence 
to  Resina,  where  horses  are  taken  to  Ve- 
suvius, leaving  Pompeii  for  another  day. 


VESUVIUS. 

To  visit  Vesuvius  the  traveler  was  for- 
merly obliged  to  take  a  carriage  or  go  on 
horseback  to  the  Hermitage;  thence  to 
scale  the  cone  on  foot  or  take  portantines 
(chaises-a-porteurs)  to  the  summit.  There 
884 


is  now  a  mountain  railway.     The  fare  is 
high. 

Vesuvius,  the  most  active  volcano  in  the 
•world,  rises  in  the  midst  of  the  plain  of 
Campania,  and  is  surrounded  on  the  north 
and  east  by  the  mountains  of  Apennine 
limestone ;  it  is  open  to  the  plain  of  Na- 
ples on  the  west,  and  on  the  south  ii 
is  reached  by  the  sea.  Including  Somnvi 
on  its  inland  side,  it  consists  of  a  circular 
mass  which  rises  to  the  height  of  about 
3800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  the 
heightof  the  eruptive  cone  of  Vesuvius  has 
been  reduced  dowji  to  3400  feet  within  the 
past  few  years.  A  celebrated  author  says  : 

"To  gain  a  distinct  conception  of  the 
aspect  of  the  hill,  shape  out  for  yourself, 
br  a  mental  effort,  the  following  objects : 
first,  a  sloping  plain  three  miles  long  and 
three  miles  broad,  stretching  up  with  a 
pretty  rapid  ascent  to  an  elevation  of  more 
than  2000  feet,  very  rugged  in  the  surface, 
and  covered  every  where  with  black  burnt 
stones  like  the  scoria?  of  an  iron  furnace ; 
second,  at  the  head  of  this  plain,  and  tower- 
ing over  it,  a  cone  of  the  same  black  burnt 
stones,  with  sides  remarkably  straight  and 
uniform,  shooting  up  in  the  blue  sky  to 
a  farther  elevation  of  1500  feet;  third, 
behind  this  cone  a  lofty  circular  precipice 
(the  front  of  Monte  Somma),  1400  feet  high 
and  three  miles  long,  standing  like  a  vast 
wall,  and  of  the  same  burnt  appearance ; 
fourth,  at  the  lower  side  of  the  plain,  be- 
tween the  burnt  ground  and  the  sea,  a 
belt  of  land  two  miles  broad,  laid  out  in 
vineyards,  but  intersected  every  one  or  two 
furlongs  by  terraces  of  the  same  black 
calcined  matter,  projecting  like  offshoots 
from  the  central  mass,  and  now  and  then 
unveiling  old  currents  of  lava  from  beneath 
them.  Very  little  lava  is  visible  ;  but  the 
course  of  the  different  currents  is  traced  by 
the  long  terraces  of  scoriae  which  cover  and 
flank  them." 

Vesuvius  is  the  representative  of  a  more 
ancient  and  much  larger  volcano,  of  which 
Monte  Sorama  is  a  remnant.  A  great  por- 
tion of  the  cone  of  the  original  Vesuvius 
was  blown  up  during  the  first  recorded 
explosion.  The  Atrio  dei  Cavalli,  or  "  Ves- 
tibule of  Horses,'1  so  called  from  the  f:n-t 
of  visitors  here  being  obliged  to  leave  their 
horses  and  make  the  ascent  on  foot,  forms 
a  circular  ring  at  the  base,  dividing  Ve- 
suvius from  Somma.  It  is  said  more 


MEDITERRAN  EAN 


Harper's 


ITS   COASTS 


Book 


VK3TJVICS. 


[ITALY.] 


VESDVIUS. 


minerals  have  been  found  in  the  vicinity 
of  Vesuvius  than  in  any  other  spot  of  the 
same  dimensions  on  the  surface  of  the 
globe:  something  like  82  different 
are  known  to  have  been  discovered.  Sum 
m:i  is  composed  of  strabi  of  fragmentary 
and  stony  matter  intermixed,  but  the  stony 
matter  of  Vesuvius  consists  of  lava  form- 
ing long  narrow  bands  on  the  surface  of 
the  hill.  There  are  may  plants  found  in 
this  region  which  are  unknown  elsewhere, 
Embracing  the  Knphnrln-acea',  and  others. 
The  greater  portion  of  the  mountain  pre- 
sents a  bare  and  rugged  appearance,  but 
around  the  base  it  is  rather  a  fertile  and  pic- 
turesque region,  studded  with  plantations, 
villages,  and  white  country  houses.  The 
population  is  reckoned  at  about  5000  per- 
sons to  a  square  league.  The  ground  is  in 
a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  yields  three 
crops  a  year.  It  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Ve- 
suvius that  the  Lacryma  Christi  is  grown. 
This  luscious  vine  is  scarcely  known  in 
reality,  there  being  but  a  small  production 
of  it,  and  that  reserved  for  the  royal  cel- 
lars. The  Vino  Greco  is  also  justly  cele- 
brated, as  well  as  the  Muscadine  vines. 

The  following  account  of  Vesuvius  gives 
an  interesting  and  correct  idea  of  its  forma- 
tion and  appearance,  the  result  of  an  ascent 
made  in  1818  by  M.  Simond.  "We  left 
Portici,  ascending  gradual!}'  among  culti- 
vated fields  and  vineyards,  occasionally 
traversed  by  streams  of  old  lava,  black, 
rough,  and  sterile ;  and  in  1 J-  hours  reached 
the  Hermitage,  a  convent  where  a  few 
monks  keep  a  sort  of  an  inn  for  the  visit- 
ors of  Vesuvius.  Farther  up  we  traversed 
large  fields  of  lava,  extremely  rough;  and 
at  the  base  of  the  cone  prepared  for  thu 
ascent  over  a  heap  of  crumbling  ashes 
and  cinders,  extremely  steep,  of  course,  as 
it  formed  an  angle  of  45°.  In  about  one 
hour,  stoppages  included,  we  found  our- 
selves on  extremely  hot  ground,  intolerable 
to  the  hand,  and  fatal  to  the  soles  of  our 
>li'ie<;  it  teemed  with  hot  vapors,  and 
was  covered  with  beautiful  efflorescences 
of  sulphur.  Smoke  issued  from  numerous 
crevices,  at  the  entrance  of  which  a  piece 
of  paper  or  a  stick  took  fire  in  a  few 
seconds  ;  and  what  seems  strange,  a  stone 
thrown  into  one  of  these  openings  increased 
the  smoke  at  all  the  others.  Stooping 
low,  we  could  hear  a  noise  like  that  of  a 
liquid  boiling.  The  hard  but  thin  crust 


upon  which  we  stood  seemed  to  have 
settled  down  in  some  places ;  u  woeful  in- 
dication of  its  hollow  state.  After  a  few 
steps  more  we  came  to  the  edge  of  a  pro- 
digious hole  on  the  very  summit  of  the 
cone,  being  the  crater  formed  by  the  last 
eruption  four  months  previously.  This 
hole  was  not  the  tremendous  thing  we  ex- 
pected— a  fathomless  abyss,  fiery  and  black, 
with  lava  boiling  at  the  bottom — but  a 
slope  of  gray  ashes  and  cinders,  much  like 
that  by  which  we  had  ascended,  or  scarcely 
more  precipitous,  and  ending  at  the  depth 
of  40U  or  500  feet,  in  a  level  place,  with 
gray  ashes  like  the  rest."  There  have  been 
45  known  eruptions  since  the  destruction 
of  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii.  Of  those 
which  occurred  previous  to  the  12th  cen- 
tury we  have  but  little  account.  Between 
the  years  1138  and  1631  but  two  occurred. 
During  this  interval,  however,  ^Etna  was 
in  an  active  state,  and  the  formation  of 
Monte  Nuovo  took  place  during  the  erup- 
tion which  occurred  in  1G31 ;  seven  streams 
of  lava  v;ere  issued  from  the  centre.  When 
in  action,  Vesuvius  presents  a  magnificent 
spectacle.  In  the  eruption  of  1777  jets  of 
liquid  lava  were  thrown  up  to  the  height  of 
10,000  feet,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a 
column  of  fire,  and  in  1793  millions  of  red- 
hot  stones  were  shot  into  the  air,  and  then 
fell,  covering  nearly  half  the  cone  with  lire. 
Down  to  the  reign  of  Titus  Vespasian  there 
is  no  evidence  of  any  volcanic  activity, 
but  in  the  first  year  of  his  reign  (A.D.  79) 
it  burst  forth  with  destructive  fury,  over- 
whelming the  flourishing  cities  of  Hercu- 
laneum and  Pompeii,  all  traces  of  which 
were  lost  for  upward  of  1COO  years,  and 
were  only  accidentally  discovered  during 
the  last  century.  It  was  at  this  time  the 
elder  Pliny  lost  his  life,  and  the  event  has 
been  described  by  Pliny  the  younger,  who 
was  witness  to  the  scene.  An  eruption 
took  place  in  1858,  on  which  occasion  the 
crater  sank  200  feet,  and  another  in  1862, 
which  caused  an  immense  loss  of  life  and 
property.  In  1865  there  was  another 
eruption,  also  in  1868.  There  was  a  slight 
one  in  1871.  In  April,  1872,  a  new  crater 
was  opened,  the  lava  bursting  forth  with 
such  velocity  near  Atrio  (lei  C'irnl'i  that 
man}-  spectators  who  had  assembled  to 
witness  the  spectacle  were  destroyed. 
Part  of  the  towns  of  Masso  and  St.  Stbas- 
tiano  were  destroyed.  The  stream  of  lava 
885 


HKBCULAXEUM. 


[ITALY.] 


POMPEII. 


was  over  half  a  mile  wide  and  twenty  feet 
deep,  while  red-hot  stones  were  thrown  to 
a  height  of  5000  feet. 

To  visit  Herculaneum,  the  railway  ma}' 
be  taken  to  the  station  Port  id,  which  is 
one  mile  distant  from  the  entrance  to  the 
excavations ;  or  if  visiting  Pompeii  by  car- 
riage from  Naples,  which  many  do  if  the 
weather  is  not  too  hot,  and  after  a  rain, 
otherwise  the  roads  are  very  dusty  (car- 
riage 25  fr.),  take  Herculaneum  on  the 
way. 

1 1  <  rcul  ineum. — In  A.D.  79  this  city  was 
destroyed  by  torrents  of  volcanic  mud, 
upon  which,  in  subsequent  eruptions,  ashes 
and  streams  of  lava  fell  to  a  depth  varying 
from  70  to  110  feet :  no  great  loss  of  life  re- 
sulted from  the  destruction  of  this  city.  It 
is  said  by  an  eminent  historian  to  have 
been  built  on  elevated  ground  between  two 
rivers,  thereby  rendering  the  atmosphere 
perfectly  healthy.  Some  quite  distinguish- 
ed Romans  resided  in  the  city  and  suburbs. 
Servilia,  mother  of  Brutus,  had  a  villa, 
which  was  given  to  her  by  Julius  Caesar; 
Agrippina,  niece  of  Tiberius,  was  confined 
by  that  tyrant  in  another  villa,  which  was 
afterward  destroyed  by  her  son  Caligula. 
The  only  object  here  which  would  be  view- 
ed with  much  interest  by  the  traveler  is 
the  remains  of  the  ancient  theatre,  which 
is  supposed  to  have  accommodated  10,000 
persons.  Some  idea  may  here  be  obtain- 
ed of  the  architecture  and  general  arrange- 
ment of  a  Roman  theatre.  Numisius,  son 
of  Publius,  was  the  architect,  and  the  build- 
ing was  erected  at  the  expense  of  Lucius 
Annius  Mammianus  Rufus,  judge  and  cen- 
sor. Although  the  excavations  are  carried 
on  in  rather  a  limited  manner,  Hercula- 
neum has  furnished  the  Museum  at  Naples 
with  some  of  its  most  valuable  treasures 
of  antiquity- — statues,  busts,  mural  in- 
scriptions, utensils,  etc. ;  and  here  the  cele- 
brated papyrus  library  of  3000  rolls  was 
discovered. 

The  entrance  fee  to  the  theatre  is  2  fr., 
which  entitles  the  visitor  to  a  guide.  An 
additional  half-franc  admits  him  to  a  street 
newlj'  excavated,  where  the  construction 
of  the  houses  may  be  examined ;  they 
much  resemble  those  of  Pompeii. 


886 


THE  RUINS  OF  POMPEII. 

Railway,  four  trains  daily,  in  50  minutes ; 
fare,  first  class,  2  fr.  75  c.  ;  second  class, 
1  fr.  90  c.  Admission  daily,  2  fr.  fee  ;  on 
Sunday  gratis.  On  week-days  you  are 
compelled  to  have  a  guide,  which  is  included 
in  the  2  fr.  On  Sunday  you  can  not  have 
one  at  any  price.  A  plan  which  is  most 
advisable,  if  you  can  spare  the  time,  is  to  go 
on  a  week-day  with  a  guide,  and  ramble 
around  on  a  Sunday  without  one.  The 
official  guide  is  not  allowed  to  accept  a 
fee  ;  and  we  must  here  do  them  the  justice 
to  say  that  they  refuse  it  when  ottered. 
You  can  however,  if  you  wish,  purchase 
their  photographs. 

The  early  history  of  Pompeii  is  involved 
in  obscurity,  but  the  supposition  is  that  it 
was  settled  by  Osci  and  Pclasgi  prior  to 
the  establishment  on  this  coast  of  the 
Greek  colonies  from  Eubcea.  It  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Sainnites  about  the  year 
440  B.C.,  and  was  taken  by  the  Romans 
eighty  years  afterward ;  during  the  Social 
War  it  revolted  with  the  other  Campanian 
towns,  and  but  littlu  more  was  known  re- 
specting it  until  it  was  visited  by  an  earth- 
quake A.U.  63,  which  occasioned  gre.it  de- 
struction ;  it  was  afterward  overwhelmed 
in  79  by  the  eruption  of  Vesuvius,  and  con- 
tinued to  be  buried  under  the  ashes  and 
other  volcanic  matter  for  about  1669  years. 
Notwithstanding  that  the  celebrated  archi- 
tect and  engineer,  Domenico  Fontana,  who 
was  employed  in  constructing  an  aqueduct 
to  convey  water  to  Torre,  fell  in  with  the 
ruins  of  the  city,  no  particular  attention 
was  paid  to  the  discovery  until  1748,  when 
the  peasants  were  employed  in  cutting  a 
ditch,  since  which  time  it  has  continued  to 
be  an  object  of  great  interest,  and  since 
1755  the  progress  of  excavation  has  been 
pretty  constantly  prosecuted. 

Pompeii  has  the  reputation  of  being 
"  the  most  wonderful  of  the  antiquities  of 
Italv.  and  one  which  it  is  said  never  dis- 
appoints the  traveler  who  is  at  all  acquaint- 
ed with  the  history  of  ancient  Rome.  The 
impression  which  it  gives  of  the  actual 
presence  of  a  Roman  town,  in  all  the  cir- 
cumstantial reality  of  its  existence  2000 
years  ago,  is  so  vivid  and  intense  that  it 
requires  but  a  small  effort  of  the  imagina- 
tion to  place  yourself  among  the  multitudes 


PO  IV 


J.j  Qu 

L'G  (lisa  tti-KVuruiyu 
_'"  /',«/««.  i 

.'a  /•;/'.-•«  « i,-,.!,;,,!,; 

1'9  />'«//<•{/»  iti  ^a/will- 


E 


E7'<  rnfiin  di  .  fAvcuna 
CKaZeitfietan 
/,„,/„„,<<  If-nftf 
Gi  tLuilin, 

6;>  (tl.fil  dl  Cfui 
W  Vn'/'ttnah 
07  ^«.'.<  </<•/  (iv 
(if.  I  -<,•„,/,;  ft>< 


<;  liri 


72  r«..» 
-3  7«V/ 
T*  Ctir 
1'3  faru> 


Isiac 


qolare 

7G  Tmyn'o  <ii  '  tfrcole 
"  Teatrv  Iraattv 
"8  •  mtcc 

79  Yrrnfiia  rft  Kst-ulaino 

80  Oiuuiu-TV  dc.  WcUiti 

81  AnfHfatn> 

82  (iua  dei  rnarmi<Tinf>vxu>.**yia 

83  /.  Hfxuvt 


:85  GvaiirlPrtM  lifllaftntana  nutt 
186  J<armat~rtt  osju 


id- bo  ok 


POMPEII. 


[ITALY.] 


POMPEII. 


which  once  thronged  its  streets  and  thea- 
tres, and  occupied  its  now  voiceless  cham- 
bers. The  expression  so  often  u>ed,  that 
you  expect  to  see  the  inhabitants  walk  out 
of  their  houses  to  salute  3-0 u,  is  scarcely 
a  figure  of  speech.  Many  things,  in  fact, 
concur  to  foster  the  illusion.  You  M>C  a 
street  before  you  carefully  paved  and  well- 
worn,  and  bordered  with  trotloirs  in  good 
preservation,  as  if  it  had  been  in  use  on 
the  previous  day.  The  houses  generally 
extend  in  unbroken  lines,  and  even  the  di- 
lapidation is,  in  some  measure,  concealed 
l>y  the  small  modern  roofs  placed  over  the 
walls  to  protect  them  from  farther  waste 
by  the  weather.  The  doors  and  windows,  | 
indeed,  are  all  open,  but  so  they  generally 
are  in  the  modern  houses  of  Italy  ;  and  the 
sombre,  brown  tints  of  the  walls  is  not  very 
different  from  what  is  seen  in  the  decayed 
towns  of  the  same  country  at  the  present 
day.  You  turn  to  the  right  and  to  the 
left,  and  wander  from  street  to  street,  and 
still  you  have  the  perfect  image  of  a  town 
before  you,  except  that  no  inhabitants  ap-  ( 
pear,  and  these  you  may  suppose  have  left ; 
a  few  days  before.  We  have  detached 
pulilic  buildings  elsewhere,  but  here  we 
have  a  Roman  forum,  with  all  its  accom-  , 
paninu-nts  of  temples,  porticoes,  curiae,  etc. ; 
not  indeed  perfect,  but  onh'  so  injured  that  j 
tvhat  is  missing  can  be  replaced,  and  what 
is  mutilated  restored.  We  have  also  many 
shops,  with  their  utensils  of  trade  in  them, 
and  about  a  hundred  private  houses  of  all 
descriptions,  from  the  poor  cottage  to  the 
patrician  mansion,  enabling  us  for  the  first 
time  to  obtain  a  distinct  idea  of  the  form 
and  arrangement  of  a  Roman  house,  and 
giving  us,  as  it  were,  a  glimpse  of  the  do- 
mestic life  and  manners  of  the  people. 
The  public  baths  here,  which  were  almo-t 
entire,  have  thrown  new  light  on  the  struc- 
ture of  those  buildings.  Lastly,  the  tout 
tnstmble  of  the  walls,  gates,  streets,  forum, 
houses,  temples,  fountains,  theatres,  asso- 
ciated as  they  are  with  each  other,  give  us  | 
a  conception  of  a  Roman  town  incompara- 
bly more  clear  and  satisfactory  than  any 
number  of  such  objects  scattered  over  dis- 
tant localities  could  have  furnished." 

The  walls  of  the  city  are  nearly  20  feet 
thick,  and  about  as  high,  faced  with  blocks 
of  lava  inside  and  out.    There  are  six  gates, 
and  many  towers  rising  above  the  ram-  ! 
parts,  and  pierced  with  arches.     The  best 


means  of  approach  to  Pompeii  is  afforded 
by  the  Appian  Way  to  the  "Gate  of  Her- 
culaneum."  Along  either  side  of  the  road 
approaching  this  gate  are  a  number  of  an- 
cient tombs,  many  of  which  are  in  as  per- 
fect a  state  as  though  the}'  had  been  erect- 
ed at  a  more  recent  period ;  they  recall 
the  ancient  glories  of  the  Appian,  and  is 
called  the  Street  of  the  Tombs,  through 
which  we  will  pass,  and  note  the  most  im- 
portant objects.  Man_y  of  the  houses  have 
derived  their  names  from  the  paintings 
which  they  contained,  and  in  many  cases 
from  the  ro}'al  personages  in  whose  honor 
the  excavations  have  been  made. 

Villa  of  Diomedes. — A  very  interesting 
specimen  of  a  suburban  villa,  and  one 
of  the  most  extensive  private  residences 
which  have  been  discovered.  On  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  road  to  it  is  the  tomb  of 
M.  Arrius  Diomedes,  from  which  circum- 
stance the  villa  received  its  name.  Near 
the  garden  gate  of  this  villa  was  found  the 
skeletons  of  the  owner  and  his  attendant, 
one  holding  in  his  hand  the  keys  of  the 
villa,  the  other  carrying  a  purse  which 
contained  one  hundred  gold  and  silver  coins 
of  Nero,  Vitellius,  Vespasian,  and  Titus. 

Tomb  of  the  Arrian  Family,  situated  op- 
posite to  the  villa. 

Tomb  of  the  Marble  Door,  at  the  junction 
of  the  two  roads,  originally  entered  by  a 
door  of  marble  of  a  single  slab,  four  feet 
high,  which  worked  upon  bronze  pivots. 

Tomb  of  Naevohia  Tyche  and  M  minting 
Fuustus,  an  interesting  famih-  tomb  stand- 
ing upon  two  steps,  and  having  a  bas-relief 
and  inscription  upon  its  front;  also  a  bust 
of  Nacvoleia. 

Cenotaph  of  Calventitis  Qu'etits,  an  ele- 
gant altar-tomb  composed  of  white  marble 
upon  a  lofty  pedestal  in  a  court  21  feet 
square. 

Hound  Tomb,  ornamented  with  female 
figures,  vases,  etc. 

Tomb  of  A  rictus  Scaurus. — A  handsome 
monument  supported  on  a  square  base- 
ment, with  a  side  doorwaj'  decorated  with 
fluted  pilasters,  and  leading  to  the  court  at 
the  back  of  the  sepulchral  chamber.  The 
basement  is  ornamented  with  representa- 
tions of  hunting -scenes  and  gladiatorial 
combats. 

Villi  of  Cicero. — The  supposition  is  that 
this  villa  did  belong  to  Cicero,  although 
887 


POMPEII. 


[ITALY.] 


POMPEII. 


there  is  no  absolute  proof  that  such  was 
the  case.  Some  of  the  finest  paintings  and 
mosaics  contained  in  the  Museo  Borbonica 
•were  found  among  its  ruins.  We  also 
find  in  this  vicinity  some  important  tombs. 

Tomb  of  Porcius;  also  Tomb  of  Mammia 
(he  Priestess. 

Herculaneum  Gate. — This  gate,  which 
was  the  most  important  entrance  to  the 
city,  had  a  central  archway  twenty  feet  in 
height  and  fifteen  in  width.  It  was  of 
purely  Roman  architecture,  built  altern- 
ately of  brick  and  lava.  On  the  outside 
of  this  gate  a  marble  sun-dial  was  discov- 
ered, and  on  the  left  of  the  gate  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  ancient  masonry,  one  of  the 
best-preserved  portions  of  the  walls  of 
Pompeii. 

Street  of  Herculaneum  ascends  and  pro- 
ceeds to  the  Forum  by  curves. 

House  of  the  Vestals,  occupying  the  space 
between  two  streets.     The  walls  of  many 
of  the  bedrooms  were  richly  painted,  and 
one  of  them  contained  the  skeleton  of  a  ! 
dog. 

Inn  ofAbinus,  called  "Julius  Polybius," 
in  consequence  of  his  name  having  been 
found  written  on  the  walls. 

Thermopolium,  opposite  to  the  inn,  used 
as  a  drinking-house. 

House  of  Sallust  derived  its  name  from 
the  inscription  C.  Sallust,  M.  F.,  which 
was  painted  on  the  outer  wall.  This  was 
one  of  the  largest  mansions  in  the  city, 
occupying  a  surface  of  40  square  yards. 

House  ofPansa,  occupying  an  area  of 
over  300  feet  by  121,  and  extending  into 
four  streets,  is  a  large  and  interesting  man- 
sion. The  garden  was  half  as  large  as  the 
mansion,  witli  the  remains  of  a  fountain  in 
the  centre,  and  a  reservoir  in  one  corner. 
In  one  of  the  bedrooms  of  the  dwelling 
five  female,  skeletons  were  found. 

House  of  Apollo,  with  richly -painted 
walls,  fountain,  and  a  garden  decorated 
beautifully  with  Bacchanalian  garlands. 
One  of  the  rooms  contains  paintings  of 
Apollo,  Venus,  and  Juno. 

House  of  Adonis  derives  its  name  from 
a  large  painting  illustrating  Adonis  wound- 
ed by  the  wild  boar,  and  consoled  by  Ve- 
nus. 

Home  of  the  Tragic  Poet,  also  called  the 
House  of  Homer — small,  but  one  of  the  most 
elegant  private  residences  in  Pompeii. 

House  of  Castor  and  Pollux,  of  great  mag- 


nificence, large,  and  decorated  in  elegant 
style. 

ffni/aa  of  the  Faun,  deriving  its  name 
from  the  bronze  statuette  of  the  Dancing 
Faun.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  House 
of  thi-  Great  Mosaic,  from  the  great  mosaic 
of  the  battle  of  Issus  or  Granicus.  This 
was  supposed  to  be  the  largest  and  most 
ele.-rant  of  the  Pompeian  houses. 

Temple  of  Fortune,  erected  by  and  at  the 
private  expense  of  Marcus  Tullius,  sup- 
posed to  be  a  member  of  Cicero's  family. 
It  is  small,  and  of  Corinthian  architecture. 

Public  Baths,  an  establishment  of  consid- 
erable extent,  erected  at  the  expense  of 
Gnaeus  Alifius  Nigidius  Maior. 

The  Forum,  by  far  the  most  spacious  and 
imposing  spot  in  Pompeii,  occupying  an 
elevated  position  about  400  yards  from  the 
Herculaneum  Gate. 

Temple  of  Jupiter,  situated  on  an  ele- 
vated basement  at  the  north  end  of  the 
Forum.  The  location  is  the  finest  in  the 
city,  commanding,  from  its  elevated  posi- 
tion, a  magnificent  view  of  Vesuvius  and 
the  Apennines. 

Temple  of  Venus. — The  most  superb  of 
all  the  temples  in  Pompeii ;  situated  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Forum,  and  occupying 
an  area  of  150  feet  by  75. 

The  Basilica,  situated  at  the  southwest 
angle  of  the  Forum,  221  feet  long  and  80 
broad.  Among  the  inscriptions  under  the 
portico  were  some  verses  from  Ovid's  Art 
of  Love. 

Temple  of  Augustus,  called  also  the  Pan- 
theon, the  inner  walls  of  which  were  rich- 
ly decorated ;  and  among  the  beautiful 
paintings  found  here  may  be  mentioned 
Ulysses  in  disguise  meeting  Penelope  on 
his  return  to  Ithaca. 

House  of  Adonis,  also  named  Diana,  and 
lastly  Queen  Caroline. — The  derivation  of 
the  names  are  as  follows :  1st,  from  the 
painting  of  Venus  and  Adonis  ;  2d.  from  a 
marble  statue  of  the  goddess  found  in  one 
of  the  rooms  ;  and  the  third  in  memory  of 
the  wife  of  Murat. 

Houae  of  the  Emperor  Francis  II. — A 
small  mansion,  which  was  opened  in  the 
presence  of  his  imperial  majesty  of  Austria. 

House  of  M.  Lucretius. — The  most  im- 
portant house  described,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  that  of  the  Faun.  In  December, 
1875,  while  the  workmen  were  making  ex- 
cavations near  the  Usurer's  House,  they 


POMPEII. 


[ITALY.] 


GROTTO  OF  PosiLipro. 


came  on  a  silver  altar,  on  which  were  two 
goblets  of  the  same  metal ;  several  cups 
and  saucers  and  spoons  in  similar  material, 
and  greatly  resembling  in  form  those  now 
in  use ;  a  chair  iiK-rusti-d  with  silver,  two 
gold  ear-rings,  and  some  other  objects  of 
ilue.  In  the  same  place  have  been 
found  some  frescoes,  one  of  great  value 
for  its  excellent  state  of  preservation. 
They  have  all  been  transferred  to  the 
Museum. 

Greek  Temple,  also  called  the  Temple,  of 
Xeptune,  or  of  Hercules,  situated  on  one  of 
the  highest  points  of  ground,  and  is  the 
most  ancient  building  yet  discovered. 

The-  Greut  or  Tragic  Theatre,  supposed  to 
have  been  capable  of  containing  5000  per- 
sons, was  erected  in  an  elevated  position, 
and  escaped  in  a  great  measure  the  devas- 
tation which  swept  over  other  houses  situ- 
ated on  the  plain. 

Jinrrackt  of  the  Troops,  a  very  large  in- 
closure,  184  feet  long  by  147  wide.  It  was 
formerly  called  the  Forum  Xnndinnarium. 
These  barracks,  when  first  excavated,  ex- 
hibited reminiscences  of  military  life  in  ev- 
ery portion  of  them.  A  large  number  of 
skeletons  were  found  here. 

The  Amphitheatre.  —  This  building  is 
more  ancient  than  the  Coliseum  at  Rome, 
which  was  not  completed  until  a  year  after 
the  destruction  of  Pompeii.  It  has  been 
estimated  to  accommodate  10,000  persons. 

Other  objects  of  interest  among  the  ru- 
ins the  guides  will  point  out :  new  ones 
are  daily  being  excavated. 

Most  everything  found  at  Pompeii,  in- 
cluding the  beautiful  statues  of  1882,  is  rx- 
hibitcd  at  the  National  Museum  of  Naples. 

Excursion  to  Puzzuoli,  Baits,  Misenum, 
Cwnce,  and  So/fufara. 

One  of  the  longest  and  most  varied 
excursions  to  be  made  in  a  single  day 
is  to  that  truly  historic  and  classic  region 
situated  between  the  Bay  of  Naples  and 
Gaeta,  every  spot  of  which  is  famili:ir 
to  the  reader  of  Roman  history.  Com- 
mencing with  the  Grotto  of  Posilippo, 
Lake  Agnano,  Puzzuoli,  Baiae,  Cuma>,  Mi- 
senum,  and  Solfatara,  the  diversity  of  this 
excursion  may  be  imagined  by  a  catalogue 
made  by  Jarvis  of  what  he  "did"'  in  one 
day.  It  can  be  done,  though  three  days 
would  be  better.  "  Two  craters,  five  lakes, 
four  ruined  cities,  five  grottoes,  and  vapor 
baths  more  or  less  poisonous,  an  amphi- 


theatre, one  ruined  prison,  two  ruined  res- 
ervoirs, one  ruined  gate,  two  ruined  aque- 
ducts and  bridges,  seven  ruined  villas, 
three  fish-ponds,  and  six  temples,  includ- 
ing thirty  miles  carriage  ride,  three  miles 
donkey-back,  distance  man-back  uncertain, 
some  five  or  six  miles  walking,  climbing. 
stumbling,  and  subterranean  exploring, 
besides  a  small  piece  of  boating,  and  the 
paying  of  upward  of  30  distinct  fees  and 
gratuities!" 

A  carriage  will  cost  say  30  fr.  for  a 
party.  Start  early  in  the  morning,  taking 
from  the  hotel  the  most  honest  valet-de- 
place  you  can  find,  and  give  him  a  carte 
blanche  to  pay  all  fees,  donkey-hire,  etc., 
to  keep  you  rid  of  all  beggars,  sellers  of 
antiques — manufactured  at  Puzzuoli — and, 
in  fact,  to  act  as  a  body-guard,  and  keep 
you  from  being  swindled  and  imposed 
upon. 

It  would  require  a  volume  to  describe 
what  may  be  seen  on  this  excursion  ;  we 
shall  consequently  give  but  a  short  syn- 
opsis. 

The  Grotto  of  Posilippo  (at  the  entrance 
of  which  is  Virgil's  tomb)  is  only  a  tunnel 
cut  through  the  hill  half  a  mile  in  length, 
about  75  feet  high,  through  which  we  pass 
on  our  way  to  Puzzuoli,  the  principal  siiiht 
of  which  is  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Sera- 
pis,  discovered  about  the  middle  of  the  18th 
century,  at  the  time  of  the  erection  of  the 
Toledo  Palace,  where  it  had  been  buried 
by  an  earthquake.  Most  of  its  beautiful 
columns,  graceful  statuary,  and  elegant- 
colored  marbles  were  removed  by  the  King 
of  Naples  to  decorate  his  palace  and  thea- 
tre at  Caserta.  Fee,  1  fr.  50  c. 

Here  also  may  be  seen  the  immense 
Mole  constructed  by  the  Emperor  Caligu- 
la, the  amphitheatre  in  which  the  Emperor 
Nero  fought,  and  under  which  St.  Janua- 
rius  was  imprisoned,  480  by  380  feet ;  the 
Temple  of  the  Nymphs,  the  Temple  of 
Neptune,  and  the  Villa  of  Cicero,  or  what 
remains  of  it.  This  last  contained  for  a 
long  time  the  remains  of  the  Emperor  Ha- 
drian, who  died  at  Baiae,  previous  to  their 
removal  to  his  splendid  mausoleum  at 
Rome.  There  are  also  the  remains  of 
numerous  baths,  temples,  and  tombs.  On 
our  way  we  pass  the  monastery  of  the  Cap- 
pucini,  where  St.  Junuarius  suffered  mar- 
tyrdom. The  stone  on  which  he  was  be- 
headed is  here  shown. 

889 


LAKE  AVERNCS. 


[ITALY.] 


GKOTTO  DEL  CANE. 


From  Puzzuoli  to  the  half-extinct  vol- 
cano of  Solfatara  is  nearly  one  mile  : 
donkey,  1  fr.  ;  no  carriage-road  ;  entrance, 
50  c.  each  person.  This  is  the  Forum 
Vulcani  of  Strabo.  The  ground  is  warm. 
and  hollow  in  every  direction.  The  con- 
ductor will  throw  down  a  large  stone,  which 
makes  the  shell  on  which  you  stand  trem- 
lile.  At  one  end  of  the  crater  there  is  a 
small  opening  where  for  2000  years  the 
hot  fire  has  been  belching  forth. 

Leaving  Puzzuoli,  we  pass  the  Monte 
Nuoro,  so  called  on  account  of  its  compar- 
atively recent  origin,  which  occurred  on 
the  night  of  September  30,  1538,  after  a 
great  earthquake.  The  ground  previously 
had  been  perfectly  level.  We  now  arrive 
at  Lake  Avemus,  which  is  connected  with 
Lake  Lucrine  by  a  canal  cut  by  the  Em- 
peror Agrippa.  Here  we  have  the  Sibyfs 
Cave,  immortalized  by  Virgil.  If  you  are 
anxious  to  be  choked  with  foul  air,  covered 
with  soot  and  smoke,  you  may  traverse  the 
entrance  mounted  on  a  man's  back,  who 
follows  another  carrying  a  torch,  and  get 
landed  up  to  the  knees  in  water  in  a  small- 
sized  stone  chamber  black  as  midnight — 
that's  the  Grotto !  A  short  distance  far- 
ther there  is  another  grotto,  the  duplicate 
of  this.  Virgil  deserves  much  credit  in 
his  selection  of  such  an  avenue  to  the  in- 
fernal regions.  Here  yEneas,  conducted  by 
the  Sibyl,  offered  sacrifices  to  the  infernal 
gods.  Admission,  1  fr.  each  person,  and 
5  if  the  guide  can  get  it.  Lake  Lucrine 
is  eelebrated  for  its  oyster-beds,  from 
which  the  Romans  derived  their  supply  of 
bivalves. 

After  passing  the  hot  Baths  of  Nero,  sit- 
uated under  where  his  villa  is  supposed  to 
have  stood,  and  where  you  can  have  eggs 
boiled  in  two  minutes  by  a  guide  who  will 
charge  you  as  much  as  he  can  get  for  them, 
you  arrive  at  the  Bay  of  Baice,  so  justly 
celebrated  by  Horace.  The  town  of  Baia?, 
if  we  credit  Cicero,  was  one  of  the  most 
dissolute  and  licentious  cities  in  Italy. 
During  both  the  Roman  and  Middle  Ages 
it  was  notorious  for  its  profligacy.  Mar- 
tial says  the  Roman  matrons  arrived  here 
with  the  reputation  of  Penelope  and  left  it 
with  that  of  Helen.  And  even  as  late  as 
the  fifteenth  century  the  ladies  of  Naples, 
in  leaving  it,  left  their  virtue  behind  them. 
It  is  said  it  was  the  ruin  of  both  old  and 
young.  Here  you  will  find  a  grand  hotel, 
890 


but  maccaroni  and  vinegar  are  the  only  in- 
!  ducements  to  patronize  it.  Hotel  delta  Re- 
gina  better.  The  principal  objects  of  cu- 
riosity are  the  castle  of  Don  Pedro  dc 
Toledo,  and  the  numerous  baths,  temples, 
etc.,  etc.  It  is  said  the  Emperor  Hadrian 
starved  himself  to  death  here. 

We  now  pass  the  tomb  of  Agrippina, 
the  villa  of  Hortensius,  or  the  foundations 
of  it  in  the  water.  Here  Nero  plotted  the 
death  of  his  mother,  whom  he  killed  at  her 
villa  near  Lucrine. 

M'tivnn,  the  principal  naval  port  of  the 
Romans  ;  here  Caesar  Augustus,  Mark  An- 
tony, and  Pompey  met  to  divide  the  Ro- 
man Empire. 

We  now  arrive  at  the  Area  Felice,  the 
gatewaj-  of  the  old  city  of  Cumae,  from  the 
top  of  which  a  splendid  view  may  be  ol  - 
taincd,  including  the  retreat  and  spot  on 
which  the  great  Scipio  Africanus  breathed 
his  last.  Oumre  has  recenth-  become  no- 
torious for  the  immense  number  of  tombs 
which  have  been  discovered,  containing 
not  only  skeletons,  but  armor,  pictures, 
vases,  and  jewelry.  The  excavations  have 
brought  to  light  three  distinct  races.  The 
uppermost  stratum  consists  of  the  narrow 
graves  of  the  Romans,  beneath  this  the 
tombs  of  the  early  Greek  settlers,  and 
deeper  still,  some  fifty  feet  below  the  sur- 
face, the  original  sepulchres  of  an  unknown 
race. 

We  now  pass  the  ancient  I.iternum,  im- 
mortalized as  the  residence  of  Scipio  Afri- 
eanus.  To  this  place  lie  retired  after  being 
falsely  accused  of  peculation  by  his  coun- 
trymen. 

The  Lakf  Ar/nano  is  about  three  miles 
in  circumference ;  its  waters  were  noted 
for  the  cure  of  gout  and  rheumatism,  but 
lately  the  lake  has  been  drained  in  the 
same  manner  as  Fucino,  which  has  rather 
marred  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  Near 
the  Stufe  di  San  Germano  is  the  Grotto 
del  Cane,  where  unfortunate  dogs  are  near- 
ly killed  for  the  benefit  of  visitors,  to  show 
them  the  effect  of  carbonic-acid  gas.  These 
dogs,  it  is  said,  are  so  in  the  habit  of  dying 
that  they  don't  mind  it  at  all.  The,  oper- 
ator holds  the  dog  by  the  legs,  with  his 
',  head  close  to  the  surface  :  in  one  minute 
he  is  in  convulsions.  A  lighted  torch  held 
close  to  the  ground  is  immediately  extin- 
guished; and  it  is  said  that  a  pistol  can 
not  be  fired  within  its  influence.  It  it 


ISCHIA. 


[ITALY.] 


KOLTES. 


continually   exhaling   from   the   opening 
volumes  of  steam  and  gas. 

From  the  Grotto  to  Axtroni,  one  of  the 
principal  volcanic  craters  in  the  country  : 
it  is  three  miles  in  circumference.  It  is  now- 
used  as  a  deer  preserve  for  the  royal  chase. 

The  islands  of  Ischia  and  Procida. 

During  the  season,  which  is  in  summer, 
steamers  leave  several  times  each  day  for  j 
Procida  and  Ischia.     Fare,  5  fr.  (liable  to 
change).     There  is  also  a  small  fare  for  j 
embarking  at  Naples,  and  for  disembarking  ' 
at  Procida  and  at  Casamicciola.     In  win-  j 
ter  steamers  leave  Naples  several  times  a 
week. 

There  is  little  of  importance  to  be  seen 
in  Procida ;  but,  if  going  to  Ischia,  the 
traveler  can  land  at  the  town  of  Procida, 
and,  ascending  to  the  fort,  obtain  a  beauti- 
ful view  of  the  bay,  then  walk  across  the 
island  (two  miles)  and  take  a  boat  to  Is- 
chia. It  would  be  as  well,  however,  to 
proceed  direct  to  Ischia,  landing  near  Ca- 
tamicriola.  (The  landing-place  is  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  from  the  town.)  There  are 
donkeys  at  the  landing  to  convey  passen- 
gers to  the  town  ;  fare,  50  c. 

Ischia  is  nearly  16  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  contains  a  population  of  28,200, 
whose  principal  occupation  is  the  culture 
of  the  grape  and  fishing.  The  fame  of  its 
mineral  springs  has  descended  from  the 
remotest  antiquity.  When  the  shores  of 
the  bordering  mainland  were  dotted  with 
Roman  villas,  the  bathing  establishments 
near  and  at  Casamiceiola  were  then,  as 
now,  in  high  favor  among  invalids  with 
weak  lungs,  skin  diseases,  etc. ;  in  fact, 
it  has  been  said  by  one  who  was  cured 
by  these  baths  :  "If  there  exists  a  disease 
that  can  not  be  cured  by  one  or  another  of 
the  waters  of  this  island,  when  properly 
prescribed  and  made  use  of,  it  must  be  a 
disorder  that  can  never  be  cured  at  all." 
A  terrible  earthquake  in  1883  ruined  Casa- 
micciola, Forio,  and  Lacco  Ameno,  killing 
3000  persons. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  to  Monte 
Epomeo,  2700  feet.  The  view  of  the  bay 
on  a  lovely  day  is  a  sight  forever  to  be  re- 
membered. 

The  pri  nci  pal  places  on  the  island  are  /Yore, 
with 8000 inhabitants;  Ischia, with 6100;  and 
ruined  Casamicciola.  The  waters  are  most- 
ly beneficial  in  diseases  of  a  chronic  nature. 


Naples  to  Paris.  Time,  49  h.  20  m.  5 
fare,  first  class,  21, ">  fr.  5">  c. 

Naples  to  I-'oggia.  Time.  5  h.  35  m.; 
fare,  first  class,  22  fr.  40  c. 

Naples  to  Rome.  Time,  6  h.  37  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  28  fr.  75  c.  (ordinary);  second 
class,  27  fr.  65  c.  Express  fares,  first  class, 
28  fr.  75  c. ;  second  class,  23  fr.  70  c. 

Naples  to  Ancona.  Time,  13  h.  15  m. 
(to  Bologna,  19  h.  35  m.);  fare,  first  class, 
59  fr.  10  c. ;  second  class,  41  fr.  20  c. 

Naples  to  Palermo.  Florio  &  Co.'s 
steamers  ;  office  at  Naples,  Philiero  No.  5 ; 
five  times  each  week,  in  from  18  to  20 
hours.  Fare,  first  class,  38  fr.  50  c. ;  sec- 
ond class,  22  fr.  50  c. 

Naples  to  Marseilles  (by  sea).  First 
class,  1*1  fr. 

Naples  to  Messina.  Average  21  hours  ; 
fares,  first  class,  exclusive  of  food,  38  fr. 
50  c. 

Messageries  Maritimes  touch  here  on 
their  route  to  Athens,  Alexandria,  and 
Constantinople,  and  vessels  of  different 
lines  are  leaving  almost  daily  for  Leghorn 
and  Genoa ;  also  weekly  to  Messina,  Ca- 
tania, then  Corfu  and  Brindisi. 

Bankers. — Messrs.  W.  J.  Turner  $•  Co., 
64  Santa  Lucia,  cash  letters  of  credit, 
drafts,  circular  notes,  etc  ;  exchange,  reg- 
ister, reading-room,  etc. 

Druggist.  —  KernoCm  English  Pharmacy, 
Strada  S.  Carlo,  14.  best  in  Naples ;  patent 
medicines,  prescriptions  carefully  prepared. 

Restaurant. — De  V Europe,  Piazza.  S.  Fer- 
dinando. 

Watchmaker  (Swiss). — Mr.  F.  Wyss, 
Strada  Santa  Brigida,  47  et  47  bis,  has  the 
largest  assortment  of  stem-winders ;  re- 
pairs effected  in  a  few  hours. 

ROUTE  No.  226. 

Xnp'es  to  Regg'w,  via  Salerno,  Eboli,  Cas- 
fiino.  ( '<).<'  tizn.  <  'nt'inziro,  and  Monteleone. 

Tliis  route  is  one  of  great  length — three 
hundred  miles  by  carriage  from  the  termi- 
nus of  the  line  at  Eboli.  Time,  10  days 
from  Eboli.  A  contract  should  be  made 
with  the  vetturini.  The  Corriere  performs 
the  distance  in  77  hours ;  fare,  63  fr.  75  c. 
There  are  only  three  seats  in  the  diligence  ; 
and  if  the  traveler  contracts  fur  a  certain 
distance,  and  before  he  arrives  at  the  ter- 
minus some  one  else  wants  his  place  who 
will  pay  for  twenty  miles  farther,  the  first 
occupant  of  the  seat  must  pay  all  of  that 
891 


POLLA. 


[ITALY.] 


MONTELEONE. 


distance  or  vacate  his  seat  at  once !  The 
people  say  it  is  not  law,  but  custom  has 
made  it  justice,  as  that  is  the  only  way  to 
keep  the  places  occupied. 

Eboli  und  Aulelta,  described  in  Route 
No.  227. 

Descending  into  the  valley  otDiano,  the 
beautifully  situated  town  of  Polla  is  seen 
tin  the  right.  It  was  almost  entirely  de- 
itroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1857. 

The  towns  of  Sola  and  Diano  are  both 
situated  on  picturesque  heights  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  river. 

Near  the  town  of  Padula  are  the  ruins 
of  the  Certosa  of  San  Lorenzo,  to  the  north 
of  which  is  the  town  of  Mcusico,  formerly 
a  haunt  of  brigands.  It  contains  15,000 
inhabitants,  but  suffered  much  in  1857  by 
the  earthquake  of  that  year. 

Passing  the  village  of  Cusalnitovo,  con- 
taining 3000  inhabitants,  and  crossing  the 
River  Trecchina,  the  town  of  Lagontgro  is 
reached,  the  stopping-place  of  the  carriage 
for  the  third  day.  It  contains  6000  inhal>- 
itants.  It  was  here,  in  1806,  that  the 
French  gained  a  victory  over  the  Neapol- 
itans. 

The  town  of  Lauria,  with  10,000  inhab- 
itants, is  seen  on  the  side  of  lofty  hills, 
and  CasteUuccio  is  reached;  this  town  is 
built  on  a  branch  of  the  Lao,  and  consists 
of  an  upper  and  lower  town,  surrounded  by 
woods  which  abound  in  game. 

Rotondo,  situated  on  a  hill,  contains  5200 
inhabitants ;  it  is  the  frontier  town  of  the 
province  of  Calabria  Citra,  and  was  the 
scene  of  the  complete  rout  of  the  Neapol- 
itans before  the  French  General  Regnier 
in  1806. 

CastroviUari  is  situated  on  a  loft}-  emi- 
nence surrounded  by  hills,  and  contains 
9000  inhabitants,  with  a  Norman  castle. 
A  road  turns  here  to  the  left  to  Cassano, 
passing  through  Frascitnto  and  Porcile, 
distant  ten  miles.  For  description,  see 
Route  No.  228. 

Cosenzri,  or  Cosentia,  the  metropolis  of 
the  Bruttians,  and  where  the  remains  of 
Alexander,  king  of  Epirus,  were  interred. 
It  is  now  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Ca- 
labria Citra,  and  contains  18,000  inhabit- 
ants. Its  houses  are  well  built,  among 
which  is  the  palace  of  the  archbishop.  The 
town  is  subject  to  frequent  vi.-itutions  from 
earthquakes,  and  in  IT*:;  ;il.(it»(i  persons 
perished.  The  shocks  were  so  severe  in 
892 


1870  that  the  castle  walls,  which  are  nine 
feet  thick,  were  complete!}-  shattered. 

The  town  was  taken  by  the  Saracens  in 
1009,  then  by  the  Normans,  who  established 
themselves  here  in  1130.  Alaric,  kiiiL;  of 
the  Goths,  died  before  its  walls  while  be- 
sieging it,  and  was  buried  in  the  bed  of 
the  Bussento  by  his  soldiers. 

As  Philippe  III.  of  France  was  return- 
ing from  his  conflict  with  the  Moors,  and 
passing  through  Calabria  with  the  dead 
body  of  Louis  IX.,  his  father,  and  the  bodies 
of  his  brother,  brother-in-law,  and  son,  his 
first  wife,  Isabella  of  Aragon,  died  while  at 
Cosenza. 

The  Cathedral  contains  the  tomb  of 
Louis  III.  of  Anjou,  who  died  here  in  1435, 
one  year  and  a  half  after  his  marriage  had 
been  solemnized  in  this  church. 

There  is  a  road  from  Cosenza  to  Pao'a 
on  the  coast,  where  steamers  touch  weekly. 

Rogliuno  is  a  small  town  in  a  charming 
position,  commanding  a  prospect  over  a 
beautiful  and  fertile  country.  It  was 
partly  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1638, 
one  quarter  of  its  population  perishing. 

Tiriolo  is  situated  on  the  ridge  of  the 
Apennines  which  separates  the  Corace  and 
the  Lamato.  It  contains  4500  inhabitants. 
Numerous  antiquities  have  been  discovered 
in  its  vicinity ;  among  others  a  decree  of 
the  senate  relative  to  the  Bacchanalian 
conspiracy  mentioned  by  Livy,  B.C.  186. 
It  is  now  in  the  Imperial  collection  at  Vi- 
enna. 

A  road  leads  to  the  left  to  Catanzaro 
(see  Route  No.  228) ;  another  to  the  right 
leads  to  Nicastro,  distance  seven  miles. 
It  contains  the  castle  in  which  the  Emper- 
or Frederick  II.  confined  his  son  Henry, 
who,  having  been  crowned  King  of  Ger- 
many when  a  boy,  revolted  against  his  fa- 
ther. He  was  drowned  while  fording  the 
River  Savunto  on  horseback.  Three  miles 
east  of  this  are  the  ruins  of  the  Benedictine 
monastery  of  £.  Evft  mia,  founded  by  Rob- 
ert Guiscard. 

The  road  now  approaches  the  shore,  on 
which  is  situated  the  town  of  Pizzo,  where 
steamers  from  Naples  touch  weekly. 

Monteleone,  situated  in  an  admirable  po- 
sition, commanding  a  riew  of  the  distant 
surroundings,  and  overtopped  by  a  pictur- 
esque castle  erected  by  Frederick  II.  It 
is  the  chief  town  in  the  district,  and  con- 
tains 10,500  inhabitants. 


MlLETO. 


[ITALY.] 


POTKJCZA. 


Mtitto. — This  town,  which  was  entirely 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1783,  was 
the  favorite  residence  of  Count  Roger  of 
Sicily.  His  son.  King  Roger,  was  born 
here.  Count  Roger  founded  an  abbey  of 
the  Holy  Trinity,  and  carried  off  the  mar- 
ble columns  from  the  temple  of  Proserpine 
to  enrich  it.  Its  ruins  are  still  to  be  seen  ; 
but  the  sarcophagi  which  contained  the 
remains  of  himself  and  wife,  originally  in- 
terred in  the  abbey,  have  been  removed  to 
the  Museum  at  Naples. 

Kosarno,  a  town  of  3500  inhabitants,  is 
passed,  and  Pulmi,  the  capital  of  the  dis- 
trict, reached.  It  is  situated  on  a  high 
cliff  rising  out  of  the  sea,  and  surrounded 
by  gardens  of  oranges  and  olive  planta- 
tions. Its  position  is  superb,  and  the  views 
it  commands  of  much  more  than  ordinary- 
interest  :  these  are  the  never-ceasing  vol- 
cano of  Stromboli,  the  Lipari  Islands,  Mes- 
sina, with  its  background  of  small  volcanic 
hills,  and  the  enormous  peak  of  Mount 
Ktna  in  the  distance. 

A  short  distance  to  the  east  of  Palmi  is 
the  battle-field  where  in  1495  the  French 
gained  a  famous  victory  over  the  Span- 
iards. In  1503  the  Spaniards  were  the 
conquerors  on  nearly  the  same  spot. 

Scilltt,  a  town  of  7000  inhabitants,  pict- 
uresquely situated  on  a  promontory  which 
connects  the  castle  with  the  mainland.  It 
is  noted  for  its  silk  and  wine. 

The  Rock  of  Scylla  is  represented  by 
Homer  as  a  voracious  sea-monster.  It  is 
depirted  by  other  ancient  poets  as  a  beau- 
tiful female  above  the  water,  and  below 
as  six  dogs'  heads  with  horrible  faces  con- 
tinually growling. 

On  the  morning  of  the  5th  of  February. 
1783,  the  principal  part  of  the  town  was 
overthrown  by  an  earthquake,  together 
with  the  castle  :  the  inhabitants  fled  to  the 
sea,  but  nearly  2000  were  drowned. 

Sixteen  miles  from  Sc-illa  is  Reggio,  the 
ancient  Rhegium,  founded  723  years  B.C. 
by  a  colony  of  Messenians.  It  received  a 
Roman  garrison  280  B.C.,  but  the  garrison 
murdered  all  the  males  to  become  p. 
ed  of  the  females  for  mistresses.  The  well- 
deserved  punishment  that  Rome  inflicted 
on  her  soldiers  was  severe.  Julius  Ca>-ar 
restored  it  and  gave  it  his  name.  It  was 
the  last  possession  of  the  Greek  empire  in  • 
Italy.  It  fell  under  the  dominion  of  the 
Normans  in  the  llth  centurv,  and  their 
VOL.  II.-Q  " 


chief,  Robert  Guiscard,  was  elected  Due  de 
Pouille  et  de  Calabre.  It  was  united  to 
the  kingdom  of  Italy  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  16th  century.  It  was  nearly 
destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1783,  and 
suffered  considerably  from  the  same  cause 
in  1841.  It  now  contains  a  population  of 
16,000,  but  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a 
most  populous  district.  It  is  nearly  five 
miles  from  Reggio  to  Messina ;  but  there  is 
no  doubt  that  the  island  of  Sicily  was  once 
connected  with  the  mainland. 

Steamers  to  Messina  twice  daily ;  fare 
2  francs. 


ROUTE  No.  227. 

Naples  to  Tarnnto,  via  Eboli,  Potenza, 
and  Matera  (railway  in  progress  from 
Eboli  to  Taranto).  Time  by  rail  to  Eboli, 
3  hours;  fare,  first  class,  9  fr.  5  c.  The 
road  is  finished  as  far  as  Balvano;  fare, 
first  class,  14  fr.  25  c. 

Eboli  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  height 
commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  sea, 
the  forests  of  Persano,  and  the  ruins  of 
Psestum.  The  remainder  of  this  route  as 
far  as  Auletta  is  described  in  the  preceding 
route.  No.  226. 

At  Eboli  a  branch  line  of  railway  runs 
to  Contursi  in  45  minutes. 

From  Auletta  to  Potenza  there  is  a  dili- 
gence daily  in  9  hours ;  fare  9  francs  ;  poor 
accommodation.  Auletta  and  surround- 
ings suffered  fearfully  from  the  earthquake 
of  1857 ;  over  30,000  lives  were  lost,  two 
thirds  of  whom  died  of  hunger  and  cold. 

Potenza  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of 
that  name,  and  contafns  16, 000  inhabitants. 
This  town  also  suffered  from  the  earth- 
quake of  1857,  many  lives  being  lost. 

Diligence  from  here  to  Actrenza  in  3 
hours.  To  Melfi  in  9  hours,  whence  there 
is  a  diligence  to  Candeki,  on  the  line  to 
Foggia,  distance  27  miles. 

898 


ROUTE. 


[ITALY.] 


ROUTE. 


We  hope  the  coming  year  to  be  able  to 
chronicle  the  opening  of  the  route  by  rail 
to  Taranto. 

From  Bari  (see  Route  No.  216)  to  Ta- 
ranto, railway  lately  opened.  Time,  3  h. 
40  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  10  fr.15  c. ;  second 
class;  7  fr.  60  c. 


ROUTE  No.  228. 

Taranto  to  Reggia  by  the  eastern  coast ; 
railway  nearly  completed — will  probably 
be  opened  in  1877.  As  the  remaining  fifty 
or  sixty  miles  can  only  be  accomplished 
by  walking  or  on  mule-back,  and  there  be- 
ing really  little  to  see  that  can  not  now  be 
894 


seen  from  the  steamers  that  weekly  pass 
along  the  coast,  we  shall  defer  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  route  until  the  railway  is  fin- 
ished. 

At  Taranto  there  is  not  a  lodging-place 
that  approaches  in  the  slightest  degree  to 
either  decency  or  comfort. 


ROUTE  No.  229. 

Naples  to  the  ruins  of  Pcestum.  This 
route  is  described  in  excursions  from  Na- 
ples. 

Naples  to  Palermo,  by  Florio  &  Co.'s 
steamers,  five  times  each  week,  in  from  18 
to  20  hours ;  fare,  first  class.  38  fr.  50  c. ; 
second  class,  22  fr.  50  c. 

Embarkation,  1  frtoc  each  persoii. 


SICILY  AND  MALTA. 


CLIMATE. 


[SICILY.] 


SICILY. 

Sicily  is  the  largest,  finest,  most  fruit- 
ful, and  most  celebrated  island  in  the  Med- 
iterranean. Its  greatest  length  is  about 
180  miles,  by  upward  of  100  in  its  widest 
limits.  It  is  separated  from  the  southern 
extremity  of  Italy  by  the  narrow  Strait  of 
Messina,  only  two  miles  across.  The  shape 
of  the  island  is  triangular,  and  it  gradually 
narrows  from  its  eastern  shores  toward  its 
westernmost  limit.  A  range  cf  mountains 
extends  through  the  length  of  Sicily  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  northern  coast. 
All  the  lower  portion  of  these  mountains, 
which  average  6000  feet  in  height,  is  cov- 
ered with  dense  and  beautiful  vegetation. 
Higher  up,  the  woody  region  encircles 
the  mountains,  and  the  upper  part  is  na- 
ked, and  blackened  by  the  tires  of  numer- 
ous eruptions.  The  valleys  of  Sicily  are 
thickly  inhabited,  and  covered  with  ol- 
ives, vines,  corn,  fruit-trees,  and  aromatic 
herbs.  Sicily  is  well  watered  by  numer- 
ous small  rivers,  and  its  harbors  are  con- 
siderable and  good.  Near  the  eastern  side 
of  the  island  rises  the  gigantic  cone  of 
./Etna,  called  by  the  Sicilians  Mount  Gibello. 
Its  base  is  80  miles  in  circumference,  and 
it  rises  to  the  stupendous  height  of  10,872 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean. 
Its  base  is  highly  cultivated ;  higher  up, 
the  woody  district,  and  above  the  forest 
there  is  a  waste  of  black  lava.  The  crater 
is  about  two  miles  in  circumference ;  in 
addition  to  which  there  are  numerous  small 
cones,  where  the  fire  contained  within  has 
burst  through  its  shattered  sides. 

The  population  of  Sicily  amounts  to 
nearly  2,500,000  ;  its  area  in  square  miles, 
10,500.  Its  vegetable  products  embrace 
numerous  tropical  as  well  as  European 
plants.  It  is  believed  to  have  been  the 
native  country  of  corn,  and  Homer  says 
cf  its  inhabitants, 


"  Untaught  to  plant,  to  turn  the  glebe,  and  sow, 
They  all  their  products  to  free  Nature  owe; 
The  soil  untill'd,  a  ready  harvest  yields. 
With  wheat  and  barley  wave  the  golden  fields ; 
Spontaneous  vines  from  weighty  cluster*  pour, 
And  Jove  descends  in  each  prolific  shower." 

Sicily  was  in  ancient  times  the  seat  of 
many  flourishing  Greek  colonies ;  and  the 
presumption  is,  its  population  was  then 
double  what  it  is  at  the  present  time.  It 
fell  successively  under  the  government  of 
the  Carthaginians,  Romans,  Goths,  Greek 
emperors,  Saracens,  Normans,  and  French, 
till  at  length  it  became  a  dependency,  first 
of  the  crown  of  Spain,  and  more  recently 
that  of  Naples ;  it  is  now  annexed  to  the 
kingdom  of  Victor  Emmanuel. 

The  principal  products  and  exports  of 
Sicily  are  olive-oil,  oranges,  lemons,  al- 
monds, and  other  fruits,  maize,  rice,  beans, 
pulse,  manna,  flax,  hemp,  liquorice,  and 
sumach.  The  wine  trade  is  carried  on  to 
a  very  great  extent.  The  best  wines  of 
the  island  grow  on  ^Etna,  and  are  red,  be- 
ing almost  the  only  good  red  wine  of  the 
class  in  the  island,  though  others  are  pro- 
duced at  Taormina  and  Faro,  but  they 
have  a  taint  of  pitch.  Syracuse  produces 
over  its  smouldering  remains  a  red  mus- 
cadine equal  to  any  other  in  the  world,  if 
not  superior.  A  white  vin  de  liqueur  is  also 
made  here,  but  only  of  the  second  class. 
Messina  furnishes  much  wine  for  exporta- 
tion. The  Val  di  Mazara  and  its  vine- 
yards give  wines  known  in  America  as 
well  as  ^Etna  and  Bronte.  Marsala,  when 
obtained  without  the  admixture  of  execra- 
ble Sicilian  brandy,  is  an  agreeable  wine, 
something  like  Madeira  of  the  second  class, 
and  of  great  body. 

Smyth,  in  his  description  of  Sicilian  char* 
acter,  says :  "  They  are  of  middle  stature, 
well  made,  with  dark  eyes  and  coarse  black 
hair ;  their  features  are  better  than  their 
complexions ;  and  they  attain  maturity  and 
begin  to  decline  earlier  than  the  inhabit- 
ants of  more  northern  regions.  They  are 
cheerful,  inquisitive,  and  fanciful,  with  a 
redundance  of  unmeaning  compliments, 
showing  they  are  not  so  deficient  in  nat- 
ural talents  as  in  their  due  cultivation. 
Their  delivery  is  vehement,  rapid,  full  of 
action,  and  their  gesticulation  violent ;  the 
895 


PALERMO. 


[SICILY.] 


PALERMO. 


latter  is  so  significant  as  almost  to  possess 
the  power  of  speech,  and  animates  them 
•with  peculiar  vivacity,  bordering,  howev- 
er, rather  on  conceit  than  wit,  or.  farce  than 
humor. 

"The  upper  classes  are  incorrigibly  in- 
dolent, and  fond  to  excess  of  titles  and 
such  like  marks  of  distinction.  Here,  in 
fact,  every  house  is  a  palace,  every  handi- 
craft is  a  profession,  every  respectable  per- 
son at  least  an  excellency,  and  every  er- 
rand-boy is  charged  with  an  embassy! 
This  love  of  ostentation  is  so  inveterate 
that  the  poorer  nobility  and  gentry  are 
penurious  in  the  extreme  in  their  domes- 
tic arrangements,  and  almost  starve  them- 
selves to  be  able  to  appear  abroad  in  the 
evening  in  a  poverty-stricken  equipage." 

Accounts  in  Sicily  are  kept  in  francs. 

On  arriving  at  Palermo  passengers  are 
convej'ed  to  the  Dogano,  1  franc  for  each 
person ;  here  baggage  is  examined  ;  fare 
to  the  hotel  1  franc,  distance  nearly  one 
mile. 

PALERMO. 

Palermo — the  ancient  Panormus — con- 
tains a  population  of  219,398  with  its  sub- 
urbs. Principal  hotels  are  H.  A .  la  Trina- 
cria,  which  rises  above  a  delightful  walk 
by  the  sea,  and  //.  de  France,  on  Piazza 
Marina.  The  prices  of  these  hotels  aver- 
age 14  fr.  50  c.  per  day.  Hotel  Olivia  10 
francs  per  day.  This  city,  which  is  regu- 
larly built,  is  situated  on  the  southwest 
side  of  an  extensive  bay,  in  a  wide  plain, 
bounded  by  Alpine  mountains,  which,  from 
its  luxuriance,  has  been  termed  the  "  Gold- 
en Shell."  Every  where  the  eye  can  rest 
one  sees  orchards  in  bloom,  fields  of  cac- 
tuses glistening  in  the  sun,  gardens  of  or- 
ange-trees, fields  watered  by  small  canals 
that  fertilize  the  soil  of  Palermo. 

In  front  of  the  city,  commanding  de- 
lightful views  of  sea,  shore,  and  mountain, 
is  the  Marini,  a  raised  terrace  or  platform, 
extending  a  mile  along  the  bay :  it  is  250 
feet  wide,  and  one  of  the  finest  public  prom- 
enades in  Palermo.  Immediately  below 
this  there  is  a  beautiful  drive,  formerly 
adorned  with  statues  of  the  Bourbon  kings. 
They  were  thrown  down  in  the  Revolution 
of  1848.  At  the  east  end  of  this  walk  is 
the  Villa  Giulia,  or  the  Public  Garden,  laid 
out  in  walks  interspersed  with  statues, 
896 


fountains,  and  summer-houses.  There  is 
one  lone  fountain  where  the  water  falls 
OTer  green  niches,  in  which  fresh  nosegays 
are  placed  every  day ;  the  effect  of  these 
flowers,  seen  through  the  falling  crystal, 
is  truly  delightful.  Adjoining  this  garden 
is  the  Botanical  Garden,  which  contains  a 
large  collection  of  very  valuable  plants; 
at  the  entrance  is  a  beautiful  building,  in 
which  botanical  lectures  are  delivered.  To 
enter  both  gardens  a  fee  is  demanded ;  in 
fact,  every  where  you  go  here  it  is  the 
same;  but  they  are  satisfied  with  very 
little. 

Two  large  streets,  the  Strada  Xuovo 
and  Strada  Toledo,  each  upward  of  a  mile 
in  length,  intersect  each  other  at  riirht 
angles,  dividing  the  city  into  four  equal 
parts,  and  leading  to  the  four  principal 
gates.  These  four  different  parts  or  quar- 
ters of  the  city  are  known  by  their  re- 
spective names  of  Loggia,  Albergaria,  KaU 
sa,  and  Capo. 

The  main  street  of  Palermo,  the  Toledo, 
is  perfectly  straight,  and  passes  through 
the  city  from  Porta  Felice  to  Porta  Nuova. 
It  preserves  in  its  aspect,  as  well  as  its 
name,  evident  tokens  of  Spanish  presence. 
Indeed,  many  influences  are  visible :  the 
Greeks,  the  Carthaginians,  who  made  Pa- 
lermo the  capital  of  their  Sicilian  domin- 
ions ;  the  Romans,  the  Saracens,  the  Nor- 
mans, and  the  Spaniards,  have  held  her 
successively.  Palermo  may  have  forgot- 
ten her  ancient  rulers,  but  she  has  kept 
vivid  traces  of  her  modern  masters.  The 
streets  are  well  paved  with  large  flat  blocks 
of  lava,  and  are  lined  throughout  their 
whole  length  with  handsome  buildings  in 
the  Doric,  Ionian,  and  Corinthian  orders, 
and  enriched  with  statues  and  fountains. 

Nearly  all  the  finest  mansions  have  mis- 
erable shops  at  the  base,  and  when  the  oc- 
cupant is  short  of  room  he  usurps  the  side- 
walk, making  the  foot-passenger  walk  in 
the  middle  of  the  street  among  the  car- 
riages. Nearly  all  these  houses  have  large 
picturesque  balconies,  where  the  ladies 
spend  a  large  portion  of  their  time.  They 
are  generally  on  the  upper  floor,  and  are 
mostly  hired  by  nuns,  who  have  under, 
ground  passages  that  lead  from  their  clois- 
ters ;  they  come  here  to  breathe  the  fresh 
evening  air  after  the  heat  of  the  day.  The 
balconies  are  so  closely  grated  that  it  is 
impossible  to  see  them. 


PA  L  E 


^v^\\\>.....T...---fp^;y-.^ 

*&C  •*' 


: 


a      Cl  I      2}j   !,  jr'Mrvji^CW'R.    V '  •&  ~\T~- ~~i~^~ a  -T.f»     /J^M*   ' 

'         ' 


lil  Jijj/ir^fti  .->. 
fiS  i'Oliiuilt.l 


Harp« 


\  M  O. 


WLotitna 

_      81    .Har,tf  ,li  /V.-/.J  SK  . 

Hi  itiSltatalin  93    - 

.     83    U<fH\ia,HBaifft,^H\a  Si 

1)6  7; 

BS    tfffi-fiM,ivc      (Ki .f.t',:i7f 


imi  Book . 


PALEHMO. 


[SICILY.] 


PALEBMO. 


Palermo  has  a  great  number  of  convents 
and  churches.  There  is  said  to  bo  alxiut 
seventy-five  of  the  former.  The  churches, 
especially  those  that  line  the  Toledo,  are 
almost  all  magnificent — immense  amounts 
have  been  lavished  in  splendid  marbles 
and  costly  alabasters.  Many  of  them  are 
absolutely  covered  with  mosaics;  the 
floors,  chapels,  and  columns,  of  inlaid  mar- 
ble ;  and  the  altars  and  tabernacles  of  pre- 
cious stones,  lapis  lazuli,  verd- antique, 
malachite,  and  jasper.  They  are  nearly 
all  built  with  an  elevated  fa9ade,  a  long 
nave,  and  two  side  aisles,  bounded  by  lat- 
eral  chapels,  dedicated  to  various  saints, 
and  decorated  with  pillars,  paintings,  stat- 
ue-, and  flowers. 

The  C'lthcdral  is  a  beautiful  specimen  of 
the  Sicilian-Arab-Norman  style;  it  is  sit- 
uated at  the  end  of  the  Toledo,  in  a  wide 
piazza.  It  was  erected  by  Archbishop 
Waller  near  the  close  of  the  12th  century. 
The  interior  has  been  desecrated  by  white- 
wash. It  contains  some  very  good  paint- 
ings ;  a  statue  of  St.  Ifosalie,  the  patron 
saint  of  Palermo  ;  the  tombs  of  Roger,  the 
founder  of  the  Norman  kingdom  of  Sicily, 
that  of  Ferdinand  II.  and  his  wife  Con- 
stance, etc.,  etc. 

Other  churches  well  worth  visiting  are 
St.  Giuseppe  and  Martorana :  the  last  be- 
longs to  the  convent  of  Benedictine  nuns. 
The  nave  is  built  in  the  Arab  and  Norman 
style  ;  the  walls  and  high  altar  are  mag- 
nificent with  mosaic,  lapis  lazuli,  verd-an- 
tique,  and  porphyry. 

S.  Dominica  is  one  of  the  largest  church- 
es, and  well  deserves  a  visit.  It  contains 
some  good  pictures. 

The  Royal  Palace,  the  residence  of  the 
viceroy,  stands  on  a  large  square  near  the 
Porta  Nuova ;  it  was  begun  by  the  Sara- 
cens, continued  and  finished  by  the  Nor- 
mans. One  of  the  chambers  of  this  palace 
contains  the  portraits  of  the  Spanish,  Nea- 
politan, and  Sicilian  viceroys.  The  apart- 
ments immediately  above  the  viceroy's  arc 
kept  in  constant  readiness  for  the  king 
whenever  he  chooses  to  visit  Sicilv.  Dur- 
ing the  Revolution  of  1848  the  population 
threw  all  the  furniture  out  of  the  windows 
and  destroyed  it.  They  also  destroyed  one 
of  the  two  ancient  bronze  Rams  found  at 
Syracuse.  The  palace  contains  a  gallery 
of  pictures  and  a  good  armory.  On  its 
summit  is  the  observatory  from  which  Pioz- 


za  discovered  the  planet  Ceres.  There  is 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  city  and  harbor 
from  this  point. 

Attached  to  this  palace  is  the  Cappella 
Pal'itina,  or  church  of  St.  Peter,  built  by 
Roger  II.  in  the  early  part  of  the  13th  cen- 
tury—  a  splendid  monument  of  the  mag- 
nificence of  the  Norman  sovereigns.  This 
chapel  is  small  and  elegant ;  its  eight  arch- 
es are  supported  by  tiim  marble  columns; 
its  walls  are  of  richly  colored  mosaic,  and 
the  pavement  of  variegated  marbles. 

The  Museum  is  situated  near  the  Porta 
Macqueda ;  open  daily  from  10  to  3,  except 
fete-days  and  Mondays ;  fee,  1  franc.  It 
contains  a  collection  of  Antiquities,  and  a 
picture-gallery  of  little  importance. 

The  private  collection  of  Principe  Tra- 
fna,  in  the  Via  Macqueda,  deserves  a  visit. 
It  possesses  some  splendid  specimens  of 
Venetian  glass  and  Sicilian  vases. 

Through  the  Porta  Nuova,  not  far  from 
the  king's  palace,  but  still  in  the  country, 
stands  the  Palace  of  Zisa,  a  real  Saracen 
edifice  built  in  the  Uth  or  10th  century.  It 
is  still  in  good  repair,  and  has  been  sev- 
eral times  used  lately  as  a  royal  residence. 
The  view  from  this  point  is  most  grand : 
the  city,  the  bay,  the  mountains  that  in- 
close the  plain  of  Palermo  on  everv  side, 
are  in  full  view,  adorned  with  groves — the 
bamboos,  the  magnolias,  and  the  gerani- 
ums, which  here  grow  to  the  height  of  an 
ordinary  tree  :  these,  with  the  palm-trees 
waving  in  the  air  with  mingled  majesty 
and  grace,  and  flowers  of  every  kind  grow- 
ing freely,  unsheltered  by  glass  prisons, 
seem  to  render  the  scene  an  earthly  para- 
dise. 

Near  the  Palace  of  Zisa  is  the  Capuchin 
convent  containing  the  celebrated  Cata- 
combs. There  are  an  immense  number  of 
bodies  in  this  receptacle,  and  the  sight  is 
truly  disgusting.  The  males  are  all  stand- 
ing on  their  feet  on  shelves,  and  the  fe- 
males are  laid  down  in  bexes  with  glass 
lids,  dressed  in  the  same  clothes  they  wore 
during  life — many  of  them  in  their  bridal 
robes.  The  bodies  are  either  nun:' 
or  the  name  of  the  person  on  a  ticket  is  at- 
tached. The  position  they  occupy  in  the 
(.'atai-ombs  costs  $5  for  the  males  and  £10 
for  the  females.  Some  of  the  bodies  have 
been  here  sevtr.il  centuries.  Among  oth- 
ers is  that  of  the  King  of  Tunis :  he  was 
shipwrecked  on  the  coast  of  Sicily,  wa* 
897 


PALERMO. 


[SICILY.] 


PALERMO. 


saved  by  the  Capuchin  monks,  and  taken  to 
their  convent,  where  he  fell  sick.  While 
ill  he  embraced  the  Christian  religion ;  he 
died,  and  his  body  is  here  preserved.  Aft- 
er death  the  body  goes  through  a  process 
of  embalming,  previous  to  which  it  is  kept 
under  running  water  for  six  months.  Ev- 
ery monk  who  has  died  here  since  the 
foundation  of  the  convent  is  stuck  up 
dressed  in  the  habiliments  of  the  order. 
They  are  pointed  out  with  apparent  pride 
and  satisfaction  by  one  of  the  fraternity. 
1  Among  the  sights  well  worth  seeing  in 
Palermo  is  the  Palazzu  I  '<  rc>  He.  command- 
ing a  very  beautiful  view  of  the  harbor. 
It  is  built,  as  Prince  Napoleon's  house  in 
Rue  Montagne,  Paris,  to  represent  a  Pom- 
peian  villa. 

Nearly  the  first  thing  the  traveler  does 
after  his  arrival  at  Palermo  is  to  make 
the  ascent  of  Monte  Peregrine  to  visit  the 
Shrine  of  St.  Rosalie.  Were  there  no 
shrine  to  see,  the  view  alone  would  well 
repay  him.  Here  only  can  you  distinguish 
every  object  in  the  city,  and  gain  a  clear 
outline  of  its  walls  and  gates,  and  all  its 
lovely  surroundings.  "Ascend  St.  Paul's, 
London,  what  do  you  see  ?  Roofs.  As- 
cend any  height  out  of  the  city  ?  haze  and 
smoke.  So  with  Paris :  ascend  Notre 
Dame  or  Montmartre  —  the  view  is  fine, 
but  there  is  no  outline ;  a  wilderness  of 
roofs,  but  nothing  to  treasure  up  in  the 
memory.  So  at  Koine :  the  view  from  the 
Pinchin  Hill — roofs,  and  the  distance  a  des- 
ert plain.  At  Naples  and  Genoa  you  ad- 
mire their  magnificent  bays  and  the  arena 
of  lovely  hills  which  surround  them  ;  but 
landing  dispels  the  illusion.  Perhaps  Ven- 
ice or  Milan  comes  nearer  to  Palermo,  seen 
from  a  height,  than  any  other  city.  In  the 
former,  although  looking  from  the  Cam- 
panile, we  see  the  Alpine  summits  with 
their  snowy  peaks ;  the  islands  of  the  sea, 
clad  in  the  deepest  verdure  ;  her  radiant 
domes  glistening  in  the  sun ;  her  water- 
streets  reflecting  beauty  on  every  side  : 
still  we  are  too  much  in  the  city  to  see  it 
properly.  Milan,  from  the  Duomo,  is  a 
lovely  sight ;  but  roofs  predominate.  But 
in  the  scene  from  Monte  Peregrino  noth- 
ing disappoints  you.  There  is  nothing  one 
could  wish  that  would  add  to  the  enchant- 
ment of  the  scene.  Had  Mohammed  seen 
it,  instead  of  Damascus,  from  the  heights, 
well  might  he  have  said,  "  I  can  not  enter. 


There  is  but  one  Paradise  for  me,  and  that 
is  above." 

The  legend  of  the  patron  saint  of  Paler- 
mo is  firmly  believed  by  the  natives.     St. 
Rosalie  was  young  (14  years),  of  illustrious 
birth,  and  affianced  to  Roger,  king  of  Sici- 
ly, the  same  who  had  expelled  the  Arabs 
from  Sicily  and  Malt:i.      Two  days  before 
the   celebration  of  the   nuptials  she   fled 
from  home  and  kindred,  from  the  world 
and  its  ties,  to  the  lonely  spot  on  the  top 
of  Monte  Peregrino.     Her  youthful  body 
was  found  in  a  grotto,  some  centuries  later, 
under  the  following  circumstances.     Dur- 
ing a  frightful  plague,  which  had  been  rag- 
ing in  Palermo  for  some  weeks,  one  of  the 
citizens  dreamed  that  a  dove  descended 
from  heaven  and  beckoned  him  to  follow : 
he  did  so,  and  was  led  to  the  top  of  Monte 
Peregrino,  where  he  beheld  the  body  of  the 
lost  Rosalie.      The  dream  made  such  an 
impression  upon  him  that  he  visited  the 
grotto  in  the  morning,  and  there  discover- 
ed her  remains  in  the  most  perfect  state. 
He  immediately  reported  the  case  to  the 
authorities,  who,  with  all  the   dignitaries 
of  the  Church,  brought  the  body  in  state  to 
the  Cathedral  of  Palermo,  when  immediate- 
ly the  plague  departed.     A  church  was 
built  on  the  spot  which  Rosalie  had  in- 
habited, and  an  altar  was  raised  beneath 
the  hole  in  the  rock  where  her  remains 
had  been   found.      An    iron    railing    sur- 
rounds the  altar ;  near  it,  on  the  left,  is  a 
fine  marble  statue  of  St.  Rosalie  dying ;  it 
is  by  a  Florentine  sculptor.     Behind  the 
altar  is  a  brook  flowing  from  the  mountain. 
j\f<mreale — ;i  miserable  little  town  about 
four  miles  distant,  after  passing  through 
Porta  Nuova.     It  is  absolutely  necessary 
to  visit  this  town,  however,  to  see  its  re- 
markable church — the  finest  in  Sicily.     It 
was  founded  by  William  the  Good  in  the 
12th  century.      The  legend  connected  with 
it  runs  thus :   William  the  Good,  having 
gone  hunting  on  the  mountain,  and  fallen 
asleep  beneath  the  oak-tree,  had  a  dream, 
in  which  the  blessed  Virgin  appeared  to 
him,  and  commanded  him  to  build  a  church 
on  the  spot.     Hence,  says  tradition,  the 
church  and  the  name,  Mount  Roy  id.      It  is 
difficult  to  say  what  is  its  style  of  archi- 
tecture— Greek  or  Arabic,  Byzantine  or 
Norman.    The  walls  are  covered  with  mag- 
nificent  mosaics,   representing   scriptural 
histories.     The  chapels  are  of  the  richest 


PALERMO. 


[SICILY.] 


GlBOENTb 


marbles,  and  the  sides  covered  with  masses 
of  the  most  splendid  mosaics.  There  is  a 
very  fine  cloister  in  the  Benedictine  mon- 
astery of  Monreale.  The  gates  of  the 
church  are  of  bronze,  by  Pisan  Bonarmo, 
and  are  beautiful  relics  of  the  12th  centu- 
ry. The  house  and  gardens  of  the  Prin- 
cipessn  Butera-Radali,  which  were  occupied 
in  1M-15  and  1846  by  the  imperial  family 
of  Kussia,  are  well  worthy  a  visit,  as  is 
also  the  '•Favorita,"  the  residence  of  the  i 
exiled  Bourbons  while  Murat  sat  on  the 
throne  of  Naples ;  but  every  thing  now 
looks  melancholy  and  deserted. 

Palermo  has  a  college  of  nobles,  a  high 
female  seminary,  an  episcopal  seminary, 
many  inferior  schools,  and  numerous  char- 
itable institutions,  public  baths,  libraries, 
and  scientific  associations.  The  silk  man- 
ufactures are  the  principal  source  of  in- 
come, but  the  inhabitants  depend  more  j 
on  its  being  the  seat  of  government  and 
residence  of  the  viceroy.  If  you  have  no 
courier,  employ  a  valet-de-place  for  one  or 
two  days ;  price  50  c. 

There  is  a  very  fine  opera-house  here, 
and  an  excellent  company ;  also  a  circus  • 
opened  in  1871. 

The  principal  promenade  of  the  citizens 
is  La  Flora,  where  concerts  are  given 
during  the  summer.  Adjoining  is  the 
Botanical  Garden.  There  is  also  an  En- 
glish Garden  (Giardino  Inglese),  and  the 
coast  promenade,  called  the  Marina,  be- 
tween the  coast  and  the  Porta  Felice. 

Near  the  English  garden,  in  which 
stands  a  bust  of  Garibaldi,  stands  the  roy- 
al chateau  of  La  Favorita,  a  beautiful 
country  residence  erected  by  Ferdinand 
IV.  in  the  Chinese  style.  Permits  to  vis- 
it it  will  be  procured  by  your  hotel  pro- 
prietor. 

Carriages. — One  horse,  the  course  within 
the  city,  50  c. ;  to  the  harbor  or  railway, 
1  fr. ;  one  piece  of  baggage  20  c.,  two  pieces 
30  c.  For  1  hour,  1  fr.  80.  Two  horses, 
the  course  within  the  city,  80  c. ;  outside 
the  gates,  1  fr.  50  c.  For  the  first  hour,  2 
fr.  20  c. ;  for  each  additional  hour,  2  fr. 

Driving  within  the  town  on  Good  Friday 
is  prohibited. 


ROUTE  No.  230. 

Palermo  to  Girgmti,  via  Termini.  Time, 
6  h.  30  m. ;  fare,  first  class,  16  fr.  30  c.; 
second  class,  11  fr.  40  c. 

Termini,  a  poor  but  populous  town  of 
26,000  inhabitants.  There  is  a  bath  es- 
tablishment here,  with  chalybeate  springs 
which  were  mentioned  by  Pindar. 

Lercara,  population  !>200,  all  of  whom 
are  noted  for  their  honesty  and  cleanliness. 
Never  did  a  bandit  emerge  from  the  town  \ 
In  the  language  of  Artemus  Ward,  This  is 
sarcasm. 

S.  Giovanni  di  Cammarata  is  the  sta- 
tion of  Cammarata,  which  lies  to  the  right, 
and  contains  5000  inhabitants. 

Cvmittini,  a  short  distance  from  Girgen- 
ti,  is  noted  for  its  sulphur-mines,  the  prop- 
erty of  Ignazio  Genuardi  of  Girgenti. 

Girgenti,  the  Acragas  of  the  Greeks, 
and  Agrigentum  of  the  Romans,  is  badly 
built  and  dirty,  but  the  natural  beauties 
of  the  place  are  superb.  Hotels,  Centrale 
and  GtUia,  It  contains  16,000  inhabit- 
ants. The  ancient  city  was  founded  by  a 
colony  from  Gela  in  582. 

The  ruins  of  the  ancient  temples  are  sit- 
uated about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  from  the 
town,  and  are  well  deserving  a  visit  even 
from  Naples. 

The  principal  are  the  Temple  of  Juno 
Lacinia,  the  Temple  of  Hercules,  and  Tem- 
ple <->f  Concord.  This  last  is  one  of  the 
best -preserved  Grecian  temples  in  exist- 
ence, as  during  the  Middle  Ages  it  was 
converted  into  the  church  of  S.  Gregorio 
delle  Rape.  The  original  thirty-four  col- 
umns are  all  still  standing.  The  Temple 
of  Zeus  was  an  immense  structure,  ita 
length  being  360  feet,  and  breadth  181. 
Its  columns  were  55  feet  high,  and  33  in 
circumference.  A  large  portion  of  its  ma- 
terial was  taken  to  construct  the  modern 
mole  of  the  town. 

A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  Tomb 
Theron  outside  the  gate. 

A  ^uide  5  fr.  per  day.  An  excursion 
should  be  made  to  the  mud  volcano  of 
Maccaluba,  distant  six  miles ;  donkey,  3 
francs. 

899 


TRAPANI. 


[SICILY.] 


LlC ATA. 


ROUTE  No.  231. 

Palermo  tj  Trapani,  Marsala,  Castel- 
vetrano, and  the  ruined  Temples  of  Selinus. 
Five  days  will  be  necessary  for  this  excur- 
sion. 

[The  most  direct  route  to  the  temples 
of  Selinus  is  two  days  less,  viz.,  three 
days.  First  day  diligence  to  Calatafimi, 
9  fr.  GO  e. ;  second  day  to  Segeste  and  back, 
and  diligence  to  Castelvetrano,  6  fr.  45  c. ; 
third  day  to  Selinunto  (Selinus)  and  back 
to  Castelvetrano;  mule,  3  fr.] 

Railway  nearly  finished  to  Marsala. 

Trapani  contains  27,000  inhabitants. 
Hotel,  Cinque  Torn.  In  ancient  times  it 
was  a  fortress,  peopled  by  a  colony  from 
Eryx.  It  contains  no  relics  of  antiquity 
to-day,  nor  objects  of  modern  times  worthy 
of  notice.  There  is  a  fine  excursion  to  the 
town  of  Monte  San  Giuliatio,  situated  on  an 
isolated  mountain  2500  feet  high.  Car- 
riage, 30  fr.  This  town  was  the  Eryx  of 
the  ancients.  At  its  highest  point  once 
stood  the  celebrated  Temple  of  Venus  Ery- 
cina.  The  sacrifices  here  offered  were  of 
a  very  peculiar  character.  Some  portion 
of  the  temple  still  remains. 

From  Trapani  to  Marsala,  distance  twen- 
ty miles. 

Marsala. — Hotel,  L'one.  The  modern 
commercial  town  was  founded  by  the  Sara- 
cens on  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Lilybseum. 
It  possessed  during  the  time  of  the  Ro- 
mans the  first  port  in  Italy.  It  was  de- 
stroyed by  Charles  X.  in  1532,  for  fear  it 
would  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Turks. 

Garibaldi  landed  here  the  10th  of  May. 
1860,  and  obtained  his  first  success  over 
the  Neapolitan  troops. 

There  is  nothing  of  importance  in  the 
town  with  the  exception  of  the  cathedral. 
The  town  owes  its  notoriety  principally  to 
the  celebrated  wine  of  Marsala,  which  is 
much  used  in  Spain  in  the  preparation  of 
sherry  wine. 

From  Marsala  to  Mazzara  ten  miles. 

Mazzara. — Hotel,  Garibaldi.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall,  and  contains  11,000  in- 
habitants. There  is  nothing  of  impor- 
900 


tance  to  see.  The  cathedral  contains  some 
restored  frescoes. 

From  Mazzara  to  Castelvetrano  twelve 
miles. 

Castelvetrano  is  a  town  of  19,000  inhab- 
itants. Hotel,  Pantera.  Here  visitors  make 
arrangements  for  guides  and  mules  to  visit 
the  ruins  of  Selinus.  The  distance  is  near- 
ly eight  miles.  Mule  there  and  back,  3  fr., 
with  pourboire. 

Selinunto,  or  Se'inus,  contains  the  most 
magnificent  ruins  of  Europe.  It  was  a 
colony  from  Megara,  founded  628  years  be- 
fore the  Christian  era.  The  colony  became 
very  rich,  and  was  frequently  at  war  with 
the  Egestans,  and  in  consequence  with  the 
Carthaginians,  by  whom  it  was  destroyed 
409  B.C.  It  was  again  rebuilt  with  great- 
er grandeur,  and  again  destroyed  by  the 
Saracens  in  827  A.D.  Different  earth- 
quakes have  nearly  demolished  what  was 
left  by  them.  Most  of  the  relics  left,  such 
as  sculptures,  etc.,  are  in  the  Museum  at 
Palermo.  Some  of  the  columns  lying  on 
the  ground  measure  with  their  capitals 
57  feet  long,  and  a  little  over  32  feet  cir- 
cumference at  the  base.  There  were  four 
temples  in  all. 

From  Castelvetrano  to  Girgenti  there  is 
no  road,  and  if  traveling  in  that  direction 
the  journey  must  be  accomplished  on 
horseback. 


ROUTE  No.  232. 

From  Girgenti  to  Syracuse,  via  Licata, 
Terranova,  Modica.  and  Palazzuolo.  This 
route  along  the  coast  requires  five  days. 
The  distance  may  be  accomplished  inland. 
Most  of  the  distance  by  railway  via  Castro- 
giovanni  (near  the  ancient  Enna). 

Girgenti,  described  in  Route  No.  230. 

The  distance  to  Palma,  which  contains 
nothing  of  interest,  is  thirteen  miles. 

Licata  (Hotel,  Bella  Sicilia)  contains 
15,000  inhabitants.  Here  formerly  stood 
an  ancient  Carthaginian  fortification.  The 


TERRANOVA. 


[SICILY.] 


SYRACUSE. 


town  is  situated  at  the  base  of  a  hill  where 
Phalaris  once  sacrificed  human  victims. 
Near  it  was  fought  the  great  naval  battle 
between  Kcgulus  and  the,  Carthaginians, 
in  which  :>00.0(iO  men  were  engaged.  The 
principal  commerce  of  the  town  is  the  ex- 
portation of  sulphur. 

The  road  toTerranova  is  destitute  of  in- 
terest, and  if  there  is  a  breeze  blowing,  a 
sail-boat  had  better  be  taken.  The  dis- 
tance is  seventeen  miles. 

Terranova,  a  seaport,  founded  by  the 
Emperor  Frederick  II.,  contains  14,000  in- 
habitants, but  nothing  of  interest  to  the 
traveler.  Near  it  formerly  stood  the  an- 
cient city  of  Gtla,  founded  690  years  be- 
fore the  Christian  era,  and  so  well  known 
in  Greek  and  Roman  history.  A  short  dis- 
tance from  the  town  are  the  remains  of  a 
Doric  temple. 

The  distance  from  Terranova  to  Vittoria 
is  fifteen  miles.  (Mule  5  fr.) 

Vittoria  (hotel,  Michele  Santonoritii)  con- 
tains 16,500  inhabitants.  Nothing  of  in- 
terest. Carriage  from  Vittoria  to  Modica 
20  fr. 

The  road  passes  through  the  town  of 
Comiitn,  where  at  one  period  stood  the  cel- 
ebrated l-'onntnin  of  Diann,  goddess  of 
Chastity,  the  water  of  which  would  not 
unite  with  wine  when  drawn  by  women  of 
easy  virtue. 

Ragusn  is  a  dirty  town,  but  romantical- 
ly situated,  and  contains  23,000  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  supposed  to  occupy  the  site  of 
the  ancient  Hybla  Heraea.  It  possesses 
some  cotton  factories. 

Modica  (hotel,  Bella  Italia)  contains 
28,000  inhabitants,  but  nothing  worthy  of 
notice. 

From  Modica  to  Palazzuolo,  one  day. 
For  guide  and  mule,  15  fr. 

PalfizzU'ilo. — Hotel,  Centra'e.  Popula- 
tion, 0000.  This  ancient  town  was  founded 
by  the  Syracusans,  on  the  site  of  an  older 
town  founded  by  the  Phoenicians.  It  was 
completely  destroyed  during  the  war  with 
the  Saracens.  The  Acropolis  stood  on  a 
hill  which  rises  above  the  modern  town. 
Here  also  stood  the  Greek  theatre,  the 
ruins  of  which  arc  still  visible.  Numer- 
ous aqueducts  and  tombs  of  Greek  origin. 

Diligence  daily  to  Syracuse.  Fare,  3  fr. 
50  c. 

Syracuse  (Siragosa  in  Italian). — Hotels, 
del  Sole  and  Vittoria.  Its  population  in 
VOL.  II.— Q  2 


ancient  times  was  500,000 — some  affirm 
1,000,000 ;  it  is  now  reduced  to  21,000.  It 
was  founded  by  the  Corinthians  in  735 
B.C.,  and  soon  became  the  first  of  all  the 
Sicilian  cities,  and  at  one  time  governed 
nearly  the  whole  of  Sicily.  In  416  B.C. 
the  Athenians  invaded  the  country,  but 
they  were  repulsed  in  even-  direction.  Un- 
der the  Democracy  the  Carthaginians  be- 
sieged the  country,  but  it  was  saved  by  Dio- 
nysius  I.,  who  soon  usurped  the  sovereign 
power  and  transmitted  it  to  his  son,  Dionys- 
ius  II.,  who  found  it  impossible  to  retain  it. 
A  frightful  anarchy  followed  his  expulsion. 
Dion,  Timoleon,  Agathocles,  and  Hieron  in 
their  turn  held  the  power,  and  Syracuse  be- 
came mistress  of  all  the  eastern  portion  of 
the  island,  while  Carthage  held  the  west. 
In  A.D.  878  it  was  captured  and  almost 
ruined  by  the  Saracens,  and  the  earth- 
quakes of  1694  and  1758  finished  its  ruin. 
Among  the  objects  of  antiquity  which  it 
now  possesses  is  the  Cathedral,  which  was 
converted  from  the  Temple  of  Minerva. 
The  famous  Fountain  of  A  rrthitsa,  the  glo- 
ry of  ancient  Syracuse,  is  now  degraded 
into  a  washing-tub.  The  "  Ear  of  D'umys- 
ms." — This  is  supposed  to  be  the  pris- 
on where  the  tyrant  Dionysius  incarcer- 
ated suspected  persons.  It  is  formed  in  the 
solid  rock  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  S,  nar- 
rowing gradually -toward  the  end.  Along 
the  prison  runs  a  groove,  which  collected 
the  sounds  of  the  voices.  By  applying  his 
car  to  the  end  of  the  groove  he  could  as- 
certain whether  his  suspicions  were  cor- 
rect. The  Catacombs  in  Arcadina  are  of 
vast  extent.  They  consist  of  one  princi- 
pal avenue,  with  smaller  ones  branching 
off,  cut  in  the  solid  rock.  The  recesses  on 
each  side  contain  cells  for  the  reception  of 
the  dead. 

The  Greek  Theatre,  one  of  the  largest  of 
its  kind,  was  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock. 
It  was  nearly  five  hundred  feet  in  diameter. 
It  is  of  semicircular  form,  and  there  are 
forty-three  rows  of  seats  still  visible. 

In  the  Lafomue,  or  prisons,  which  are 
cut  in  the  solid  rock,  of  great  depth,  open 
at  the  top,  but  with  steep  overhanging 
sides,  the  Syracusans  confined  the  rem- 
nant of  the  expedition  sent  by  Athens  to 
subjugate  them.  They  amounted  to  over 
TIIIIO  men.  They  were  here  shut  up  for 
two  months,  with  half  supply  of  food,  just 
sufficient  to  keep  them  alive,  exposed  to 
901 


LIPARI  ISLANDS. 


[SICILY.] 


CEFALD. 


the  vertical  sun  by  day  and  the  dews 
by  night,  without  any  method  to  preserve 
cleanliness,  and  coming  in  contact  every 
moment  with  the  sick,  dead,  and  dying. 
At  the  end  of  two  months,  those  few  who 
had  escaped  these  horrors  with  their  lives 
were  brought  out  and  sold  for  slaves.  This 
enterprise  was  the  largest  ever  fitted  out 
by  any  Greek  state  for  the  reduction  of  a 
foreign  power.  The  attention  of  all  the 
powers  was  fixed  on  this  expedition,  and 
all  Greece  was  sanguine  of  its  success; 
but  jealous}-  in  the  management  of  the 
undertaking  was  the  cause  of  its  defeat. 
Alcibiades,  whose  experience,  ability,  and 
decision  were  universally  acknowledged, 
was  removed,  and  the  command  given  to 
Nicias,  who  was  deficient  in  the  necessary 
qualifications.  The  consequence  was  the 
defeat  of  the  Athenian  fleet,  and  the  glory 
and  empire  of  Athens. 

The  siege  of  Syracuse  by  the  Romans, 
212  years  before  Christ,  is  one  of  the  most 
celebrated  in  ancient  history.  Here  the 
great  Archimedes  rendered  himself  famous  ; 
for  not  only  had  the  Romans  to  contend 
against  the  natural  strength  and  fortifica- 
tions of  the  city,  but  against  the  wonder- 
ful machines  first  invented  by  this  great 
mechanic.  The  city  never  could  have  been 
taken  but  for  the  treachery  of  one  of  the 
Syracusan  commanders. 

Archimedes,  Theocritus,  and  Moschus 
were  all  natives  of  Syracuse.  Up  to  the 
year  1693  Syracuse  was  a  city  of  great 
importance,  but  the  dreadful  earthquake 
of  that  year  laid  her  monuments  and  houses 
in  ruins. 

Palermo  to  Metsma,  by  steamer  direct,  in 
12  hours.  Fare,  exclusive  of  food,  25  fr. 
This  route  is  better  than  the  land  route. 

About  daybreak  we  pass  to  the  south  of 
the  celebrated  islands  of  Lipari,  or  Vulca-  < 
niae  of  the  Romans,  who  supposed  them  to 
be  inhabited  by  Vulcan,  god  of  fire,  from 
their  emitting  smoke  and  flames.  The  j 
principal  islands  are  seven  in  number,  viz., 
Lipari,  Stromboli,  Vulcano,  Salina,  Pana- 
ria,  Felicudi,  and  Alacudi.  Their  entire 
population  is  about  23,000.  They  are  all 
of  volcanic  origin.  Stromboli,  which  is 
the  most  northerly,  is  the  only  volcano  in 
Europe  which  is  constantly  emitting  smoke 
and  flames.  On  a  dark  night  the  reflec- 
tion of  its  flames  may  be  seen  on  the  ocean 
for  many  miles.  Lipari  and  Vulcano  have 
902 


also  craters,  which  are  occasionally  in  ac- 
tion. Earthquakes  are  of  frequent  occur- 
rence, but  the  climate  is  pure,  and  highly 
salubrious.  Lipari  is  the  great  mine  from 
whence  Europe  and  America  obtain  all  the 
pumice-stone  used ;  its  entire  soil  is  com- 
posed of  that  singular  substance ;  it  is  also 
plenty  at  Vulcano ;  it  is  worth  $50  per  ton 
in  the  English  market. 


ROUTE  No.  233. 

Palermo  to  Messina,  vi'i  Termini,  Patti, 
and  MUazzo.  By  rail  (since  fall,  1880). 
Time,  19  h.  35  m. ;  fare,  46  1.  85  c. 

Termini  (described  in  Route  No.  230), 
the  Himera  of  the  ancients,  where  Gelon 
surprised  the  Carthaginian  general  Hamil- 
car,  and  completely  destroyed  his  army. 

Cefalu,  an  industrious  seaport  town,  con- 
taining 12,000  inhabitants.  There  are  two 
inns,  both  passable.  The  town  is  com- 
manded by  a  high  rock,  where  formerly 
stood  an  ancient  structure,  supposed  to  be 
a  temple.  The  town  was  besieged  and 
carried  by  the  Arabs  in  859. 

At  the  foot  of  the  promontory  stands 
the  Cathedral,  built  in  the  Xorman  style 
of  architecture  in  the  form  of  the  Latin 
cross.  It  possesses  some  of  the  best  mo- 
saics in  Sicily,  executed  during  the  12th 
century.  This  church  formerly  contained 
the  two  sarcophagi  in  porphyry  now  in 
the  cathedral  at  Palermo.  They  were 
transferred  there  by  Frederick  II.  during 
the  absence  of  the  bishop,  who  on  his  re- 
turn excommunicated  Frederick,  but  after- 
ward became  reconciled  by  a  gift  of  land. 
There  is  a  small  collection  of  antiquities  to 
be  seen  here. 

Passing  Custel  di  Susa  and  A  laesa,  found- 
ed by  Archonides  in  403,  which  was  former- 
ly a  place  of  considerable  importance 
(up  the  valley  lies  the  modern  town  of 
Mistretta,  the  ancient  Amestratus,  which 
contains  11,000  inhabitants),  we  arrive  at 


PATH. 


[SICILY.] 


MESSINA. 


S.  Stefano  di  Camnstra,  a  small  seaport 
and  commercial  town  of  4500  inhabitants, 
doing  considerable  trade  in  cheese  and 
wool. 

The  principal  forest  in  Sicily  is  now 
crossed,  and  the  small  and  dirty  town  of 
.S'.  A  until  reached. 

Passing  the  ruins  of  the  palace  of  /V«- 
mara  Zapullu,  near  which  (Capo  Orlando) 
was  fought  the  great  naval  battle  between 
Frederick  II.  and  the  fleets  of  Catalonia 
and  Anjou. 

Patti  (hotel,  Antonia  Arrigd),  containing 
8000  inhabitants.  It  is  an  episcopal  resi- 
dence, and  contains  some  large  monasteries, 
and  a  cathedral  in  which  is  interred  Ade- 
lasia,  widow  of  King  Baldwin  of  Jerusalem, 
and  mother  of  King  Roger.  On  the  left 
rises  a  promontory,  nearly  1000  feet  high, 
on  which  st<xxl  the  ancient  Tynd  iris,  found- 
ed by  Dionysius  in  the  4th  century.  The 
barons  of  Siacca  possess  nearly  all  the  sur- 
rounding territory. 

Passing  the  town  of  Barcelona,  near 
which  the  famous  battle  occurred  in  which 
the  Syracusans  defeated  the  Mamertines  in 
270,.  we  arrive  at  Mi'azzo,  the  ancient  My- 
lac.  It  contains  11,000  inhabitants,  and 
has  a  line  harbor.  The  castle,  which  rises 
behind  the  to'.vn  and  completely  commands 
it,  was  erected  by  Charles  V.,  and  has  re- 
sisted several  sieges.  Garibaldi  in  1860 
compelled  the  Neapolitan  General  Boco  to 
capitulate  here,  previous  to  his  attack  on 
Messina. 

Messina,  the  ancient  Zancle,  was  found- 
ed by  a  colony  of  Cumaeans  in  732  B.C. 
Sixty-five  years  later  the  Messenian  fugi- 
tives augmented  the  colony,  and  called  it 
Messana.  Two  centuries  later  Messina 
was  taken  by  the  Mamertines,  and  be- 
came the  resort  of  brigands.  In  396  it 
•was  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  Cartha- 
ginian Himilco. 

Messina  sustained  a  long  siege  against 
Charles  of  Anjou  after  the  massacre  of  the 
Sicilian  Vespers.  In  1674  it  was  besieged 
by  the  Spaniards,  but  delivered  by  the 
French  under  the  Due  de  Vivonne  and 
Duquesne.  It  was  ravaged  by  the  plague 
in  1743,  and  by  the  earthquake  of  1783. 
It  was  bombarded  by  the  insurgents  in 
1848,  and  although  the  town  was  captured 
by  Garibaldi  early  in  August,  1860,  the 
fort  did  not  surrender  until  March  13, 
1861.  The  population,  including  the  sub- 


urbs, Ls  111,854  (census  of  1871).  It  is 
beautifully  situated  at  the  most  eastern 
part  of  the  island  of  Sicily,  on  the  strait 
of  the  same  name,  five  miles  from  Reggio, 
across  the  strait  on  the  Italian  side.  Mes- 
sina  is  the  second  city  in  Sicily.  Though 
smaller  than  Palermo,  it  is  superior  in 
commercial  importance.  Its  harbor  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  Europe,  and  its  environs 
are  the  best-cultivated  and  most  thicklv 
inhabited  part  of  Sicily.  The  principal 
hotel  is  the  Victories—  well  kept. 

One  or  two  days  may  be  well  spent  here. 
Messina  contains  numerous  curiosities, 
and  sonic  relics  which  few  cities  can 
boast.  One  of  the  relics  consists  of  an  au- 
tograph letter  written  by  the  Virgin  Mary 
to  the  Messenians,  in  which  she  assures 
them  that  she  has  taken  them  under  her 
special  care  and  protection !  She  also,  to 
make  assurance  doubly  sure,  and  estab- 
lish beyond  all  cavil  the  genuineness  of 
the  letter,  gave  a  lock  of  her  own  hair  to 
the  person  intrusted  with  the  conveyance 
of  the  letter!  The  Virgin  has  kept  her 
promise  on  several  occasions.  At  one  time, 
when  the  city  was  suffering  by  famine,  it 
was  saved  by  a  timely  arrival  of  a  supply 
of  corn  which  she  sent !  It  would  be  con- 
sidered unsafe  in  Messina  to  question  the 
genuineness  of  either  of  those  relics.  What 
a  pity  she  forgot  them  in  1783,  when  the 
whole  city  was  laid  in  ruins  by  an  earth- 
quake which  happened  in  that  year. 

The  city  has  a  very  fine  appearance  from 
the  streets.  It  is  in  form  of  a  crescent. 
From  the  palazzetta,  or  quay,  in  front, 
which  extends  over  two  miles,  and  at 
which  lie  all  the  shipping,  the  city  and 
background  rise  in  the  form  of  an  amphi- 
theatre. The  houses,  being  built  of  white 
stone,  contrast  finely  with  the  dark,  luxu- 
riant, cone-like  hills  in  the  rear.  The  prin- 
cipal street,  running  parallel  with  the  quay, 
is  bordered  with  fine  houses,  and  is  well 
paved  with  square  blocks  of  lava,  and  is 
ornamented  with  numerous  churches,  stat- 
ues,  and  fountains. 

The  principal  object  of  interest  in  Mes- 
sina is  the  Cathedral,  which  was  partly  de- 
stroyed by  the  earthquake  of  1783.  It  is 
situated  in  a  very  fine  square,  the  fountain 
in  the  centre  of  which  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  Sicily.  The  cathedral  was  erected  in 
the  early  part  of  the  12th  century,  soon 
after  the  conquest  of  Sicily  by  Roger  the 
903 


MESSINA. 


[SICILY.] 


TAORMINA. 


Norman.  It  is  a  Gothic  building,  with 
heavy  and  gloomy  exterior.  The  inte- 
rior, however,  is  richly  ornamented,  and 
corresponds  in  richness  to  the  facade.  The 
pulpit  is  beautifully  carved,  and  is  consid- 
ered the  masterpiece  of  the  Sicilian  sculp- 
tor Gaggini.  The  principal  altar  and  roof 
of  the  choir  are  adorned  with  mosaics  and 
precious  stones.  The  nave  is  supported 
by  immense  granite  columns  taken  from 
a  temple  of  Neptune.  Two  small  slabs  in 
the  nave  specify  the  privileges  granted  to 
the  city  by  Henry  VI. 

Close  to  the  church  notice  the  Fountain 
of  Montorsoli,  with  statues  of  the  Nile,  Ti- 
ber, Ebro,  and  Camara. 

The  other  churches  worthy  of  a  visit  are 
S.  Maria  dei  Catalani,  built  on  the  site  of 
a  temple  of  Neptune,  Monte  Virgine,  An- 
nunciation, and  St.  Giorgio.  The  last  be- 
longs to  the  convent  of  the  Bernardines, 
and  requires  some  exercise  to  mount  the 
hill.  Among  the  pictures  in  this  church 
is  one  by  Stefano  Giordano,  and  one  by 
Antonio  Felocamo.  The  marbles  and 
inlaid-work  are  very  rich. 

The  Viceroy's  Pa'ace  stands  at  the  south- 
ern end  of  the  city.  It  is  a  fine  building. 
Adjoining  are  the  public  walks,  beautiful- 
ly decorated. 

The  University  contains  the  Library, 
Picture -Gallery,  and  Museum,  none  of 
which  are  of  very  much  importance :  fee, 
1  franc. 

The  Harbor  is  well  defended  by  a  cita- 
del, provided  with  bomb-quarter  and  stores 
on  the  Vauban  principle.  There  are  also 
two  well-built  forts  above  the  town,  and 
one  commanding  the  mouths  of  the  Fiu- 
mare.  The  harbor  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
the  world ;  first-class  men-of-war  can  lie 
in  any  part  of  the  basin,  and  the  largest- 
sized  traders  can  be  accommodated  with 
perfect  safety  at  any  part  of  its  immense 
quay.  To  this  port  and  harbor,  and  also 
to  her  situation  between  Italy  and  Sicily, 
Messina  is  wholly  indebted  for  her  pros- 
perity and  her  great  advantages  as  a  com- 
mercial entrepot.  The  principal  exports 
consist  of  oranges,  lemons,  wines,  olive-oil, 
olives,  silk,  rags,  and  corn. 

Messina  has  two  theatres  and  an  opera- 
house.  The  last  is  one  of  the  finest  in 
Europe,  and  the  company  employed  first 
class. 

Cabs  in  the  town,  50  c.  the  course ;  to 
904 


the    station   or  steamboat  landing,  1  fr. ; 
with  two  horses,  2  fr.  per  hour. 

Steamers  to  Naples  live  times  each  week. 


KOUTE  No.  234. 

Messina  to  Syracuse,  via  Ad  Reale  and 
Catania ;  from  whence  the  ascent  to  Mt. 
Etna  is  made.  Time,  6  h.  20  m. ;  fare, 
first  class,  20  fr.  60  c. ;  second  class,  14  fr. 
40  c. 

This  is  quite  an  interesting  route,  as  the 
road  passes  through  numerous  well  popu- 
lated handsome  villages. 

Scaletta,  the  residence  of  the  Princess 
Scaletta,  whose  handsome  castle  is  seen 
near  the  station.  Passing  Ala,  which  con- 
tains numerous  sulphur  baths,  and  Giardi- 
ni,  where  Garibaldi  crossed  the  bay  to  Ca- 
labria in  1860, 

Taormina  is  reached  (hotel,  Bella  Vedu- 
ta~),  containing  3000  inhabitants  and  nu- 
merous relics  of  antiquity,  among  others  a 
well-preserved  Greek  Theatre ;  it  is  hewn 
out  of  a  solid  rock,  360  feet  in  diameter. 
It  was  partially  restored  in  1748. 

Taormina  also  possesses  several  medie- 
val structures,  such  as  the  palace  S.  Stffa- 
no  and  the  C(i*a  Corvtijn.  The  views  in 
the  vicinity  are  exceedingly  beautiful. 

Passing  Giardini,  the  railway  traverses 
the  lava  stream  of  Mt.  Etna,  and  the  town 
of 


CATANIA. 


[SICILY.] 


CATANIA. 


Giarre,  whence  a  fine  view  of  Mt.  Etna, 
and  arrives  at 

Aci  Jieale,  a  town  of  35,787  inhabitants, 
including  its  suburbs.  Hotels,  des  Bains 
and  Trinnacria.  It  was  completely  de- 
stroyed by  an  earthquake  in  Itj'j;!,  and  is 
now  erected  on  different  strata  of  lava 
streams.  Huron  Pasquale  1'ennisi  has  a 
fine  collection  of  Sicilian  coins.  The  place 
contains  mineral  baths,  which  are  highly 
recommended. 

Nine  miles  farther  lies  the  town  of 

Catania,  the  third  city  in  the  island  of 
Sicily,  containing  84.500  inhabitants.  Ho- 
tels, Centrale  and  Catania.  The  plan  of 
the  city  is  very  line.  Every  thing,  how- 
ever, around  you  is  made  of  the  fell  de- 
stroyer, lava.  The  mole  which  protects 
the  harbor  is  lava,  the  houses  are  built  of 
lava,  the  streets  are  paved  with  lava ;  their 
furniture,  toys,  ever}'  thing  is  lava;  and 
this  saini>  lava,  by  its  own  decomposition, 
has  covered  the  plains  of  Sicily  in  this  di- 
rection with  the  most  fertile  soil  in  the 
world.  Catania  has  a  beautiful  appearance 
from  the  sea,  and  landing  does  not  dispel 
the  illusion.  The  streets  are  regular,  spa- 
cious, and  handsome,  lined  with  elegant 
houses,  churches,  convents,  palaces,  and 
public  establishments.  Owing  to  the  fre- 
quent earthquakes,  nearly  all  the  ancient 
monuments  have  been  destroyed.  There 
still  remain,  however,  remnants  of  an  am- 
phitheatre larger  than  the  Coliseum  at 
Rome,  a  hippodrome,  odeum,  and  theatre, 
with  numerous  temples,  aqueducts,  baths, 
and  fountains.  The  principal  manufact- 
ure here  is  silk.  The  city  exports  largely 
snow  from  Mt.  Etna,  wine,  olive-oil,  olives, 
figs,  soda,  and  manure. 

The  city  was  founded  by  the  Chalcidians 
in  730  B.C.  In  addition  to  the  number  of 
times  it  has  been  destroyed  by  earthquakes, 
it  has  suffered  much  from  the  eruptions  of 
Mt.  Etna.  In  that  of  16G9  18,000  souls 
perished. 

The  Cathedral,  founded  by  Roger  I.  in 
1001,  was  nearly  destroyed  by  the  earth- 
quake of  1169  ;  some  few  portions  of  the 
original  edifice  alone  remain. 

The  Hixrtn-i  Miise.um  contains  a  fine  col- 
lection of  antiquities  and  coins. 

The  former  Benedictine  Monastery  r>f  St. 
Nicula,  used  as  a  barrack  since  1866,  was 
one  of  the  largest  in  Europe.  In  1693  it 
was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake.  The 


present  edifice  was  erected  in  1735,  and  con- 
tains a  church  (the  largest  in  Sicily)  in 
which  is  one  of  the  finest  organs  in  the 
world.  There  is  also  a  museum  and  libra- 
ry. The  view  from  the  garden  is  superb. 

There  is  a  botanical  garden  attached  to 
the  University,  and  a  public  garden  where 
the  band  plays  every  other  evening  during- 
the  summer. 

Catania  is  an  admirable  place  for  inva- 
lids, and  is  considered  better  than  Palermo, 
as  the  temperature  is  much  higher,  and  the 
east  wind  is  trifling  during  the  winter. 

Steamers  three  times  a  week  to  Messina 
and  twice  a  week  to  Malta. 


905 


Mr.  ETNA. 


[MALTA.] 


PEOPLE. 


EXCURSION  TO  MT.  ETNA. 

This  excursion  requires  two  days,  and 
should  only  be  made  in  the  months  of 
July,  August,  and  September,  on  moonlight 
nights  if  possible.  Provisions  should  be 
taken  from  Catania.  Carriages  to  Nicolosi, 
three  horses,  30  fr. ;  here  the  carriage  waits 
all  night  to  bring  back  the  excursionists 
next  day.  Guide,  including  fee,  10  fr. ; 
mules,  5  fr.  each  (one  for  the  guide). 

From  Nicolosi  to  Casa  Inglese,  7  hours; 
there  rest.  Be  certain  to  bring  rugs  and 
coats,  as  in  the  hottest  weather  it  is  here 
very  chilly. 

From  the  Casa  Inglese  to  the  summit  is 
a  walk  of  1  h.  30  m. :  be  certain  to  start  in 
time  to  see  the  sun  rise — one  of  the  most 
glorious  sights  possible  for  a  mortal  to  be- 
hold. The  circumference  of  the  crater  is 
from  two  to  three  miles.  Mt.  Etna  is 
10,560  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
its  circumference  around  the  base  is  112 
miles.  The  Casa  Inglese  is  1100  feet  from 
the  summit. 

The  eruptions  of  Mt.  Etna  have  been 
known  from  time  immemorial.  In  fabled 
history  Etna  is  represented  as  the  prison 
of  the  giants  Enceladus  and  Typholus  ; 
also  the  place  where  Vulcan  and  the 
Cyclops  forged  the  thunder  of  Jupiter. 
The  most  terrible  eruptions  of  modern 
times  were  those  of  1183,  when  15,000  per- 
sons lost  their  lives  ;  in  1669,  20,000  were 
destroyed ;  in  1673,  60,000  souls  perished ; 
with  lesser  numbers  in  1809,  1830,  and 
1843.  Vegetation  at  the  base  and  on  the 
sides  of  Etna  is  magnificent,  and  trees 
grow  to  an  immense  size  on  the  lava. 

From  Catania  to  Syracuse,  see  Route  No. 
229. 

Steamers  leave  Syracuse  for  Malta 
weekly  :  leaving  at  11  P.M.,  and  arriving 
at  Malta  the  next  day  at  8  A.M.,  9  hours. 

Steamers  also  leave  Messina  for  Malta 
weekly,  also  weekly  to  Constantinople, 
also  weekly  for  Alexandria. 

Messina  to  Athens. — Steamers  leave  ev- 
ery Sunday  at  midnight,  and  arrive  at  the 
Piraeus  on  Wednesday  morning ;  fare, 
140  fr. 


906 


MALTA. 

Malta  is  an  island  in  the  Mediterranean 
Sea  belonging  to  Great  Britain.  It  is  sit- 
uated about  50  miles  to  the  south  of  Sicily, 
and  has  a  population  (exclusive  of  Gozzo) 
of  110,000.  Gozzo,  which  lies  to  the  north- 
west, has  a  population  of  17,000.  This  isl- 
and, though  small  in  size,  is  of  vast  im- 
portance for  the  protection  of  British  com- 
merce in  the  Mediterranean,  and  as  a  coal- 
ing depot  for  steamers  to  the  East.  It  is 
about  17  miles  long  by  9  broad,  and  is  nat- 
urally a  barren  rock.  The  greater  part  of 
it,  however,  is  finely  cultivated,  and  plant- 
ed with  cotton,  wheat,  barley,  and  other 
grains.  The  pastures  of  the  island  of  Goz- 
zo are  very  extensive,  and  cattle  are  raised 
for  the  more  numerous  population  of  Mal- 
ta. Both  islands  produce  oranges,  lemons, 
grapes,  and  other  fruits  of  excellent  qual- 
ity. Besides  the  food  produced  by  the  soil, 
extensive  fisheries  are  carried  on  for  the 
daily  supply  of  the  market. 

The  Maltese  are  in  general  of  an  ordi- 
nary stature,  strong,  robust,  and  of  a  brown 
complexion.  They  are  of  a  mixed  race, 
and  speak  a  dialect  which  bears  much  re- 
semblance to  the  Arabic  spoken  on  the  op- 
posite shores  of  Africa.  They  are  full  of 
fire,  and  endowed  with  a  penetrating  imag- 
ination. They  possess  very  lively  pas- 
sions, and  are  tenacious  in  their  opinions, 
in  their  love,  and  in  their  hate ;  are  labori- 
ous and  frugal,  living  on  very  slender  fare. 
They  are  Roman  Catholic  in  their  religion, 
and  are  generally  ignorant  and  supersti- 
tious. Most  persons  in  trade  speak  the  Ital- 
ian language  as  well  as  English;  the  lat- 
ter is  now  taught  in  the  common  schools. 
About  one  tenth  of  the  entire  population 
are  English  and  other  foreigners,  the  bal- 
ance are  natives. 

The  Maltese  have  in  general  adopted 
the  costume  of  the  Franks,  but  the  native 
dress  is  still  worn  by  the  lower  orders. 
This  consists,  first,  of  a  long  bag,  made  of 
wool,  for  a  cap ;  it  is  dyed  various  colors, 
and  hangs  down  behind ;  the  top  part  is 
used  for  a  purse,  or  forms  a  receptacle  for 
any  small  articles  the  wearer  wishes  to 


PEOPLK. 


[MALTA.] 


HlSTORT. 


carry  about  him.     A  short   loose  panta- 
loon, which   leaves  the   leg   bare  to   the 
knee,  is  confined  round  the  waist  witli  a 
girdle  of  cotton  or  silk.     A  cotton  shirt, 
with  a  short  loose  waistcoat  covering  the  i 
same  ;  in  i::any  cases  the  vest  is  ornament- 
ed with  rows  of  silver  buttons,  quarter  dol- 
lars, or  English  shillings.      The  costume  j 
of  the  ladies  of  Malta  consists  of  a  black 
silk  petticoat,  bound  round  the  waist,  over  j 
a  I  .oily  of  some  other  kind  of  silk  or  print :  , 
thLi  is  called  a  half  onnella.     The  upper 
part  Ls  called  the  onnella,  and  is  made  of 
the  sume  material  as  the  former,  drawn  up 
into  neat  gathers  for  the  length  of  a  foot 
about  the  centre  of  one  of  the  outer  seams ; 
in  the  seam  of  one  of  the  remaining  divi- 
•ions  is  inclosed  a  thin  piece  of  whalebone,  : 
which  is  drawn  over  the  head,  and  forms  , 
an  elegant  arch,  leaving  the  face  and  neck 
perfectly  open.      The  left  arm  is  covered 
with  one  part  of  this  habit,  and  the  right 
is  used  for  keeping  down  the  angle  of  the  : 
other.     The  whole  is  extremely  neat,  but  i 
requires  a  peculiar  grace  in  walking  to 
show  it  off  to  advantage. 

The  dress  of  the  peasantry  is  very  simi- 
lar to  that  worn  by  the  ladies,  differing 
only  in  material,  which  consists  of  striped 
native  cotton  of  a  substantial  quality.  It 
is  not  customary  for  the  poor  females  of 
the  country  to  wear  shoes,  though  they  all 
like  to  have  a  pair.  Eager,  in  his  history 
of  Malta,  says  a  country  woman,  making 
preparations  to  visit  the  town,  asked  her 
companion  how  long  she  had  had  her  shoes; 
the  answer  was,  "  Since  the  time  of  the 
plague"  (1813).  "Oh,"  replied  the  other, 
"  mine  are  much  older  than  yours,  for  I 
have  had  them  since  the  blockade  of  the 
French." 

It  is  now  universally  acknowledged  that 
Malta  was  first  occupied  by  the  Phoeni- 
cians, who  were  driven  out  by  the  Greeks. 
After  the  siege  of  Troy  many  of  the  Greeks 
returned  to  their  homes,  the  rest  scattered 
themselves  over  the  islands  of  the  Medi-  ! 
terranean.  Some  of  them  settled  in  Sicily, 
and  built  Syracuse  and  Agrigenti. 

In  the  year  3620.  the  Carthaginians,  who 
had  settled  themselves  along  the  northern 
coast  of  Africa,  seized  upon  Sicily  and  Mal- 
ta. It  was  not  without  a  great  effusion  of 
blood  that  the  Greeks  were  driven  from 
Malta,  as  they  were  continually  receiving 
re-enforceuients  from  Sicily,  but  under  the 


conduct  of  Hannibal,  the  famous  Cartha- 
ginian general,  they  were  defeated.  A 
large  square  stone,  with  an  inscription  in 
the  Punic  language,  marks  the  burial- 
place  of  Hannibal :  it  is  near  Ben  Ghi<a. 

The  thriving  condition  of  Malta  excited 
the  cupidity  of  the  Romans,  who,  after  two 
expeditions,  took  possession  about  the  com- 
mencement of  the  second  Punic  war.  The 
Romans  did  every  thing  they  could  to  con- 
ciliate the  inhabitants,  who  were  strongly 
attached  to  the  Carthaginians  by  a  com- 
mon origin  and  language.  They  respected 
their  laws,  permitted  them  to  coin  their 
own  money,  and  m.tdc  them  eligible  to  any 
office  in  the  republic. 

The  Goths,  who  had  overrun  and  made 
themselves  masters  of  Italy  and  Sicily, 
and  had  pillaged  and  sacked  Carthage, 
arrived  at  Malta  about  the  year  506  ;  and 
after  occupying  it  for  37  years,  were  ex- 
pelled by  the  army  of  Justinian,  under  the 
command  of  Belisarius.  The  island  now 
remained  under  the  dominion  of  the  Em- 
perors of  Constantinople  until  the  year 
879,  when  the  Saracens,  who  had  already 
overrun  all  the  East  and  conquered  Spain, 
Portugal,  Italy,  and  part  of  France,  made 
a  descent  on  the  island  of  Gozzo,  and  mas- 
sacred all  the  Greeks.  From  Gozzo  the}' 
crossed  to  Malta,  which  nobly  resisted  for 
a  length  of  time,  but  was  at  last  obliged  to 
succumb  to  superior  force.  The  Saracens, 
upon  taking  possession  of  Malta,  exterm- 
inated all  the  Greeks,  and  made  slaves  of 
their  wives  and  children.  They  treated 
the  Maltese,  however,  with  every  mark  of 
respect,  and  allowed  them  the  free  exercise 
of  their  own  religion.  The  advantages  of 
the  situation  of  Malta  soon  made  itself  ap- 
parent to  the  Saracens.  Its  numerous  har- 
bors gave  them  shelter  in  their  piratical 
excursions,  and  they  erected  a  fort  on  the 
present  site  of  St.  Angelo  to  secure  their 
vessels  from  danger  of  attack.  They  also 
added  new  walls  to  those  already  erected 
around  the  Citta  Notabile.  After  they 
had  remained  in  quiet  possession  of  the 
island  for  220  years,  Count  Roger,  son  of 
the  celebrated  Tancrede  de  Hauteville, 
in  company  with  his  brother  William,  ex- 
pelled th'-m  from  Malta,  as  also  from  Sic- 
ily and  Naples. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  islands,  regarding 
Roger  as  their  deliverer,  proposed  to  name 
him  sovereign,  which  he  accepted ;  he  was 
907 


HlSTORT. 


[MALTA.] 


HISTORY. 


accordingly  crowned  King  of  Sicily  and 
Malta,  notwithstanding  the  opposition  of 
the  Emperor  of  Constantinople  and  the 
Pope  of  Rome.  Roger  treated  the  Maltese 
with  great  kindness ;  he  founded  and  en- 
riched many  churches ;  he  allowed  the 
Saracens  to  stamp  their  gold  coin  with 
"  There  is  only  one  God,  and  Mohammed 
is  the  prophet  of  God,"  on  one  side,  and  on 
the  other,  "King  Roger." 

After  the  death  of  Roger  II.,  Constance, 
his  only  daughter,  who  had  espoused  Hen- 
ry VI.,  emperor  of  Germany,  of  the  house 
of  Swabia,  ceded  the  islands  of  Malta  and 
Sicily  to  her  husband  and  the  future  em- 
perors of  Germany.  Malta  remained  un- 
der the  government  of  the  German  em- 
perors for  72  years,  during  which  time  the 
natives  signalized  themselves  greatly  by 
their  valor  at  sea.  One  of  their  admirals 
attacked  and  destroyed  a  squadron  of  the 
republic  of  Pisa,  which  had  come  to  lay 
siege  to  Syracuse,  and  took  the  island  of 
Candia  from  the  Venetians,  after  having 
shattered  their  fleet  and  taken  prisoner 
their  admiral,  Andrea  Dandolo. 

Manfred,  the  natural  son  of  Frederick 
II.,  formed  the  horrible  design  of  poison- 
ing his  father,  and  making  himself  master 
of  his  dominions.  The  cruel  oppressions 
and  tyrannical  proceedings  of  this  usurper 
excited  a  rebellion  of  the  Maltese  and  Si- 
cilians against  his  government,  and  finally 
caused  Pope  Urban  IV.  to  absolve  all  his 
subjects  from  their  allegiance  to  him.  To 
save  the  consequences  of  such  powerful 
opposition,  he  offered  his  daughter  Con- 
stance in  marriage  to  Peter,  son  of  James. 
king  of  Aragon.  This  alliance,  however, 
had  no  other  effect  upon  Urban  than  of 
completing  his  enmity  toward  Manfred ; 
and  without  any  right,  except  that  pre- 
sumptuously assumed  by  his  predecessors,  j 
he  invested  Charles  of  Anjou,  king  of  j 
France,  with  the  possession  of  Sicily  and  j 
Naples,  and  their  dependent  states.  This  I 
proceeding  was  unjustly  confirmed  by  his 
successor,  Clement  IV..  who  reserved  to 
himself  the  duchies  of  Benevento  and 
Ponto  Corvo,  in  the  kingdom  of  Naples, 
and  a  yearly  tribute  of  40,000  crowns, 
which  Charles  obligated  himself  to  pay  to 
the  Papal  See  on  St.  Peter's  Day.  A  bat- 
tle, which  took  place  between  the  forces  of 
Charles  and  Manfred,  on  the  plains  of  Ben- 
evento, on  the  26th  of  February,  1266,  de- 
908 


cided  the  fate  of  the  kingdom  in  favor  of 
the  former.  Manfred  met  the  just  punish- 
ment of  his  parricide  and  his  other  crimes 
by  being  slain  on  the  field,  and  his  wife 
and  children  were  taken  prisoners  by  the 
conqueror. 

The  daughter  of  Manfred,  whose  hus- 
band was  now  King  of  Aragon,  with  the 
title  of  Peter  III.,  used  all  her  influence 
to  inspire  him  to  assert  his  claims  to  the 
kingdom  of  Sicily  and  Malta.  The  tyr- 
anny of  Charles  had  already  rendered  him  " 
obnoxious  to  the  people  over  whom  he 
governed,  and  it  was  not  long  before  a 
desperate  attempt  was  formed  by  a  private 
Sicilian  gentleman,  who  was  secretly  at- 
tached to  Peter,  to  massacre  all  the  French 
in  the  kingdom  at  a  given  signal.  This 
famous  conspiracy,  known  by  the  name  of 
the  "Sicilian  Vespers,"  was  carried  into 
effect  on  Easter  Day  of  the  year  1282,  dur- 
ing which  the  King  of  Aragon  was  pro- 
claimed sovereign  of  Sicily,  and  publicly 
crowned  in  the  Cathedral  at  Palermo. 
Charles  was  in  Tuscany  when  the  news 
of  this  tragical  event  reached  him  ;  he  im- 
mediately set  about  making  endeavors  to 
gain  his  lost  authority ;  but  his  fleet,  com- 
manded by  his  son,  was  discomfited  by  Ad- 
miral Roger,  who  commanded  the  vessels 
of  the  Aragonese. 

The  island  of  Malta,  having  suffered  so 
much  from  the  dissensions  of  its  successive 
masters,  was  now  destined  to  undergo  even 
worse  treatment  from  the  individuals  to 
whom  it  was  successively  given  as  a  fief 
by  the  kings  of  Aragon  and  Castile.  Not- 
withstanding the  solemn  promises  made  by 
King  Louis,  son  of  Peter  II.,  at  the  just 
and  earnest  representations  of  the  Maltese, 
that  the  island  should,  in  future,  be  con- 
sidered as  unalienable  from  the  crown  of 
Sicily,  it  was  twice  afterward  mortgaged 
by  King  Martin — first  to  Don  Antonio  Cor- 
dova, and  subsequently  to  Don  Gonsalvo 
Monroi— for  the  sum  of  30,000  florins.  The 
Maltese,  wearied  with  making  useless  com- 
plaints, resolved  to  pay  to  Martin  the  sum 
for  which  the  island  was  pledged.  This 
offer  was  accepted ;  and  in  the  year  1350, 
bv  a  public  act  of  the  king,  it  was  decreed 
that  the  islands  of  Malta  and  Gozzo  should 
henceforth  never  be  separated  from  the 
kingdom  of  Sicily,  and  that  their  inhabit- 
ants should  enjoy  equal  privileges  with 
those  of  Palermo,  Messina,  and  Catania. 


HISTORY. 


[MALTA.] 


HISTORY. 


In  1516  this  entire  kingdom  passed  into 
the  hands  of  Charles  V.  of  Germany,  the 
heir  of  all  the  Spanish  dominions.  Not- 
withstanding his  confirmation  of  the  pre- 
vious declaration  of  his  predecessors  con- 
cerning the  perpetual  junction  of  Malt-i 
with  Sicily,  this  emperor,  for  political  rea- 
sons, re-oUed  to  cede  the  island  to  the  Or- 
der of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  the  remains 
of  which  were  at  that  time  at  Viterbo.  in 
the  Papal  States.  The  act  of  the  donation 
is  dated  at  Castel  Franco,  near  Boulogne, 
March  23.  1530 ;  and  the  document  of  the 
acceptance  of  the  gift,  by  the  council  of 
the  Order,  April  25  of  the  same  year.  The 
fiibst  tnce  of  the  act  was  as  follows  : 

That  the  Emperor  Charles  V..  king  of 
Sicily,  gave  to  the  Order  of  St.  John  of 
Jerusalem,  in  his  name  and  in  that  of  his 
successors,  the  islands  of  Malta,  Gozzo, 
and  Comino,  with  Tripoli  in  Africa,  as  a 
free  and  noble  lief,  with  all  the  privileges 
of  the  sovereignty,  under  these  conditions : 
1.  That  every  year  the  Order  should  pre- 
sent a  falcon  to  the  King  or  Viceroy  of 
Sicily.  2.  That  the  bishopric  of  Malta 
should  always  be  nominated  by  the  king. 
3.  That  the  chief  admiral  of  the  fleet  should 
always  be  an  Italian.  4.  That  they  should 
preserve  to  the  Maltese  all  their  rights  and 
privileges.  The  Grand  Master,  having  ac- 
cepted these  conditions, -embarked  to  take 
—ion  of  the  island,  where  he  arrived 
on  the  26th  of  October,  1530,  accompanied 
by  a  great  many  knights  and  principal  of- 
ficers of  the  Order. 

During  the  reign  of  John  de  la  Valettc, 
founder  of  the  city  called  by  his  name, 
Malta  was  destined  to  undergo  its  severest 
attack  from  the  hands  of  the  Turks.  It 
was  besieged  by  a  powerful  armament  for 
four  months,  but  without  success,  De  Va- 
lette  having  succeeded  in  repelling  all 
their  attacks,  and  compelling  them,  in  the 
end,  to  retreat  with  vast  loss.  The  Order 
maintained  possession  of  the  island  for  the 
space  of  26*  years.  About  the  year  1730 
it  suffered  serious  losses  by  the  extinction 
of  many  of  its  commanders  in  Germany. 
Spain,  Sicily.  Portugal,  and  Aragon ;  and 
in  171)2  an  edict  of  France  was  issued,  de- 
claring the  Order  extinct  \\ithin  the  French 
territories,  and  it~  ]»><-es<i<>ns  were  an- 
nexed to  the  national  domains.  To  show 
the  dilapidated  state  of  the  revenue,  it  need 
only  be  mentioned  that  the  receipt*,  which 


!  in  1788  were  three  millions  of  livres,  were 
in  1797  reduced  to  one  million. 

The  French  government,  which  had  for 
some  time  manifested  a  spirit  of  hostility 
to  the  Order,  now  came  forward  to  display 
it  openly.  The  first  division  of  the  French 
fleet  arrived  before  the  port  of  Malta  on 
the  6th  of  June,  1798.  On  the  9th,  Gen- 
eral  Bonaparte,  with  the  remainder  of  the 
squadron,  stood  off  the  island,  and,  through 
his  consul,  Carson,  demanded  free  admis- 
sion for  the  whole  fleet.  This  demand  be- 

:  ing  refused,  the  same  day  the  French  be- 
gan to  disembark  at  the  Bay  of  St.  Madda- 
leiia,  and  carried  the  small  fort  of  St. 
George  without  the  loss  of  a  single  life. 

I  The  next  day  the  French  army  had  se- 
cured all  the  important  posts  in  the  coun- 
try, and  had  advanced  beneath  the  walls 
of  the  city,  when  the  greatest  uproar  pre- 
vailed among  the  people  on  account  of  the 
treachery  that  had  been  discovered  among 
several  knights  of  the  Order.  Six  days 
after  the  landing  a  council  was  called,  and 
it  was  resolved  to  yield  up  the  city  into 
the  hands  of  the  besiegers.  No  sooner 
did  the  French  find  themselves  the  uncon. 
trolled  masters  of  the  island  than  they  en- 
joined all  the  knights  to  quit  within  three 
days.  About  $50  were  advanced  to  each 
for  the  expenses  of  his  journey;  but  he 
was  not  permitted  to  depart  until  he  had 
torn  the  cross  from  his  breast  and  mount- 
ed the  tri-colored  cockade.  By  the  articles 
of  capitulation,  the  French  engaged  to  pay 
the  Grand  Master  an  annual  pension  of 
300,000  livrc»,  and  to  each  French  knight 
resident  in  Malta  a  yearly  allowance  of 
700  livres. 

The  French  fleet,  under  the  command 
of  General  Bonaparte,  sailed  from  Malta 
in  June,  carrying  with  them  all  the  rari- 
ties found  in  the  public  treasury,  together 
with  all  the  standards  and  trophies  belong- 
ing to  the  Order,  none  of  which  ever  reach- 
ed their  destination.  They  were  contained 
in  two  ships,  the  Orient  and  Semsiblf — the 
former  was  blown  up  in  the  battle  of 
Aboukir,  and  the  latter  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  British.  The  French  soldiery  com- 
mitted so  many  depredations  throughout 
the  island,  suspending  the  pensions  to 
charitable  institutions,  and  despoiling  the 
churches,  that  the  population  became  fu- 
rious, and,  when  an  attempt  waa  made 

;  to  sell  the  decorations   of  the  cathedral 
909 


VALETTA, 


[MALTA.] 


VALETTA. 


church  of  Citt^  Notabile,  sixty  soldiers, 
with  their  commander,  were  massacred  by 
the  people.  From  this  time  all  commu- 
nications between  the  city  and  country 
ceased,  and  Valette  was  reduced  to  a  state 
of  blockade. 

About  this  time  it  was  blockaded  by  the 
English  and  Portuguese  fleets.  The  Por- 
tuguese admiral  was  left  alone  to  maintain 
the  blockade  during  the  temporary  absence 
of  the  English  squadron ;  on  the  return 
of  which  a  fresh  summons  was  sent  for 
the  place  to  surrender.  Early  in  Decem- 
ber the  same  was  repeated,  which  was 
firmly  and  laconically  answered  in  the 
negative.  The  blockade  had  now  lasted 
six  months,  and  the  city  exhibited  a  scene 
of  frightful  privation.  The  besiegers 
would  not  permit  any  person  to  leave  the  | 
town,  knowing  that  their  doing  so  would 
relieve  the  garrison.  Disease  added  its 
ravages  to  the  general  suffering,  and  sol- 
diers and  citizens  became  alike  its  victims.  , 
Month  after  month  passed  heavily  over, 
and  in  August,  1800,  the  citizens  being  to- 
tally beggared,  the  army  was  put  on  half 
pay.  Four  months  afterward  it  was  en- 
tirely stopped,  and  their  rations  greatly 
lessened.  Still  they  bore  all  with  aston- 
ishing fortitude,  being  supported  with  the 
hope  of  speedy  deliverance.  At  length 
the  news  of  the  interception  of  the  sup- 
plies, and  their  capture  by  the  English, 
disheartened  many,  though  it  did  not  de- 
cide them  to  capitulate.  The  condition  of 
the  town  was  dreadful  beyond  description. 
Fresh  pork  brought  two  dollars  a  pound ;  ' 
rats  sold  at  an  exorbitant  price ;  dogs  and  j 
cats  were  generally  eaten,  and  horses, 
asses,  and  mules  were  similarly  converted 
into  food.  On  the  8th  of  Septe'mber,  1800, 
a  parley  was  held  with  the  besiegers,  when  ! 
the  terms  of  capitulation  were  arranged  I 
and  ratified.  The  following  morning  the 
French  sailed  away,  after  having  endured  ! 
an  obstinate  blockade  for  two  years. 

In  the  year  1814,  agreeable  to  the  reso- 
lution of  the  Congress  of  Vienna,  the  isl- 
ands of  Malta,  Comino,  and  Gozzo.  were 
confirmed  to  the  English  crown,  and  they 
have  ever  since  been  considered  by  all  the 
powers  of  Europe  as  a  British  dependency. 

Valetta.  —  The  streets  of  Valetta,   the 
principal  city  of  Malta,  are  regular  and 
well   paved,  but,  from   the  declivity   on  I 
which  some  part  of  the  city  is  built,  many  | 
910 


of  them  are  steep,  with  side-walks  com- 
jx'sed  of  stairs.  They  are  kept  remark- 
ably clean,  being  swept  every  morning. 
The  houses,  which  are  built  of  stone,  and 
i  are  generally  of  three  stories,  have  all  Ikt- 
!  roofed  terraces,  which  serves  the  double 
purpose  of  being  an  agreeable  resort  for  a 
walk,  and  a  receptacle  for  the  rain  which 
i  falls  during  the  winter,  from  whence  it 
runs  into  the  cistern  with  which  every 
dwelling  is  provided. 

The  principal  hotels.  Impend,  Cambridge, 
and  d' Angleterre.  Population,  70,000. 

Valetta  is  built  upon  a  tongue  of  land 
extending  into  a  bay,  forming  two  splendid 
harbors ;  one  called  the  Great  Harbor,  the 
other  the  Quarantine  Harbor.  The  former 
is  used  for  government  vessels  alone,  the 
latter  for  foreign  vessels,  and  those  in 
quarantine.  The  city  is  closed  by  three 
gates :  Pvrta  Reale,  which  leads  to  the  coun- 
try; Porta  Marsamuscetto,  which  leads  to 
the  Quarantine  Harbor,  and  through  which 
all  strangers  enter  the  city ;  and  the  Mari- 
na Gate,  from  the  Great  Harbor. 

The  fortifications  which  surround  the 
town  are  very  high,  and  many  of  them 
formed  out  of  the  solid  rock.  The  walls 
measure  about  15  feet  wide,  and  are  com- 
posed chiefly  of  the  common  limestone  of 
the  country  ;  their  whole  circumference  is 
two  miles  and  a  half.  The  ditch  which 
crosses  the  peninsula  from  the  Quarantine 
to  the  Great  Harbor,  cutting  oft'  all  com- 
munication with  the  city,  is  about  1000 
feet  long,  120  deep,  and  120  wide ;  this  is 
crossed  by  five  bridges.  Beyond  the  coun- 
terscarp are  many  outworks  and  a  glacis 
built  in  the  same  massive  style,  and  well 
supplied  with  cannon,  rendering  the  city 
one  of  the  best  fortified  in  the  world. 

During  the  existence  of  the  Order,  the 
knights  of  each  language  had  a  particular 
post  assigned  to  them  in  case  of  attack. 
The  knights  of  Provence  had  a  rampart  of 
St.  John;  those  of  France,  St.  James;  those 
of  Auvergne,  St.  Michael :  those  of  Itily, 
St.  Peter;  those  of  Aragon,  St.  Andrew  ; 
those  of  England,  St.  Lazarus ;  those  of 
Germany,  St.  Sebastian ;  and  those  of 
Castile,  Santa  Barbara.  There  was  also  a 
palace  or  inn  for  each  of  these  languages, 
where  all  the  members  ate  and  assembled 
together  for  the  purpose  of  consultation 
and  the  transaction  of  business  such  as 
preferred  residing  in  their  respective  inns 


VALETTA. 


[MALTA.] 


VALETTA. 


to  having  private  houses  of  their  own  wore 
permitted  to  do  so.  The  Superior  of  every 
laflgoaga  was  dignified  witli  a  distinctive 
title,  to  which  were  annexed  certain  func- 
tions ;  for  instance : 

Auberge  de  Provence. — The  Superior  of 
the  aul>erge  was  denominated  the  Grand 
Commander,  who,  by  virtue  of  his  office, 
was  perpetual  president  of  the  common 
treasury,  comptroller  of  the  accounts,  su- 
psrintendent  of  stores,  governor  of  the 
arsenal,  and  master  of  the  ordinance  ;  he 
Lad  the  nomination  (subject  to  the  appro- 
bation of  the  Grand  Master  and  council) 
of  all  officers  from  the  different  languages, 
and  to  this  he  added  the  power  of  appoint- 
in.;  persons  to  the  various  places  of  trust 
in  the  church  of  St.  John,  and  in  the  In- 
firmary. This  aubcrge  is  situated  in  the 
Strada  Reale;  it  is  a  line  building,  with  a 
plain  but  imposing  facade.  Besides  the 
chapel  which  this  language  owned  in  the 
church  of  St.  John,  it  possessed  another 
separate  church,  as  did  also  several  of  the 
other  languages. 

Auberye  d'Aitverynf. — The  head  of  this 
inn  was  called  the  Grand  Marshal ;  and 
he  had  the  military  command  over  all  the 
Order,  excepting  the  Grand  Crosses  or  their 
lieutenants,  the  chaplains,  and  other  per- 
sons of  the  Grand  Master's  household.  He 
intrusted  the  standard  of  the  Order  to  that 
knight  whom  he  judged  most  worthy  such 
distinction.  He  had  the  right  of  appoint- 
ing the  principal  equerry,  and,  when  at 
sea,  not  only  commanded  the  general  of 
the  galleys,  but  the  Grand  Admiral  him- 
self. This  auberge  occupies  a  site  opposite 
the  side-square  of  St.  John's  church  in  the 
Strada  Reale. 

The  Auberge  of  Italy. — The  Superior  of 
this  language  was  styled  the  Admiral.  In 
the  Grand  Marshal's  absence  he  had  the  j 
command  of  the  soldiery  equally  with  the 
seamen.  He  also  appointed  the  comptrol- 
ler and  secretary  of  the  arsenal ;  and  when 
he  demanded  to  be  named  to  the  general- 
ship of  the  galleys,  the  Grand  Master  was 
obliged  to  propose  him  to  the  council, 
which  was  at  liberty  to  appoint  or  reject 
him  at  pleasure.  This  auberge  is  situated 
in  Strada  Mercanti,  opposite  to  the  Au- 
berge  de  Castile.  Over  the  entrance  is  a 
bronze  bust  of  the  Grand  Master  Canafa, 
with  his  coat  of  arms,  and  many  trophies 
and  ornaments  of  white  marble,  said  to 


have  been  cut  from  a  large  pillar  which 
once  stood  in  the  Temple  of  Proserpine,  in 
the  Citta  Notabile.  The  small  church  of 
Sta.  Catariua,  which  adjoins  it,  also  be- 
longed to  this  language. 

A  uberge  Castile. — The  chief  of  this  inn 
was  dignified  with  the  title  of  Grand  Chan- 
cellor. It  belonged  to  his  office  always  to 
present  the  vice  chancellor  to  the  council, 
and  his  presence  was  likewise  necessary 
whenever  any  "bulls"  were  stamped  with 
the  great  seal.  Those  who  assumed  this 
dignity  were  obliged  to  know  how  to  read 
and  write.  This  is  the  largest  auberge  in 
the  city,  and  occupies  a  very  delightful 
situation  close  under  the  walls  of  the  ditch, 
commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the 
country  beyond.  It  is  surmounted  with 
a  great  display  of  ornamental  sculpture, 
consisting  chiefly  of  warlike  trophies,  arms, 
musical  instruments,  etc.  In  the  centre 
is  a  marble  bust  of  Grand  Master  Pinto. 
It  is  at  present  occupied  by  the  officers 
of  the  English  garrison.  To  the  knights 
of  this  language  appertained  the  church 
of  St.  James,  in  Strada  Mercanti.  a  neat 
specimen  of  architecture,  ornamented  in  a 
very  chaste  and  simple  style. 

Auberge  de  France. — The  Superior  of 
this  inn,  during  the  existence  of  the  Or- 
der, was  called  the  Grand  Hospitaller.  He 
had  the  direction  of  the  hospital,  and  ap- 
pointed the  overseer  and  prior  to  the  in- 
linnary,  and  also  ten  writers  to  the  coun- 
cil. The  officers  who  filled  these  employ- 
ments were  changed  every  two  years. 
The  Auberge  de  France  is  situated  in 
Strada  Mezzodi. 

Auberye  of  Aragon. — The  title  of  the 
Superior  of  this  inn  was  the  Draper,  or 
Grand  Conservator.  He  was  charged  with 
every  thing  relating  to  the  conservator}'— - 
to  trip  clothing  and  the  purchase  of  all  nec- 
essary articles,  not  only  for  the  troops,  but 
also  for  the  hospitals.  This  building  oc- 
cupies a  small  square  fronting  on  Strada 
Vescova,  and  is  now  the  residence  of  th« 
Lord  Bishop  of  Gibraltar. 

.•1  liberty  of  r.i/ifhnid  ajid  A ni/lo-Bavaria. 
— The  head  of  this  establishment  was  dig- 
nilied  with  the  title  of  the  Tancopolier. 
He  had  the  command  over  the  cavalry 
and  the  guards  stationed  along  the  coast. 
While,  the  '•  language''  of  Kngland  exist- 
ed, their  inn  was  the  building  which  fronts 
the  square  before  the  small  church  of  Sta 


VALETTA. 


[MALTA.] 


VALETTA. 


Catarina  of  the  Italians  on  the  one  side,  ! 
and  Strada  Keale  on  the  other.  After  the  ; 
Reformation,  when  all  the  English  com- 
manderies  were  confiscated  by  order  of 
Henry  VIII.,  this  language  ceded  up  its 
rights,  and  was  succeeded  by  the  Anglo- 
Bavarian,  whose  inn  stands  on  the  plat- 
form of  St.  Lazarus,  facing  the  entrance 
into  the  Quarantine  Harbor.  This  build- 
ing is  now  occupied  by  officers  of  the  Brit- 
ish garrison. 

PALACE  OF  THE  GRAND  MASTER. 

This  vast  building,  the  residence  of  the 
Grand  Masters  of  the  Order,  is  surrounded 
by  the  four  principal  streets.  It  is  300 
feet  on  each  side,  and  has  a  spacious  square 
in  front,  called  Piazza  St.  Giorgio.  It  lias 
two  principal  entrances,  two  court-yards, 
with  fountains ;  one  of  them  is  now  used 
as  a  racket-court  for  the  amusement  of  the 
officers  of  the  garrison. 

The  interior  of  the  palace  consists  of  a 
lower  and  upper  story,  each  containing  a 
range  of  apartments  running  round  the 
building.  The  halls  and  apartments  in 
the  upper  story  are  very  elegant,  many  of 
them  embellished  with  views  commemora- 
tive of  the  battles  of  the  Order.  Some  of 
the  paintings  are  of  superior  workman- 
ship. Among  the  several  masters  whose 
genius  adorns  these  walls  are  Caravaggio 
d'Arpino  and  Cavalier  Fauray.  In  the 
waiting-room  are  some  fine  productions  by 
Maltese  artists.  The  principal  pieces  are 
St.  George  and  the  Dragon,  St.  Michael, 
St.  Peter,  Mary  Magdalene,  and  JEneas. 
Most  of  tlie  ancient  paintings  were  placed 
here  by  the  Grand  Master  Zandadari,  and 
are  chiefly  scriptural  illustrations. 

The  most  interesting  sight  in  the  build- 
ing is  the  A  rmory.  It  occupies  a  large  sa- 
loon extending  the  whole  length  of  the 
building,  and  contains  the  armor  and  a 
great  many  warlike  weapons  belonging  to 
the  Knights  of  Malta,  with  numerous  tro- 
phies of  their  splendid  victories.  It  also 
contains  20,000  muskets,  1000  pistols,  30,000 
boarding -pikes,  belonging  to  the  garri- 
son. There  ars  90  complete  coats  of  ar- 
mor for  mounted  knights,  and  450  cuirass- 
es, casques,  and  gauntlets  for  infantry. 
The  last  -  mentioned  armor  is  arranged 
along  the  upper  part  of  the  room,  in  regu- 
lar order,  with  their  respective  shields,  on 
which  is  portrayed  the  white  cross  of  the 
912 


Order  on  a  red  field.  The  armor  of  the 
mounted  cavaliers  and  men-at-arms  is  of 
different  kinds  ;  some  burnished,  and  oth- 
ers painted  black  and  varnished.  The 
complete  suits  of  armor  are  placed  upright 
on  stands,  and  posted  up  along  the  rows  of 
muskets  at  certain  distances  from  each 
other,  looking  like  so  many  sentinels,  and 
giving  a  very  sombre  appearance  to  the 
whole  room.  A  trial  was  once  made  of 
the  force  of  resistance  of  one  of  these  suits, 
and  several  musket-balls  were  discharged 
against  it  at  60  yards'  distance,  which  only 
produced  a  very  shallow  concavity.  This 
piece  of  armor  may  be  seen  with  the  rest. 

At  one  end  of  the  room  is  a  complete 
suit  of  black  armor,  standing  about  seven 
feet  high  and  three  and  a  half  wide.  It 
is  not  very  probable  that  this  has  been 
often  used.  The  helmet  alone  weighs  37 
pounds.  Close  by  the  above  is  an  open 
case,  in  which  may  be  seen  many  curious 
specimens  of  musketry,  pistols,  swords, 
daggers,  etc.,  chiefly  trophies  taken  by  the 
knights  in  their  engagements  with  the 
Turks.  The  sword  of  the  famous  Alge- 
rine  general  Dragut  is  preserved  among 
the  spoils.  Before  this  case  is  a  cannon 
made  of  tarred  rope  bound  round  a  thin 
lining  of  copper,  and  covered  on  the  out- 
side with  a  coat  of  plaster  painted  black. 
This  curious  specimen  of  ancient  warfare 
was  taken  from  the  Turks  during  one  of 
their  attacks  upon  the  city  of  Rhodes.  It 
is  about  five  feet  long  and  three  inches 
bore.  At  the  other  extremity  of  the  room 
is  the  complete  armor  of  the  Grand  Master 
Alofio  Wignacourt,  beautifully  enchased 
with  gold ;  above  which  is  a  drawing  of 
the  same,  armed  cap-a-pie,  a  copy  from  the 
masterpiece  of  the  famous  Caravaggio 
which  is  in  the  dining-room. 

On  the  most  elevated  part  of  the  palace 
is  the  Torretta,  a  small  quadrangular  tow- 
er, from  whence  vessels  of  war  are  signal- 
ized. In  the  lower  part  of  this  building 
were  formerly  preserved  the  treasures  of 
the  Order,  among  which  was  the  sword, 
shield,  and  golden  belt  of  Philip  II.,  king 
of  Spain,  sent  by  him  as  a  present  to  the 
Grand  Master  La  Valette.  There  are  sev- 
eral other  apartments  in  the  palace  well 
worth  examination. 

The  Church  of  St.  John.— This  edifice 
holds  the  first  rank  among  the  sights  of 
Malta,  and  should  3rou  have  but  time  to 


VALETTA. 


[MALTA.J 


VALETTA. 


visit  one  place  in  Malta,  let  this  be  the 
one.  It  was  built  nearly  three  centuries 
ago,  at  the  time  La  Cassiera  was  Grand 
Master,  and  was  subsequently  enriched  by 
donations  of  the  Grand  Master  who  suc- 
1  him,  and  also  by  several  sovereigns 
of  Europe.  The  facade  of  the  church  is 
heavy  and  monotonous,  but  the  interior  is 
magnificent.  The  choir  is  ornamented 
with  an  admirable  piece  of  sculpture  in 
white  marble  on  a  raised  base,  represent- 
ing the  baptism  of  Christ  by  St.  John,  in 
two  figures  as  large  as  life.  This  piece 
was  from  a  design  by  the  famous  Maltese 
artist  Caffa,  and  completed  after  his  death 
by  Bornini. 

The  grand  altar,  which  stands  at  the 
uppermost  part  of  the  nave,  is  very  sump- 
tuous, and  deserves  notice  on  account  of 
the  various  colored  marble  and  other  val- 
uable stones  of  which  it  is  constructed. 
Before  it,  on  either  side,  on  a  raised  pave- 
ment, stands  a  chair  covered  with  a  rich 
canopy  of  crimson  velvet ;  that  to  the  left 
is  occupied  by  the  bishop,  and  the  one  on 
the  right  is  destined  for  the  sovereign  of 
the  island,  over  which  is  placed  the  es- 
cutcheon of  Great  Britain.  Close  by  the 
latter  is  a  seat  prepared  for  the  governor 
of  the  island.  The  pavement  is  composed 
of  sepulchral  slabs,  worked  in  mosaic  with 
various  colored  marble ;  many  of  them 
contain  jasper,  agate,  and  other  precious 
stones,  the  cost  of  which  must  have  been 
very  great.  These  cover  chiefly  the  graves 
of  the  knights  and  other  servants  of  the 
Order,  and  bear  each  an  appropriate  epi- 
taph, or  rather  a  panegyric  on  the  virtues 
of  the  deceased.  Many  have  had  their 
escutcheons  set  in  beautiful  mosaic,  look- 
ing as  bright  as  if  laid  down  but  yesterday. 

The  chapels  of  the  different  languages 
of  the  Order  which  run  parallel  with  the 
nave  form  the  two  aisles,  and  are  very 
splendidly  decorated ;  the  roofs  are  con- 
structed in  the  shape  of  a  dome  in  the  in- 
terior, and  are  very  profusely  carved  with 
different  ornaments  in  alto-relievo. 

The  first  arch  on  the  right  hand  as  you 
enter  the  church  leads  to  the  chapel  of  the 
Crucifixion,  in  which  are  several  very  line 
paintings,  especially  the  one  behind  the 
altar,  the  He-heading  of  St.  John,  by  Mi- 
chael Angelo  ( 'aravaggio.  From  this  chap- 
el a  flight  of  stairs  leads  to  a  subterraneous 
apartment,  ill  which  stands  a  rustic  chapel. 


!  The  second  arch  covers  the  chapel  of  the 
Portuguese  knights ;  the  walls  are  orna- 
mented with  paintings.  It  contains  two 
splendid  mausoleums  of  grand  masters — 
that  of  Emanuel  Pinto  and  Manoel  de  Vil- 
licna:  the  latter  is  of  bron/e,  very  costly, 
sustained  by  two  lions  of  the  same  mate- 
rial. The  fourth  arch  leads  into  the  chapel 
of  the  Spanish  knights.  Over  the  altar  is 
a  painting  of  St.  George  ;  those  on  the  side 
j  walls  represent  the  trial  and  martyrdom 
of  St.  Lawrence.  In  this  chapel  are  four 
magnificent  mausoleums  of  grand  mas- 
ters :  Martin  de  Redin,  Raphael  de  Cotoner, 
Perillos  E.  Roccaful,  and  Nicolas  Cotoner : 
the  two  last  are  very  grand.  The  fifth 
1  arch  leads  to  the  chapel  of  the  knights  of 
1'rovence.  This  contains  a  plain  black 
mausoleum  of  the  Grand  Master  Gorsan. 
The  paintings  above  the  altar  represent 
St.  Sebastian.  The  sixth  and  uppermost 
arch  leads  to  the  chapel  of  the  Virgin.  On 
the  side-walls  are  three  silver  plates,  with 
a  bundle  of  keys  suspended  from  each. 
These  were  trophies  taken  from  the  Turks. 
To  the  left  hand,  on  entering  the  church, 
I  is  a  splendid  copper  mausoleum  of  the 
|  Grand  Master  Zondadari.  The  whole  is 
supported  by  a  marble  base,  and  flanked 
with  two  fine  pillars  of  the  same  material. 
The  metal  statue  of  the  knight,  as  large 
as  life,  in  a  reclining  posture,  and  the  va- 
rious ornaments  which  surround  it,  are 
very  grand.  It  is  considered  a  splendid 
production  of  art. 

The  first  arch  down  the  aisle,  on  the 
left,  leads  to  the  vestry,  in  which  are  sev- 
eral paintings  and  portraits  of  grand  mas- 
ters.    The  second  chapel  is  that  of  the 
knights  of  Austria.     The  altar-piece  rep- 
resents the  Adoration  of  the  Wise  Men, 
and  on  the  side-walls  the  Murder  of  the 
Innocents  and  the  Birth  of  Christ.     The 
fourth  chapei  is  that  of  the  Italian  knights. 
It  contains  the  mausoleum  of  the  Grand 
Master   Carafa.      The   altar-piece    is    the 
Espousals  of  St.  Catharine.    There  are  two 
drawings  by  Caravaggio,  Jerome  and  Mary 
Magdalene.      The  next  chapel  is  that  of 
the   knights  of  France.      In   this    chapel 
|  there  are  two  monuments  of  grand  mas- 
i  ters.      That   of  Prince    Ludovico    Philip 
j  d'Orleans,  who  was  interred  here,  is  very 
i  fine.     Over  the  altar  is  a  fine  picture,  the 
Conversion  of  St.  Paul ;  on  the  side-walls, 
I  the  Holy  Family  and  St.  John  in  the  Des- 
913 


CITTA  VECCHIA. 


[MALTA.] 


GROTTO  OF  ST.  PAUL. 


ert.  The  sixth  and  last  chapel  is  that  of 
the  knights  of  Bavaria.  It  was  also  used 
by  the  English  knights  of  the  Order.  Over 
the  altar  is  a  drawing  of  St.  Michael  and 
the  Dragon. 

From  this  chapel  a  staircase  leads  to  the 
crypt,  in  which  are  the  tombs  of  several 
grand  masters.  Among  these  is  that  of 
L'Isle  Adam,  the  first  commander  of  the 
Order  in  Malta,  the  famous  La  Valette, 
Vignacourt,  La  Cassiera,  Cardinal  Verda- 
la,  and  Pietro  de  Monte. 

Among  the  many  public  institutions  of 
Malta  is  one  well  worthy  of  imitation  in 
our  own  country.  Even  Austria  is  far 
ahead  of  us  in  this  respect.  That  is,  the 
Monte  di  Pieta,  or  Public  Pawnbrokery. 
It  was  established  in  1597  for  the  purpose 
of  affording  pecuniary  relief  to  the  dis- 
tressed at  reasonable  interest,  thereby  pre- 
venting them  from  having  recourse  to  usu- 
rious contracts.  Any  sum  of  money,  how- 
ever email,  is  advanced  to  applicants  on 
the  security  of  property  given  in  pawn, 
such  as  gold,  silver,  and  other  precious  ar- 
ticles, or  wearing  apparel,  whether  worn 
or  new.  The  period  of  the  loan  is  for  three 
years  on  pawns  of  the  first  description,  and 
never  more  than  two  on  those  of  the  latter, 
renewable  at  the  option  of  the  parties,  who 
are  also  at  liberty  to  redeem  their  pawns 
at  any  time  within  the  period  on  payment 
of  interest  in  proportion.  The  rate  of  in- 
terest is  6  per  cent,  per  annum.  The  un- 
claimed pawns  at  the  expiration  of  the  pe- 
riod are  sold  at  public  auction,  and  the  pro- 
ceeds, after  deducting  the  sum  due  the  in- 
stitution, are  payable  to  the  person  pro- 
ducing the  ticket. 

People  in  good  circumstances  often  avail 
themselves  of  this  accommodation. 

Citta  Vecchia,  or  the  old  city,  is  situated 
on  the  centre  of  the  island,  and  is  called 
Medina  by  the  natives.  It  is  well  worth 
a  visit.  Its  situation  is  so  high  that,  on  a 
clear  day,  the  whole  island,  and  the  coasts 
of  Sicil}T  and  Africa,  may  be  seen  at  the 
distance  of  sixty  miles.  This  city  is  sur- 
rounded by  walls,  and  defended  with  bas- 
tions and  other  modern  fortifications.  In 
early  times  it  bore  the  same  name  with  the 
island,  Melita. 

On  the  election  of  grand  master,  the 

ceremony  of  inauguration  was  performed 

in  this  city.     Early  in  the  morning  the 

sovereign  left  Valetta,  accompanied  by  his 

914 


court,  and  escorted  by  a  body-guard,  with 
bands  of  music.  On  his  arrival  near  the 
city  he  was  saluted  by  the  musketry  and 
by  the  principal  giurato,  who  presented 
him  with  a  bunch  of  artificial  flowers,  with 
an  appropriate  speech,  and  afterward  kiss- 
ed his  hand.  The  procession  then  pro- 
ceeded until  it  joined  the  bishop  and  the 
clerg}r,  who  came  out  to  meet  them.  The 
Grand  Master  was  afterward  placed  un- 
der a  canopy  borne  on  four  poles  by  the 
giurati,  and  continued  walking  until  he 
arrived  at  the  gates  of  the  city,  where  a 
place  was  prepared  for  him  to  kneel  upon, 
before  which  a  cross  was  erected.  After 
the  gates  were  shut  the  first  giurato  stepped 
forward,  having  in  his  hand  a  silver  dish, 
with  two  keys  laid  upon  it  of  the  same 
metal,  and,  making  a  very  low  bow,  ad- 
dressed the  sovereign  in  the  following 
words:  "Most  Serene  Lord,  the  Divine 
Majest)7  has  been  pleased  to  favor  us  and 
this  city  by  placing  over  us  so  great  a 
prince  as  lord  and  master;  and  the  high 
honor  is  conferred  upon  me  of  presenting 
to  your  serene  majesty  the  keys  of  this 
city,  in  order  that  you  may  take  possession 
thereof.  Therefore  my  colleagues  and  my- 
self,  in  all  humility,  beg  your  most  serene 
highness  to  deign  to  swear  upon  the  habit 
of  the  Grand  Cross  that  you  will  observe  all 
the  privileges,  and  franchises,  and  usages 
of  this  city  and  of  the  island  of  Malta, 
which  were  conceded  to  them  by  the  most 
serene  sovereigns  of  Aragon  and  Sicily, 
and  by  the  magnanimous  grand  masters 
of  this  sacred  Order,  the  predecessors  of 
your  most  serene  highness,  and  command 
the  same  to  be  observed."  The  Grand 
Master  then  laid  his  hand  upon  the  cross 
on  his  breast,  and  said,  "  I  am  bound  to  do 
so ;  I  swear."  After  the  keys  were  de- 
livered into  his  hand  the  procession  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Cathedral,  where  a  solemn 
Te  Deum  was  sung,  and  after  the  celebra- 
tion of  mass  the  pageant  terminated. 

The  ceremony  of  consecrating  the  bish- 
ops of  Malta  is  also  performed  in  the  Ca- 
thedral of  this  city. 

Near  to  the  city  is  the  celebrated  Grotto 
of  St.  Paul,  situated  underneath  a  church 
dedicated  to  the  same  saint.  According 
to  tradition,  St.  Paul,  accompanied  by  the 
Apostle  Luke  and  Trophimus,  resided  in 
this  cave  for  the  space  of  three  months — 
the  time  of  his  stay  upon  the  island.  The 


THE  CATACOMBS. 


[MALTA.] 


STRADA  TKATKO. 


veneration  for  this  cave  very  much  in- 
creased about  the  beginning  of  the  17th 
century,  when  a  citizen  of  Cordova,  named 
Fra  Giovanni,  left  his  native  country  anil 
came  to  Malta  to  tenant  it.  This  ancho- 
rite had  a  chapel  erected  over  the  grotto, 
which  he  dedicated  to  St.  Publius,  which 
was  afterward  much  enlarged  by  the  Grand 
Master  Lascaris,  and  enriched  with  dona- 
tions of  a  vast  number  of  relics  by  the 
reigning  pontiffs  of  Rome.  Among  these 
is  a  ]>iece  of  the  true  cross,  a  little  of  the 
Virgin  Mary's  milk,  some  remains  of  not 
less  than  six  of  the  apostles,  and  of  about 
fifty  other  saints.  The  grotto  is  about 
thirty-six  feet  in  diameter,  and  about  eight 
feet  high.  A  fine  marble  statue  of  St. 
Paul  occupies  the  middle  of  the  cave,  be- 
fore which  several  lights  are  kept  continu- 
ally burning. 

The  Catacombs  of  St.  Paul  are  very  cel- 
ebrated ;  they  are  situated  about  five  min- 
utes' walk  from  the  church,  the  sacristan 
of  which  will  supply  tapers  and  light  you 
through. 

Among  the  numerous  places  of  interest 
on  the  island  are  the  Tombs  of  Bingemma ; 
St.  Paul's  Bay :  there  is  a  small  chapel  built 
on  the  spot  where  the  barbarians  lighted 
a  fire  to  warm  the  shipwrecked  crew  ;  Ca- 
lypso's Grotto,  sung  by  Homer  and  dilated 
upon  by  Fenelon  in  his  Telemachus.  The 
Church  of  Mellitha  is  built  over  the  Grotto 
of  the  Madonna.  The  church  contains  a 
vast  number  of  presents  to  the  Virgin.  In 
the  grotto  there  is  a  spring  of  water  sur- 
mounted by  a  large  statue  of  the  Virgin. 
The  natives  assert  that  this  ima^e  has  been 
several  times  taken  up  and  offered  a  more 
respectable  place  in  the  church,  but  that 
during  the  night  she  has  again  chosen  to 
return  down  forty  stairs  to  her  old  position. 


(  The  cave  is  filled  with  headless  statues  of 
gods  and  goddesses,  and,  according  to  the 
testimony  of  the  sacristan,  owe  their  de- 
capitation to  the  French  during  their  short 
occupation  of  the  island. 

There  is  a  very  good  theatre  in  the  Stra- 
d(i  Ti'iitro ;  it  was  erected  by  the  Grand- 
Master  Wilhena  in  1731.  The  government 
grants  its  use  free  of  charge,  and  it  is  sup- 
plied nearly  all  the  year  round  with  Italian 
operas.  Occasionally  the  naval  and  mili- 
tary officers  perform  for  the  amusement  of 
the  public. 

The  traveler  will  find  the  commission- 
aires of  Malta  a  hard  set  to  get  rid  of. 
The  author  had  one  follow  him  round  for 
over  an  hour,  although  during  that  time 
he  told  him  fifty  times  to  go  about  some 

!  other  business,  and  only  got  rid  of  the 
rascal  by  dodging  him  in  a  crowd  at 
the  post-office.  Mr.  Prime  very  truly  re- 

|  marks, "  And  plunging  down  the  steep,  nar- 
row streets  to  the  landing-place,  overturn- 
ing half  a  dozen  commissionaires,  each  of 
whom  swore  that  he  was  the  man  that  said 
good-morninLCthe  day  previous,  and  became 
therefore  entitled  to  his  five  francs  (for  no 

!  one  need  imagine  that  he  will  land  at  Malta 
without  pa}-ing  at  least  three  commission- 
aires and  five  porters,  if  he  carry  no  bag- 
gage on  shore,  or  twice  as  many  if  he  have 
one  portmanteau)  .  .  ."  The  only  remedy 
we  can  advise  is  to  take  one  the  moment 
you  land,  to  protect  you  from  the  rest. 

from  Malta  to  A  lexandria,  distance  900 
miles ;  average  time,  3  days  20  hours. 

From  Malta  to  Z/nni«,  3  times  monthly 
in  '22  hours;  fare,  £2  8s. ;  to  Tripoli  twice 
a  month  in  22  hours ;  to  England  weekly. 
As  the  days  of  sailing  to  different  places 
are  often  changed,  it  is  well  to  inquire  at 
the  offices. 

915 


EGYPT. 


GEOGRAPHY. 


[EGYPT.] 


GEOGRAPHY 


"Our  of  Egypt  have  I  called  my  son." 
Through  Abraham's  eyes  we  first  see  the 
ancient  Pharaohs,  the  earliest  seat  of  art, 
science,  and  literature.  What  inducements 
to  the  Christian,  the  scholar,  and  the  anti- 
quary to  visit  Egypt,  famous  alike  for  the 
historical  events  of  which  it  has  been  the 
theatre,  its  magnificent  monuments,  and 
balmy  atmosphere. 

This  most  interesting  of  lands  occupies 
the  northeastern  corner  of  the  African 
continent.  The  waters  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean form  the  northern  limit  of  its  soil. 
Upon  the  south  it  is  bounded  by  Nubia,  i 
upon  the  east  and  west  by  the  Red  Sea  ! 
and  the  Libyan  desert.  The  lowest  of  the 
Nile  cataracts  marks  the  frontier  between  j 
Egypt  and  Nubia,  where  the  modern  town 
of  Assouan  stands  beside  the  river's  bank, 
and  the  foaming  waters  hurry  past  the 
temple-covered  islands  of  Elephantine  and 
Philae.  From  the  shores  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean to  the  first  cataract,  the  valley  of 
the  Nile  measures,  in  a  direct  line  from 
north  to  south,  an  extent  of  550  miles.  But 
the  breadth  of  Egypt  bears  only  a  very 
limited  proportion  to  its  length,  in  so  far, 
that  is,  as  the  habitable  portion  of  the  coun- 
try is  concerned.  Its  breadth  on  the  coast 
is  160  miles,  but  it  gradually  tapers  off  to 
a  point  at  Cairo,  a  distance  of  104  miles 
from  the  mouths  of  the  Nile,  and  the  rest 
of  the  habitable  country  is  chiefly  com- 
prised in  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Nile 
up  to  Benisooef,  a  distance  of  83  miles.  At 
this  point  it  spreads  to  the  west  to  form  the 
valley  of  Faloum,  which  borders  on  Lake 
Moeris.  This  vale  is  nearly  circular  in  its 
shape,  40  miles  in  diameter,  and  of  great 
fertility  and  beauty. 

It  is  estimated  that  the  whole  cultivable 
territory  of  Egypt,  including  its  lateral 
valleys,  is  about  16,000  square  miles.  That 
portion  situated  between  Lake  Mareotis  on 
the  northwest  and  Lake  Mcnzaleh  on  the 
northeast,  watered  by  the  Damietta  and 
Rosetta  mouths  of  the  Nile,  is  called  the 
Delta  or  Lower  Egypt.  That  portion  which 
includes  the  valley  of  the  Nile  from  the 
apex  of  the  Delta  up  to  Manfaloot  is  called 
Middle  Egypt.  That  portion  which  com- 
prehends the  remainder  of  the  valley  up  to 
916 


the  first  cataract  is  called  the  Said,  or 
Upper  Ei'ypt.  These  are  farther  divided 
into  13  provinces,  viz.,  seven  for  Lower 
Egypt,  three  for  Middle  Egypt,  and  three 
for  Upper  Egypt.  The  entire  population 
is  estimated  at  8,400,000.  Of  this  number 
8,000,000  are  Egyptian  Arabs,  200,000  Copts 
or  Christian  Egyptians,  15,000  Turks,  Bed- 
ouin Arabs  70,000;  the  balance  Syrians, 
Greeks,  Armenians,  Jews,  Mamelukes, 
Franks,  white  slaves,  and  negro  slaves. 

The  great  majority  of  the  Egyptian 
Arabs  are  engaged  as  fellahs,  or  husband- 
men, and  their  social  condition  is  of  a  very 
low  grade ;  they  are  generally  poor,  apa- 
thetic, and  sunk  alike  in  ignorance  and  in- 
dolence. Those  who  reside  in  the  towns, 
and  are  engaged  as  artisans  and  shopkeep- 
ers, exhibit  a  higher  degree  of  intelligence ; 
but  credulity  and  fondness  of  frivolous 
amusements  are  their  chief  characteristics : 
when  not  engaged  in  their  professional  or 
religious  duties  they  are  general!}'  found 
in  the  coffee-houses,  listening  to  story-tell- 
ers, or  in  places  of  public  resort,  where 
mountebanks,  jugglers,  serpent-charmers, 
and  dancing-girls  are  performing. 

The  Copts  dwell  chiefly  in  towns,  and 
are  generally  employed  in  offices  of  trust. 

The  Armenians  and  Jews  are  here,  as  ir. 
other  parts  of  the  East,  among  the  most 
useful  and  industrious  portions  of  the  pop- 
ulation, the  latter  acting  chiefh'  as  mon- 
ey-changers, jewelers,  brokers,  etc. ;  but 
neither  of  these  classes  are  numerous,  and 
the  Jews  are  almost  confined  exclusively 
to  Cairo  and  Alexandria. 

The  great  feature  of  Egypt  is  the  Nile, 
without  which  the  whole  country  would 
be  a  desert ;  but  throughout  a  couise  of 
800  miles  it  has  not  a  single  tributary. 
You  naturally  expect,  when  you  liavo 
tracked  him  that  distance,  to  find  the  vast 
volume  of  waters  shrink  ;  but  n:>,  his 
breadth  and  strength  below  was  all  his 
own,  and  throughout  that  long  descent  he 
has  not  a  single  drop  of  water  but  what  he 
brought  himself.  Greater  than  the  Rhine, 
Rhone,  or  Danube,  you  perceive  that  vast 
body  of  water  as  steadily  flowing  between 
its  uniform  banks  among  the  wild  Nubian 
hills  as  in  the  plain  of  Lower  Egypt. 


THE  NILE. 


[EGYPT.] 


THE  NILE. 


The  fertility  of  Egypt  is  entirely  due  to 
the  annual  rise  of  the  Nile,  which  even' 
year  overflows  its  banks  and  spreads  over 
the  adjacent  lands,  so  as  to  lay  the  whole 
country  under  water.  Throughout  Middle 
Egypt  the  river  is  accompanied  to  the 
westward  by  an  artificial  channel,  called 
the  Bahr  Yousef,  or  Canal  of  Joseph  ;  this 
is  connected  with  the  Nile  l>y  numerous 
small  streams,  which  serve  to  distribute 
the  water  over  the  valley.  In  Lower 
Egypt,  in  addition  to  the  Kosetta  and  Da- 
mietta  branches  of  the  Nile,  there  are  sev- 
eral subordinate  streams  and  channels, 
some  of  them  of  artificial  construction,  in- 
tended to  serve  the  purpose  of  irrigation, 
and  to  retain  the  waters  of  the  Nile  when 
the  inundation  has  retired. 

The  river  annually  beirins  to  rise  alxmt 
the  end  of  June,  and  continues  rising  until 
the  first  of  October,  at  which  time  the  trav- 
eler may  have  the  opportunity  of  witness- 
ing the  singular  appearance  of  the  coun- 
try. It  then  remains  stationary  a  few 
days,  and  afterward  gradually  retires  to 
its  proper  bed.  At  this  period  of  the  year 
the  Nile-waters  are  charged  with  a  thick 
sediment,  a  portion  of  which  is  left  as  a  de- 
posit upon  the  soil,  to  which  it  imparts  the 
most  fertilizing  properties. 

The  rise  of  the  Nile  is  due  to  the  period- 
ical rains  of  Abyssinia  and  the  countries 
farther  south,  whence  the  river  derives  its 
waters,  and  upon  the  greater  or  lesser 
quantity  of  which  the  height  of  the  inun- 
dation depends. 

The  height  which  the  stream  reaches 
above  its  ordinary  channel  is  carefully  no- 
ted ;  as  the  extent  of  land  subjected  to  ir- 
rigation, and  the  length  of  time  during 
which  it  will  remain  under  water,  arc  de- 
pendent on  this,  and  the  occurrence  of  a 
good  or  bad  harvest  may  henceforth  be 
predicted  with  certainty. 

We  know  by  the  testimony  of  antiquity 
that  the  inundations  of  the  Nile  have  been 
the  same,  with  respect  to  season  and  dura- 
tion, for  over  3000  years.  They  are  so 
regular  that  the  value  and  annual  certain- 
ty of  this  gift  regulates  the  public  reve- 
nue ;  for  when,  by  means  of  Nilometers, 
it  is  ascertained  that  the  waters  promise 
an  unusually  prosperous  season,  the  taxes 
are  proportionally  increased. 

At  Cairo,  just  above  the  point  of  the 
delta,  the  ordinary  rise  is  about  23  feet. 
VOL.  II".— R 


A  less  rise  than  this  is  insufficient  for  the 
purposes  of  the  husbandman  ;  and  a  great- 
er rise  sometimes  occasions  serious  mis- 
chief to  the  villages,  which  are  every  where 
built  on  the  summits  of  mounds,  so  as  to 
be  out  of  the  reach  of  inundation.  Tht 
limit  of  the  inundation  is  so  marked  that, 
in  many  parts  of  Egypt,  it  is  possible  to 
walk  with  one  foot  on  a  fertile  and  teem- 
ing soil,  and  with  the  other  on  a  barren 
waste.  Every  spot  reached  by  the  water 
is  a  lovely  light  green  color — green,  "un- 
utterably green,"  save  where  the  mud  vil- 
lages which  here  and  there  lie  in  the  midst 
of  the  verdure  like  the  marks  of  a  soiled 
foot  upon  a  rich  carpet.  These  villages 
are  mostly  distinguished  by  the  minaret 
of  a  well-built  mosque  or  the  oven -like 
dome  of  a  sheik's  tomb,  screened  by  a 
grove  of  palms.  The  number  of  birds 
one  sees  here  is  unequaled  in  any  other 
country :  vultures  and  cormorants,  geese 
and  pelicans,  hoopoes  and  zizacs,  and  the 
white  ibis,  the  gentle  symbol  of  the  god 
Osiris. 

The  waters  of  the  Nile  are  pure  and 
sweet,  and  are  used  by  the  Egyptians  for 
all  ordinary  purposes;  but  during  the  in- 
undation (and  also  for  some  weeks  previ- 
ously), the  river  is  so  charged  with  sedi- 
ment that  the  water  requires  to  be  filtered 
in  order  to  fit  it  for  drinking,  and  jars  of 
porous  earthenware  are  used  for  the  pur- 
pose of  cooling  and  purifying  it.  The 
changes  in  its  color  are  in  the  highest  de- 
gree curious  during  the  inundation.  The 
waters  are  of  a  greenish  hue ;  they  after- 
ward change  to  a  deep  brownish  red,  close- 
ly resembling  the  appearance  of  blood, 
and  again  become  clear  after  subsiding 
into  their  ordinary  channel. 


According  to  Josephus,  Menes  was  the 
first  king  of  Egypt.  He  ascended  the 
throne  •_):;-2n  years  before  Christ,  or  -lls-J 
years  ago.  The  origin,  however,  of  the 
Egyptian  nation,  nnd  the  history  of  their 
kings,  are  involved  in  the  greatest  obscu- 
rity and  uncertainty.  About  200  years 
later  Saophis  built  the  great  Pyramid,  and 
40  years  after  Sen-saophis  built  the  sec- 
ond Pyramid.  19:20  years  1$. C.  Alraham 
arrived  in  Egypt.  During  the  dynasty 
from  Lower  Egypt  in  the  year  1700  B.C., 
917 


HlSTORT. 


[EGYPT.] 


HISTORY. 


Joseph  arrived,  and  died  1635,  during  the 
same  dynasty. 

In  the  year  1575,  Amosis,  from  Thebes, 
founder  of  the  Diospolitan  dynasty,  took 
possession  of  the  throne.  This  was  the 
king  ' '  who  knew  not  Joseph."  Four  years 
later  Moses  was  born,  and  in  his  fortieth 
year  he  fled  from  Egypt.  This  dynasty 
reigned  750  years,  at  which  time  the  F.thi- 
opian  dynasty  was  founded,  and  lasted 
114  years,  during  which  time  the  captivity 
of  the  "  ten  tribes"  took  place. 

In  664  B.C.  the  dynasty  of  Saltes  was 
established,  which  remained  in  existence 
139  years.  The  Egyptians  had  at  this  age 
attained  to  great  wealth  and  civilization, 
and  had  established  a  regular  and  well-or- 
ganized system  of  government,  while  the 
greater  number  of  the  surrounding  nations 
were  involved  in  the  grossest  barbarism. 

At  length,  in  the  year  525  B.C.,  Camby- 
ses,  emperor  of  Persia,  added  Egypt  to  his 
other  provinces.  It  continued  attached  to 
Persia  for  193  years,  though  often  in  open 
rebellion  against  its  conquerors. 

Alexander  the  Great  had  little  difficulty 
in  effecting  its  conquest,  which  was  done 
in  the  reign  of  Darius,  336  B.C.  It  lias 
been  inferred  from  the  foundation  of  Alex- 
andria, which  soon  became  the  centre  of 
an  extensive  commerce,  that  he  intended 
to  establish  in  it  the  seat  of  the  govern- 
ment of  his  vast  empire.  On  the  death  of 
Alexander,  Ptolemy,  the  son  of  Lagus,  be- 
came master  of  the  country.  Under  this  : 
able  prince  and  his  immediate  successors 
Egypt  recovered  the  greater  portion  of  its 
ancient  prosperity,  and  was  for  three  cen- 
turies the  favored  seat  of  commerce,  art, 
and  science. 

The  feebleness  and  indolence  of  the  last 
sovereigns  of  the  Macedonian  dynasty,  end- 
ing with  Cleopatra,  facilitated  the  conquest 
of  Egypt  by  the  Romans.  Augustus  pos- 
sessed himself  of  it  after  a  struggle  of 
some  duration,  and  for  the  next  666  years 
it  belonged  to  the  Roman  and  Greek  em- 
pires, constituted  their  most  valuable  prov- 
ince, and  was  for  a  lengthened  period,  as 
it  were,  the  granary  of  Rome. 

In  640  A.D.  Egypt  submitted  to  the  vic- 
torious Amrou,  general  of  the  Caliph  Omar. 
Amrou,  in  his  letter  to  the  caliph  an- 
nouncing the  event,  says,  "  I  have  taken 
the  great  city  of  the  West.  It  is  impossi- 
ble for  me  to  enumerate  the  variety  of  its 
918 


richness  and  beauty,  and  I  shall  content 
myself  with  observing  that  it  contains  4000 
palaces,  400  baths,  400  theatres  or  places 
of  amusement,  12,000  shops  for  the  sale  of 
vegetables,  and  40,000  tributary  Jews." 

Under  Omar  and  his  successors  it  con- 
tinued until  1171,  when  the  Turkomans  ex- 
pelled the  Caliphs.  The  dynasty  of  the  Ab- 
bassides,  descended  from  Abbas,  uncle  of 
Mohammed,  ruled  Egypt  nearly  the  whole 
of  this  time.  In  the  year  754  Bagdad  was 
founded  and  made  the  seat  of  the  empire, 
and  thirty  years  later  the  famous  Haroun 
al  liaschid,  the  hero  of  the  Arabian  Nights, 
ally  of  Charlemagne,  and  dread  of  the  Ro- 
mans, governed  Egypt. 

The  Turkomans  were  again  expelled  by 
the  Mamelukes  in  1250.  The  latter  raised 
to  the  throne  one  of  their  own  chiefs,  with 
the  title  of  sultan,  and  this  dynasty  reign- 
ed over  Egypt  till  1517,  when  the  Mame- 
lukes were  totally  defeated,  and  the  last  of 
their  sultans  put  to  death,  by  the  Turkish 
sultan  Sclim.  The  conqueror  did  not, 
however,  entirely  suppress  the  Mameluke 
government,  but  merely  reconstructed  it 
on  a  new  basis,  placing  at  its  head  a  pacha 
appointed  by  himself,  who  presided  over  a 
council  of  24  Mamelukes,  beys  or  chiefs. 

This  state  of  things  continued  till  1798, 
when  a.  French  army,  commanded  by  Na- 
poleon Bonaparte,  landed  in  Egypt.  The 
Mameluke  force  having  been  annihilated 
or  dispersed  in  a  series  of  engagements 
with  the  French,  the  latter  succeeded  in 
subjugating  the  country.  Bonaparte  hav- 
ing returned  to  France,  the  French  in 
E  _rypt  were  attacked  in  1801  by  a  British 
army,  by  which  they  were  defeated,  and 
obliged  to  enter  into  a  convention  for  the 
evacuation  of  the  country. 

The  British  having  not  long  after  also 
evacuated  Egypt,  it  relapsed  into  its  for- 
mer state  of  anarch}*  and  confusion,  from 
which  it  was  at  last  rescued  by  the  ability 
and  good  fortune  of  Mehemet  Ali.  This 
extraordinary  man,  a  native  of  an  obscure 
village  of  Albania,  having  entered  the  mil- 
itary service,  partly  by  his  lira  very  and 
p.irtly  by  his  talent  for  intrigue,  raised 
himself  to  the  dignity  of  pacha  in  1*0 1. 
The  viceroyalty  is  hereditary  in  Mehemet 
Ali's  family.  The  present  Khedive  is 
Tewfik  Pasha,  son  of  Ismail  Pasha. 

The  public  affairs  of  Egj'pt  are  conduct- 
ed bv  the  Khedive  and  his  Council  of  Min- 


ALEXANDRIA. 


[EGYPT.] 


ALEXANDRIA. 


isters,  advised  by  a  British  Resident,  since 
tlio  campaign  of  1882,  under  General  Sir 
Garnet  Wolseley,  and  the  collapse  of  tlie 
Ultra-national  (>arty.  Tlie  leaders  of  this 
movement — Arabi,  Mahmoud  Femi,  Mah- 
inoud  Sami,  Toulba,  Alxlellal,  and  others 
— wore  all  captured,  tried,  condemned  to 
death,  reprieved  by  the  Khedive,  and  sent, 
after  public  degradation,  into  perpetual 
exile  in  Ceylon. 


keys  at  you,  that  the  only  possible  way  of 
escape  is  to  mount  one  of  them.  For  this 
ride  you  should  not  pay  over  one  piastre, 
but  they  would  not  be  satisfied  with  ten; 
a  native  would  not  pay  half. 

As  you  approach  the  level  shores  of 
Kixypt,  gradually  a  column  rises  up  out  of 
the  sea,  and  stands  upon  the  horizon,  faint- 
ly marked  against  the  liquid  sky.  Soon 


after,  swarms  of  windmills  emerge  from 
ttie  same  water}-  bed;  gradually,  on  the  ex- 

Money. — The  currency  of  Egypt  is  pias-  treme  left,  rise  the  pacha's  palace  and  lofty 

tresand  paras.    40  paras  =  1  piastre  =  about  harem;  gleaming  sand-banks  fill  up  the  in- 

5  ivnts  U.  S.  currency.    An  American  dol-  terval.     The  buildings  that  come  one  by 

laris  worth  19  piastres,  and  tive-franc  pieces  one  into  view  are  Alexandria,  and  the  tall 

19  piastres  10  paras.     The  best  money  to  column  that  first  attracts  the  stranger's 

draw  or  take  to  Egypt  is  sovereigns.     The  view  is  known  as  Pompey's  Pillar, 

smallest  copper  coin  is  five-para   pieces,  This  city  was  founded  by  Alexander  the 

worth  about  five  eighths  of  a  cent.  Great  332  years  before  Christ.     It  is  ad- 

As  it  is  impossible  to  get  money  in  Up-  mirably  situated  between  the  west  mouth 
per  Egypt,  the  traveler  must  make  all  his  of  the  Xile  and  Lake  Mareotis,  and  is  con- 
arrangements  before  leaving  Cairo,  and  be  nected  with  the  Rosetta  mouth  of  the  Nile 
particular  to  provide  himself  with  plenty  of  by  the  Mahmoudieh  Canal,  reopened  in 


piastres,  twenty,  ten,  and  live-para  pieces. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


1819  by  Mehemet  Ali.     Its  length  is  48 
miles. 

The  modern  city  is  partly  built  on  the 
celebrated  island  of  Pharos  and  the  isth- 
mus that  connects  it  with  the  main  land. 
The  ancient  citv  was  built  on  the  main 


The  sea-port  and  commercial  capital  of  ;  land  opposite  the  present  site. 
Egypt  contains  nearly  300. 000  inhabitants.  !      Alexandria  has  two  ports — that  on  the 
The  principal  hotel  is  the  Hotel  de  V Eu-  j  west,  which  is  the  best,  is  called  the  old 
rope,  well  conducted  by  the  same  propri-  j  harbor,  that  on  the  east  the  new. 
etor  as  the  Xt w  Hotel.  '  The  prices  are  50  \      Since  the  opening  of  the  canal,  Alexan- 


piastres  per  day,  which  includes  breakfast, 
dinner,  tea,  and  bedroom ;  a  sitting-room 
is  charged  extra ;  also  25  cents  for  service 
per  day,  and  the  same  for  a  candle.  The 
price  of  a  boat  for  landing  should  not  be 
over  five  piastres  (25  cents),  and  from  five 
to  ten  will  enable  you  to  pass  your  baggage 
without  examination  at  the  custom-house. 
The  better  plan  is  to  make  a  bargain  with 
the  commissionaire  to  take  you  and  your 
baggage  on  shore,  see  it  through  the  cus- 
tom-house, and  land  you  at  the  hotel;  if  he 


dria  has  increased  wonderfully  in  size,  and 
regained  much  of  that  commercial  import- 
ance for  which  it  was  in  ancient  times  so 
celebrated.  It  is  much  indebted  for  this 
change  to  the  establishment  of  a  steam 
communication  with  India  by  way  of 
Egypt,  as  well  as  by  the  lines  of  steamers 
connecting  it  with  Marseilles,  Trieste,  and 
the  whole  of  the  Levant.  There  are  Hues 
now  running  from  Alexandria  to  Corfu  di- 
rect, also  via  Smyrna ;  to  Southampton 
via  Malta ;  to  Marseilles  via  Malta ;  to 


will  do  it  for  twenty-live  piastres,  pay  it.    Constantinople  via  Jaffa  and  Beyrout;  t» 
If  you  do  not  make  a  bargain,  and  escape  j  Constantinople  direct  (two  lines)  ;  to  Mar- 


alive  from  the  rapacity  of  the  boatmen, 
who  are  never  satisfied,  no  matter  how  well 
puid,  you  will  experience  a  lively  time  in 
getting  rid  of  the  most  importunate  of  hu- 
man beings,  the  Alexandria  donkey-drivers. 
A  crowd  of  New  York  hackmeu  is  a  heaven 
of  repose  in  comparison.  They  will  hem 
you  in  on,  every  side,  backing  their  don- 


seilles  via  Messina  and  the  Italian  coast ; 
to  Trieste  rin  Syria  and  t'ia  Malta.  It  is 
quite  clear  that  E.irypt,  and,  consequently, 
Alexandria,  must,  from  its  position,  become 
every  day  of  more  and  more  importance  to 
the  nations  of  the  world. 

The  population  of  Alexandria  is  very 
"mixed,"  consisting,  besides  the  native 
919 


ALEXANDRIA. 


[EGYPT.] 


ALEXANDRIA. 


Turks  and  Arabs,  of  Armenians,  Greeks, 
Syrians,  Maltese,  Jews,  and  Europeans  of 
almost  every  nation,  in  such  numbers  that 
it  may  be  questioned  whether  the  strangers 
you  notice  in  the  streets  would  not  be  more 
than  a  match  for  the  natives.  The  shops, 
displaying  even-  article  of  furniture,  and 
of  male  and  female  attire,  from  the  Pari- 
sian bonnet  of  the  latest  fashion  to  the 
very  humblest  article  of  dress,  all  conspire, 
in  conjunction  with  the  style  of  the  build- 
ings, to  take  away  from  this  place  the  ap- 
pearance of  an  Oriental  city. 

A  recent  English  writer  says  that  "the 
most  that  can  be  said  for  Alexandria  is 
that  it  is  an  inferior  Continental  town  :  its 
streets  peopled  with  Englishmen,  Italians, 
and  Greeks,  whose  wives  dress  in  bonnets 
and  Paris  mantles,  and  go  out  shopping  in 
the  afternoon  in  one-horse  clarences  and 
pony  phaetons.  Mosques  there  arc,  it  is 
true,  but,  being  in  the  back  streets,  they  are 
unseen  except  by  the  curious  in  such  mat- 
ters. There  arc  also  bazars,  but  they  are 
far  from  picturesque,  and  decidedly  dirty. 
As  for  turbans,  I  could  not  but  observe  a 
tendency  in  people  to  wind  cloths  round 
their  heads,  but  it  was  a  hard  race  be- 
tween them  and  the  wearer  of  hats.  I  was 
pleased  to  see  a  great  many  camels,  and 
to  observe  that  there  were  no  trees  but 
palms,  and  no  plants  but  orange-trees  and 
bananas.  But,  on  the  whole,  I  thought 
Alexandria  Eastern  only  in  name,  position 
on  the  map,  and  from  the  fact  of  its  pos- 
sessing Cleopatra's  Needle  and  Pompey's 
Pillar." 

There  are  few  objects  to  detain  the  trav- 
eler more  than  one  or  two  days  in  Alex- 
andria ;  he  will  find,  however,  great  amuse- 
ment in  the  novelty  and  drollery  of  the 
scene  around  him.  Mr.  Prime,  in  his 
"  Boat  Life,"  gives  a  most  faithful  and 
graphic  description  of  it.  He  says,  '•  The 
Egyptian  donkey  is  the  smallest  imagin- 
able animal  of  the  species;  the  average 
height  is  from  three  feet  and  a  half  to  four 
feet.  These  little  fellows  carry  incredible 
loads,  and  apparently  with  ease.  In  the 
square  were  scores  of  them.  Here  an  old 
Turk,  fat  and  shaky,  his  feet  reaching  to 
within  six  inches  of  the  ground,  went  trot- 
ting across  the  square ;  there  half  a  dozen 
half  naked  boys,  each  perched  between 
two  goat-skins  of  water.  Four  or  five  En- 
glish sailors,  full  of  wonderment  at  the 
920 


novel  mode  of  travel,  were  plunging  along 
at  a  fast  gallop,  and  got  foul  of  the  old 
Turk.  The  boys,  one  of  whom  always  fol- 
lows his  donkey,  however  swift  the  pace, 
belaboring  him  with  a  stick,  and  ingen- 
iously poking  him  in  the  ribs  or  under  the 
saddle  strap,  commenced  beating  each  oth- 
er. Two  ladies  and  two  gentlemen.  India 
passengers,  taking  their  first  donkey-ride, 
became  entangled  in  the  group.  Twenty 
long-legged  single-shirted/(//a/<e<:»  rushed 
up,  pome  with  donkeys  and  some  with  long 
rods.  A  row  of  camels  stalked  slowly  !  v, 
and  looked  with  quiet  eyes  at  the  increas- 
ing din ;  and  when  the  confusion  seemed 
to  be  inextricable,  a  splendid  carriage 
dashed  up  the  square,  and  fifty  yards  in 
advance  of  it  ran,  at  all  the  speed  of  a 
swift  horse,  an  elegantly-dressed  runner, 
waving  his  silver  rod.  and  shouting  to 
make  way  for  the  high  and  mighty  some- 
body ;  and  forthwith,  in  a  twinkling,  the 
mass  scattered  in  every  direction,  and  the 
square  was  free  again.  The  old  Turk 
ambled  along  his  way,  and  the  sailors  sur- 
rounded one  of  their  number  who  had  man- 
aged to  lose  his  seat  in  the  hubbub,  and 
•whose  curses  were  decidedly  home-like." 
The  grand  Square  of  the  Consuhis  the  cen- 
tre of  European  Alexandria.  Here  princi- 
pally took  place,  on  June  11,  1882,  the  mas- 
sacre of  the  Europeans,  which  indirectly 
led  to  the  bombardment  of  Alexandria  by 
the  British  fleet  under  Sir  F.  Beauchamp 
Seymour,  one  month  later.  Previous  to 
their  flight,  the  soldiers  set  fire  to  the 
square  ;  and  the  principal  hotels,  banks, 
steam-ship  offices,  consulates,  as  well  as  the 
Protestant  church,  were  burned.  At  each 
extremity  of  the  square  is  a  fountain,  which 
at  sunrise  and  sunset  are  surrounded  by 
Arabs  performing  their  ablutions,  modesty 
not  being  one  of  their  characteristics. 

Pompey's  Pillar.—  The  name  given  to 
this  column  is  without  historical  founda- 
tion ;  the  Greek  inscription  found  upon  it 
I  proves  it  to  have  been  erected  by  Publius, 
prefect  of  Egypt,  in  honor  of  Diocletian, 
•who  besieged  Alexandria  A.D.  296,  which, 
after  eight  months'  defense,  was  obliged  to 
capitulate,  when  thousands  were  massacred 
by  fire  and  sword.  The  height  of  the  pil- 
lar, including  the  shaft,  capital,  and  pe- 
destal, is  one  hundred  feet.  The  diameter 
at  the  base  is  ten  feet.  It  «*  of  red  pol- 
ished granite,  elegant  and  in  rfood  style, 


C   A 


o      ?' 

*       **      ;       /f 
'     -N7      /    ^.1':  <s\^ 

*•/      -      V^,f 

4:^  :£• 

l'W.39 

B3 


Hf 


R    O 


TIIK    OH  RAT    PYRAMID 


Form  of  the  Creat  Pyramid 

It   Hsw.tti,t  tc  fJ\r  fyrasnt*{      C  J?pfuu>rUa2-  prvlonga. 
b   PesctwJiny  {Battery  turn  of  the  gallery  b 


,  d  l*mtrvtireovttetJ*a>eti     &Indofsbe<,      _^ 

\iOi)ciuna  mad*  to  pent 
tra/re  isito  t/atiory  &  . 


\\Kntrancetalhrraelt 

O  /54tf  wt'U  r  Cfuxmter  oftfie  Sa 

in  ,  "A-unf'fr  ofiht  f/uMn,.  p  TSf  p.-wapaljfaffify    »  >Z«  emptff  jpaftf  above 

Plan  of  the  INTaraids  of  Ghizeh 


3 

•*,'*• 


ent 

to  rceewe  th*. 
'i?uj[  th&  pyramid  . 


Tomb 


6 


Entt- 

I)    7?trw  snuilt  piiT-wUds  1    Faxdted  tomb . 

Temples  be/brv.  th?  purarntfte.  8,B,H    Sepulchral  wells. 

K     /i/"J//(^/  *>fth*  daiufhteroftlttops.  9,9  Platform-ati  in  the  rock 

H    .)>'  :  1O.1O     H'ult      ' 


al.'ih  !(;f,,fttar  ,               M*   • 

."<;  tntJIor-Uia/WU       L1,1A 

12 

juine  »nwanKnirnt 
SuAterramtui  passage.  entrance  to 

/-                                                  K    Palms,  si/ 

(VUTKnVO-  a/M/  spring  - 

an  old.  pyramid. 

J.I     TfeOsfor 

&r-ir>*.tiny  mortar               13,  13 

Tombs 

i^:.  i 

Ground    Plan 

J»      <^,(   [    ,3W   «.-   >Trti 

19    ttab  Choa.'yeb 

35  Pmlais&son  harem 

x  ^x*-'          '-  A'nfiswat  tiuetAtieh 

2O    ft.ibci  IShiulr 

36  RdrierleKiamO.  fartui 

j3f                  3    Sittitttrut  i'l  .  Woiiskl 

21   Sob  el-fbutouJi 

37   Palais  d'Jbnakim  Podia,. 

1     4  ft          If   £ii*tt(ii\it  f/  ^:'m^r-_Saaas^ 

71  22   A«i»»..»ll>7- 

38  Jfatvm  d  Ibralum  Pacfui 

.">    Xtt/itafat  fiab  fl-Shai>g. 

23  Zabel-etiarayb. 

39  -^Kw/-  fl-J'yrty  (Hopitall. 

^IjtifS      6    J'r.v.-. 

2^    titlb  dwb  tfl-rrutrouJuf  . 

(K)   A'aJpetrifre  . 

**:y        7   Karitunit  ,4k 

25  JiabclrOunyr 

\\    P.tlaut  ii,<  tttml.A 

8  JSMhwt^gp^aMaiMMBvf 

*  26  /Y,/<if  fa>nfiietjl#Ji  . 

Vt   Obwroatoire 

0    AantMtf  *l'0mtB*-S&*h. 

27  .\\iui>i-Ue  chcutssee  d»1a-0i-  i3    famitHf. 

1O    XtftiOFOt  .-.- 

ta^-Ue. 

V*    Gain  '<i  Souitiui  Ha-tsan. 

LI    Hat*  \fheit  (*/  Rdcha.-. 

28  Place  Qammeydfui  . 

+  i   WIA-,  ;,:.>,.(.////,  iJalaaun  fOta^ 

!_'    fabcheifkh  Rih<ui. 

29  &i6  c&flwa/h/i 

1**    ftitb  st    /.. 

30  A*<5  (yvSi*y</V^  . 

VC>    fclwn  l(  t'<  -.Hu?u,i{  ,t  fiilb  -2an- 

IV  fabd-M/it 

31   vfo^  Jbtiteuil'. 

MHi 

i:>  /f<^v^\/. 

:f2  KatJlyout  Keu 

'*'     i.'am  ,i  .-<    M.t! 

Hi    .-                            XX  a. 

;{:?  /fab.ft-uJt'fi  . 

!>8    (««n'a  si  MtwvA 

17     A 

;?i   .Masquer  <*  hi/out  ,te.KJir- 

'*0   tr'am  'a  A'ulttin  tfiiiavun 

**+. 

' 

ALEXANDRIA. 


[EGYPT.] 


CAIRO. 


but  the  capital  and  pedestal  arc  inferior 
and  unfinished. 

Cleopatra  s  Needlts. —  These  two  obe- 
lisks, which  were  seen  at  the  east  part  of 
the  city,  near  the  shore,  the  one  standing, 
the  other  lying  down  and  nearly  covered 
with  earth,  are  of  red  granite,  and  formerly 
stood  before  the  Temple  of  Neptune,  at 
Heliopolis ;  one  of  them  is  65  feet  high, 
the  other  70.  Their  diameter  at  the  base 
is  between  seven  and  eight  feet.  They 
were  quarried  in  the  reign  of  Thothmes 
III.,  1495  B.C.,  and  are  consequently  now 
3376  years  old.  Mehemet  Ali  gave  the 
fallen  one  to  England,  the  standing  one  to 
the  United  States ;  the  former,  after  being 
lost  in  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  now  stands  on 
the  Victoria  embankment,  the  latter  in 
Central  Park,  after  an  attempted  seizure 
in  Cairo  by  government  creditors. 

The  Catacombs. — At  a  distance  of  about 
three  miles  from  the  hotels  may  be  seen 
these  remarkable  tombs.  They  can  lie 
reached  by  either  land  or  sea ;  if  by  land, 
which  is  preferable,  you  pass  some  ancient 
tombs  partially  sunk  in  the  sea;  having 
been  mistaken  for  baths,  the  natives  gave 
them  the  name  of  Baffin  di  Cleopatra.  It 
will  be  necessary  to  take  a  guide  with  you, 
unless  you  have  a  dragoman  by  the  day. 

The  Pasha's  Palace,  built  by  Mehemet 
Ali,  is  well  worth  a  visit.  A  permit  is  nec- 
ess  iry,  but  may  be  obtained  without  dif- 
ficulty. The  building  is  finely  situated, 
facing  the  sea,  and  is  surrounded  by  beau- 
tiful gardens.  The  grand  staircase  of  Car- 
rara marble,  and  the  audience  chamber, 
which  is  of  circular  form,  are  well  worth 
seeing.  At  this  palace,  commonly  called 
Ras-el-Tin,  the  Khedive,  Tewfik"  Pasha, 
-tayed  during  the  bombardment  of  Alex- 
andria in  July,  1882,  declining  the  hospi- 
tality of  the  British  admiral.  No  harm 
came  to  him,  though  the  palace,  through 
proximity  to  the  fort,  suffered  from  the 
bombardment,  and  Egyptian  soldiers  were 
sent  to  murder  him.  The  harem  build- 
ings opposite  are  not  open  to  visitors. 

Before  leaving  Alexandria  it  would  bo 
well  to  examine  and  see  if  you  have  every 
thing  requisite  for  your  trip  up  the  Nile 
that  you  can  not  get  reasonably  or  at  all  at 
Cairo.  As  the  shores  are  lined  with  every 
variety  of  game,  of  course  a  fowling-piece 
is  absolutely  indispensable.  A  good  pistol 


is  also  necessary.  Ammunition  is  yery 
expensive  in  Egypt;  bring  a  good  supply 
from  London.  Paris,  or  Malta.  It  can  bo 
purchased  at  the  latter  place  as  cheaply  as 
in  London.  A  telescope  and  opera-glass — 
buy  both  in  Paris;  the  telescope  is  not  abso- 
lutely necessary.  Wines  of  all  descriptions 
can  now  be  found  at  Alexandria,  although 
something  might  be  saved  if  coming  direct 
from  Marseilles;  and  Marsala,  which  is  con- 
sidered by  some  a  good  wine  on  the  Nile, 
can  be  purchased  at  a  low  price  at  Malta, 
Nearly  every  thing  requisite  for  the  travel- 
er may  now  be  obtained  in  Cairo,  although 
at  a  slight  advance.  The  Latakia  tobacco, 
which  is  the  beat  that  grows,  had  better  be 
purchased  in  Alexandria,  if  you  smoke. 

Do  not  make  any  engagement  with  a 
dragoman  until  you  arrive  at  Cairo  ;  you 
will  find  them  better  there.  The  regular 
price  of  a  dragoman  per  day  in  Alexandria 
is  live  francs  or  sixteen  piastres.  Achmet 
Talem,  who  may  be  found  at  the  Hotel  do 
1'Europe,  or  on  board  the  steamer  after  its 
arrival,  is  very  intelligent  and  trustworthy. 
The  author  employed  him  during  his  stay 
in  Alexandria,  and  liked  him  much. 

As  one  has  plenty  of  time  for  reading 
on  the  Nile,  lay  in  a  good  stock  of  such 
literature  as  you  best  enjoy,  either  at  Lon- 
don or  Paris,  although  a  fair  stock  may  be 
found  both  at  Alexandria  and  Cairo.  For 
works  on  Egypt,  buy  Wilkinson's  "An- 
cient Egyptians,"  "Modern  Egyptians," 
and  "Survey  of  Thebes;"  Pococke  and 
Hamilton's  "Egypt." 

From  Alexandria  to  Cairo,  distance  131 
miles.  Fare,  first  class,  100  piastres  = 
$5. 00 ;  time,  express  train,  4  hours  38  min- 
utes ;  other  trains,  6  and  7  hours. 

At  Benha  3rou  change  cars  for  Ismailid, 
Suez,  and  Zazazig. 

Alexandria  to  Trieste,  Athens,  Constunti. 
nople,  Port  Said,  etc.,  by  Austrian  Lloyd 
steamers,  see  advertisement. 

CAIRO. 

Cairo,  the  capital  of  Egypt,  lias  a  popu- 
lation of  887,462.  Though  called  Musr  !>y 
the  natives,  it  is  properly  El-Kahireh,  ••  The 
Victorious,"  having  been  founded  by  the 
Arab  conquerors  of  Egypt;  the  con^iu^l 
took  place  in  the  year  970-A.D.  It  is  situ- 
ated near  the  right  or  east  bank  of  the  Nile, 
alio".t  -jO  miles  above  the  apex  of  its  delta. 
921 


CAIRO. 


[EGYPT.] 


CAIRO. 


It  is  second  only  to  Constantinople  in  size 
in  the  Moham  niedan  world,  and  was  the  prin- 
cipal residence  of  the  Khedive  and  the  seat 
of  his  government,  as  well  as  of  the  British 
authorities.  On  Sept.  14, 1882,  thirty  hours 
after  the  battle  of  Tel-el-Kebir,  where  Arabi 
Pasha  and  his  associates  were  defeated,  the 
victorious  British  cavalry  under  General 
Drury  Lowe,  conspicuous  for  dash  and  hard 
blows  at  Kassassin  and  elsewhere,  gallop- 
ed into  Cairo  100  strong,  captured  Arabi  and 
Toulba  Pasha,  received  the  ke^-s,  and  the 
submission  of  12,000  soldiers  in  the  citadel. 
General  Sir  Garnet  Wolseley  arrived  on  the 
next  day  with  the  bulk  of  his  forces.  There 
is  at  present  a  strong  army  of  occupation. 

Take  a  survey  of  the  scene :  dragomans 
—  black,  yellow,  and  white — splendidly 
dressed  in  flowing  trowsers,  silk  and  satin 
vests,  embroidered  jackets,andimmense  tur- 
bans, quarreling  with  the  donkey-owners, 
who  are  quarreling  and  finding  fault  with 
the  donkey-drivers,  who  are  doing  the  same 
with  the  donkeys.  The  traveler  threat- 
ens to  belabor  the  dragoman,  the  drago- 
man does  belabor  the  owner,  the  owner 
belabors  the  boy,  and  the  boy  the  donkey. 
and  none  of  them  seem  to  care  much  for  it. 
Add  to  this  half-a-dozen  mountebanks ;  a 
dozen  dealers  in  relics,  turbans,  and  hand- 
kerchiefs ;  fifty  dogs, one  ofwhom  is  playing 
circus  with  a  monkey  on  his  back  ;  a  snake- 
charmer,  with  a  bagful  of  immense  snakes, 
all  standing  erect  (if  a  snake  can  stand), 
with  fangs  protruding,  ready  to  make  a 
pi unge  at  their  conqueror ,  who  o fFers to  swal- 
low any  one  of  them  for  a  shilling,  and  you 
have  a  faint  idea  of  what  is  daily  going  on. 

Hotels :  Da  Nil,  New,  Shepheard's,  Ori- 
ental. 

We  would  advise  the  traveler  to  make 
his  first  visit  to  the  Citadel,  from  whence 
he  will  get  an  idea  of  the  bearings  of  the 
different  objects  of  curiosity,  and  be  able 
to  more  round  the  city  without  the  assist- 
ance of  a  dragoman,  to  whom,  at  present, 
he  must  be  indebted  for  his  latitude  and 
longitude.  On  your  way  to  and  from  the 
citadel  you  will  visit,  the  mosque  of  Tay-  ! 
loon,  the  oldest  in  the  city,  the  mosque  of 
Sultan  Hassan,  the  splendid  mosque  of  Me- 
hemet  Ali,  the  pacha's  palace,  and  bazar  of 
Ghor^eh. 

From  the  citadel  is  displayed  a  magnifi- 
cent panorama.     To  the  east  are  seen  the 
obelisk  of  Heliopolis  and  the  tombs  of  the 
922 


,  Mamelukes ;  to  the  south  the  lofty  quar- 
ries of  Mount  Mokattem,  with  ruined  cas- 
tles, mouldering  domes,  and  the  remains 
of  other  edifices ;  southwest  and  west  are 
the  grand  aqueduct,  mosques,  and  mina- 
rets, the  Nile,  the  ruins  of  old  Cairo,  and 
the  island  and  groves  of  Rhoda ;  beyond 
the  river,  on  the  southwest,  the  town  (ihi- 
zeh,  amid  groves  of  sycamore,  fig,  and  palm 
trees;  still  more  remote,  the  pyramids  of 
Ghizeh  and  Sakkara,  and  beyond  these  tho 
great  Libyan  desert.  In  the  northern  di- 
rection may  be  seen  the  green  plains  of  the 
delta,  sprinkled  with  white  edifices ;  and 
to  the  north  and  northeast  of  the  spectator 
is  the  city  of  Cairo,  with  her  ./our  hundred 
mosques,  whose  sunlit  domes  are  glistening 
in  the  sun.  It  is  a  never-to-be-forgotten 
sight.  And  at  your  feet  the  spot  made 
memorable  by  Emin  Bey,  who  escaped  dur- 
ing the  well-known  massacre  of  the  Mame- 
lukes by  leaping  his  horse  a  frightful  dis- 
tance from  the  top  of  the  wall. 

The  circumstances  of  tho  massacre  were 
these :  Early  in  the  spring  of  1811,  Mehe- 
met  Ali,  who  by  his  genius  and  daring  had 
caused  himself  to  be  appointed  Pacha  of 
Egypt,  was  obliged  to  be  at  Suez,  to  super- 
intend the  preparations  for  his  Arabian  ex- 
pedition to  displace  the  Wahabees,  who  had 
driven  the  Turks  from  the  Holy  Land  of 
Arabia,  Mecca,  and  Medina.  While  there, 
he  received  information  that  the  Mameluke 
chiefs,  jealous  of  his  power,  intended  to 
waylay  him  on  his  return  from  Suez.  In- 
stead of  remaining  until  the  next  day,  as 
was  expected,  he  started  that  night  on  a 
dromedary,  and  in  ten  hours,  before  the 
break  of  day,  with  four  out  of  his  eighteen 
attendants,  he  entered  Cairo,  the  distance 
l>i'iii!4  80  miles!  This,  with  other  plots 
and  intrigues  of  the  Mamelukes  which  he 
had  discovered,  determined  him  to  exter- 
minate all  who  could  be  found.  The  day 
fixed  for  the  ceremony  of  investing  his  son, 
Toosoom  Pasha,  with  command  of  the  army 
was  the  1st  of  March,  1811.  All  the  prin- 
cipal chiefs  were  invited  to  be  present. 
When  the  ceremony  was  over  they  mount- 
oil  their  horses,  but,  on  reaching  the  gates, 
they  found  them  closed.  A  suspicion  of 
treachery  immediately  flashed  across  their 
minds,  which  was  confirmed  by  a  shower 
of  balls  from  behind  the  ramparts.  With 
the  single  exception  of  Emin  Bey,  who  took 
the  fearful  leap  alluded  to  above,  every 


CAIRO. 


[EGYPT.] 


CAIRO. 


soul  perished.  A  proclamation  was  then 
issued  to  exterminate  every  Mameluke 
found  in  tin-  city.  Ibrahim  Bey,  with  l.'di 
of  his  follower-.  pt-rMied  in  the  citadel,  and 
nearly  800  in  the  city. 

Cairo  is  surrounded  by  walls,  and  situ- 
ated in  the  midst  of  gardens  and  groves  of 
mimosas  and  palm-trees.  The  interior  of 
the  town  presents  a  hustling  and  animated 
scene  of  traffic,  in  which  Oriental  manners 
and  appearances  are  more  correctly  pre- 
served, and  more  vividly  presented  to  the 
eyes  of  the  stranger,  than  in  any  other  great 
city  of  the  East  in  the  present  day,  with 
the  sole  exception  of  Damascus.  The  civ- 
ilizing influences  of  the  West  have  not 
wholly  destroyed  the  charm  of  Oriental 
costumes  and  manners,  and  the  bazars  still 
retain  that  poetry  and  romance  which  looks 
you  in  the  face  from  out  every  page  of  the 
Arabian  Nights. 

The  houses  are  solidly  constructed  and 
lofty,  being  mostly  two  stories  high.  The 
roofs,  which  are  flat,  serve  for  domestic 
purposes,  and  are  the  resort  of  the  family 
in  the  cool  of  the  evening.  Most  consid- 
erable houses  inclose  an  open,  unpaved 
court,  into  which  the  doors  and  windows 
of  the  principal  apartments  open.  The 
front  doors  of  the  larger  houses  are  hand- 
somely carved,  painted,  decorated  with 
Arabic  inscriptions,  and  furnished  with  iron 
knockers  and  wooden  locks.  The  court- 
yard and  ground  commonly  contain  wells 
and  fountains,  and  sometimes  a  hall,  hand- 
somely fitted  up,  where  the  master  of  the 
house  receives  visitors.  The  upper  apart- 
ments are  those  of  the  women  and  children. 
The  mode  of  building  houses  in  Cairo  is 
such  that,  with  the  narrowness  of  the 
street,  they  nearly  meet  at  the  top,  each 
story  projecting  beyond  that  immediately 
below  it.  This  is,  however,  common  in 
many  towns  in  hot  climate?,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  obtaining  greater  coolness  ;  and  in 
nearly  all  business  streets  the  small  portion 
of  blue  sky  is  shut  out  by  mats,  awnings. 
or  boards.  Under  these  canopies  the  peo- 
ple gather  to  smoke  and  gossip,  ever  and 
anon  pushed  one  side  by  a  train  of  solemn 
camels,  who,  with  nose  erect,  thread  their 
noiseless  way :  here  the  shopkeeper  reclines 
listlessly  in  his  8  X  10  stall,  some  lying  half 
asleep,  while  others  are  stretched  in  pro- 
found repose,  all  yielding  to  the  influence 
of  a  climate  as  delightful  as  it  is  salutary. 


The  city  is  divided  into  different  quar. 
ters,  separated  from  each  other  by  gates, 
which  are  closed  at  night.  There  is  the 
Copt  quarter,  the  Jews'  quarter,  and  the 
Franks'  quarter.  By  this  latter  name  all 
Europeans  are  known  in  Cairo.  There  is 
a  gate-keeper  to  each  gate,  who  is  obliged 
to  open  to  every  proper  person  carrying  a 
lamp.  There  being  no  public  lamps  in 
the  city,  every  person  out  after  dark  is 
obliged  by  law  to  carry  one. 

The  number  of  dogs  in  Cairo  is  fully 
equal  to  those  in  Constantinople,  in  pro- 
portion to  the  size  of  the  city,  and  their 
habits  are  very  similar.  The}'  are  more 
divided  into  republics  than  in  Constantino- 
ple, and  woe  betide  the  "  foreign"  dog  who 
crosses  the  frontier  line.  He  is  immedi- 
ately attacked  by  the  entire  tribe ;  and  if  he 
succeeds  in  getting  into  his  own  territory 
again,  he  immediately  turns  on  his  pur- 
suers, with  the  confidence  that,  being  on 
his  "native  heath,"  he  is  safe  from  harm, 
and  ready  to  assume  the  offensive. 

The  principal  buildings  of  Cairo  nearly 
all  date  from  the  reign  of  the  Arabs  and 
the  ancient  sultans  of  Egypt.  We  must 
except,  however,  the  Jfotqve  of  Meftemet 
A  It,  recently  finished.  It  is  situated  in  the 
citadel,  and  is  fully  equal  to  any  thing  of 
the  kind  in  Constantinople.  The  ceiling 
is  divided  into  one  large  dome  in  the  cen- 
tre, surrounded  by  four  half  domes  of  the 
same  size,  at  the  four  corners  of  which  are 
four  smaller  domes.  On  the  side  toward 
Mecca  is  another  half  dome  the  size  of  the 
first.  The  columns,  which  arc  very  beau- 
tiful, have  ornamental  capitals  supporting 
round  arches.  Nearly  the  whole  of  the 
interior  is  of  Oriental  alabaster,  and  the 
general  effect  is  superb.  The  citadel  is 
supposed  to  occupy  the  site  of  the  Acropo- 
lis of  the  ancient  Egyptian  Babylon,  which 
occupied  the  site  of  the  still  more  ancient 
city  of  Latopolis,  which  dates  about  the 
same  as  Memphis.  In  1824  it  was  destroy- 
ed by  the  explosion  of  the  powder  maga- 
zine, when  nearly  4000  people  perished.  In 
addition  to  the  mosque  of  Mehemet  All,  it 
contains  the  pacha's  palace,  with  a  very 
fine  garden,  his  harem,  the  mint,  the  coun- 
cil-chamber, and  arsenal.  The  latter  con- 
tains a  cannon  foundery,  and  manufactures 
of  small  arms  and  military  equipments. 

M"fque  of  Tttylo/m. — This  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  mosques  of  Cairo  for  sev- 
923 


CAIRO. 


[EGYPT.] 


CAIRO. 


eral  reasons.  First,  it  is  supposed,  at  least 
that  is  the  tradition,  that  the  hill  Kalat-el- 
Kebsh,  on  which  it  was  built,  was  the  same 
on  whicli  rested  Noah's  ark ;  also  the  spot 
where  the  ram  was  sacrificed  by  Abraham. 
It  is  the  oldest  mosque  in  Egypt,  having 
been  built  ninety  years  before  Cairo  was 
founded,  and  was  not  inclosed  in  that  city 
until  the  time  of  Saladin.  Its  founder  was 
Ahmad  ebn  e'Tayloon,  who  was  governor 
in  Egypt  in  868  A.D.,and  usurped  the  sov- 
ereignty in  the  same  year.  It  is  the  old- 
est building  now  extant  built  with  pointed 
arches,  and  is  said  to  have  been  construct- 
ed after  the  plan  of  the  Raaba  at  Mecca, 
forming,  with  the  mosque  of  Amrou,  in 
old  Cairo,  the  true  type  of  the  primitive 
mosques.  It  is  a  large  square,  on  three 
sides  of  which  are  two  rows  of  columns, 
forming  a  double  gallery  30  feet  in  depth. 
On  the  fourth  side  of  the  court  are  five  rows 
of  columns,  forming  the  mosque  proper ; 
here  are  the  pulpit  and  reader's  chair.  In 
the  centre  of  the  court  is  the  fountain  of 
ablutions.  Surrounding  the  court  is  an 
outer  wall,  from  the  angles  of  which  rise 
four  minarets.  The  call  to  prayer  is  mado 
from  the  northwest  minaret,  on  the  outside 
of  which  was  built  a  circular  staircase,  that 
the  sultan  might  be  able  to  ride  to  the  top 
on  horseback.  Here  may  be  obtained  one 
of  the  finest  views  of  Cairo.  In  an  inclos- 
ure  in  the  court  of  the  mosque  stands  a 
tree,  to  point  out  the  place  where  Noah's 
ark  rested. 

The  Mosque  of  Sultan  Hassan  is  consid- 
ered the  finest  in  Cairo.  The  king  had 
the  hand  of  the  architect  cut  off,  that  he 
might  never  be  able  to  construct  another 
like  it.  Its  magnificently  ornamented 
porch,  its  beautiful  and  graceful  minaret 
and  extensive  court,  strikes  every  one  with 
admiration.  In  the  back  part  of  the  build- 
ing is  the  tomb  of  the  founder,  on  which 
rests  a  copy  of  the  Koran.  Above  the  tomb 
are  suspended  three  lamps. 

The  Mosque,  of  Sultan  Kalaoon,  which 
is  attached  to  the  Morastan,  or  Mad-house, 
is  well  worth  a  visit.  The  tombs  of  him- 
self and  son  are  also  here.  In  the  neigh- 
borhood are  numerous  other  fine  mosques 
and  tombs  of  caliphs  of  the  same  dynasty. 
Here  also  is  that  of  Sultan  Berkook,  and 
his  wife  and  daughter.  Here  may  be  seen 
a  fine  illuminated  copy  of  the  Koran  writ- 
ten by  the  ij'tter,  the  Princess  Fatima. 
924 


The  Mosques  of  El-Azhar,  El- Choree, 
and  J/assan  Ain  are  all  well  worth  a  visit. 

One  of  the  greatest  curiosities  to  be  seen 
when  on  your  visit  to  the  citadel  is  Beer 
Yuscf,  or  "Joseph's  Well."  It  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  hewn  in  the  rock  by 
the  ancient  Egyptians,  and  was  discovered 
by  the  Sultan  Saladin  when  erecting  the 
citadel.  It  is  15  feet  in  diameter  and  270 
in  depth,  which  brings  its  bottom  on  a  level 
with  the  Nile,  from  which  its  water  is  most 
probably  derived.  A  winding  staircase 
leads  to  the  bottom,  where  are  stationed 
two  mules,  which  turn  a  wheel  at  the  top ; 
around  the  wheel  a  rope  is  continually  re- 
volving, to  which  are  fastened  small  earth- 
en jugs  about  four  feet  apart.  They  de- 
scend bottom  up,  go  through  the  water  at 
the  bottom,  come  up  full,  and  discharge  at 
the  top.  This  is  kept  continually  going. 
The  mules  are  changed  every  four  hours. 
At  the  base  of  the  citadel  is  the  inclosure 
where  the  sheik  on  horseback  rides  over 
the  prostrate  forms  of  the  pilgrims  after 
their  return  from  Mecca,  the  wounded  vic- 
tims believing  the  more  they  suffer  the 
more  blessed  they  are. 

There  are  a  number  of  palaces  in  Cairo 
well  worth  a  visit ;  the  principal  are  those 
of  Mehemet  Ali  and  Ibrahim  Pasha,  Nuz- 
leh  Hanem,  daughter  of  Mehemet  Ali,  and 
Abbas  Pasha. 

There  are  a  large  number  of  baths  at 
Cairo,  though  few  of  them  are  very  mag- 
nificent; they  number  about  70  in  all. 
Although  there  are  over  1000  cafes  in  Cai- 
ro, few  of  them  are  worth  visiting. 

T\vo  of  the  principal  festivals  of  Cairo 
are  the  Departure  of  the  pilgrims  to  Mec- 
ca, and  their  Return.  These  occur  annu- 
ally. The  number  often  amounts  to  7000 
by  the  time  they  arrive  in  the  territory  of 
Mecca,  although  in  former  years  20,000 
was  not  an  unusual  number. 

Every  true  believer  in  the  Prophet  feels 
in  duty  bound,  if  possible,  to  make  a  pil- 
grimage to  Mecca  once  during  his  lifetime. 
The  principal  objects  of  attraction  in  this 
procession  are  the  Muhmel  and  Kisu-eh. 
The  origin  of  the  former  was  this :  The 
queen  of  Sultan  Saleh  Mohammed,  wishing 
to  make  the  pilgrimage,  and  wishing  to 
have  the  custom  continued  during  her 
dynasty,  sent  yearly  a  splendid  canopy, 
which  was  borne  by  a  camel  magnificently 
caparisoned.  The  custom  has  been  con- 


CAIRO. 


[EGYPT.] 


CAIRO. 


tinued ;  and,  although  the  camel  has  no 
rider,  he  is  the  chief  attraction  in  the  pro- 

rosion. 

The  city  of  Cairo  supplies,  once  a  year, 
the  Kisweh,  or  lining  for  the  Kaaba  of 
Mecca.  It  is  manufactured  of  rich  silk, 
and  splendidly  embroidered  with  gold. 
This  is  one  of  the  leading  features  of  the 
procession — the  new  one  going  to  Mecca, 
and  the  old  one  coming  from  Mecca. 

We  then  have  the  ceremony  of  opening 
the  grand  canal  at  old  Cairo.  This  takes 
place  about  the  middle  of  August,  previous 
to  the  inundation,  when  the  water  has  risen 
sufficiently  high  to  fill  the  canal  and  its 
tributaries  for  the  purpose  of  irrigation. 
Tlii.s  ceremony  is  performed  with  great 
pomp  by  the  governor  of  Cairo.  The  day 
and  night  arc  devoted  to  great  rejoicings, 
feastings,  and  illuminations. 

The  Jet  en  of  Ramadan,  the  birthday  of 
the  Prophet  Mohammed,  his  granddaugh- 
ter Saydeh.  Zayncl),  and  the  "two  Has- 
sans,'' are  all  celebrated  with  universal  re- 
joicings. 

The  extensive  tombs  of  the  Mamelukes, 
lying  to  the  east  of  the  city,  are  very  inter- 
esting; hut,  like  the  Pyramids  and  Colise- 
um at  Koine,  their  material  has  been  car- 
ried away  to  serve,  in  the  construction  of 
other  buildings.  To  visit  them,  you  go 
through  the  principal  gate  of  the  city,  IJab 
e'  Nusr,  or  "Gate  of  Victory,"  which  is 
well  worthy  of  observation. 

South  of  the  city  are  many  very  curious 
and  interesting  tombs,  among  which  arc 
those  of  Mehemct  Ali  and  his  sons,  with 
other  members  of  his  family. 

One  of  the  excursions  taken  by  all  trav- 
elers who  visit  Cairo,  and  which  is  laid 
down  in  all  guide-books,  is  that  to  the  site 
of  the  ancient  city  of  Heliopolis.  At  the, 
risk  of  being  condemned  by  other  writers 
for  not  possessing  sufficient  imagination  to 
make  this  excursion  interesting,  the  au- 
thor, as  well  as  his  companion,  thought 
themselves  "sold"  in  making  it.  If  a  five 
hours'  ride,  which  monopolizes  the  whole 
day,  half  the  distance  through  deep  warm 
sand,  with  a  burning  sun  beaming  down 
upon  your  head,  you  wish  to  travel  to  see 
a  column  such  as  you  see  at  Alexandria, 
Constantinople,  Paris,  or  Koine,  why,  well 
and  good,  go  !  It  may  be  said,  "  Hut  the 
ancient  city  of  Heliopolis  stood  here."  We 
think  it  was  Shelley  who  said  there  is  not 
VOL.  II.— R  2 


1  a  spot  of  land  upon  the  habitable  globe  on 
which  a  city  has  not  stood ;  and,  with  the 
exception  of  this  single  obelisk,  there  is 
not  a  stone  a  foot  square  indicating  the 
ruin  of  any  thing  here.  To  be  sure,  yon 
pass  the  sycamore-tree  under  which  it  is 
said  Joseph  and  the  Virgin  and  Child  rest- 
ed when  they  fled  into  Egypt,  and  where 
they  turned  the  salt  and  muddy  water  of 
a  fountain  near  by  into  a  sweet  and  limpid 
source.  It  was  here  also  that  the  French, 
under  Kleber,  defeated  the  Turks,  March 
19,  1800.  The  sycamore-tree  is  covered 

i  with  names   which   nobody  reads.     The 

j  obelisk  at  Heliopolis  is  about  70  feet  high 
above  the  pedestal,  G  feet  2  inches  in  di- 
ameter. Heliopolis,  though  very  cele- 
brated, was  a  town  of  small  size,  not  cov- 
ering over  16  acres,  according  to  the  cir- 
cuit of  its  walls. 

Since  the  erection  of  this   obelisk  by 

I  Osirtasen,  3600  years  ago,  the  inundations 
of  the  Nile  have  raised  the  surface  of  the 
soil  25  feet  above  the  obelisk's  base,  and, 
in  addition,  it  is  of  course  supposed  it  was 
erected  on  a  mound  of  considerable  emi- 
nence, as  was  and  is  still  the  custom  in 

Egypt- 

The  excursion  to  the  palace  and  gardens 
of  Shoobra  is  very  interesting.  They  are 
situated  about  four  miles  from  the  city. 
The  road  leading  to  them  is  about  120  feet 
wide,  shaded  all  the  way  with  beautiful 
acacia-trees,  planted  by  Mehemet  Ali  about 
fifty  years  ago. 

In  the  centre  of  a  magnificent  garden, 
redolent  with  the  perfume  of  roses,  gerani- 
ums, and  orange-blossoms,  stands  a  fount- 
ain inclosed  by  a  covered  corridor;  the  in- 
closure  is  about  300  feet  square,  filled  with 
water.  The  balustrades  surrounding  the 
fountain  are  of  beautiful  Carrara  marble, 
and  the  water  issues  out  of  the  mouths  of 
some  forty  alligators.  The  corridor,  or  pi- 
azza running  round  the  water,  is  beauti- 
fully paved  with  marble.  At  each  corner 
of  the  square  is  a  room  fitted  up  with  di- 
vans ;  one  is  the  billiard-room,  where  there 
is  an  excellent  full-length  portrait  of  Me- 
hemct Ali ;  the  next  the  reception-room  ; 
next,  dining  apartment :  this  latter  is  most 
magnificent ;  and  in  the  last  corner  the 
offices  of  the  guard.  This  is  the  play- 
ground of  the  members  of  the  pacha's  ha- 
rem. In  the  corridor  we  found  numerous 
ingenious  wagons,  worked  by  the  feet  and 
926 


OLD  CAIRO. 


[EGYPT.] 


THE  PYRAMIDS, 


guided  by  the  hand,  capable  of  being  pro- 
pelled around  the  piazza  with  great  rapid- 
ity. In  the  water  are  small  boats,  where 
some  of  the  members  of  the  harem  row 
races  with  the  wagoners  on  the  piazza, 
while  the  pacha  reclines,  surrounded  by 
his  favorite  wives,  in  the  centre  of  the 
fountain,  separated  from  the  others  by  a 
wall  of  rising  and  falling  water  issued  from 
the  mouths  of  the  marble  alligators,  while 
the  black  slaves  hurry  here  and  there  at- 
tending to  the  orders  of  their  mistresses. 

Close  to  this  building,  in  the  same  gar- 
den, is  another  splendid  kiosk,  which  is 
now  occupied  by  the  pacha's  brothers.  It 
is  built  on  an  elevation,  and  commands  a 
lovely  view  of  the  garden,  Nile,  and  sur- 
rounding scenery.  The  principal  apart- 
ment contains  a  lovely  fountain  in  the  cen- 
tre ;  the  walls,  floor,  and  all  the  surround- 
ings are  of  Oriental  alabaster.  In  the  only 
bedroom  in  the  building,  which  is  small, 
we  found  several  musical  instruments,  gui- 
tar, flute,  etc.,  with  a  small  but  well-se- 
lected library  of  our  best  authors,  in  En- 
glish, French,  and  Italian.  Flowers  sur- 
rounded the  library  in  every  direction, 
making  the  balmy  atmosphere  fragrant 
with  their  perfume.  The  sparkling  fount- 
ains, marble  floors,  arabesque  ceilings,  and 
fragrant  gardens  make  this  place  indeed 
an  earthly  paradise,  creating  a  longing  de- 
sire in  the  beholder  to  revel  forever  amid 
its  beauties.  Contiguous  to  this  garden  an 
immense  palace  is  in  process  of  erection  ; 
it  is  intended  for  a  harem.  The  oranges 
here  are  the  most  delicious  of  their  species. 

A  very  fine  excursion  may  be  made  to 
the  top  of  the  mountains  of  Mokattem,  to 
see  the  petrified  forest  or  wood ;  the  dis- 
tance is  about  six  miles. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  excursions 
in  the  vicinity  of  Cairo  is  that  to  old  Cairo 
and  the  island  of  Rhoda  —  delightful  not 
only  from  the  many  interesting  places  you 
see,  but  for  the  enchanting  ride  and  the  cu- 
rious people  you  meet. 

Old  Cairo  was  founded  A.D.  638  by  the 
conqueror  of  the  Romans,  Amer  ebn  el  As, 
where  he  also  built  a  mosque  that  still 
bears  his  name.  The  Roman  fortress  or 
station  was  close  by,  and  was  built  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Egyptian  Babylon. 
This  fortress  was  of  great  strength,  and 
withstood  the  attacks  of  the  Arabs  for 
seven  months.  The  mosqne  of  Omar  is 
926 


very  large,  and  in  a  very  dilapidated  con- 
clition ;  near  the  door  are  two  columns, 
about  ten  inches  apart ;  these  were  former- 
ly the  test  of  a  true  believer  in  the  Prophet. 
Any  person  not  being  able  to  pass  between 
them  was  set  down  as  an  infidel ;  they  now 
say  it  is  a  specific  cure  for  the  rheumatism 
to  pass  through.  There  is  a  Greek  con- 
vent here,  built  over  the  house  occupied  l>r 
Joseph,  the  Virgin,  and  the  infant  Christ. 
The  Virgin's  chair,  and  numerous  relics 
in  the  way  of  domestic  utensils,  are  shown. 
In  a  side  room  they  exhibit  a  font  in  which 
they  say  the  Savior  was  baptized !  Our 
donkey-boy,  in  describing  it,  said,  "When 
Christ  little  boy  he  Mussulman ;  fill  him 
water,  dip  little  boy  in,  he  come  out  Chris- 
tian: water  no  do  little  bojr  good."  Old 
Cairo  on  the  river  is  a  place  of  great  bus- 
tle and  activity. 

From  Cairo  you  cross  to  the  island  of 
Roda  or  Rhoda ;  it  is  about  two  miles  in 
length,  contains  some  beautiful  gardens, 
which  are  a  favorite  resort  of  the  Cairenes. 
It  also  contains  a  powder  magazine  and  the 
Nilometer,  which  latter  adjoins  the  palace 
and  harem  of  Hassan  Pacha.  The  Nilome- 
ter is  a  graduated  pillar,  about  40  feet  in 
height,  placed  in  a  well  15  feet  wide,  the 
entrance  to  which  is  covered  by  an  elegant 
wooden  dome,  which  was  erected  some  ten 
years  since,  the  former  stone  one  having 
been  thrown  down  by  accident.  The  low- 
est height  the  water  ever  rises  here  is  32 
feet;  40  is  perfect,  but  42  would  do  im- 
mense injury  to  the  country.  The  upper 
end  of  Rhoda  is  a  lovely  spot,  and  has  al- 
ways been  occupied  as  one  of  the  residences 
of  the  rulers  of  Egypt.  On  this  spot,  ac- 
cording to  tradition,  Thermusis,  daughter 
of  Pharaoh,  found  the  infant  Moses  in  the 
bulrushes. 

A  short  distance  down  the  river  you 
come  to  the  village  of  the  Dervishes,  whose 
most  remarkable  style  of  worship  is  well 
worth  a  visit  to  behold. 

We  reserve  the  most  interesting  excur- 
sion, that  to  the  Pyramids,  to  the  last,  for 
this  reason :  after  you  have  made  the  ascent 
to  the  top,  rode  there  and  back  again,  you 
will  neither  want  to  walk  nor  ride  for  sev- 
eral days  to  come! 

We  would  recommend  travelers  to  make 
an  excursion  from  Cairo  to  the  Pyramids, 
instead  of  from  their  boat  in  going  up  tho 
Nile,  for  various  reasons.  The  distance  as 


THF:  PYRAMIDS. 


[EGYPT.] 


THE  PYRAMIDS, 


the  crow  flies  from  old  Cairo  is  about  six 
miles,  but  in  the  months  of  November  and 
December,  at  the  time  visits  are  generally 
made,  it  is  necessary  to  follow  the  detour  of  | 
the  dike,  which  makes  the  whole  distance 
going  and  coming  nearly  -Js  miles  from  • 
Cairo  ;  add  to  that  the  ascent  and  descent 
of  Cheops,  the  visit  to  the  interior,  the  walk 
from  the  boat  up  the  hill,  walking  through 
the  -anil  to  the  Sphinx,  and  you  have  a 
hard  day's  work  before  you,  divided  thus:  j 
11  miles  donkey  riding — ladies  had  better 
take  a  carriage  to  old  Cairo  ;  that  will  give 
them  but  8  miles  donkey  riding — 2  miles 
boating,  and  1  mile  walking.  After  leav- 
ing Ghizeh  you  would  imagine  the  Pyra- 
mids were  not  over  a  mile  distant ;  such  is 
the  clearness  of  the  noon-day  air  of  Egypt, 
and  so  immensely  do  their  figures  stand  out 
in  the  distant  view. 

Lady  travelers  of  much  bashfulness  will 
find  considerably  to  condemn  in  the  boat- 
men and  guides  with  whom  they  may  this 
day  be  brought  in  contact.  One  garment 
alone  has  civilization  devoted  to  their  use, 
and  that  often  the  most  ragged  apology  for 
one  :  in  fact,  during  the  author's  visit,  and 
that  in  the  company  of  ladies,  he  noticed  ' 
these  full-grown  men  without  the  apology 
at  all. 

The  Pyramids  seem  equally  large  at  a 
distance  of  six  miles  as  at  one.  Arrived  at 
the  base  of  the  great  Pyramid  of  Cheops, 
and  seeing  the  enormous  size  of  the  masses 
of  stone  of  which  it  is  composed,  the  sense 
of  awe  produced  by  these  edifices  is  still 
farther  increased. 

In  addition  to  the  three  great  Pyramids 
here,  there  are  three  small  ones  standing 
beside  Cheops,  and  three  small  ones  beside 
the  third.  The  second  and  third  are  sur- 
rounded by  traces  of  square  inclosures, 
and  are  approached  through  enormous 
ina-ses  of  ruins,  as  if  of  some  great  temple, 
while  the  first  is  inclosed  on  three  sides 
by  long  rows  of  massive  tombs. 

By  an  examination  of  the  smooth  casing 
of  the  top  of  the  second  Pyramid,  and  the 
magnificent  granite  blocks  which  form  the 
lower  stages  of  the  third,  we  can  imagine 
what  they  must  all  have  been  from  top  to 
bottom.  The  highly-polished  granite  blocks 
which  we  see  in  the  interior  of  the  great 
Pyramid,  was  no  doubt  the  same  material 
which  composed  its  casing,  and  that  the 
whole  was  covered  with  sculptures.  In 


the  distance  we  see  the  groups  of  Abou- 
Sir.  Sakkara.  and  Dashtir.  In  short,  the 
whole  country  seems  a  vast  cemetery,  which 
extends  all  along  the  western  ridge  for  20 
miles  behind  Memphis. 

Cheops,  or  the  Great  Pyramid,  stands 
farthe.-t  north,  and  is  the  one  usually  as- 
cended and  entered  by  travelers.  It  is  780 
feet  high,  rising  from  a  base  which  meas- 
ures 764  feet  each  way,  and  which  covers 
eleven  acres  of  ground !  It  is  estimated 
that  Cheops  had  employed  100,000  men  for 
ten  years  to  make  the  causeway  from  the 
Nile  to  the  Pyramid  for  the  purpose  of 
conveying  the  stone,  and  360,000  men 
twenty  years  to  build  the  monument!  To 
have  some  conception  of  the  immense  size 
of  tliis  Pyramid,  it  is  well  to  remember  that 
the  tower  of  Strasbourg,  the  highest  in  Eu- 
rope, is  but  462  feet  in  height,  and  the  cu- 
pola of  St.  Peter's  in  Rome  429  feet. 

Dr.  Lepsius  states,  after  his  numerous 
researches  in  regard  to  the  Pyramids,  that 
their  construction  began  in  the  centre  and 
was  developed  externally,  after  the  man- 
ner of  sapwood  in  trees.  Thus  a  pyramid 
of  medium  size  was  first  constructed,  and 
successive  layers  were  then  added  to  it, 
each  layer  measuring  sixteen  or  eighteen 
feet  in  thickness,  and  increasing  the  pyra- 
mid in  size  and  elevation.  To  understand 
this,  it  must  be  remembered  that  each 
prince  of  the  ancient  monarchy,  immedi- 
ately after  his  ascension  to  the  throne,  be- 
gan the  construction  of  a  pyramidical  tomb, 
but  always  of  moderate  porportions,  to  in- 
sure its  achievement  in  case  of  his  death. 
So  long  as  the  reign  continued,  however, 
new  layers  were  gradually  added,  so  that 
the  size  of  a  pyramid  depended  on  the 
length  of  the  monarch's  reign.  Thus  it 
may  be  understood  why  some  are  of  such 
immense  proportions,  while  others  remain 
still  in  an  embryo  state.  On  the  death  of 
the  kings,  the  Pyramids  were  enveloped  in 
hard-polished  stones,  which  hid  the  grada- 
tions of  the  stones,  and  covered,  at  the  same 
time,  the  entrance  to  the  gallon-  leading  to 
the  sepulchral  chamber.  This  explanation 
is  justified  by  well-known  facts  posterior  to 
the  monarchy,  as  the  tombs  in  Upper  Egypt 
present  the  same  peculiarity. 

The  sheik  at  the  Pyramids  furnishes  two 

Arab  guides  to  help  to  make  the  ascent ; 

exercise  yourself  as  little  as  possible;  make 

them  do  all  the  work ;  each  guide  will  take 

927 


THE  PYRAMIDS. 


[EGYPT.] 


THE  PYRAMIDS 


you  by  a  hand ;  when  half  way  up,  there 
is  a  hollow  in  the  corner  of  the  Pyramid 
where  you  may  rest,  and  where  your  guides 
will  indirectly  indicate  your  life  is  in  their 
hands,  and  directly  demand  backsheesh. 
You  having  to  pay  the  sheik  one  dollar  for 
their  services,  will  you  refuse  as  directed  ? 
No !  nine  chances  out  often,  you  give  them 
something,  as  you  know  a  little  slip,  and 
where  would  you  be?  Well,  you  give 
them  some  backsheesh;  when  you  get  to 
the  top  they  will  shout  and  jump,  and  clap 
you  on  the  back,  feel  your  legs,  and  "good 
massar,"  "strong  massar,"  "gi  mi  back- 
sheesh." Then  you  "take  something,"  feel 
good,  look  down  at  the  glorious  landscape 
spread  before  you,  and — gi  em  backsheesh, 
and  the  chances  are,  while  you  are  in  the 
queen's  or  king's  chamber,  or  down  the 
well,  they  get  something  more  from  you. 
If  you  tell  them,  when  you  get  through 
with  them  you  will  give  them  something, 
they  will  tell  you  "the  sheik  will  take  it 
away  if  he  sees." 

The  summit  is  a  platform  about  32  feet 
square,  but  was  formerly  much  smaller  be- 
fore the  layer  which  hid  the  gradations  was 
employed  by  the  caliphs  in  the  construction 
of  Cairo.  The  view  from  the  top  is  very 
fine.  Before  you  may  be  seen  the  Nile 
winding  its  way  through  a  carpet  of  ver- 
dure, on  which  are  scattered  the  villages  of 
Ghizeh,  Fostat,  and  Boulak,  and  farther  on 
rises  Cairo  with  its  minarets. 

The  entrance  to  the  Pyramids  is  invari- 
ably on  the  northern  side.  In  the  Great 
Pyramid  we  enter  and  descend  through  the 
gallery  at  an  angle  of  twenty-five  decrees 
until  we  arrive  at  a  large  block  of  granite 
which  obstructs  the  passage.  Up  one  side 
of  this  we  are  helped  by  the  attending 
Arabs,  and  continue  in  another  gallery, 
which  rises  at  about  the  same  angle  that 
the  other  declined.  The  length  of  this 
rising  corridor  is  about  113  feet,  at  the  end 
of  which  it  is  much  enlarged,  and  divides 
into  two  galleries.  One  of  these  is  hori- 
zontal, and  leads  to  the  Chamber  of  the 
Queen.  Returning  to  the  point  where  the 
paths  divide,  a  large  opening  may  be  seen 
on  one  side,  called  the  Well ;  it  was  former- 
ly a  gallery  of  communication  with  a  lower 
corridor,  but  is  now  partially  closed.  Of 
the  two  galleries  which  we  have  just  men- 
tioned, the  second  is  called  the  Grand  Gal- 
lery, and  rises  to  the  centre  of  the  Pyramid, 
928 


until  it  reaches  a  vestibule  leading  to  the 
Chamber  of  the  Sarcophagus.  Here  the  roy- 
al remains  were  deposited.  The  sarcopha- 
gus, of  red  granite,  still  remains,  but  relic- 
hunters  have  proved  too  much  for  it ;  it  is 
fast  disappearing  under  their  Vandal  touch. 
'Tis  said  that  Mehemet  Ali  remarked  that, 
when  Europeans  were  censuring  the  Turks 
for  their  ignorance  in  destroying  so  many 
relics  of  antiquity,  they  set  a  very  bad  ex- 
ample to  those  of  whom  they  complain. 

The  second  Pyramid  was  built  by  Sen- 
Saophis,  son  of  Cheops  or  Saophis,  2083 
years  B.C.  Its  base  is  690  feet  square  and 
447  high.  It  was  first  opened  in  the  year 
1200  by  the  Sultan  El-Aziz-Othman,  son 
of  Saladin.  An  inscription  to  that  effect 
may  be  found  in  the  sepulchral  chamber; 
the  entrance  was  closed,  however,  immedi- 
ately afterward.  Belzoni  was  the  first  who, 
in  1816,  discovered  the  gallery  leading  to 
the  central  cave,  but  the  sarcophagus  then 
contained  nothing  but  earth.  On  the  up- 
per portion  of  this  pyramid,  the  outer  cov- 
ering of  polished  stones  still  remains,  mak- 
ing it  very  difficult  of  ascent. 

The  third  Pyramid,  built  by  Mencheres, 
is  333  feet  square  at  the  base  and  203  feet 
high.  This  Pyramid,  like  the  second,  was 
opened  and  shut  in  the  time  of  the  caliphs. 
Colonel  Wyse  was  the  first  to  re-explore 
the  interior  in  1837.  There  is  but  one 
chamber  in  this  Pyramid,  in  which  was 
found  a  stona  sarcophagus :  this  was  lost 
in  a  vessel  going  to  England  ;  but  a  wood- 
en coffin  and  a  mummy  found  in  the  pas- 
sage leading  to  the  chamber  are  now  in  the 
British  Museum. 


A  short  distance  from  the  Pyramids  is 
the  Sphinx — as  much  greater  than  all  other 
sphinxes  as  the  Pyramids  are  greater  than 
all  other  tombs.  It  is  now  so  covered  with 
sand  that  the  only  human  part — the  head 
and  body — are  visible.  The  whole  figure 
is  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  fore  paws,  and  worked  smooth. 
The  cap,  or  royal  helmet  of  Egypt,  has 
been  removed,  but  the  shape  of  the  top  of 
the  head  explains  bow  it  was  arranged. 
The  Sphinx  was  a  local  deity  of  the  Egyp- 
tians, and  was  treated  by  all  in  former 
times  with  divine  honors.  Immediately  un- 
der his  breast  an  altar  stood,  and  the  smoke 


THE  SPHINX. 


[EGYPT.] 


THE  PYRAMIDS. 


of  the  sacrifice  went  up  into  the  gigantic 
nostrils,  now  vanished  from  his  fact-.  The 
size  of  the  Sphinx,  as  given  liy  Piiny,  is, 
height,  143  feet;  circumference  round  tin- 
forehead,  102  feet.  The  paws  of  tin-  leo- 
nine  part  extended  5o  feet  in  front.  An 
inscription  cut  on  one  of  UK-  paws  has  been 
translated  by  Dr.  Young  : 
••Tay  form  stupendous  here  the  goda  have 

placed, 

Sparing  each  spot  of  harvest-bearing  land : 
And  with   thus   wondrous   work  of  art   have 

graced 

The  rocky  isle  encumbered  once  with  sand; 

And  near  thy  Pyramids  have  liid  thee  stand  : 

Not  that  fierce  Sphinx   that  Thebes  erewhiL- 

laid  waste, 

But  great  Latona's  servant,  mild  and  bland ; 
Watching  that  prince  beloved  who  fills  the 

throne 

Of  Egypt's  plain?,  and  calls  the  Nile  his  own. 
That  heavenly  monarch  (who  his  foes  defies), 
Like  Vulcan  powerful,  and  like  Pallas  wisi-." 

It  is  generally  understood  that  sphinx- 
es were  the  giant  representatives  and 
guards  of  royalty.  How  appropriate  a 
guard  this  Sphinx  of  Sphinxes  is  to  these 
tombs  of  tombs !  Though  mutilated  and 
defaced,  the  lonely  Sphinx  still  possesses 
a  strange  and  weird  beauty. 

"Comely  the  creature  is,  but  the  come- 
liness is  not  of  this  world.  The  once  wor- 
shiped beast  is  a  deformity  and  a  monstr-r 
to  this  generation ;  and  yet  you  can  see 
that  those  lips,  so  thick  and  heavy,  were 
fashioned  according  to  some  ancient  mode 
of  beauty,  some  mode  of  beauty  now  for- 
gotter  — forgotten  because  that  Greece  drew 
forth  Cytherea  from  the  flashing  foam  of 
the  ^Egean,  and  in  her  image  created  new 
forms  of  beauty,  and  made  it  a  law  among 
men  that  the  short  and  proudly-wreathed 
lip  should  stand  for  the  sign  and  main 
condition  of  loveliness  through  all  genera- 
tions to  come.  Yet  still  there  lives  on 
the  race  of  those  who  were  beautiful  in  the 
fashion  of  the  elder  world,  and  Christian 
girls  of  Coptic  blood  will  look  on  you  with 
tlii-  sad,  serious  gaze,  and  kiss  your  chari- 
table hand  with  the  big  pouting  lips  of  the 
very  Sphinx. 

••  Laugh  and  mock  if  you  will  at  the 
worship  of  stone  idols,  but  mark  ye  this, 
ye  breakers  of  images,  that  in  one  regard 
the  stone  idol  bears  awful  scinMa: 
Deity — unchangefulness  in  the  mid.-t  of 
changi — the  same  seeing,  will,  and  intent, 
forever  and  ever  inexorable  !  I'pon  ancient 
dynasties  of  Ethiopian  and  Egyptian  kings ; 


'  upon  Greek  and  Roman,  upon  Arab  and  Ok 
t'. m;. n  conquerors;  upon  Napoleon  dream- 
ing of  an  Eastern  empire :  upon  battle 
and  pestilence;  upon  the  ceaseless  misery 
of  the  Egyptian  race;  upon  keen-eyed 
travelers,  Herodotus  yesterday  and  War- 
burton  to-day;  upon  all  and  more,  this 
unworldly  Sphinx  has  watched  and  watch- 
ed, like  a  Providence,  with  the  same  earn- 
est eyes  and  the  same  sad,  tranquil  mien; 
and  we  shall  die,  and  Islam  shall  wither 
away,  and  still  that  sleepless  rock  will  lie 
watching  and  watching  the  works  of  a 
new,  busy  race  with  those  same  sad,  earn- 
est eyes  and  the  same  tranquil  mien  ever- 
lasting. Ytu  dare  not  mock  at  the  Sphinx." 

To  the  eastward  of  the  Sphinx,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Nile,  distinguishable  onlv  bv 
a  few  mounds  and  shapeless  heaps  of  ruins, 
stood  the  far-famed  ancient  city  of  Mem- 
phis, once  the  capital  of  Egypt.  The  vil- 
lage of  Mitraheny  now  occupies  a  por- 
tion of  its  site.  An  excursion  might  be 
made  to  this  village  from  the  Pyramids  to 
sec  the  colossus  of  Kcmeses,  the  vaulted 
tomb,  and  the  Pyramids  of  Sakkara  and 
Aboo-Sir. 

The  Pyramids  of  Sakkara  are  about  eight 
or  ten  in  number,  and  mostly  of  small  or 
medium  size.  Guides  may  be  found  at 
Sakkara  for  visiting  the  great  Pyramid, 
the  tombs  of  the  Ibis,  and  the  temple  of 
Serapis.  The  great  Pyramid  measures  on 
two  of  its  sides  390  feet,  and  on  the  remain- 
ing two  356;  contrary  to  the  general  rule 
of  these  monuments,  it  does  not  form  a  per- 
fect square  at  the  base.  In  the  centre  of 
this  Pyramid  is  a  large  well,  the  top  of 
which  is  on  a  line  with  the  base  of  the  Pyr- 
amid, and  descending  far  into  the  earth. 
The  sarcophagus  is  placed  in  a  cave  at  the 
bottom.  The  age  of  this  monument,  and 
the  name  of  the  king  whose  remains  were 
placed  here,  are  unknown.  In  one  of  the 
galleries  leading  to  a  chamber  now  closed, 
a  line  of  hieroglyphics  was  found,  giving 
the  name  of  an  ancient  king.  It  is  the 
only  inscription  of  the  kind  in  any  of  the 
Pyramids,  and  it  is  not  supposed  to  be  the 
date  of  the  monument. 

On  the  left  of  the  great  Pyramid  is  an- 
other, called  by  the  Arabs  (Mastahet  el-i'i- 
ron'n)  the  throne  of  Pharaoh.  It  does  not 
seem  to  have  been  finished,  and  presents 
to-day  a  mass  of  ruins  hardly  bearing  the 
pvramidical  form.  Its  date,  also,  is  un- 
929 


TEMPLE  OF  SERAPIS. 


[EGYPT.] 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


known.  In  the  surroundings  of  Sakkara 
may  be  found  numerous  wells,  containing 
mummies  of  the  sacred  animals,  of  ser- 
pents, cows,  the  ibis,  sheep,  and  also  hu- 
man mummies,  all  more  or  less  injured  by 
the  dampness. 

The  mummies  of  the  ibis  are  north  of  the 
Pyramid,  and  are  inclosed  in  earthenware 
vases  in  the  form  of  sugar-loaves.  Some 
of  them  have  the  beak,  the  feet,  and  some- 
times part  of  the  feathers  perfect,  but  most 
of  them  are  carbonized  or  turned  to  dust. 

The  Temple  of  Serajns  was  discovered 
by  M.  Mariette  in  1850,  and,  after  much 
difficulty,  was  excavated  under  his  direc- 
tion. An  avenue  of  more  than  140  sphinxes 
was  thus  brought  to  light  leading  to  the 
temple,  but  it  has  been  again  almost  en- 
tirely refilled  by  the  drifting  sands. 


Q30 


INSTRUCTIONS   FOR   A   VOYAGE  TO  UPPER 
EGYPT. 

Steamers  of  all  sizes  are  placed  at  the 
disposal  of  travelers  for  a  trip  up  the  Nile 
from  Cairo  to  Philae,  and  from  Philoe  to 
Wadi  Halfi  (the  second  cataract).  These 
steamers  are  under  the  direction  of  the 
Viceroy,  and  managed  by  Thomas  Cook  & 
Son.  A  company  of  from  twenty-five  to 
thirty  persons  may  engage  one  for  the 
trip,  which,  to  make  the  ascent  as  far  as 
Assouan,  and  return,  generally  takes  about 
three  weeks.  Fare  to  the  first  cataract 
and  back,  $235 ;  to  the  second  cataract  and 
back  to  Cairo,  $400.  This  includes  every 
thing— guides,  donkeys,  saddles,  etc.  The 
railroad  now  extends  along  the  Nile  from 
Alexandria  to  Minieh,  thus  shortening,  if 
desired,  the  trip  by  steamer. 

During  the  voyage  the  steamers  will 
stop  at  all  stations  where  monuments  of 
antiquity  are  to  be  seen,  as  follows :  two 
hours  at  Beni-Souef :  two  hours  at  Minieh 
(horses  or  donkeys  will  l>e  furnished  here  to 
visit  the  grottoes  of  Beni-Hassan) ;  three 
hours  at  Beni-Hassan ;  five  hours  at  Siout ; 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


[EGYPT.] 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


two  hours  at  Guirgueh;  eight  hours  at 
Quench  and  Denderah ;  three  days  at 
Thebes,  to  visit  the  temples  of  Karnak, 
Luxor,  and  the  environs;  three  hours  at 
Esneh  ;  six  hours  at  Kdfou  ;  two  hours  at 
Kom-Ambou  andGebel-el-Silsila;  two  days 
at  Assouan — in  all,  seven  days  and  nine 
boon. 

In  returning  from  Assouan  the  steamers 
will  stop  only  one  hour  at  the  following 
six  places  :  Kom-Ambou,  Edfou,  Esneh, 
Thebes,  Quench,  and  Sioot. 

Arrangements  in  regard  to  Meals. 

At  8  o'clock  A.M.,  coffee,  tea,  milk,  and 
biscuit;  at  11  o'clock  A.M.,  five  different 
dishes,  six  kinds  of  dessert,  and  coffee  ;  at 
5  o'clock  P.M.,  six  different  dishes,  six 
kinds  of  dessert,  and  coffee  ;  in  the  even- 
ing, tea  and  biscuit. 

If  all  the  passengers,  in  accord,  desire  to 
leave  any  of  the  stations  before  the  appoint- 
ed time,  and  will  ^ive  thc'captain  a  written 
request  signed  by  the  entire  party,  then  he 
will  be  obliged  to  leave  immediately  :  in 
this  case  the  passengers  will  have  no  right 
to  demand  any  compensation  for  the  differ- 
ence in  time.  But  if,  on  the  contrary,  any 
of  the  passengers,  however  small  may  be 
their  number,  are  opposed  to  this  change, 
then  the  captain  must  leave  at  the  appoint- 
ed time. 

The  administration  will  not  be  responsi- 
ble for  money  or  valuables  unless  delivered 
to  it. 

Children  under  ten  years  of  age  will  only 
p:iy  half  fare ;  under  four  years  of  age  no 
passage-money  will  be  demanded. 

Passengers  are  not  compelled  to  give 
fees  to  the  servants  or  employes  of  the 
company,  although  it  is  done  more  or  less. 

If  any  passenger,  after  having  received 
his  ticket,  should  not  come  on  board  at  the 
appointed  time,  he  will  be  received  on  the 
next  steamer  by  showing  his  ticket  for  the 
one  before  ;  but  if  he  should  happen  to  miss 
the  next  steamer,  he  will  have  to  pay  for 
another  ticket,  his  former  one  being  no 
longer  of  value. 

If  any  one  of  the  passengers,  before  ar- 
riving at  the  station  to  which  he  has  paid 
his  passage,  should  desire  to  disembark,  he 
can  do  so  by  giving  up  his  ticket  and  losing 
all  right  to  any  difference  in  price. 

The  administration  keeps  a  good  doctor 
on  board  each  steamer. 


Tho  steamers  usually  start  from  Boolak, 
the  port  of  Cairo,  at  3  o'clock  P.M.,  stop- 
ping the  first  night  at  Bedreshayn,  or  Mem- 
phis, on  the  west  bank ;  the  next  night  at 
Benisooef;  third  night  at  Minych;  fourth 
night,  Tel-el-Ainarna  ;  fifth  night,  Assioot; 
sixth  night,  Sohag ;  seventh,  Kenneh ; 
eighth,  Thebes  ;  three  days  at  Thebes,  one 
day  to  Esneh,  one  to  Edfoo,  and  one  to  the 
Island  of  Philse,  which  is  at  the  first  cata- 
ract. Steamers  leave  Philse  twice  a  month 
for  the  second  cataract,  to  correspond  with 
those  from  Cairo. 

Lady  travelers  should  hire  saddles  for 
the  trip  at  Cairo,  few  being  kept  on  board 
the  steamer  and  none  to  be  had  at  the 
towns  above.  It  would  be  better  to  buy 
saddles,  especially  if  intending  to  make  the 
Syrian  trip  ;  it  is  the  cheapest  investment 
one  can  make,  and,  should  you  want  to  dis- 
pose of  them  when  through,  you  can  do  so 
at  about  one  half  the  first  cost.  You  can 
buy  a  very  nice  English  or  French  gentle- 
man's saddle  for  twenty  dollars  ;  a  lady's 
should  not  cost  over  twenty-five  or  thirty. 

If  you  have  made  your  contract  with 
your  dragoman  for  your  Syrian  trip,  it 
would  be  well  to  take  him  with  you  on  tha 
steamer,  for  the  purpose  of  serving  you  in 
a  thousand  ways.  The  author  here  wish- 
es to  record  the  fine  abilities  and  honesty 
of  Achmet  Salem,  his  dragoman  during  his 
trip  up  the  Nile  and  a  tour  of  forty  days  in 
the  Holy  Land.  We  have  never  seen  hia 
equal. 

Boats,  or  Dahabeehs. — If  the  traveler  pre- 
fer making  the  ascent  of  the  Nile  in  a  daha- 
beeh,  and  if  going  to  the  second  cataract, 
which  will  occupy  three  months,  he  should 
start  from  the  middle  of  November  to  the 
first  of  December  ;  if  to  the  first  cataract, 
which  will  occupy  two  months,  the  time  is 
generally  from  the  loth  of  December  to 
the  loth  of  January.  This  will  bring  the 
time  right  for  making  the  tour  of  Palestine 
and  Syria,  which  should  commence  about 
the  middle  of  March,  devoting  two  weeks 
to  the  Ked  Sea  and  the  Suez  Canal.  The 
distance  from  Cairo  to  Assouan  is  585  miles. 
From  Assouan  to  Wadi  Haifa,  the  second 
cataract,  the  distance  is  219  miles.  The 
mau'iiilicent  cavern  temple  of  A  boo  Simbel, 
second  only  to  Thebes  in  grandeur,  is  forty 
miles  below  the  second  cataract.  The  ex- 
pense of  this  excursion  depends  in  a  great 
measure  on  the  taste  and  means  of  the  tray 
931 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


[EGYPT.] 


INSTBUCTIONS. 


eler :  you  can  live  on  a  Nile  boat  as  you 
live  in  a  hotel,  first,  second,  or  third  class. 
Travelers  who  can  aftbrd  it  should  try  and 
get  the  best:  you  are  entertained  in  pro- 
portion to  what  you  pay ;  so  it  is  in  the 
Holy  Land.  Dragomans  have  $6  per  day. 
horses,  saddles,  cooks,  etc. ;  they  have  a 
different  class  at  £10  per  day.  If  with 
five  or  six  persons,  you  can  go  for  $5  or  $G 
per  day,  or  for  $7  or  $8  per  day ;  if  with 
one  or  two  others,  every  thing  first  class,  it 
should  cost  $10  per  day  :  this  includes  boat, 
provisions  of  the  best  quality,  all  the  boat- 
men, donkeys  to  visit  the  monuments,  pay 
for  taking  the  boat  over  the  cataracts — in 
fact,  every  thing.  Get  a  good  dragoman, 
well  recommended,  and  make  a  contract 
with  him  ;  draw  up  the  documents  in  pres- 
ence of  the  consul  or  vice-consul,  and  watch 
carefully  that  he  fulfills  all  the  conditions, 
and  you  will  live  better  on  the  Nile  than 
in  the  hotel.  If  jrou  are  alone,  and  of  good  j 
disposition,  you  may  fall  in  with  a  party  at 
the  hotel  to  join.  As  much  of  the  pleasure 
of  the  Nile  voyage  depends  on  the  disposi- 
tions of  the  parties,  it  would  perhaps  be 
better  to  select  your  companions  before 
coming  to  Egypt ;  you  would  then  be  pre- 
pared to  act  at  once.  Going  up  alone 
would  be  stupid,  and  more  expensive,  but 
better  than  with  a  disagreeable  person 
from  whom  you  could  not  separate  after 
having  started.  A  party  of  two  is  also 
too  small,  unless  two  very  dear  friends. 
Four  is  the  best  number;  five  is  one  too 
many. 

You  must  stipulate  with  your  dragoman 
for  the  number  of  days'  stoppage  to  visit 
the  tombs ;  twenty  will  be  sufficient  if  you 
go  to  the  second  cataract,  and  fifteen  if 
only  to  the  first.  Also  contract,  in  case 
you  should  wish  to  remain  over  that  time, 
how  much  you  must  pay  per  day.  Also 
see  that  the  number  of  men  mentioned  in 
the  contract  is  sufficient  to  man  the  boat 
properly;  that  the  vessel  is  thoroughly 
painted  and  varnished ;  and  that  the  sails, 
ropes,  oars,  and  every  thing  are  in  proper 
condition  ;  that  the  sailors  will  be  obedient 
to  the  orders  of  the  hirer ;  that  they  will 
be  obliged  to  tow  the  dahabeeh  whenever 
necessity  requires  it.  It  is  customary  to  pay 
one  month  in  advance.  Have  it  well  un- 
derstood that  you  will  in  no  way  be  re- 
sponsible for  any  accident  that  may  hap- 
pen to  the  boat  at  the  cataracts  or  any 
932 


other  place.  If  you  wish  to  go  above  the 
first  cataract  your  boat  must  not  be  of  the 
largest  kind.  Supply  yourself  with  every 
thing  you  want  before  you  leave  in  the  way 
of  guide-books,  maps,  medicines,  guns  and 
pistols  (with  the  different  varieties  of  am- 
munition), and  an  American  and  private 
signal  flag.  The  dragoman  usually  makes 
out  a  list  of  such  things  as  he  is  in  the 
habit  of  buying ;  any  additional  articles 
that  you  may  suggest  he  will  cheerfully 
furnish.  He  should  also  inform  you  that 
it  is  impossible  to  get  small  coin  in  Upper 
Egypt,  and  that,  although  your  dragoman 
agrees  to  pay  all  fees,  donkey  hire,  etc., 
still  you  will  want  money  for  relics  or 
something  else. 

It  is  superfluous  to  tell  intelligent  trav. 
elers  that  they  must  take  suitable  clothing 
for  both  hot  and  cold  weather — the  same 
they  would  use  at  home  for  roughing  it, 
perhaps.  With  the  exception  of  some 
white  sun-shades,  and  green  veils  to  guard 
your  eyes  against  a  noon-day  sun,  vou  can 
dress  precisely  as  you  would  at  home  dur- 
ing the  summer. 

Should  the  traveler  prefer  attending  to 
the  supplying  or  stocking  of  his  own  boat 
(which  we  do  not  recommend,  thinking  it 
better  to  let  the  whole  matter  rest  with  the 
dragoman,  if  you  have  a  good  one),  we 
quote  the  list  of  supplies  laid  in  for  threa 
persons  for  two  months,  calling  attention 
to  the  fact  that  the  supplies  were  for  three 
gentlemen;  should  there  be  ladies  in  votir 
party,  the  proportion  of  wine  and  cigars 
must  be  taken  in  consideration.  We  also 
give  a  cop}-  of  the  contract  made  directly 
with  the  reis  or  captain  of  the  boat,  and 
not  with  the  dragoman  : 

"  In  choosing  a  bark  it  is  particularly 
necessary  to  ascertain  that  it  has  been  re- 
cently sunk,  and  that  it  is  also  fresh  paint- 
ed inside,  which  is  done  to  destroy  the  ver- 
min, especially  rats  and  bugs.  It  must  then 
be  seen  that  the  bark  is  roomy,  that  all  the 
windows  are  whole,  that  the  sails,  oars,  and 
spars  are  in  good  condition,  that  the  benches 
for  sleeping  on  in  the  cabin  are  covered 
with  cushions  and  furnished  with  musquito- 
nets,  that  there  is  a  proper  washing  appa- 
ratus, a  fireplace  and  a  baking-oven  cov- 
ered  with  a  roof,  that  looking-glasses  are  in 
the  cabins,  and  a  large  pitcher  on  deck,  in 
which  the  water  of  the  Nile  is  made  drink- 
able. Finally  inquiries  ought  to  be  made 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


[EGYPT.] 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


respecting  the  reputation  of  the  reis  (cap- 
taiii),  and  whether  the  bark  is  one  of  the 
best  kind  of  sailing  vessels. 

"When  all  this  has  been  Ascertained,  the 
traveler  ought  to  go  with  the  reis  to  the 
consulate  to  draw  up  a  written  contract. 
This  is  written  out  in  two  copies,  and  sign- 
ed and  sealed  by  both  parties.  The  trav- 
eler will  do  well  to  have  his  contract  with 
\im  during  the  voyage.'' 

topy  of  Contract  between  a  Tourist  and  Reis. 

"1.  Saturday,  the — th  of  the  month  Ilabi 
acher,  in  the  year  1273  (January,  1X57),  the 
lii-is  Ibrahim  lets  out  a  bark  of  200  Ardeb 
tonnage  to  Mr.  L.,  to  go  from  Cairo  to  As- 
souan, at  a  cost  of  £40  for  the  whole  voyage 
of  sixty  days,  counting  from  Sunday,  the 
llth  of  January,  1x57,  £'2G  to  be  paid  in 
advance,  the  remainder  on  a  safe  return. 

"2.  The  crew  must  c  nisi-t  of  eight  sail- 
ors, a  mate,  and  a  reis.  They  must  all  be 
healthy,  strong,  and  obedient  to  the  com- 
mands of  the  hirer.  Xo  one  must  leave 
the  ship  without  his  permission.  If  one 
of  the  crew  runs  away  or  becomes  incapable 
of  working  during  the  voyage,  he  must  be 
replaced  by  another  immediately. 

"  3.  The  departure  of  the  boat  depends 
upon  the  pleasure  of  the  hirer.  The  reis 
is  bound  to  lay  to  during  the  night  near 
safe  villages,  and  to  station  two  men  on 
the  watch. 

"4.  The  reis  is  bound  to  allow  the  hirer 
twelve  days  for  visiting  the  places  he  wishes 
to  see.  If  the  latter  desires  to  stay  longer, 
he  is  bound  to  give  a  compensation  for 
each  following  day  agreeable  to  the  con- 
tract. 

"  5.  The  gentlemen  on  their  part  allow 
the  reis  to  lie  by  twenty-four  hours  at  As- 
sioot  and  Esneh,  to  buy  provisions  and  to 
have  bread  baked. 

"6.  If  the  voyage  lasts  longer  than  sixty 
days,  including  the  twelve  days  mentioned 
in  §  4  and  the  two  in  §  o,  it  is  not  necessary 
for  the  hirers  to  pay  extra. 

"7.  The  bark  must  be  kept  clean.  The 
re  is  is  bound  under  all  circumstances  to  go 
as  far  as  Assouan,  and  to  have  the  bark 
towed  if  the  wind  is  contrary,  and  to  have 
it  rowed  when  returning. 

"8.  The  owner  has  no  right  to  claim 
any  indemnification  if  the  vessel  is  dam- 
aged during  the  voyage. 

"  Sealed  and  signed,  etc. 


"The  expense  of  a  bark  depends  upon  its 
size  and  fitting  up,  and  on  the  season :  a 
very  large  and  beautifully  fitted  up  bark, 
£50  to  £70.  The  wages  of  the  ship's  com- 
pany is  always  included,  but  it  is  customa- 
ry in  Assioot  and  Esneh  to  give  a  sheep, 
and,  if  they  have  conducted  themselves 
well,  to  send  them  a  present  of  a  few  dol- 
lars when  returned  to  Cairo.  No  attention 
is  to  be  paid  to  any  other  claim  they  may 
make,  though  they  beg  bakshish  at  every 
town  they  pass. 

"Provisions. — This  depends  upon  the 
tourists  themselves.  For  those  accustom- 
ed to  the  luxuries  of  the  Grand  Seigneur 
we  give  no  calculation,  as  expense  will  be 
a  secondary  consideration  to  them.  To 
make  the  tour  pleasant  and  convenient,  ac- 
cording to  the  general  acceptation  of  the 
terms,  the  following  outfit  and  provisions — 
which  were  amply  sufficient  for  three  per- 
sons during  a  two  months'  tour  to  Assouan 
and  back — is  offered. 

"  In  making  purchases  of  provisions,  etc., 
the  tourisa  should  be  accompanied  by  a 
dragoman,  or  employ  an  agent,  who  may 
IMJ  found  at  any  hotel,  in  order  to  see  that 
the  articles  delivered  correspond  in  quali- 
ty, measure,  and  weight  guaranteed  by  the 
seller  or  broker,  and  at  the  same  time 
should  have  a  bill.  It  is  always  better  to 
purchase  rather  too  much  than  too  little,  as 
sometimes  the  tour  is  protracted,  and  many 
things  are  not  to  be  had,  or  at  a  very  high 
price,  in  Upper  Egypt,  and  those  articles 
which  have  not  been  used  at  all  may  be 
sold  again  on  the  return  to  Cairo.  Many 
dragomans  undertake  the  office  of  cook ;  if 
not,  however,  a  cook  must  be  engaged  at  a 
salary  of  from  £4  to  £5  a  month. 

"Provision  and  outfit  of  a  Nile  bark  for 
three  persons  for  two  months. 

"20  oka  rice. 

15     "    maccaroni  and  vermicelli. 
30     "    flour  for  bread. 
18     "    potatoes  (generally  bad  in  Egypt)i 
2     "    white  beans. 
2     "    Egyptian  lentils. 
6     "    onions. 
2     "    greuts. 

2     "    ground  grits,  etc.,  for  soup, 
for    100     piasters,  fowls,  eggs,  butter, 
bread, muttonand  beef,  enough 
to  last  three  days  as  far  as 
Benisooef. 

933 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


[EGYPT.] 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


Provision  and  outfit — Continued. 

2  oka  dried  apricots. 
1    "    raisins. 
1     "    almonds. 

1  "    dried  plums. 
800  oranges. 

50  lemons. 

2  Ibs.  chocolate. 
4  oka  loaf  sugar. 

1  bottle  mixed  pickles. 

1     "     fish  sauce. 

4  cases  green  vegetables. 

1  dried  codfish. 

1  Cheshire  cheese. 

1  Dutch  cheese. 

4  oka  biscuits. 

4    "    sugar. 

8    "    coffee. 

1  "    tea. 

2  rotl  salt  in  tin  cases. 

4  fruit  sausages  from  the  Sinai  (contain- 
ing dates  and  almonds). 
Spices  for  10  piasters. 
2  oka  soap  for  washing  linen. 

1  bottle  salad  oil. 

2  oka  lamp  oil. 

2  bottles  vinegar. 
4  cases  of  anchovies. 

2  "     mustard. 

60  bottles  Hungarian  red  wine. 
12       ' '      Somlo  wine. 
20      "      ale. 

8      "      aqua  vita;. 

8       "       brand}-. 

4  oka  composition  candles. 

6    "     Dshebelli  tobacco. 

1000  cigars. 

3  doz.  pipe  bowls  (which  are  very  brit- 

tle). 

•J-  doz.  cut  tumblers. 
|    '       "          "       small. 
•}•    *     tea-cups  and  saucers. 
$    '      small  Turkish  coffee-cups. 
•J    '      plates. 
\    '      soup  plates. 

1  soup  tureen. 

2  Assiettes. 

J  doz.  table-spoons. 
J    ' '    tea-spoons. 
\    "    knives  and  forks. 
1  salt-cellar. 

1  tea-board. 

2  candlesticks. 
1  ship  lantern. 
1  cabin      " 

934 


"  And,  farther,  a  tinned  copper,  2  tubs 
with  covers,  2  pans,  6  earthen-ware  pots  for 
boiling  and  baking,  G  gullihs  (Egyptian 
earthen  water-bottles),  1  pail  for  fetching 
water,  1  pail  for  washing  up,  1  kitchen  ta- 
ble, 1  tin  coffee  and  tea  pot,  1  ladle,  1  soup- 
ladle,  1  grater,  1  butcher's  knife,  1  hack 
knife,  1  gridiron,  1  sieve,  1  pudding  form, 
1  tin  pot  for  water,  1  hen-coop,  1  gauze 
cover  for  cold  meat,  etc.,  fire-wood,  and 
charcoal  for  a  week,  table-cloths,  towels, 
pillow-cases,  sheets,  and  blankets,  blacking 
and  brushes,  a  broom,  a  few  dusters,  a  large 
case  for  crockery  and  small  kitchen  iitcn- 
sils,  and,  lastly,  powder  (quassia)  for  de- 
stroying the  troublesome  Hies  on  the  Nile, 
arrow-root  and  gum  arabic  in  case  of  an  at- 
tack of  diarrhoea,  rose-water  for  inflamed 
eyes,  Epsom  salts  or  castor  oil  for  djrsen- 
tery,  and  a  few  ounces  of  alum  for  clarify- 
ing water. 

"  Apparatus  for  drawing,  and  station- 
ery, must  be  brought  from  Europe  or  from 
Cairo.  Matches,  and  paper  for  smoking 
cigars,  may  be  had  at  every  bazar.  Fowls, 
eggs,  sheep,  milk,  Arabian  bread  and  toler- 
able butter,  may  be  bought  in  the  villages 
on  either  side  of  the  Nile  ;  for  this  purpose, 
the  party  must  be  provided  with  a  bag  of 
500  piasters  in  \  and  £  pieces,  as  the  Fel- 
lahs do  not  like  changing  silver  or  gold 
coin. 

"  The  tour  to  Thebes  usually  takes  twen- 
ty days  if  no  stoppages  be  made ;  if  the 
wind  be  very  favorable,  in  fifteen,  but  by 
adverse  winds  it  can  not  be  accomplished 
in  less  than  thirty.  From  Thebes  to  As- 
souan, on  an  average,  five  days.  The  re- 
turn tour  from  Assouan  to  Cairo  requires; 
about  a  fortnight,  but  before  the  end  of 
December  it  sometimes  happens  that  ves- 
sels are  delayed  a  week,  making  three 
weeks.  To  view  the  principal  objects  in 
the  order  we  are  about  to  describe,  twelve 
days  will  be  necessary,  so  that  the  traveler 
who  has  been  favored  by  the  wind,  and 
makes  the  best  use  of  his  time,  may  com- 
plete the  tour  in  seven  weeks. 

"  Up  the  stream,  as  a  rule,  the  desire  to 
see  the  monuments  on  the  bank  must  be 
regulated  by  the.  wind,  but  rather  leave 
them  till  arriving  at  Assouan,  as  leaving 
the  bark  sometimes  prevents  the  sailors 
from  availing  themselves  of  the  good  hu- 
mor of  Boreas.  If  the  god  permit  this,  or 
if  the  tourist  is  not  limited  to  time,  he  may 


fxmucnoHB. 


[EGYPT.] 


see  the  objects  of  minor  importance,  viz., 
the  grottoes  of  Beni-Hassan,  the  temple  of 
l)eliderah,  and  the  ruins  of  Abydos  rather 
than  Tin-lies,  as  lie  who  has  been  in  Karnak 
and  in  tlie  toinlis  of  the  kings  will  take  lit- 
tle interest  in  the  smaller  and  less  noble. 

••  Farther  dircetions: 

'•  1.  Before  the  door,  and  over  tin-  roof 
of  the  cabin,  an  awningmust  be  constructed 
to  keep  off  the  sun. 

"2.  Imperative  orders  must  be  given 
that  the  flooring  and  roof  of  the  cabin  be 
swept  and  washed  every  day.  One  of  the 
sailors  must  be  deputed  to  do  this,  for  which 
he  receives  a  few  piasters  a  week. 

"  3.  The  sailors  must  be  forbidden 
(through  the  reis)  to  keep  the  sail  fast ; 
they  must  always  keep  the  rope  (sbogul) 
in  hand,  in  order  that  they  may  let  it  go 
immediately  when  the  wind  blows  the  bark 
too  near  the  rocks :  for  instance,  at  Gebel 
Shech  Umbarak,  Gebel  el  Dayr,  Gebel 
Shech  Timai,  Gebel  Abu  Fedi,  Gebel  Shech 
Haridi,  and  at  Gebel  Tookli  near  Girgeb. 
Most  of  the  accidents  on  the  Nile  are  caused 
by  the  neglect  of  this  rule. 

"4.  The  behavior  of  the  traveler  toward 
the  sailors  must  b.'  such  that  they  may  see 
at  once  they  are  /m  servants.  These  must 
be  given  to  understand,  through  the  drago- 
man. Ijefore  setting  out,  that  nothing  unrea- 
sonable will  be  expected  from  them,  but 
that  the  orders  of  the  traveler  must  under 
all  circumstances  be  obeyed  without  oppo- 
sition, least  of  all  must  they  show  open  re- 
fractoriness, and  that  for  everv  act  of  dis- 
obedience or  deceit  they  will  be  punished 
by  the  authorities ;  but,  if  they  conduct 
themselves  properly,  they  will  be  rewarded 
at  the  end  of  the  voyage.  This  threat  may 
easily  be  put  into  practice  by  him  who  has 
a  firman,  or  a  letter  of  introduction  to  the 
consular  agents.  The  traveler  must  act 
with  firmness,  particularly  the  tirst  few- 
days.  B}'  this  means  he  will  gain  respect 
and  obedience  to  his  wishes.  After  a  time 
he  may  show  indulgence  and  kindness, 
which  they  will  consider  as  a  reward.  If 
this  rule  be  not  acted  upon  at  tirst,  the 
Arabs  will  attribute  his  kindness  to  igno- 
rance or  fear,  will  cheat  in  every  way,  and 
even  intimidate  him.  and  will  not  submit 
to  the  strict  treatment  which  then,  too  late, 
is  resorted  to.  In  a  word,  the  Arab  sailors, 
when  well  treated,  are  good-hearted  and 
willing,  more  so  than  any  others  ;  but  if  not, 


they  am  more  insubordinate  than  most  oth- 
ers, and  the  traveler  may  spoil  the  whole 
tour  by  not  beyinniny  property.  In  other 
revpi  ct>  they  are  industrious,  contented, 
always  merry  and  good  creatures.  If thev 
even  try  to  cheat  those  whom  they  think 
unacquainted  with  the  subject,  a  thief  is 
seldom  found  among  them.  The  tourist 
may  leave  his  dahr,beeh  a  whole  da}',  and 
they  will  scarcely  steal  even  a  handful  of 

tobacco.'' 

There  is  great  diversity  of  opinion  in  re- 
gard to  steamers  and  dahabeehs  on  the 
Nile.  The  author  has  made  the  ascent 
both  ways,  under  the  most  favorable  au- 
spices, and  must  say  it  is  hard  to  decide,  and 
that  it  depends  entirely  on  circumstances. 
|  Those  who  seek  lovely  views  and  varying 
scenery  will  be  disappointed  :  the  scenery 
is  grand,  but  not  beautiful.  In  the  narrow 
valley  of  the  Nile  they  will  find  the  monot- 
onous fields  of  corn,  sugar-cane,  and  vege- 
tables, bound  on  either  side  by  barren 
chains  of  mountains,  in  which  the  monu- 
ments of  antiquity  are  found.  The  same- 
ness of  the  fields  is  occasionally  broken  by 
groves  of  sycamores,  palms,  and  acacias, 
around  which  may  be  seen  herds  of  buffa- 
loes, camels,  sheep,  and  goats.  To  persons 
of  nervous  temperament,  not  fond  of  books, 
and  not  invalids,  who  are  engaged  in  busi- 
ness or  professions,  who  come  to  see  the 
monuments  of  Egypt,  and  not  to  pass  their 
j  time,  we  say  emphatically,  take  the  steam- 
er. Still,  life  on  the  Nile  boat  has  a  pecul- 
iar charm :  the  balmy  air,  the  clearness 
and  purity  of  the  sky,  the  absence  from  all 
excitement,  freedom  from  all  restraint,  and 
monarch  of  all  you  survey,  and  if  you  com- 
bine with  these  charming  companions,  en- 
joyable books,  a  fine  cook,  and  a  choice  va- 
riety of  wines,  one  must  be  without  a  soul 
who  could  not  pass  three  happy  months, 
even  had  Egypt  no  unequaled  monuments 
of  antiquity. 

After  passing  the  pyramids  at  Memphis, 
where  we  stop  (if  making  the  ascent  by 
steamer)  the  first  night,  there  is  nothing  of 
importance  to  see  until  we  arrive  at  Beni- 
sooef,  if  we  except  Harnm  r-l  K«M>.  or  the 
"false  pyramid."  so  called  from  the  fact 
that  the-  Arabs  supposed  erroneously  that 
the  base  was  a  solid  rock  on  which  was 
erected  the  superstructure,  instead  of  which 
the  whole  was  a  building. 

Bfnisootfis  the  chief  town  ot  a  bevlik  or 
935 


MlNYEH. 


[EGYPT.] 


TOMBS  OF  BENI-HASSAN. 


province,  situated  sixty-two  miles  above 
Cairo.  It  lies  on  the  western  bank  of  the 
Nile,  and  presents  the  usual  picturesque 
grouping  of  mosques,  domes,  and  minarets. 
It  is  the  residence  of  the  governor  of  the 
province,  also  of  an  American  vice-consul 
(Narsala  Loga),  an  Egyptian ;  travelers 
should  call  on  him  and  taste  his  coffee. 
This  province  is  one  of  the  most  productive 
in  Egypt.  About  ten  hours'  distance,  west 
from  the  Nile  through  the  Faioum  valley, 
formerly  was  situated  the  Moeris  Lake,  now 
dried  up.  Here  stood  the  famous  Laby- 
rinth, King  Amenemhe's  palace,  and  an  im- 
mense pyramid  of  unburnt  brick.  In  the 
centre  of  the  lake  formerly  stood  two  other 
pyramids,  on  the  summit  of  which  sat  two 
gigantic  statues  of  kings. 

Eighty-two  miles  above  Benisooef,  where 
the  steamer  generally  stops  the  third  night, 
is  the  market  town  of  Minyeh,  one  of  the 
prettiest  towns  on  the  Nile.  It  is  the  resi- 
dence of  a  nazar,  or  under-governor,  who  is 
subject  to  the  orders  of  the  governor  of 
Benisooef.  The  town  contains  many  hand- 
some buildings  surrounded  by  date-groves, 
and  numerous  baths  and  mosques ;  one  of 
the  latter  contains  several  columns  of  Ko- 
rean origin.  The  viceroy  has  recently 
(1867)  erected  a  very  pretty  palace,  sur- 
rounded with  grape-vines  and  ornamental 
trees.  The  site  is  very  beautiful,  and  can 
be  seen  on  a  point  of  land  many  miles  be- 
low the  town  ;  it  has  two  facades.  He  has 
also  erected  five  new  sugar  factories  of 
mammoth  extent.  They  were  built  by 
French  engineers,  in  the  most  substantial 
manner,  and  are  the  most  perfect  in  the 
world.  They  cover  some  six  acres  of 
ground,  and  give  employment  to  1500  men. 
Many  of  the  chimneys  are  over  two  hun- 
dred feet  in  height.  A  large  quantity  of 
brown  and  refined  sugar  is  kept  constantly 
on  hand,  with  some  thirty-six  casks  con- 
taining 36,000  gallons  of  arrak,  a  rum  made  I 
from  the  sugar-cane,  slightly  flavored  with 
anisette.  The  distilling  apparatus  was 
erected  by  Paris  workmen.  The  export 
of  sugar  from  Egypt  is  immense  :  in  1864 
the  export  of  cotton  was  over  seventy-four 
millions  of  dollars,  but  since  the  termination 
of  our  war  sugar  has  entirely  superseded  it. 
^'olajses  is  also  very  extensively  import- 
ed ;  it  is  put  up  in  jars  holding  ten  gallons, 
which  are  manufactured  in  Kenneh ;  the 
market  is  held  on  Sunday.  A  few  miles 
936 


up  the  river,  on  the  opposite  side,  is  the 
cemetery  of  Minieh.  It  was  a  custom  of 
the  ancient  Egyptians  always  to  bury  their 
dead  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 

Fourteen  miles  above  Minieh  arc  the 
tombs  of  Beni-Hassan,  the  first  specimen  of 
old  Egyptian  art  to  be  met  with  above 
Minieh.  They  are  some  half-hour's  ride 
from  the  river,  over  a  hot  and  sandy  road, 
and  a  little  tiresome.  But  you  must  not 
measure  the  sights  of  Egypt  hy  Ueni-Has- 
san — they  are  the  poorest  of  them  all. 

The  tombs  of  Beni-Hassan  are  seen  from 
the  distance,  and  appear  as  holes  cut  in  a 
white  wall  of  limestone  rock ;  they  are 
considered  the  oldest  monuments  of  Egypt, 
before  or  during  the  time  of  Joseph,  being 
of  an  earlier  date  than  those  of  Thelies. 
They  are  all  ornamented  with  colored  fig- 
ures representing  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  the  old  Egyptian  race,  and  curi- 
ous as  showing  how  gay  and  agile  these 
ancient  people  could  be,  who  in  their  arch- 
itecture and  sculptures  appear  so  solemn 
and  immovable.  The  colors  are  preserved 
with  wondrous  freshness,  and  the  drawing 
full  of  life  and  vigor. 

On  some  of  the  walls  are  hunting  scenes; 
women  playing  musical  instruments ;  in- 
flicting the  bastinado  on  both  sexes  ;  man- 
ufacturing linen ;  nearly  all  trades  are 
represented:  brick-makers,  glass-blowers, 
potters,  goldsmiths,  a  barber  shaving  a 
customer,  and  another  cutting  toe-nails ; 
women  performing  various  feats  of  agility, 
throwing  up  three  balls  and  catching  them 
at  once,  etc.  One  tomb  contains  colored 
pictures  of  the  different  animals,  fish,  and 
birds ;  conspicuous  among  the  latter  is  the 
white  ibis,  symbol  of  the  god  Osiris,  vul- 
tures, cormorants,  pelicans,  and  hoopoes. 
One  of  these  tombs  has  long  been  famous 
for  containing  the  representation  of  the 
presentation  of  Joseph's  brethren  to  Pha- 
raoh, but  the  best  authorities  now  ignore 
the  whole  thing,  for  several  reasons :  first, 
the  number  is  not  correct ;  second,  the  name 
of  the  person  present  is  neither  Pharaoh 
nor  Joseph  ;  and,  third,  there  is  no  present- 
ation at  all;  in  addition,  the  word  "cap- 
tives" is  written  over  the  strangers.  Un 
der  the  floor  of  these  chambers  are  pits 
where  the  dead  were  buried. 

The  traveler  will  notice  here  that  nearly 
every  figure  or  picture  painted,  the  artist 
has  written  over  it  what  he  intended  to 


RHODA. 


[EGYPT.] 


TEL  EL  AXARNA. 


represent ;  what  a  serviceable  custom  it 
would  l»e  u>r  many  of  our  portrait-painters 
to  adopt ! 

From  some  of  the  columns  of  the  north- 
ern grottoes  the  Doric  style  of  architecture 
originated  ;  they  are  fifteen  and  a  half  feet 
high,  by  five  feet  in  diameter.  The  Speos 
Artime'los,  or  Grotto  of  Diana,  should  also 
l)i>  visit  -d.  It  is  situated  in  a  little  valley 
opposite  the  town,  about  twenty  minutes 
from  the  other  grottoes.  There  are  some 
remarkable  specimens  of  sculpture  on  the 
inner  wall  of  the  portico  ;  they  represent 
Thotmes  sacrificing  to  the  goddess  Pacht, 
the  goddess  of  night  and  destiny. 

A  short  distance  above  Beni-Hassan  we 
arrive  at  Rhoda,  the  seat  of  one  of  the  vice- 
roy's palaces,  and  also  one  of  his  great  sugar 
factories.  The  palace  is  very  beautiful,  and 
cost  nearly  half  a  million  of  dollars.  The 
sugar  factory  employs  1400  men.  Some 
eight  million  pounds  of  brown  sugar  are 
made  here  every  season,  in  addition  to  a 
large  quantity  of  rum  and  molasses.  The 
viceroy  monopolizes  the  manufacture  of 
sugar  throughout  his  kingdom. 

Opposite  Klioda,  ten  miles  above  Beni- 
Hassan,  is  the  modern  town  of  Shfkh  Abnd- 
dth,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  once  fa- 
mous city  of  Antinoe,  built  by  Adrian  in 
commemoration  of  his  favorite,  Antinous. 
who  was  here  drowned  in  the  Nile.  There 
are  some  remains  of~a  Roman  theatre  and 
hippodrome  still  visible,  also  the  remains 
of  some  constructions  which  mark  the  di- 
rection of  the  principal  street. 

Behind  the  village  of  E' Dayr,  a  short 
distance  from  Antinoe,  is  a  verv  remark- 
able painting  in  a  grotto,  representing  a 
colossus  on  a  sledge— indicating  clearly  the 
method  adopted  by  the  Egyptians  in  mov- 
ing heavy  weights.  There  are  nearly  two 
hundred  figures  pulling  a  rope  attached  to 
a  sledge,  on  which  there  is  a  colossus  •_'-! 
feet  high,  and  on  the  pedestal  of  the  statue 
stands  a  figure  pouring  out  oil  to  facilitate 
the  movement;  standing  on  the  knee  of 
the  figure  is  a  man  keeping  time  to  the 
song,  that  they  may  all  pull  together;  and 
standing  round  are  numerous  other  figures 
connected  with  the  operation. 

Along  the  eastern  shore  the  hills  for  some 
distance  are  perforated  witli  square  holes, 
deserted  dwellings  of  the  dead.  It  is  said 
that  Sheik  Ha—an  lived  in  one  of  these 
caves  for  twelve  years  with  his  wife,  two 


daughters,  and  little  son.  A  small  island 
was  here  in  the  river,  on  which  he  culti- 
vated lentiles.  His  daughters  married  in 
the  village  opposite.  One  day  his  child 
succeeded  in  getting  on  the  island  to  play, 
when  a  crocodile  carried  him  off.  The 
sheik  immediately  disappeared,  and  with 
him  the  island!  Nothing  but  the  cave 
remains. 

Fifteen  miles  farther  up  we  arrive  at 
Tel  elAmarnu,  where  there  are  a  few  i,rr< it- 
toes  hardly  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  doom- 
palm,  a  very  beautiful  but  common  tree  iu 
Upper  Egypt,  here  makes  its  first  appear- 
ance. This  place  marks  the  northern  limit 
of  the  crocodile  ;  they  are  hardly  ever  seen 
below.  A  short  distance  above,  and  we 
arrive  at  the  village  of  Maabdeh,  behind 
which  lie  the  celebrated  crocodile-pits,  rare- 
ly visited  by  travelers.  Here  thousands 
of  crocodiles,  finely  preserved,  are  piled 
from  floor  to  ceiling,  with  an  occasional 
sprinkling  of  a  ''human,"  supposed  to  be 
the  feeders  of  these  ancient  gods.  Here, 
amid  the  sacred  dust,  the  devout  admirer 
of  old  Egyptian  theology  ma}-,  if  he  choose 
to  explore  them,  obtain  the  experience  of 
the  pleasures  of  suffocation.  In  making 
this  excursion  the  tourist  should  provide 
himself  with  a  lantern.  Some  years  ago  a 
traveler  and  two  Arabs  lost  their  lives  in 
the  most  shocking  manner:  the  torch  which 
they  were  carrying  set  fire  to  the  linen 
which  surrounded  the  mummies,  and  their 
retreat  was  cut  off.  Thomas  Leigh.  K>q., 
M.I'.,  an  English  traveler,  in  1^10  k-ft  two 
of  his  guides  dead  and  one  dying,  killed  by 
the  vileness  of  the  atmosphere,  retracing 
his  >teps  before  he  reached  the  chambers 
of  the  mummies.  ( lurdaring  countryman, 
AV.  (.'.  Prime,  Esq.,  succeeded  in  thoroughly 
exploring  these  pits  and  bringing  a  large 
number  of  mummies  to  the  United  States. 

Twenty-nine  miles  alx>ve  Tel  el  Amarn? 
we  come  to  the  town  of  ManfaliQt,  which 
contains  some  ten  thousand  inhabitants. 
Part  of  the  town  has  been  washed  away 
by  the  encroachments  of  the  Nile,  but  this 
season  (1868)  stones  are  being  sunk  along 
the  shore  which  will  protect  it  in  future. 
It  is  the  residence  of  a  governor,  capital  of 
a  province,  contains  numerous  mosques, 
a  bazar,  and  public  bath.  Then;  is  a. 
weekly  market  held  on  Sundays. 

Twenty-five  miles  farther,  and  we  arriv> 
at  Atsioot,  by  some  called  Sioot,  the  metrop 
997 


GAD  EL  KEBIR. 


[EGYPT.] 


ABYDOS. 


olis  of  Upper  Egypt,  and  the  residence  of 
a  pacha.  It  stands  on  the  site  of  the  an- 
cient Lycopolis,  or  "City  of  Wolves," 
nearly  two  miles  from  the  banks  of  the 
river.  The  town  is  surrounded  with  beau- 
tiful acacias  and  palm-trees,  and  contains 
fifteen  minarets  and  several  mosques.  This 
is  the  halting-place  of  the  caravans  from 
the  long  desert-journey  from  Darfur  and 
the  interior  of  Africa.  The  palace  of  the 
governor  is  quite  an  imposing  building. 
The  population  is  25,000.  In  the  gray 
mountains  west  of  the  town  may  be  seen 
the  primitive  tombs  of  the  Egyptians. 

Twenty-six  miles  above  Assioot  is  the 
large  village  of  Gau  el  Kebir.  This  town, 
or  one  of  the  same  name,  formerly  stood 
nearer  the  river,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Antceopolis.  In  1823  the  whole  village  was 
carried  away  by  the  waters  of  the  Nile. 
Sixty-two  miles  higher  we  arrive  at  Gir- 
geh, in  former  times  the  capital  of  Upper 
Egypt.  It  takes  its  name  Girgeh  (George) 
from  a  Latin  convent  dedicated  to  St. 
George,  which  is  one  of  the  four  most  an- 
cient Roman  Catholic  establishments  in 
the  country. 

From  Girgeh  the  excursion  to  the  ruins 
of  Abydos  is  generally  made:  if  ascending 
the  river  (passengers  on  board  the  steam- 
ers do  not  generally  make  this  excursion), 
mules  or  donkeys  may  be  hired  at  Girgeh, 
and  your  boat  sent  up  the  river  to  Suma- 
ta  or  Bellianeh,  3  hours  farther  up ;  or  if 
coming  down  the  river,  take  donkeys  at 
Bellianeh,  and  send  your  boat  to  Girgeh. 
The  excursion  will  well  repay  you.  The 
ruins  are  situated  four  hours  south  of  Gir- 
geh, at  the  base  of  the  Libyan  Mountains. 
On  our  way  we  pass  the  village  of  Hardies, 
made  celebrated  by  a  Mameluke  chief  who 
named  himself  after  it. 

Abydos,  which  at  one  time  ranked  next 
to  Thebes,  owed  its  importance  to  the  fact 
that  the  god  Osiris  was  buried  here,  and 
rich  Egyptians  from  all  parts  wished  to 
have  their  bodies  lie  in  the  sacred  dust 
which  their  god  had  hallowed.  The  tombs 
are  very  old.  and  date  back  to  the  IGth  and 
17th  dynasties. 

The  principal  ruins,  which  cover  a  great 
extent,  are  the  .Wemnonium,  or  palace  of 
Meninun.  tnc  Temple  of  Osiris,  and  the  Ne- 
cropolis. The  palace  of  Memnon  is  partic- 
ularly interesting,  on  account  of  the  pe- 
culiar construction  of  the  roof,  which  is  the 
938 


only  one  of  its  kind  in  Egypt.     It  is  con- 
structed of  large  stones,  extending  from 

|  one  architrave  to  another — not  laid  on  their 
faces,  but  on  their  sides,  then  cut  out  in 
the  form  of  an  arch,  the  whole  ornamented 
with  sculptures  and  hieroglyphics. 

The  Temple  of  Osiris  lies  north  of  the 
Mcmnoniuni :  this  was  one  of  the  temples 
the  most  revered  in  Egypt.  It  was  here 

j  that,  in  1808,  the  famous  inscription,  now 

j  in  the  British  Museum,  known  under  the 
name  of  the  Table  of  Abydos.  was  found. 
It  contained  originally  the  names  of  all 
the  ancestors  of  Kameses  the  Great,  which 

,  agrees  with  the  names  of  the  oldest  of  the 
Pharaohs  which  were  found  at  the  Mein- 

:  nonium  at  Thebes.  Part  of  the  tablet  was 
unfortunately  destroyed,  and  some  of  the 
names  lost. 

North  of  the  Temple  of  Osiris  lies  the 
Necropolis,  or  burial-ground,  where  may  be 
seen  numerous  tomb-stones  of  the  time  of 
Osirtasen ;  also  a  colossal  statue  of  that 
Pharaoh,  now  in  the  museum  of  Cairo. 
From  Girgeh  to  Kenneh  ths  distance  is 
sixty-four  miles.  The  Nile  for  this  dis- 
tance takes  an  easterly  direction,  which  it 

:  maintains  to  Kenneh,  where  it  resumes  its 

;  southerly  course. 

Kenneh  is  a  place  of  considerable  im- 

I  portance,  noted  for  its  manufacture  of  the 
porous  jugs  used  so  much  in  Egypt  for 
clarifying  the  Nile  water.  They  are  made 
by  hand,  and  with  wonderful  rapidity  :  the 
process  may  be  seen.  Kenneh  does  quite 
a  business  in  trading  with  Persia  and  Ara- 
bia. On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
(which  you  cross  by  a  ferry  if  going  up  in  a 
steamer,  sending  your  donkeys  also  across 
the  ferry;  none  can  be  had  on  the  other 
side)  stands  the  celebrated  Temple  of  Den- 
dirah.  one  of  the  best  preserved  in  Egypt. 
'I  he  portico  was  erected  in  the  time  of  the 
Emperor  Tiberius,  and  on  it  may  be  seen 
the  name  of  that  monarch,  as  well  as  those 
of  Claudius,  Nero.  Caligula,  Ptolemy,  and 
Ca-sar.  on  the  back  wall.  Descending 
some  twenty  steps,  you  enter  a  most  beau- 
tiful hall,  the  roof  of  which  is  supported 
by  twenty-four  pillars,  sixty  feet  high  by 
eight  in  diameter,  ornamented  with  beau- 
tifully-painted sculpture.  After  this  suc- 
ceeds a  hall  of  six  columns,  with  three 
rooms  on  either  side,  then  a  central  cham- 
ber, behind  which  is  the  sanctuary.  The 
whole  length  of  this  specimen  of  Egyptian 


8113      I      i        -I      *  ii  8  B      *  t 

Ulllill,  "I'iilll  1      } 

•3  I  I  !  .H  I  I  .!    ?s  >  1 1 1  H  *  !  b  1 1 1 1 


i\l  l\  i 


s    ^    i.    -c    v    -    -en 


—    g    a 


THEBES. 


[EGYPT.] 


KARNAK  AND  LUXOR. 


art  is  250  feet,  breadth  110.  The  temple 
was  commenced  under  the  last  1'tolemics, 
and  terminated  under  Nero  ;  the  Emperors 
Caligula  and  Claudius  contributed  much 
In  its  embellishment.  ( >n  the  hinder  walls 
of  the  temple  may  lie  seen  the  names  of 
Cleopatra  and  her  son,  the  young  C;i--ar. 
which  she  gave  to  Ciesar,  and  on  the  out- 
bide  wall,  behind  the  temple,  is  the  portrait 
of  the  famous  Egyptian  queen.  It  is  very 
evident,  from  the  manner  in  which  the 
hieroglyphics  and  ornaments  are  executed, 
that  the  sculptural  art  was  in  the  decline 
during  the  erection  of  this  temple  ;  but  the 
architecture  fails  neither  in  grandeur,  maj- 
esty, nor  general  effect,  and  conveys  a 
strong  impression  on  the  traveler. 

The  temple  is  dedicated  to  the  goddess 
Hathor,  reigning  deity  of  the  lower  re- 
gions, and  is  represented  with  cows'  ears, 
in  honor  of  the  animal  sacred  to  her.  ( )n 
her  head  she  wears  as  an  ornament  the 
porch  of  the  temple,  the  entrance  to  the 
lower  world. 

From  Kenneh  to  Thebes  the  distance  is  48 
miles.  A  short  distance  above  Kenneh  is 
Kofi,  the  representative  of  the  ancient 
Coptos.  The  latter  was  formerly  the  start- 
ing-point for  an  extensive  caravan  trallic, 
which  proceeded  thence  across  the  desert 
to  the  port  of  Berenice  on  the  Red  Sea ; 
and  from  its  name  that  of  its  modern  de- 
scendants of  the  Egyptian  race  (the  Copts) 
is  derived :  between  Kenneh  and  Thebes 
the  scenery  is  exceedingly  tine.  The  The- 
ban  palm  here  begins  to  mingle  with  that 
of  the  date.  Vegetation  is  exceedingly 
rich ;  luxuriant  crops  of  Indian  corn  and 
sugar-cane  are  seen  in  the  fertile  plain  that 
stretches  beside  the  river's  bank. 

Thebes. — The  most  celebrated  and  mag- 
nificent of  the  ancient  capitals  of  Egypt ; 
the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  the  Pharaohs 
when  in  the  zenith  of  their  power,  and 
whose  remains  exceed  in  extent  and  grand- 
eur all  the  most  lively  imagination  can  de- 
pict. No  written  account  can  ever  give 
an  adequate  impression  of  the  effect,  past 
and  present,  of  its  temples,  palaces,  obe- 
lisks, colossal  statues,  sphinxes,  and  sculp- 
tures of  various  kinds.  They  continue 
from  age  to  age  to  excite  the  awe  and  ad- 
miration of  the  spectator.  To  have  seen 
tin;  monuments  of  Thebes  is  to  have  seen 
the  Egyptians  as  they  lived  and  moved 
before  the  eyes  of  Hoses.  To  have  Been 


the  tombs  of  Thebes  is  to  have  seen  the 
whole  religion  of  the  Egyptians  at  the  most 
solemn  moments  of  their  lives.  Nothing 
that  can  be  said  about  them  will  prepare 
the  traveler  for  their  extraordinary  grand- 
eur. 

"  Not  all  proud  Thebe.V  unrivaled  wnlls  contain, 
Tin!  wiirld's  grout  empress  on   the   Kgyptian 

plain, 
That   spreads  her  conquest  o'er  a  thousand 

states, 

And  pours  her  heroes  through  n  hundred  gate?, 
Two  hundred  horsemen  and  two  hundred  cars 
From  each  wide  portal  issuing  to  the  wars." 

It  is  possible  to  see  the  whole  of  these  stu- 
pendous ruins  in  three  days,  but  the  trav- 
eler had  better  make  it  six.  The  first  day 
had  better  be  devoted  to  the  west  side  of 
the  river,  say,  first,  the  Ttmple.  ofKoornah, 
the  Memnonium,  the  two  Colossi,  and  the 
ruins  of  Medinet  Jlaboo.  The  second  day, 
the  Vaults  of  A  ssasif,  Dayr,  El  Bahri,  and 
Mi  >/;  nit  ft;  then  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings, 
and  the  third  day  to  Luxor  and  Karnak. 

The  most  striking  of  the  ruins  are  those 
of  Karnak  and  Luxor,  on  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  river,  with  the  Memnoninm,  M>  i/imf 
J/<i}><>».  Koomah,  Tombs  of  the  Priests,  Tombs 
of  the,  Kings,  and  the  Vocal  Memtton,  on  the 
western  side.  The  sanctuary  of  Ammon, 
a  small  granite  edifice  founded  by  Osirta» 
sen,  with  the  vestiges  of  the  earliest  tern- 
pies  around,  is  the  centre  of  the  vast  col- 
lection of  palaces  and  temples  which  is 
called  Karnak.  Beside  these  temples  a 
few  miserable  Arabs  dwell,  whose  chief 
subsistence  is  derived  from  the  visits  of 
travelers,  to  whom  they  sell  scraps  of  pa- 
pyrus, mummy  cases,  coins,  and  similar 
objects  of  antiquarian  interest,  many  of 
them  suspiciously  modern  in  appearance. 

The  principal  hall  in  the  palace  of  Kar- 
nak, which  there  can  be  no  doubt  is  the 
Temple  of  Ammon,  the  Jupiter  of  the  Egyp- 
tians, is  318  feet  long  by  160  broad,  and 
its  roof  is  supported  by  134  columns  of 
70  feet  in  height  and  11  in  diameter.  The 
approach  to  this  stupendous  structure  is 
through  an  avenue  of  colossal  sphinxes 
which  is  upward  of  a  mile  in  length,  and 
connects  the  remains  of  Karnak  with  tho.-e 
of  Luxor. 

The  palace  of  I.uxor,  though  inferior  to 
those  of  Karnak,  is  also  of  vast  dimensions. 
Its  principal  entrance,  is  most  magnificent. 
On  either  side  of  the  doorway  stood  two 
obelisks  or  monoliths,  each  formed  out  of 
088 


GEBEL  SILSILEH. 


[EGYPT.] 


ASSOUAN. 


rooms  on  each  side,  from  one  of  which  a 
flight  of  steps  leads  to  the  roof.  The  ceiling 
of  the  Adytum  was  composed  of  six  im- 
mense slabs  of  stone,  four  of  which  remain  ; 
these  are  all  split  through  in  a  direct  line. 
The  next  court  is  only  21  feet  deep,  also 
covered  with  slabs  of  slate  split  through 
like  the  preceding :  this  court  has  no  col- 
umns ;  there  are  two  small  rooms  on  either 
side,  perfectly  plain.  Next  court,  22  feet 
deep,  without  pillars,  and  open  at  the  top; 
on  one  side  is  a  small  room,  the  walls  of 
which  are  covered  with  hieroglyphics  and 
figures,  some  of  the  latter  reaping.  On  the 
opposite  side  another  small  court,  through 
which  you  ascend  six  steps  to  an  exquisite 
little  temple  or  sanctuary.  It  is  only  14 
by  15  feet,  but  the  bas-reliefs  are  most  per- 
fect ;  the  ceiling  and  sides  are  perfectly 
covered  with  them  ;  some  are  colored  with 
imperishable  blue.  In  a  direct  line  with 
the  pylon  entrance,  with  the  Pronaos  and 
Adytum,  conies  the  Naos,  or  sanctuary, 
from  which  there  is  no  outlet.  There  are 
no  pillars,  but  in  one  corner  stands  an  im- 
mense red  granite  sarcophagus,  in  the 
shape  of  a  pyramid ;  it  is  14  feet  3  inches 
high,  8  feet  broad,  and  8  deep.  The  Naos 
is  surrounded  with  nine  small  rooms.  On 
the  exterior  wall,  at  the  northeast  angle,  is 
an  inscription,  dated  in  the  reign  of  Ptole- 
my Alexander  I.,  which  alludes  to  a  dona- 
tion of  lands  made  to  the  temple.  The 
Naos  and  Pronaos  are  the  most  ancient 
parts  of  the  temple  ;  they  were  erected 
from  222-193  A.C.  Under  the  ninth  Ptole- 
my and  Euergetcs  II.  the  portico  was  erect- 
ed. The  sculptures  on  the  walls  of  the 
Naos  and  Pronaos  are  of  the  same  date, 
while  the  grand  exterior  walls,  with  their 
ornaments,  are  of  the  time  of  Philometer- 
Soter  and  Alexander  I.  The  temple  was 
dedicated  to  Harhat  and  his  mother,  Ha- 
thor,  whom  the  Greeks  identified  with  their 
Aphrodite  (Venus).  The  inscriptions  speak 
of  the  infant  god  as  the  "great  god,  lord  of 
the  heavens,  son  of  Osiris,  king  of  the  kings 
of  Lower  and  Upper  Egypt,  master  of  gods 
and  goddesses."  Most  of  the  sculpture  is 
of  a  religious  character,  but  there  are  some 
which  give  representations  of  the  military 
exploits  of  some  of  the  Ptolemies. 

A  short  distance  farther  up  the  stream  we 
arrive  at  Gebel  Silsileh,  where  the  river  is 
quite  narrow.  Here  are  the  quarries  from 
which  the  ancient  kings  of  E^vpt  procured 


I  the  stones  for  erecting  the  mammoth  edi- 
j  fices  of  Luxor,  Karnak,  Medinet  Haboo, 
etc.  The  name  of  this  place,  Sil.sileh, 
which  in  the  Arabic  means  chain,  has  given 
rise  to  a  legend,  or  the  legend  has  given  the 
name  to  the  place,  that  in  former  times  the 
navigation  of  the  Nile  was  barred  by  a  chain 
which  was  swung  across  the  river.  On 
the  west  bank  there  are  several  interesting 
grottoes  containing  tablets  or  hieroglyph- 
ics relating  to  the  early  days  of  the  Theban 
empire. 

Thirteen  miles  above  Silsileh,  finely 
situated  on  a  hill  on  the  cast  bank,  is  the 
temple  of  Kom-Ombo.  It  was  commenced 
by  Ptolemaeus  Philometer,  and  finished  by 
Neus  Dionysus.  Most  of  the  pylons  have 
fallen  into  the  river,  and  the  portion  of  the 
temple  which  now  remains  is  the  sanctuary, 
most  of  which  is  buried  in  the  sand.  The 
peculiarity  of  these  temples — because  from 
their  appearance  there  must  have  been 
two  adjoining  each  other — arc  a  double  en- 
trance and  a  double  sanctuary,  devoted  to 
two  deities,  Savak  and  Aroeris.  The  cap- 
itals of  the  columns  are  finely  executed,  as 
are  also  the  sculptures  of  the  pronaos  and 
fa9ade.  Near  this  spot  ends  the  limestone 
range  of  hills,  and  the  sandstone  continues 
to  the  first  cataract,  where  it  changes  to 
the  granite,  from  which  the  Nile  issues 
from  out  the  mountains  of  Nubia.  The 
country  now  assumes  a  different  aspect  as 
we  approach  Assouan — the  palm-groves  are 
fewer,  and  the  valley  a  mere  strip  of  land. 

Twenty-six  miles  above  Kom-Ombo  we 
arrive  at  Assouan,  once  the  boundary  of  the 
Roman  empire;  it  is  now  the  border  city 
between  Upper  Egypt  and  Nubia,  but  con- 
tains nothing  of  importance  to  the  visitor. 
This  is  the  stopping-place  and  terminus  of 
the  steamer's  route.  Opposite  Assouan  lies 
the  island  of  Elephantine.  It  is  about  one 
mile  in  length,  but  contains  nothing  of 
much  interest :  a  granite  gateway  ;  temple 
of  Chnubi,  god  of  inundations  ;  a  mutilated 
statue  of  granite,  and  an  altar  to  Ammon  ; 
also,  the  ruins  of  the  old  Nilometer.  A 
short  distance  south  of  the  island  of  Ele- 
phantine is  the  small  island  of  Sehaii:  it 
contains  numerous  hieroglyphics. 

If  the  traveler  intend  going  to  the  second 
cataract,  he  should  make  an  excursion  to 
the  granite  quarries  from  Assouan,  which 
are  a  short  distance,  back  from  that  town ; 
if  not,  he  rihould  visit  them  while  riding  to 


PHIL^E. 


[EGYPT.] 


NUBIA. 


the  island  of  Phila>.  From  here  came  the 
colossal  statue  of  Remeses,  the  columns  at 
Rome,  at  Constantinople,  at  Paris,  and  at 
Alexandria.  At  Heliopolis  we  see  the 
first  of  its  race,  and  here,  immediately  east 
of  Assouan,  we  see  the  last  hewn  out,  but, 
like  the  mammoth  ftone  at  Baalbec,  never 
removed  from  its  birth-place.  It  is  100 
feet  long,  and  12  feet  square  at  the  base. 
After  it  had  been  dressed  a  fissure  was 
found  at  the  top,  for  which  reason,  it  is  sup- 
posed, it  never  was  removed.  Notice  the 
grooves  made  in  it  for  the  purpose  of  cut- 
ting it  into  single  blocks.  The  color  is  light 
red,  sprinkled  with  green.  It  is  very  hard, 
and  susceptible  of  the  highest  polish. 

Travelers  must  not  expect  to  find  a 
Niagara  when  they  visit  the  cataract,  but 
something  more  like  the  rapids  of  the  St. 
Lawrence — a  bounding,  bubbling,  foaming 
stream,  some  three  or  four  feet  in  depth, 
comprising  four  distinct  parts :  the  first 
has  a  fall  of  about  six  feet ;  the  second,  two 
feet ;  the  third,  eight  feet ;  and  the  fourth, 
fifteen.  The  natives  amuse  visitors  here 
by  plunging  into  the  river  above  the  first 
fall  and  passing  unscathed  through  them 
all.  They  are  very  importunate  for  b.-iek- 
sheesh,  and  swarm  around  you  in  all  their 
naked  majesty.  If  traveling  by  steamer, 
we  would  advise  taking  a  boat  to  the  cat- 
aract, which  is  a  short  distance  above  As- 
souan. Make  a  bargain  before  you  go  for 
your  boat  and  crew. 

Seven  miles  above  Assouan  is  situated 
the  small  island  of  Philie,  only  one  quarter 
of  a  mile  lonji,  crowned  with  a  long  line  of 
majestic  temples  and  colonnades.  Its  prin- 
cipal ruin  is  that  of  the  Temple  of  Isis, 
commenced  by  Ptolemy  Philadelphus,  and 
completed  by  succeeding  monarchs.  The 
whole  is  modern  compared  with  the  old 
Egyptian  style  of  architecture.  The  tem- 
ple is  very  irregular  in  its  ground  plan, 
following  the  shape  of  the  island.  There 
is  a  double  corridor  supported  by  thirty-six 
pillars ;  notice  that  many  of  these  were 
never  finished.  The  corridor  is  succeeded 
by  two  immense  pyramidal  towers,  gate- 
ways, staircase,  and  chambers,  in  a  fine 
state  of  preservation.  The  traveler  should 
here  ascend  to  the  roof  and  take  a  bird's- 
eye  view  of  the  ruins  and  surronndiii:;-.  I  n 
one  of  the  rooms  of  the  temple  may  be 
seen,  on  a  small  scale,  a  representation  of 
the  dcatli  of  Osiris ;  also  his  embalmment, 


burial,  resurrection,  and  enthronement  as 
judge  of  the  dead.  To  the  east  of  the 
great  temple  is  a  square  open  building,  the 
four  sides  of  which  are  composed  of  pillars 
supporting  an  architrave.  This  is  the 
most  perfect  building  on  the  island.  The 
edifice  is  evidently  unfinished ;  much  of 
the  sculpturing  had  been  just  commenced. 
It  was  here  that  the  Romans  signed,  in  451 
A.D.,  the  articles  of  peace  with  the  Ethi- 
opian Bedouins,  who  were  the  last  worship- 
ers of  Isis  on  the  island.  Notice,  under 
the  principal  entrance  of  the  first  pylon, 
i  the  inscription  commemmorative  of  the  ad- 
vance  of  the  French  troops  under  De- 
saix:  "Z,'an  VI.  de,  la  Republique,  le  12 
|  Messidor,  tine  Armee  Jranyaisf,  commandee 
par  Bonaparte,  decendue  a  Alexandria. 
L'armee  ayant  mis  vingtjour  apres  lesMaim- 
louks  enfuiteauxPyramides.  Desaix,  com- 
mandant la  Ire  division  les  a  pourstdvis  av 
'  dela  des  Cataracts,  oil  il  est  arrive  le  12 
{  Vcntose  de  Fan  VII" 

From  Assouan  to  the  second  cataract  the 
!  distance  is  220  miles.     The  Nile  is  not  now 
the  Nile  of  Egypt — the  two  ranges  of  hills 
,  inclose  the  river  so  closely  that  there  is 
little  or  no  cultivation.     You  now  pass 
;  tombs  continually,  occupying  the  position 
!  of  castles  on  the  Rhine  ;  they  are  nearly  all 
J  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  if  we  except 
I  Derr,  the  capital  of  Nubia,  Ibreem,  and 
(  Farayg.    Throughout  the  Nile  valley  now, 
i  the  banks  being  so  high,  the  water  is  raised 
by  means  of  a  sakia  or  shadoof.     The  sakia 
is  a  large  wheel  worked  by  a  buffalo,  around 
which  a  number  of  jars  are  attached  ;  the 
revolutions  of  the  wheel  dip  the  jars  into 
the  river  and  empty  them  into  the  canal, 
whence  the  water  becomes  distributed  over 
the  surrounding  fields  ;  and  as  the  natives 
use  all  the  grease  in  the  country  to  grease 
their  long  black  hair,  you  have  day  and 
night  the  sound  of  the  hum  of  a  swarm  of 
flies  as  lazily  you  float  along  beneath  the 
;  rays  of  a  tropical  sun.     The  shadoof  con- 
sists of  a  pole  and  bucket  worked  across  a 
horizontal  bar  supported  upon  two  pillars 
of  wood  :  it  is  worked  by  the  hand.     The 
government  levies  a  tax  of  200  piastres  on 
everj-  sakia  in  operation. 

The  native-;  of  NubLi  are  more  ignorant 
and  more  honest  than  the  fellahs  of  Kgypf 
;  and  possess  a  more  brave  and  warlike  ?\,i; 
it;  they  are  also  more  intemperate  than 
their  more  simple  neighbors,  and  not  so 
943 


DABOD. 


[EGYPT.] 


ABOO-SIMBEI* 


strict  in  regard  to  the  injunctions  of  the        Having  passed  the  temples  of  Amada, 
Prophet.  !  Derr,  and  Ibreem,  we  arrive  at  the 


The  first  ruins  of  any  importance  after 
passing  Philse  are  those  of  Dabod,  on  the 
right  hand  or  west  side  of  the  river  as  you 
ascend.  These  consist  of  a  well-preserved 
temple  commenced  by  the  Ethiopian  King 
Ashat-Amun,  and  dedicated  to  the  same 
gods  as  the  temple  of  Philse,  and  the  pic- 
turesque ruin  of  the  temple  of  Gertasse. 
We  then  pass  the  temples  of  Tafah,  also  on 
the  right. 

We  next  arrive  at  Kalabshee,  where  are 
the  ruins  of  the  largest  temple  in  Nubia, 
with  the  single  exception  of  Aboo-Simbel. 
It  was  erected  during  the  reign  of  Augus- 
tus; Caligula,  Trajan,  and  Severus  also 
added  to  it,  but  it  was  never  completed. 
Seen  from  the  outside,  it  has  a  grand  and 
imposing  appearance ;  the  interior,  howev- 
er, is  badly  mutilated. 

A  quarter  of  an  hour's  distance  from  the 
village  is  the  cavern-temple  ofBet-tl-Wal1;/ 
(the  house  of  the  saints),  excavated  during 
the  reign  of  Remeses  the  Great,  and  dedi- 


cent  temples  of  Aboo-Simbel,  the  greatest 
work  of  the  great  Remeses,  and  by  far  the 
most  interesting  of  all  the  ruins  of  Nubia, 
and.  indeed,  with  the  exception  of  Thebes, 
of  all  those  throughout  the  Nile  valley — for 
this  reason,  that  almost  every  other  Egyp- 
tian temple  is  more  or  less  in  ruins  ;  these, 
from  being  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  are  in  all 
their  arrangements  as  perfect  now  as  when 
they  were  left  unfinished  by  Remeses  him- 
self. There  are  two  temples  :  the  smallest 
is  dedicated  to  Hathor,  who  is  represented 
under  the  form  of  a  sacred  cow;  the  facade 
is  ornamented  with  six  colossal  statues  of 
Remeses  and  his  wife,  with  their  children 
at  their  feet ;  the  interior  is  divided  into 
three  principal  divisions ;  the  walls  are 
decorated  with  sculpture,  but  much  de- 
faced; the  entire  depth  is  84  feet.  The 
second  and  larger  temple  is  a  short  dis- 
tance south  of  the  smaller ;  the  facade  is 
120  feet  wide  by  90  high ;  it  is  decorated 
witli  four  colossal  statues  of  Remeses, 


cated  to  Kneph,  Amunre,  and  Anauke.  which,  although  seated,  are  about  60  feet 
The  sculptures  of  the  interior,  which  are  high ;  the  interior  is  divided  into  four  com- 
very  fine,  record  the  battles  of  Remeses  partments,  with  a  depth  of  385  feet;  the 


against  the  Ethiopians.  Next  come  the 
cavern-temples  of  Dendoor  and  Gorf,  which 
are  hardly  worth  a  visit,  and  Wadi  Sebua, 
formerly  a  temple  of  considerable  impor- 


entrance  is  nearly  choked  up  with  sand. 
Nearly  opposite  Aboo-Simbel,  at  Farayg, 
there  is  a  small  temple  excavated  during 
the  reign  of  Amenophis  III.,  and  higher  up 


tance,  but  nearly  all  now  buried  in  thej  the  castle  of  Addeh,  in  a  fine  state  of  pres- 
sand.  The  temple,  which  is  entirely  of  j  crvation.  Nine  miles  farther  there  are 
granite,  with  the  exception  of  the  sanctu-  also  some  ruins,  at  the  village  of  Farras 
ary,  which  is  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  was  Forty  miles  above  Aboo-Simbel  is  U'mli 
Constructed  by  Remes es  II.  There  was  |  //<*{/?,  opposite  which  are  some  ruins,  but 
formerly  an  avenue  of  sphinxes  which  led  little  of  sufficient  importance  to  bring  trav- 
to  it,  hence  its  name.  This  is  the  last  vil- ,  elers  above  Aboo-Simbel.  The  second 
lage  where  the  Arabic  language  is  spoken;  cataract  is  still  some  seven  or  eight  miles 


the  Nubian  now  commences. 

Twelve  miles  higher  we  arrive  at  Koros- 
&o,  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Nile. 
This  is  the  first  station  of  the  great  Nubian 
desert,  200  miles  to  Kartum,  and,  although 
well  traveled,  is  one  of  the  worst  roads 
across  the  desert,  water  being  found  at  one 
station  only  during  the  entire  distance,  and 
much  frequented  by  awild  tribe  of  Bedouins 
which  have  never  yet  been  quite  subdued. 
944 


higher  up;  the}' are  nearly  live  miles  long, 
and,  if  wishing  to  see  them  and  the  sur- 
rounding country  to  the  best  advantage, 
we  would  advise  the  climbing  of  the  cliff 
Aloo-Xir,  300  feet  high,  where  a  most  sin- 
gular panorama  can  be  obtained.  The 
railroad  along  the  banks  of  the  Nile  (in 
progress  to  Thebes)  is  now  (1871)  finished 
tn  Minieh,  a  distance  of  151  miles. 


THE  DESERT. 


SUEZ.  [THE  DESERT.] 

WHETHER  the  traveler  intends  visiting 
Mount  -Sinai,  where  Moses  delivered  the 
Law  to  the  assembled  tribes  at  Israel,  or 
jii  it.  we  would  strongly  reci.inmend  his 
spending  a  day  or  two  at  Suez,  and  then 
passing  through  the  new  Suez  Canal  to 
Port  Said  (where  the  steamers  to  the 
Holy  Land  touch).  The  time  from  Cairo 
to  Suez  by  camel  was  formerly  30  hours ; 
then  a  direct  railroad  was  constructed, 
making  the  time  4  hours ;  that  road  was 
abandoned  in  1*70,  making  a  detour,  but 
passing  through  numerous  populous  vil- 
lages. From  Cairo  to  Suez  tia  Benha,  9 
hours  30  minutes;  l!(i  piastres  —  £5  80. 
From  Cairo  to  Suez  via  Zazazig.  lo  hours  ; 
116  piastres.  From  Cairo  to  Ismailia,  7 
hours;  79  piastres  — £2  75. 

Suez  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  gulf 
of  the  same  name  ;  the  Red  Sea  dividing 
at  its  northern  extremity  into  the  Gulf  of 
Akaba  and  Suez.  The  peninsular  region 
inclosed  between  these  two  gulfs  is  a  rug- 
ged mountainous  wilderness,  and  the  scene 
of  the  journey  of  the  hosts  of  Israel ;  and 
Suez,  from  the  nature  of  the  mountains  on 
the  Egyptian  side,  must  have  been  the  spot 
where  they  crossed. 


SUEZ 


The  town  of  Suez  now  contains  about 
6000  inhabitants  ;  it  has  been  brought  into 
prominent  notice  of  late  years  by  the  ex- 
tensive travel  on  the  overland  route.  The 
orrrlnnd  route  is  now  all  sea  ;  the  Suez 
Canal  lias  also  made  it  famous.  It  is 
likewise  the  place  of  embarkation  for  the 
Mohammedan  pilgrims  from  Egypt  and 
the  countries  of  Northern  Africa  on  their 
way  to  the  holy  cities.  The  sailing  is  ex- 
cellent here,  as  you  can  always  have  a 


good  breeze  blowing;  it  commences  usu- 
ally from  the  land  in  the  morning,  and 
dies  away  about  fuur  or  five  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon. 

There  are  nearly  always  four  or  five  large 
tir.-t-elass  English  steamers  lying  here,  but 
they  can  not  come  within  five  miles  of  the 
city,  there  being  no  channel,  and  the  rise 
and  fall  of  the  tide  so  much  that  any  trav- 
eler can  do  as  the  Israelites  did  at  certain 
hours  of  the  day  without  the  water  coming 
much  over  his  boots.  We  asked  our  boat- 
man if  he  knew  any  thing  about  the  host 
of  Pharaoh  and  the  Israelites :  "  Yes,  he 
knew  all  about  it:  it  was  all  a  mistake." 
It  was  not  the  Egyptians  who  followed  the 
Israelites,  but  a  "lot  of  rascally  Bedouin 
Arabs;''  that  Moses  knew  all  about  the 
tide,  and  he  arrived  when  it  was  low  water ; 
and  when  the  Bedouins  were  in  the  gulf, 
the  tide  came  up  and  drowned  them ;  and 
to  put  the  question  beyond  dispute  and 
clinch  his  argument,  "  Wouldn't  the  boat- 
men have  found  the  chariots  when  the  tide 
|  went  out?" 

To  visit  the  "Fountain  of  Moses  (Ain 
M<m.«i\  hire  a  boat  instead  of  passing 
round  the  head  of  the  gulf.  You  can  run 
down  with  a  fair  wind,  and  land  within 
two  miles  of  the  spot ;  walk  up,  and  if  you 
want  a  camel-ride,  for  twenty-five  cents 
one  of  the  fellahs  who  reside  here  on  a 
small  piece  of  land  irrigated  by  the  brack- 
ish water  will  supply  you  with  the  luxury. 
The  sensation  of  a  first  camel-ride  is  very 
queer.  The  animal  kneels  down  to  enable 
you  to  mount,  and  when  he  commences  to 
rise,  it  is  with  the  greatest  difficulty  you 
retain  your  seat.  The  shore  about  here 
abounds  with  numerous  handsome  shells. 

Xe;ir  Suez,  a  little  to  the  north,  were  thn 
remains  of  the  sluices  of  the  ancient  Canal 
f>f  Arxinoe,  which  connected  the  Nile  with 
the  Red  Sea.  It  was  commenced  I 
sostris  and  linished  by  Ptolemy  Pliiladel- 
pluis.  Subsequent  to  the  timo  of  the  Ro- 
mans it,  was  neglected,  and  allowed  to  fill 
up  with  sand.  It  was  reopened  by  the 
Caliph  Omar  for  the  purpose  of  sending 
corn  to  the  hoi}'  cities  of  Mecca  and  Me- 
dina. Its  course  is  directly  north  as  far 
as  the  Bitter  Lakes,  or  Shekh  Hanaydik, 
945 


Totras  FROM  CAIRO. 


[THE  DESERT.] 


TOCRS  FROM  CAIRO. 


thence  directly  west  to  the  Nile.  One 
half  its  distance  is  the  site  of  the  new 
French  canal,  through  which  j'ou  proceed 
if  going  to  the  Holy  Land.  If  returning 
to  Europe  direct,  it  will  be  better  to  retrace 
your  steps  to  Alexandria  via  Benha,  as  you 
might  have  to  wait  some  time  at  Port  Said, 
a  miserable  place.  Lately  American  trav- 
elers have  commenced  to  make  the  tour  to 
the  Holy  Land  via  Mount  Sinai  and  Petra, 
a  long  and  tedious  trip,  occupying  210 
hours,  or  about  30  days  of  actual  travel — 
viz.,  from  Suez  to  Sinai,  67  hours;  from 
Sinai  to  Petra,  via  Akabah,  76  hours ;  from 
Petra  to  Hebron,  60  hours  ;  and  from  He- 
bron to  Jerusalem,  7  hours. 

"As  guides,  take  a  few  Tor-Arabs,  who 
will  provide  the  camels ;  a  contract  must 
be  made  with  them  in  Cairo.  On  no  ac- 
count be  persuaded  to  go  first  to  Suez  and 
thence  by  water  to  Tor,  otherwise  you  will 
be  obliged  to  submit  to  extortionate  de- 
mands or — to  turn  back.  The  hire  of  a 
camel  to  Akaba  averages  250  piasters. 
The  Arabs  have  to  find  their  own  provisions 
and  food  for  the  camel.  Never  pay  before- 
hand. Apply  to  a  sheik,  or  leader,  of 
good  reputation,  who  can  exercise  authori- 
ty over  his  race,  for  it  sometimes  happens 
that  members  of  the  same  race  are  envious 
of  him  who  has  let  his  camel,  begin  quar- 
reling on  the  road,  and,  under  all  kinds  of 
pretenses,  place  the  traveler's  luggage  on 
their  own  camels.  Do  not  suffer  yourself 
to  be  imposed  upon  if  (it  seldom  occurs 
now)  suddenly  attacked  by  a  troop  of  hos- 
tile Arabs  and  tribute  is  demanded  from 
you,  and  the  Arabs  who  escort  you  do  not 
fight,  for  the  attacking  party  are  in  league 
with  your  own,  and  will  afterward  divide 
the  booty  with  them.  Therefore,  have  no 
recourse  to  arms,  pay  the  sum  demanded, 
and,  on  your  return  to  Suez  or  Cairo,  de- 
duct it  from  the  wages  of  these  unfaithful 
people. 

"  For  the  distance  between  Sinai  and  El 
Akaba  an  arrangement  must  be  made  with 
a  sheik  of  the  Mezejneh  Arabs,  and  for 
that  between  El  Akaba  and  Hebron  with 
one  of  the  Hawat  chiefs,  for  safety's  sake. 
On  the  4th  of  January,  1857,  some  Ameri- 
cans who  refused  the  £G,  for  six  p.'i-x/ii-, 
demanded  by  the  last  mentioned,  were  fallen 
upon  by  them,  and  escaped  with  their  lives 
by  at  length  sacrificing  £100. 

' '  Never  travel  with  one  race  through  a 
946 


tract  of  desert  which  is  looked  upon  as  the 
property  of  another,  unless  there  be  a  mu- 
tual understanding  between  them.  Water- 
skins  should  be  procured  at  Cairo ;  old  ones 
are  preferable,  as  the  new  impart  an  un- 
pleasant taste  to  the  water.  The  best  tents 
are  those  with  a  single  pole,  likewise  to  be 
had  there.  A  double  number  of  pegs, 
warm  coverings,  and  a  water-proof  under- 
cover, to  resist  the  damp  rising  from  the 
earth, is  indispensable  ;  wax  candles, lamps, 
dried  apricots,  maccaroni,  and  rice.  ( 'liar- 
coal  is  only  wanted  during  the  first  half  of 
the  journey,  afterward  abundance  of  ma- 
terial for  burning  is  found  in  the  valleys. 
It  is  advisable  to  take  more  coffee  and  to- 
bacco than  is  sufficient  for  one's  own  per- 
sonal use,  in  order  occasionally  to  fill  the 
cups  and  the  pipes  of  the  escort ;  the  water- 
skins  must  never  lie  on  the  earth,  which 
often  contains  salt,  but  must  always  be  put 
in  the  shebbckeh— nets  in  which  the  cam- 
els carry  their  burden. 

"  The  tour  from  Cairo  to  the  monastery 
of  Sinai  is  through  Suez.  Ain  Moosa,  Wad; 
j  Sadr,  Ain  Howarah,  Wadi  Gurundel,  Wadi 
Shabejkeh,  Sarabut  el  Kadein,  Wadi  el 
Berk,  Wadi  e'Shech,  and  Wadi  Solaf,  and 
is  95  camel  miles  long. 

"The  tour  bqyond  the  monastery  to  El 
Akaba  is  over  Wadi  el  Orfan,  Wadi  Mur- 
nah,  Ain  el  Hudera,  Wadi  el  Sumglii,  Ain 
Suwejbia,  Ain  el  Wasit,  Aboo  Suwejrah, 
Wadi  el  Mekubbeleh,  Wadi  Merak  and 
I  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  gulf,  and  is  51  cam- 
el miles  in  length.  From  El  Akabah  to 
Petra,  now  Wadi  Moosa,  an  armed  escort 
is  absolutely  necessary.  From  El  Akabah 
to  Hebron  it  is  72  camel  miles ;  to  Jerusa- 
lem, 80.  There  is  less  expense  incurred, 
if  not  less  danger  to  be  apprehended,  if,  in 
visiting  the  ruins  of  Petra,  the  tourist  set 
out  from  Syria,  and,  indeed,  from  Hebron. 

"  The  quail,  which  supplied  the  Israelites 
with  food  during  their  progress  through  the 
ili'-cTts,  is  still  found,  but  never  in  flights. 
Manna  is  also  rare ;  it  is  seen  in  sparkling 
drops  on  the  branches  and  twigs  (not  on 
the  leaves)  of  the  turfa.  a  kind  of  tamarisk- 
tree,  from  which  it  oozes  out  as  a  conse- 
quence of  the  sting  of  an  insect  of  the  coc- 
cos  species.  It  is  white,  sweet,  about  the 
size  of  a  small  pea,  and  melts  in  the  sun. 
It  is  to  be  had  of  all  druggists  in  Cairo. 
Ain  Howarah  is  the  Marah  of  the  Bible  :  it 
has  springs  of  brackish  water.  From  hera 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO. 


[THE  DESERT.] 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO. 


the  road  runs  at  ;i  short  distance  from, 
and  almost  parallel  with,  the  sea,  to  the 
'  baths  of  Pharaoh'  ( Hammain  Faraoon) — 
a  mountain  with  hot  springs,  157°  Fahren- 
heit, strongly  Impregnated  with  salt  and 
sulphur.  Not  far  from  here  the  road  takes 
a  turn  more  inward,  dividing  into  two,  the 
one  of  which  leads  to  the  left  over  Sarulmt 
el  Kadeni,  the  other  to  the  right  over  Wadi 
Faran.  I  ut  both  to  Sinai. 

"  The  road  to  the  left  passes,  near  Sar;:- 
but  el  Kadem,  an  old  copper  foundery, 
•where  are  various  Sinaitic  inscriptions. 
Sarabut  el  Kadein  is  a  sandstone  rock  with 
a  level  summit,  on  which  are  discovered 
numerous  ruins  and  many  hieroglyphic 
tablets,  with  the  names  of  Osirtasen  I., 
Ramses  the  Great,  Thotmes  III.,  and  oth- 
ers of  the  Pharaohs. 

"Tho>e  Sinaitic  inscriptions  are  still 
more  frequently  found  on  the  other  road, 
to  the  right.  The  rocks  on  the  S.  side  of 
Gebel  el  Mokattab  are  more  especially 
covered  with  them.  They  are  also  on  oth- 
er parts  of  the  peninsula,  and  not  only  on 
the  old  pilgrim  roads,  but  may  be  followed 
into  the  most  desolate  ravines.  Rude  signs, 
a  foot  high,  with  rough  drawings  of  camels 
and  goats  between  them,  appear  slightly 
cut  in,  and  only  to  be  recognized  by  then- 
light  color  on  the  dark  stone ;  they  are  not 
explained,  but  probably  refer  to  the  Amale- 
kite  pilgrims,  who  came  to  the  beautiful 
vale  of  Faran  and  the  holy  mountain  of 
Serbal.  The  first  is  the  largest  cultivated 
vale  of  the  peninsula,  is  watered  by  a  brook, 
which  soon  sinks  into  the  sand,  and  con- 
tains many  gardens  with  palms  and  other 
trees.  On  Serbal,  a  majestic  giant  moun- 
tain with  five  peaks,  are  likewise  many  of 
these  inscriptions. 

"After  passing  through  long  ravines 
•we  reach  the  plains  of  Er  Raha,  surrounded 
by  rugged  walls ;  thence,  to  the  south,  run 
two  narrow,  deep  valleys,  which,  after  a 
time,  unite  and  form  a  large  plain  called  Se- 
baieh.  The  mountain  they  surround  and 
separate  from  the  higher  neighboring  sum- 
mit is  Horeb ;  its  S.  higher  summit,  beyond 
the  larger  plain,  is  Sin-.ti.  The  Arabs  call 
the  two  Gebel  Moosa — the  mount  of  I 
Beneath,  in  the  valley  on  the  K.  side,  is  the 
monastery,  a  fortress-looking  building,  with 
high  walls,  which  from  the  inside  are  only 
overtopped  by  a  few  cypresses.  It  has  no 
door,  so  that  he  who  wishes  to  go  in  must 


be  wound  up  the  open  hatchway  by  a  rope 
until  he  reaches  a  height  of  30  feet.     Inside 
are  covered  courts  of  different  sizes,  partly 
covered  by  vines ;  the  very  old  church,  in 
which  is  a  chapel  said  to  be  the  place  where 
God  spoke  to  Moses  from  the  burning  bush. 
!  The  church  is  a  basilica,  has  a  donbl*  row 
of  Corinthian  pillars,  a  splendid  altar  bal- 
ustrade, a  mosai '-work  picture  of  the  cru- 
cilixiun.  a  portrait  of  its  founder,  the  Em- 
:  peror   Justinian,  many    silver   lamps   and 
candlesticks,  a  coflin  with  the  remains  of 
St.  Catharine  (found,  as  tradition  says,  in 
the  neighborhood),  the  silver  lid  of  a  sar- 
cophagus with  the  likeness  of  the  Empress 
j  Anne  of  Russia,  who  desired  to  be  buried 
,  here,  etc.     This  monastery  is  inclosed  by 
i  gardens,  with  high  walls,  in    which    are 
pear,  apple,  apricot,  and  pomegranate  trees, 
and  in  the  adjacent  valleys  the  monks  still 
have  olive  groves. 

"  The  monastery  is  ruled  by  a  superior, 
has  generally  twenty  monks,  and  belongs 
to  the  Greek  Church.  Mohammed,  it  is 
said  in  a  record  now  at  Constantinople,  on 
condition  that  those  monks  feed  the  pass- 
ing pilgrims,  recommended  them  to  the 
good-will  of  his  followers. 

•  •  A  short  distance  from  here  is  the  stone 
out  of  which  Moses  caused  water  to  flow, 
and  on  the  summit  of  Sinai  the  cleft  of  the 
rock  is  shown  in  which  he  concealed  him- 
self when  the  glory  of  the  Lord  passed  over 
him.  'I  he  view  from  the  mount  is  of  more 
importance  to  us  than  these  doubtful  relics. 
"A  steep  path,  with  occasional  steps, 
and  entering  two  arches  of  a  door-way, 
leads  from  the  monastery  to  a  high  plain 
behind  the  mountain,  where  are  a  well,  a 
chapel  consecrated  to  Elias,  and  a  single 
cypress.  From  this  plateau,  which,  to- 
ward the  N.,  is  overtopped  by  rugged  cliffs, 
and  falls  nearly  perpendicularly  into  the 
plain  of  Er  Rahab,  is  a  roundish  rock,  still 
:  over  100  feet  in  height.  It  is  an  enormous 
granite  block,  with  the  ve.-tiges  of  a  Chris- 
tian church  and  a  mosque.  From  this 
height,  nearly  7<>00  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  we  view  the  fearful,  wild,  brown 
and  black  mountains,  and  the  yellow  sand}- 
plains  of  the  desert  in  the  north,  the  sur- 
face of  the  sea  toward  Akaba  anil  Suez,  and 
the  Egyptian  chain  of  mountains  emerging 
from  behind  it.  and.  next,  the  gloomy,  jag- 
ged Catharine  Mountain  to  the  S.W.  To- 
ward the  S.  termination  of  the  peninsula 
947 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO. 


[THE  DESERT.] 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO. 


the  blue  sea  appears  again.  Beneath  us, 
near  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  is  the  plain 
of  Sebaieh,  somewhat  in  the  form  of  a  thea- 
tre, where  once  the  law  was  given  to  the 
Israelites. 

"The  whole  tract  from  Sinai  to  Petal 
has  nothing  of  interest  hut  Akala,  a  for- 
tress with  an  Egj'ptian  garrison,  serving  as 
a  magazine  for  the  caravans  from  Mecca, 
which  stands  on  the  swamps  near  the  Klan- 
ite  Gulf,  which  is  so  dangerous  that  no  ships 
enter  it.  Here— it  is  supposed,  near  the 
so-called  Pharaoh's  island  on  the  W.  coast, 
near  the  N.  end  of  the  gulf — was  the  har- 
bor of  Eziongeber,  whence  Solomon  sent 
ships  to  Ophir. 

"Petra,  one  of  the  most  splendid  ruins 
of  any  city  in  the  Levant,  lies  in  a  hollow 
below  the  mountain  of  Hor,  a  brook  run- 
ning down  to  it.  Guided  by  '  Braun's  His- 
tory of  Art, '  we  follow  this  way  through 
high  oleander  hedges,  and  descry,  firstly, 
on  the  right,  monuments  in  the  shape  of 
masses  of  stone  separated  from  the  rock ; 
then,  on  the  left,  a  plain  facade,  crowned 
by  a  row  of  four  pyramids  of  an  obelisk 
character.  We  proceed  farther  into  the 
cleft,  which  becomes  more  and  more  nar- 
row, and  at  length  see  an  arch  of  a  great 
gate,  of  the  Roman  style,  which  spans  it. 
This  is  succeeded  by  niches,  tablets  with 
inscriptions,  which  have  suffered  from  the 
atmosphere,  and  tombs  on  each  side.  The 
walls  of  the  glen  reach  to  such  a  height 
that  the  sun  can  scarcely  penetrate.  Ivy 
hangs  down  from  the  ridges,  and  fig-trees 
spread  their  branches  over  it.  At  length 
it  is  light,  the  glen  expands,  and  the  rosy 
facade  of  a  high,  magnific  building  hewn 
in  the  opposite  rock  appears,  called  by  the 
people  El  Kasneh  Faraoon,  i.  e.,  the  treas- 
ury of  Pharaoh.  This  is  evidently  a  mon- 
ument in  the  Roman  style.  We  discover 
a  two-storied  temple  facade,  standing  in  a 
niche  above  100  feet  high.  The  rock  wall 
is  .uray,  the  sculpture  in  the  niche  pink.  In 
the  lower  part  are  six  Corinthian  columns ; 
the  four  middle  ones  support  a  rich  frontal, 
from  beneath  which  the  fore-hall  opens, 
occupying  the  same  breadth,  only  that  the 
two  centre  ones  are  free  where  there  is  a 
space  behind  them  ;  one  of  them  is  broken. 
Over  the  frontal  of  this  lower  story  is  an- 
other, likewise  overspanned  by  a  frontal, 
but  in  its  whole  breadth ;  this,  however,  is 
not  complete,  being  cut  out  in  the  centre, 
948 


so  that  on  either  side  a  corner  of  the  frontal 
rests  on  two  pillars.  In  the  centre  is  an 
open  space,  the  walls  of  which  are  also 
graced  with  columns.  In  this  open  niche, 
above  the  frontal  of  the  lower  story,  is  a 
dome  with  pillars,  on  which  is  an  urn,  be- 
lieved by  the  people  to  contain  great  treas- 
ures. The  whole  is  a  sepulchre.  Passing 
through  a  fine  vestibule  we  enter  the  in- 
terior, which  behind  and  at  each  side  con- 
tains three  smaller  rock  chambers,  plain  and 
insignificant,  and  much  lower  than  the  ^rcat 
hall,  an  arrangement  calling  to  mind  the 
tombs  of  the  Persian  kings. 

"The  cavern,  now  broader,  extends  to 
the  right,  between  numerous  rock  cham- 
bers and  facades,  as  far  as  the  theatre,  like- 
wise hewn  out  of  the  rock,  from  the  upper- 
most steps  of  which  we  look  down  into  an- 
other deep  vale.  Here  stood  the  old  town. 
We  find  here  immense  heaps  of  fragments 
and  ruins,  standing  remains  of  temples, 
ruins  of  triumphal  arches,  and  palaces,  all 
after  the  Roman  st3^1e.  Around  are  jag- 
ged mountain  heights,  and  in  the  E.  and  W. 
rock-walls  several  hundred  feet  high,  and 
from  the  tops  to  the  bases  broken  entrances 
to  tombs  are  discerned. 

"  The  grandest  monument  of  the  old  city 
stands  at  a  short  distance  N.  of  Petra,  and 
is  called  El  Dair.  Like  that  of  El  Kasneh 
Faraoon,  it  contains  two  stories  faced  with 
pillars,  but  is  much  higher  and  broader; 
in  the  lower  part  there  is  neither  an  open 
fore-hall  nor  frontal,  but  only  a  frame-work 
between  and  over  the  pillars,  whic1-  seems 
alternately  to  recede  and  protrude,  and 
curves  toward  the  centre.  Above  this 
again  is  the  dome  with  pillars,  over  which 
is  the  urn,  which  has  broken  through  the 
frontal  of  the  upper  story,  leaving  the  cor- 
ners only  supported  by  pillars.  On  all 
three  compartments  are  Doric  triglyphic 
cornices — perpendicular  articulation  alter- 
nating with  round  shields — a  very  old  Asi- 
atic form.  It  is  altogether  unfinished  ;  tlio 
capitals  of  both  stories  are  but  rude  blocks. 
Inside  is  an  altar  niche,  with  a  cross  on  the 
hinder  Avail ;  it  is  therefore  presumed  at  a 
later  period  to  have  been  a  church.  On  a 
rock  opposite  traces  are  perceptible  of  a 
very  large  temple,  which  stood  about  1000 
feet  above  the  lower  level  of  the  valley. 

"The  people  that  inhabited  this  city 
were  probably  Nabatians  who  had  emigrated 
from  S.Babylon,  a  peaceful  trading  people, 


TODRS  FIIOM  CAIRO. 


[THE  DESERT.] 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO 


commanding  the  traffic  on  the  Red  Sea, 
and  in  whose  city  the  caravans  from  Syria 
and  Palmyra  met  those  of  Gaza  from  Egypt. 
Owing  to  other  routes  having  been  taken, 
the  trade  of  Fetra  seems  to  have  gradually 
declined.  The  Romans  had  entered  into 
direct  communication  from  Suez  with  In- 
dia, and  the  K.  gulf  of  the  Red  Sea,  leading 
to  Petra,  with  the  caravan  way,  was  no 
longer  frequented. 

"  The  journey  over  the  W.  or  Libyan 
desert,  where  the  so  called  Great,  Small, 
and  the  Oasis  of  Jupiter  Amman  lie,  is  as 
difficult  as  that  of  the  E.  desert.  The  two 
first  mentioned  are  seldom  frequented  by 
Europeans ;  it  will  suffice,  therefore,  to  ob- 
serve that  the  Great  Oasis  (Wah  el  Kar- 
geh)  is  most  conveniently  reached  by  way 
of  Assioot ;  the  small  one,  on  the  contrary. 
frornBenisooef;  and  to  make  either  excur- 
sion, including  two  days  sojourn,  about 
three  weeks  will  lie  necessary. 

"  From  Cairo  as  far  as  Teraneh  the  tour 
may  be  made  by  water ;  the  other  part  of 
the  distance  to  the  Oasis  on  camels.  The 
stations  are : 

"  The  Natron  Valley  (with  tolera- 
bly good  water) 1    day. 

El  Magrah,  or  Wadi  el  Sumar 

(brackish  water) 2J  days. 

El  Abbah,  or  Libah  (salt  water)  1    day. 

El  Garah  (good  water) 3   days. 

The  city  of  Shvah  (good  water).  .2       " 


9£  days. 

"Another  road  through  the  desert  leads 
from  Alexandria  on  the  sea-coast,  firstly  to 
Baraton,  thence  S.  to  Siwah.  It  was  the 
way  taken  by  Alexander  the  Great,  and, 
taking  this  route,  the  journey  may  be  made 
in  fifteen  days. 

"  The  Oasis  consists  of  two  parts,  the  E., 
fertile,  and  produces  quantities  of  dates  : 
it  forms  a  valley  of  about  1£  mile  in  length 
and  1  mile  in  breadth,  in  the  E.  part  of 
which  is  the  before-mentioned  city  of  Siwah. 
About  an  hour's  walk  E.  from  here,  on  a 
hill  in  a  boggy  neighborhood,  is  the  temple 
of  the  god  Amun,  called  by  the  Arabs  Om 
IJejdah  (white  mother),  and  near  it  the 
source  of  the  sun,  a  small  pond  80  feet  long 
and  55  broad,  the  water  of  which  by  night 
is  warmer  than  by  day,  and  has  12  degrees 
more  specific  gravity  than  that  of  the 
Nile. 

"The  ruins  of  Om  Bejdah  are  not  very 
VOL.  II.— S  2 


extensive,  but  enough  remain  to  denote  the 
style  of  building,  and  many  of  the  sculp- 
tures are  entire.  Among  them  is  the  fig- 
ure of  Amun  with  the  ram's  head,  nuny 
other  gods  easily  recognized,  and  the  walls 
are  covered  with  hieroglyphics.  Farther 
particulars  have  been  given  by  Minutoli 
and  Caillaud.  The  temple  was  at  one  time 
visited  by  strangers  from  such  a  distance ' 
that  a  pillar  therein  erected  was  engraven 
•with  a  hymn  of  Pindar's. 

"About  half  an  hour's  walk  from  Om 
Bejdah,  and  half  a  mile  from  Siwah,  is  a 
hill,  called  Dar  Aboo  Berik,  in  which  are 
several  grottoes,  to  all  appearance  ancient 
tombs,  and  higher  up  are  many  Greek  in- 
scriptions. 

"  Kasr  Gashast,  E.  of  Siwah,  on  the  road 
to  /ejtun,  is  a  ruined  temple  of  the  Roman 
style,  and  in  Zejtun  itself  are  the  remains 
of  two  other  temples  of  a  similar  build. 
Between  Zejtun  and  Garah,  at  Maun,  in  a 
low  morass,  is  a  fourth  Roman  temple,  and 
at  Garah  are  many  ancient  tombs. 

"Other  antiquities,  varying  in  interest, 
are  found  at  Kasr  Room,  a  mile  W.  from 
Siwah,  and  at  Garb  Amun,  W.  of  the  desert 
on  the  way  to  the  Lake  Birket  Arashieh, 
which  last,  although  having  no  ruins  on  its 
banks,  is  religiously  regarded  by  the  inhalv 
itants  of  the  Oasis,  as  tradition  says  that 
on  the  island  in  its  centre  are  concealed  the 
crown,  sword,  and  the  seal  of  Solomon,  for 
which  reason  strangers  are  not  permitted 
to  tread  it.  The  chief  production  of  the 
desert  are  dates,  which  are  highly  prized. 
The  inhabitants  are  hospitable,  but  suspi- 
cious and  bigoted  Mohammedans ;  they 
speak  Arabic,  but  at  the  same  time  have  a 
peculiar  language.  They  have  their  eld- 
i  ers,  a  general  treasury,  supplied  by  fines 
and  by  the  property  of  those  who  die  with- 
out heirs,  which  is  applied  to  charitable 
purposes,  repairing  of  the  mosques,  hospi- 
tality to  strangers,  etc.,  and  live  in  con- 
stant feuds. 

"  Siwah  is  divided  into  two  parts,  the 
upper  and  the  lower.  In  the  former  mar- 
ried persons  only  reside,  no  bachelor  being 
suffered ;  if,  however,  he  resolves  to  take  a 
wife,  he  returns  with  her  to  his  father's 
house,  and  builds  a  second  story  to  it; 
again,  when  the  second  marries  he  builds 
another  story,  so  that  the  house  is  in  pro- 
portion to  the  number  of  sons  in  a  family. 
Some  of  theie  houses  have  a  very  odd  ap. 
949 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO. 


[THE  DESERT.] 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO. 


pearance.     Tha  streets  are  irregular,  nar-  : 
row,  and  uncommonly  dark  ;  some  of  them 
are   arched  over  with   brick-work,  above 
which  are  rooms. 

"Till  the  year  1820  the  Oasis  was  inde- 
pendent, when  it  was  taken  by  Mehemed 
Ali  and  united  to  Egypt.  The  people,  dis- 
satisfied at  being  deprived  of  their  inde- 
pendence, have  repeatedly  risen  against 
their  Turkish  ruler ;  the  attempts,  howev- 
er, in  1829  and  1835,  to  regain  their  free- 
dom were  easily  subdued,  as  was  likewise 
the  insurrection  commenced  in  1845. 

"Excepting  dates,  the  land  produces 
nothing  for  export ;  there  are  no  manufac- 
tories, unless  we  admit  those  of  bast  bas- 
kets, in  the  making  of  which  the  inhab- 
itants distinguish  themselves.  Travelers 
to  these  parts  must  not  omit  to  provide 
themselves  with  a  firman,  good  letters  of 
introduction,  and  safe  guides.  It  is  also 
highly  necessary  to  speak  Arabic. 

"  Respecting  the  tour  averElArish  to  Je- 
rusalem and  Syria,  the  shortest  from  Cairo 
by  land,  the  following  observations  are  to 
be  attended  to :  If  the  tourist  does  not  pre- 
fer procuring  camels  and  articles  for  the 
journey  himself,  he  must  make  a  contract 
with  the  dragoman  of  a  consulate,  in  which 
the  dragoman  must  be  bound  to  provide  the 
traveler  or  travelers  with  good  camels,  iron 
bedsteads,  water-proof  double  tents,  and  so 
many  meals  a  day,  with  or  without  wine, 
beer,  etc.,  including  all  expenses  and  fees, 
and  to  conduct  the  travelers  within  a  cer- 
tain time  to  a  given  place — Jerusalem, 
Damascus,  or  Beyrut.  Days  must  be 
specified  for  visiting  the  intermediate 
places.  Farther,  it  is  better  to  contract  at 
first  only  for  the  journey  to  Jerusalem, 
where,  if  there  be  no  reason  for  dissatisfac- 
tion, the  agreement  may  be  continued. 
Finally,  all  sums  must  be  paid  in  piasters. 
The  general  daily  expense,  avoiding  ex- 
travagance, was,  in  1857,  18s.  to  20s.,  and 
the  above-named  tour  takes,  reckoning  oc- 
casional halts,  and  when  no  infectious  fever 
is  raging  in  Egypt  (often  requiring  three 
days'  quarantine),  eighteen  days,  nine  of 
which  are  passed  in  the  desert. 

' '  During  the  tour  between  El  Arish  and 
Gaza,  every  European  and  Copt,  according 
to  an  old  custom,  must  pay  tribute  three 
times  to  the  resident  Arabs.  It  is  only  a 
trifle — three  piasters  for  each  person ;  for 
this,  however,  the  receivers  are  answerable 
950 


for  any  robbery  that  may  be  committed 
within  their  district. 

"  The  first  part  of  the  way  leads  through 
gardens  and  palm-groves  to  the  little  city 
of  El  Chanka,  distant  about  three  German  1 
miles,  which  once  possessed  fine  buildings. 
mosques,  and  colleges ;  it  is  now  sadly  fall- 
en, and  offers  nothing  worth  notice.  We 
generally  halt  here  for  the  first  night  in 
our  tent.  We  soon  afterward  reach  a  tract 
of  country  in  which  antiquarians  suppose  ; 
to  have  found  the  land  of  Goslien  men- 
tioned in  the  Bible.  This  was  once  the 
dwelling-place  of  the  children  of  Israel, 
who  are  said  to  have  taken  up  their  chief 
quarters  below  Heliopolis,  near  Bubastis, 
and  the  present  Belbais ;  it  is  now  called 
Sharkijeh,  and  is  one  of  the  most  fertile 
spots  in  Egypt.  The  fields  are  carefully- 
cultivated,  and  the  water  for  this  purpose 
is  conducted  as  far  as  the  border  of  the 
desert.  The  second  encampment  for  the 
night  is  usually  at  Tel  Basta,  the  Bubastis 
of  the  Greeks,  the  Pibeseth  of  the  Bible. 
This,  too,  was  formerly  of  some  importance, 
but  is  now  a  miserable  little  place  with  a 
few  narrow,  dirty  streets.  Near  it  are  a 
few  ruins,  and  fragments  of  sculpture,  per- 
haps remains  of  the  temple  of  Pacht,  who 
was  worshiped  here.  Here  we  provide 
provisions  for  the  desert  journey,  which 
commences  the  next  morning,  and  leads 
over  three  different  formations  of  wastes  : 
the  first  is  a  compact,  hard  soil,  mixed  with 
small  stones,  and  void  of  vegetation ;  the 
second  is  hilly,  with  scanty  plants ;  and 
the  third  a  deep  sandy  surface,  with  hills 
of  sand  blown  by  the  sea  winds.  The  illu- 
sion of  the  Fata  Morgana  is  often  seen,  but 
nowhere  is  a  spring  to  be  found.  On  the 
third  day  we  arrive  at  a  small  oasis,  in  the 
middle  of  which,  enlivened  by  numerous 
flights  of  ducks  and  storks,  lies  the  little 
Lake  Yasale.  Farther  on  the  landscape 
assumes  a  hilly  appearance,  and  the  soil 
vields  a  few  shrubs  and  plants.  Again  we 
pursue  our  course  through  deep  sand,  blown 
about  in  dense  clouds  by  every  wind,  and 
where  throughout  the  desert,  in  March 
even,  very  cool  mornings  are  succeeded 
by  burning  hot  clays.  A  regular  road 
through  the  desert  is  quite  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. The  only  marks  showing  the  route 
ire  the  skeletons  of  camels,  which  also 
serve  to  frame  the  single  springs  and  to 
protect  them  from  the  sand.  Where  such 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO. 


[THE  DESERT.] 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO. 


are  not  met  with,  the  Arab  who  conducts 
tilt1  caravan  takes  the  sun  for  his  compass. 

"The  .seventh  day's  journey  brings  us  to 
a  district  where  a  little  grass  and  even  a 
few  flowers  are  descried.  Here  is  a  walled 
well  near  the  tombs  of  two  Moslomite 
saints,  and  the  road  leading  to  Sulahieh. 
The  next  day  we  pass  over  vide  natron 
plains  ;  soon  afterward  the  sea  appears  in 
the  horizon.  We  are  now  in  the  land 
(once)  of  the  Amalekites. 

"On  the  following  evening  we  view  the 
village  of  l-'.l  Ar'tsh,  near  which  the  monot- 
onous character  of  the  landscape  changes, 
and  presents  immense  mounds  of  drifted 
sand.  Near  the  village  is  a  stone  frontier 
fort,  under  the  walls  of  which  we  generally 
pitch  our  tent  and  have  our  passport  vise'd. 
At  a  short  distance  flows  the  Brook  of 
Kgypt.  synoiiymal  to  Sihor.  designated  in 
Genesis  as  the  boundary  of  the  land  prom- 
ised to  the  generation  of  Abraham. 

"  The  next  day  produces  another  change 
of  scene — wide  extent  of  meadow-land,  on 
which  herds  of  camels  and  flocks  of  brown 
shc.'ji  aro  grazing.  We  also  discover  signs 
of  cultivation  in  the  plowed  fields.  At 
length,  about  a  mile  from  El  Arisb,  we  ar- 
rive at  the  frontiers  of  Syria,  which  are 
formed  by  a  chain  of  small  hills.  At  the 
guard-house  we  give  up  our  passport,  and 
ride  into  the  land  of  the  Philistines.  A 
few  hours  later  we  pass  the  tomb  of  Shekh 
Aboo  Zunid,  near  which  are  two  pillars 
erected  by  Mehemed  Ali,  representing  the 
boundary  mark  bcticeen  Africa  and  Asia. 

"Thence  to  Gaza  is  a  hard  journey  of  two 
days,  the  road  leading  along  the  coast,  the 
sea  not  being  visible,  owing  to  the  interven- 
ing chain  of  hills.  The  first  Syrian  village 
is  Khan  Yumas.  In  1856  travelers  were 
here  received  by  Turkish  soldiers,  and  es- 
corted a  four  hours'  walk  to  the  quarantine. 
This  is  a  stone  building  surrounded  by  a 
high  wall — outside  is  a  morass ;  inside  is 
very  dirty,  and  infested  with  vermin  of 
every  description — in  which  travelers  are 
obliged  to  pass,  according  to  the  law,  five 
days,  but.  as  those  of  arrival  and  departure 
are  reckoned,  in  reality  but  three  days,  be- 
fore they  can  proceed  on  their  journey. 

••  From  Gaza,  which  is  agreeably  situ- 
ated among  palm  groves,  olive-gardens, 
and  cactus  shrubs,  and  which  contains  a 
good  bazar  and  about  15,000  inhabitants, 
we  proceed — as  far  as  the  road  is  safe — to 


Hebron.  At  first  the  landscape  is  pleasing, 
then  monotonous  meadow  land,  and,  lastly, 
here  and  there  very  rugged  hills. 

"  During  this  journey  we  pass  the  little 
towns  of  Hurejr.  I'm  Lachis,  Ajlan,  Es  Su- 
karijeh,and  Bejt  Ibrin.in  which  are  mounds 
of  ruins,  considered  by  Hobinson  to  be  the 
remains  of  the  city  of  Eleutheropolis.  We 
ride  in  two  hours  to  Idhna,  whence  in  ten 
hours  we  arrive  at  Hebron,  situated  in  a 
deep  valley,  surrounded  by  picturesque 
mountain  walls. 

"At  a  distance  the  city,  although  the 
walls  no  longer  stand,  resembles  a  fortress 
of  the  Middle  Ages,  the  houses  being  built 
on  terraces  one  over  the  other,  and  mostly 
in  a  turret  form,  with  large  arched  gate- 
ways and  massive  walls.  The  interior  is 
dirty  and  dark,  and  its  commerce  insignifi- 
cant. It  contains  10,000  inhabitants; 
their  principal  employment  is  in  the  culti- 
vation of  fruit  and  the  vine ;  there  are  also 
manufactories  of  water-skins,  glass,  etc. 
These  people  are  thought  to  be  fanatic  ene- 
mies to  Europeans,  a  supposition  not  con- 

|  firmed  by  later  travelers,  t.  e.,  A.  Ziegler. 
"Hebron  embraces  many  recollections 

j  connected  with  holy  writ. 

"The  mosque  El  Haram,  still  standing 
on  the  precipice  of  a  mountain,  which  no 
Christian  is  allowed  to  ascend,  is  said  to  be 
the  tomb  of  the  three  patriarchs  of  the  Jews, 
and  also  that  of  Joseph.  On  one  of  the  two 
reservoirs  built  of  hewn  stone  it  is  also 
averred  that  David  hung  up  the  feet  and 
hands  of  the  murderers  of  Ishbosheth.  It  is 
not  our  province  to  dispute  the  truth  of 
these  assertions.  About  an  hour's  walk 
from  Hebron,  on  the  way  to  Jerusalem,  is 
the  'house  of  Abraham.'  With  as  little 
certainty  can  we  pronounce  this  ruin  to  oc- 
cupy the  site  where  the  patriarch  pitched 
his  tent  and  served  the  angel  with  roast 
veal,  and  that  the  splendid  Sindian  oak, 
whose  trunk  is  split  into  three  and  stands 
X.W.,  is  the  same  under  which  the  'fiiend 
of  God,'  El  Khulin,  reposed.  The  Rab- 
binic fable,  according  to  which  Adam  was 
created  here  from  a  lump  of  earth,  Abel 
was  slain  by  Cain,  etc.,  need  merely  l;e 
mentioned. 

"From  Hebron  to  Jerusalem  is  ei^ht 
camel  miles,  and  Bethlehem  is  touched  at 
on  the  way.  Of  this  and  other  places  of 
Palestine  we  shall  give  information.  I 

:  conclusion,  the  way  here  mentioned  f- 
951 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO. 


[THE  DESERT.] 


TOURS  FROM  CAIRO. 


'ls  hardly  ever  taken  or  rarely  chosen 
by  Europeans,  being  neither  the  shortest 
nor  the  cheapest.  The  tour  may  be  made 
by  the  steamers  of  the  Austrian  Lloyds  or 
the  Messageries  Maritimes,  running  from 
Alexandria  to  Jaffa  in  36  or  40  hours,  or 
Port  Said  to  Jaffa  in  half  that  time.  There 
is  also  a  Russian  line,  which  sails  weekly 
from  Port  Said,  and  from  Alexandria  to 
Jaffa,  thence  to  Jerusalem  in  a  day  and  a 
half  by  horse  and  diligence.  The  railroad 
from  Suez  to  Port  Said,  along  the  banks  of 
the  canal,  is  finished  as  far  as  Ismailia,  a 
distance  of  56  miles. 

Although  in  our  "  Syria  and  Palestine" 
we  advise  travelers  not  to  engage  a  drago- 
952 


man  until  they  arrive  at  Jerusalem,  still 
there  may  be  some  exceptions  ;  for  in- 
stance, they  may  be  late  in  the  season,  or 
they  may  find  an  exceptional  good  man 
who  will  not  commence  his  charge  until 
their  arrival  at  Jaffa,  and  who  will  make 
some  deduction  if  they  remain  an  unusual 
long  time  in  Jerusalem.  In  case  they  are 
not  able  to  land  at  Jaffa  on  account  of  bois- 
terous weather,  and  are  obliged  to  proceed 
to  Beirout,  then  he  should  not  commence 
his  charge  until  they  are  ready  to  leave 
Beirout,  as  the  hotel  would  only  be  $3  per 
day,  and  th*  dragoman  from  $6  to  $10  ^er 
day. 


PALESTINE. 


Harper's  Hand  Book . 


SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE. 


HISTORY. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


HISTORY. 


I'KOM  the  earliest  ages  of  authentic  his- 
tory, Palestine  (with  whose  ancient  and  sa- 
cred history  every  reader  is  familiar)  has 
been  the  object  of  curiosity  at  once  ardent 
and  enlightened.  Since  the  time  that 
Abraham  crossed  the  Euphrates  (3780 
years  ago)  a  solitary  traveler,  down  to  the 
recent  massacres  in  that  unhappy  country, 
Syria  has  been  looked  upon  with  greater 
attention,  and  described  with  greater  ac- 
curacy and  minuteness,  than  any  other 
portions  of  the  ancient  world.  There  are 
authors  of  reputation  who  state  that  they 
have  read  over  tico  hundred  <////'<  r<-nt  works, 
and  still  knew  nothing  about  it  until  they 
had  seen  it.  It  would  be  at  variance  with 
the  original  design  of  this  work  to  give  a 
description  of  the  natural  feelings  of  the 
traveler,  as  experienced  by  the  author  in 
seeing  the  land  of  the  Patriarchs  for  the 
first  time,  when  there  are  so  many  descrip- 
tions to  which  he  can  refer;  he  will  only 
say  here  that  for  many  years  it  had  been 
his  great  desire  to  see  the  land  where  lived 
Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Joseph;  to  see  the 
city  conquered  by  David  and  enriched  by 
Solomon;  to  see  the  spot  on  which  our 
Savior  gave  up  the  ghost  to  redeem  man- 
kind, and  where,  on  the  same  spot,  the 
godlike  Godfrey  de  Bouillon,  1088  years 
later,  planted  the  standard  of  the  Cross, 
and  rescued  the  Holy  City  from  Moham- 
medan rule  after  a  possession  of  460 
years. 

Although  his  first  feelings  were  those 
of  unbounded  joy.  they  soon  were  changed 
to  holy  sorrow,  as  on  every  side  the  evi- 
dence was  conclusive  that  He  indeed  "  had 
risen,"  when  throughout  the  whole  coun- 
try there  is  hardly  a  single  symptom  of  ei- 
ther commerce,  comfort,  or  happiness. 

On  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean there  is  a  long  strip  of  country,  bound- 
ed on  the  west  by  the  River  Jordan,  and 
nowhere  exceeding  fifty  miles  in  in  rx- 
tremest  breadth.  This  is  the  ancient  Ca- 
naan, or  Palestine,  properly  so  called,  from 
the  name  of  the  Philistines,  who  were  ex- 
pelled thence  by  the  tribes  of  Israel. 
Three  of  those  tribes,  however — those  of 
Reuben,  Gad,  andManasseh — had  territory 
assigned  to  them  east  of  the  Jordan.  That 


of  Reuben  immediately  east  of  the  Dead 
Sea,  Gad  north  of  that,  Manasseh  north  of 
that,  immediately  east  of  the  Sea  of  Gali- 
lee, and  from  these  three  tribes  are  sprung 
the  present  wild  and  wandering  tribes  of 
Bedouins. 

The  length  of  Palestine  from  Dan  to 
Beersheba  is  about  180  miles.  In  Pales- 
tine, as  in  Greece,  every  traveler  is  struck 
with  the  smallness  of  the  territory ;  but, 
like  that  once  powerful  country,  events 
have  made  it  large ;  and  limited  as  was  its 
territory,  it  is  quite  certain  that  its  fertility 
\\  as  very  great — so  actually  marvelous  that 
it  supported  not  merely  in  comfort,  but  in 
good  opulence,  a  population  infinitely  more 
numerous  than  any  other  territory  of  like 
extent  ever  supported  either  in  ancient  or 
in  modern  times.  Even  in  the  times  of 
Moses  the  fighting  men  numbered  above 
half  a  million,  which,  according  to  the 
usual  manner  of  estimating  the  whole 
population  by  the  number  of  its  fighting 
men,  would  give  over  2,500,000  souls.  We 
have  also  the  authority  of  Josephus,  who 
states  that  in  the  time  of  Titus  the  little 
province  of  Galilee  alone  furnished  100,000 
fighting  men.  Of  the  present  population 
there  is  great  diversity  of  opinion.  M'Cul- 
loch,  quoting  from  Bowring's  Report  of 
Syria,  says  it  contains  175,000  Jews,  and 
Mr.  Porter,  a  resident  of  Damascus  for  five 
years,  gives  the  number  of  native  Jews  of 
Syria  at  15,000 ;  and  those  who  have  come 
from  every  country  on  the  globe  to  visit 
the  graves  of  their  fathers  and  lay  their 
dust  by  their  side,  and  who  are  residents 
of  the  four  holy  cities  of  Jerusalem,  He- 
bron, Tiberias,  and  Safet,  amount  in  all  to 
9000,  making  a  total  of  24,000  instead  of 
175,000!*  It  is  very  hard  to  get  at  the 
exact  population,  and  writers  sometimes 
make  very  random  guesses.  The  present 
population,  as  nearly  as  it  is  possible  to 
obtain  information,  is  about  518,000,  di- 
vided into  400,000  Mohammedans  (Arabs), 
50,000  Maronites  (or  Latins),  20,000  Dru»  •*. 
30,000  Greek  Christians,  20,000  Syrians, 
10,000  Jews,  and  10,000  Turks.  The  last 

*  According  to  the  Almanac  de  Gotha,  pub- 
lished for  1S61,  the  whole  Jewish  population  of 
Turkey  in  Asia  u  only  80,000. 

953 


HISTORY. 


[STRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


HlSTOBY. 


are  the  rulers  of  the  country,  every  per- 
son occupying  any  government  position 
in  Syria  being  a  Turk. 

The  following  works  may  be  read  with 
great  interest  on  Syria  and  Palestine  : 
Prime's  "  Tent-life  in  the  Holy  Land  ;" 
Thompson's  ''The  Land  and  the  Book;" 
Robinson's  "  Researches  ;"  Burckhardt's 
"Travels  in  Syria;"  and  Murray's  '•  Hand- 
book of  Sj'ria  and  Palestine."  AVo  have 
made  copious  extracts  of  descriptions  from 
Prof.  Hughes'  "Treasury  of  Geography," 
a  work  of  unusual  accuracy,  which  our  own 
vision  has  confirmed. 

Although  anciently  the  possessions  of 
the  Israelites  were  confined  within  com- 
paratively narrow  limits,  it  must  be  borne 
in  mind  that  those  limits  were  frequently 
and  greatly  extended  by  war  and  conquest. 
In  the  time  of  Solomon,  for  instance,  the 
extent  of  his  kingdom  was  very  great,  in- 
cluding a  great  portion  of  Syria — it  must 
be  rememtared  Palestine,  or  the  Holy 
Land,  is  only  a  portion  of  the  territory  of 
Syria — and  stretched  in  the  northeasterly 
direction  as  far  as  the  River  Euphrates. 

Of  the  vastness  of  the  wealth  of  the 
Jews  in  the  time  of  Solomon  no  more 
striking  evidence  can  bo  required  than  is 
afforded  by  the  details  which  are  given 
in  the  First  Book  of  Kings  of  the  enor- 
mous outlay  bestowed  by  him  iipon  the 
Temple  and  other  buildings. 

In  the  year  721  the  kingdom  of  Israel 
was  overrun  by  the  Assyrians,  and  Judah 
in  its  turn  was  conquered  by  Nebuchad- 
nezzar. The  Chaldeans,  the  Medes,  and 
Persians  ruled  over  this  once  fertile  and 
populous  expanse  of  country  until  they 
•were  in  turn  invaded  and  conquered  by 
Alexander  the  Great.  In  the  division 
of  the  vast  territories  which  that  brilliant 
conqueror  brought  under  his  single  rule, 
Judah  fell  under  the  dominion  of  the 
kings  of  Syria,  and  remained  subject  to 
the  Syrians  or  Egyptians  until  T30  B.C., 
when  John  Hyrcanus  successfully  revolt- 
ed against  the  Syrians,  and  assumed  the 
crown  of  king  and  pontiff  alike.  This 
double  power,  royal  and  ecclesiastical,  re- 
mained in  the  Asmonean  dynasty  until 
Antony  gave  the  kingdom  to  Herod  the 
Great,  a  prince  of  an  Idumean  family. 

To  a  people  so  intensely  national  as  the 
Jews,  this  subjection  to  a  foreign  ruler 
who  differed  so  widely  from  them  in  relig- 
954 


ion,  and  who  despised  them,  and  was  de- 
tested by  them  in  return,  could  not  but  be 
irksome  to  them.  The  consequence  was, 
they  were  continually  revolting. 

But  the  Roman  power  was  too  vast,  and 
its  policy  too  inflexible  to  be  successfully 

;  resisted  by  a  people  so  depressed  as  the 

:  Jewish  people  even  then  were. 

Irritated  by  frequent  revolts  of  subjects 
whom  they  so  much  despised,  the  Romans 
at  length,  under  Vespasian,  determined  tc 
inflict  upon  the  Jews  a  chastisement  so 
severe  as  iinally  to  crush  them  :  and  after 
a  long  and  terrible  siege,  in  which  it  is 
said  by  Josephus  no  fewer  than  1,100,000 
were  killed,  and  100,000  taken  prisoners, 
it  was  taken  by  Vespasian's  son  Titus  in 

I  the  year  71  A.D.  The  Temple  and  all 
the  principal  edifices  were  destroyed,  and 
the  whole  city  so  completely  desolated, 
that  from  that  period  until  the  time  of  the 
Emperor  Hadrian  it  was  inhabited  only  by 
a  mere  handful  of  the  poorest  Jews.  Ha- 
drian restored  many  of  its  buildings,  plant- 
ed a  colony  there,  and  erected  temples  to 
Venus  and  Jupiter. 

The  country  was  next  overrun  by  the 
Saracens  under  Omar  in  the  year  636,  and 
remained  subject  to  them  for  400  years. 
It  then  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Turks, 
who  proved  still  more  oppressive  masters 
than  any  of  their  predecessors. 

The  description  of  the  wrongs  inflicted 
on  both  Jew  and  Christian  given  by  pil- 
grims on  their  return  aroused  a  feeling 
of  indignation  alike  in  the  priesthood  and 
in  the  chivalry  of  Europe,  and  led  to  the 
well-known  Crusades,  or  Holy  Wars,  the 
result  of  which,  at  the  close  of  the  llth 
century,  was  the  taking  of  Jerusalem  by 
the  Crusaders,  and  the  forming  of  the  Lat- 
in kingdom  under  Godfrey  de  Bouillon 
and  his  successors.  Circumscribed  in  ex- 
tent, the  Latin  kingdom  of  Jerusalem  was 
never  for  an  instant  safe  from  -the  attacks 
of  the  fierce  warriors  of  the  Crescent ;  and 
the  whole  term  of  its  existence  (from  1099 
to  1187)  may  be  said  to  be  one  long  alter- 
nation of  hollow  and  brief  truce,  and  of 
sanguinary  and  obstinate  battle  between 
the  Christian  and  the  Saracen. 

The  accomplished,  and,  in  many  partic- 
ulars, chivalric  and  admirable  Saladin,  at 
length  conquered  Judea  in  1187;  and  the 
various  disturbances  and  changes  of  which 
it  was  the  scene  after  the  breaking  up  of 


MONEY. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JAFFA. 


his  kingdom,  rendered  it  the  easy  and  in- 
evitable prey  of  the  Turkish  empire,  by 
which  it  was  absorbed  soon  after  the  com- 
mencement of  tho  fourteenth  century. 

An  empire  so  large  and  so  little  compact- 
ed  as  that  of  Turkey  must  of  necessity 
have  many  actual  sovereigns,  even  though 
they  all  lie  nominally  subject  to  one.  Ac- 
cordingly, though  the  whole  Turkish  em- 
pin-  is  nominally  and  formally  subject  to 
the  sultan,  the  pachalies  into  which  it  is 
divided  are  in  reality,  to  a  very  consider- 
able extent,  independent.  The  late  M 
hemet  All,  the  energetic  ruler  of  Egypt 
during  a  long  term  of  years,  was  virtually 
independent  of  Turkish  power,  and  had 
extended  his  sway  over  the  whole  of  Syria, 
until  the  intervention  of  the  governments 
of  western  Europe  compelled  its  restora-  1 
tion  to  the  authority  of  the  sultan  in  1840. 

Syria  is  divided  into  four  pachalics,  the 
rulers  of  whom  are  viceroys  ;  they  are  call- 
ed Aleppo,  Damascus,  Tripoli,  and  Acre.  | 
Jerusalem  is  under  the  pachalic  of  Damas- 
cus, the  pacha  residing  in  the  latter  city 
(Moamer  Pacha). 

)fon<*y. — Accounts  are  kept  in  Syria  in 
piastres  and  paras.  40  paras  =  1  piastre  — 
5  cents  U.  S.  currency.  Be  particular  in 
carrying  plenty  of  the  smallest  coin  of  the 
country,  paras,  which  are  about  the  size 
of  a  large  fish-scale.  There  is  a  coin  call- 
ed here  the  Icamtiry,  about  the  size  of  the 
old  smooth  12£  cent  pieces,  and  worth 
about  two  cents,  one  piece  of  which  tells 
immensely  in  the  way  of  backsheesh.  The 
gold  coins  of  the  country  are  lira  =  108  pi- 
astres and  20  paras,  halves  of  the  same ; 
ghazeh^ol  piastres  and  10  paras,  halves 
of  the  same.  Silver  coins  are  mejideh  =  22 
piastres,  halves  and  quarters  of  the  same. 
Copper  or  mixed  metal  are  beshlik=">  pias- 
tres, halves  of  the  same,  kamary  and  paras. 

We  should  advise  not  taking  a  drago- 
man from  Egypt  nor  from  Jaffa  only  as 
far  as  Jerusalem,  where  you  will  have 
time  to  select  a  good  one.  The  customary 
prices  for  the  trip  are  from  $C>  to  $10  per 
day  for  each  traveler  ;  this  includes  guides,  • 
muleteer-,  horses,  mules,  camp  fixtures, 
provisions,  bttettkettk,  and  every  thing  req- 
uisite. Many  persons  travel  without  a 
tent,  the  dragoman  always  being  able  in 
each  village  to  find  a  very  fair  place  to 
cook  and  sleep,  the  Mill  of  Mettdhdh  alone 
excepted.  Some  prefer  it,  especially  in 


the  "rainy  season,"  because  the  fleas  can 
lie  shaken  off,  but  the  fever  not  often.  The 
author  slept  in  the  Mill  of  Melhihah  one 
night  in  company  with  half  a  dozen  horses, 
ditto  mules,  ditto  muleteers,  two  millstones 
turning  with  a  frightful  racket  within  two 
inches  of  his  feet,  a  lot  of  Bedouin  Arabs 
waiting  for  their  grist,  whose  sinister  faces 
told  you  that  any  one  of  them  would  not 
hesitate  to  cut  your  throat  for  a  dollar ;  all 
this  with  the  water  plunging  and  foaming 
underneath  the  floor,  and  visible  through 
interstices  in  the  logs  with  which  it  was 
composed.  On  the  same  night  his  poor 
ill-fated  friend  Osbourne,  of  Philadelphia, 
encamped  at  the  same  place  and  caught 
the  Syrian  fever,  which  terminated  in  his 
death  four  weeks  later  at  Cairo. 

Jajfa,  the  ancient  Joppa,  contains  a  pop- 
ulation of  5000,  of  which  10CO  are  Chris- 
tians. It  rises  in  the  form  of  an  amphi- 
theatre, and  is  surmounted  on  the  top  by 
a  round  castle.  The  port,  which  is  defended 
by  two  batteries,  is  so  choked  up  with  sand 
that  none  but  small  vessels  can  approach  the 
shore ;  in  boisterous  weather  the  steamers 
can  not  land  the  passengers.  The  houses 
are  principally  built  of  stone;  the  streets 
are  narrow,  dirty,  and  badly  paved.  The 
town,  however,  looks  well  at  a  distance, 
surrounded  as  it  is  by  beautiful  orchards 
of  oranges  and  lemons,  trees,  and  tall  wav- 
ing cypresses.  There  are  no  "sights"  to 
be  seen  in  Jaffa,  although  of  great  histori- 
cal interest.  Its  port  is  considered  the 
oldest  in  the  world.  The  tradition  here  is, 
that  it  was  in  this  port  where  Noah  built 
his  ark ;  and  Pliny  mentions  that  in  his 
time  the  marks  of  the  chain  were  visible 
that  l.ound  Andromeda  to  the  rock,  and 
the  actual  skeleton  of  the  sea-monster  to 
which  she  was  exposed  was  for  a  long  time 
exhibited  at  Rome !  It  was  a  port  of  im- 
portance in  the  time  of  Solomon;  and  here 
Hiram,  king  of  Tyre,  brought  the  cedars 
of  Lebanon  for  the  building  of  the  Temple. 

The  house  of  "  Simon  the  Tanner"  is 
shown  where  Peter,  while  praying  on  the 
house-top,  had  the  vision,  and  heard  the 
voice  commanding  him  -'to  rise,  kill,  and 
eat."  It  was  from  Jaffa  Jonah  embarked; 
and  here,  according  to  the  X.  Testament,  Pe- 
ter recalled  TaMtha  to  life.  It  was  fortified 
by  Louis  1  X.  of  I 'ranee  in  the  13th  century. 

In  1799  Jarta  was  taken  by  Napoleon 
after  an  obstinate  and  murderous  siege. 
955 


JAFFA. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JERUSALEM 


Porter,  in  his  "  Hand-book  of  Syria  and 
Palestine,"  says  that  4000  Turkish  soldiers 
were  inhumanly  butchered  by  the  order  of 
Napoleon  after  they  had  capitulated  with 
the  express  understanding  that  their  lives 
should  be  spared;  while  M'Culloch,  al- 
though condemning  the  act,  says  it  was 
justifiable  according  to  the  laws  of  war, 
and  that  the  number  was  but  1200.  Porter 
seems  particularly  savage  at  the  Emperor. 
Hear  what  he  says  :  "  In  one  of  the  con- 
vents, used  as  a  military  hospital  for  the 
French  troops,  Napoleon  committed  an  act 
which  is  not  only  a  lasting  disgrace  to  the 
man,  but  a  dark  stain  on  the  history  of  a 
civilized  nation,  that  had  stains  enough 
without.  Just  before  his  retreat  across 
the  Desert  to  Egypt,  Napoleon  visited  the 
plague  hospital  in  this  house,  and  invited 
such  of  the  suffering  soldiers  as  had  suffi- 
cient strength  to  get  into  the  litters  pre- 
pared for  their  use.  He  walked  through  the 
rooms,  affecting  a  careless  air.  striking  his 
boot  with  his  riding-whip,  in  order  to  remove 
the  apprehensions  in  regard  to  the  con- 
tagious nature  of  the  malady.  After  all 
capable  of  removal  had  been  placed  on  their 
litters,  there  was  still  a  large  number — 
from  four  to  five  hundred — left  behind. 
What  was  to  be  done  with  them  ?  A  humane 
man  would  have  made  some  provision  for 
their  safety  at  all  hazards ;  a  reckless  man 
would  have  left  them  to  their  fate ;  but 
Napoleon  ordered  them  to  be.  poisoned  !  It 
must  be  recorded  to  the  honor  of  the  chief 
of  his  medical  staff  that,  when  the  proposal 
was  made  to  him,  he  proudly  replied,  '  My 
vocation  is  to  prolong  life,  not  to  extinguish 
it.'  Others  were  found,  however,  ready 
even  to  murder  at  a  tyrant's  command. 
Great  allowance  must  be  made  for  the 
bitter  feeling  entertained  by  all  English 
writers  against  the  first  Emperor. 

The  time  from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  is 
twelve  hours,  or  thirty-six  miles,  if  by 
horseback.  There  is  a  diligence  now 
running.  The  ordinary  plan  is  to  start 
from  Jaffa  in  the  afternoon,  and  rest  for 
the  night  at  Ramleh,  in  the  Latin  con- 
vent founded  by  William  the  Good,  of 
Burgundy.  This  occupies  three  hours, 
and,  by  starting  early  the  following  morn- 
ing, you  arrive  at  Jerusalem  in  the  even- 
ing. 

On  the  way  to  Ramleh  you  pass  Lydda 
or  /xwd,  where  may  be  seen  the  ruins  of 
956 


the  Church  of  St.  George,  so  often  alluded 
to  in  the  writings  of  the  Crusaders.  This 
building  was  erected  in  the  12th  century, 
and  afterward  overthrown  by  Saladin.  A 
part  of  the  walls  and  arches  remain,  over- 
grown with  creepers,  and  present  a  very 
picturesque  appearance,  hardly  in  keeping 
with  the  squalid  Arab  village  in  which  they 
stand. 

Jtamleh,  the  next  place  of  interest,  was 
conquered  by  the  Crusaders  in  1009.  but 
the  Saracens  regained  possession  under  Sal- 
adin in  1187.  Shortly  afterward  it  fell 
into  the  hands  of  Richard  Cojur  de  Lion, 
and  remained  in  the  possession  of  the  Chris- 
tians until  1266.  Modern  Ramleh  contains 
about  2000  inhabitants.  It  has,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  Convent  of  the  Latins,  one  be- 
longing to  the  Greeks,  and  one  to  the  Ar- 
menians. There  are  also  two  handsome 
Turkish  mosques,  one  of  which  contains  a 
fine  white  marble  tomb,  with  gilt  inscrip- 
tions, which  incloses  the  remains  of  Ayoub 
Bey,  a  Mameluke  who  fled  from  Egypt 
when  the  French  took  possession  of  that 
country. 

Between  Ramleh  and  Jerusalem  you 
pass  through  the  village  of  Abu  Gaush,  re- 
nowned as  the  residence  of  a  bandit  of  that 
name,  who  twenty  years  ago  spread  ter- 
ror through  the  surrounding  country.  The 
ancient  name  of  the  village  is  Kirgat-Jea- 
rhn.  where  the  ark  of  God  remained  until 
taken  by  David  to  Jerusalem. 

Four  or  five  miles  farther  on  certain 
writers  place  the  village  of  Emmaiis,  to- 
ward which  the  two  disciples  were  walking 
when  they  met  the  Lord.  For  a  lengthy 
description  of  the  country  through  which 
yon  pass  from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem,  see  Dr. 
Richardson's  works. 


JERUSALEM. 

We  now  come  in  sight  of  the  Holy  City. 
An  Italian  poet  describes  the  effect  pro- 
duced upon  the  Christian  army  in  the  fol- 
lowing beautiful  lines : 

"  Now  from  the  fiolden  east  the  zephyrs  born, 
Proclaimed  with  balmy  gales  the  approach  of 

morn; 

And  fair  Aurora  decked  her  radiant  head 
With  roses  cropped  from  Eden's  flowery  bed  ; 
When  from  the  sounding  camp  was  heard  afar 
The  noise  of  troops  preparing  for  the  war ; 


J   E  R  I 


Harpe* 


A  L  E  M 


x.     .-,      .s,i,,, 


.* 
r  7*o/« 

^PO.*. 
Silua*  <?" 


i  Book 


JERUSALEM. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


\  I. KM. 


To  this  succeed  tho  trumpets'  loud  alarm*, 
And  rouse,  with  shriller  notes,  the  host  to  arms. 
"  With  holy  zeal  their  swelling  hearts  abound, 
And  their  winged  footsteps  scarcely  touch  the 

ground. 

Wflen  n<nv  tho  sim  a-eond*  the  ethereal  way, 
And  strikes  the  dunty  field  with  warmer  ray, 
Behold,  Jerusalem  in  pr.>.-|><-et  lies! 
H-h.'U.-Ienisalem  salutes  their 

.  :  MiiKiies  repeat  the  name, 
&Bd  b*U' Jerusalem  with  loud  acclaim. 
At  first,  transported  with  the  pleasing  sight, 
Each  Christian  bosom  glowed  with  full  delight ; 
But  deep  contrition  soon  their  joy  suppressed, 
And  holy  sorrow  saddened  every  breast ; 
Scarce  dare  their  eyes  the  city  walls  survey. 
Where,  clothed  in  "flesh,  their  dear  Kedeem3r 

lay, 

Whose  sacred  earth  did  once  their  Lord  in- 
close, 
And  where  triumphant  from  the  grave  he  rose ! 

"  Each  flattering  tongue  imperfect  speech  sup- 
plies, 

Each  laboring  bosom  heaves  with  frequent 
signs, 

Kach  took  the  example  as  their  chieftains  led, 

With  nuked  feet  the  hallowed  soil  they  tread ; 

Kach  throws  his  martial  ornaments  aside, 

The  crested  helmets  with  their  pkimy  pride ; 

To  humble  thoughts  their  lofty  hearts  they 
bead, 

And  down  their  cheeks  the  pious  tears  de- 
scend." 

Much  depends  on  which  side  the  city  is 
approached  for  the  effect  it  may  have  on 
the  beholder  for  the  first  time.  If  coming 
from  Damascus,  the  sight  in  the  distance 
is  very  grand :  such,  however,  is  the  case 
with  nearly  all  Turkish  towns,  but  the  in- 
terior soon  dispels  the  romance.  If  enter- 
ed from  the  Jaffa  Road,  the  view  is  far  in- 
ferior ;  if  from  the  Bethlehem  side,  the  ef- 
fect is  still  different ;  this  accounts  for  the 
opposing  descriptions  given  of  it  by  differ- 
ent authors.  Then  the  influence  of  the 
weather,  the  season  of  the  year,  and  even 
the  time  of  the  day,  will  give  different  im- 
pressions to  different  travelers. 

The  author,  as  before  stated,  was  obliged 
to  go  to  Beyrout,  being  unable  to  land  at 
Jaffa,  owing  to  the  boisterous  weather, 
consequently  visited  Baalbec  and  Dumns- 
cus  first,  and  entered  from  that  side ;  his 
impression,  while  a!>out  three  miles  distant, 
agrees  with  Dr.  Clark,  who  says:  "We 
had  not  been  prepared  for  tho  grandeur  of 
the  spoi-tae1...'  which  tho  city  alone  present- 
ed. Instead  of  a  wretched  and  ruined 
tow",  by  some  described  as  tho  desolated 
remnant  of  Jerusalem,  we  behold,  as  it 
were,  a  flourishing  and  stately  metropolis, 
presenting  a  magnificent  assemblage  of 


domes,  towers  and  palaces,  churches  and 
monasteries,  all  of  which,  glittering  in  the 
sun's  rays,  shone  with  inconceivable  splen- 
dor. As  we  drew  nearer,  our  whole  atten- 
tion was  engrossed  by  its  noble  and  inter- 
csting  apjiearane  •.  The  lofty  bills  sur- 
rounding it  gave  the  city  an  appearance  of 
grandeur  less  than  it  really  lias. 

On  the  other  hand,  he  (the  author)  agrees 
with  the  celabrated  writer,  Sir  Frederick 
Henniker,  after  he  entered  the  city,  who 
says,  "  Jerusalem  is  called,  even  by  the 
Mohammedans,  '  the  Blessed  City.'  The 
streets  of  it  are  narrow  and  deserted ;  the 
houses  dirty  and  ragged;  the  shops  few  and 
forsaken  ;  and  throughout  the  whole  there 
is  not  one  symptom  of  either  commerce, 
comfort,  or  happiness.  Is  this  the  city  that 
men  call  the  Perfection  of  Beauty,  the  Joy 
of  the  whole  earth?  The  town,  which 
appears  to  me  not  worth  possession,  even 
without  the  trouble  of  conquest,  is  walled 
entirely  round,  is  about  a  mile  in  length 
and  half  a  mile  in  width,  so  that  its  cir- 
cumference may  be  estimated  at  three 
rnles.  In  three  quarters  of  an  hour  I  per- 
formed the  circuit.  It  would  be  difficult 
to  conceive  how  it  ever  could  have  been 
larger  than  it  now  is ;  for,  independent  of 
the  four  ravines,  the  four  outsides  of  the 
city  are  marked  by  the  brook  of  Siloam, 
by  a  burial-place  at  either  end,  and  by  the 
hill  of  Calvary,  and  the  hill  of  Calvary  is 
now  within  the  town,  so  that  it  was  for- 
merly smaller  than  it  is  at  present.  The 
best  view  of  it  is  from  the  Mount  of  Ol- 
ives. It  commands  the  best  shape,  and 
nearly  every  particular  portion,  namely, 
the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the  Ar- 
menian convent,  the  Mosque  of  Omar,  St. 

,  Stephen's  Gate,  the  round-topped  houses, 
and  the  barren  vacancies  of  the  city.  The 
Mosque  of  Omar  is  the  St.  Peter's  of  Tur- 
key. The  building  itself  has  a  light,  pa- 
goda appearance ;  the  garden  in  which  it 
stands  occupies  a  considerable  part  of  the 
city,  and,  contrasted  with  the  surrounding 
desert,  is  beautiful,  but  it  is  forbidden 
ground ;  and  Jew  or  Christian  entering 
within  its  precinct*  must,  if  discovered, 
forfeit  either  his  religion  or  his  life." 

Here  are  the  two  extremes.  We  will 
now  quote  from  Stanley's  "Sinai  and  Pal- 
estine," which,  according  to  the  author's 
idea,  comes  nearer  the  truth  than  any  oth* 

i  er  work  he  has  read  on  the  subject. 
957 


JERUSALEM. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JERUSALEM. 


"Jerusalem  is  one  of  the  few  places  of 
which  the  first  impression  is  not  the  best. 
No  doubt  the  first  sight  the  first  moment 
when,  from  the  ridge  of  the  hills  which  di- 
vides the  Valley  of  Rephaim  from  the  Val- 
ley of  Bethlehem,  one  sees  the  white  line 
crowning  the  horizon,  and  knows  that  it  is 
Jerusalem,  is  a  moment  never  to  be  forgot- 
ten.  But  there  is  nothing  in  the  view  it- 
self to  excite  your  feelings,  nor  is  there 
even  when  the  Mount  of  Olives  heaves  in 
sight,  nor  when  'the  horse's  hoofs  ring  on 
the  stones  of  the  streets  of  Jerusalem,'  nor 
is  there  in  the  surrounding  outline  of  hills 
on  the  distant  horizon. 

"Nebi-Samuel  is  indeed  a  high  and  dis- 
tinguished point,  and  Ramah  and  Gibeah 
both  stand  out;  but  they  and  all  of  the 
rest,  in  some  degree,  partake  of  that  fea- 
tureless character  which  belongs  to  all  the 
hills  of  Judca. 

"  In  one  respect,  no  one  need  quarrel 
with  his  first  aspect  of  Jerusalem.  So  far 
as  localities  have  any  concern  with  relig- 
ion, it  is  well  to  feel  that  Christianity,  even 
in  its  first  origin,  was  nurtured  in  no  ro- 
mantic scenery ;  that  the  discourses  in  the 
walks  to  and  from  Bethany,  and,  in  ear- 
lier times,  the  prophecies  of  David  and 
Isaiah,  were  not,  as  in  Greece,  the  off- 
springs of  oracular  cliffs  and  grottoes,  but 
the  simple  outpourings  of  souls  which 
thought  of  nothing  but  God  and  man.  It 
is  not,  however,  inconsistent  to  add  that, 
though  not  romantic  —  though,  at  first 
sight,  bare  and  prosaic  in  the  extreme —  I 
there  does  at  last  gow  up  about  Jerusa-  | 
lem  a  beauty  as  poetical  as  that  which  i 
hangs  over  Athens  and  Rome.  First,  it 
is  in  the  highest  degree  venerable.  Mod- 
ern houses,  it  is  true,  there  are ;  the  inte- 
rior of  the  streets  are  modern.  The  old 
city  itself  (and  I  felt  a  constant  satisfac- 
tion in  the  thought)  lies  buried  twenty, 
thirty,  forty  feet  below  those  wretched  j 
shops  and  receptacles  for  Anglo-Oriental  j 
conveniences.  But  still,  as  you  look  at 
it  from  any  commanding  point  within  or 
without  the  walls,  you  are  struck  by  the 
gray  ruinous  masses  of  which  it  is  made 
up.  It  is  the  ruin,  in  fact,  of  the  old  Je- 
rusalem on  which  you  look ;  the  stones, 
the  columns,  the  very  soil  on  which  you 
tread  is  the  accumulation  of  nearly  3000 
years ;  and  as  it  is  with  the  city,  so  it  is 
with  the  country  round  it.  There  is,  as  I 
968 


have  said,  no  heauty  of  form  or  outline,  but 
there  is  nothing  to  disturb  the  thought  of 
the  hoary  age  of  those  ancient  hills  ;  and 
the  interest  of  the  past,  even  to  the  hard- 
est mind,  will,  in  spite  of  themselves,  in- 
vest them  with  a  glory  of  their  own.  .  .  . 
"  There  is  one  approach  to  Jerusalem 
which  is  really  grand,  namely,  from  Jeri- 
cho and  Bethany.  It  is  thn  approach  by 
which  the  army  of  Poinpey  advanced— the 
first  European  army  that  every  confronted 
it — and  it  is  the  approach  of  ihc  triumphal 
entry  of  the  Gospels.  Probably  the  lirst 
impression  of  every  one  coming  from  the 
north,  west,  and  the  south  may  be  summed 
up  in  the  expression  used  by  one  of  the 
modern  travelers,  '  I  am  strangely  affect- 
ed, but  greatly  disappointed.'  But  no  hu- 
man being  could  be  disappointed  who  first 
saw  Jerusalem  from  the  east.  The  beautv 
consists  in  this,  that  you  then  burst  at  once 
on  the.  two  great  ravines  which  cut  the 
city  off  from  the  surrounding  table-land, 
and  that  then,  and  then  only,  you  have  a 
complete  view  of  the  Mosque  of  Omar. 
The  other  buildings  of  Jerusalem  which 
emerge  from  the  mass  of  gray  ruin  and 
white  stones  are  few,  and  for  the  most  part 
unattractive.  The  white  mass  of  the  Ar- 
menian Convent  on  the  south,  and  the 
dome  of  the  Mosque  of  David — the  Castle 
and  Herod's  tower  on  the  southwest  cor- 
ner— the  two  domes,  Mack  and  white,  which 
surmount  the  Holy  Sepulchre  and  the  Ba- 
silica of  Constantine — the  green  corn-field 
which  covers  the  ruins  of  the  Knights  of 
St.  John — the  long  yellow  mass  of  the  Lat- 
in Convent  at  the  northwest  corner,  and 
the  gray  tower  of  the  Mosque  of  the  Der- 
vishes on  the  traditional  site  of  the  palace 
ef  Herod  Antipas  in  the  northeast  corner 
— these  are  the  only  objects  which  break 
from  various  points  the  sloping  or  level 
lines  of  the  city  of  the  Crusaders  and  Sara- 
cens. But  none  of  these  is  enough  to  ele- 
vate its  character.  What,  however,  these 
fail  to  effect  is  in  one  instance  effected  by 
the  Mosque  of  Omar.  From  whatever 
point  that  graceful  dome,  with  its  beautiful 
precinct,  emerges  to  view,  it  at  once  digni- 
fies the  whole  city.  And  when  from  Oli- 
vet, or  from  the  governor's  house,  or  from 
the  northeast  wall,  you  see  the  platform 
on  which  it  stands,  it  is  a  scene  hardly  to 
be  surpassed — a  dome  graceful  as  that  of 
St.  Peter's,  though  of  course  on  a  far  small 


JERUSALEM. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JERUSALEM. 


er  scale,  rising  from  an  elaborately-finish- 
ed circular  edifice. 

"  This  edifice,  raised  on  a  square  marble 
platform,  rising  on  the  highest  side  of  a 
green  slope,  which  descends  from  it  north, 
south,  and  cast,  to  the  walls  surrounding 
the  whole  inclosure  —  platform  and  inclo- 
snre  diversified  by  lesser  domes  and  foun- 
tains, by  cypresses  and  olives,  and  plains, 
and  palms  —  the  whole  as  secluded  and 
quiet  as  the  interior  of  some  college  or 
Cathedral  garden,  only  enlivened  by  the 
white  figures  of  veiled  women  stealing  like 
ghosts  up  and  down  the  green  slope,  or  by 
the  turbaned  heads  bowed  low  in  the  va- 
rious niches  for  prayer — this  is  the  Mosque 
of  Omar:  Haram  es-Sherif,  'the  noble 
sanctuary,'  the  second  most  sacred  spot 
in  the  Mohammedan  world — that  is,  next 
after  Mecca ;  the  second  most  beautiful 
mosque — that  is,  next  after  Cordova.  .  .  . 
I,  for  one,  felt  almost  disposed  to  console 
myself  for  the  exclusion  by  the  additional 
interest  which  the  sight  derives  from  the 
knowledge  that  no  European  foot,  except 
by  stealth  or  favor,  had  ever  trodden  with- 
in these  precincts  since  the  Crusaders  were 
driven  out,  and  that  their  deep  seclusion 
was  as  real  as  it  appeared.  It  needed  no 
sight  of  the  daggers  of  the  black  Dervishes 
who  stand  at  the  gates  to  tell  you  that 
the  mosque  was  undisturbed  and  inviola- 
bly sacred. 

"  The  Mussulman  religion  acknowledges 
hut  two  temples — those,  namely,  of  Mecca 
and  Jerusalem  :  both  called  El  Harem ; 
both  formerly  prohibited  to  Christians, 
Jews,  and  even.-  other  person  who  is  not  a 
believer  in  the  Prophet.  The  mosques,  on 
the  other  hand,  are  considered  merely  as 
places  of  meeting  for  certain  acts  of  wor- 
ship, and  are  not  held  so  especially  conse- 
crated as  to  demand  the  total  exclusion  of 
all  who  do  not  profess  the  true  faith.  En- 
trance into  them  is  not  denied  to  the  tin- 
believer  by  any  statute  of  the  Mohamme- 
dan law.  and  hence  it  is  not  uncommon 
for  Christians  at  Constantinople  to  receive 
from  the  government  a  written  order  to 
vi^it  even  the  Mosque  of  St.  Sophia.  For- 
merly the  sultan  himself  could  not  grant 
permission  to  an  inlidel  either  to  pass  into 
the  territory  of  Mecca,  or  to  enter  the  sa- 
cred edifice  of  Jerusalem.  A  firman  grant- 
ing such  a  privilege  would  be  regarded  as 
a  most  horrid  sacrilege ;  it  would  not  be 


respected  by  the  people  ;  and  the  favored 
object  would  inevitably  become  the  victim 
of  his  own  imprudent  boldness." 


The   Haram  cch-Cfierif,  or  Sfosque  of 
Omar,  which   we   entered   December  29. 
959 


JERUSALEM 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JERUSALEM. 


1859,  is  situated  on  the  foundation-walls 
of  Solomon's  Temple.  It  has  been,  since 
the  time  of  David,  considered  the  most  sa- 
cred ground  in  Jerusalem.  Here  the  foun- 
dation-walls of  Solomon's  Tern  pie  were  laid 
over  1000  years  before  Christ ;  here  we  ! 
stand  on  the  threshing-floor  for  which  Da-  j 
vid  gave  the  fifty  shekels  of  silver;  here  is  j 
the  Holy  of  Holies,  Mount  Moriah !  The  j 
whole  inclosure  is  1500  feet  long  by  1000  ! 
broad,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  the  rock 
Es-Sukhrah.  On  first  entering  we  found 
ourselves  on  a  vast  platform,  planted  with  j 
cypress  and  palm-trees,  and  surrounded  by 
a  high  wall.  In  the  centre  is  the  mosque, 
or  Konbet  es-Sukrah,  the  cupola  of  the 
rock,  ebvatad  on  another  rectangular  plat- 
form, with  steps  on  all  sides  to  enter. 
Around  this  second  platform  are  several 
little  chapels  or  oratories  surmounted  by 
cupolas.  Before  entering  the  mosque  shoes 
must  be  replaced  by  slippers,  or  the  feet  in 
some  way  covered,  so  as  not  to  profane  the 
holy  ground.  The  Moslems  generally  en- 
ter in  stocking-feet.  The  building  is  a 
regular  octagon,  about  60  feet  each  side, 
supporting  a  beautiful  dome.  It  is  entered 
by  four  spacious  doors,  which  project  from 
the  building,  and  rise  considerably  on  the 
wall.  The  sides  are  all  beautifully  pan- 
eled, square  and  octagonal  alternating ; 
the  materials  marble,  white  and  blue. 
Around  the  first  story  there  are  seven  ele- 
gant windows  on  each  side  of  the  octagon, 
except  where  the  entrances  interfere ;  on 
that  side  there  are  only  six. 

The  interior  is  most  magnificent.  In 
the  centre  lies  a  large  irregular  stone 
nearly  50  feet  in  diameter,  surrounded  by 
a  beautiful  iron  railing.  Over  the  whole 
is  suspended  a  canopy  of  various-colored 
silks,  but  so  covered  with  dust  it  was  im- 
possible to  define  the  color.  To  this  stone 
this  gorgeous  temple  owes  its  existence. 
It  rises  about  five  feet  above  the  marble 
floor,  and  the  floor  is  about  twelve  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  inclosure.  It  is  in 
itself  the  highest  top  of  Mount  Moriah. 
Before  the  rule  of  the  Mohammedan  the 
Christian  regarded  it  as  the  Holy  of  Holies. 
By  the  Mussulman  it  is  believed  to  be  a 
stone  of  prophecy,  and  to  have  fallen  from 
heaven.  When  the  prophets  were  com-  i 
polled  to  flee  away  for  safety  to  other  lands, 
the  stone  expressed  a  desire  to  accompany 
them  but  the  angel  Gabriel  seized  it  with 
960 


his  mighty  hand  and  intercepted  its  flight 
until  Mohammed  arrived,  who  fixed  it  eter- 
nally on  its  present  site.  The  proof  is 
here  indelibly  fixed  in  the  rock,  namely, 
the  print  of  the  Prophet's  foot  as  lie  mount- 
ed for  heaven,  and  the  print  of  the  arch- 
angel's hand  when  he  prevented  the  flight 
of  the  stone !  Around  the  stone  are  24 
pillars,  three  opposite  each  side,  thereby 
still  preserving  the  octagonal  shape ;  eight 
are  plain  and  sixteen  Corinthian.  The 
windows  above  are  beautifully  stained. 
Underneath  the  rock  is  the  cave  where 
Mohammed  rested  after  his  flight  from 
Mecca  to  Jerusalem,  which  journey  he  ac- 
complished in  a  single  night.  It  is  be- 
lieved by  the  Mussulman  that  the  walls 
under  the  rock  do  not  sustain  it ;  that,  as 
it  was  flying  after  Mohammed,  he  com- 
manded it  to  stop,  which  it  did,  in  the  air. 
The  walls  are  only  in  case  of  accident ! 
The  cave  is  about  18  feet  square.  It  con- 
tains on  one  side  the  place  of  David,  on  an- 
other the  place  of  Solomon  ;  place  of  Ga- 
briel and  place  of  Elias  on  the  other  two 
sides. 

In  this  cave  every  prayer  is  supposed  to 
be  granted.  Underneath  the  cave  is  an 
immense  well,  which  the  Mohammedan  be- 
lieves contains  all  the  souls  of  the  depart- 
ed, where  they  are  supposed  to  wait  until 
the  resurrection.  Mr.  Stanley  says  :  "  The 
belief  was  that  the  living  could  hold  con- 
verse with  these  souls  at  the  mouth  of  the 
well  about  any  disputed  matter  which  lay 
in  the  power  of  the  dead  to  solve.  It  was 
closed  because  a  mother,  going  to  speak  to 
her  dead  son,  was  so  much  agitated  at  the 
sound  of  his  voice  from  below  that  she 
threw  herself  into  the  well  to  join  him,  and 
disappeared."  It  is  believed  that  this  well 
is  the  spring  from  which  not  only  the  nu- 
merous fountains  of  the  mosque  receive 
their  supply  of  water,  but  also  the  two 
pools  of  Siloam. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  cupolas 
in  the  Haram  is  Kubbet  e»-Silsileh,  or  the 
"Dome  of  the  Chain,'1  sometimes  called 
the  Dome  of  Judgment,  where,  according 
to  Moslem  tradition,  King  David  held  his 
tribunal,  or  where,  according  to  others,  the 
balance  of  justice  will  be  suspended  on  the 
Judgment  Day. 

Within  the  same  inclosure  is  the  Mosque 
of  El-Aksa.  It  is  of  a  square  shape,  and 
has  a  spherical  cupola.  It  was  a  church 


JERUSALEM. 


TSYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JERUSALEM. 


in  the  Christian  days  of  the  Holy  City,  and 
was  called  the  Church  of  the  Purification, 
meaning  the  Church  of  the  Virgin  Mary. 
It  is  ornamented  with  marble  floors,  ara- 
besque paintings,  and  gildings  of  great 
beauty.  The  principal  objects  of  rever- 
ence pointed  out  to  the  traveler  are  the 
•'  Tombs  of  the  Sons  of  Aaron,"  and  the 
"  Footprints  of  Christ ;"  also  the  "  Pillars  ' 
of  Proof,"  two  columns  standing  side  by 
side,  with  but  a  narrow  space  separating 
them,  through  which  a  virtuous  man  may 
pass  with  ease,  but  for  a  liar  or  a  wicked 
man  it  becomes  an  impossibility,  no  matter  j 
how  slight  he  may  be.  The  same  thing 
may  be  seen  at  the  Mosque  of  Amrou,  in 
Cairo.  Between  the  Mosques  of  El-Sak- 
kara  and  El-Aksa  there  is  a  beautiful  foun- 
tain, called  the  Orange  Fountain,  from  a 
grove  of  orange-trees  that  grow  near;  it  ' 
is  used  for  ablutions  by  the  true  believer.  ; 
On  the  eastern  wall  of  the  Haram  is  the 
Golden  Gate,  where  Christ  is  said  to  have 
made  his  triumphal  entry  into  Jerusalem. 

Our  limits  preventing  a  more  lengthy 
description,  we  refer  our  readers,  for  mi- 
nute descriptions  of  these  mosques  and 
other  objects  of  interest,  to  Dr.  Robinson's 
"  Biblical  Researches,"  who,  in  return  for 
the  successful  exercise  of  his  professional 
s kill,  was  rewarded  by  a  clandestine  visit  • 
to  the  shrine  of  the  Mussulman  saint. 

Jerusalem  at  the  present  time  contains 
about  14,000  inhabitants,  6000  of  whom 
are  Jews,  5000  Mohammedans,  the  balance 
''hristians  of  various  denominations,  the 
Greeks  predominating. 

There  is  but  one  hotel  in  Jerusalem  wor- 
th}' of  the  name,  viz.,  the  Mediterranean, 
within  a  few  doors  of  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre,  although  there  are  one  j 
or  two  other  places  where  they  pretend  to 
"•ife/>"  you.  Price  about  $2  50  per  day. 

The  Holy  places  of  Palestine  are  eleven 
in  number,  the  possession  of  which  by  the 
different  sects  of  Christians  and  Mussul- 
mans has  been  the  cause  of  many  deplora- 
ble catastrophes,  and  will  be  of  many  more. 
It  overthrew  the  Byzantine  empire,  rent 
Christendom  asunder,  and  was  the  origin 
of  the  Crimean  War.  This  jealousy  is  car- 
ried to  such  an  extent  in  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre  to-day  that  they  bribe  the 
Turks  to  oppress  each  other;  and  were  it 
not  that  a  Turkish  guard  is  always  pres- 
ent in  the  church,  which  is  common  to  all 


Christians,  they  would  tear  one  another  to 
pieces ! 

The  holy  places  are,  1.  The  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  which  covers  some 
twelve  or  thirteen  places  consecrated  to 
more  than  ordinary  veneration  by  being 
in  some  way  connected  with  the  death  and 
resurrection  of  the  Savior:  this  is  com- 
mon to  all  Christians.  2.  The  Church  of 
the  Xativity  at  Bethlehem,  which  is  like- 
wise common.  3.  The  Church  of  the  Pre- 
sentation at  Jerusalem — Mohammedan.  4. 
The  Church  of  the  Annunciation  at  Naza- 
reth— Latin  Christians.  5.  The  Church  of 
St.  Peter  at  Tiberias— Latin.  6.  Church 
at  Cana  in  Galilee — Greek  Christians.  7. 
Church  of  the  Flagellation  at  Jerusalem — 
Latin.  8.  Church  of  the  Ascension,  Mt. 
Olivet  —  Mohammedan.  9.  Tomb  of  the 
Virgin,  valley  of  Jehoshaphat — common. 
10.  Grotto  of  Gethsemane  —  Latin.  11. 
Church  of  the  Apostles — Mohammedan. 

Among  these  the  most  remarkable  is  the 
Church  (fthe  Holy  Sepulchre,  situated  in  the 
southwest  corner  of  the  city,  on  a  sloping 
hill  known  as  Acra. 

This  church,  it  is  pretended,  not  only 
covers  the  site  of  Calvary,  and  the  tombs 
of  Joseph  and  Nicodemus,  but  also  the 
place  where  the  Savior  appeared  to  Mary 
his  mother  after  the  resurrection ;  where 
Constantino's  mother  found  the  true  cross; 
where  the  angel  appeared;  where  the  Sav- 
ior appeared  to  Mary  Magdalen ;  and  nu- 
merous other  important  places.  Some 
writers  deny  the  correctness  of  the  local- 
ities; among  others.  Dr.  Robinson  —  see 
"Biblical  Researches;"  see  also  "Tent 
Life  in  the  Holy  Land,"  where  Mr.  Prime, 
in  a  most  able  manner,  endeavors  to  prove 
the  correctness  of  the  locality. 

The  accompanying  "Ground-plan  of  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre"  gives  the 
position  of  the  different  "sacred  places." 


REFERENCES. 


1.  Principal  door. 

2.  Place    for    Turkish 

guard?. 


11. 


li. 


3.  ?tone  of  unction. 

4.  Tomb  of  Godfrey. 

5.  Tomb  of  H.-ildwin. 

6.  Tomb   of  Melchisc-  13. 

di-k.  14. 

7.  Chapel  of  Adam  nnd  15. 

of  .Inhn  Jiaptist.    |16. 

8.  Tomb  of  Adam. 

t».  KMbinu'-riHim-i.  17. 

10.  Armenian  altar. 


Place  where  the  Vir- 
gin Mary's  body 
was  anointed. 

Stairway  to  Armen- 
ian chapel  and 
lodging. 

Chapel  of  the  Angel. 

The  Holy  Sepulchre. 

.\lt;ir  of  the  Copts. 

Altar  of  the  Syri- 
an.-'. 

Tombs  of  Joseph  and 
Nicodemus. 
961 


JERUSALEM. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JERUSALEM. 


IS.  The   arch   entrance  33.  Place  of  recognition 
to  cvntral    Greek  i>fthe< 

chapel.  :>4.  Latin  robing-room. 


19.  Greek    u  centre    of  8J>.  1'lace      of    Christ's 

worl.l."  bonds. 

20.  Monks'  stall?.  Chapel  oftheVirgin. 
•Jl,    •-'.'.     Greek     I'atri-  37.  Chapel  of  Longinus 

arch's  seat.  the  Centurion. 


Holy  Sepulchre,  surrounded  by  Ifi  large  col- 
umns, which  support  the  gallery  aliove. 
The  Sepulchre  is  a  small  building  contain- 


ing two  chambers,  built  or  incased  with 
tine  marble;  you  are  expected  to  remove 

__  your  shoes  previous  to  entering:  the  out- 

23.  Place  of  the' paint-'3S.  Chapel    of   parting  ;  er  chamber  is  about  6  feet  by  10,  in  the 
tlie  garments.^    ,  middle  of  which  stands  a  block  of  polished 

2,-V  Holy  Table. 


39.  Chapel  of  the  mock- 


iug. 
.  Great      throne      of  40.  Stairs  in  solid  rock 


Greek  Patriarch. 
•J7.  V.  here    Christ     ap- 


down     4'J 


»K«,,«.  „<•„».    ,,,1     u  it 
stone,  about  a  foot  and  a  half  square,  where 


steps. 


peared    to    Mary  41.  Chapel  of  St.  llele- 


Magdalene    aa 

gardener. 

2-s.  \Vhere  M.  M.  stood.; 
'JO.  Altar  of  Franks. 
30.  Part  of  the  pillar  of 

flagellation. 


142.  Chapel  of  Penitent 
Thief. 


4t.  Chapel  of  the  find- 


31.  Church  of  the  Lat-  lug  of  the.  Cross. 

ins.  4.r>.  Altar  of  Franks. 

'J->.  Where    Christ    ap-  40.  Latin     and     Greek 


peared  to  his  in»- 
ther  after  resur-j 
rection. 


stairs  to  Calvary, 
winch  is  over  the 
figures  7.  •>. 


We  first  enter  into  a  long  passage  through 
a  low  doorway,  built  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  Turks  can  not  profane  the  place  by  rid- 


the  angel  sat  who  announced  the  glad  tid- 
ings of  the  Resurrection.  Through  another 
passage  you  enter  the  tomb  itself:  wheth- 
er this  be  or  be  not  the  genuine  tomb — and 
we  see  no  reason  to  doubt  it,  answering  as 
it  does  in  even'  particular  the  description 
given  it  in  Holy  Writ — it  is  impossible  to 
enter  it  without  a  feeling  of  holy  awe  and 
reverence,  remembering  that  for  1500  years 
kings  and  queens,  knights  and  holy  pil- 
grims, here  havo  knelt  and  prayed,  believ- 
ing it  to  be  the  identical  spot  "  where 
Christ  triumphed  over  the  grave,  and  dis- 
armed death  of  his  terrors."  This  is  the 
spot  pointed  out  to  the  mother  of  Constan- 
tino by  the  persecuted  Christians,  and  here 


ing  in  on  horseback.  In  this  passage,  and  j  she  erected  a  church  ;  here  the  Latin  kings, 
in  the  square  court  into  which  it  leads,  we  Godfrey  and  Baldwin,  with  countless  num- 
find  a  throng  of  buyers  and  sellers  of  rel-  bers  of  knights  who  have  died  for  the  Holy 
ics,  to  be  carried  by  pilgrims  to  all  parts  j  Cross,  have  knelt  and  prayed.  Who  would 


of  the  world — beads  of  all  descriptions, 
olive-wood  paper-cutters,  mother-of-pearl 
crucifixes,  and  images  of  every  degree  of 
workmanship. 

The  church  is  surmounted  by  two  domes 
of  different  dimensions,  the  larger  sur- 
mounting the  chapel  of  the  Holy  Sepul- 
chre, the  smaller  the  Greek  church  on  the 
site  of  the  Basilica  erected  by  Constantino 
in  the  fourth  century. 

Close  beside  the  dome  stands  the  Mina- 
ret of  Omar,  which  that  magnanimous  ca- 
liph erected  that  he  might  have  the  priv- 
ilege of  praying  as  nearly  as  possible  to 
the  Church  without  interfering  with  the 
rights  of  the  Christians.  As  you  enter 
the  door  of  these  sacred  walls,  the  first  ob- 


not  reverence  the  spot  I  The  tomb  is  about 
six  feet  square:  one  half  of  it  is  occupied 
by  the  sarcophagus,  which  rises  about  two 
feet  from  the  floor:  this  is  of  white  marble, 
slightly  tinged  with  blue;  that  is,  this  slab 
covers  the  elevation  left  in  the  hewing  of 
the  rock,  which  was  the  custom  in  those 
days.  The  marble  is  now  cracked  through 
about  the  centre :  on  this  stone  the  body 
of  Christ  was  laid;  on  this  stone  the  young 
man  was  found  sitting;  and  here  Mary 
saw  the  two  angels.  There  are  42  lamps, 
gold  and  silver,  presented  by  sovereigns 
of  Europe,  suspended  above  it,  and  contin- 
ually burning.  A  space  about  three  feet 
wide  in  front  is  all  that  remains  for  visit- 
ors, and  not  more  than  three  or  four  per- 


ject  that  strikes  your  attention  is  a  large  I  sons  can  enter  at  a  time.  At  the  head  of 
flat  stone,  over  which  several  lamps  are  J  the  tomb  stands  a  Greek  monk  reading 
suspended,  and  numerous  pilgrims  ap-1  prayers;  if  presented  with  a  fee,  he  lights 
preaching  on  tlieir  knees  to  kiss  it.  This  candles  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  fee. 


is  called  the  Stone  of  Unction,  where  the 
Lord's  Iwdy  was  anointed  before  burial  by 
the  holy  women.  A  few  yards  off  is  a  cir- 
cular stone,  marking  the  spot  where  the 


Here  continually  may  lie  seen  poor  pilgrims 
crawling  in  upon  their  bended  knees, 
bathing  the  cold  marble  with  their  tears, 
and  sobbing  as  if  their  hearts  would  break. 


Virgin  Mary  stood  during  the  anointment.  |       The  church  is  occupied  by  different  sects 
Immediate! v  under  the  dome  stands  the  (•of  Christians — Latins,  Greeks,  Armenians, 

963 


JERUSALEM. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JERUSALEM. 


Copts,  and  Syrians — all  of  whom  have 
their  respective  chapels  and  altars ;  the 
Greeks  the  richest,  the  Syrians  the  poorest 
of  the  -whole. 

On  the  western  side  of  the  Rotunda,  or 
Holy  Sepulchre,  are  shown  the  tombs  of 
Joseph  of  Aiimathea  and  Nicodemus.  The 
antiquity  of  these  tombs  is  evident,  but 
there  is  no  historical  proof  of  then*  being 
the  tombs  of  these  disciples. 

On  the  left  of  the  Rotunda,  the  place 
where  Jesus  appeared  to  Mary  Magdalene 
is  marked  by  a  circular  marble  stone,  and 
a  star  a  few  yards  off  shows  the  spot  where 
Mary  stood.  Mounting,  we  enter  the  Lat- 
in Chapel  of  the  Apparition,  where  Christ 
appeared  to  his  mother  after  his  resurrec- 
tion. In  this  chapel  is  kept  a  portion  of 
the  column  of  Flagellation,  to  which  Christ 
was  bound  when  scourged  by  order  of  Pi- 
late. It  is  covered  over,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  small  hole  through  which  a  stick 
is  thrust  and  then  kissed  by  pilgrims.  In 
this  chapel  the  ceremony  of  investing  with 
the  order  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem  is  per- 
formed by  girding  the  candidate  with  the 
sword  and  spurs  of  Godfrey  de  Bouillon. 
We  next  enter  the  Greek  Chapel  of  the 
Prison,  where  Christ  was  confined  before 
his  crucifixion.  Behind  the  Greek  church 
is  the  Chapel  of  Jjmginm,  the  soldier  who 
pierced  the  Saviour's  side,  and  next  to  this  | 
the  Chapel  of  the  Vestments,  built  over  the  ! 
spot  where  the  soldiers  divided  the  rai-  j 
incuts  of  Christ. 

Descending  a  flight  of  28  steps,  we  en- 
ter the  Chapel  of  St.  Helena,  belonging  to 
the  Armenians.  It  is  partly  hewn  in  the 
rock,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  cupola  pierced 
with  four  windows.  This  cupola  is  sup- 
ported by  four  massive  columns  with  Co-  I 
rinthian  capitals.  There  is  here  an  altar  j 
dedicated  to  St.  Helena,  and  one  to  the  j 
penitent  thief.  In  the  southeast  ani_rle  is 
shown  the  chair  where  St.  Helena  sat 
watching  from  a  small  window  the  search 
for  the  true  cross.  Descending  another 
flight  of  steps,  we  enter  the  Chapel  of  the 
Invention  of  the  Cross,  belonging  to  the  Lat- 
ins, where  the  three  crosses  were  discover- 
ed. Remounting  the  staircase,  and  pass- 
ing the  Greek  Chapel  of  the  Mocking,  where 
Christ  was  crowned  with  thorns,  we  enter 
the  south  transept,  and,  mounting  a  flight 
of  18  steps,  reach 

CALVARY,  a  square  platform,  divided* 
961 


into  two  chapels  of  the  CRUCIFIXION  and 
of  the  Elevation  of  the  Cross.  The  for- 
mer, belonging  to  the  Latins,  is  supposed 
to  be  the  spot  where  Christ  was  nailed  to 
the  cross  ;  and  the  latter,  belonging  to  the 
Greeks,  is  the  place  where  the  cross  stood. 
In  the  eastern  end  of  this  chapel  stands  the 
altar,  underneath  which  is  a  hole  in  the 
marble  corresponding  to  one  in  the  rock 
below  where  the  cross  stood;  and  on  the 
right  is  another  hole,  through  which  the 
hand  may  be  passed,  and  the  fissure  felt  in 
the  rock,  which  was  caused  by  the  earth- 
quake during  the  Crucifixion. 

Descending  from  Calvary  by  the  Lat- 
in staircase,  we  find  near  the  door  of  the 
church  the  Chapel  of  Adam,  which  contain- 
ed the  tombs  of  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  and 
his  brother  Baldwin,  said  to  have  been  de- 
stroyed by  the  Greeks  because  they  com- 
memorated the  prior  rights  of  their  rivals. 
Re-entering  the  church,  opposite  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  stands  the  Greek  Chapel,  the 
richest  which  the  church  contains.  In  the 
centre  is  a  globe  which  indicates  to  the 
faithful  the  centre  of  the  earth. 

It  would  require  a  volume  to  give  a  de- 
tailed description  of  the  different  altars  and 
chapels ;  the  ceremonies  of  the  different 
sects,  often  worshiping  at  the  same  time, 
and  creating  a  frightful  hubbub  —  the 
priests,  pilgrims,  and  beggars  jostling  each 
other  on  every  side ;  also  the  infamous  im- 
posture of  the  descent  of  the  holy  fire  from 
heaven.  Are  not  all  these  full}-  described 
by  Porter,  Robinson,  Hardy,  and  Prime  ? 

The  author  of  "Notices  of  the  Holy 
Land,''  speaking  of  the  ceremony  of  the 
Holy  Fire  at  Easter,  says,  ';  I  have  seen 
the  devil-dancers,  apparently  under  Satan- 
ic influence,  and  the  Mussulman  devotees 
shout  round  their  fires  at  the  feast  of  Hus- 
sein Hassan,  but  I  never  witnessed  an}-  ex- 
hibition that  excited  in  my  mind  feelings 
of  deeper  disgust,  and  this,  too,  in  the  name 
of  Christ,  and  in  a  place  probably  not  far 
distant  from  the  sacred  spot  where  he  bow- 
ed his  head  and  died." 

The  other  most  noted  objects  of  interest 
in  Jerusalem  are,  first,  the  Cccnaculum.  It 
is  situated  on  the  Hill  of  Zion,  and  its  min- 
aret is  one  of  the  first  objects  that  strikes 
the  traveler's  eye  on  his  approach  to  the 
city  from  the  south.  It  rises  over  what 
purports  to  be  the  tomb  of  David.  In  the 
building  is  a  large  room  in  which  it  is  said 


JERUSALEM. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JERUSALEM. 


not  only  the  Last  Supper  was  eaten,  hut 
•where  Christ  appeared  to  the  apostles  aft- 
er the  Resurrection,  and  where  the  Holy 
Ghost  descended  upon  the  apostles  on  the 
Day  of  Pentecost.  The  marble  upon  which 
Christ  supped  is  still  preserved.  The  place 
is  now  in  possession  of  the  Turks,  who  con- 
sider David  one  of  their  prophets.  The 
Latin  Christians  arc  allowed  to  worship 
there  occasionally,  and  celebrate  the  wash- 
ing of  pilgrims'  feet.  The  site  of  the  Vir- 
gin's residence,  and  where  she  died,  lies  a 
little  north  of  this. 

The  Armenian  Convent  close  by  is  said 
to  be  the  town-house  of  the  High-priest 
Caiaphas :  two  relics  are  shown  here,  viz., 
the  stone  which  closed  the  door  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  and  which  the  Latins  accuse 
the  Armenians  of  stealing,  and  the  stone 
on  which  the  cock  crew  when  Peter  denied 
hjs  master !  The  convent  is  the  largest 
and  linest  in  the  city,  and  with  its  church 
and  gardens  occupy  a  very  "large  space. 
They  often  accommodate  over  three  thou- 
sand pilgrims.  There  is  a  college  for  the 
education  of  the  clergy  connected  with  it. 
In  their  church  there  is  a  chair  which  they 
claim  to  be  that  of  St.  James.  There  is 
also  a  Greek,  Latin,  and  Syrian  convent, 
which  are  the  principal  ones  in  and  around 
Jerusalem. 

The  Convent  of  the,  Cross  is  a  fine  build- 
ing, about  li  miles  west  of  the  city.  The 
tree  from  which  the  cross  was  cut  i<  said 
to  have  grown  here,  and  has  given  its  name 
to  the  convent.  It  now  belongs  to  the 
Russians,  who  have  greatly  enlarged  and 
beautified  it  during  the  past  few  years. 
He-ides  the  old  church,  there  is  a  tine  new 
chajwl.  Forty  young  men  are  educated  in 
this  convent  for  a  term  of  seven  years,  and 
the  class-rooms,  refectory,  and  dormitories 
equal  any  establishment  of  the  kind  in  Eu- 
rope. 

The  Jars'  Wailing-place  is  a  small  area 
on  the  west  of  the.  wall,  which  forms  the 
foundation  of  the  Mosque  of  Omar  inclo- 
Bure,  and  the  only  portion  visible  from  the 
outside  of  the  foundation  walls  of  Solo- 
mon's Temple.  Here  the  Jews  of  all  ages, 
male  and  female,  congregate  every  Friday 
to  cry  and  lament  over  the  destruction  of 
the  Temple.  The  stones  are  worn  smooth 
with  their  kisses:  it  is  a  most  affecting 
scene.  A  little  south  of  this.  Dr.  Barclay, 
»f  Philadelphia,  pointed  out  to  us  a  por- 
VOL.  II.— T 


tion  of  one  of  the  arches  which  formed  the 
bridge  that  connected  Solomon's  palace  on 
Mount  Zion  with  the  Temple  on  Mount 
Moriah. 

East  of  the  city  lies  the  Valley  ofJehosh- 
aphat,  the  burial-place  of  the  Jews,  who 
come  from  all  parts  of  the  world  to  die  in  Je- 
ni.-alcm.  The  brook  Kcdron  runs  through 
the  valley,  that  is.  when  it  runs,  which  is  but 
a  short  season  every  year ;  its  bed  is  dry  a 
large  portion  of  the  year. 

The  Fountain  of  the  Virgin  is  situated  on 
the  side  of  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  a 
short  distance  below  the  southeast  corner 
of  the  city  walls.  The  fountain  is  situated 
at  the  bottom  of  an  excavation  in  the  rock, 
and  is  entered  by  descending  a  flight  of 
thirty  steps.  The  quantity  of  water  in- 
creases and  decreases  most  rapidly  at  cer- 
tain hours  of  the  day ;  but  this  supposed 
phenomenon  has  been  latterly  explained 
by  the  discovery  of  a  subterranean  passage 
by  Dr.  Robinson,  connecting  it  with  the 
Pool  of  Siioam.  In  this  fountain  the  Vir- 
gin is  said  to  have  washed  the  Savior's 
linen  as  a  child.  According  to  tradition, 
the  drinking  of  the.  water  of  this  fountain 
was  a  test  whether  a  woman  was  innocent 
or  guilty  of  adultery;  if  guilty,  after  drink- 
ing she  immediately  died.  When  the  Vir- 
gin Mary  was  accused,  she  established  her 
innocence  in  this  manner.  The  celebrated 
Pool  of  Siioam  is  situated  about  one  thou- 
sand feet  farther  down  the  Kedron,  beside 
the  King's  Garden,  but  the  passage  con- 
necting it  with  the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin 
hiding  and  intricate  that  it  mea-un  s 
1750  feet  in  length.  This  pool  is  consider- 
ed by  many  to  be  the  Hethrsda,  where  the 
impotent  man  was  cured  by  our  Lord. 

Immediately  opposite  the  St.  Stephen's 
Gate,  on  the  east  of  the  c-itv.  in  the  bottom 
of  the  valley,  lies  the  Tomb  antl  Ch'iptl  fifths 
Virrjin.  On  the  right,  going  down  to  it,  is 
the  spot  where  it  is  supposed  St.  Stephen 
suffered  martyrdom  :  a  red  vein  that  runs 
through  the  white  limestone  at  this  point 
is  believed  to  be  his  blood.  The  Tomb  and 
Chapel  of  the  Virgin  is  one  of  the  mo-t 
ancient-looking  buildings  in  the  vicinity 
of  Jerusalem.  This  is  the  spot  where  the 
Virgin  lay  after  her  death,  and  where,  ac- 
cording to  the  Church  of  Rome,  the  event 
of  the  Assumption  took  place.  The  tomb 
appears  to  be  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock. 
You  descend  to  the  chapel  bj  a  great  num- 
965 


JERUSALEM. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JERUSALEM. 


her  of  steps.  The  burial-places  of  the  life  of  our  Lord.  Here  dwelt  Mary,  Mar- 
father,  mother,  and  husband  of  the  Virgin  tha,  and  Lazarus  ;  here  Mary  Magdalene 
are  also  shown  here.  This  chapel  is  used  washed  the  Savior's  feet  and  anointed 
in  common  by  Greeks,  Latins,  and  Ar-  them  with  the  precious  ointment ;  and 
menians.  Should  the  door  be  locked,  the  from  here  he  started  on  Palm  Sunday  to 
Latin  monk  who  keeps  the  Garden  of  make  his  triumphal  entrance  into  Jerusa- 
Gethsemane  close  by  will  give  you  access,  lem.  The  tomb  of  Lazarus  stands  in  the 
Quite  close  to  the  Tomb  of  the  Virgin  middle  of  the  village,  and  is  entered  by  a 
is  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane,  or  a  portion  dark  and  narrow  staircase.  It  was  trans- 
of  the  same,  inclosed  by  a  high  wall.  !  visited;  and  by  no  means  forget  to  examine 
Here  is  supposed  to  be  the  spot  where  our  j  formed  into  a  chapel  during  the  time  of  the 
Savior  suffered  the  "agony  and  bloody  Crusades.  The  houses  of  Mary,  and  Mar- 
sweat,"  and  where  Judas  betrayed  him  !  tha,  and  Simon  the  Leper  should  also  be 
with  a  kiss.  The  wall  incloses  eight  ven-  the  identical  fig-tree  which  Jesus  cursed 
erable  olive-trees,  the  largest  and  oldest-  I  when  pointed  out  by  the  guide, 
looking  on  the  brow  of  the  hill.  The  gar-  The  tombs  and  sepulchres  situated  in 
den  is  in  possession  of  the  Latin  Christians  ;  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  and  in  the  val- 
but  the  Greeks  are  inclosing  an  opposition  j  ley  to  the  southwest  and  west  of  Mount 
garden  on  the  other  side  of  the  road.  The  j  Zion,  are  very  numerous.  They  are  all 
monk  in  attendance,  after  pointing  out  the  excavated  in  the  solid  rock,  each  of  them 
impressions  of  the  apostles'  bodies  on  the  |  containing  one  or  more  repositories  for  the 
rock,  the  grotto  of  the  Agony,  and  the  spot  dead,  carved  in  the  side  of  the  tomb.  The 
where  Judas  kissed  his  Master, -will  expect  principal  of  these  are  the  Tombs  of  the 
about  two  francs  backsheesh  from  the  party.  Kings  (these  are  quite  extensive),  Tombs 
Proceeding  up  the  hill,  we  arrive  at  a  small  of  the  Prophets,  Tombs  of  the  Judges, 
village  of  Tur,  situated  on  the  top  of  the  \  Tomb  of  Zacharias,  Tomb  of  Absalom. 
Mount  of  Olives.  This  village  occupies  the  This  last  is  ornamented  with  24  semi- 
site  of  the  church  erected  by  Helena,  moth- i  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  six  of  which 


er  of  Constantine,  to  mark  the  spot  of  the 
Ascension,  although  the  Ascension  could 
not  take  place  here,  as  St. Luke  says, "He 
led  them  out  as  far  as  Bethany,"  which  is 
two  miles  farther  east.  In  the  centre  of 
the  small  village  is  a  domed  sepulchre, 


are  on  each  front  of  a  prodigious  monu- 
ment of  a  single  stone.  It  is  completely 
surrounded  by  small  stones  to  a  considera- 
ble depth,  thrown  by  the  Jews  from  time 
immemorial,  to  show  their  contempt  for 
his  conduct.  There  are  also  in  the  vicini- 


surrounded  by  numerous  smaller  Moslem  !  ty  of  the  last  the  Tombs  of  Jehoshaphat 
tombs.  This  is  under  the  guardianship  of  and  St.  James. 

a  Dervish.  Backsheesh,  of  course,  is  ex-  I  Returning  to  the  city  through  St.  Ste- 
pected  after  he  has  shown  you  the  print  of  phen's  Gate,  on  the  left  hand  are  the  re- 
the  Savior's  foot  in  the  rock  from  whence  mains  of  the  PoolofBethesda,  360  feet  long, 


he  made  the  Ascension.  There  were  orig- 
inally two  prints,  but  the  Moslems  stole  one 
of  them  !  That's  as  bad  as  crawling  into  a 
hole  and  taking  it  in  after  you.  All  writers 
on  the  subject  universally  agree  that  from 
this  spot  the  best  view  of  the  Holy  City  can 
be  obtained.  Try  and  view  the  city  from 
here  at  sunrise. 

It  is  but  a  short  walk  from  here  to  Beth- 
any, which  you  may  either  visit  now,  or 


130  wide,  and  75  deep.  The  street  that 
leads  up  to  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sep- 
ulchre is  called  the  Via  Dolorosa,  and  is 
represented  by  your  guide  as  marking  the 
road  along  which  Christ  was  led  to  cruci- 
fixion. This  street  is  filled  with  tradition- 
al stations,  which  are  pointed  out,  although 
the  ground  the  Savior  trod  lies  forty  feet 
below  the  present  surface ;  among  others, 
I  mav  mention  an  indentation  made  in  the 


wait  until  your  return  from  the  Jordan,  as  [  stone  wall  by  the  shoulder  of  the  Savior 
you  pass  it  coming  back  from  that  excur-  when  falling,  and  this  spot  is  alternately 
sion.  It  is  a  miserable  dirty  Arab  village,  kissed  by  the  pilgrims  and  spit  upon  by 
but  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  delightful  the  Jews  whenever  they  pass  that  way. 


neighborhood,  abounding  in  olive,  pome- 
granate, fig,  and  almond  trees,  and  associ- 
ated with  much  that  is  interesting  in  the 
966 


This  street  is  divided  into  fourteen  stations, 
commemorating  the  different  acts  of  the 
Savior.  The  Latin  Convent  of  the  FlagcUa- 


JERUSALEM. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


BETHLEHEM. 


tion  stands  here,  containing  the  Church  of 
the  Flagellation,  where  Jesus  is  supposed 
to  have  been  scourged.  Opposite  the  con- 
vent is  a  Turkish  barrack,  in  the  interior 
of  which  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Crowning  mth 
Thorns.  Farther  on  is  the  Arch  of  the 
Kcce  Homo,  where  Pilate,  bringing  the 
Savior  out  before  the  populace,  cried  out, 
"Behold  the  man!"  Part  of  this  arch  is 
now  inclosed  in  a  church  attached  to  a  con- 
vent of  French  Sisters  of  Charity.  A  beau- 
tiful statue  of  the  Savior,  crowned  with 
thorns,  stands  under  a  half  dome  immedi- 
ately over  the  arch.  The  house  of  St.  Ve- 
ronica, who  presented  her  handkerchief  to 
the  Savior  to  wipe  his  brow,  may  be  seen. 
This  handkerchief  is  now  one  of  the  princi- 
pal relics  of  St.  Peter's  at  Koine.  It  is 
said  to  be  impressed  with  a  picture  of  the 
Lord's  face  in  blood.  The  place  is  also 
pointed  out  where  Simon  was  compelled  to 
carry  the  cross. 

The  Citadel  or  Tower  of  D.ivid  is  situ- 
ated near  the  Jaffa  Gate,  and  consists  of 
an  assemblage  of  square  towers,  protected 
on  one  side  by  a  wall,  and  on  the  other  by 
a  deep  ditch.  The  Tower  of  David,  which 
gives  its  name  to  the  whole,  stands  to  the 
northeast,  and  is  supposed  by  many  to  be 
the  Tower  of  Hippicus,  of  which  Josephus 
so  often  speaks.  This,  however,  is  a  sub- 
ject of  great  controversy.  This  tower  was 
probably  the  residence  of  the  Latin  kings 
of  Jerusalem,  and  is  stamped  upon  many 
of  their  coins. 


There  are  two  excursions  from  Jerusa- 
lem which  every  traveler  is  obliged  to 
make :  one  to  Hebron,  the  other  to  the 
Dead  Sea  and  the  Jordan. 

From  Jerusalem  to  Hfbron,  via,  Bethle- 
hem, Rachel's  tomb,  and  the  Pools  of  Sol- 
omon. The  excursion  will  take  two  days; 
time  each  way,  seven  hours. 

Issuing  from  the  Jaffa  gate,  we  cross 
the  hill  of  "  Evil  Counsel"  on  its  summit. 
To  our  left  are  some  ruins,  said  to  be  those 
of  the  country-house  of  Caiapha.s  the  high- 
priest.  In  three  quarters  of  an  hour  we 


pass  the  convent  of  Mar  Elias.  Here  a 
depression  is  shown  in  the  rock,  said  to 
be  the  form  of  Elias,  who  here  lay,  weary 
and  hungry,  when  he  was  fed  by  the  an- 
gels. 

In  one  hour  and  three  quarters  we  ar- 
rive at  Bethlehem,  which  in  rank  stands 
first  among  the  holiest  places  on  earth, 
and,  next  to  Jerusalem,  contains  more  at- 
traction to  the  Christian  traveler  than  any 
other  spot  on  the  globe.  The  town,  which 
at  a  distance  presents  a  very  fine  and  im- 
posing appearance,  contains  about  2500  in- 

i  habitants,  nearly  all  of  whom  are  Chris- 
tians. In  the  most  prominent  portion  of 
the  town,  and  rising  conspicuously  above 
all  other  buildings,  is  the  embattled  mon- 
astery, an  enormous  pile  of  buildings,  con- 
>i.-ting  of  the  Latin,  Greek,  and  Armenian 
convents,  which  surround  the  church,  used 
in  common,  which  stands  over  the  Cave  of 

I  the  Nativity.  This  church,  which  was 
erected  in  the  earl}'  portion  of  the  fourth 
century  by  Helena,  the  mother  of  Constan- 

|  tine,  is  the  oldest  Christian  church  in  the 
world.  The  ceiling  is  composed  of  beams 

I  of  cedar  from  the  forest  of  Lebanon.  Its 
gold  and  mosaics  are  entirely  gone ;  but 
when  Baldwin  was  crowned  here  King  of 
Jerusalem,  it  was  in  all  its  glory. 

Descending  14  or  15  steps,  and  travers- 
ing a  long  passage,  we  enter  the  Crypt  or 
Chapel  of  the  Nativity.  The  floor  and  walls 
are  marble.  It  is  about  38  feet  long  and 
12  wide.  At  the  eastern  end  is  a  silver 
star,  around  which  are  the  words  "Hie  de 
Virgine  Maria  Jesus  Christus  natus  est" — 
"  Here  Christ  was  born  of  the  Virgin 
Mary."  In  the  floor  of  the  church,  im- 
mediately above  this  star,  is  another  of 
marble,  said  to  be  under  that  point  of  the 
heavens  in  which  the  star  of  Bethlehem 

;  stood  stationary  to  mark  out  the  birthplace 

i  of  our  Savior.    Al>out  20  feet  from  the  sil- 

i  ver  star  there  is  a  small  recess  in  the  rock, 
in  which  is  a  block  of  marble  hollowed  out 

I  to  represent  a  manger :  the  oriffinal  wood* 

i  en  one  is  now  deposited  in  the  Church  of 
S.  Maria  Maggiore  at  Rome,  and  there  pa- 
raded by  the  Pope  in  tin1  Christmas-day 
ceremonies.  In  front  of  the  manger  is  the 
altar  of  tli .;  Magi.  It'  the  Savior  was  in 
the  manger  in  a  cave,  \ve  can  not  under- 
stand St.  Matthew,  who  says,  ''They  came 
into  the  house  where  the  young  child  was." 

I  We  have  also  here  the  chapels  or  altara 
967 


BETHLEHEM. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


HEBRON. 


of  the  Innocents — 20,000  of  whom  were 
thrown  here  after  the  massacre  by  Herod 
— the  altar  of  the  Shepherds,  and  the  altar 
of  Joseph,  where  he  retired  at  the  moment 
of  the  nativity.  The  whole  chapel  is  light- 
ed by  over  30  gold  and  silver  lamps,  pre- 
sented by  different  sovereigns  of  Europe. 
The  silver  star,  which  every  pilgrim  de- 
voutly kisses  on  his  bended  knees,  was 
sent  from  Vienna,  in  1852,  to  take  the 
place  of  the  one  which  the  Latins  accuse 
the  Greeks  of  having  stolen. 

There  are  several  other  crypts  and  grot- 
toes, the  most  interesting  of  which  is  that 
of  St.  Jerome.  Here  this  father  of  the 
Church  died,  and  here  he  spent  the  great- 
er portion  of  his  life.  His  tomb  is  here 
shown,  but  his  remains  were  carried  to  j 
Rome.  One  of  the  finest  pictures  in  Rome, 
by  Domenichino,  is  that  of  St.  Jerome  tak- 
ing the  sacrament  on  his  death-bed,  in  this 
chapel. 

Below  the  convent,  on  the  outside,  is  the 
celebrated  Milk  Grotto.  Tradition  says 
that  here  the  Mother  and  Child  hid  from 
Herod  for  some  time  previous  to  their  de- 
parture for  Egypt.  The  grotto  is  hewn 
out  of  the  white  limestone  rock,  and  it  is 
said  that  its  whiteness  was  caused  by  a  few 
drops  of  the  Virgin  Mary's  milk,  and  that 
a  visit  to  the  cave,  or  the  possession  of  a 
small  piece  of  the  stone,  has  the  power  of 
supernaturally  increasing  a  woman's  milk. 
Small  pieces  are  consequently  in  great  de- 
mand, and  are  conveyed  to  all  parts  of  the 
world. 

About  half  an  hour  distant  to  the  east 
is  the  Grotto  of  the  Shepherds.  This  is  a 
small  subterranean  chapel,  said  to  be  built , 
over  the  spot  where  the  angels  appeared 
to  the  shepherds  announcing  the  birth  of 
our  Savior. 

About  three  miles  southwest  of  Bethle- 
hem lie  the  Pools  of  Solomon.  They  are 
three  in  number.  They  average  about  300 
feet  square,  and  40  deep.  The  upper  one 
is  25  feet  deep,  next  40  feet,  and  next  50. 
They  are  fed  from  fountains  in  the  vicini- 
ty. The  water  was  conveyed  from  here 
to  Mount  Moriah  by  means  of  an  aqueduct, 
which  still  exists.  Maundrell  says,  tradi- 
tion relates  that  King  Solomon  shut  up 
these  springs,  and  kept  the  door  of  them 
sealed  with  his  own  signet,  to  the  end  that  he 
might  preserve  the  waters  for  his  own  drink- 
ing in  their  natural  freshness  and  purity. 
968 


In  the  environs  of  Bethlehem  Josephus 
mentions  the  town  of  Etharn,  where  the 
summer  palace  of  Solomon  stood,  and  which 
is  supposed  to  be  described  in  Ecclesiastes 
ii,  4, 5.  It  is  situated  about  one  and  a  quar- 
ter miles  east  of  the  Pools  of  Solomon,  and 
is  represented  now  by  the  little  village  of 
Ortas,  whose  habitations  are  of  the  mean- 
est description.  This  is  supposed  to  be  the 
Etam  where  Samson  was  seized  and  deliv- 
ered to  the  Philistines. 

Returning  to  the  Pools,  after  passing 
A  braham's  Oak,  under  which  it  is  said  he 
pitched  his  tent  and  received  the  visits  of 
the  angels,  we  arrive  at  Hebron,  which  is, 
next  to  Damascus,  the  oldest  city  in  the 
world.  It  contains  at  present  about  9000 
inhabitants,  one  fourth  of  whom  are  Jews. 
There  are  no  Christians.  The  town  is  very 
prettily  situated  in  the ''  Valley  of  Eshcol," 
as  noted  now  for  its  splendid  grapes  as  in 
days  of  yore.  Hebron  was  formerly  one 
of  the  most  distinguished  cities  of  the  Holy 
Land.  Here  King  David  for  a  long  time 
kept  his  court,  and  here  was  the  birthplace 
of  John  the  Baptist.  Hen  Abraham  bought 
from  Ephron  the  Hittite  the  cave  and  the 
field  of  Machpelah,  and  here  lie  buried  Abra- 
ham and  Sarah  his  wife.  Isaac,  Rebecca,  and 
Leah,  and  Joseph,  who  was  brought  up  out 
of  Egypt.  Over  these  tombs  the  pious 
Helena  erected  a  church,  which  is  now 
turned  into  a  mosque ;  and,  as  it  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  holiest  places  of  the  Mo- 
hammedans, Christians  are  never  allowed 
to  visit  it.  Ali  Bey,  who,  though  a  Span- 
iard, passed  himself  off  successfully  as  a 
Mussulman,  and  succeeded  in  gaining  ad- 
mission, says:  "All  the  sepulchres  of  the 
Patriarchs  are  covered  with  rich  carpets 
of  green  silk,  magnificently  embroidered 
with  gold;  those  of  their  wives  are  red, 
similarly  embroidered.  The  Sultan  of  Con- 
stantinople furnishes  the  carpets,  which 
are  renewed  from  time  to  time.  I  count- 
ed nine,  one  over  the  other,  upon  the  sepul- 
chre of  Abraham.  The  rooms,  also,  which 
contain  the  tombs,  are  covered  with  rich 
carpets.  The  entrance  to  them  is  guarded 
with  iron  gates  and  wooden  doors,  prated 
with  silver,  with  bolts  and  padlocks  of  the 
same  metal.  There  are  computed  to  be 
upward  of  100  persons  employed  in  the 
service  of  the  temple.  It  consequently  is 
easy  to  imagine  how  many  alms  must  be 
paid."  There  are  nine  mosques  in  the 


MAR  SABA. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


DEAI> 


town.     The  one  over  these  tombs  is  the 
largeati 

On  your  return  to  Jerusalem  you  might 
leave  the  direct  road  by  which  you  came, 
and  visit  the  Convent  of  St.  John  in  the 
Desert. 

Travelers  not  wishing  to  visit  Hebron 
can  take  Bethlehem  on  the  way  to  the 
Dead  Sea,  although  it  is  two  hours  oat  of 
the  way. 

The  excursion  from  Jerusalem  to  the 
Dead  Sea,  the  Jordan,  and  Jericho,  occu- 
pies about  three  days — that  is,  you  have 
to  pay  for  three  days.  The  usual  fare  paid 
to  the  dragoman  is  $6  25  per  day,  he  fur- 
nishing every  thing,  horses,  tents,  and  pro- 
visions, to  which  add  $2  50  paid  to  the 
sheik  of  the  territory  lying  between  Jeru- 
salem and  the  Jordan,  on  consideration  of 
which  he  insures  your  person  from  rob- 
bery, and  sends  a  sheik  to  accompany  the 
party. 

Starting  from  Jerusalem  at  noon,  in 
about  four  hours  we  arrive  at  the  Convent 
of  Mar  Saba,  one  of  the  most  singular  and 
picturesque  buildings  in  Syria.  It  is  built 
in  the  side  of  the  rocks  which  overhang  an 
immense  precipice.  On  projecting  cliffs 
are  towers,  chapels,  and  terraces.  Some 
of  the  caves  in  the  rocks  are  artificial  and 
some  natural;  indeed,  it  is  very  difficult  to 
tell  which  is  masonry  and  which  nature. 
It  is  strongly  fortified  by  a  massive  wall, 
pierced  with  portals,  to  protect  it  from  the 
raids  of  the  Bedouin  Arabs ;  and  having 
the  reputation  of  being  the  richest,  as  it  is 
the  oldest  convent  in  Syria,  makes  every 
precaution  necessary.  On  your  arrival, 
after  traversing  a  first  court,  where  are  the 
stables  for  your  horses,  you  ascend  an  ab- 
rupt staircase  to  a  platform,  in  the  centre 
of  which  stands  a  circular  chapel  contain- 
ing the  tomb  of  St.  Saba.  On  the  other 
side  is  the  church.  This  building  is  con- 
structed in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross.  It 
is  surmounted  by  a  dome,  which  is  sus- 
tained by  arches  resembling  somewhat  in 
disposition  the  Mosque  of  St.  Sophia  in 
Constantinople.  Numerous  staircases  lead 
from  the  church  to  the  cells  of  the  monks, 
which  are  cut  in  the  rook.  Those  of  St. 
John  of  Damascus  and  St.  Cyril  are  shown. 
Descending  a  flight  of  steps,  you  enter  a 
fine  apartment,  surrounded  by  a  wide  di- 
van, on  which  you  sleep  at  night.  A  monk 
enters,  carrying  on  a  small  salver  a  glass 


of  raki,  a  teaspoonful  of  jelly,  and  a  glars 
of  water.  The  raki  is  as  strong  as  raw 
brandy  ;  you  drink  that,  eat  the  jell}',  and 
drink  the  water.  This  is  all  the  convent 
supplies,  supper  and  breakfast  being  pre- 
pared by  your  own  servants  in  the  court- 
yard, or  in  your  tents,  if  you  do  not  lodge 
at  the  convent  for  the  night.  St.  8  L 
was  born  in  439,  and  founded  this  convent 
in  483.  The  cave  he  lirst  inhabited  is 
shown.  It  is  said  that  on  his  first  visit  it 
was  occupied  by  a  lion.  St.  Saba  intima- 
ted to  the  monarch  of  the  woods  that  he 
intended  to  make  it  his  future  residence, 
whereupon  the  lion  quietly  withdrew !  He 
lived  here  until  his  death  in  532,  and  dis- 
tinguished himself  by  his  zeal  in  extermi- 
nating the  heresy  of  the  Monophysites. 
The  Persians  plundered  the  convent  in  the 
7th  ccnturj-,  and  forty-four  of  the  monks 
were  murdered :  their  skulls  are  shown  in 
a  small  chapel.  Females  are  not  allowed 
to  cross  the  threshold.  The  convent  is  oc- 
cupied by  Greek  monks,  and,  if  visitors  can 
have  a  choice  of  rooms,  we  would  strongly 
i  recommend  their  getting  as  far  away  from 
j  the  church  as  possible.  The  author's  apart- 
ment was  connected  with  the  chapel  by  an 
I  opening  in  the  top  of  the  wall,  and  from 
the  hours  of  2  A.M.  to  C  A.M.  (daybreak) 
he  found  it  impossible  to  sleep,  owing  to 
the  noise  made  by  two  monks  praying  in 
the  most  boisterous  manner  the  whole  of  the 
time :  it  sounded  like  two  rival  auctioneers 
knocking  down  goods  at  the  top  of  their 
voices.  The  fee  to  the  convent  is  included 
in  the  charge  of  the  dragoman. 

From  Mar  Saba  to  the  Dead  Sea  tho 
time  is  4£  hours.     The  country,  as  you  ad- 
vance, seems  destitute  of  every  thing  but 
worn-out  barren  rocks.     Soon  you  come 
I  in  sight  of  a  grand  but  desolate  scene :  be- 
1  tween  two   walls   of  mountains   running 
north    and   south,  without   the    slightest 
break  or  undulation,  lies  the  Dead  Sea; 
j  away  north  of  which  yon  see  the  valley  of 
,  the  Jordan,  and  can  track  the  course  of  the 
river  by  the  willows  and  reeds  that  border 
it.     The  traveler  will  readily  understand 
how  much  "going  down"  there  is  from  the 
fact  that  the  Dead  Sea  lies  nearly  1000  feet 
]  below  Jerusalem,  or  1300  feet  belo'v  the 
Mediterranean.     According  to  the  survey 
I  made  by  Lieutenant  Lynch   in  1848,  the 
entire  length  of  the  Dead  Sea  is  46  miles, 
and  its  greatest  breadth  11  miles ;  its  me- 


THE  JORDAN. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


THE  JORDAN. 


diuin  depth  is  1000  feet;  its  greatest  depth 
1300.  The  mountains  which  inclose  it  on 
every  side  are  not  less  than  2000  feet  high. 
The  story  that  birds  could  not  Qy  across 
this  sea,  owing  to  its  pestiferous  influence, 
is  entirely  incorrect.  The  author  has  seen 
both  geese  and  pigeons  flying  on  its  sur- 
face. The  specific  gravity  of  its  waters  is 
very  great,  consequent  on  the  large  amount 
of  briny  matter  which  they  hold  in  solu- 
tion. The  waves,  instead  of  splashing, 
roll  like  a  sea  of  oil ;  it  is  almost  impossi- 
ble to  sink  in  it,  and  the  appearance  of  a 
horse,  who,  in  trying  to  swim,  rolls  over  on 
his  side,  is  very  amusing.  The  cities  of 
Sodom  and  Gomorrah  were  supposed  to 
have  been  situated  at  the  southern  end  of 
the  sea. 

The  time  from  the  Dead  Sea  to  the  Jor- 
dan is  only  one  hour,  riding  over  a  perfect- 
ly level  plain,  which  is  covered  with  a  thin, 
smooth  dust. 

The  Jordan  is  about  200  miles  in  length, 
running  through  the  Lake  of  El-Huleh  and 
the  Sea  of  Tiberias.  Between  the  Dead 
Sea  and  the  Sea  of  Tiberias  the  distance  is 
70  miles,  and  between  El-Huleh  and  the 
latter  the  distance  is  only  8.  It  varies  in 
breadth  from  50  to  150  feet ;  and,  accord- 
ing as  the  Lake  of  El-Huleh  is  50  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the  Dead 
Sea  1312  feet  below,  the  fall  is  great,  and 
consequently  the  current  very  rapid,  as  the 
author  knows  to  his  cost,  having  been  car- 
ried below  the  lauding  in  swimming  across, 
and  getting  his  feet  cut  in  the  most  fright- 
ful manner  in  trying  to  stem  the  current 
while  crawling  over  the  stones  at  the  ford 
below.  This  is  supposed  to  be  the  place 
where  John  baptized  the  Savior ;  where 
the  Israelites  crossed ;  where  Elijah  di- 
vided the  waters  and  passed  over  with  Eli- 
sha,  ascending  into  heaven  from  the  op- 
posite bank;  where  Elisha,  on  whom  the 
mantle  of  Elijah  had  fallen,  smote  the  wa- 
ters and  again  divided  them. 

During  Easter,  the  Monday  of  the  Pas- 
sion Week,  the  Christian  pilgrims  from  all 
parts  of  the  world  come  to  bathe  in  the 
Jordan  at  this  spot.  This  singular  custom 
is  described  by  Lieutenant  Lynch,  who  hap- 
pened to  reach  the  Pilgrims'  Ford  just  as 
the  cavalcade  approached:  "At  3A.M.  we 
were  aroused  by  the  intelligence  that  the 
pilgrims  were  coming.  Eising  in  haste, 
•we  beheld  thousands  of  torch-lights,  with 
970 


a  dark  mass  beneath,  moving  rapidly  over 
the  hills.  Striking  our  tents  with  precipi- 
tation, we  hurriedly  removed  them  and  all 
our  effects  a  short  distance  to  the  left.  We 
had  scarce  finished  when  they  were  upon 
us — men,  women,  and  children,  mounted 
upon  camels,  horses,  mules,  and  donkeys, 
rushed  impetuously  by  toward  the  bank. 
They  presented  the  appearance  of  fugitives 
from  a  routed  army.  Our  Bedouin  friends 
here  stood  us  in  good  stead  :  sticking  their 
tufted  spears  before  our  tent,  they  formed 
a  cordon  around  us.  But  for  them  we 
should  have  been  run  down,  and  most  of 
our  effects  trampled  upon,  scattered,  and 
lost.  Strange  that  we  should  have  been 
shielded  from  a  Christian  throng  by  wild 
children  of  the  desert — Moslems  in  name, 
but  pagans  in  reality.  Nothing  but  the 
spears  and  swarthy  faces  of  the  Arabs  pro- 
tected us.  I  had  in  the  mean  time  sent 
the  boats  to  the  opposite  shore,  a  little  be- 
low the  bathing-place,  as  well  to  be  out  of 
the  way  as  to  be  in  readiness  to  render  as- 
sistance should  any  of  the  crowd  be  swept 
down  by  the  current  and  in  danger  of 
drowning.  While  the  boats  were  taking 
their  position,  one  of  the  earlier  bathers 
cried  out  that  it  was  a  sacred  place ;  but 
when  the  purpose  was  explained  to  him  he 
warmly  thanked  us.  Moored  to  the  oppo- 
site shore,  with  their  crews  in  them,  they 
presented  an  unusual  spectacle.  The  party 
which  had  disturbed  us  was  the  advanced 
guard  of  the  great  body  of  the  pilgrims. 

"At  five,  just  at  the  dawn  of  day,  the 
last  made  its  appearance,  coming  over  the 
crest  of  a  high  ridge  in  one  tumultuous  and 
eager  throng.  In  all  the  wild  haste  of  a 
disorderly  rout  —  Copts,  Russians,  Poles, 
Armenians,  Greeks,  and  Syrians,  from  all 
parts  of  Asia,  from  Europe,  and  from  Afri- 
ca, and  from  far  distant  America — on  they 
came,  men,  women,  and  children,  of  every 
age  and  hue,  and  in  every  variety  of  cos- 
turse,  talking,  screaming,  and  shouting  in 
every  known  language  under  the  sun. 
Mounted  as  variously  as  those  who  had 
preceded  them — many  of  the  women  and 
children  were  suspended  in  baskets  or  con- 
fined in  cages — and  with  eyes  strained  to- 
ward the  river,  heedless  of  all  intervening 
obstacles,  they  hurried  eagerly  forward, 
and,  dismounting  in  haste,  and  disrobing 
with  precipitation,  rushed  down  and  threw 
themselves  into  the  stream. 


FOUNTAIN  OF  ELISHA.        [SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


JERUSALEM. 


"They  seemed  to  be  absorbed  by  one 
impulsive  feeling,  and  perfectly  regard- 
less of  the  observation  of  otlici.-. 
plunged  himself,  or  was  dipped  by  anoth- 
er, three  times  below  the  surface  in  honor 
of  the  Trinity,  and  then  tilled  a  bottle  or 
some  other  utensil  from  the  river.  The 
bathing-dress  of  many  of  the  pilgrims  was 
a  white  gown  with  a  black  cross  on  it. 
Most  of  them,  as  soon  as  they  were  dr  -ss- 
ed,  cut  branches  of  the  agnus  castus,  or 
willow,  and,  dipping  them  in  the  consecra- 
ted stream,  bore  them  away  as  memorials 
of  their  visit.  In  an  hour  they  began  to 
disappear,  and  in  less  than  two  hours  the 
trodden  surface  of  the  lately-crowded  bank 
reflected  no  human  shadow.  The  pageant 
disappeared  as  rapidly  as  it  had  approach- 
ed, and  left  to  us  once  more  the  silence  and 
the  solitude  of  the  wilderness.  It  was  like 
a  dream.  An  immense  crowd  of  human 
beings,  said  to  be  8000,  but  I  thought  not  so 
many,  had  passed  and  repassed  before  our 
tents,  and  left  not  a  vestige  behind  them.'' 

From  the  Jordan  to  the  site  of  ancient 
Jericho  the  time  is  about  two  hours,  trav- 
eling over  an  uncultivated  and  perfectly 
level  plain,  which  in  Josephus's  time  was 
considered  the  most  fruitful  land  of  Ju- 
da?j.  Near  the  site  of  ancient  Jericho  we 
pass  the  tilthy  village  of  Kiha,  inclosed  hv 
a  thick  hedge  of  "  nubk"  to  protect  it  from 
the  raids  of  the  Bedouin  Arabs. 

A  little  farther  on  we  arrive  at  the 
"  Fountain  of  Elisha,"  now  known  as  Ain 
es-Sultan,  where  we  encamp  for  the  night. 
This  plain  is  capable  of  the  highest  state 
of  cultivation,  as  it  was  in  ancient  times, 
when  watered  by  the  brook  issuing  from 
the  Fountain  of  Elisha.  It  was  then  cov- 
ered with  luxuriant  gardens  of  palm-trees, 
whicli  grew  to  an  unusual  size.  Here  also 
grew  the  famous  Myrobalanum,  or  balsam- 
trees,  the  fruit  of  whicli  had  the  virtue  of 
almost  instantaneously  curing  all  wounds. 
The  whole  of  the  groves  were  given  bv 
Mark  Antony  to  Cleopatra,  from  whom 
Uerod  the  Great  purchased  them,  with  the 
exception  of  the  balsam-trees,  which  she 
transplanted  to  the  city  of  Hcliupulis  in 
Egypt.  Here  Herod  the  (ireat  built  the 
new  city  of  Jericho,  and  adorned  it  in  the 
most  magnificent  manner.  Here,  also,  he 
died.  Your  dragoman  does  not  point  out 
the  tree  whicli  Zaccheus  climbed  to  see  the 
Savior,  but  he  does  his  house.  It  is  now 


|  occupied  by  half  a  dozen  Turkish  soldiers. 
A  fine  view  may  be  had  from  the  top.  The 
fountain  of  Elislia,  the  waters  of  which  Eli- 
sha healed,  being  the  second  miracle  he 
performed,  was  formerly,  in  the  time  of 
the  Romans,  conveyed  in  aqueducts  over  a 
va-t  extent  of  ground  for  the  purpose  of 
irrigation.  The  water  at  its  source  is  very 
sweet,  but  quite  warm. 

Leaving  Jericho  in  the  morning,  in  about 
six  hours  we  arrive  at  Jerusalem,  passing 
over  the  most  dangerous  and  dreary  road 
in  Syria.  On  this  road  Sir  Frederick  Hen- 
niker,  the  author,  "fell  among  thieves," 
was  robbed,  and  nearly  murdered.  We  see 
from  here  no  vestige  remaining  of  the  for- 
est where  the  she-bears  lurked  that  "tare 
the  forty-and-two  wicked  children."  Al- 

1  though  not  on  the  direct  road  to  Bethel,  it 
would  be  visible  from  any  of  the  numerous 
heights.  You  pass  through  Bethany  on 
your  way  to  Jerusalem. 

Previous  to  leaving  Jerusalem,  by  mak- 
ing application  to  the  grand  patriarch,  you 
can  obtain  the  following  document  certify- 
ing that  you  have  visited  the  holy  places 
of  Palestine. 

"IX  DEI  NOMINE.     AMEN. 

"Omnibus,  et  singnlb  pra??entes  litteras  fn- 
specturis,  lecturia,  vtl  legi  auditurls  fidem,  no- 
tumque  facimu.s  Nos  Terree  Sanctss  Cuatos. 

"D'num  D'num  Pembroke  Ketridge  America- 
num — Jerusalem  feliciter  pervenisse  die  22  men- 
sis  December,  anni  1S59 ;  inde  aubsequentibus 
diebua  prtecipua  Sanrtuaria,  in  qiiibus  Mumli 
Salvator  dilectum  populum  suum,  imo  et  totius 
humani  generis  perditam  congeriem  ab  inferi 
pcrvitute  miserecorditer  Hberavit ;  utpote:  C'al- 
varium,  ubi  ( 'nioi  affixu?,  devicta  niorte,  Cceli 
jaiuia*  nobis  npornit ;  SS.  Sepulcrum,  ubi  Snc- 
rosanctum  ejus  corpus  eeconditum,  triduo  ante 
guam  gloriosissimani  Ke.-nrrectionem  quievit ;  ac 
tandem  ea  omnia  Sncr.i  P:ilfrstinn>  Lori 
bus  Domini,  ac  Heatfcsimse  eju*  Matria  Mariie 
cons>ecrat:<,  :i  Kcliu'i"-is  no.-tris  et  peregrini-'  vi.-*- 
it.-iri  snlita.  visi:a---e  et  magna  cum  devotione  in 
ci^  Mi.--fun  audivNse. 

"In  quorum  fidcm  h.i?  ?criptura.«  officii  nostri 
gigillo  munita.-*,  per  Secretarium  expediri  niau- 
davinui?. 

"  Dati?  apud  S.  Civitatem  Jerusalem  ex  Vene- 
rabili  nogtro  Conventu  sS.  Salvatoris  die  29 
men.-e  1  Xbrij,  anno  I).  K>!>. 

'•  l>r  M\M«"  I;KMI,  I'ris  Custodij. 

[SEAL.]       "  l"iu  <  'i .1  M>  N--    \    SU.ERIO,  Terra 
Sanct®  Secretarius." 

.(  Jetitsalem  to  Bfyrout,  vi:\  Xablous 

(Sheehem),  Samaria,  .'eiiin,  Nazareth.  Mt. 

Tilierias,  Capernaum,  Safed,  Bunius  (Cae- 

sarea  of  Philip),  Damascus,  and  Baalbec, 

i  will  occupy  in  actual  travel  thirteen  days, 

971 


NABLOUS. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


SAMARIA, 


and  Damascus  is  the  only  place  on  the 
route  at  which  the  generality  of  travelers 
care  about  making  any  lengthened  stay. 

From  Jerusalem  to  Nablous  or  Nabn- 
lus,  Neapolis  or  "New  City,"  the  ancient 
tihechem,  Murray  makes  the  time  12  hours ; 
the  author  rode  it  in  7.30 !     Dragomans 
generally  make  two  days  of  the  distance  ; 
if  good  riders,  one  is  sufficient.     On  our 
way  we  puss  the  site   of  Gibeah-Kamah, 
the  home  of  Saul,  and  for  some  time  the 
seat  of  his  government.    Some  distance  on 
our  right  are  the  ruins  of  ancient  Beilnd  -, 
but  Bethel  has  "come   to   naught,"  and 
there  is  nothing  there  to  see.     Here  Ja- 
cob, lying  on  the  ground  with  a  stone  for 
his  pillow,  dreamed  of  a  ladder  that  reach-  j 
ed  from  heaven  to  earth,  with  the  angels  • 
of  God  ascending  and  descending,  and,  ! 
waking,  named  the  place  Beth-el,  the  house  i 
of  God. 

To  visit  Shiloh  or  Seilun,  a  half-hour's 
extra  ride  must  be  taken  from  the  main 
road.  The  tabernacle  of  the  Lord  was 
placed  here  after  the  conquest  of  Canaan, 
and  remained  until  the  end  of  the  govern- 
ment of  the  judges.  The  site  of  ancient 
Shiloh  is  unmistakable,  being  described 
with  unusual  precision  in  the  Bible  (Jer. 
vii,  12).  Proceeding  on  our  route,  about 
half  an  hour  before  we  reach  Nablous  we 
come  to  Jacob's  Well,  now  in  a  ruinous 
state,  and  choked  up  with  stones.  Chris- 
tian, Jew,  and  Mohammedan  all  agree  as 
to  its  identity.  These  are  the  same  fields 
that  Jacob  bought  of  the  sons  of  Hamor, 
and  this  well  did  Jacob  dig.  Here  Christ 
sat  and  talked  with  the  woman  of  Samaria. 
A  short  distance  east  of  the  well  is  the 
supposed  tomb  of  Joseph,  kept  in  good  re- 
pair and  surrounded  by  a  well.  Accord- 
ing to  Joshua,  it  is  more  likely  he  was 
buried  here  than  at  Hebron.  "And  the 
bones  of  Joseph,  which  the  children  of  Is- 
rael brought  up  out  of  Egypt,  buried  they 
in  Shechem." 

You  now  pass  between  the  two  mounts 
Gerizim  and  Ebal,  where  Moses  command- 
ed Joshua  to  read  the  Law  before  the  con- 
gregation of  Israel.  According  to  Mr. 
Stanley,  Mount  Gerizim  is  noted  for  two 
memorable  events,  namely,  Abraham's 
mooting  with  Melchisedek,  and  where  he 
offered  up  Isaac  for  a  burnt-offering.  An 
excursion  to  the  shrine  of  the  Samaritans 
at  the  top  should  be  made  bv  all  means. 
972 


Nablous  contains  about  8000  inhabit- 
ants, most  of  whom  are  Mohammedans, 
500  Greeks,  150  Samaritans,  and  100  Jews. 
It  is  situated  in  a  fertile  valley  of  great 
beauty,  stretching  along  the  eastern  base 
of  Mount  Gerizim,  or  "  Mount  of  Bless- 
ing/' The  houses  are  well  built,  but  the 
streets  are  filthy  and  very  narrow;  nearlv 
all  the  houses  meet  across  the  street  at  the 
top,  and  form  arches,  shutting  out  the 
light  of  the  sun.  The  inhabitants  of  Na- 
blous have  a  very  bad  character ;  they  hate 
the  Christians  and  Jews,  and  are  always  in 
a  state  of  insurrection  against  the  authori- 
ties. It  is  noted  for  its  olive-oil  and  soap 
factories.  There  are  few  cities  in  the  world 
dating  back  as  far  as  this,  having,  as  we 
do,  its  history  for  over  4000  years.  Here 
Abraham  first  pitched  his  tent  in  Canaan  ; 
Simeon  and  Levi  here  slaughtered  the  en- 
tire male  population  to  avenge  the  dishonor 
of  their  sister  Dinah;  and  here  Rehoboam 
was  proclaimed  king  over  all  Israel. 

In  the  interior  of  the  village,  the  ruins  of 
the  Church  of  the  Passion,  or  Resurrection, 
built  in  11G7,  may  be  visited;  also  that 
of  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  The  Samari- 
tan synagogue  is  a  simple  building  with 
whitewashed  walls  and  matted  floor,  capa- 
ble of  containing  40  or  50  persons.  Oppo- 
site the  door  is  a  recess  concealed  by  a  cur- 
tain, and  here  is  kept  the  celebrated  Sama- 
ritan Codex.  The  Samaritans  believe  only 
in  the  Pentateuch,  or  first  five  books  of 
Moses.  They  erected  formerly  a  temple 
on  Mount  Gerizim,  but  it  was  destroyed  by 
the  Jews,  to  whom  the  word  Samaritan 
was  a  name  of  reproach,  under  John  Ilyr- 
canus. 

The  excursion  to  Mount  Gerizim  takes 
about  two  hours  to  go  and  return,  and  had 
better  be  done  on  horseback.  The  ruins 
are  not  in  any  way  remarkable,  but  the 
views  from  the  mountain  are  superb,  the 
scenery  being  as  fine  here  as  in  anj'  part 
of  Palestine. 

From  Nubians  to  Jenin  (the  direct  route), 
viti  Samaria,  is  about  eitrht  hours. 

In  two  hours  we  arrive  at  the  Sebaste 
of  Herod,  and  Samaria,  the  capital  of  the 
kings  of  Israel.  It  is  situated  at  the  top 
of  a  hill  which  rises  some  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  plain.  The 
only  objects  of  interest  in  this  miserable 
village,  which  contains  about  500  inhal> 
itants,  are  the  remains  of  Herod's  noble 


JENIN. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


X  A 7.  A  BETH 


colonnade  and  the  Church  of  St.  John. 
Tin-  latter  was  erected  l>y  the  Knights  of 
St.  John  over  the  reputed  sepulchre  of  their 
patron  saint,  John  the  Baptist.  The  tomb 
is  excavated  out  of  a  solid  rock,  some  tif- 
teen  feet  below  the  floor  of  the  church. 
The  building  is  now  roofless,  and  the  walls 
fast  crumbling  away.  The  inhabitants 
are  most  insolent  and  clamorous  for  back- 
sheesh.  Be  particular  the  fee  is  given  to 
the  proper  keeper  (about  25  cents),  or  you 
may  get  into  trouble;  considerable  show 
of  weapons  and  a  very  small  sprinkling 
of  piastres,  however,  and  you  will  get 
along  very  well.  The  columns  of  the  col- 
onnade that  now  remain  are  sixty  or  sev- 
enty in  number ;  their  capitals  are  gone, 
and  they  are  deeply  imbedded  in  the  soil. 
Samaria  was  founded  by  Omri,  king  of 
Israel,  and  besieged  under  his  successor 
Aliab — who  married  the  notorious  Jezebel 
. — by  the  King  of  Damascus.  The  suffer- 
ing of  the  inhabitants  for  three  years,  dur- 
ing which  time  the  siege  lasted,  was  hor- 
rible— mothers  boiling  and  eating  their  in- 
fant children  for  food.  It  was  relieved  as 
predicted  by  Elisha  the  prophet.  It  was 
again  besieged  by  the  Assyrians  in  7 '20 
B.C.  and  taken.  It  was  presented  by  the 
Kmperor  Augustus  to  his  favorite,  Herod 
the  (!reat,  who  rebuilt  it  with  great  mag- 
nificence, naming  it  Sebaste,  in  honor  of 
the  donor. 

Travelers  preferring  to  visit  Crcsarea 
And  Mount  Carmel  on  the  coast  to  going 
more  direct  to  Nazareth  by  Jenin,  Nain, 
and  Endor,  strike  off  to  the  left  at  Sama- 
ria ;  the  former  route  will  take  four  days, 
the  hitter  two.  From  Samaria  to  Jenin 
the  time  is  five  hours.  After  passing  the 
village  of  Geba  we  see  on  our  left  the  ruins 
of  the  fortress  of  Sanar,  belonging  to  an 
independent  family  of  sheiks.  It  has  with- 
stood a  great  manv  sieges.  It  was  storm- 
ed and  carried  by  Abdallah  Pacha  in  1830. 
The  sheik's  family,  armed  to  the  teeth, 
were  rebuilding  it  when  the  author  passed 
through  the  country  in  1860. 

Jenin  is  most  beautifully  situated,  lying, 
as  it  does,  at  the  entrance  of  the  great 
Valley  of  F.sdraelon,  the  battle-field  of  Pal- 
estine. It  contains  2000  inhabitants.  On 
the  hill  behind  the  town  there  is  a  foun- 
tain, from  which  the  place  derives  its  name, 
a  modern  aqueduct  leading  from  which  con- 
veys the  water  to  the  centre  of  the  town. 
VOL.  II.— T  2 


The  beautiful  plain  of  Esdraelon,  on  which 
we  now  enter,  is  about  twenty  miles  from 
east  to  west,  and  thirteen  miles  from  north 
to  south.  It  is  known  to  the  Arabs  in  the 
present  day  as  Mr/j  Ibn  Amir,  "the  Plain 
of  the  Sons  of  Amir."  Right  before  us 
stands  Mount  Tabor,  rising  like  a  cone 
from  the  dead  level  plain. 

The  time  from  Jenin  to  Nazareth,  on  a 
direct  line,  passing  only  the  remains  of  the 
ancient  castle  El*F&bh,  where  the  I  r.-iv.- 
General  Kleber,  with  3000  Frenchmen, 
kept  30,000  Turks  at  bay  for  six  hours, 
until  relieved  by  Napoleon,  is  only  five 
hours.  The  more  interesting  route  will  be 
to  make  a  detour  to  the  right,  passing  Mount 
Gilboa,  once  crowned  with  a  fortress,  but 
now  by  the  village  of  Wezar.  On  a  pro- 
jecting spur  of  Mount  Gilboa  stood  ancient 
Jtzreel,  the  capital  of  Ahab  and  the  wicked 
Jezebel,  and  the  scene,  first,  of  their  cru- 
elty, and  then  of  their  retribution.  A  few 
miles  farther  we  come  to  Solera,  or  ancient 
Shunent,  passing/,»We  IJermon,  or  the  "  Hill 
of  Moreh,"  near  which  Gideon  attacked 
the  Midianites.  Travelers  should,  by  all 
means,  ascend  the  mountain,  for  the  view 
obtained  of  the  localities  associated  with 
our  Bible  history  amply  repays  the  diffi- 
culties of  the  ascent.  It  was  in  Shunem 
that  Elijah  restored  the  Shunamitc's  child 
to  life,  as  related  in  2  Kings  iv.,  8-37. 
Riding  round  the  base  of  Little  Ilermon.  in 
40  minutes  we  reach  Nain,  where  Jesus 
restored  to  life  the  widow's  son;  and  in  an- 
other half  hour  we  reach  Endor,  where,  in 
one  of  the  numerous  caverns  hewn  in  the 
cliff's  above  the  houses,  King  Saul's  inter- 
view with  the  witch  took  place.  This 
route  will  occupy  four  hours  longer  than 
the  other ;  this  is  about  nine  hours  to  Naz- 
areth. 

Xnzareth,  the  scene  of  the  Annunciation, 
and  the  home  of  the  Savior  during  his  boy- 
hood years,  contains  a  population  of  3000 
inhabitants,  2500  of  whom  are  Christians. 
The  village  is  beautifully  situated  on  an 
elevation  on  the  western  side  of  one  of  the 
loveliest  valleys  in  Syria,  surrounded  by 
beautiful  fields,  gardens,  and  orchards. 
The  Latin  convent,  a  large  square  building 
inclosed  by  a  wall,  contains  the  Church  of 
the  Annunciation,  and  the  house  of  Joseph 
and  Mary.  The  interior  of  the  church  is 
hung  with  rich  damask  silk,  and  adorned 
with  tasteless  finery.  Underneath  tho 
973 


TIBERIAS. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


MOUNT  TABOR. 


church  are  shown  the  kitchen,  parlor,  and 
bedroom  of  the  Virgin.  In  front  of  the  al- 
tar are  two  granite  pillars,  standing  about 
three  feet  apart ;  they  are  pointed  out  as 
occupying  the  precise  spots  on  which  the 
angel  and  Mary  stood  at  the  moment  of  the 
Annunciation.  One  of  the  columns  seems 
to  have  been  broken  about  a  foot  and  a 
half  above  the  floor;  the  upper  part  re- 
mains suspended  from  the  roof;  a  frag- 
ment of  another  column  is  placed  immedi- 
ately below  it,  resembling  it  in  appear- 
ance ;  but  the  upper  portion  is  granite,  and 
the  lower  marble !  The  monks  say  they 
were  once  the  same  pillar,  but  the  Mo- 
hammedans hacked  it  through  with  their 
swords  in  the  vain  attempt  to  pull  down 
the  roof,  and  that  the  upper  part  is  miracu- 
lously suspended  without  support.  You 
are  now  led  to  the  workshop  of  Joseph,  a 
small  whitewashed  chapel ;  over  the  altar 
is  a  representation  of  Joseph  and  Jesus  at 
work.  A  little  west  of  this  is  a  small  chap- 
el, which  the  monks  represent  as  the  syna- 
gogue in  which  Christ  provoked  the  Jews ; 
close  by  is  another,  purporting  to  contain 
the  "table"  of  Christ,  on  whicli  he  com- 
monly ate  both  before  and  after  the  Resur- 
rection. On  the  walls  of  this  chapel  are 
copies  of  a  certificate  from  the  pope  attest- 
ing its  authenticity,  and  granting  seven 
years  and  forty  weeks'  indulgence  to  Chris- 
tians who  have  made  a  pilgrimage  to  Naz- 
areth, and  said  &  pater  and  ave,  they  being 
in  a  state  of  grace.  On  the  eastern  side  of 
the  village  the  Greeks  have  their  Church 
of  the  Annunciation,  built  over  the  Foun- 
tain of  the  Virgin.  They  say  the  event  of 
the  Annunciation  took  place  while  Mary 
was  drawing  water  from  this  fountain. 

The  inhabitants  are  mostly  employed  in 
rural  pursuits.  Travelers  preferring  to 
visit  Tyre  and  Sidon,  and  proceeding  along 
the  coast,  turn  to  the  left  here.  The  time 
to  Beyrout  by  this  route  is  about  four 
days. 

The  direct  road  from  Nazareth  to  Tibe- 
rias occupies  about  five  hours.  By  this 
route  you  pass  over  the  battle-field  of  Hat- 
tin,  where  the  Sultan  Saladin  gave  the  final 
blow  to  the  Crusaders  in  the  Holy  Land, 
completely  exterminating  their  army,  and 
taking  the  King  of  Jerusalem  and  the 
Grand  Master  of  the  Templars  prisoners, 
slaj'ing  with  his  own  hand,  as  he  had 
sworn  to  do,  Raynald  of  Chatillon,  who 
974 


treacherously  broke  the  truce  between  the 
Arabs  and  Christians  by  plundering  a  car- 
avan from  Damascus,  and  refusing  to  give 
up  the  merchants  at  the  request  of  the  sul- 
tan. By  this  route  you  pass  also  through 
Cana  of  Galilee,  where  Christ  performed 
the  miracle  of  turning  the  water  into  wine. 
In  a  small  church  the  urns  are  still  shown 
by  the  Greek  monks  which  contained  the 
water.  Our  route  to  Tiberias  is  via  Mount 
Tabor.  This  occupies  two  hours'  longer 
time,  including  the  time  to  make  the  as- 
cent of  the  mountain  (nearly  an  hour) 
You  should  by  no  means  fail  to  make  the 
ascent. 

Mount  Tabor  lies  about  seven  miles  east 
of  Nazareth.  It  was  for  a  long  time  con- 
sidered the  scene  of  the  Transfiguration  ; 
but  recent  travelers  have  shorn  it  of  that 
crowning  glory.  The  proof  is  this,  at  that 
time  its  summit  was  covered  with  houses, 
and  we  still  see  the  ruins  of  the  town  and 
fortress  defended  and  repaired  by  Joseplms. 
The  view  from  the  top  is  most  magnificent. 
Looking  toward  the  south,  you  have  in  full 
view  the  high  mountains  of  Gilboa,  fatal 
to  Saul  and  his  sons.  On  the  east  you  per- 
ceive Lake  Tiberias,  or  Sea  of  Galilee,  dis- 
tant about  four  hours.  On  the  north  you 
discover  the  Mount  of  the  Beatitudes  and 
the  city  of  Saphet  standing  on  a  very 
eminent  and  conspicuous  mountain :  and 
to  the  southwest  you  discern  at  a  distance 
the  Mediterranean,  and  all  around  you  have 
the  spacious  and  beautiful  plain  of  Esdrae- 
lon  and  Galilee.  There  is  a  convent  now 
in  course  of  erection  on  top  of  the  mount. 

Entering  the  town  of  Tiberias,  we  pass 
the  warm  baths  of  Ibrahim  Pacha,  he  hav- 
ing erected  a  building  over  them.  They 
are  considered  very  efficacious  in  all  rheu- 
matic complaints.  The  present  town  con- 
tains 2500  inhabitants,  many  of  whom  are 
Jews,  who  expect  their  Messiah  to  arrive 
here  and  establish  his  throne  at  Safed.  It 
was  built  by  Herod  Antipas,  and  named 
after  his  patron,  the  Emperor  Tiberias.  It 
is  at  present  a  miserable  and  filthy  town. 
There  is  a  small  convent  built  on  the  site 
of  Peter's  house,  and  where  it  is  supposed 
the  miraculous  draught  of  fishes  was  made; 
it  is  occupied  by  a  single  monk.  If  you 
do  not  camp  out,  you  will,  of  course,  stop 
there  ;  the  view  of  the  lake  and  the  sur- 
rounding country  from  the  top  of  the  house 
is  very  fine.  Pay  the  monk  a  visii,  by  all 


CAPERNAUM. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINK  J 


KEDI:S 


means  ;  ho  is  rather  intelligent,  and  a  "jol- 
ly good  fellow." 

The  Lake  of  Tiberias,  or  Sea  of  Galileo, 
is  14  miles  in  length  and  7  in  lireadtli  at 
tlu-  widest  part.  Of  the  numerous  villages 
that  formerly  clustered  around  its  shores, 
few  now  remain,  if  we  except  the  ruins  of 
ancient  Tiberias,  which  extend  along  the 
shore  as  far  as  the  warm  baths.  "Ship- 
less  and  boatless  as  this  lake  now  is,  we 
learn  from  Josephus  that  during  the  ob- 
stinate and  sanguinary  wars  between  the 
Romans  and  the  Jews,  considerable  fleets 
of  war-ships  floated  upon  its  waters,  and 
very  sanguinary  battles  took  place  there. 
One  engagement  especially,  mentioned  by 
Josephus,  when  the  Jews  had  revolted  un- 
der Agrippa,  was  most  sanguinary,  Titus 
and  Trajan  being  present,  as  well  as  Ves- 
pa>ian,  who  commanded  the  Roman  forces. 
The  terrible  defeat  by  the  Romans  under 
Titus  of  the  revolted  Jews  of  Tarieha-a 
had  caused  vast  multitudes  of  the  fugitives 
to  seek  safety  in  the  shipping  on  Lake  Tibe- 
rias ;  but  the  indefatigable  Romans  speed- 
ily built  and  -equipped  numerous  vessels 
still  larger  than  those  of  the  Jews,  and  the 
latter  -were  totally  defeated  ;  and,  accord- 
ing to  Josephus,  both  the  lake  and  the 
shores  were  covered  with  blood  and  man- 
gled bodies  to  such  an  extent  that  the  verv 
air  was  infected.  It  is  added  that  in  this 
battle  on  Lake  Tiberias,  and  the  previous 
engagement  of  Tarichaea,  upward  of  6000 
perished ;  and,  as  if  this  horrible  amount 
of  carnage  was  insufficient,  1200  were  sub- 
sequently massacred  in  cold  blood  in  the 
amphitheatre  of  Tiberias,  and  a  consider- 
able number  were  presented  to  Agrippa  as 
slaves." 

After  Jesus  was  expelled  from  Nazareth 
he  dwelt  upon  the  shores  of  the  Sea  of  Gal- 
ilee, consequently  every  spot  upon  which 
you  tread  is  holy  ground.  Here  three  of 
the  most  eventful  years  of  his  existence 
were  passed.  In  no  other  place  did  he 
perform  so  many  miracles.  Along  these 
shores  vast  multitudes  followed  him ;  here 
his  disciples  first  heard  his  words,  and  gazed 
with  wonder  at  his  miracles  ;  now  every 
thing  is  bleak,  barren,  and  deserted. 

A  short  distance  along  the  shore,  in  a 
northerly  direction,  we  arrive  at  the  site 
of  Capernaum,  hardly  a  trace  of  which  re- 
mains. The  few  that  are  visible  are  near 
Aim  el-Tin,  "The  Fountain  of  the  Fig." 


A  little  farther  we  arrive  at  Mejdel,  the 
ancient  Magdala — but  what  wretchedness! 
Notwithstanding  the  great  fertility  of  the 
soil,  what  a  change!  In  the  time  of  our 
Savior  this  >hor.-  was  the  most  densely 
populated  portion  of  Palestine.  Tiberias, 
('apcriiaui.i,  Bethsnida,  Chorax.in,  (iaiuala, 
Hippos,  Tarirhii-a,  Scythopolis,  and  other 
cities,  were  all  densely  inhabited. 

From  Tiberius  to  Bdnias  there  are  two 
routes  :  one  by  Safed  and  Kudos- h-Naphta- 
li,  occupying  three  days ;  the  other  direct, 
occupying  two  days,  by  the  Mill  of  Mel- 
lahah  and  Dan  of  the  Scriptures.  The 
"Mill"  is  noticed  in  our  description  of 
Syria. 

The  time  from  Ain  el-Tin  to  Safed  is 
about  three  hours.  Safed  is  situated  on 
the  summit  of  a  high  mountain.  It  is 
identified  with  the  "city  set  upon  a  hill 
which  can  not  be  hid"  of  St.  Matthew,  and 
the  mountain  is  one  of  those  on  which  the 
Transfiguration  is  said  to  have  taken  place. 
The  number  of  inhabitants  is  about  4000, 
one  third  of  whom  are  Jews.  The  castle 
which  stands  on  the  northern  crest  of  the 
mountain  was  built  by  the  Crusaders,  and 
garrisoned  by  the  Knight  Templars.  In 
the  sixteenth  century  Safed  was  celebra- 
ted for  its  schools  of  Hebrew  literature. 

From  Safed  to  Kedes,  or  Kedesh-Naphta- 
li,  the  time  is  from  four  to  five  hours.  Kedes, 
formerly  one  of  the  "cities  of  refuge"  of 
the  Israelites,  is  now  rendered  intending 
by  its  ruins.  These  principally  consist  of 
two  buildings,  both  appearing  to  be  of  Ro- 
man architecture.  The  first  is  about  25 
feet  square,  and  consists  of  two  chambers, 
which  cross  each  other  at  right  angles. 
The  second,  which  stands  about  100  yards 
distant,  is  much  larger,  and  is  also  square. 
The  central  doorway  still  remains  perfect, 
and  is  richly  ornamented  with  sculpture. 
There  are  no  columns  standing,  but  sever- 
al capitals  may  be  seen  of  Corinthian  order. 
Near  by  is  a  fountain  surrounded  by  sar- 
cophagi, several  of  which  are  double,  and 
very  curious.  The  ornaments  are  almost 
entirely  defaced,  and  they  are  now  used  as 
water-troughs.  The  remainder  of  the  way 
to  lianias,  which  occupies  altout  six  hours, 
has  little  of  interest  until  we  reach  Tell  el- 
Ki'i<l;i.  the  Dan  of  the  Scriptures.  Here  is 
the  h'tinntnin  of  the  Jordan,  whose  waters 
burst  forth  with  great  force,  forming  a 
small  lake,  and  then  flowing  tvith  a  rapid 


BANIAS. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


DAMASCUS. 


current  to  the  south.  This  is  the  largest 
fountain  in  Syria,  and  the  surroundings 
are  both  picturesque  and  lovely. 

Bdnids,  or  Ccesarea  Philippi,  is  a  misera- 
ble village  of  about  fifty  houses,  rendered 
interesting  by  its  castle,  one  of  the  finest 
ruins  in  Syria.  It  stands  about  1000  feet 
above  the  town, and  is  accessible  only  from 
the  eastern  side  by  a  narrow  zigzag  path. 
The  time  from  Banias  is  about  one  hour. 
The  antiquity  of  this  castle  mounts  to  the 
time  of  the  Herods,  judging  from  its  ma- 
sonry and  beveled  stones.  It  was  first  tak- 
en by  the  Crusaders  in  1130,  but  finally  i 
returned  to  the  hands  of  the  Saracens,  in 
whose  power  it  remained  until  abandoned 
in  the  17th  century.  At  Banias  is  also  the 
upper  source  of  the  Jordan.  The  waters 
rise  in  a  cavern  formerly  dedicated  to  Pan, 
and  called  Panium,  where  Herod  built  a 
beautiful  temple  in  honor  of  Caesar  Au- 
gustus. This  spring  does  not  compare  in 
beauty  with  the  one  at  Tell  el-Kady. 

From  Banias  to  Damascus,  12  hours,  or 
two  days,  resting  at  Kefr  Hauwar,  which 
is  about  midway.    Neither  this  village  nor  j 
the  route  contain  any  thing  of  interest  to 
the  traveler. 

Damascus,  the  oldest  city  in  the  world, 
was  founded  by  Uz,  grandson  of  Noah.  It 
contains  160,000  inhabitants,  five  sixths 
of  whom  are  Mohammedans ;  the  balance 
Christians  and  Jews.  It  contains  but  one 
hotel  —  Locanda  Melluk ;  fare  $2  50  per 
day;  service  extra,  and  poor  enough.  All 
the  necessaries  of  life  are  as  dear  as  in 
London  or  Paris.  The  bazars  of  Damas- 
cus, with  the  exception  of  the  amber  and 
shoe  bazar  of  Constantinople,  are  far  ahead 
of  those  in  that  city  or  Cairo. 

The  city  of  Damascus  dates  back  over 
4000  years :  1400  years  it  was  independ- 
ent. The  Babylonian  and  Persian  sover- 
eigns governed  it  for  over  four  centuries. 
It  was  then  conquered  by  the  Greeks,  who 
governed  it  for  two  and  a  half  centuries. 
The  Romans  occupied  it  for  seven  centu- 
ries, the  Saracens  for  four  and  a  half,  and 
now  under  the  Turks.  The  great  boast 
of  its  inhabitants  is  that  the  standard  of 
the  Cross  never  yet  has  floated  over  its  bat- 
tlements. Colonel  Chesney,  a  graphic  En- 
glish writer,  says,  "  It  is  celebrated  for  its 
numerous  coffee-houses,  and  shops  of  con-  ^ 
feetioners  and  bakers,  besides  its  abundant 
supplies  of  meat,  rice,  vegetables,  and 
976 


fruits  for  the  ordinary  wants  of  the  inhab- 
itants." 

There  are  about  400  public  cook-shops, 
in  which  ready-made  dishes  are  prepared 
for  sale.  The  city  is  still  remarkable  for 
its  silk  manufactories,  and  for  its  jewelers, 
silver-smiths,  white  and  copper  smiths ; 
also  tor  its  carpenters,  trunk  and  tent  mak- 
ers ;  but  perhaps  the  various  articles  of 
leather  are  the  most  prominent  manufac- 
tures. These  are  boots,  shoes,  slippers, 
saddles  covered  with  velvet,  and  bridles 
highly  ornamented  with  cowrie-shells,  be- 
sides the  trappings  of  camels,  and  common 
equipments  of  a  caravan,  such  as  tents, 
strong  net-bags,  water-skins,  etc.  Indeed, 
nowhere  else  in  the  East  can  caravan  prep- 
arations be  made  with  the  same  advantage 
and  speed. 

There  are  in  the  city  eight  synagogues, 
one  Latin  and  three  Franciscan  convents, 
in  addition  to  four  churches,  and  some  oth- 
ers now  converted  into  mosques.  Of  the 
latter  there  are  about  200,  the  finest  of 
which  was  once  a  cathedral  dedicated  to 
St.  John  of  Damascus.  It  occupies  the 
site  of  a  Corinthian  temple,  some  of  whose 
columns  still  remain.  With  the  exception 
of  this,  and  a  mosque  at  the  northeastern 
end  of  the  city,  which  contains  some  re- 
mains of  a  temple  to  Serapis,  all  the  struc- 
tures are  modern  or  Turkish.  The  city, 
like  Cairo,  is  divided  into  quarters  for 
Christian,  Jew,  and  Turk.  The  gates  con- 
necting them  are  closed  at  sunset,  and  it  is 
difficult  to  obtain  admission  after  that  time, 
and  then  only  when  provided  with  a  lan- 
tern. 

The  exterior  of  the  houses  of  Damascus 
has  a  mean  appearance,  but  the  interior  is 
generally  very  handsome.  Nearly  every 
house  has  a  beautiful  garden,  fragrant 
with  orange-flowers  and  rose-buds,  a  spark- 
ling fountain  fed  by  the  waters  of  Abana 
or  Pharpar.  The  ceilings  are  arabesque, 
walls  mosaic,  and  floors  marble.  The 
roofs  are  terraced,  but  those  in  the  sub- 
urbs are  generally  covered  with  small  cu- 
polas. Altogether,  it  is  considered  the 
most  Oriental  city  of  the  world.  "The 
spirit  of  the  Arabian  Nights  is  prevalent  in 
all  its  streets  ;  their  fantastic  tales  are  re- 
peated to  rapt  audiences  in  the  coffee- 
houses, and  hourly  exemplified  in  the 
streets."  "Though  old  as  history  itself, 
thou  art  fresh  as  the  breath  of  spring 


DAMASCUS. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


BAALBEC. 


blooming  as  thine  own  rose-bud,  and  fra- 
grant as  thine  own  orange-flower,  O  Da- 
mascus, pearl  ofthe  East!"  The  "sights" 
of  Damascus  are  few.  The  principal  are 
the  great  mosque,  with  its  three  minarets, 
to  whirh  access  may  be  obtained  by  apply- 
ing to  the  American  consul.  This  build- 
ing occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple, 
whirli  was  surrounded  by  beautiful  colon- 
n.idc's,  some  of  which  may  be  seen  in  the 
court  of  the  mosque,  while  others  are  sur- 
rounded by  modern  buildings,  and  may  be 
seen  from  the  shoemakers'  and  jewelers' 
bazars.  The  time  when  this  temple  was 
transformed  into  a  Christian  church  is  not 
known.  When  taken  by  the  Saracens,  the 
edifice  was  equally  divided  between  Mos- 
lems and  Christians ;  but  in  705,  under 
Khalif  Walid,  the  former  took  complete 
possession.  The  present  mosque  consists 
of  a  large  rectangular  court,  on  the  south- 
ern side  of  which  is  the  mosque  itself. 
This  is  divided  into  three  naves,  supported 
by  Corinthian  columns.  The  pavement  is 
of  marble,  covered  with  mats  and  carpets  ; 
the  walls  are  also  of  marble,  but  in  some 
places  the  ancient  mosaic  still  remains, 
representing  palm-trees  and  palaces.  Near 
the  transept  rises  a  pretty  cupola,  in  carved 
wood,  built  over  a  cave  which  is  said  to 
contain  the  head  of  John  the  Baptist  in  a 
gold  casket.  Behind  an  iron  grating  in 
the  wall  the  ankles  of  Mohammed  are  also 
pointed  out.  The  three  minarets  of  the 
mosque  are  called  the  Mddinet  el-Arus, 
"the  Minaret  of  the  Bride  ;"  the  Madinet 
Isa,  "the  Minaret  of  Jesus  ;"  and  the  Ma- 
dinet el-G/iurbii/eh,  '•  the  Western  Minaret. " 
The  view  to  be  obtained  from  them  is  most 
beautiful.  The  length  of  the  entire  build- 
ing is  500  feet,  and  the  width  300.  The 
Ctistle,  which  is  800  feet  long  by  600  wide,  is 
surrounded  by  a  moat,  and  looks  very  for- 
midable from  the  outside,  but  within  is  a 
complete  wreck.  There,  in  the  "street 
called  Strait,"  we  have  the  house  of  An- 
anias, where  Paul  lodged;  also  the  scene 
where  Paul  was  let  down  from  the  wall  in 
a  basket.  This  last  is  near  the  Christian 
cemetery.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
town  is  the  traditional  scene  of  Paul's  con- 
version. One  ofthe  most  sublime  views 
is  Damascus  from  the  heights  of  Salihneh. 
Here,  it  is  said,  Mohammed,  when  a  cam- 
el-driver, first  came  in  sight  of  Damascus, 
*nd  refused  to  enter,  saying,  "Man  can 


have  but  one  paradise,  and  my  paradise  is 
fixed  above."  The  famous  Abd  cl  Kader 
resides  in  Damascus,  so  well  known  from 
his  wars  in  Algeria,  and  also  from  his  kind 
rescue  of  so  many  Christians  during  the 
massacre  of  I860. 

from  Damascus  to  Baalbec,  distance  15 
hours,  or  two  days,  resting  the  first  night 
at  Zebdany,  which  is  a  little  over  half  way. 

Four  hours  after  leaving  Damascus  we 
pass  the  Fountain  of  Fijeh,  which  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  Syria,  and  the  principal  source 
of  the  River  Barada.  In  about  five  hours 
we  pass  the  village  of  Suk  Wady  Barada, 
the  ancient  Abila,  where  Lysanias  was  mur- 
dered through  the  instrumentality  of  Cleo- 
patra. 

The  village  of  Ztbdany  contains  3500  in- 
habitants, and  is  beautifully  situated  in  the 
Vale  of  Barada,  surrounded  by  groves  of 
olive,  almond,  and  walnut  trees,  with  the 
mountains  of  anti-Lebanon  rising  in  its 
rear  to  the  height  of  7000  feet.  Situated 
1000  feet  above  Zebdany  is  the  picturesque 
village  ofBludan,  the  summer  residence  of 
the  aristocracy  of  this  section  ofthe  country. 

Baalbec.  —  Owing  to  the  discovery  of 
Jewish  architecture  amid  the  Doric,  Tus- 
can, and  Corinthian  ruins  of  Baalbec,  it  is 
by  many  considered  the  house  of  the  for- 
est of  Lebanon  which  Solomon  built  for 
his  Egyptian  wife ;  and  as  his  successors 
were  altogether  idolatrous,  it  is  not  unrca- 
sonable  to  suppose  that  this  favorite  dwell 
ing  was  consecrated  to  the  worship  of  Baal, 
or  the  Sun ;  Baalbec  of  the  Syrians  mean* 
ing  the  same  as  Heliopolis  ofthe  Greeks, 
viz.,  City  of  the  Sun.  Although  we  do 
not  know  the  origin  of  these  mighty  ruins, 
we  do  know  the  city  passed  successively 
beneath  the  rule  of  the  Persians,  Greeks, 
and  Romans,  and  was  plundered  by  the 
Arabs  in  A.D.  639;  suffered  under  various 
assailants  during  the  Crusades,  and  was 
sacked  and  dismantled  by  the  Tartars  un- 
der Tamerlane. 

u  Where  Lebanon  in  glory  rears 

Her  cedars  tn  the  sky, 

1'aalhef.  ami. I  the  Hand,  appears 

To  en  toll  tin-  onrioiis  eye, 

An;!  'mid  her  pant  walks  of  old 

Th  •  wild  pi:it  seeks  a  quiet  fold. 
u  N<>  pen  ha*  traced  thy  ancient  state, 

No  |M>et  snni;  thy  pride. 

Hut  y,  t  we  know  that  thou  \vert  great 

O'er  all  the  world  beside; 

Thy  lofty  columns  proudly  stand, 

Lone  relica  of  a  giant's  hand. 

977 


BAAZ-BEC. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


BAALBEC. 


"  But  .say,  who  built  thee  up,  thou  queen  ? 

Did  Soloraou  the  Great  ? 

Did  Sheha's  lovely  mistress  lean 

Ou  yonder  parapet, 

And  listen  to  tlu>  tinkling  Bound 

Of  Judah's  daughters  dancing  round  f 
11  The  Saracenic  prophets  taught, 

Amid  their  caverned  hull.-, 

That  devils  and  the  genii  wrought 

Thy  everlasting  walls; 

That  Solomon  designed  the  plan, 

Aud  they  built  up  what  be  began. 
"Bethoron  and  the  cities  vast, 

That  towered  in  Palestine, 

Have  crumbled  into  dust  at  last, 

But  still  thy  glories  shine. 

Six  pillars  rear  their  capitals 

An  hundred  feet  above  thy  walls, 
"  And  fresh  as  from  the  sculptor's  hand, 

The  carving  now  appears ; 

The  leaves  of  the  acanthus  stands 

The  test  of  countless  years ; 

In  grand  Corinthian  order  they 

First  catch  the  morning's  purple  ray. 
"Three  eras  speak  thy  ruined  piles, 

The  first  in  doubt  concealed ; 

The  second,  when,  amid  thy  files, 

The  Roman  clarion  pealed ; 

The  third,  when  Saracenic  powers 

Kaised  high  the  caliph's  massy  towers. 
"But,  ah!  thy  walls,  thy  giant  walls, 

Who  laid  them  in  trhe  sand  ? 

Belief  turns  pale,  and  fancy  falls 

Before  a  work  so  grand ; 

And  well  might  heathen  seers  declare 

That  fallen  angels  labored  there. 
"  No,  not  in  Egypt's  ruined  land, 

Nor  'mid  the  Grecian  isles, 

Tower  monuments  so  vast,  so  grand, 

As  Baalbec's  early  piles ; 

Baal  bee,  thou  city  of  the  Sun, 

Why  art  thou  silent,  mighty  one  ? 
"  The  traveler  roams  amid  thy  rocks, 

And  searches  after  light ; 

So  searched  the  Romans  and  the  Turks, 

But  all  was  hid  in  night ; 

Phoenicians  reared  thy  pillars  tall, 

But  did  the  genii  build  thy  wall  ?" 

Mr.  Prime  says,  "  If  all  the  ruins  of  an- 
cient Rome  that  are  in  and  around  the 
modern  city  were  gathered  together  in  one 
group,  they  would  not  equal  in  extent  the 
ruins  of  Baalbec;"  and  notwithstanding 
the  space  covered  with  these  ruins  is  only 
900  feet  long  by  500  feet  wide.  Mr.  Prime 
is  not  far  astray.  The  magnificence  and 
magnitude  of  the  columns,  and  the  Cy- 
clopean  masonry,  has  for  centuries  been  the 
wonder  of  the  world,  and  no  description 
that  we  can  possilily  give  will  approach 
the  reality.  The  temples  of  Baalhcc  stood 
upon  an  artificial  platform,  raised  above 
the  plain  30  feet,  having  immense  vaults 
underneath.  The  style  of  this  foundation 
n  very  similar  to  that  of  the  foundation  of 
978 


Solomon's  Temple  at  Jerusalem,  the  stones 
being  beveled,  but  of  a  much  larger  size. 
Three  of  the  stones  in  this  foundation  wall 
are  each  63  feet  long,  by  15  wide  and  13 
deep,  raised  to  a  height  of  20  feet.  Out- 
side of  this  platform,  on  the  southwest  cor- 
ner, there  is  a  wall  where  many  of  the 
stones  measure  30  feet  long,  by  15  wide  and 
13  deep.  On  the  platform  stood  three  tem- 
ples, the  Temple  of  the  Sun,  the  Temple  of 
Jupiter,  and  the  Circular  Temple.  The 
Temple  of  the  Sun,  or  Great  Temple,  was ' 
290  feet  long  by  160  broad,  surrounded  l>y 
Corinthian  columns  75  feet  high,  and  7  feet 
3  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base.  The 
stones  of  the  entablature,  which  reached 
from  column  to  column,  were  15  feet  high 
by  15  long,  making  the  total  height  at  the 
top  of  the  entablature  90  feet.  The  stones 
forming  the  entablature  were  fastened  to- 
gether by  wrought-iron  clamps  inserted  in 
the  ends,  one  foot  thick.  Six  only  of  these 
immense  columns  now  remain  standing. 

The  Temple  of  Jupiter  stands  on  a  plat- 
form of  its  own,  some  10  feet  lower  than 
that  of  the  Great  Temple,  and  is  the  most 
perfect  ruin  in  Syria.  Its  dimensions  on 
the  outside  are  230  feet  by  120  feet.  Our 
space  will  not  permit  us  to  give  a  detailed 
description  of  this  most  magnificent  of  tem- 
ples ;  you  must  visit,  explore,  and  study 
for  yourself.  "Even  with  arch  destroyed, 
column  overthrown,  pilaster  broken,  and 
capital  defaced,  so  vast  at  once  and  so  ex- 
quisitely beautiful  in  design  and  sculpture 
are  the  ruins  which  here  surround  the 
traveler,  that  we  scarcely  wonder  at  the 
fond  superstition  which  leads  the  nations 
to  aver,  and  stoutly  to  maintain,  that  mass- 
es so  mighty  were  never  transported  and 
upreared  by  human  hands,  but  that  the 
once  magnificent  but  now  ruined  Baalbec 
was  built  by  the  Genii,  reluctantly,  yet  ir- 
resistibly coerced  to  their  Titanic  labors  by 
the  mighty  power  of  the  seal  of  the  wise 
son  of  David.7'  About  three  fourths  of  a 
mile  west  of  the  ruins  is  the  quarry  whence 
the  larger  stones  in  the  wall  \vere  taken. 
One  still  remains  here,  hewn  all  round  and 
Underneath,  with  the  exception  of  about 
one  foot,  which  still  retains  it  in  its  native 
l>ed.  Its  dimensions  are  60  feet  long,  by 
17  wide  and  14  deep.  The  present  village 
of  Baalbec  is  a  miserable  place,  containing 
about  500  inhabitants. 

From  Baalbec  to  Beyrout,  time  16  houra, 


BEYROUT. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


TYKR 


or  two  days,  stopping  at  the  village  of  Zah- 
leh  ;  eight  hours  from  tin;  ruins,  riding  the 
whole  time  over  a  beautiful  and  fertile 
plain  admirably  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
cotton. 

Zolth  contains  a  population  of  10,000 
souls,  mostly  Christian.  It  is  beautifully 
situated  in  a  deep  glen,  surrounded  by  tall 
poplars.  The  hills  on  either  side  are  cov- 
ered with  vineyards.  After  making  the 
ascent  of  Lebanon,  the  scene  is  the  tinest 
in  Syria. 

From  Baolbec  to  the  Cedars  requires 
about  two  days  longer. 

Beyrout  contains  about  70,000  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  finely  situated  on  a  project- 
ing headland  of  the  Mediterranean.  The 
houses  are  crowded  together,  and  the  streets 
are  very  narrow ;  it  is.  however,  consider- 
ed one  of  the  healthiest  towns  in  Syria. 
In  the  suburbs  are  many  commodious 
houses,  surrounded  by  groves  of  prickly- 
pear,  mulberry,  flower,  and  fruit-trees. 
To  the  west  and  southwest  of  the  city  are 
red  sand-hills,  rising  over  300  feet  in 
height.  The  hotels  are  Belle  Vue  in  the 
town,  and  Belle  Vue  outside  the  town.  The 
latter  is  preferable,  if  you  intend  making 
any  stay.  The  landlord  is  an  honest  and 
obliging  man. 

Although  the  Berytus  of  the  Greeks  and 
Romans  was  much  celebrated  for  its  learn- 
ing, its  modern  importance  is  of  recent 
growth.  The  remains  of  antiquity  are 
very  fine.  They  consi.-t  of  a  few  pillars, 
the  ruins  of  a  moat,  and  some  traces  of 
baths.  There  are  no  public  buildings  of 
any  consequence.  The  town  derives  its 
chief  importance  from  the  cultivation  of 
the  mulberry-tree  in  the  neighborhood. 
There  are  no  wheeled  vehicles  in  Beyront, 
there  being  no  streets  fit  for  one  to  run, 
neither  is  there  a  road  in  the  country  near 
it,  if  we  except  the  fine  macadamized  road 
recently  built  to  Damascus  by  a  French 
company,  which  must  become  of  immense 
benefit  to  the  trade  and  travel  of  Beyrout. 
Agrippa  the  Elder  adorned  Beyrout  with 
beautiful  buildings.  It  was  destroyed  by 
an  earthquake  about  the  middle  of  the 
sixth  century.  In  1110  it  was  captured 
by  the  Crusaders  under  Baldwin  1..  and 
remained  in  their  possession,  with  a  short 
exception,  until  1291,  when  it  was  taken 
by  the  Turks.  It  was  bombarded  by  an 
English  fleet  in  1840  for  the  purpose  of 


driving  out  the  troops  of  Ibraham  Pacha, 
who  had  overrun  all  Syria,  and  even  threat, 
cned  the  sultan  on  his  throne. 

Should  the  traveler  find  it  impossible  to 
land  at  Jaffa,  coining  from  Egypt,  or  should 
he  land  first  at  Bey-rout,  and  wish  to  make 
the  dauble  tour  of  Syria  and  Palestine,  that 
is,  going  up  the  shore  via  Sidon,  Tyre,  Acre, 
Mount  Carmel,  Cassarea,  and  Jaffa,  and  re- 
turning to  Beyrout,  as  described  in  the  pre- 
vious pages,  he  ought  to  be  able  to  make  a 
somewhat  better  bargain  with  the  drago- 
man per  day  than  if  only  for  the  single 
tour.  This  trip  will  extend  the  time  about 
eight  days,  or  about  forty  days  in  all. 
Early  in  the  season,  say  sooner  than  May, 
very  nervous  lady  travelers  should  not  un- 
dertake this  journey,  as  there  are  numer- 
ous rivers  to  ford,  some  of  which  are  rather 
difficult,  especially  when  enlarged  by  re- 
cent rains. 

It  is  generally  near  noon  before  the  en- 
tire train  is  en  route,  and  in  five  hours  and 
a  half  we  arrive  at  Nah  ed-Damour,  the  an- 
cient Tamyras,  where  we  encamp  for  the 
night.  This  river  was  formerly  crossed 
by  a  bridge,  the  ruins  of  which  are  still 
seen ;  now  it  is  necessary  to  ford  the 
stream.  The  second  day  brings  us  to  Si- 
don, after  having  passed  in  one  hour  and 
a  half  the  Khan  Nebi  Jounes,  or  the  khan 
of  the  prophet  Jonah,  where  tradition  fixes 
the  spot  where  Jonah  was  vomited  out  of 
the  whale's  belly.  Sidon  is  most  pictur- 
esquely situated,  contains  a  fine  fortress, 
and  5000  inhabitants,  3000  of  whom  are 
Arabs.  It  was  one  of  the  most  ancient 
cities  of  the  Phoenicians,  but  from  the  time 
of  the  Christian  era  it  has  been  little  wor- 
thy of  note.  The  citadel  was  built  by 
Louis  IX.  in  1253.  In  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury it  was  the  port  of  Damascus,  and  en- 
1  the  commerce  of  Europe  with  Syr- 
ia, but  it  is  now  almost  without  a  - 
'1  In-  present  town  consists  of  a  few  narrow 
and  dirty  streets,  and  presents  nothing  of 
interest  to  the  traveler.  In  1855  a  remark- 
able sarcophagus  was  discovered,  about  a 
mile  from  the  city,  bearing  a  Phoenician 
inscription.  It  is  now  in  the  museum  of 
thf  Louvre,  at  Paris.  The  distance  fmn 
Sidon  to  Tyre  is  about  eight  hours'  actual 
traveling — a  very  long  day. 

Tyrf  is  probably  one  of  the  most  ancient 
cities  of  the  world,  having  been  founded 
2700  years  before  the  Christian  era.      1; 
879 


ACRE. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


TANTURA. 


contains  a  population  of  4000  inhabitants. 
half  Christians  and  half  Mohammedans. 
The  only  ruins  of  importance  are  those  of 
an  ancient  cathedral,  the  eastern  and  west- 
ern ends  of  which  are  standing.  This  is 
probably  the  church  where  Frederick  Bar- 
barossa  and  Origen  were  buried,  and  where 
William,  archbishop  of  Tyre,  and  historian 
of  the  Crusades,  presided  during  ten  years. 
Tyre  was  in  ancient  times  one  of  the  most 
important  cities,  both  in  the  knowledge  of 
navigation  and  of  the  arts.  The  friend- 
ship of  its  King  Hiram  and  Solomon  is  well 
known  to  the  readers  of  sacred  history. 
The  city  was  besieged  by  Alexander  the 
Great.  Palcetyrus,  the  portion  on  the  main  , 
land,  was  soon  taken,  but  the  island  resist-  j 
ed  for  7  months,  until  a  mote  was  formed 
connecting  it  with  the  shore,  when  it  was 
successfully  stormed.  It  was  taken  by  the  ; 
Crusaders  in  1124,  and  remained  in  their 
hands  until  the  taking  of  Acre  by  the  Mos- 
lems, more  than  a  century  later.  One  | 
hour  and  a  half  east  from  Tyre  is  the  tomb 
of  Hiram,  an  immense  sarcophagus  of  lime- 
stone 12  feet  long,  resting  on  a  pedestal  10 
feet  high.  From  Tyre  to  Ras  en-Nakourah 
the  distance  is  six  hours,  or  one  day's 
travel.  A  small  detour  should  be  made  on 
leaving  Tyre  to  visit  Solomon's  Wells,  and 
the  ancient  aqueduct  for  conveying  water 
to  the  city. 

Six  hours  from  Ras  en-Nakourah  and  we 
arrive  at  Acre  or  Akka  {St.  Jean  d'Acre). 
Take  the  inland  road  from  Nakourali — it  is 
far  preferable  to  the  shore  road  ;  in  truth, 
it  is  beautiful — lovely  lanes  lined  with  high 
cactus-trees.  The  population  of  Acre  is  ! 
about  5000,  700  of  whom  are  Christians. 
During  the  time  of  the  Phoenicians  it  took 
the  name  of  Ptolemais,  and  under  this  name 
is  mentioned  in  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles. 
The  fortifications  of  Acre  are  grand,  and 
exceedingly  perfect ;  they  are  also  highly 
interesting  in  a  historical  point  of  view, 
illustrating  some  of  the  most  sanguinary 
scenes  in  modern  and  mediaeval  warfare. 
It  was  here  the  Knights  of  St.  John  made 
their  great  defense  before  the  hordes  of  in- 
fidels under  the  Sultan  Ibn  Kalaoun.  who 
carried  the  works  after  a  siege  of  thirty- 
three  days.  The  Christian  citizens  and 
soldiers,  to  the  number  of  60, 000,  were  then 
either  put  to  the  sword  or  sold  into  slav- 
ery. Bonaparte  besieged  Acre  in  1799,  . 
and  would  have  carried  it  but  for  the  ar-  ; 
980 


rival  of  Sir  Sidney  Smith.  There  is  a 
beautiful  mosque  in  the  town,  which  has 
heen  finely  repaired  lately.  A  soldif-r  will 
show  you  over  and  round  the  fortifications. 
Ten  miles  over  a  lovely  beach  and  we  ar- 
rive at  Katfa,  situated  at  the  base  of  Mount 
Carmel,  or  in  eight  hours  (one  dav)  one  can 
arrive  at  Nazareth,  on  th.e  direct  road  to 
Jerusalem. 

The  ten  miles  to  Kaifa.  and  the  excur- 
sion to  Mount  Carmel  will  occupy  the 
whole  day.  You  may  either  encamp  at 
Kait'a.  and  ride  up  to  the  convent  on  Mount 
Carmel,  returning  to  the  camping-ground 
in  the  evening,  or  remain  all  night  in  the 
convent.  The  promontory  of  Mount  Car- 
mel, which  is  1850  feet  high,  projects  a  long 
distance  into  the  sea,  and  is  rich  in  ver- 
dure. The  convent  is  situated  in  one  of 
the  finest  positions  imaginable.  It  is  spe- 
cially noticed  for  being  the  scene  of  some 
of  the  miracles  of  Elias,  and  the  monks 
date  the  foundation  of  their  order  from  his 
time.  The  sons  of  the  prophet  retained 
possession  of  his  grotto  until  the  birth  of 
Christianity,  when  they  acknowledged  the 
Messiah.  Profane  writers  prove  the  ex- 
istence of  this  sanctuary,  and  it  was  visit 
ed  both  by  Pythagoras  and  Tacitus.  The 
church  of  the  convent  is  built  over  the 
grotto.  Notice  in  the  church  the  monu- 
ment erected  over  the  remains  of  Edmond 
Henri  Etienne,  Prince  de  Craon  and  of  the 
Holy  Empire.  He  died  in  Paris,  but  re- 
quested that  his  son  should  bring  his  re- 
mains here  for  interment,  which  filial  duty 
was  performed  in  1864. 

Jenin  may  be  reached  from  Mount  Car- 
mel in  about  ten  hours'  travel. 

The  distance  from  Carmel  to  Jaffa  is 
about  three  days,  encamping  the  first  night 
at  Tantura,  a  distance  of  six  hours.  In 
three  hours  you  pass  Ashkt.  This  fortress, 
which  was  very  strong,  was  the  last  point 
occupied  by  the  Crusaders.  It  held  out 
some  fifteen  days  longer  than  Acre. 

Tantura  is  the  ancient  Dora,  founded  by 
the  Pho3nicians.  There  are  few  of  the  ru- 
ins to  be  seen. 

Three  hours  from  Tantura  we  pass  the 
ruins  of  Ccesarea,  the  walls  of  which  were 
partly  rebuilt  by  St.  Louis.  This  city  play- 
ed a  most  important  part  during  the  war 
of  the  Crusaders,  as  well  as  in  the  time 
of  the  Apostles.  It  was  here  that  Paul 
was  brought  a  prisoner ;  here  he  baptized 


MAUKHALID. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


CYPRUS 


the  Centurian  Cornelius ;  from  here  he  em- 
barked for  Rome.  The  city  was  built  !>y 
Herod  the  Great,  and  named  in  honor  of 
Augustus  Ca-sar.  It  was  raptured  by  Bald- 
win I.  in  1102,  retaken  by  Saladin  in  11*7, 
retaken  by  the  Crusaders  in  1190,  again  by 
the  Mussulmans  in  1219,  and  then  by  St. 
Louis  in  1251. 

Three  hours  and  a  half  from  Caesarea  we 
arrive  at  Mnukhdlid.  The  territory  be- 
fr.veen  Tantura  and  this  place  is  under  the 
control  of  Bedouins,  and  considered  very 
unsafe.  Six  hours  and  a  half  more  and 
we  arrive  at  Jaffa.  Near  the  River  Xahr 
el-Talek,  which  we  ford,  is  the  plain  where 
Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  at  the  head  of 
100,000  Christian  warriors,  gained  a  com- 
plete victory  over  300,000  infidels.  (For 
Jaffa,  see  Index.) 

Many  travelers  land  at  Beyrout,  and 
take  the  diligence  to  Damascus.  Visiting 
Baalbec,  going  or  returning,  the  expense 
for  the  whole  trip  would  be  150  francs,  viz., 
31  francs  for  coupe  of  the  diligence  to  Da- 
mascus if  you  stop  at  Stoura,  where,  to 
take  horses  for  Baalbec,  you  must  pay  the 
whole  distance ;  then,  on  returning  from 
Baalbec,  the  same  to  Damascus — in  all,  62 
francs,  or  93  francs  both  ways.  The  pro- 
prietor of  the  small  hotel  at  Stoura  will 
furnish  you  with  a  horse,  and  guide,  and 
food  for  the  excursion  for  75  francs,  if  alone, 
but  with  a  party  of  three  or  more  persons 
the  price  is  about  55  francs.  You  can  take 
the  diligence  in  the  morning  from  Beyrout, 
and  on  its  arrival  at  Stoura  take  horse  for 
Baalbec  the  same  day.  Examine  the  ru- 
ins next  morning,  returning  to  Stoura  that 
night,  or  spend  the  whole  day  at  Baalbee, 
returning  next  morning  in  time  for  the 
diligence.  Be  particular  and  have  your 
seat  engaged  for  the  day  in  advance. 

There  are  three  lines  of  steamers  run- 
ning from  Beyrout  to  Constantinople — 
French,  Russian,  and  the  Austrian  Lloyds. 
The  Austrian  Lloyds  is  the  most  direct 
(price  to  Constantinople,  291  francs ;  if  a 
party  of  three,  20  per  cent,  discount  from 
that).  This  line  touches  only  at  Cyprus. 
Rhodes,  and  Smyrna,  making  the  trip  in 
seven  days  ;  whereas  the  Mrssageries  Im- 
periales  take  ten  days,  going  round  the 
coast,  stopping  at  Tripoli,  Latakia.  Alex- 
andretta,  Mersina,  and  Smyrna.  Most  per- 
sons prefer  the  Austrian  Lloyds  line  from 
Beyrout  to  Smyrna,  and  at  present  three 


quarters  of  the  travel  leave  the  French 
line,  the  agent  at  Beyrout  being  one  of  the 
most  impolite  and  disagreeable  persons  it 
has  been  our  bad  fortune  to  meet  with. 
The  officers  of  the  Messageries  Imperiales 
line  are  universally  noted  for  their  civility 
and  attention  to  travelers ;  he  is,  however, 
a  grand  exception. 

Tripoli,  a  Phoenician  colony,  had  in  an- 
cient times  an  extensive  commerce,  and 
was  divided  into  three  separate  quarters 
belonging  to  Tyre,  Sidon,  and  Aradus. 
During  the  time  of  the  Crusaders  it  was 
taken  by  Baldwin  II.,  but  returned  to  the 
Moslems  in  1289.  A  castle  was  built  on 
the  Mount  of  the  Pilgrims  by  Raymond, 
count  of  Toulouse,  the  ruii  3  of  which  may 
still  be  seen.  The  ancient  fortifications, 
erected  by  the  Crusaders,  merit  some  at- 
tention, several  towers  still  remaining. 

Latakia  is  one  of  the  most  thriving  and 
important  places  in  Syria,  and  was  known 
in  ancient  times  as  Laodicea.  It  is  divided 
into  two  towns,  separated  from  each  other 
by  extensive  gardens.  In  the  upper  town 
is  a  triumphal  arch,  supposed  by  some  to 
have  been  erected  in  honor  of  Julius  Cii-sar, 
and  by  others  of  Germanicus.  It  is  in  a 
state  of  good  preservation,  and  some  of  the 
ornaments  are  very  curious.  The  far- 
famed  tobacco  of  Latakia  forms  its  staple 
trade,  and  is  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  world. 
Its  general  commerce,  however,  has  great- 
ly declined  since  the  rise  of  Beyrout. 

A  lejcandretta,  the  next  city  touched  by 
the  steamers,  owes  its  name  to  Alexander 
the  Great,  but  is  not  distinguished  by  any 
important  events  either  in  ancient  or  mod- 
ern times.  It  is  far  from  salubrious,  and 
most  Europeans  who  are  obliged  to  remain 
here  make  Ballan  their  place  of  residence, 
a  charming  little  village  about  two  hours 
distant. 

Mersina,  or  Mersa,  is  a  small  port  of  lit- 
tle importance,  and  of  no  interest  to  the 
traveler. 

Taking  the  Austrian  Lloyd's  steamers, 
the  time  from  Beyrout  to  Cyprus  usually 
employed  is  eleven  hours ;  for  departures 
and  time  taken,  see  advertisement  at  end 
of  volume. 


981 


HISTORY. 


[THE  ISLAND  OF  CYPRUS.] 


HISTORY. 


THE  ISLAND  OF  CYPRUS. 

The  importance  attached  to  this  island, 
in  view  of  its  recent  annexation  by  En- 
gland, and  the  discoveries  of  its  ancient  cit- 
ies, tombs,  and  temples  by  General  Di  Ces- 
nola,  renders  it  necessary  to  give  a  more 
detailed  account  than  that  which  has  ap- 
peared in  previous  editions  of  American 
guides.  Sami  Pasha,  the  representative 
of  the  Sultan  of  Turkey,  proclaimed  the 
cession  of  the  island  of  Cyprus  to  Great 
Britain  at  Larnaca,  July  11, 1878  ;  and  Mr. 
Baring,  Secretary  of  the  British  Embassy 
981J 


at  Constantinople,  then  took  possession  of 
the  island  in  the  name  of  her  Majesty. 

Although  the  traveler  must  be  informed 
that  he  will  find  little  to  reward  his  enthu- 
siasm, with  the  exception  of  one  or  two 
fallen  pillars  (if  classic  recollection  has 
compelled  him  to  visit  the  interior  of  the 
island),  yet.  from  an  historical  point  of  view, 
there  are  few  places  in  Europe  or  Asia  that 
can  equal  it.  Civilization  began  among 
its  classic  groves,  and  embraces  a  varied 
panorama  of  action.  It  was  originally 
peopled  by  the  Phoenicians,  but  was  after- 
wards colonized  by  the  Greeks,  the  first  of 
whom  was  Teucer,  son  of  Telamon,  who 
dedicated  the  splendid  shrine  at  Paphos  to 
Venus,  the  Goddess  of  Love.  The  cities 
of  Amathonte  and  Idalium  were  also  con- 
secrated to  the  same  deity. 

Cyprus  was  occupied  in  succession  by 
the  Persians,  Egyptians,  Romans,  and  the 
later  Greeks  of  the  Byzantine  Empire, 
from  whom  it  was  captured  l>y  the  Sara- 
cens ;  and,  after  having  submitted  to  va- 
rious denominations,  was  taken  by  Rich- 
ard Coeur  de  Lion,  A.D.  1191.  During  the 
third  crusade  the  Emperor  Comnenius  had 
the  impudence  to  repel  the  English  fleet, 
which  sought  shelter  during  a  great  storm. 
This  so  enraged  Richard  that  he  captured 
the  island,  gave  it  first  to  the  Knights 
Templars,  and  afterwards  to  Guy  de  Lusig- 
nan,  a  Frenchman,  King  of  Jerusalem,  in 
exchange  for  that  title.  De  Lusignan  was 
the  last  king  of  Jerusalem.  Having  been 
vanquished  by  Saladin  at  the  battle  of  Ti- 
berius, he  was  forced  to  renounce  his  title, 
but  assumed  it  again  on  being  liberated 
by  Richard.  He  reigned  over  the  island 
but  two  years,  when,  dying,  he  left  it  to  his 
posterity,  who  reigned  283  years  (nineteen 
sovereigns).  It  was  sold  to  the  Venetians 
by  Catherine  de  Lusignan,  widow  of  James 
III.,  in  1489.  The  Turks  captured  it  in 
1570,  since  which  time  it  has  been  reduced 
to  a  most  deplorable  state,  only  about  one 
fifteenth  part  of  the  soil  being  now  under 
cultivation. 

The  kings  of  Italy  assume  the  title  of 
King  of  Cyprus  and  Jerusalem,  Charlotte 
de  Lusignan,  Queen  of  Cyprus,  having,  in 
1458,  espoused  a  prince  of  Savoy,  who  was 
dethroned  by  the  bastard  James  II.  The 
former,  when  dying,  left  the  throne  to  his 
nephew,  Charles  I.  of  Savoy. 

Cyprus  has  gone  through  the  usual  vici?- 


GEOGRAPHY. 


[THE  ISLAND  OF  CYPRUS.] 


NICOSIA. 


situdcs  of  places  of  great  importance  over 
•which  the  tide  of  conquest  bus  rolled.  Its 
name  is  blended  with  familiar  scenes  in  j 
Biblical  history,  as  it  was  one  of  the  first 
countries  in  which  Christianity  was  estab- 
lished. Here  Paul  and  Barnabas  preached, 
and  here  Elymas  was  struck  blind  before 
the  proconsul  Sergins  Paulus.  It  will  be 
seen  from  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles,  chap, 
xiii.,  that  in  the  time  of  the  Romans  the 
Jews  formed  a  large  portion  of  the  popula- 
tion of  the  island.  At  the  present  time 
two  thirds  of  the  inhabitants  are  Greeks. 

The  island  measures  148  miles  in  length. 
Its  easterly  point,  Cape  St.  Andrea,  is  only 
about  sixty  miles  from  Latakia,  one  of  the 
most  prominent  places  in  Syria,  noted  for 
its  trade  in  the  far -famed  Latakia  to- 
bacco. The  extreme  width  of  the  isl- 
and is  about  forty  miles.  Two  mount- 
ain ranges  stretch  along  its  northern  and 
southern  coasts,  between  which  lies  a  fer- 
tile plain,  watered  by  a  winter  torrent, 
called  Pedia,  or  Lefkosia.  The  entire  isl- 
and possesses  great  natural  fertility,  but 
by  the  misgovernment  of  centuries  it  ap- 
pears almost  desolate.  Previous  to  its 
possession  by  Great  Britain  it  formed  a 
separate  pashalic,  of  which  Nicosia  (or 
Lefkosia)  was  the  capital.  It  contains 
about  '210,000  inhabitants. 

The  principal  products  of  Cyprus  are 
wine,  salt,  olive-oil,  cotton,  silk,  wool,  tim- 
ber, wheat,  hemp,  and  pitch. 

The  beauty  of  the  women  of  Cyprus  has 
been  proverbial  since  the  day  when  the 
Cyprian  Venus  called  this  isle  her  own. 
They  are  tall  and  slightly  formed,  their 
hair  hanging  down  below  the  waist  in 
sumptuous  braids.  A  Greek  writer  says 
he  may  trust  himself  to  one  and  all  the 
bright  cities  of  the  yEgean,  and  may  still 
weigh  anchor  with  a  heart  entire,  but  that 
so  surely  as  he  ventures  upon  the  enchant- 
ed isle  of  Cyprus,  so  surely  will  he  know 
the  rapture  or  the  bitterness  of  love.  But 
still  Cyprus  is  not  healthy,  especially  to 
strangers.  In  summer  its  rivers  (which 
are  mere  brooks  in  winter)  become  dry  ra- 
vines; and  the  well-water  is  tainted  with 
nitre,  and  most  unhealthy  to  those  not  of 
tli<!  island  born.  The  English  soldiers 
have  suffered  much,  especially  those  sta- 
tioned in  the  vicinity  of  Larnaca,  which  is 
considered  the  most  unhealthy  portion  of 
the  island,  on  account  of  the  salt  lakes, 


which  extend  almost  to  that  town.  The 
wines  of  Cyprus  are  famous,  and  form  one 
of  the  principal  articles  of  commerce. 

Lnrnactt  is  the  maritime  capital  of  the 
island,  and  contains  nearly  10,000  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  built  on  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Citium.  and  is  divided  into  two  parts — the 
town,  which  is  reached  from  the  landing  in 
about  ten  minutes  (here  the  foreign  con- 
suls reside);  and  the  marine  or  commer- 
cial quarter,  which  extends  from  the  land- 
ing along  the  shore  to  the  town,  present- 
ing in  the  distance  a  very  agreeable  pict- 
ure. The  traveler  has  sufficient  time  tc 
visit  Larnaca  while  the  steamer  stops.  It 
is  expected  that  the  British  government 
will  construct  an  artificial  harbor.  At  the 
present  time  (1879)  the  Austrian  Lloyd 
steamers  can  not  come  nearer  the  shore 
than  half  a  mile.  The  fare  to  shore  and 
return  is  about  5  francs — 1  franc  each  if 
over  five  persons. 

There  is  little  to  be  seen  in  the  town, 
either  antique  or  monumental.  The  houses 
are  principal!}-  constructed  with  mud  and 
shells,  with  few  windows.  The  inhabit- 
ants are  mostly  Greeks.  The  principal 
buildings  are  the  Greek  Church  ffSt.  Laza- 
rus, which  dates  from  the  10th  century,  and 
the  Latin  Church  and  Convent  of  the  Ber- 
nardines.  Larnaca  was  the  birthplace  of  the 
famous  philosopher  Zeno,  who  founded  the 
sect  of  Stoics,  and  taught  in  Athens  the 
doctrine  that  men  should  be  free  from  pas- 
sion and  unmoved  by  joy  or  grief.  Here, 
also,  died  the  celebrated  Athenian  general 
Cimon,  while  besieging  the  town,  B.C.  449. 

It  would  be  useless  at  the  present  time 
!  (1879)  to  give  a  detailed  account  of  the 
time  and  manner  of  reaching  the  differ- 
ent places  of  interest  on  the  island,  as 
the  British  government  will  no  doubt  not 
only  make  good  roads,  but  put  some- 
,  thing  better  on  them  than  the  kiradyis 
or  agoyates,  which,  in  1877,  required  13 
hours  to  reach  Nicosia,  the  political  capital 
of  the  island :  1  hour  from  Larnaca  to  A  ra- 
dipo;  5  hours  more  to  Athitno:  1  h.  30  in. 
to  Piroghi ;  4  hours  vo  Aglani;  and  1  h. 
30  in.  to  Nicosia.  During  this  route  your 
guide  (for  you  must  have  one)  will  point 
out  the  numerous  ruins  of  antiquity,  as 
well  as  those  of  the  Middle  Ages,  but  es- 
pecially those  of  the  reign  of  the  Lusignans. 

Nicosia  is  situated  on  the  northern  side 
of  the  island,  and  contains  about  12,000  in- 
981§ 


ClTREA. 


[THE  ISLAND  OF  CYPRUS.] 


Km. 


habitants.  It  was  built  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Tremithus,  and,  under  the  Lusig- 
nans,  was  quite  an  important  town.  When 
it  passed  from  that  family  to  the  Vene- 
tians it  began  to  decline.  It  was  taken 
from  them  by  Selim  II.,  in  1570,  when 
20,000  inhabitants  were  butchered  by  the 
conqueror.  It  never  recovered  from  this 
disaster. 

This  town  is  at  the  present  time  the  seat 
of  a  Greek  archbishopric.  Visit  its  Grand 
Mosque,  formerly  the  Cathedra!  of  St.  So- 
phia, where  the  kings  of  Cyprus  were  for- 
merly crowned,  and  where  one  can  still  see 
numerous  monuments  of  the  notables  of 
the  land,  but  greatly  mutilated  by  the 
Turks.  Visit  the  Church  of  St.  Dominique, 
which  contains  the  tombs  of  the  Lusignans. 

The  male  population  of  Nicosia  are  most- 
ly devoted  to  the  tanning  of  morocco  skins, 
10,000  of  which  are  annually  exported  to 
different  places  in  the  Levant.  The  fe- 
male portion  of  the  population  are  mostly 
occupied  in  silk  embroidery  and  net-work. 

In  an  easterly  direction,  two  hours  from 
Nicosia,  is  Citrea,  one  of  the  most  romantic 
places  on  the  island.  This  is  the  ancient 
Chytra,  one  of  the  nine  capitals  of  the  isl- 
land ;  nothing  of  importance  to  be  seen. 
Nine  hours  from  Citrea  is  St.  Elie,  where 
there  is  a  Maronite  convent.  Then  Can- 
tara  (two  hours),  where  are  the  ruins  of  a 
chateau  and  convent  destroyed  by  the  Ve- 
netians. At  St.  Barnabas  (five  hours  far- 
ther) there  is  a  celebrated  Greek  convent, 
near  which  is  the  grotto  where  the  body 
of  that  apostle  was  found,  and  close  to  it 
the  autographic  manuscript  of  the  Gospel 
of  St.  Matthew ;  by  reason  of  which  dis- 
covery the  bishops  here  have  considered 
themselves  almost  independent  of  the  Pa- 
triarch. Near  the  convent  may  also  be 
seen  the  ruins  of  the  prison  where  St.  Cath- 
arine was  confined  before  being  sent  to 
Egypt.  At  Eski-Mouqa,  eight  hours  dis- 
tant, one  sees  that  very  little  remains  of 
the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Salamis  of  Cyprus, 
situated  between  the  Greek  Chapel  of  St. 
Catharine  and  the  sea,  which  consist  of  a 
portion  of  a  wall  surrounding  a  mass 
of  rubbish,  and  a  port  inclosed  by  two 
jetties.  To  the  south  is  a  marsh,  over 
which  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  road; 
also  the  remains  of  an  aqueduct,  coming 
from  the  east.  Salamis  was  founded  by 
Teucer,  and  was,  after  the  conquest  of  the 
981J 


Persians,  a  small  independent  kingdom, 
and  the  principal  city  on  the  island ;  but 
its  frequent  wars,  an  earthquake,  and  the 
prosperity  of  its  neighbor,  Famagusta, 
caused  its  ruin.  One  hour  to  the  south  is 

Famagusta,  situated  on  the  eastern  coast, 
which  is  occupied  entirely  by  Turks.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Ptolemy 
Philadelphus.  It  became  quite  important 
under  the  Lusignans  and  Genoese.  The 
defenses  it  possesses  were  received  from 
the  Venetians.  It  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Turks  on  August  1, 1571,  after  a  four 
months'  siege.  The  conqueror,  in  viola- 
tion of  his  oath  given  to  Bragidino,  the 
brave  defender,  caused  that  hero  to  be 
skinned  alive,  and,  stuffing  the  skin  with 
straw,  hoisted  it  to  the  top  of  one  of  his 
galleys ! 

The  ancient  citadel  serves  at  present  for 
a  prison.  The  principal  object  of  attrac- 
tion is  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Nicholas.  It 
was  here  the  Lusignans  were  crowned 
kings  of  Jerusalem.  The  arcades  are  sup- 
ported by  granite  columns,  which  bear  the 
arms  of  various  patrician  families  of  Genoa 
and  Venice,  and  which  recall  the  names  of 
numerous  governors  of  Cyprus.  Behind 
the  arcades  may  be  seen  the  ruins  of  the 
governor's  palace.  Several  other  church- 
es existed,  which  have  been  changed  into 
mosques. 

From  Famagusta  back  to  Larnaca  takes 
nine  hours. 

To  make  the  excursion  from  Larnaca  to 
Limasol,  A  mathonte,  and  Paphos,  which  are 
situated  along  the  coast  to  the  south  and 
southwest,  will  hardly  repay  the  traveler, 
unless  he  intends  making  a  prolonged  stay. 
In  the  first  place,  there  is  but  little  to  see ; 
and  in  the  next  place,  the  traveling  by  land 
is  very  difficult,  on  account  of  the  spurs  of 
Mt.  Olympus,  which  descend  to  the  coast. 
The  time  required  to  reach  Bajfn  by  land 
is  26  hours. 

If  the  weather  is  pleasant,  a  boat  might 
be  hired  to  make  the  same  excursion  by 
the  coast. 

Two  hours  from  Larnaca  the  large  vil- 
lage of  KM  is  reached.  It  is  built  on  the 
site  of  an  ancient  Phoenician  city,  and  con- 
tains a  few  ruins.  Ten  hours  farther  the 
small  port  otLimcuol  is  reached,  where  the 
Turks  first  landed  (in  1571)  when  they  con- 
quered the  island.  The  town  does  consid- 
erable business  in  native  wines. 


A  MATH  IS. 


[THE  ISLAND  OF  CYPRUS.] 


EPHESUS. 


Nearly  four  miles  to  the  north  of  Lima- 
sol  are  the  ruins  of  the  celebrated  .4  mathus, 
noted  in  antiquity  us  the  capital  of  the 
Cyprian  kingdom,  and  for  the  honors  paid 
to  Venus,  whose  famous  temple  once  stood 
here.  The  city  was  originally  l>uilt  by  the 
Phoenicians,  but  was  destroyed  during  the 
Crusades  by  Richard  Cceur  de  Lion,  and 
Lima-sol  inherited  its  ruins. 

One  hour  from  the  coast  stands  the  cel- 
ebrated "Tower  of  the  Commanders,''  built 
by  the  Knights  Templars,  and  afterwards 
held  by  the  Knights  of  Rhodes.  It  is  a 
handsome  Gothic  monument.  The  inte- 
rior is  very  curious ;  notice  the  arms  of  the 
two  orders.  A  magnificent  view  may  be 
had  from  the  summit.  The  wine  from  this 
vicinity  is  the  best  produced  on  the  island. 

Three  hours  farther  and  Episcopi  is 
reached.  The  town — the  ancient  Curium 
— is  situated  in  a  most  beautiful  position, 
and  was  at  one  time  one  of  the  nine  capi- 
tals of  the  island. 

The  route  now  is  through  a  perpetual 
garden,  passing  the  town  of  Pissouri,  on 
the  summit  of  a  hill,  and  A  rdimon,  which 
is  built  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  city. 

In  three  hours  Kouklia,  the  ancient  Pa- 
phos, is  reached.  This  was  the  favorite 
residence  of  Venus,  and  the  ruins  of  her 
temple  may  still  be  seen  a  short  distance 
from  the  coast.  With  the  assistance  of 
medals  found  on  the  spot,  the  Danish  anti- 
quary Hentsch  has  been  able  to  make  a 
plan  of  the  temple.  Paphos  was  ruined 
by  an  earthquake. 

One  hour  from  Kouklia  is  Jeroskypos 
(Holy  Garden).  Tradition  here  places  the 
garden  and  baths  of  Venus. 

Two  hours  from  Jeroskypos,  on  the 
south-western  coast,  is  the  poor  village  of 
Bajfa,  the  ancient  Xota  Paphos.  This  place 
affords  but  little  to  reward  the  enthusiasm 
of  the  traveler,  who  will  seek  in  vain  for 
positive  vestiges  of  the  celebrated  temple  ; 
but  the  ruins  which  cover  the  ground  at- 
test the  importance  of  the  town,  destroyed, 
it  is  supposed,  by  earthquakes. 

For  particulars  of  the  recent  excavations 
and  discoveries  on  the  island,  see  General 
Di  Cesnola's  "  Cyprus :  its  Ancient  Cities, 
Tombs,  and  Temples."  For  a  good  histor- 
ical account  of  the  island,  read  Count  Mas 
Latries's  "  History  of  the  Island  of  Fertil- 
ity.'' The  English  have  reduced  the  six- 
teen governmental  districts  to  six ;  and 


they  think  that,  under  a  better  system  of 
sanitary  arrangements,  fever  will  soon  dis- 
appear, as  it  has  from  the  Ionian  Islands. 

From  Cyprus  to  Rhodes  is  thirty  hours. 
This  island  embraces  an  area  of  460  square 
miles,  and  is  attractive  to  the  traveler  both 
for  its  delightful  climate  and  the  ruins  of 
the  classic  and  mediaeval  periods  in  which 
it  abounds.  It  received  its  name  from  the 
quantity  of  roses  growing  on  the  island, 
and  which  may  be  seen  stamped  on  ancient 
medals.  In  1309  Rhodes  became  the  prop 
erty  of  the  Knights  of  the  Order  of  St.  John, 
under  whose  dominion  it  remained,  not- 
withstanding numerous  attempts  made  by 
the  Saracens  to  gain  possession,  until  1523, 
when  it  was  surrendered  to  Solyman  the 
Magnificent,  after  a  siege  of  five  months. 
The  port  and  town  of  Rhodes  is  situated 
at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  island. 
The  different  palaces  of  the  Crusaders  are 
well  worth  seeing.  The  "  Street  of  the 
Knights,"  or  the  Rue  des  Chevaliers,  has 
on  many  of  its  houses  the  armorial  bear- 
ings of  the  knights  sculptured  on  shields 
over  the  doors.  At  the  upper  end  stand 
the  ruins  of  the  Church  of  St.  John,  the 
tower  of  which  alone  remained  standing 
after  the  explosion  of  the  powder  maga- 
zine in  1856.  The  place  in  the  harbor  in 
which  the  Colossus  of  Rhodes  stood  is 
pointed  out. 

From  Rhodes  to  Smyrna  the  time  is  28 
hours.  In  one  hour  you  pass  the  island 
of  Symi,  noted  for  the  expertness  of  its 
male  and  female  divers,  and  for  corals  and 
sponges.  We  now  pass  numerous  islands, 
many  of  them  famous  in  Grecian  history, 
such  as  Cos,  Samos,  Scio,  etc. 

The  time  from  Smyrna  to  Constantino- 
ple is  30  hours.  Should  the  traveler  in- 
tend returning  by  way  of  the  Danube,  he 
had  better  take  a  steamer  to  Syra,  which 
connects  with  a  line  to  Athens ;  then  from 
Athens  direct  to  Constantinople.  Travel- 
ers who  visit  Italy  on  their  way  to  the 
Holy  Land  often  return  by  this  route. 

Immediately  on  landing  at  Smyrna  an 
arrangement  should  be  made  with  the 
railroad  company  for  a  special  train  to 
visit  the  ruins  of  Ephesus.  As  there  is  but 
one  regular  train  between  Smyrna  and 
Aiden  (a  town  of  80,000  inhabitant-  i  daily. 
you  can  not  return  by  the  train  from 
Aiden,  since  it  starts  at  the  same  hour 
as  that  from  Smyrna,  the  Ephesus  station 
981J 


EPHESUS. 


[SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE.] 


EPHESCS. 


being  about  half-way,  which  has  very  poor 
accommodations  for  lodger?,  and  that  only 
for  four  or  five  persons.  The  time  by  the 
regular  train  is  2  h.  30  m.,  but  the  special 
train  runs  it  in  1  h.  30  m.  A  special  train 
costs  about  $60,  and  $5  for  each  passenger 
in  addition. 

Ephesus  stood  as  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable cities  of  the  world  long  before 
history  commenced.  It  was  the  cradle  of 
Hellenic  mythology  and  the  metropolis  of 
the  Ionian  confederacy.  It  was,  next  to 
Jerusalem,  the  most  holy  of  Christian  cities, 
and,  next  to  Athens,  the  most  memorable 
982 


for  its  schools  of  art ;  but  its  ruins  are 
now  scarcely  visible,  which  extended  over 
a  great  space.  With  the  exception  of  the 
ranges  of  subterranean  vaults,  but  little 
remains  of  its  colossal  temple. 


The  Austrian  Lloyd  steamers  touch  at 
Beyrout  every  week,  to  and  from  Trieste, 
Athens,  Constantinople,  Syra,  Smyrna, 
Alexandria,  Port  Said,  and  Salonica  (for 
dates  and  time  of  passage,  see  advertise- 
ment at  the  end  of  volume). 


TURKEY  AND  GREECE. 


SMYRNA. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


DARDANELLES. 


SMYH.XA  stands  foremost  amongthe  cit- 
ies of  Asi;i  .Minor.  It  contains  a  popula- 
tion of  180,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  em- 
porium of  the  Greek  trade  of  the  Levant. 
Principal  hotel,  the  lli'itcl  d' Europe.  The 
streets  are  narrow  and  dirty,  the  houses 
mean  and  gloomy  in  external  aspect,  ex- 
cepting tlioso  situated  in  the  Frank  quar- 
ter. The  commerce  is  chiefly  in  the  hands 
of  the  English,  French,  Italian,  and  Dutch 
merchants.  Smyrna  is  the  chief  seat  and 
home  of  the  Greek  race  in  this  portion  of 
Asia.  It  is  one  of  the  seven  cities  that 
laid  claim  to  being  the  birthplace  of  Ho- 
mer, and  a  temple  was  erected  by  its  in- 
habitants, called  ffomereion,  with  a  statue 
of  the  poet.  A  grotto  is  also  shown  where 
he  is  said  to  have  written  part  of  his  Iliad. 
The  origin  of  Smyrna  is  ascribed  \>y  many 
to  Alexander  the  Great.  It  is  the  only 
city  addressed  by  the  Apostle  St.  John 
which  has  retained  its  importance  down  to 
the  present  day.  Christianity  was  early 
introduced  here,  and  Polycarp,  the  first 
bishop  of  the  city,  suffered  martyrdom  in 
its  midst  in  166.  Smyrna  was  once  the 
central  depot  of  commerce  in  Asia  Minor; 
the  products  of  Persia  and  Armenia  were 
brought  here  by  caravans,  and  exchanged 
for  European  goods.  Steam  navigation 
has  created  a  change.  The  caravans  now 
stop  at  Trebizond,  coming  from  Persia  and 
Armenia,  while  the  vessels  that  touch  at 
different  points  along  the  coast  of  Asia 
Minor  render  the  expedition  of  their  arti- 
cles of  commerce  to  Smyrna  unnecessary. 
Figs  are  at  present  the  principal  product 
of  Smyrna,  and  their  export  is  very  large. 
The  Caravan  Uridge,  or  Pont  des  Cararnnns. 
is  generally  visited  by  travelers ;  also  the 
castle  on  Mount  Pagns.  The  view  from 
the  latter  is  truly  magnificent. 

From  Smyi-ntt  to  Constantinople,  fare  .*!!>. 
Steamers  twice  a  week  ;  Austrian  Lloyds, 
every  week ;  French  steamers,  every  two 
weeks.  Steamers  sail  directly  to  Mar- 
seilles or  Messina. 

The  trip  through  the  Archipelago  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting  during  our  entire 
route,  passing,  as  we  do,  so  many  beautiful 
islands,  so  much  celebrated  in  ancient  his- 
tory. Rhodes,  so  distinguished  in  ancient 


times  for  its  liberty,  learning,  and  valor, 
and  in  modern  times  for  its  defenses,  con- 
ducted by  the  Knights  of  St.  John  of  Jeru- 
salem. Patmos,  where  St.  John  wrote  the 
Revelations,  having  been  banished  here 
by  the  Emperor  Domitian  for  preaching 
the  Gospel.  Samog,  celebrated  in  heathen 
mythology,  is  the  birthplace  of  Juno.  It 
was  the  birthplace  of  Pythagoras,  and  for 
a  long  time  the  residence  of  Herodotus, 
who  here  composed  the  greater  portion  of 
his  celebrated  history.  The  natives  were 
noted  for  their  great  bravery  in  the  in- 
surrectionary wars  of  Genoa.  Scio,  the 
"paradise  of  the  Levant,"  and,  previous 
to  the  extermination  of  its  inhabitants  by 
the  Turks,  the  richest  and  most  prosper- 
ous island  in  the  Archipelago.  Mytilene, 
the  ancient  Lesbos,  which  rivaled  Athens 
in  learning  and  the  arts,  the  birthplace  of 
the  most  celebrated  of  Greek  poetesses, 
and  where  the  "  burning  Sappho  lored  and 
sung."  Tenedos,  where  the  Greeks  con- 
cealed themselves  when  they  pretended  to 
abandon  the  siege  of  Troy. 

We  now  enter  the  Dardanelles,  stopping 
a  short  time  at  the  town  of  Dardanelles. 
A  few  miles  farther  on  we  arrive  atAbydos, 
celebrated  by  Leander,  and  also  by  Byron 
in  the  following  verses : 

"If,  in  the  month  of  dark  December, 
Leander,  who  was  nightly  wont 
(What  maid  will  not  the  tale  remember!) 
To  cross  thy  stream,  broad  Hellespont! 

"If,  when  the  wintry  tempp't  roar'd, 
He  sped  to  Hero,  nothing  loth, 
And  thus  of  old  thy  current  pour'rt, 
Fair  Venus!  how  I  pity  both! 

"For  me,  degenerate  modern  wretch, 
Though  in  the  genial  month  of  May, 
My  dripping  limbs  I  faintly  stretch. 
And  think  I've  done  a  feat  to-day. 

'•But  dnee  he  crossed  the  rapid  tide, 
According  to  the  doubtful  story, 
To  woo — and — Lord  knows  what  beside, 
And  swam  for  love,  as  I  for  glory ; 

"'Twere  hard  to  say  who  fared  the  best; 
Sad  mortal.-'!  thus  the  gods  still  plague  you; 
He  lost  hU  labor,  I  my  jest; 
For  he  was  drown'd,  and  I've  the  ague." 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


CONSTANTINOPLE, 
the  capital  of  the  Turkish  empire,  con- 
tains 600,000  inhabitants  —  some  author- 
ities put  it  as  low  as  500,000;  330,000 
of  these  are  Christians  of  various  denomi- 
nations. Hotel  de  Byzance,  new  and  very 
comfortable.  Hotel  d'  Anylvterre  is  a  very 
fine  house,  kept  by  Misseri,  an  English- 
man, at  the  modest  rate  of  18  francs  per 
day,  with  3  francs  for  lunch,  making  $4 
per  day — the  most  expensive  in  Europe ; 
Hotel  Belle  Vue,  more  moderate.  Constan- 
tinople was  founded  by  Byzas,  from  whom 
it  derived  the  name  of  Byzantium,  656  B.C. 
It  was  rebuilt  by  Constantine  in  A. I).  328, 
who  made  it  the  capital  of  the  Roman  em- 
pire, since  which  time  it  has  borne  his 
name.  On  the  subjugation  of  the  Western 
Empire  by  the  barbarians,  Constantinople  i 
continued  to  be  the  capital  of  the  Eastern 
Empire.  It  has  sustained  numerous  sieges, 
but  has  only  been  twice  taken :  first  in 
1204,  by  the  Crusaders,  who  retained  it  till 
1261 ;  and  lastly  by  the  Turks,  under  Mo- 
hammed II.,  1453,  when  the  last  remnant 
of  the  Roman  Empire  was  finally  suppress- 
ed. The  city  occupies  one  of  the  finest  nat- 
ural situations  in  the  world.  It  is  built 
upon  a  tongue  of  land  of  a  triangular  shape, 
•which  lies  upon  the  west  side  of  the  south- 
ern entrance  to  the  Bosphoms.  On  the 
northern  side  of  the  city  is  a  branch  or  off- 
set of  the  Bosphorus,  called  the  Golden 
Horn,  which  forms  a  magnificent  harbor ; 
and  beyond  this  are  the  suburbs  of  Pera. 
Galatia,  and  Tophann,  the  former  of  which 
are  the  principal  seats  of  trade,  and  the 
residence  of  nearly  all  classes  of  foreigners. 
The  aspect  of  the  city,  when  approached 
by  sea,  is  very  beautiful,  exhibiting  to 
view  a  crowd  of  domes  and  minarets,  back- 
ed by  the  dark  foliage  of  the  cypress  and 
other  trees,  which  shade  the  extensive  cem- 
eteries beyond  the  walls ;  but  the  interior 
is  a  perfect  labyrinth  of  winding,  steep, 
and  dirt}'  streets,  without  names  or  plan  of 
any  kind,  and  with  houses  which  are,  for 
the  most  part,  built  of  wood,  and  present 
dead  walls  to  the  street,  light  and  air  be- 
ing, as  in  all  Oriental  towns,  derived  from 
the  interior  court-yards. 

The  author  of  Eothen  says,  "  Nowhere 

else  does  the  sea  come  so  close  home  to  a 

city  as  to  the  Mohammedan  capital.    There 

axe  no  pebbly  shores,  no  sand-bars,  no 

984 


slimy  river-beds,  no  black  canals,  no  locks 
nor  docks  to  divide  the  very  heart  of  tho 
place  from  the  deep  waters.  If,  being  in 
the  noisiest  mart  of  Stamboul,  you  would 
stroll  to  the  quiet  side  of  the  way,  amid 
those  cypresses  opposite,  you  will  cross  the 
fathomless  Bosphorus ;  if  you  would  go 
from  your  hotel  to  the  bazars,  you  must 
pass  by  the  bright  blue  pathway  of  the 
Golden  Horn,  that  can  earn'  a  thousand 
sail  of  the  line.  You  are  accustomed  to 
the  gondolas  that  glide  among  the  palaces 
of  St.  Mark  ;  but  here  at  Stamboul  it  is  a 
hundred-and-twenty-gun  ship  that  meets 
you  in  the  streets.  Venice  strains  out 
from  the  steadfast  land,  and  in  old  times 
would  send  forth  the  chief  of  the  state  to 
woo  and  wed  the  reluctant  sea ;  but  the 
stormy  bride  of  the  Doge  is  the  bowing 
slave  of  the  Sultan.  She  comes  to  his  feet 
with  the  treasures  of  the  world ;  she  bears 
him  from  palace  to  palace;  by  some  un- 
failing witchcraft  she  entices  the  breeze  to 
follow  her,  and  fan  the  pale  cheek  of  her 
lord  ;  she  lifts  his  armed  navies  to  the  very 
gates  of  his  garden  ;  she  watches  the  walls 
of  his  serail;  she  stilles  the  intrigues  of  his 
ministers ;  she  quiets  the  scandals  of  his 
court;  sheextinguishe*  his  rivals,  and  hush- 
es his  naughty  wives  all  one  by  one :  so 
vast  are  the  wonders  of  the  deep !" 

Constantinople  is  surrounded  by  walls, 
and,  although  many  of  them  were  built  15 
centuries  ago,  they  are  still  tolerably  per- 
fect. The  city  was  originally  entered  by 
43  gates:  seven  only  now  exist. 

The  principal  objects  of  interest  to  be 
seen  are,  first,  the  Seraglio,  which  is  of  a 
triangular  shape,  and  nearlj-  three  miles  in 
circumference.  It  was  built  by  Moham- 
med II.,  and  occupies  the  site  of  the  an- 
cient Byzantium.  It  is  shut  in  by  lofty 
walls  with  gates  and  towers,  and  the  inte- 
rior space  irregularly  covered  with  detach- 
ed suites  of  apartments,  baths,  mosques, 
kiosks,  gardens,  and  groves  of  cypress, 
without  any  manner  of  order,  the  build- 
ings having  been  erected  at  different  pe- 
riods, according  to  the  tastes  of  the  success- 
ive sultans.  The  outside  court  is  free  to 
all  persons,  and  is  entered  by  the  Sublime 
Porte,  from  which  the  Ottoman  empire 
takes  its  name.  It  is  very  hit;!),  and  semi- 
circular in  its  arch,  covered  with  Arabic 
inscriptions,  and  kept  by  50  porters.  On 
either  side  of  the  gateway  there  is  a  niche, 


TURK  ELY 


EUROPE 


yy   /    /'   /;   /,   -  /    <•   <>  I  A     S     I 


Rook 


£*   •*• ?*&•*&-       *  -"*  resin 

_- *-'f  J^^jfc^  -"  _^  I   :  T L  -      ^ 


K  ASIA 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


[  in.'KEV  AND  GREECE.] 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


where  the  heads  of  state  offenders  arc  pub- 
licly exposed.  Tlr.-  Seraglio  is  at  present 
occupied  l>v  the  wives  of  the  present  sultan's 
late  lather,  the  sult:m  residing  in  his  new 
palace  on  the  Bosphonis.  opposite  Scuta:  i. 
The  Mosque  "fxt.  Sii/ifil-i  in;iy  lie  visited 
by  a  liriiKin  from  the  sultan:  daring  >ome 
dif  the  feasts,  however,  this  can  not  be  ob- 
tained. Apply  to  our  minister,  who  will 
ni:ike  the  necessary  arrangements.  This 
principal  mosque  stands  on  the  western  de- 
clivity of  the  first  hill,  near  the  Sublime 
Porte.  It  was  commenced  in  the  year  531 
by  the  Emperor  Justinian,  and  completed 
in  538  :  100  architects,  with  100  master  ma- 
sons, and  10,000  masons,  were  employed 
for  seven  and  a  half  years.  The  whole 
was  superintended  by  the  emperor,  under 
the  instructions  of  an  angel,  and  cost  a 
fabulous  amount  of  money.  Twenty  years 
after  the  eastern  dome  fell  in,  but  was  re- 
stored I)}- Justinian  to  still  greater  splendor. 
The  mosque  is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross, 
270  feet  long  by  243  wide,  and  is  surmount- 
ed in  the  centre  by  a  dome,  the  middle  of 
which  is  180  feet  above  the  floor.  There 
are,  in  addition,  two  larger  and  six  smaller 
semi-domes,  with  four  minarets  added  by 
the  Mohammedans,  the  whole  forming  a 
magnificent  appearance  from  the  exterior. 
The.  beauty  of  the  interior  is,  however, 
marred  by  the  thousands  of  cords  depend- 
ing from  the  roof  to  within  five  feet  of  the 
pavement,  and  having  at  the  end  of  them 
lamps  of  colored  glass,  large  ostrich  eggs, 
artificial  horse-tails,  vases,  and  globes  of 
crystal,  and  other  ornaments.  Of  the  170 
columns  of  marble,  granite,  and  porphyry, 
eight  were  those  taken  by  Aurelius  from 
the  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Baalbec,  and 
sent  by  the  Widow  Marina  to  Rome,  eight 
in  green  marble  came  from  the  Temple  of 
Diana  at  Ephesus,  others  from  the  temples 
of  the  Sun  and  Moon  at  Heliopolis,  from 
Athens  and  the  Cyclades.  Thus  every 
heathen  temple,  renowned  in  antiquity  fur- 
nished a  part,  and  the  columns  which  for- 
merly looked  down  on  its  numerous  gods 
now  stood  in  the  house  of  the  Supreme 
Lord,  surmounted  by  the  cross.  The  gild- 
ed cupola  could  formerly  be  seen  one  hun- 
dred miles  out  at  sea.  This  was  replaced 
by  a  smaller  one  in  the  more  modern 
building. 

The  Mosque  of  Suleiman  the  Magnificent 
VOL.  II.— U 


is  the  most  beautiful  in  Constantinople. 
It  is  far  superior  to  St.  Sophia  in  the  gran- 
deur of  its  design  ;  the  intention  being  not 
only  to  imitate  St.  Sophia,  but  to  surpass 
it.  It  was  begun  in  1550,  and  finished  in 
1560.  It  possessed  four  minarets,  two  large 
with  three  galleries,  and  two  small  with 
two  galleries.  There  is  one  large  dome, 
two  half  domes,  and  ten  smaller  ones.  Be- 
fore entering  the  mosque  itself  there  is  a 
large  court  or  karem,  surrounded  by  a  gal- 
lery formed  by  twenty-four  columns,  sus- 
taining each  a  cupola.  The  interior  is  di- 
vided into  three  naves.  In  the  centre  is 
the  large  dome,  which  equals  in  diameter 
that  of  St.  Sophia,  and  is  about  20  feet 
higher. 

The  Mosque  of  Sultan  Achmed  was  built 
in  1G10  by  Achmet,  or  Achmed  I.,  and,  un- 
til the  time  of  its  erection,  the  Kaaba  of 
Mecca  was  the  only  Mussulman  edifice  that 
boasted  of  six  minarets.  The  interior  of 
l\\e  Ahmedieh,  ;is  it  is  called  by  the  Turks, 
is  venr  simple.  The  principal  dome  is  sus- 
tained by  four  immense  pillars,  which  rise 
outside  like  towers.  They  are  more  than 
thirty-six  yards  in  circumference.  There 
are  four  half  cupolas  surrounding  the  dome, 
and  these  are  joined  by  four  entire  cupolas 
forming  the  angles  of  the  building.  The 
menler  or  pulpit,  in  hewn  stone,  is  modeled 
after  that  of  Mecca. 

The  Mosque  of  Moh'immed  II.  is  next  in 
point  of  magnificence.  This  sultan,  imme- 
diately after  taking  Constantinople,  hav- 
ing converted  the  Church  of  St.  Sophia 
into  a  mosque,  tore  down  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Apostles  for  the  purpose  of  erect- 
ing on  its  site  the  mosque  which  now  bears 
his  name.  The  design  was  made  by  a 
Greek  architect,  Christodutos.  and  for  it  ho 
was  largely  remunerated.  This  mosque 
stands,  like  all  others,  between  two  courts, 
called  the  harem  and  garden.  In  the  for- 
mer the  faithful  perform  their  ablutions  ; 
in  the  latter  the  founder  reposes.  The 
tomb  of  Mohammed  II.  is  an  octagonal 
dome,  very  pimple  ;  the  conqueror  lies  in 
a  catafalque  surmounted  by  an  enormous 
turban.  The  mosque  was  overthrown  by 
an  earthquake  in  17G8,  and  repaired  by 
Mustapha  III. 

The  Hippodrome  is  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated squares  both  of  ancient  and  mod- 
ern Constantinople ;  it  is  900  feet  long  by 
•150  wide.  The  ancient  building  was  mod- 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


eled  after  the  circus  at  Rome.  It  was  sur- 
rounded by  two  rows  of  columns,  and  dec- 
orated with  numberless  statues  in  marble 
and  bronze.  All  these  monuments  have 
disappeared,  partly  through  the  factions  of 
the  circus,  of  the  blues  and  greens  who  at 
one  time  set  the  city  in  flames,  and  also 
after  the  taking  of  Constantinople  by  the 
Crusaders,  when  all  its  riches  and  works 
of  art  were  carried  to  every  part  of  Europe. 
The  four  famous  horses  of  Lysippus  were 
carried  to  Venice.  Among  those  that  re- 
main are  the 

Obelisk  of  Theodcsius.  This  monument 
is  of  granite,  and  came  originally  from 
Thebes.  The  four  sides  are  covered  with 
hieroglyphics ;  the  pedestal  is  of  marble, 
the  bas-reliefs  of  which  represent  the  Em- 
peror Theodosius  surrounded  by  his  court, 
others  the  instruments  used  to  erect  the 
obelisk.  Here,  also,  is  the  broken  Pillar 
ofConstantine,  stripped  of  its  bronze  by  the 
Turks  when  the  city  was  first  captured. 
The  stones  are  now  continually  falling,  and 
it  menaces  soon  to  be  in  ruins.  The  Ser- 
pentine Column  consists  of  three  brass  ser- 
pents twisted  together ;  the  heads  are  now 
all  gone.  Mohammed  II.,  on  the  taking 
of  Constantinople,  is  said  to  have  shattered 
the  under  jaw  of  one  of  these  monsters 
with  his  mace  or  battle-axe.  This  column 
originally  supported  the  golden  tripod  in 
the  temple  of  Delphi.  Bordering  on  the 
Hippodrome  was  the  imperial  palace,  also 
the  Senate-house  and  Forum. 

One  of  the  principal  objects  of  antiquity 
in  Constantinople  is  the  Burnt  Pillar  in 
Adrianople  Street,  the  only  real  street  in 
the  city  :  it  is  so  named  from  having  been 
blackened  by  repeated  conflagrations.  It 
was  erected  by  Constantine  the  Great,  and 
was  originally  120  feet  high;  it  was  sur- 
mounted by  a  colossal  bronze  statue  of 
Apollo,  said  to  be  by  Phidias.  During  the 
earthquake  of  1150  the  statue  and  three  of 
the  blocks  were  thrown  down.  Its  height 
is  now  only  90  feet. 

Constantinople  is  liberally  supplied  with 
water  conveyed  by  an  aqueduct  construct- 
ed by  the  Emperor  Hadrian,  and  fountains 
ornament  almost  every  street,  piazza,  or 
mosque  ;  they  are  generally  finely  painted 
or  glided.  The  public  baths  are  numerous 
and  very  cheap;  a  hot  bath  may  be  ob- 
tained for  two  cents.  All  houses  of  any  im- 
portance are  supplied  with  baths.  Among 
986 


|  the  most  important  institutions  of  Constan- 
tinople are  the  public  Khans,  which  are  ca- 
!  pable  of  accommodating  from  50  to  1000 
jicr.-'ins  each;  they  are  built  by  the  gov- 
ernment, and  intended  for  traveling  mer- 
chants, who  are  here  lodged  gratuitously 
while  they  remain  in  the  city,  each  having 
sole  possession  of  his  room.  The  object  is 
to  attract  merchandise  and  traders  from 
all  parts  of  the  world,  no  matter  what  is 
the  condition,  religion,  or  country  of  the 
trader.  The  apartments  are  built  several 
stories  high,  around  an  open  court,  the  en- 
trance being  secured  by  iron  gates. 

All  public  establishments  of  Constanti- 
nople are  crowned  with  cupolas,  and  the 
sacred  ones  with  domes  or  minarets  ter- 
minating with  a  crescent. 

The  Bazars  of  Constantinople  are  simi- 
lar to  those  of  Damascus  and  Cairo,  only 
much  more  extensive,  resembling  very 
much  the  booths  at  a  fair.  They  are  chief- 
ly crowded  with  ladies,  and  it  is  often  as 
difficult  to  pass  through  them  as  a  well- 
dressed  crowd  at  an  opera.  The  yrandba- 
zar  is  of  enormous  extent,  and  wkh  its 
streets,  passages,  and  fountains,  seems  like 
a  city  within  a  city.  It  is  entirely  roofed 
over,  and  is  lighted  by  little  cupolas  here 
and  there.  This  half-light  is  much  more 
favorable  to  the  seller  than  to  the  pur- 
chaser. The  aspect  of  the  goods,  however, 
is  truly  enticing.  One  long  alley  glitters 
with  yellow  morocco,  another  brilliant  with 
India  shawls,  another  with  meerschaums, 
another  with  amber  mouth-pieces,  another 
with  embroidered  muslin  dresses,  anoth- 
er with  slippers,  another  with  Damascus 
swords  and  daggers,  another  with  robes  of 
ermine  and  fur;  all  the  different  dealers 
in  the  same  style  of  goods  occupying  the 
same  bazar.  The  Armenian  Catholic  church 
at  Pera  should  be  visited.  Here  is  a  Gobe- 
lin copy  of  Raphael's  Transfiguration,  pre- 
sented by  the  Empress  of  the  French  in 
October,  1869,  and  valued  at  250,000  francs. 

The  Cemeteries  of  Constantinople  are 
among  its  greatest  beauties,  ornamented 
as  they  are  with  the  dark  Turkish  cypress. 
These  trees  are  supposed  to  neutralize  all 
pestilential  exhalations,  and  with  the  Mo- 
hammedans it  has  always  been  a  rule  to 
plant  one  at  the  birth  and  death  of  every 
member  of  the  family,  consequently  for 
miles  round  the  city  we  perceive  vast  for- 
ests of  these  trees. 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


1TKKKY  AND  GREECE.] 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


The  place  of  the  gondola  of  Venice  is 
supplied  by  the  light  caique,  a  kind  of 
wherry,  of  which  not  fewer  than  80,000 
are  estimated  to  ply  on  the  waters  of  Stam- 
boul  and  its  suburbs.  They  are  very  ele- 
gant in  their  construction,  and  glide  over 
the  waters  with  great  rapidity.  They  must 
be  entered  with  great  caution,  and  the  pas- 
sengers must  sit  in  the  bottom  in  the  same 
manner  as  in  an  Indian  canoe.  The  fare 
to  cross  the  Golden  Horn,  half  a  piastre; 
to  land  yourself  and  baggage  from  the 
steamer.  5  piastres;  from  the  Custom-house 
to  Tophani,  2  piastres  ;  all  day,  for  20  pias- 
tres or  one  dollar. 

The  regular  fare  of  a  valet  de  place  at 
Constantinople  is  6  francs.  Atanase,  a 
very  good  one,  may  be  seen  at  the  Hotel 
Byzance.  Ten  days  is  the  least  possible 
time  you  can  devote  to  seeing  the  city  and 
suburbs  in  a  proper  manner. 

Mr.  Turner  says :  "Amid  the  novelties 
that  strike  the  European  on  his  arrival, 
nothing  surprises  him  more  than  the  silence 
that  pervades  so  large  a  capital.  The  only 
sounds  he  hears  by  day  are  the  cries  of 
bread,  fruits,  sweetmeats,  or  sherbet,  car- 
ried in  a  large  wooden  tray  on  the  head  of 
an  itinerant  vendor,  and  at  intervals  the 
barking  of  the  dogs,  disturbed  by  the  foot 
of  the  passenger — lazy,  ugly  curs,  of  a  red- 
dish-brown color,  with  muzzles  like  that 
of  a  fox ;  short  ears,  and  famished  looks, 
who  lie  in  the  middle  of  the  streets,  and 
rise  only  when  roused  with  blows.  The 
contrast  between  Constantinople  and  a  Eu- 
ropean city  is  still  more  strongly  marked 
at  night;  by  10  o'clock  every  human  voice 
is  hushed,  and  not  a  creature  is  seen  in 
the  streets  except  a  few  patrols,  and  the 
innumerable  number  of  dogs,  who  at  in- 
tervals send  forth  such  repeated  bowlings 
that  it  requires  practice  to  be  able  to  sleep 
in  spite  of  their  noise.  This  silence  is 
frequently  disturbed  by  a  fire,  which  is 
announced  by  the  patrol  striking  on  the 
pavement  with  their  iron-shod  staves,  and 
calling  loudly  yungen  tear  (there  is  a  fire), 
on  which  the  firemen  assemble,  and  all  the 
inhabitants  in  the  neighborhood  are  imme- 
diately on  the  alert.  If  it  be  not  quickly 
subdued,  all  the  ministers  of  state  are 
obliged  to  attend ;  and  if  it  threaten  ex- 
tensive ravages,  the  sultan  himself  must 
appear  to  encourage  the  efforts  of  the  fire- 
men." 


During  the  month  of  Ramadan,  which 
is  the  Mohammedan  Lent,  the  Moslem  is 
forbidden  to  take  food  or  drink,  to  smoke 
or  snuff. from  sunrise  to  sunset;  on  the  set- 
ting of  the  sun  a  cannon  is  fired,  and  then 
commences  a  scene  of  revelry ;  the  mosques 
and  coffee-houses  are  open,  the  minarets 
illuminated,  and  the  faithful  drink,  smoke, 
and  carouse  in  their  quiet  way  until  morn- 
ing. The  Bairam,  which  succeeds  the 
Ramadan,  lasts  three  days,  and  is  a  time 
for  unmixed  festivity;  every  Turk  dons 
his  holiday  attire,  and  general  hilarity  pre- 
vails. Seventy  days  after  this  comes  the 
Feast  of  Sacrifice,  or  Coorban  Bairam, 
which  lasts  four  days,  on  which  occasion 
business  is  every  where  suspended,  and 
oxen  and  sheep  are  sacrificed  to  Allah  and 
the  Prophet. 

The  shores  of  the  Bosphorus  are  lined 
on  either  side  with  numerous  villages,  cas- 
tles, and  forts,  through  the  whole  extent 
of  the    channel.     Taking    the    European 
\  shore,  and  passing  the  promontory  of  Top- 
Hani*,  we  see  first  the  palace  of  Dolma- 
i  Baghtche  and  the  palace  of  Beschicktasche, 
;  the  latter  the  favorite  abode  of  the  sultans 
I  in  the  fine  season.     Orta-Keni  is  the  first 
j  stopping-place  of  the  steamers  making  this 
i  excursion.     It  is  a  large  village,  peopled 
.  with  Christians  and  Jews.     The  principal 
!  buildings  are  the  palace  of  Riza  Pacha  and 
i  the  mosque  of  the  Sultana  Valide,  a  square 
edifice  surmounted  by  a  cupola,  and  decc- 
j  rated  with  Corinthian  columns.     At  a  lit- 
:  tie  distance  from  the  town,  along  the  shore, 
I  is  the  palace  of  Mehemet  AH  Pacha,  broth- 
er-in-law of  the  sultan. 

Kouron-Schechme.     Here  Medea  landed 

with  Jason,  on  his  return  from  Colchis,  and 

'  planted  a  laurel -tree.     Constantino  also 

built  a  church  here  in  honor  of  Michael 

;  the  Archangel.     In  the  fifth  century  Sim- 

|  eon  the  Stylite  caused  his   pillar   to  be 

j  erected  here,  upon  which  he  passed  the 

i  remainder    of  his   life.      We    next    pass 

\  Amaout-Keni,  a  small  village    inhabited 

by  (i reeks. 

Bebek  is  situated  on  one  of  the  prettiest 
bays  of  the  Bosphorus.  Here  is  a  summer 
pavilion  of  the  sultan,  with  mosque  and 
baths  ;  also  the  Kiosk  of  the  Conferences, 
the  biscuit  manufactory  of  the  fleet,  and 
an  American  Protestant  school.  Between 
Bebek  and  Roumili  Kissar  is  the  narrowest 
part  of  the  channel.  The  current  is  very 
987 


ROUMIU  KISSAR. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


liOCMlLI-JVEXKR. 


swift,  and  is  called  by  the  Turks  Chettan 
Akindisi  (Satan's  current). 

Koumili  Kissar  (the  Castle  of  Europe) 
was  built  by  Mohammed  II.  in  1451,  not- 
withstanding the  remonstrances  of  Con- 
stantine  Palaeologus,  emperor  of  the  East, 
•who  foresaw  in  its  completion  the  fall  of 
his  capital  and  empire.  One  thousand 
masons  were  employed  in  its  construction, 
each  of  whom  was  assisted  by  two  work- 
men. A  measure  of  two  cubits  was  marked 
for  their  daily  task,  and  the  thickness  of  the 
walls  was  twenty-two  feet.  Mohammed 
himself  pressed  and  directed  the  work.  The 
whole  was  finished  in  three  months.  The 
towers  were  armed  with  enormous  cannon, 
which  shot  forth  bullets  of  marble  against 
the  city.  Immediately  on  its  completion 
Mohammed  began  the  siege  of  Constanti- 
nople. 

Balta-Liman.  Here  stands  the  palace 
of  Reschid  Pacha,  now  belonging  to  his 
son,  Etham  Pacha.  Here  were  signed  the 
treaty  of  commerce  of  1838,  the  treaty  of 
the  Five  Powers  in  1841,  and  the  conven- 
tion in  1849  relative  to  the  Principalities 
of  the  Danube. 

Stenia  was  called  by  the  ancients  Stenos, 
Leothenius,  and  Sosthenius,  and  was  the 
scene  of  many  nautical  fights  and  enter- 
prises. It  was  occupied  in  712  by  the 
Bulgarians,  who  menaced  in  their  incur- 
sions the  Eastern  Empire.  Yeni-Keni  lies 
farther  on :  the  situation  and  surroundings 
are  very  lovely. 

Therapia  (health)  deserves  its  name  from 
the  salubrity  of  its  climate.  It  was  for- 
merly called  Pharmateia,  from  the  poison 
thrown  on  the  coast  by  Medea  when  in  pur- 
suit of  Jason.  This  place  has  been  the  wit- 
ness of  many  fights  between  the  Venetians 
and  Genoese.  The  shore  is  lined  with 
cafes,  hotels,  summer-houses,  and  gardens. 
The  French  and  English  embassadors  have 
each  a  summer-palace  here.  The  palace  of 
the  French  embassy  formerly  belonged  to  ; 
the  Prince  Ypsilanti,  but  was  confiscated  by 
Sultan  Selim  III.,  and  presented  to  France 
during  the  mission  of  the  Marcchal  Sebas-  -, 
tiani. 

Buyuk-Dere  is  so  named  from  the  groat 
valley  which  stretches  several  miles  in- 
land. It  is  the  last  stopping-place  of  the 
steamers  making  the  excursion  of  the  Dan- 
ube, and  just  before  arriving  we  first  catch 
"glimpse  of  the  Black  Sea.  Btiyuk-Pcrc 
988 


is  one  of  the  most  charming  summer-resi- 
dences  to  be  found  in  Turkey ;  many  rich 
merchants  of  Constantinople  have  their 
country-houses  here,  going  to  the  city  in 
the  morning  and  returning  in  the  evening. 
The  palace  of  the  Russian  embassy  is  one 
of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  neighborhood. 
The  favorite  promenade  of  the  people  is  in 
the  great  valley.  Here  stands  a  group  of 
seven  plantains,  called  the  Seven  Brothers. 
One  is  called  the  plantain  of  Godfrey  de 
Bouillon,  a  tradition  existing  that  Godfrey 
and  his  army  encamped  here  in  1096.  This, 
however,  is  refuted  by  the  writings  of  Anna 
Comnena.  An  excursion  is  often  made  liy 
travelers  from  Buyuk-Dere  to  Bagdtche- 
Keni  and  Belgrade.  The  former  is  located  on 
the  summit  of  a  range  of  hills  surrounding 
the  great  valley  of  Buyuk-Dere.  The  grand 
aqueduct  of  Mahmoud  I.  closes  in  the  val- 
ley. This  aqueduct  was  built  in  1732,  and 
furnishes  water  to  Pera,  Galata,  and  Be- 
schik-Tasch.  About  four  miles  farther-in- 
land is  Jjelyrade,  situated  in  the  midst  of 
a  dense  forest  17  miles  in  circumference. 
The  supply  of  water  to  the  reservoir  of  the 
capital  depends  upon  the  preservation  of 
these  woods,  and  there  is  consequently  a 
guard  stationed  here  to  protect  them  and 
the  aqueduct  from  damage.  The  village 
of  Belgrade  was  called  Pftra  in  the  time 
of  the  Byzantines.  It  is  a  pleasant  place 
of  residence  during  the  spring  of  the  year, 
but  in  summer  the  mists  rising  from  the 
forest  render  it  unhealthy. 

Roumili-Fener  marks  the  limits  of  the 
Bosphorus.  The  three  promontories  which 
terminate  the  European  shore  have  large 
batteries  to  protect  the  entrance  of  the 
channel.  Opposite  them  are  the  Cyanean 
Rocks,  or  the  Symplegades,  so  called  from 
their  supposed  mobility.  This  idea  pro'ba- 
bly  arose  from  their  disappearing  in  stormy 
weather.  Returning  by  the 

Asiatic  Shore,  the  fortress  of  Riva  stands 
atthe  entrance  ofthe  Bosphorus,  and  serves, 
like  Kila.  opposite,  to  protect  the  channel. 
Farwrahi  and  Poiras  are  next  passed  :  the 
latter  fortress  stands  opposite  that  of  Ka- 
ribdsche,  on  the  European  shore.  Fil- 
Boumou,  or  the  Elephant  Cape,  is  also 
fortified. 

Anadouli-Kavak. — This  village,  stands  at 
the  foot  of  the  promontory  Ilifron,  which 
owes  its  name  to  the  temple  ofthe  Twelve 
Gods,  to  whom  the  Argivc  Phrygos,  and 


BKV-KOS. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


KOUSGOUSDJOUK. 


afterward  Jason,  on  his  return  from  Col- 
chis, erected  alt-irs  and  ottered  sacritices. 
The  Giant' »  AfouotaM  is  tlio  highest  on  the 
shores  of  the  l>o.-phoru.s,  and  rises  580  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  called 
loucha-  iJagh  by  the  Turks,  and  at  the  foot 
diverges  into  two  capes,  sepur.it, -d  by  tin; 
little  IJayof.lwoMv  Jen,  which  lies  oppo- 
site the  Gulf  of  Buyuk-Derc.  On  the 
mountains  are  the  ruins  of  the  Church  of 
St.  Pantuleon,  built  by  Justinian  ;  also  the 
tomb  of  Joshua  (?)  as  shown  by  the  Turks. 
Some  distance  along  the  shore  lies  Houn- 
kiar-lskelfssi.  This  has  always  been  a  fa- 
vorite residence  of  the  sultans.  Moham- 
med II.  here  built  a  kiosk,  and  Soliman  the 
Mamiiiireiit  a  palace,  which  was  attain  re- 
built by  Mahmoiid  I.,  in  ITlti.  The.  pres- 
ent kiosk  was  built  and  offered  to  the  sul- 
tan by  Mehemet  AH,  pucha  of  Egypt.  It 
is  said  to  have  cost  six  million  francs.  In 
1833  a  Russian  army  encamped  in  the  va!- 
ley;  and  on  June  2(>th  the  famous  treaty 
of  Hoimkiar-Iskelessi  was  signe.l,  which 
closed  the  Dardanelles  to  foreign  fleets. 

Continuing  along  the  shore,  we  come  to 
the  village  of  Bey-Kos,  which  stands  on 
the  gulf  of  the  same  name.  This  gulf  was 
formerly  called  the  Bay  of  Amyctis  :  here 
the  king  of  the  Bebryces  was  slain  by  I'ol- 
lux  on  the  return  of  the  Argonantic  expe- 
dition. A  laurel,  planted  at  the  place  of 
his  def.Mt,  had  the  singular  effect  of  ren- 
dering insensible  those  who  gathered  its 
branches. 

The  bay  of  Bcy-Kos  was  formerly  cele- 
brated fur  its  swordrish ;  they  have  now, 
however,  entinly  disappeared  from  the 
Bosphonis.  Continuing  along  the  coast, 
we  puss  Indjir-Keiti,  Ichibouklon,  and  Kun- 
lidje,  the  bloody  village.  Here  is  a  fine 
kiosk  erected  by  Mehemet  Ali.  Anaduuli- 
Ilixsiir  (the  castle  of  Asia)  lies  opposite 
Roumili-Hissar,  and,  like  that  fortress, 
was  built  by  Mohammed  II.  It  is  now  in 
ruins,  and  presents  nothing  to  the  view 
but  four  dismantled  towers.  The  Sweet 
Waters  cf.\s:n  is  one  of  the  most  charm- 
ing spots  on  the  liiisphorus.  Here  the 
lovely  beauties  of  the  harem  come  to  p:i<> 
the  summer  months.  In  the  centre  of  the 
promenade  is  a  large  white  marble  foun- 
tain, covered  with  inscriptions  in  letters  of 
gold,  covered  \>y  a  large  projecting  roof, 
and  little  domes  surmounted  by  crescents. 
Kandi'i  derives  Its  name  from  the  light- 


I house  which  crowns  the  hill  Idjadieh  above 
the  village. 

Koulleli. — Here  Soliman  lay  hid  during 
three  years  from  his  father  Selim  I.,  who 

!  had  condemned  him  to  death.  Tchfngtl- 
K>  n:  is  so  called  from  the  old  anchor  found 

;  on  the  shore  by  Mohammed  II.  Eeylerbey- 
Keni,  a  large  village  with  a  magnificent 
palace,  finished  in  1867.  At  Istarros  is  a 
very  pretty  mosque  with  two  minarets, 
formerly  a  Greek  church. 

Kousgoundjouk  is  the  last  stopping-place 
on  the  Asiatic  coast  before  arriving  at  Scu- 
tari. Scutari  is  regarded  as  a  suburb  of 
the  Turkish  capital,  although  the  arm  of 
the  sea  is  nearly  a  mile  wide  which  flows 
between  them.  This  is  the  starting-point 
of  the  roads  leading  to  the  Asiatic  prov- 

]  inces  of  the  empire.  It  has  eight  mosques, 
the  principal  of  which  are  the  Buyuk-Ijami 
and  the  Mosqueof  the  Sultana  Valide.  The 
latter  enjoys  the  privilege  of  being  illumi- 

|  nated  during  the  nights  of  Ramadan,  like 
the  imperial  mosques  in  Constantinople. 

i  The    cemetery  of  Scutari   is   one   of  the 

j  largest  in  the  East.     It  is  an  immense  wood 

'  of  cypress-trees,  crossed  by  large  alleys, 
which  extend  nearly  three  miles.  The 

I  soil  of  Scutari  is  considered  as  sacred 
ground.  Here  the  Ottoman  dynasty  iv;:s 
founded,  and  from  here  Islamism  spread  it- 

i  self  in  Europe.    Many  illustrious  men  have 

i  therefore  desired  to  be  buried  in  this  c<  m- 
etery.  One  tomb  attracts  particular  at- 
tention ;  it  is  a  dome  sustained  by  Fix  mar- 
ble columns,  and  marks  the  pl;ice  where 
th "  Sultan  Mahmoud  buried  his  favorite 
horse.  The  Convent  of  the  Itufai,  or  howl- 

i  ing  dervishes,  should  be  visited  by  thetrav- 

!  eler,  their  manner  of  worship  being  very 

;  novel  and  interesting. 

Steamers  leave  < 'onstantinople  weekly 
for  the  Danube.  S..loniea.  V;,rna.  Odessa, 

!  Trebizond,  Marseilles,  and  the  Syrian  eoa-f . 
Trav.-l'Ts  wishing  to  go  up  the  Danube 
takethe  Austrian  hloyds  steamers  to  Varna, 
and  then  go  by  rail  to  Rustchiik,  where  they 
join  the  mail  steamer,  itnd  proceed  up  the. 
Danube  to  Basiasch.  Here  they  may  take 
the  railroad  to  IVsth  and  Vienna,  or  con- 
tinue on  the  Danube  as  far  as  IVsth. 

To  visit  the  Crimea  you  must  go  by  tho 

I  way  of  Odessa,  taking  a  weekly  steamer 

from  thence  to  Sebastopol.     Fifty  dollars 

will  !>;;  sufficient  to  pay  the  passage  both 

ways ;  and  the  different  battle  -  fields,  as 

989 


THE  ISLES  OF  GREECE.       [TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 

well  as  the  ancient  caves  of  the  Crimea,  ! 
are  well  worth  a  visit.     The  English  have  i 
left  there  two  monuments  of  their  nation-  ' 
ality — a  splendid  macadamized  road  from 
Balaklava  to  Sebastopol,  the  only  one  in 
the  country,  and  an  immense  pyramid  of 
broken  porter-bottles,  solidified  in  such  a 
manner  by  the  weather  that  its  perpetuity  : 
is  likely  to  rival  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt. 

From  Constantinople  to  Genoa,  via  Athens. 
the  time  is  eight  days.   Fare,  500  f  r.  —  £100. 
To  Athens,  41  hours :  this  fare  varies  con-  , 
siderablv. 


THE  ISLES  OF  GREECE. 

After  passing  through  the  Dardanelles, 
or  Hellespont,  we  are  again  among  the 
"  Isles  of  Greece,"  so  beautifully  described 
by  Byron  in  the  following  verses,  whk-h 
we  quote  in  full,  as  no  description  we  could 
give  would  so  well  while  away  the  hours  as 
we  pass  between  them : 

"  The  isles  of  Greece,  the  isles  of  Greece, 
Where  burning  Sappho  loved  and  sung, 

Where  grew  the  arts  of  war  and  peace. 
Where  Delos  rose  and  Phoebus  sprung ; 

Eternal  summer  gilds  them  yet, 

But  all,  except  their  sun,  is  set. 

"  The  Scian  and  the  Teian  muse, 

The  hero's  harp,  the  lover's  lute, 
Have  found  the  fame  your  shores  refuse ; 

Their  place  of  birth  alone  is  mute; 
To  sounds  which  echo  farther  west 
Than  your  sires'  'Islands  of  the  Blest.' 

"The  mountains  look  on  Marathon, 

And  Marathon  looks  on  the  sea ; 

And,  musing  there  a-i  hour  alone, 

I  dreamt  that  Greece  might  still  be  free ; 
For,  standing  on  the  Persian's  grave, 
I  could  not  desm  myself  a  slave. 

"  A  king  ?at  on  the  rocky  brow 

Which  looks  o'er  sea-born  Salamis, 
And  ships  by  thousands  lay  below. 

And  men  in  nations — all  were  his  ! 
He  counted  them  at  break  of  day, 
And  when  the  sun  set,  where  were  they? 

"  And  where  are  they  ?  and  where  art  thou, 

My  country?     On  thy  voiceless  shore 
The  heroic  lay  i-;  tuneless  now — 

The  heroic  bosom  beats  no  more ! 
And  must  thy  lyre,  so  long  divine, 
Regenerate  into  hands  like  mine? 

u'Ti-  something  in  the  dearth  offline. 

Though  linked  among  a  fettered  race. 
To  feel  at  least  .1  patriot's  shame. 
Even  us  I  sincr,  suffuse  my  f  ice  ; 
For  what  is  left  the  poet  he.iv  :• 
For  Greeks  a  blush— for  Greece  a  teir. 

"Must  we  but  weep  o'er  days  more  liles'  ? 
Must  we  but  Mush  ?     Our  father-  hit- 1 
990 


ICarth.  render  back  from  out  thy  breast 

A  remnant  of  our  Spartan  dead  ! 
Of  the  three  hundred  grant  but  three, 
To  make  a  new  Thermopylae! 

I  What '.  silent  still,  and  silent  all? 

Ah !  no  :  the  voices  of  the  dead 
Sound  like  a  distant  torrent's  fall, 

And  answer,  •  Let  one  living  head, 
But  one  arise — we  come,  we  come ! 
'Tis  but  the  living  who  are  dumb.' 

"  In  vain,  in  vain  :  strike  other  chords ; 

Fill  high  the  cup  with  Samian  wine ! 
Leave  battles  to  the  Turkish  hordes, 

And  shed  the  blood  of  Scio's  vine! 
Hark !  rising  to  the  ignoble  call — 
How  answers  each  bold  Bacchanal ! 

II  You  have  the  Pyrrhic  dance  as  yet, 

Where  is  the  Pyrrhic  phalanx  gone? 
Of  two  such  lessons,  why  forget 

The  nobler  and  the  manlier  one  ? 
You  have  the  letters  Cadmus  gave — 
Think  ye  he  meant  them  for  a  slave  ? 

"  Fill  high  the  bowl  with  Samian  wine! 

We  will  not  think  of  themes  like  the  el 
It  made  Anacreon's  song  divine  : 

lie  served— but  served  J'olycrates — 
A  tyrant:  but  our  masters  then 
Were  still,  at  least,  our  countrymen. 

"The  tyrant  of  the  Chersonese 

Wa-  freedom's  best  and  bravest  friend; 
Tlint  tyrant  was  Miltiades! 

Oh;   that  the  present  hour  could  lend 
Another  despot  °f  the  kind  '. 
Such  chains  as  his  w.'iv  sure  to  bind. 

"  Fill  high  the  bowl  with  Samian  wine  ! 

On  Suli's  rock  and  1'erira's  shore, 
Exists  the  remnants  of  a  line 

Such  as  the  Doric  mothers  bore ; 
And  there  perhaps  some  seed  is  sown 
The  Heracleidan  blood  might  own. 

"•  Trust  not  for  freedom  to  the  Franks  — 
They  have  a  king  who  buys  and  sells. 
In  native  swords,  and  native  ranks, 
The  only  hope  of  courage  dwells  : 
But  Turkish  force  and  Latin  fraud 
Would  break  your  shield,  however  b>"oad. 

"Fill  high  the  bowl  with  Samian  wine! 

Our  virgins  dance  beneath  the  shade—. 
I  see  their  glorious  black  eyes  shine  ; 
But.  gazing  on  each  glowing  maid, 
My  own  the  burning  tear-drop  laves 
To  think  such  breasts  must  suckle  slaves. 

u  Place  me  on  Suniam's  marbled  steep, 

Where  nothing,  save  the  waves  and  I, 
May  luar  our  mutual  murmurs  sweep; 

There,  swan-like,  let  me  sing  and  die  : 
A  land  of  slaves  shall  iv'er  lie  mine — 
Dash  down  yon  cup  of  Samian  wine:" 

The  French  steamers  remain  generally 
at  Pirams,  the  sea-port  of  Athens,  four  or 
five  hours — sufficient  time  to  examine  tho 
ruins  of  the  Acropolis.  There  is  little  else 
to  be  seen  at  Athens.  If  you  have  time, 
you  can  remain  one  week,  until  the  next 
boat  arrives. 


GREECE    AND     Th 


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book 


GREECE. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


GREECE. 


GREECE. 

The  limits  of  ancient  Greece  were  much 
more  extensive  than  that  of  the  modern 
kingdom.  The  greatest  extent  of  the 
Greek  main  hind  from  north  to  south  is 
little  more  than  200  miles,  and  from  east  to 
west  only  1(1.").  Including  the  numerous 
islands  it  embraces,  the  total  area  of  the 
kingdom  is  19,9-15  square  miles,  or  about 
the  size  of  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire. 
It  is  divided  into  four  portions,  Northern 
Greece,  the  Morea,  the  Grecian  Islands, 
and  the  Ionian  Islands,  which  latter  were 
incorporated  with  the  kingdom  of  Greece 
in  1sr>-l.  The  first  is  that  portion  which 
lies  north  of  the  Gulf  of  Corinth.  The  sur- 
face of  the  whole  is  generally  mountainous. 
The  climate  is  usually  warm  and  delight- 
ful ;  its  clear  and  cloudless  sky  has  been 
much  celebrated,  and  the  perfect  transpa- 
rency of  the  atmosphere  helps  to  display 
the  natural  objects  of  its  scenery  in  their 
highest  beauty. 

On  the  plains  near  the  const  snow  is  sel- 
dom seen,  and  the  winters  are  mostly  of 
short  duration.  In  the  centre  of  the  Mo-  ! 
rea  snow  generally  lies  on  the  ground  for 
several  weeks.  For  a  few  weeks  in  Feb- 
ruary the  rains  fall,  after  which  time  spring 
commences.  Early  in  March  the  vine  and 
olives  bud,  and  in  May  the  corn  is  reaped. 
The  olive  is  distinguished  for  its  superior 
excellence,  and  the  orange,  lemon,  citron, 
fig,  banana,  and  water-melon  afford  the 
richest  fruit. 

Bees  are  abundant  in  Greece,  and  the 
produce  of  honey  is  very  great. 

The  Greek  nation  boasts  of  the  highest 
antiquity;  the  cities  of  Argos,  Thebes, 
Athens,  Sparta,  and  Corinth,  claim  to  have 
been  founded  nearly  200  B.C.  The  first 
constitution  of  Greek  cities  is  beyond  the 
reach  of  exact  history,  but  monarchy  seems 
to  have  been  the  earliest  form. 

"  The  civil  polity  of  Sparta  and  Athens, 
whose  governing  power  began  to  lessen 
the  influence  of  other  states,  was  most 
successful  in  calling  forth  the  public  en- 
ergies, and  making  small  means  produce 
great  results.  The  progress  of  military- 
knowledge  and  of  the  more  refined  arts 
was  contemporaneous  with  that  of  politics. 
Most  departments  of  science  and  the  fine 
arts,  pursued  with  impatient  zeal  by  the 
highly  sensitive  Greeks,  were  carried  by 


them  to  a  higher  pitch  of  perfection  than 
elsewhere  in  ancient,  and,  in  some  respects, 
in  modern  times;  and  their  commerce,  con- 
ducted by  means  of  their  colonies  on  the 
Black  Sea,  and  on  the  coasts  of  Italy,  Sic- 
ily, and  Gaul,  was  extensive  and  import- 
ant. 

"  The  pride,  activity,  and  enterprise  of 
the  Greeks,  and,  above  all,  their  love  of 
liberty,  bore  them  triumphantly  through 
all  the  difficulties  of  the  Persian  war  (closed 
B.C.  491);  and  the  same  features  of  char- 
acter, differently  developed,  involved  them 
in  intestine  feuds.  The  Peloponnesian 
War,  which  lasted  nearly  thirty  years 
(B.C.  431-404),  by  destroying  their  union 
and  exhausting  their  strength,  paved  the 
way  for  their  subjugation  by  Philip  of  Mac- 
edon,  who  won  the  decisive  battle  of  Chae- 
ronea,  B.C.  338.  The  brilliant  conquests  of 
Alexander  engaged  them  for  a  few  years  ; 
but  their  courage  was  now  enervated,  and 
their  love  of  liberty  all  but  extinguished. 
'I'll"  Achaean  league  proved  a  vain  defense 
against  the  power  of  Macedon  ;  and  when 
this  kingdom  fell,  Greece  was  wholly  un- 
able to  cope  with  the  arms  of  Rome.  The 
contest  was  brief,  and  ended  with  the  cap- 
ture of  Corinth,  146  B.C.,  from  which  time, 
during  1350  years,  it  continued  to  be  either 
really  or  nominally  a  portion  of  the  Roman 
empire.  Literature  and  the  arts,  long  on 
the  decline,  were  at  last  destroyed  by  Jus- 
tinian, who  closed  the  schools  of  Athens. 

"  Alaric  the  Goth  invaded  the  country 
in  the  year  400,  followed  by  Genseric  and 
Zaber-Khan  in  the  sixth  and  seventh,  and 
by  the  Normans  in  the  eleventh  century. 
After  the  Latin  conquest  of  Constantino- 
ple in  1204,  Greece  was  parted  into  feudal 
principalities,  and  governed  by  a  variety 
of  Norman,  Venetian,  and  Frankish  no- 
bles; but  in  1261,  with  the  exception  of 
Athens  and  Nauplia,  it  was  reunited  to  the 
Greek  empire  by  Michael  Paloeologus.  In 
1438  it  was  invaded  by  the  Turks,  who 
finally  conquered  it  in  1-181.  The  Vene- 
tians, however,  were  not  disposed  to  allow 
its  new  masters  quiet  possession,  and  the 
country  during  the  sixteenth  and  seven- 
teenth centuries  was  the  theatre  of  obsti- 
nate wars,  which  continued  till  the  treat}' 
of  Passarovitz  in  1718  confirmed  the  Turks 
in  their  conquests.  With  the  exception 
of  Mains,  tho  whole  country  remained  un- 
der their  despotic  sway  till  1821,  when  the 
991 


CiKKECE. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


GKEECE. 


Greeks  once  more  awoke  from  their  pro- 
tracted lethargy,  and  asserted  their  claims 
to  a  national  existence  and  to  the  domin- 
ion of  the  land  possessed  and  ennobled  by 
their  ancestors.  The  heads  of  the  nobler 
families  and  others  interested  in  the  re- 
generation of  their  country  formed  a  he- 
teiria  for  concerting  patriotic  measures, 
and  in  1821  Yp.-ilunti  proclaimed  that 
Greece  had  thrown  off' the  yoke  of  Turkey. 
The  revolution  broke  out  simultaneously 
in  Greece  and  Wallachia,  and  was  con- 
tinued with  various  success  and  much 
bloodshed  till  the  great  European  powers 
interfered,  and  the  battle  of  Navurino 
(Oct.  20,  1827)  insured  the  independence 
of  Greece,  which  was  reluctantly  acknowl- 
edged by  the  Porte  in  the  treaty  of  Adria- 
nople,  1829.  The  provisional  government 
which  had  been  set  on  foot  during  the  rev- 
olutionary struggle  was  agitated  by  dis- 
contents and  jealousies,  and  the  president, 
Count  Capo  d'Istrias,  was  assassinated  in 
1831."  The  allied  powers,  having  pre- 
vioush'  determined  on  erecting  Greece  into 
a  monarchy,  offered  the  crown  to  Prince 
Leopold  of  Saxc-Coburg  (now  King  of  Bel- 
gium), who  declined  it ;  finally  it  was  con- 
ferred on  Otho,  younger  son  of  the  King  of 
Bavaria,  since  dethroned. 

It  was  offered,  in  18G3,  to  Prince  Wil- 
liam of  Denmark,  who  ascended  the  throne 
October  31,  with  the  title  of  George  I.  The 
present  government  of  Greece  is  a  consti- 
tutional and  hereditary  monarchy.  The 
legislative  power,  since  1864,  is  in  the 
hands  of  the  king  and  the  chamber  of  dep- 
uties. The  person  of  the  king  is  inviola- 
ble ;  his  ministers  are  responsible.  The 
right  of  vote  begins  at  the  age  of  25,  and 
at  30  the  electors  are  eligible  for  election. 
The  deputies  are  chosen  for  four  years,  I  ut 
the  senators  are  appointed  for  life  by  the 
king.  They  must,  however,  have  att..i:ied 
the  age  of  40.  The  population  of  Greece, 
including  the  Ionian  Islands,  is  1, -157, 894. 
That  of  Athens,  with  its  harbor,  Piraeus,  is 
50,798.  The  army  amounts  to  31,300  men, 
viz. ,14,300  regular  troops,  and  17,000  ir- 
regular. Navy,  34  vessels,  164  cannon, 
and  13-10  men. 

Money  is  kept  in  drachmas,  piastres, 
and  paras;  40  paras  =  1  piastre  =  6  cents 
U.S.;  1  drachma =17  cents  U.  S.  There 
are  gold  coins  of  10,  20,  40,  and  50  drach- 
mas. 

992 


The  Greeks  are  an  active,  hardy,  and 
brave  race,  ingenious,  loquacious,  and  live- 
ly. They  are  generally  above  the  aver- 
age height,  and  well  shaped  ;  features  reg- 
ular and  expressive ;  eyes  large,  dark, 
and  animated  ;  complexion  olive,  and  hair 
long. 

Mr.  Hope  says,  "  The  complexion  of  the 
modern  Greek  may  receive  a  different  cast 
from  different  surrounding  objects.  The 
core  is  still  the  same  as  in  the  days  t  f  Peri- 
cles. Credulity,  versatility,  and  the  tlih:t 
for  distinction  frcm  the  eailie.-t  peril  ds 
formed,  still  form,  and  ever  will  form  the 
basis  of  the  Greek  character. 

"When  patriotism,  public  spirit,  and 
pre-eminence  in  arts,  science,  literature, 
and  warfare  were  the  road  to  distinction, 
the  Greeks  shone  the  first  of  patriots,  of 
heroes,  of  painters,  of  poets,  and  of  philoso- 
phers. Now  that  craft  and  subtlety,  ad- 
ulation and  intrigue,  are  the  only  paths  to 
greatness,  the  same  Greeks  arc — what  you 
see  them." 

Travelers  land  at  Pirajus,  the  port  of 
Athens,  which  is  about  six  miles  distant; 
railway  every  hour.  The  price  of  a  boat 
to  take  you  and  your  baggage  from  the 
steamer  is  about  1  drachma.  A  little 
i  west  of  Pirneus,  near  the  sea -shore,  the 
1  throne  of  Xerxes  was  erected,  that  he 
might  watch  the  progress  of  the  battle 
of  Sulamis.  Here  he  sat  and  saw  the 
defeat  of  his  fleet.  The  macadamized  road 
to  Athens  follows  the  line  of  the  most  east- 
ern of  the  long  walls  erected  by  Themis- 
toc.les,  remains  of  which  are  still  visible. 
Since  January,  38G9,  a  rail-r<  ad  lias  been 
open  from  Piraeus  to  Athens,  vhirh  is  the 
first  ever  constructed  on  the  i-oil  of  Greece. 
The  city  of  Athens  owes  its  celebrity  en- 
tirely to  its  ancient  greatness  and  the  nu- 
mrrmis  remains  of  its  former  works  of  art. 
It  presents  little  of  interest.  Pop.  (l^'8-l), 
'84,905.  The  surrounding  scenery  is  love- 
ly, and  the  climate  delightful,  but  the 
streets  are  narrow  and  winding,  with  moan 
and  badly-built  houses.  The  principal  ho- 
tels are  the  Grande  Eretagne  and  D'Angle- 
terre.  The  palace  of  the  king  is  the  prin- 
cipal modern  edifice.  It  was  begun  in  1836, 
and  finished  in  1843.  It  is  a  large  quad- 
rangular building,  heavy  and  monotonous 
in  style.  The  southern  side,  with  an  Ionic 
portico,  presents  the  best  appearance.  The 
rooms  are  but  poorly  decorated ;  the  ball- 


ATHENS. 


[TURKEY  AXD  GREECE. J 


room  is  the  best,  adorned  with  stuccoes  and 
arabesques  in  the  Pompeian  style.  The 
university,  built  in  1*:!7  by  Mr.  Hanson.  ;i 
Danish  architect,  is  tlio  finest  modern  build- 
ing in  Athens. 

The  Acropolis,  or  citadel,  crowns  the 
summit  of  a  rocky  bill,  which  rises  abrupt- 
ly out  of  the  plain  in  the.  midst  of  the  city. 
It  lias  been  a  fortress  from  the  earliest 
ages  ;  it  rises  150  feet.  The  walls,  which 
are  built  on  the  edge  of  the  perpendicular 
rock,  form  a  circuit  of  nearly  7000  feet. 
They  are  of  great  antiquity,  and  were 
built  partly  by  the  Pelagians,  by  Themis- 
tori 's  and  Cymon.  by  Valerian,  and  lat- 
terly by  tin;  Turks  and  Venetians.  A  mar- 
ble st.iirc.ise  leads  up  to 

The  Piopylea,  the  entrance  to  the  Acrop- 
olis. The  Propvlea  were  commenced  437 
B.C.,  and  lini>ht;d  in  live  years.  They  re- 
mained in  almost  perfect  preservation  un- 
til the  fourteenth  century.  This  gateway 
was  of  the  Doric  order;  its  central  pedi- 
ment was  supported  by  six  fluted  marble 
columns,  o  feet  in  diameter  by  29  in  height. 
To-day  but  two  of  the  six  columns  have 
their  capitals  :  thes  •.  however,  equal  in 
Iwauty  tho-if  of  the  Parthenon.  The  live 
portals  st  1!  remain  ;  the  one  in  the  centre 
is  a  third  higlier  and  larger  than  the  oth- 
ers. Of  the  two  wings  of  this  facade,  but 
one  remains  on  the  left.  This  is  the  Piiin- 
C'rtheca,  supposed  to  foa  the  same  described 
by  1'ausanias.  It  serves  as  a  museum  for 
all  the  statues,  inscriptions,  or  other  antiq- 
uities found  in  the  Acropolis.  Near  the 
Propylaea  stood  the  celebrated  colossal 
stitue  of  Minerva,  executed  by  Phidias 
after  the  battle-  of  Marathon,  the  height  of 
which  was  tin  IV  -t. 

The  Temple  of  Victor;/,  without  icings. 
stands  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  into  the 
Acropolis.  This  temple  seems  anterior  to 
the  time  of  Pericles,  and  was  probably 
erected  by  Cymon.  It  was  demolished  by 
the  Turks  in  1(>S7.  when  besieged  by  the 
Venetians,  for  the  purpose  of  constructing 
a  battery.  It  was  restored  during  the 
reign  of  King  Otho,  partly  by  the  govern- 
ment, and  partly  with  funds  subscribed  in 
England.  Four  pieces  of  the  fricza  are 
uow  in  the  British  Museum. 

On  the  platform  of  the  Acropolis  were 
several  temples  and  statues  dedicated  to 
different  gods,  which  have  now  almost  en- 
tirely disippenred.  Fratrin  nt>  lie  scat- 
Voi..  II.— U  2 


tered  in  ever)'  direction,  and  arc  being  col- 
lected into  the  Pin'acotheca  by  the  Archae- 
ological Society  of  Athens. 

The  Purthtnon  was  built  during  tho  ad- 
ministration of  Pericles.  The  exact  year 
in  which  it  was  begun  is  not  known,  but 
it  was  lini>hed  436  B.C.  It  was  230  fcot 
long  by  lni>  wide,  and  sufficient  now  re- 
mains  to  fill  the  spectator  with  astonish- 
ment and  awe.  The  cost  of  the  building 
was  nearly  three  millions  of  dollars.  The 
cella,  or  walls  of  the  principal  building, 
were  surrounded  with  a  peristyle  contain- 
ing 48  white  marble  columns  of  the  Doric 
order.  These  columns  were  6  feet  2  inch- 
es at  the  base,  and  34  feet  high.  At  both 
ends  of  the  cella  was  a  vestibule  raised  two 
steps  above  the  platform,  supported  by  six 
columns  each.  The  edifice  was  divided 
into  two  apartments,  the  smaller  of  the 
two,  called  the  opisthodome,  being  C3  feet 
broad  and  42  deep,  the  ceiling  of  which 
was  supported  by  four  columns.  Here  was 
kept  the  public  treasure.  The  other  di- 
vision was  100  feet  deep  by  G3  broad  ;  the 
ceiling  was  supported  by  16  columns,  the 
whole  material  being  of  the  finest  white 
marble.  This  portion  of  the  building  was 
called  the  cella,  and  was  so  completely  de- 
stroyed that  for  a  long  time  the  disposition 
of  the  interior  was  unknown.  The  cele- 
brated frieze  of  the  cella,  representing  in 
bas-reliefs  the  faces  of  the  gods,  the  cere- 
monies of  the  temple,  and  horse  and  char- 
iot races,  has  been  transported  almost  en- 
tirely to  the  British  Museum.  In  the  in- 
terior of  the  cella  stood  the  colossal  st.it uo 
of  Minerva,  covered  with  gold  and  ivory, 
the  Parthenon  being  dedicated  to  th.it  god- 
dess, who  was  the  tutelary  deity  of  tho 
Athenians. 

The  Parthenon  was  repaired  and  embel- 
lished by  the  Emperor  Hadrian,  and  re- 
mained in  good  preservation  until  1(1*7. 
during  the  Venetian  sic-go,  when  the  ex- 
plosion of  a  powder  magazine  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  building  tore  off  the  roof  and 
overthrew  a  great  part  of  the  temple.  Aft- 
er the  conquest  of  the  place,  the  destruc- 
tion wns  still  carried  on,  and  the 
Morosini  caused  the  horses  and  chariot  <  f 
Minerva,  admirably  preserved,  to  be  taken 
from  the  pediment.  His  order  was  so  bad- 
ly executed  that  the  whole  group  fell,  and 
was  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks, 
temple  has  also  greatly  suffered  in  mod- 
993 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


ATHEN& 


crn  times  through  Lord  Elgin,  who  carried 
away  about  200  feet  of  the  frieze,  the  stat- 
ues from  the  pediment,  and  every  thing 
upon  which  he  could  lay  his  handr — all 
now  to  be  seen  in  the  British  Museum. 

At  the  northeast  of  the  Parthenon  stood 
the  temple  of  the  Erecktheiwn,  dedicated  to 
the  joint  worship  of  Minerva  and  Neptune. 
It  is  a  rectangular  building,  90  feet  long, 
supposed  to  have  been  erected  during  the 
time  of  Cymon  and  Pericles.  On  the 
northern  and  western  sides  are  porticoes 
supported  by  Ionic  columns  ;  the  southern 
portico  is  supported  by  beautiful  female 
tigures  or  Caryatides.  But  five  columns 
now  remain  of  the  principal  or  western 
portico,  and  they  are  the  finest  type  ever 
seen  of  the  Ionic  order.  Of  the  portico  of 
the  Caryatides  but  three  of  the  ancient 
figures  remain ;  the  others  have  been  re- 
stored. The  whole  edifice  was  of  Pentelic 
marble,  with  a  frieze  of  black  marble  of 
Eleusis.  On  this  black  ground  were  bas- 
reliefs  in  polychrome,  fragments  of  which 
have  been  found,  and  are  now  in  the  Pina- 
cotheca.  Part  of  the  roof  fell  in  during 
the  siege  of  Athens  in  1827.  The  sacred 
olive-tree  grew  in  this  temple,  which  was 
produced  from  the  earth  by  Minerva  dur- 
ing her  contest  with  Neptune  for  the  soil 
of  Attica.  It  was  burned  by  the  Persians 
on  gaining  possession  of  the  temple,  but  it 
grew  an  arm's  length  in  a  single  night  on 
being  reconquered  by  the  Athenians.  Ce- 
crops  is  also  supposed  to  be  buried  in  the 
portico  of  the  Caryatides. 

The  Acropolis,  which  was  the  pride  of 
Greece,  the  perfection  of  all  art,  and  envy 
of  the  world,  had  four  distinct  characters, 
viz.,  the  fortress  of  the  city,  the  sacred 
shrine  for  all  offering,  the  treasury,  and 
the  museum  of  art  of  the  Athenian  people. 

A  short  distance  to  the  west  of  this  is 
the  A  reopaffus,  or  Mars'  Hill,  of  still  great- 
er interest  to  the  Christian  student  as  the 
spot  from  which  the  Apestle  Paul  address- 
ed the  assembled  multitude  of  ancient  Ath- 
ens. On  the  eastern  end  was  situated  the 
celebrated  Court  of  the  Areopagus,  the 
highest  judicial  court  of  Athens,  whose  ex- 
istence is  dated  from  the  time  of  Cecrops. 
According  to  fable,  Mars  himself  was 
judged  here  for  the  murder  of  Alirothius, 
son  of  Neptune.  The  judges  were  taken 
from  the  best  families  in  Athens,  and  ap- 
pointed for  life.  The  tribunal  assembled 
994 


during  the  night.    Here  Socrates  was  tried 
for  theism. 

The  first  hill  to  the  southwest  of  the  Are- 
opagus is  the  Pnyx,  where  the  citizens  met 
to  decide  all  great  questions  of  the  day, 
such  as  peace  and  war.  The  Bema  is  the 
stone  pulpit  whence  the  orator  harangued 
the  people,  which,  together  with  the  steps 
leading  to  it  and  the  surrounding  seats,  is 
cut  in  the  solid  rock.  This  pulpit  is  turned 
from  the  sea,  and  therefore  is  not  the  trib- 
une of  Themistocles,  Pericles,  and  Alcibia- 
des,  which  Plutarch  distinctly  informs  us 
looked  toward  the  sea. 

Among  the  relics  yet  remaining  in 
Athens  are  :  The  Tower  (>f  tfie  Winds,  or 
the  water-clock  of  Andronicus  Cyrrliestes, 
is  an  octagonal  tower  situated  at  the  foot 
of  the  Acropolis.  Its  eight  sides  face  in 
the  direction  of  the  eight  winds  into  which 
the  Athenian  compass  is  divided.  The 
symbolical  figures  of  the  different  winds 
are  sculptured  on  the  frieze.  Above  the 
figures  on  each  side  was  a  sun-dial.  The 
summit  of  the  tower  was  ornamented  with 
a  Triton  in  bronze,  mounted  on  a  pivot,  and 
turning  with  the  wind.  The  water-clock 
of  Andronicus  within  the  tower  was  sup- 
plied from  the  fountain  of  the  Acropolis  by 
an  aqueduct. 

The  Lantern  of  Demosthenes  is  a  small 

circular  building  of  the  Corinthian  order, 

constructed  in  white  marble.      Six  fluted 

columns  support  u  beautifully  ornamented 

frieze,  the  bas-reliefs  of  which  have  been 

latelv  much  injured.      This  building  now 

bears  the  name  of  the  Choragic  Jfontiment 

,  of  Lysicrates,  and  is  the  only  remaining 

|  temple  of  the  series  that  ornamented  the 

Street  of  Tripods. 

The  Arch  of  Hadrian  stood  between  old 
Athens  (the  city  of  Theseus)  and  new 
Athens  (the  city  of  Hadrian).  It  is  built 
of  Pentelic  marble,  and  is  of  the  Corinthian 
order,  but  it  is  of  a  style  so  peculiar  as  to 
induce  many  to  believe  that  the  arch  was 
not  built  by  the  emperor,  whose  good  taste 
is  well  known,  but  by  the  Athenians  in  his 
honor. 

The  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olympus  stood  in 
the  new  city,  or  Hadrianopolis.     It  was 
begun  by  Pisistratus  530  B.C.,  and  contin- 
ued by  his  son,  but  after  their  expulsion 
the  works  were  suspended  nearly  400  years. 
|  It  was  continued  at  different  timcf.  but  was 
•  not  completed  until  the  reign  of  Hadrian 


ATHENS. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


JEQITXA, 


(117-138  A.D.).  According  to  Mr.  Pen- 
rose,  the  temple  was  550  feet  long  by  370 
wide.  It  consisted  of  a  cella  surrounded 
by  a  peristyle,  with  10  columns  on  the  front 
and  20  at  the  sides.  The  peristyle  ~uas 
quadruple  at  the  pronaos  ;utd  posticum, 
and  double  at  the  sides,  making  in  all  120 
columns.  Of  these  only  10  remain  ;  they 
are  of  the  Corinthian  order,  above  6i)  feet 
in  height,  and  7  in  diameter.  A  great 
many  of  the  remains  of  this  enormous  tem- 
ple have  entirely  disappeared.  It  was  prob- 
ably used  as  a  quarry  by  the  Athenians  dur- 
ing the  Middle  Ages. 

The  Prison  of  Socrates  is  the  name  giv- 
en to  several  small  dungeons  cut  in  the 
rock  at  the  foot  of  the  Musseum  Hill.  In 
one  of  them  Socrates  is  believed  to  have 
been  imprisoned,  and  to  have  drunk  the 
poisoned  cup;  of  this,  however,  there  is  no 
proof. 

The  Theatre  of  Bacchus  was  built  about 
500  B.C.  by  the  architects  Democrates  and 
Anaxagoras.  The  ranges  of  seats  for  the 
spectators  were  cut  in  the  side  of  the  hill 
of  the  Acropolis,  in  the  form  of  a  hemicy- 
cle.  The  stage  and  orchestra  were  built 
of  marble,  and  decorated  with  great  splen- 
dor. It  was  not  terminated  until  340  B.C., 
during  the  administration  of  Lycurgus,  but 
it  had  long  served  for  the  representation 
of  the  works  of  yEschylus,  Euripides,  and 
Aristophanes.  Above  the  seats  cut  in  the 
rock,  and  below  the  wall  of  Cymon,  is  the 
entrance  to  a  small  cavern,  which  was  con- 
verted into  a  temple  by  Thrasyllus,  the 
victorious  choregus,  and  dedicated  to  Bac- 
chus. The  entrance  was  decorated  with  a 
portico  in  Pentelic  marble,  and  on  the  en- 
tablature was  a  colossal  statue  of  Bacchus, 
now  in  the  British  Museum. 

The  Temple  of  Theseus  is  the  best  pre- 
served of  all  the  temples  of  Athens  or 
Greece,  and  even  of  those  that  remain  in 
Italy  and  Sicily.  It  was  built  by  Cymon, 
eon  of  Miltiades,  to  receive  the  remains  of 
Theseus,  which  he  had  found,  by  the  assist- 
ance of  an  oracle,  in  the  island  of  Scyros. 
It  is  a  peripteral  hexastyle,  with  C  columns 
on  each  front  and  13  on  the  sides.  The 
honors  of  this  temple  were  divided  with 
Hercules,  and  10  metopes  on  the  eastern 
facade  represent  the  exploits  of  that  hero, 
while  4  only  (those  on  the  sides)  are  devo- 
ted to  Theseus.  The  walls  and  34  columns 
of  the  Doric  order  still  remain.  This  build- 


ing was  at  one  time  converted  into  a  church, 
and  dedicated  to  St.  George. 

If  remaining  any  time  at  Athens,  be  par- 
ticular to  make  the  ascent  of  Mount  Lyca- 
liettus,  and  to  visit  the  village  and  plain  of 
Marathon  and  the  quarries  of  Pentelicus. 

Mount  l.yfiilvtlns  is  the  peaked  MI  mm  it, 
considerably  higher  than  the  citadel,  on  the 
northeastern  side  of  the  city.  This  hill  is 
called  by  the  modern  Greeks  the  Mountain 
of  St.  George,  from  the  church  dedicated 
to  that  saint  which  crowns  the  summit. 
Lycabettus  is  the  most  favorable  point  for 
studying  the  city  of  Athens  and  its  sur- 
roundings, and  for  tracing  the  boundaries 
of  the  ancient  city ;  the  view  obtained  is 
truly  superb. 

Mount  Pentelicus  rises  3GCO  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  at  a  distance  of 
about  10  miles  from  Athens.  The  princi- 
pal quarry  is  about  halfway  up  the  moun- 
tain, and  the  traces  of  the  work  of  the  an- 
cient Athenians  are  plainly  visible.  Near 
the  quarry  is  a  grotto  of  stalactites  about 
50  feet  high  and  90  deep ;  at  the  entrance 
a  small  chapel  has  been  erected,  ornament- 
ed with  veiy  poor  paintings.  The  ascent 
of  the  mountain  requires  about  two  hours. 
The  view  obtained  from  the  summit  is  in- 
teresting, both  from  the  immensity  of  the 
panorama  and  the  scenes  which  it  recalls. 

The  excursion  to  Marathon  may  be  madu 
in  one  day  by  ordering  a  relay  of  horses  at 
Cephissia,  but  it  is  better  to  devote  two  for 
the  purpose,  taking  Mount  Pentelicus  on 
the  way. 

We  refer  travelers  to  Dodworth's  Athens 
for  fuller  particulars.  If  you  prefer  riding 
from  Athens  to  Piraeus  instead  of  taking 
the  train,  be  particular  in  making  a  bar- 
gain for  a  carriage,  else  you  will  be  swin- 
dled. A  Greek  hackman  is  worse  than  one 
of  New  York,  and  that  is  as  bad  as  the  law- 
allows.  If  alone,  $1  is  sufficient  for  both 
ways;  if  with  company,  fay  four  persons, 
$1  50,  and  the  driver  will  be  well  paid. 

From  Pinrus  to  Corinth  by  shr/ina,  ]''pi- 
daurux,  N(nip!i<i.  and  Argos.  The  island 
of  ./:'f/inn  is  about  20  miles  distant  from  Pi- 
raeus. It  owed  its  name  to  the  daughter 
of  the  river-god  Asopus,  and  was  in  ancient 
times  the  seat  of  a  flourishing  colony  of 
about  '200, (Hid  persons.  To-day  there  are 
not  more  than  !)(IOO  inhabiting  the  island. 
Their  decline  began  in  the  time  of  Pericles, 
when  they  engaged  in  a  naval  war  with 
995 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


ARGOS. 


the  Athenians,  and  suffered  severe  defeat. 
The  modern  city  of  vEgina  offers  nothing 
of  remarkable  interest.  The  Museum,  Li- 
brary, and  Lazaretto,  erected  during  the 
presidency  of  Capo  d'Istrias  for  barracks, 
are  the  finest  buildings.  The  antiquities 
of  the  Museum  of  ^Egina  have  all  been 
transported  to  Athens.  Near  the  port  may 
be  seen  the  ruins  of  a  Temple  of  Venus;  one 
column  only  remains  standing,  most  of  the 
materials  having  been  emplo3Ted  by  Capo 
d'Istrias  in  the  construction  of  the  quay. 

The  Temple  of  Minerva,  known  by  many 
as  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Panhelleniifs,  is 
situated  on  the  coast,  about  two  hours  and 
a  half  from  ^Egina.  It  stands  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a  hill  commanding  a  view  of  most 
of  the  island,  and  is  believed  to  be  one  of 
the  most  ancient  temples  in  Greece.  Twen- 
ty-two Doric  columns,  with  their  architrave, 
are  still  standing.  It  was  built  of  a  soft  j 
porous  stone  coated  with  a  stucco.  Under 
the  temple  is  a  cave,  near  the  entrance  to 
which  were  found,  in  1811,  the  sculptures 
of  the  pediments,  which  are  now  in  the  Mu- 
seum of  Munich. 

From  JEgina.  to  Pidhavro,  the  ancient 
Epidaurus,  is  about  11  miles.  Epidaurus 
was  at  one  tims  one  of  the  greatest  com- 
mercial cities  of  the  Peloponnesus,  and  sent 
its  ships  to  aid  in  the  battle  of  Salamis ; 
to-day  it  has  barely  180  inhabitants,  and 
but  few  small  boats.  At  a  short  distance 
from  here  is  Priatha,  where  the  first  Con- 
stituent Assembly  met  in  1821. 

From  Epidaurus  to  Nauplia,  by  way  of 
Hiero,  requires  about  one  day.  Hiero  was 
one  of  the  most  celebrated  places  in  Greece, 
and  was  frequented  by  invalids  from  all 
parts  of  the  country,  who  came  here  to  re- 
cover health.  The  splendor  of  the  offer- 
ings with  which  it  was  ornamented,  its 
sanctity  and  riches,  were  renowned.  The 
sanctuary  was  situated  at  one  end  of  the 
plain,  and  was  inclosed  on  two  sides  l>v 
steep  hills,  and  on  the  two  others  by  walls, 
remains  of  which  may  still  be  seen.  Ev- 
ery four  years  were  celebrated  ihe  fetes  of 
-.•Ksculapius.  Among  the  antiquities,  the 
theatre  of  Polycletus  is  the  most  interest- 
ing, and  one  of  the  best  preserved  of  the 
kind  in  Greece.  P'ifty-four  rows  of  seats 
in  white  marble  still  remain  entire;  the 
whole  theatre  was  capable  of  containing 
12,000  persons.  Continuing  our  route,  and 
passing  through  Ligourio,  we  arrive  at 
096 


Nauplia,  the  most  important  city  of  Greece 
in  a  military  point  of  view ;  it  is  surround- 
ed by  fine  fortifications,  and  protected  by 
the  forts  of  Palamsde  and  Itskale,  the  lat- 
ter built  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Acropo- 
lis. The  founder  of  the  city  wasNauplius, 
father  of  the  unfortunate  Palamede,  the 
victim  of  Ulysses.  Nauplia  rose  to  some 
importance  during  the  time  of  the  Cru- 
sades, and,  being  taken  by  the  French  and 
Venetians  in  1205,  became  the  capital  of  a 
duchy  belonging  to  the  family  of  Ville- 
hardouin.  From  1829  to  1834  it  was  the 
seat  of  the  Greek  government,  and  in- 
creased considerably  in  size  and  industry. 
The  Church  of  St.  Spiridion  is  generally 
visited  by  strangers;  here  Capo  d'Istrias 
was  assassinated.  His  place  of  residence 
is  also  shown. 

The  Fortress  of  Palamede  stands  on  the 
summit  of  a  mountain  of  the  same  name, 
which  rises  712  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  The  first  fortifications  were  built  by 
the  Franks  ;  more  were  added  by  the  Ve- 
netians, and  it  is  at  the  present  day  consid- 
ered impregnable.  The  citadel  incloses 
seven  forts,  and  is  in  the  form  of  a  penta- 
gon. During  the  latter  War  of  Indepen- 
dence it  was  conquered  only  by  famine. 
Leaving  Nauplia,  a  ride  of  2-£  hours  brings 
us  to  Argos,  passing  on  the  way  the  ruins 
of  Tiryns. 

A  rgos  is  a  large  town  of  4  or  5000  in- 
habitants, lying  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  which 
is  the  Larissa  or  citadel.  It  has  been  the 
scene  of  so  many  contests  that  the  remains 
of  antiquity  are  scarce.  The  theatre,  situ- 
ated above  the  village,  is  cut  in  the  side  of 
the  hill  Larissa.  It  was  capable  of  contain- 
ing 20,000  persons,  and  more  than  sixty 
rows  of  seats  still  remain  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation.  Near  by  are  the  ruins  of  a 
Roman  construction  in  brick.  The  citadel, 
which  crowns  the  top  of  the  hill,  occupies 
the  site  of  the  ancient  acropolis,  and  in  its 
walls  may  be  seen  the  columns  and  other 
materials  which  formed  a  portion  of  that 
edifice.  From  Argos  to  Mycence  requires 
one  hour  and  a  half.  This  city  was  built 
by  Perseus,  1300  years  B.C.,  and  was  a 
place  of  great  importance,  being  the  capi- 
tal of  Agamemnon  until  468,  when  it  was 
taken  by  the  Argives.  It  was  the  theiitro 
of  many  crimes,  which  have  inspired  the 
tragic  poets;  here  Agamemnon  was  assas- 
sinated by-iEgistheus  and  Clytemnestra. 


MYCF.N.K. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


ELKCSI-;. 


The  Citadel  stands  on  the  summit  of  a 
steep  hill,  and  is  surrounded  bj-  walls  20 
feet  high.  The  entrance  to  the  citadel  is 
through  the  celebrated  (jtite  <>f  /.long.  This 
is  composed  of  three  ininien>e  blocks,  the 
one  forming  the  lintel  being  15  feet  long. 
OH  this  rests  a  triangular  block  of  lim  - 
stone,  with  a  bas-relief  representing  two 
lions  face  to  face,  with  their  fore  paws  rest- 
ing uii  the  base  of  a  column  which  sepa- 
ritos  them.  The  heads  of  the  lions  are 
:o.)\v  gone.  The  approach  to  this  gate  is 
through  an  avenue  50  feet  long  and  30 
will.',  with  a  wall  on  each  side. 

Tha  Treasury  ofAtreus  is  a  subterranean 
construction,  |Hjrlectly  preserved,  common- 
ly called  the  Tomb  of  Agamemnon.  An 
avenue  20  feet  long,  now  in  ruins,  led  to 
tha  door  of  the  building,  on  each  side  of 
which  stood  two  columns.  The  door  is 
formed  of  three  large  blocks,  the  lintel  be- 
ing 30  feet  long.  Above  the  lintel  is  a  tri- 
angular empty  space,  supposed  to  have 
been  occupied  by  a  bas-relief  similar  to  the 
Gate  of  the  Lions.  The  building  is  di- 
vided into  two  chambers.  The  first  is  of 
circular  form,  surmounted  by  a  dome  40 
feet  in  height  by  45  in  diameter.  The  sum- 
mit of  the  dome  opens  on  the  upper  p.irt 
of  the  hill  in  which  the  monument  is  cut. 
The  traces  of  copper  nails  found  in  the 
walls  prove  this  chamber  to  have  been  cov- 
ered \\it\\  brazen  plates,  as  was  customary 
in  the  time  of  the  early  Greeks,  and  as  Pau- 
sanias  describes  the  chamber  to  be  in  which 
Dana;  was  confined  by  Acrisius  at  Argos. 
The  second  chamber  is  square  and  small, 
roughly  cut  in  the  rock,  and  served  proba- 
bly as  a  place  of  sepulchre,  while  in  the 
first  were  placed  arms,  jewels,  and  precious 
ornaments,  as  was  the  custom  of  the  Greeks 
in  their  funeral  monuments,  and  which  con- 
sequently gave  them  the  name  of  treasu- 
ri  -.  Not  far  from  here  are  three  tombs, 
coiistrui  t;'(l  exactly  like  that  of  Agamem- 
non, but  now  entirely  in  ruins.  On  the 
northern  side  of  the  Acropolis  are  also  the 
remains  of  an  ancient  gate,  defended  by  a 
long  avenue  like  tin-  Gate  of  Lions. 

This  time  from  Mycenae  to  Corinth  is 
about  SJ  hours.  Corinth  was  founded  1900 
years  B.C.,  and  was  one  of  the  most  opu- 
lent cities  of  ancient  Greece.  Her  pecul- 
iar position  on  the  isthmus  rendered  her 
the  commercial  centre  between  Europe  and 
Asia,  and  the  sources  of  her  wealth  and 


power  were  increased  by  the  Isthmi.iii 
(iaini-s.  which  took  place  in  the  neighbor- 
hood every  three  years.  In  'J24  !!.('.  she 
joined  the  Achii'an  League,  and  became  the 
seat  of  the  as.-eml>li<->  of  that  confedera- 
tion. She  excited  the  cupidity  of  the  Ro- 
mans, and  was  taken  by  them  under  Mum- 
mius  (UC),  when  the  city  was  almost  en- 
tirely destroyed.  It  was  rebuilt  by  Julius 
Csesar,  but  was  again  devastated  by  Alaric 
the  Goth,  by  the  Slavonians,  the  Latins, 
the  Turks,  the  Knights  of  Malta,  and  the 
Venetians.  In  1715  it  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  Turks,  in  whose  power  it  remained 
until  1821.  It  is  now  a  miserable  and 
thinly  populated  village.  The  only  ruins 
of  antiquity  are  those  of  the  Temple,  situ- 
ated we»t  of  the  modern  village.  Seven 
columns  still  remain,  live  looking  west, 
and  three  toward  the  south  (the  column 
forming  the  angle  being  twice  counted). 
Five  have  their  entablature  still  resting 
upon  them,  forming  the  angle  of  the  build- 
ing. The  columns  are  of  the  Doric  order, 
but  heavy  and  ill  proportioned  ;  they  are  5 
feet  10  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and 
arc  formed  of  limestone  covered  with  stuc- 
co. Their  appearance  proves  them  to  be 
anterior  to  the  temple  of  Egina,  or  to  the 
temple  of  Theseus  at  Athens.  It  is  uncer- 
tain to  what  divinity  this  building  was  con- 
secrated ;  some  think  to  Fortune,  others  to 

i  Minerva.  Not  far  from  the  temple  are  the 
ruins  of  some  Roman  baths. 

The  Acro-Corinthtu,  the  celebrated  for- 
tress of  Corinth,  stands  at  an  elevation  of 
1800  feet,  and,  after  Fort  Palamede  at  Nau- 
plia,  is  the  finest  in  Greece.  There  is  but 
one  point  from  which  it  may  be  annoyed 

j  by  cannon,  of  which  Mohammed  II.  took 
advantage  in  his  siege,  but  before  the  in- 
troduction of  artillery  it  was  considered 
impregnable.  Within  the  fortress  there  is 
little  of  interest,  every  description  of  build- 
ing being  mingled  there  in  a  mass.  Sev- 
eral cisterns,  hewn  in  the  rock,  receive 
rain  -  water,  besides  two  natural  springs 
which  rise  in  the  hill.  The  panorama  ob- 
tained from  the  fortress  repays  the  diffi- 
culty of  the  ascent. 

From  Athens  to  JfMMJMyU  by  Eleusis, 
Meyara,  Corinth,  Afegaspdion,  Helice,  Vos- 

iiid  J'li/ras. 

Eleusis,  the  first  town  on  this  route,  owed 
its  celebrity  to  the  temples  of  Ceres  and 
Proserpine.     It  formed  one  of  the  twelve 
997 


MKGASPELION. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


LET  AUTO. 


original  states  of  Attica.  The  ancient  tem- 
ple of  Ceres  was  burned  by  the  Persians 
in  484,  and  restored  in  the  time  of  Peri- 
cles. The  plan  was  designed  by  Ictinus, 
the  architect  of  the  Parthenon,  and  the 
temple  is  described  by  Strabo  as  the  largest 
in  Greece.  One  column  and  a  part  of  the 
wall  are  all  that  now  remain.  During 
the  dominion  of  the  Romans,  Eleusis  owed 
great  prosperity  to  the  celebration  of  its 
mysteries.  The  city  was  destroyed  by 
Alaric  396  A.D.  The  modern  village  pre- 
sents little  of  interest.  Eleusis  is  four 
hours  from  Athens,  and  four  hours  more 
bring  us  to  Megara,  one  of  the  most  flour- 
ishing cities  in  Greece  during  the  seventh 
century.  The  temples  described  by  Pau- 
sanias  have  entirely  disappeared ;  no  ruins 
remain  to  attract  the  traveler.  The  peo- 
ple of  Megara  were  renowned  for  their  gay- 
ety.  and  comedy  is  said  to  have  arisen  here. 
This  city  was  also  the  birthplace  of  Euclid. 
The  time  from  Megara  to  Corinth  is  11 
hours ;  the  latter  has  been  described  above. 

Meyaspelion  is  about  two  days'  journey 
from  Corinth.  The  convent,  one  of  the 
earliest  monastic  buildings  in  Greece,  is 
said  by  the  monks  to  have  been  partly 
built  by  the  Greek  emperors  John  Canta- 
cuzene  and  Constantine  Paljeologus.  It 
is  a  wall  built  in  the  front  of  an  immense 
cavern  which  forms  the  interior  of  the  con- 
vent. In  the  church  is  kept  a  picture  of 
the  Virgin,  attributed  to  St.  Luke,  which 
is  held  in  great  veneration  throughout 
Greece.  It  is  said  to  have  spoken  sev- 
eral times  during  the  War  of  Indepen- 
dence, encouraging  the  Greeks,  and  also  to 
have  wept  on  the  occasion  of  a  defeat.  In 
the  floor  of  the  church  is  a  mosaic  repre- 
senting the  sun,  moon,  and  an  eagle  with 
two  heads,  in  honor  of  the  emperors  who 
endowed  the  convent.  The  monks  are 
about  three  hundred  in  number,  lazy  and 
illiterate,  having  a  greater  knowledge  of 
fire-arms  than  of  the  dead  languages.  This 
they  proved  by  their  spirited  defense  of 
the  convent  in  1826,  when  besieged  by 
Ibrahim  Pasha.  About  three  hours  and  a 
half  from  Megaspelion  once  stood  Helice, 
one  of  the  twelve  cities  of  Achaia,  which 
was  swallowed  by  an  earthquake  373  B.C. 
Two  hours  more  bring  us  to 

Vostizza,  formerly  yEgium,  mentioned  by 
Homer,  and  one  of  the  chief  cities  of  the 
Achaian  League ;  it  is  now  a  small  town 
998 


of  4500  inhabitants.  Of  the  ancient  build- 
ings nothing  remains.  The  modern  vil- 
lage was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in 
1819,  but  afterward  was  rebuilt  on  a  much 
larger  scale.  The  distance  from  Vostizza 
to  Patras  is  accomplished  in  about  eight 
hours. 

Palrag. — The  Hotel  of  Great  Britain  is  the 
best.  Steamers  :  Austrian  Lloyds  leave 
for  Missolonghi,  Zante,  Cephalonia,  St. 
Maura,  and  Corfu,  even-  Saturday ;  for 
Lepanto,  Vostizza,  Amphissa,  and  Loutra- 
ki,  on  Thursdays.  Patras  was  the  only 
one  of  the  twelve  cities  of  Achaia  that  up- 
held the  Athenians  in  the  Peloponneshn 
War.  The  city  was  partly  destroyed  dur- 
ing the  war  with  the  Romans,  and  after- 
ward rebuilt  by  Augustus.  Under  the 
Greek  emperors  Patras  became  a  duchy. 
After  belonging  for  some  time  to  the  Ve- 
netians, it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Turks, 
in  whose  power  it  remained  until  1821, 
when  it  was  the  first  to  rise  in  the  War  of 
Independence.  The  modern  city  is  situ- 
ated about  550  yards  from  the  sea,  and  is 
the  first  commercial  town  of  continental 
Greece. 

Missolonc/ki  has  been  immortalized  by 
events  which  occurred  during  the  War  of 
Independence.  Here,  in  1822,  Mavrocor' 
dato,  with  500  men,  sustained  a  siege  of  two 
months  against  a  Turkish  force  of  1-1,000, 
commanded  by  Omar  ben  Vrioni.  In  1825 
it  was  again  besieged  by  the  Ottoman 
army,  and  held  out  for  a  year  against  the 
repeated  assaults  of  an  immensely  superior 
force.  In  April,  1826,  the  besieged  deter- 
mined to  cut  their  way  through  the  ranks 
of  their  opponents  and  escape.  Placing 
the  women  in  their  centre,  dressed  as  men, 
they  sallied  forth,  but  the  enemy  had  be- 
come aware  of  their  intention,  and  but  2000 
escaped.  The  remainder  determined  to 
sell  their  lives  as  dearly  as  possible,  and 
allured  the  Turks  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  powder  magazine,  when  the  whole  ex- 
ploded, burying  conqueror  and  conquered 
in  a  common  tomb.  Lord  Byron  died  at 
Missolonghi  in  1824. 

From,  Missohmffhi  to  A  /hens  by  Lcpanto, 
Galixidi,  Amphissa,  Delphi,  Lebadea,  and 
Thebes. 

Lepanto,  about  seven  hours  from  Misso- 
longhi, is  celebrated  for  the  naval  battle 
fought  off  the  gulf  among  the  Curzolari 
Islands,  to  which  it  gave  its  name.  Ths 


DELPHI. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


MOUNT  PARNASSUS. 


port  is  small,  and  of  a  circular  form,  with 
a  very  narrow  entrance  flanked  by  small 
towers ;  the  water  is  too  shallow  to  allow 
any  but  small  vessels  to  enter. 

Gcdixidi  is  situated  at  the  extremity  of 
a  rocky  promontory,  and  occupies  the  site 
of  ancient  Evantha.  It  possesses  two  good 
ports,  and  a  large  quantity  of  merchant 
vessels.  The  town  was  burned  by  the 
Turks  In  1821,  but  has  since  risen  from  its 
ruins.  The  route  from  Galixidi  to  Am- 
phissa  occupies  about  four  hours,  and  is 
both  fatiguing  and  uninteresting. 

Amphissa  or  Salona  is  charmingly  situ- 
ated about  ten  miles  from  the  sea,  and 
surrounded  by  olive  groves.  The  castle 
stands  on  the  foundations  of  the  Acropolis, 
considerable  portions  of  which  still  remain. 
In  the  interior  are  the  ruins  of  two  church- 
es, Fratik  and  Byzantine.  Opposite  the 
village  is  an  antique  grotto,  containing,  ac- 
cording to  the  tradition  of  the  country,  the 
tomb  of  the  Egyptian  Phocas. 

Delphi  or  Castri  owes  its  celebrity  and  j 
existence  to  the  Pythian  oracle.  The  sane-  ! 
tuary  was  for  a  longtime  a  dependency  of 
( 'ri-sa,  until  gradually  a  city  rose  around 
the  temple,  and  became  independent  about  ; 
595  B.C.  The  oracle  played  a  most  im- 
portant rule  in  the  history  of  Greece ;  no 
war  was  declared,  no  enterprise  under- 
taken without  consulting  the  Pythia.  The 
temple  was  destroyed  in  548  by  fire,  and 
reconstructed  with  greater  magnificence  by 
contributions  from  all  Greece.  The  sums 
expended  amounted  to  nearly  $600,000. 
In  480  B.C.  Xerxes  sent  a  detachment  to 
pillage  the  temple  ;  frightful  phenomena 
were  manifested ;  enormous  rocks  rolled  \ 
from  the  mountains  upon  the  Persians,  and 
crushed  a  great  number ;  the  rest,  panic- 
stricken,  escaped.  The  temple  was,  how- 
ever, pillaged  by  Sylla,  and  the  oracie  was 
abolished  by  the  Emperor  Xero.  It  was 
restored  by  Hadrian  and  the  Antonines  to 
its  ancient  splendor.  It  was  consulted  by 
Julian,  but  finally  abolished  by  Thcodosi- 
us.  The  modern  village  of  Castri  occupies 
the  site  of  the  ancient  city  ami  of  the  tem- 
ple of  Apollo,  and  many  of  the  present 
houses  are  constructed  of  their  materials. 
Some  of  the  walls  still  remain,  and  serin 
to  have  formed  terraces  rising  one  above 
another,  which  the  nature  of  the  ground 
rendered  necessary  for  the  establishment 
of  the  sacred  edifice.  Conjectures  only  can  \ 


be  made  concerning  the  fissure  over  which 
the  sacred  tripod  was  placed  whence  is- 
sued the  intoxicating  vapors  which  threw 
the  Pythia  into  a  prophetic  ecstasy. 

The  Castalian  fountain  is  situated  at  tha 
entrance  of  a  deep  and  narrow  gorge,  and, 
after  threading  its  way  almost  impercepti- 
bly among  the  rocks,  forms  a  little  brook 
flowing  toward  the  monastery  of  Panagia, 
and  finally  losing  itself  in  the  Pleistus. 
At  the  source  is  a  large  quadrangular  ba- 
sin, with  steps  to  it  cut  in  the  rock,  and 
vulgarly  called  the  bath  of  the  Pythia. 
The  monastery  of  Panagia  marks  the  site 
of  the  ancient  gymnasium.  In  the  gar- 
den is  a  fine  Hellenic  wall,  besides  frag- 
ments of  statues  and  two  large  bas-reliefs, 
one  representing  a  torso  and  the  other  a 
quadriga. 

Travelers  wishing  to  visit  the  Corycian 
Cave,  and  make  the  ascent  of  Mount  Par- 
nassus, may  start  from  Delphi  or  Arachova. 
Mules  and  guides  are  more  easily  procured 
at  the  latter  place.  The  price  for  a  mule 
and  guide  is  $1  50  or  $2.  Those  not  wish- 
ing to  make  the  entire  ascent  may  go  to  the 
Corycian  Cave,  and  return  to  Arachova,  an 
excursion  of  five  hours,  while  those  who 
ascend  the  mountain  descend  to  Davlia. 

The  Corycian  Cave  is  reached  after  a 
steep  ascent.  It  is  a  fine  grotto,  300  feet 
long  by  190  wide.  This  cavern  was  con- 
secrated to  Pan  and  the  Kymphs.  Majes- 
tic stalactites  hang  from  the  roof  in  most 
graceful  forms,  and  the  stalagmites  on  the 
floor  and  sides  are  still  more  fantastic.  At 
the  end  of  the  vault  is  a  small  damp  pas- 
sage, leading  into  a  much  smaller  chamber. 
From  the  most  ancient  times  this  grotto 
served  as  a  place  of  refuge  for  the  inhabit- 
ants of  Delphi,  and  also  in  later  days  as  the 
rendezvous  of  the  bandits  of  Parnassus. 

Returning  from  the  Corycian  Cave  to 
Arachova,  and  starting  from  that  village, 
the  ascent  of  Mount  Parnassus  requires  four 
or  five  hours.  At  the  summit  is  a  small 
plain,  lying  at  the  foot  of  a  crater  whose 
sides  are  the  highest  points  of  the  moun- 
tain :  these,  however,  am  very  difficult  of 
axvnt,  being  covered  with  ice  and  snow, 
The  view  obtained  from  the  mountain  i- 
glorious.  To  the  north  and  northeast  may 
be  seen  the  plain  of  Thessaly,  the  Pindus 
with  its  branches,  and  the  snowy  top  of 
Olympus ;  also  a  vague  outline  of  Mount 
Athos.  On  the  east  the  plains  of  Boectia 
999 


CH.SRONKA. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


TRIPOLITZA. 


and  the  yEgean  Sea,  dotted  with  numerous 
islands.  On  the  .south  the  Gulf  of  Corinth 
and  the  Moreii;  and  on  the  west  the  moun- 
tains of  y£tolia,of  Acarnania,  and  tlie  Ionian 
Sea.  The  descent  of  the  mountain  is  made 
on  the  southeastern  side,  and  occupies  about 
4J  hours  before  reaching  Davlia. 

Going  from  Davlia  to  Lebadea,  we  pass 
through  Chaeronea,  the  theatre  of  many 
great  scenes.  Standing,  as  it  does,  in  a 
plain  at  the  entrance  of  Bceotia,  it  has  been 
the  l.attL'-ground  of  many  armies.  In  447 
B.C.  the  Boeotians  vanquished  the  Athe- 
nians ;  iii  008  Philip  of  Macedon  gained 
the  battle  against  the  Boeotians  and  Athe- 
nians, which  accomplished  the  subjugation 
of  Grecca ;  and  in  86  the  generals  or  r\iith- 
ridates  were  vanquished  by  SylLi.  The 
last  battle  was  described  by  Hularch. 
That  great  writer  was  born,  lived,  and 
died  in  Cha;ronea.  Tiie  most  interesting 
monument  in  Chaeronca  is  the  marble  lion 
erected  on  the  tomb  of  the  Boeotians  who 
were  slain  in  the  battle  with  Philip.  This 
monument  is  now  in  fragments,  having 
been  blown  up  with  gunpowder,  during 
the  War  of  Independence,  by  the  patriot 
Odysseus,  who  supposed  it  to  contain  hid- 
den treasure.  The  head  is  happily  un- 
touched, and  of  the  finest  workmanship. 
In  tho  Church  of  Panagia,  in  the  city,  is 
shown  a  marble  seat,  called  the  throne  of 
Plutarch;  also  several  inscriptions  illus- 
trative of  the  worship  of  Osiris. 

Lebadea  is  two  hours  distant  from  Chrc- 
ronea,  and  situated  on  the  bank  of  theHer- 
cyn:i.  This  river  is  a  torrent  which  de- 
scends from  Mount  Helicon,  and  rushes 
with  great  force  from  a  narrow  gorge,  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Hieron,  or  sanctuary  of 
Trophonius,  for  which  Lebadea  was  so  cel- 
ebrated. The  two  springs  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  village,  one  hot  and  one 
cold,  are  supposed  to  be  those  of  Mnemos- 
yne and  Lethe,  mentioned  by  Pausanias ; 
but  as  neither  of  these  springs  rise  in  a 
cavern,  as  described  by  him,  there  is  still 
some  doubt  of  their  identity. 

Thebe*  (1  hours,  30  minutes)  is  situated 
on  an  insulated  hill,  the  summit  of  which 
was  formerly  occupied  by  the  Acropolis. 
All  traces  of  its  ancient  splendor  have  dis- 
appeared. The  modern  village  is  small 
and  poor,  situated  between  two  streams, 
Dirce  and  Ismenus.  Eleven  hours'  jour- 
ney brings  you  to  Athens. 
1000 


From  Athens  to  Chalcis,  the  direct  route 
requires  but  six  hours.  Chalcis,  the  capi- 
tal of  the  island  of  Kuboea,  or  Negropont. 
is  situated  on  the  shore,  and  communicates 
by  a  bridge  with  the  Boeotian  coast.  The 
first  bridge  built  over  the  Euripus  was  dur- 
ing the  Peloponnesian  War;  it  was  fortified 
i  in  the  time  of  Alexander,  but  140  years  later 
it  had  entirely  disappeared.  It  was  again 
rebuilt  about  167  B.C.  The  Euripus  is  the 
narrowest  portion  of  the  Channel  of  Egri- 
pos.  A  small  island  stands  in  the  centre, 
connected  by  a  stone  bridge  with  the  Boeo- 
tian shore,  and  by  a  turning-bridge  with 
Chalcis,  allowing  the  passage  of  vessels. 
It  is  under  this  bridge  that  occurs  the  phe- 
nomenon of  the  tides,  unexplained  at  the 
present  day.  The  current  flows  for  some 
time  with  great  rapidity  from  north  to 
south,  and,  after  a  few  minutes  of  immo- 
bility, flows  as  quickly  from  south  to  north. 
These  changes  occur  as  often  as  fourteen 
times  in  twenty-four  hours.  The  fortress 
of  Chalcis  stands  at  the  entrance  of  the 
bridge,  and  is  a  construction  of  different 
ages,  combining  the  square  towers  of  an- 
tiquity with  Venetian  bastions  and  Turk- 
ish walls.  In  the  interior  is  an  enormour, 
cannon,  similar  to  the  one  used  by  Moham- 
med II.  at  the  siege  of  Constantinople. 
The  island  of  Euboea  was  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal possessions  of  the  republic  of  Venice 
in  the  days  of  its  prosperity,  and  the  Lion 
of  St.  Mark  may  still  be  seen  over  one  of 
its  gates.  It  was  conquered  by  Moham- 
med II.  in  1470. 

From  Athens  tosEgina,  Nauplia,  Tripo- 
litza, Sparta,  Leondari,  Andritsena,  Olym- 
pla,  Elis,  and  Patras. 

The  trip  from  Athens  to  Nauplia  lias 
been  described  above. 

Tripolitza  was  founded  in  1770,  and  be- 
came, during  the  dominion  of  the  Turks, 
the  capital  of  the  Morca.  It  was  taken  by 
the  Greeks  in  1820,  but,  being  reconquered 
by  Ibrahim  Pasha,  was  razed  to  the  ground, 
and  is  now  only  rising  from  its  ruins.  From 
Tripolitza  to  Sparta,  eleven  hours.  This 
city  was  founded  about  11)10  B.C.,  but  its 
great  prosperity  dates  from  the  time  of  Ly- 
curgus,  845  B.C.,  whose  famous  code  in 
limiting  the  royal  power,  and  giving  more 
place  to  the  democracy,  rendered  Sparta, 
by  its  rigid  laws,  a  city  of  warriors.  From 
this  time  it  gained  in  power,  and,  in  two 
bloody  wars  with  Messenc  and  Argos,  o!> 


LEONDARI. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


NAVARIN. 


tained  supremacy  over  the  entire  Pelo- 
ponnesus. The  jealousy  of  Sparta  and 
Athens  caused  the  Peloponnesian  War, 
which  lasted  from  431  to  404,  and  ended  in 
the  defeat  of  Athens.  This  victory,  how- 
ever, was  the  cause  of  great  evil  to  the 
Spartans,  causing  them  to  relax  their  rigid 
laws,  and  to  introduce  the  luxuriant  habits 
of  the  Athenians.  From  this  time  it  began 
to  decline.  Sparta  was  taken  by  Alaric  in 
the  fourth  century  ;  in  14CO  she  fell  into 
the  hands  of  Mohammed  II.,  and  was  de- 
stroyed by  Malatesta  in  1463.  Modern 
Sparta  is  a  very  pretty  village,  containing 
several  fine  houses,  a  bazar,  and  a  cafe. 
No  ruins  remain  but  a  quadrangular  mon- 
ument called  the  Tomb  of  Leonidas,  and 
the  Theatre.  The  latter  was  not  used  for 
dramatic  exhibitions,  which  were  forbid- 
den by  the  code  of  Lycurgus,  but  for  gym- 
nastic exercises  and  public  assemblies. 
The  central  part  of  the  edifice  is  cut  in  the 
hill,  but  the  wings  are  artificial,  and  com- 
posed of  quadrangular  stones,  uncemented. 
The  seats  have  been  taken  away  by  the  in- 
habitants of  Mistra,  to  whom  the  building 
served  for  a  quarry. 

Leowlariis  about  eight  hours  and  a  half 
from  Sparta,  and  is  a  town  of  picturesque 
appearance.  Its  old  castle  stands  in  ruins 
on  a  hill  commanding  the  city.  Continu- 
.ing  our  route,  we  reach  A  ndritsena  in  about 
ten  hours.  This  is  a  pretty  village,  re- 
markable for  its  cleanliness  and  the  air  of 
comfort  pervading  it.  From  Andritsena 
we  reach  Olympia  in  seven  hours  and  a 
half.  This  was  not,  in  ancient  times,  a 
city,  but  a  sacred  wood  consecrated  to  Ju- 
piter, under  the  name  of  A  Ids.  Here  were 
celebrated,  every  four  years,  the  Olympic 
games,  when  all  hostilities  were  laid  aside, 
and  the  most  implacable  enemies  met  on 
this  neutral  ground,  peacefully  to  contest 
for  a  prize.  The  Olympic  Games  were  first 
permanently  established  in  884;  but  the 
era  of  the  Olympiads  was  first  reckoned  in 
776  B.C.,  after  the  victory  of  Coroebus. 
The  only  ruins  now  to  be  seen  in  Olympia 
are  those  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter."  The 
fluted  Doric  columns  are  of  enormous  size. 
It  was  in  this  temple  that  stood  the  colos- 
sal statue  of  Jupiter  Olympus,  the  chef- 
d'oeuvre  of  Phidias,  made  in  gold  and  ivorv, 
and  counted  one  of  the  seven  wonders  of 
tho  world.  Ancient  Elis  was  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  Peneus,  and  occupied  a 


mountain  called  Belvedere  by  the  Vene- 
tians, now  called  Kaloskopi.  About  twelve 
hours  brings  us  to  Patras,  already  de- 
scribed. 

From  Sparta  to  Mistra,  Kalamata,  Co- 
ron,  Modon,  Navarin,  and  Pylos. 

Mistra  was  founded  in  1207,  by  William 
de  Villehardouin,  and  rose  to  great  import- 
ance. The  city  was  almost  entirely  de- 
stroyed by  the  Turks  during  the  War  of  In- 
dependence, and  now  presents  nothing  but 
a  mass  of  ruined  houses  and  churches,  the 
population  having  almost  entirely  removed 
to  Sparta.  From  the  citadel,  situated  on 
the  summit  of  a  hill  half  an  hour  distant,  a 
fine  view  may  be  obtained. 

Kalamata  occupies  the  site  of  ancient 
Pherae,  often  mentioned  by  Homer,  and  is 
at  the  present  day  the  most  important  city 
of  Messenia.  It  is  situated  about  a  mile 
from  the  sea,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ne- 
don,  and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  in 
oil,  silk,  and  figs.  Nine  hours  brings  us  to 
Coron,  founded  by  Epaminondas.  Of  the 
ancient  city  there  are  few  remains.  Part 
of  the  ancient  mole  which  protected  the 
port  may  be  seen,  also  the  walls  of  the 
Acropolis,  barely  rising  above  the  ground. 
Recent  researches  have  brought  to  light 
two  sarcophagi,  both  well  preserved ;  on 
one  is  a  fine  bas-relief  representing  a  se- 
ries of  combats  against  the  Centaurs. 

Modon  is  reached  in  six  hours.  It  is 
situated  on  a  rocky  promontory,  which  ad- 
vances toward  the  island  of  Sapienza.  A 
little  island,  surmounted  by  a  tower,  which 
is  situated  at  the  entrance  of  the  port,  com- 
municates with  the  town  by  a  bridge.  The 
citadel  and  fortifications  of  Modon  are  im- 
portant. In  the  centre  of  the  public  square, 
which  dates  from  the  Venetians,  stands  a 
column  in  Oriental  granite,  with  a  Byzan- 
tine capital,  on  which  may  still  be  distin- 
guished a  Latin  inscription  in  honor  of  the 
Venetians  and  the  Doge  Morosini. 

Navarin  was  founded  during  the  Middle 
Ages,  and  replaced  the  ancient  Navarin  or 
Pylos.  It  was  taken  by  the  Turks  in  1500, 
and  later  by  the  Venetians,  who  retained  it 
until  1715.  It  is  principally  celebrated  for 
the  great  naval  battle  which  occurred  here 
in  I*L'S,  between  the  English.  French,  and 
Russian  fleets  on  one  side,  and  the  Turkish 
fleet  on  the  other.  The  latter  was  defeated 
with  fearful  loss.  The  citadel  of  Navarin  is 
very  strong,  and  was  constructed  by  the 
1001 


PYLOS. 


[TURKEY  AND  GREECE.] 


PYLOS. 


French  on  the  ruins  of  an  old  Venetian 
castle.  From  Navarin  an  excursion  may 
be  made  by  boat  to  Pylos,  or  ancient  Nava- 
rin. Pylos  was  situated  on  a  lofty  prom- 
1002 


ontory  surrounded  by  a  wall  built  in  the 
form  of  a  triangle.  The  castle,  situated 
on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  is  all  that  now 
remains  of  the  ancient  city. 


A  TABLE  OF  COINS. 


English  and  French  Values  in  Dollars  and  Cents,  others  in  English  Currency. 


GREAT  BRITAIN. 
Sovereign  =$4.83 

Half  Sovereign                     =  2.41}£ 

Crown                                 =  1.20 

Half  Crown                          =  .60 

Florin,  or  two  shillings       =  .46 

Half  florin,  or  one  shilling  =  .23 

Sixpence                               =  -H.J6 

Fourpence                          =  .07% 

One  penny             (nearly)  =  .02 

FRANCE. 

Double  Napoleon  =$7.70 

Napoleon                               =  3.85 
Half  Napoleon 
Quarter  Napoleoil 

Five  francs                           =  .95 

One  franc                              =  .19 

Half  franc  (fifty  centimes)  =  .09)£ 

Twenty  centimes                 =  .039/io 

Ten  centimes  (two  sous)     =  .0193/100 

Five  centimes  (one  sou)      =  .00'8/ioo 


ITALY. 


=  . 

100  centimes  =  1  franc;  100  centesimi  =  1  lira. 
Italian  paper  currency  is  much  depreciated  in 
value,  the  present  rate  being  about  27  lire=l 
sovereign. 

HOLLAND, 
fi  cents  =  about  Id. 

100  cents  =  1  florin  or  guilder  =  about    Is.  7d. 
1  gold  ducat  =      "      9s.  4d. 

1  gold  10  llorin  piece  =      "    16s.  6d. 

NORTH   GERMANY. 

1  mark  =  100  pfjj.  =  1  shilling  =  1  fr.  25c. 
20  mark  piece  (gold)  =  1  English  sovereign. 

AUSTRIA. 

10  florins  =  £1  =  25  francs. 
1  Austrian  florin  =  100  kreutzcrs  =  2  shillings. 
10  kreutzer  pieces  =  '/io  florin  =  about  2'..d. 
«  kr.  ps.  S.  (!erm.  =9  kr.  Austrian  =  about  2,J^d. 
I1!.,;  (I  S.  Germ.  =  1X  florins  Austrian  =3s. 
1  *  II        "        =  85~kreutzers     "        =ls.    8d. 
:Wkr.        "        =50        ••  "        =       lOd. 

l    '  =  1*    ':  "        =      K<1. 

3     "         "        =   4        "  "         =         Id. 

The  Austrian  paper  currency  is  much  depre- 
ciated, the  discount  constantly  varying. 


EGYPT. 

1  piastre  =  2#d. 

4  piastres  35  paras  =  Is. 
97  piastres  20  '•  =£1. 
Egyptian  sovereign  =  21s. 

RUSSIA. 

100  kopecs  =  1  silver  rouble  —  about  3s.  Id, 
3  roubles  =  1  ducat  =     "9s.  3d. 

1  gold  half  imperial  =     "    16s.  4d. 

1  paper  rouble  =  2s.  5d. 

SPAIN  AND  PORTUGAL. 
The  money  in  Portugal  affords  but  little  diffi- 
culty. It  is  reckoned  by  reis,  1000  reis  =  one 
dollar.  English  gold  is  current  in  Portugal  at 
the  rate  of  4500  reis  =  JEl;  20  reis  =  Id. ;  100 
reis  =  about  5d.  or  5%d. ;  500  reis  =  about  2s. 
3d. ;  1000  reis  or  1  dol.  =:4s.  6d.  Spanish  cur- 
rency (especially  the  copper  coinage)  is  rather 
difficult  to  understand.  The  real  is  the  ordinary 
basis  of  calculations,  and  the  following  is  an  ap- 
proximate money-table : 

8  cuartos  =  1  real  =  %  peseta  =  2^d. 
4  reals  =  1     peseta  =      lOd. )  2. 

10  reals  =  1%  pesetas  =  1  escudo  =  2s.   Od.  }   5" 
20  reals  =  5     pesetas  =  1  duro     =  4s.   2d.  )  Q 
100  reals=10  escudos=25  pesetas=£l  Os.  9d.  \  eg 
40  reals=  4  escudos=10  pesetas         8a  4d.  j  g; 

DENMARK  AND   SWEDEN. 
Ore     Copper      Ore    Silver       Gold         B.   d. 
1  —  1%  penny    10=li4U     5  kroner  =   56% 
5=   %  penny    25  — 3;^d.   10      "      =111% 
10  =  1%  penny    50  =  6%d.    20      "      =223^ 
Swedish  paper  money  is  in  riks-talers  or  kro- 
ner.   A  Swedish  riks-taler  is  equal  to  one  krono. 
Danish  paper  money  is  in  riks-taler  or  kronor; 
one  Danish  riks-taler  is  two  kronor. 

NORWAY. 

Copper  money,  3  skillings  =  IJ^d.  Silver 
money,  12  skillings  =  5J^d.  24  skillings  or  one 
mark  =  about  lid.  One  specie  dollar  =  4s.  6d. 
Paper  money  at  par.  Norwegian  paper  money 
not  taken  In  Sweden  or  Denmark. 

Danish  and  Swedish  one  krono  pieces  (silver), 
or  :>.  in.  or  20  kronor  pieces  (gold),  pass  in  Nor- 
way. Four  kronor  or  2  Dutch  silver  dollars  = 
1  specie-dollar.  One  Krono  =  30  skillings  Nor- 
wegian. 

1003 


INDEX. 


A. 

Aabogen,  1469. 

Aaby,  1334. 

Aadai,  1427. 

Aagaard,  1332. 

Aak,  1397. 

Aakirkeby,  1346. 

Aalborjf,  1889. 

to  Nibe  and  Logstor,  1334. 

Aalen,  137-2. 

Aalesiiixl,  1397,  1428. 

Aaltim,  i:i-'>. 

Aamot,  1403. 

A  ill-ail,  lii"7. 

Aarbiirg,  107T. 

Aardal,  1410. 

Aarhuus,  i:t27. 

to  Viborg,  1336. 

Aarup,  1345. 

Aasheim,  1309. 

Abano,  ^i)7. 

Abbeville,  293. 

Abbey  Craig,  142. 

Abbey  of  Konigsfold,  1078. 

Abbotsford,  ico. 

Aberdeen,  135. 

Abei-feldy,  147. 

Aberfoyle,  142. 

Abergavenny.  888. 

Aborgddie,  137. 

Abergele,  248. 

Aberystwith,  280. 

to   Caermarthen,  Pembroke,   Tenby, 

Swansea,  Cardiff,  and  Newport,  279. 

Abo,  1484. 

Aboo  Strobe!,  944. 

Aboo  Sir,  944. 

Aboyne,  137. 

Abrantes,  1279. 

Abu  G;uish,956. 

Abydo.-s  Ruins  of,  938. 

Aclienktrch,  1175. 

Acbensee,  1175. 

A(  hciiwald,  1176. 

Acbselmannstein,  1177. 

Aci  Kealc,  DO.'.. 

Acquabunua,  1173. 

Acre,  or  Akka,  980. 

Adaro.  Of>. 

Adelsberg,  731,751. 

Cave  of,  731. 

Route  from  Paris,  34. 

Ailvicc  to  Travellers, Introduction,  xiii  et  ««•</. 

JSijina,  Island  of,  995. 

Alien.  419. 

Agents.  Diplomatic  and  Consular,  xxi-xxiv. 

A^^crshuns,  Castle  of,  1361. 

Air.utM-siind,  1332. 

Aghada,  50. 
1 


Ajjnesberg,  1433. 

Agram,  739 ;  Agre,  1360. 

Airiiilur  de  Campos,  1200. 

Aibling,  1145. 

Aigle,  1111. 

Aigle-les-Bains:  Route  from  Paris,  34. 

Aiguebelle,  477,  744. 

Aiguilles  de  Vareus,  1046. 

Aiguilles  du  Gouter,  1046. 

Ailsa  Craig,  128. 

Ain  Mousa,  Desert  of  Suez,  945. 

Airolo,  1104. 

Aix.  469. 

Aix-la-Chnpelle,  585. 

to  Paris,  587. 

Route  from  Paris,  34. 


Aix-les-l$:\ins,  47t>,  744. 

Route  from  Paris,  34. 


Akersrass  Locks,  1462. 
Ala,  1156. 

Aland  Islands,  the,  1484. 
Alas,  455. 

to  Nimes,  453. 


Alassio,  743. 

Alatri,  871. 

Albacete,  1258. 

Albnek,  1335. 

Albano,  868. 

Albany,  1556. 

Albenga,  743. 

Albeuve,  1108. 

Albula,  Pass  of,  1136. 

Alcacoras,  1289. 

Alcala  de  Henares,  1275. 

Alcazar  de  San  Juan,  1230. 

Alceda,  1200. 

Alcoy,  1263. 

Alencon,399. 

Alessandria,  797. 

Alexundretta,  ML 

Alexandria,  Egypt,  919. 

to  Cairo,  921. 

—  Route  from  London,  29;  from  Paris,  34. 
Italy,  797. 


Algeciras,  1242. 
Algeria,  473. 

Algiers,  boundaries  of,  steamers  to  the,  47S. 
Route  from  Paris,  34. 


Alhama  de  Aragon,  1274. 
Alicante,  1259. 
Alkmaar,  534  3-H. 
Allariz,  1205. 
Allernpbnnker,  1330. 
Allinge,  1347. 
j  Almaden,1277. 
Almagro,  1277. 
Almansn,  i-.'.v.t. 
Almcirim,  1279. 
Almerla,  1257. 


INDEX. 


Almindingeu,  1346. 
Alpnach,  10S6. 
Alsten,  Island  of,  1380. 
Altaba,  Falls  of,  1196. 
Alt-Buda,  near  Pesth,  736. 
Alteu,  1390. 
Alien  Fjord,  the,  1384. 
Altenburg,  629. 
Alteeula,  Island  of,  1387. 
Altorf,  1103. 

Alveneu,  Baths  of,  1136. 
Alverstromnien,  1416. 
Al  vesta,  1440, 1472. 
Amager,  Island  of,  1298. 
Amiil,  141)9. 
Amalfl,  SS3. 
Amalienborg,  1298. 
Amathonte,  9S13-5. 
Amathiis,  Kuius  of,  981  4-5. 
Amble,  1415. 
Amberien,  744. 
Ambleside,  254. 
Amboise,  403. 
Ambras,  Castle  of,  1145. 
Amden,  1118. 
Amersfoort,  534  4-8. 
Amesbnry,  283. 
Amiens,  298. 

Route  from  Paris,  34. 

Amphion-les-Bains,  1045.          ., 
Amphissa,  or  Salona,999. 
Amsteg,  1103. 
Amsterdam,  534. 

to  Cologne,  via  Utrecht  and  Am  hem, 

534  5-8. 

Route  from  London,  29;  from  Paris,  34. 


Anadouli-Hissar  (Castle  of  Asia),9S9. 
Anadonli-Kavak,  988. 
Anclam,  605. 
Ancoua,  822. 

to  Alexandria,  via  Brindisi,  528. 

to  Brindisi,  823. 

to  Genoa,  823. 

to  Naples,  874. 

• to  Smyrna,  via  Brindisi,  Corfu,  and 

Syra,  823. 

to  Trieste,  via  Venice,  823. 


to  Trieste,  823. 

Route  from  Paris,  34. 

An  deer,  746. 
Andermatt,  1104. 
Andermatten,  1115. 
Anderuach,  682. 
Andreasberg,  592. 
Anrtritsena,  1001. 
Andujar,  1231. 
Angers,  404. 
Angouleme,  410. 
Aunamoe,  76. 
Annan,  1C9. 
Annweiler,  675. 
Anteqnera,  1250. 
Antibes,  742. 
Antrim,  94. 
Antwerp,  513. 

to  Rotterdam,  515,  527. 

Ronte  from  London,  29 ;  from  Paris,  34. 

Aosta,  797, 1052. 

to  St.  Bernard,  797. 

Apennines,  the,  823. 
Appeldoorn,  534  7-8. 
Appenzell,  Canton  of,  1123. 
Aquila,874. 


Arachova,  999. 
Arnnjuez,  1230. 
Arbedo,  1105. 
Arboga,  1476. 
Arbrnath,  m. 
Arcachon,  416. 
Arco,  750, 1156. 
Arco  Felice,  890. 
Ardetz,  llL'6. 
Ardimon,  9S1  4-5. 
Ardlin,  143. 
Ardmore,  56. 
Ardrishaig,  117. 
Ardtoruish  Castlt,  119. 
Arendal,1418. 
Arevalo,  1210. 
Arezzo,  839. 
Argeles,432. 
Argentiere,  1054. 
Argos,  996. 
Arklow,  74. 
Aries,  469. 

Route  from  Paris 


Arloii,  518. 
Armagh,  91. 
Arnaout-Keni,  987. 
Arnhem.5346-8. 
Arona,  746,791,797. 

to  Genoa,  797  ;  t.>  Milan,  746,  791. 

from  Paris,  via  Dijon,  34. 


Arran,  Island  of,  116. 

Arras.  498. 

Arrizafa,  1232. 

Arstad,  1381. 

Artenay,  402. 

Arth,  or  Art,  1096. 

Arvika,  1468. 

Asaa,  1330. 

Aschlerbnch,  1168. 

Asiatic  shore,  the,  988. 

Ask,  1427. 

Askeaton,  64. 

Asker,  1405. 

Assen,  534  4-8. 

Assens,  1345. 

Assioot,  or  Sioot,  937. 

Assisi,  840. 

Assouan,  942. 

A8torgn,1203. 

Ateca,  1274. 

Ateste,  807. 

Athenry.  S3. 

Athens":  History,  Hotels,  Palace,  993;  Acrop- 
olis, Temple  of  Victory,  Parthenon,  994  : 
Erechtheinm,  Areopagus,  the  Pnyx,  Tower 
of  the  Winds,  Lantern  of  Demosthenes, 
Arch  of  Hadrian,  Temple  of  Jupiter  Olym- 
pus, 995:  Theatre  of  Bacchus,  Temple  of 
Theseus,  Mount  Lycabettus,  Mount  Pentel- 
icus,  Excursion  to  Marathon,  995. 

Athens :  Route  from  London,  29 :  from  Paris, 
34. 

to  Corinth,  995. 

to  Missolonghi,  997. 

to  Patras,  Iff 


Athens,  United  States,  1555. 
Athlone,  83. 
A  tii  a,  1369. 
Atteras,  1473. 
Atzwang,  749, 1163. 
Aubonne,  1039. 
Auch,  144,  446. 
Anchinleck,  167. 


INDEX. 


Augsbnrg:  Hotels,  Bishop's  Palace,  Allge- 
ineiue  Zeitnng,  003;  Cathedra),  Castle  of 
Hohen8chwangan,663,  664. 

Augsburg  to  Ulra,  064. 

Route  from  Paris,  34. 

Auma,  1370. 

Anne,  1481. 

Anns  i  Opdul,  1396. 

Aunede,  hamlet  "f,  1343. 

Auray,  4M. 

Anrland,  1417. 

Anssiir,  723. 

Atutberg  i  Remnebo,  1396. 

Ansterlitz,  720. 

Australia,  routes  to,  l.'>74. 

Austrian  Empire,  the,  704-740. 

Avebury,  268. 

Aveiro,  1290. 

Avenza,  SU9. 

Avezzano,  874. 

Aviguon,  468. 

to  Vauclnse,  469. 

Route  from  Paris,  34. 

Avila,  1210. 

Avis,  1166. 

Avranches,  395. 

Ay,  490. 

Ayr,  127. 

B. 
Baalbec,  977,  97S. 

to  Beymm,  !>7S. 

to  the  Cedars,  979. 

Bnbelsberg,  576. 

Bacharach,  6-^. 

Badajos,  1278. 

Baden,  Austria  :  Ronte  from  Paris,  34. 

Switzerland:  Route  from  I'ari>,  :!4. 

Baths  of,  Switzerland,  716. 

Baden-Baden,  099. 

from  Heidelberg,  i">9'.>. 

Route  from  Paris,  34. 

Badstuen,  1324. 
Baeverelvdnl,  1422. 
Baeza,  1231. 
Baffn,  981  3-5. 
Bagdtche-Keni,  988. 
Bauenalstown.  73. 
Bagni'res  de  Bisjorre,  429. 

Route  from  Paris,  34. 

Bagneres  de  Luchou :  Route  from  Paris,  35. 

Baholm,  1415. 

Baise,  Bay  of,  890. 

Bailen,  1231. 

Bak,  1431. 

Baktchissarai,  1540. 

to  Simi>heropol,  1541. 

Balaklava,  1539. 
Bald  Mountain,  1176. 
Ballater,  137. 
Ballatrich,137. 
Bttllenstedr,  r.92. 
Ballerup,  1344. 
Ballinamona,  55. 
Ballinasloe,  S3. 
Ballinrobe,  86. 
Ballybay,  94. 
Ballyhale,71. 
Ballyshannon,  88. 
Balmoral,  1ST. 
BkUa,1580. 
BalUi-Lininn,  988. 
Baltimore,  1576. 


Bam  berg,  642. 

Route  from  Parlj,  35. 


Bauchory,  136. 

Banclaks"  Vnnd,  lake,  1426. 

Bandholm,  1343. 

Bandon,  53. 

Banff,  135. 

Baiiiror— Menai  Bridge,  249. 

H.uiifis,  or  Caesarea  Pnilippi,  975. 

Bankers, Reliable,  Introduction,  xv. 

Bannockburn,  139, 176. 

Bautry,  54. 

Barcelona,  1266. 

Ronte  from  London, 29 ;  from  Paris,  35. 

Bareges,  437. 

Barenboden,  or  "Bears'  Domain,"  1162. 

Bari,  824,  ^'.'4. 

Barkald.  1370. 

Bar-le-Dnc,  490. 

Barletta,  824. 

Barmonth,  279. 

Barnstaple,  285. 

Barweis,  1166. 

Basle,  673, 1069. 

Routes  from,  1070. 

Ronte  from  London, 29 ;  from  Paris,  35. 


Basodino,  the,  1115. 
Bass  Rock,  164. 
Basserthwaite  Lake,  258. 
Bath,  268. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 


Bathsof  Oblades,  1160. 

of  Pfaffers,  1118. 

of  St.  Gervais,  1046. 

of  Saxe,  1052. 

of  Schalders,  115.'. 

ofVahrn,  115-2. 

Battaglia,S07. 
Battle,  227. 
Bantasteen,  1367. 
Bavaria,  648. 
Baveno,  Italy,  791. 

Switzerland,  1106. 

Bayenx,  394. 
Bayfleld,  1568. 
Bayonne,  417. 

Route  from  Puns,  35. 


Baza,  1257. 
Bazeilles,  496. 
Beauly,  129. 
Beanne,  467. 
Bebek,  987. 
Beckenried.llOl. 
Bedford,  234. 
Beigh,  64. 
Belalcazar,  1278. 
Belfast,  92. 

to  Dublin,  91. 

to  Glasgow,  London,  and   Liverpool, 


100. 


Route  from  London,  29. 
Ronte  from  Paris,  35. 


Bel  fort,  480. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 


Belgirate,  746, 991. 
Belgium,  501-523. 
Belgrad,  604. 
Belgrade,  737. 
Bellagio,  789. 
Bellalp,  the,  1114. 
Bellano,  7^.>. 
Rellejrnrde,  1029. 
Bellinzona,  747, 1101, 1106. 


INDEX. 


Bellpnig,  IfTl. 

Bellnno,  784, 1173. 

Belmez,  1232. 

Benavente,  1208. 

Benevento,  874. 

BengBtfon,  H35. 

Benicnrlo,  1264. 

Beni-Hassan,  Tombs  of,  936. 

Heiiisooef,  935. 

Berard.1055. 

Berg,  1465. 

Berg  Isel,  1150. 

Bergamo,  779. 

to  Lecco  on  Lake  Como,  lSf 

Berge  i  Roldal,  1409. 

Bergen,  Sweden,  1412. 

Germany,  601. 

Bergen-op-Zoom,  527. 

Berfan.1186, 

Beria  Vergi,  Mines  of,  1258. 

Berlin,  561-573  ;  Hotel,  Unter  deu  Linden, 
Statue  of  Frederick  the  Great,  New  Stadt, 
561;  Sights  of,  including  Galleries,  Muse- 
ums, etc.,  562-568:  University,  Library,  Pal- 
aces, etc.,  560  :  Cathedrals,  Churches,  Stai- 
nes,  etc.,  570, 571 ;  Bankers  and  Tradesmen, 
572 ;  Excursions,  573. 

Berlin  to  Charlottenbnrg,  573. 

Route  from  London,  '29 ;  from  Paris,  35. 

to  Potsdam  and  Sans  Souci,  573. 

to  Hamburg,  517, 595. 

to  Wittenberg,  576. 

to  Hanover,  577. 

to  Paris,  576.  5S7. 

to  Bremen,  601. 

to  Danzig,  603,  606. 

to  Tilsit,  608. 

to  Leipzig,  615. 

tol)usseldorf,617. 

to  Breslan,  629. 

to  Dresden,  632. 

Bernardino  Route,  the,  747. 

Bernay,  392. 

Berne,'  1072. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 

Routes  from,  1073. 

Bernina,1127. 

Berwick-npon-Tweed,  166,  239. 

Besaker,  1379. 

Besancon,  492. 

Bethel,  Ruins  of,  972. 

Bethlehem,  967. 

—  Route  from  Paris,  35. 
Beverwijk,  5342-8. 

Hex,  1111. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 

Beyeheville.416. 
B.-y-Kos,  9S'.». 
Beyront,  97!l,  982. 

—  to  Constantinople,  9S1. 

—  Route  from  Paris,  35. 
Briers,  446. 

Biarritz,  418. 

—  Route  from  Paris,  35. 
Biasoa,  1105. 

Biella,  792. 
Bienne,  106S. 
Bilbao,  1196. 
Billesholm,  1472. 
Bllllngsfors,  1435. 
Bingen  on  the  Rhine,  690. 

—  Route  from  Paris,  35. 
Birkeude,  1314. 


Birkenhead,246. 
Birmingham,  245. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 


Bissenhofeu  to  Augsburg,  1167. 

Bjerjets  Kro,  1333. 

Bjerkaker,  1396. 

Bjernede,  1314. 

Bjiiberg,  1404. 

Bjiirgen,  1372. 

Blaaflaten,  1402. 

Blair-Athol,  132. 

Blanca,  1258. 

Blankeuburg,  592. 

Blarney,  51. 

Blaye,  415. 

Blea  Tarn,  256. 

Bleibere:,  1181. 

Blenheim,  243. 

Blois,  403. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 

to  Chateau  de  Valencay,  40.'!. 

to  Chateau  de  Chaumout,  403 

Bloomiugdale,  1502. 
Bludenz,  1165. 
Blum, 'in,  1153. 
Bobadilla,  1249. 
Bodio,  1105. 
Bodo,  1377, 1379,1381. 
Boll  ad  ore,  1163. 
Bollar,  1326. 
Bolmen,  Lake,  1440. 
Bologna,  815. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 

to  Ancona,  818. 

to  Brindisi,  818. 

to  Florence,  818. 

to  Pistoia,  818. 


Bolstndoren  i  Vos,  1412, 

Boltigen,  1109. 

Bolton's  Limding,  1557. 

Bomnrsunrl,  14S4. 

Bombay:  Route  from  London,  29;  from  Par- 

is,  35. 
Bon  n,680. 

Route  from  Paris,  36.  , 


Bonneville,  1046. 
Boppard,  687. 

Boras,  1459. 
Borcette,  586. 

Bordeaux:  Commerce, 412 ;  Wine-cellars  ai.d 
Wine,  413. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 

Various  Routes  from,  410. 


Bordlghera, 

Boren  Lake,  1465. 
Borgbetto,  841. 

Borgholm,  U*>. 
lionro  San  Donino,  813. 
Borknp,  1326. 
Bormio,  Baths  of,  1163. 

Route  from  Paris,  ;ir>. 


Bornholm,  Island  of,  l.'Ui;. 
Borringe,  1470. 
Borromean  Islands,  790. 
Bosca,  1173. 
Bosekop,  1390. 
Boston,  England,  2S8. 

United  States,  1561. 

Bothwell  Castle,  112. 
Botzen,1153, 1168. 
Boulogne  (sur  Mer),296. 

Route  from  London,! 


35. 


from  Paris, 


INDEX. 


Bonrboule,  462. 

Bourg,  414,  470. 

Hour;:  St.  Maurice.  1138.     . 

Bonrgw,  448. 

Bouveret,  1044. 

Bovernier,  1050. 

Bowness  •_':>:{. 

Boxtel,  534  5-8. 

Boyle,  7'.>. 

Boyne,  the  River.  :>_'. 

Braagerland,  1317. 

Brad  ford,  264. 

Bradford-on-Avon,  288. 

Brneniar.  liis. 

Braendhangen  i  Dovre,  i:;:  5. 

Bragerii,  140B. 

Bra  in  mi  11  ge,  1338. 

Brandenburg,  587. 

Branneuburg,  1145. 

Bran  tielas,  1203. 

Brauzall,  1155. 

Bra-.ibach,  68T. 

Braunau,  727. 

Bray.  TO. 

Brechim,  ISO. 

Brecon,  276. 

Bred,  1345. 

Breda,  :,-^. 

Bredevangen  i  Sels,  1394. 

Bregentved,  1341. 

Bregenz,  1164, 1167, 1169, 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 

Breistf>len,1404. 
Bremen,  601. 

—  Route  from  Paris.. "5. 
Brennbiichl,  1159. 
Brenner,  1151. 
Brennerbad,  1151. 
Brenner  Pass,  the,  749,  lir>0. 
Breno,  ^05. 

Brescia,  777,  804. 

to  Pavia,  S04. 

to  Tirano,  805. 

Breslau,609. 

to  Cracow,  610. 

Bressay  Island,  134S. 
Brest,  400. 

—  Route  from  Paris,  35. 
Breuil,  1054. 

Br<?vent,  the,  1050. 
Bridge  of  Allan,  142. 
Brieg,  745, 1064. 
Brief,  527. 
Brienz,  1084. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 

Brighton,  -.'I'.). 

Route  from  Paris.  35. 

Brimsliif,  1440. 
Brindisi,  v.-4. 

from  Venice,  "CO. 

to  Alexandria,  824. 

• to  Greece.  *-J4. 

. to  Venice  and  Triejte,  824. 

to  Genoa,  SLU. 

to  Otranto.  *2l. 

• Route  from  London,  29;  from  Paris, 

35. 
Bristol,  268. 

—  to  Chepstow,  Monmonth,  Hereford, 
Lndlow,  Shrewsbury,  and  Chester,  '27'2. 

to  Gloucester,  Cheltenham,  Great  Mal- 

ven.and  Worcester,  271. 
British  America,  1557-1559, 1564-1567. 


Brittany,  397. 
Brixen,  749, 1132, 1179. 
BrixleL'L',  1145. 
Bniadlord,  149. 
Broek,  534  2-8. 
Brocken,  592. 
Brodenbnch, 
Brodick,lM. 
Broek,  532. 
Brohl,  6S2. 
Brouiisaud,  1380. 
Brooklyn.  1551. 
Bro..t,  1332. 
Brothiiusi,  1109. 
Bruck,  750, 1171. 
Bruges,  520. 

to  Oeteud,  521. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 


Bragg,  1078. 

Brun;ui,1182. 

Bruneckeu,  1180. 

Bra  nig  Pass,  the,  1085. 

Brunn,  719. 

Briinneii,  1102. 

Bi-uuswii'k,  the  City  of,  589. 

to  Magdeburg,  590. 

—  the  Duchy  of,  588. 

Route  from  London,  29;  from  Paris,  35. 


Brusio,  1128. 
Brussels,  505-511. 

to  Luxembourg,  517. 

Waterloo,  511. 

to  Calais,  522. 

to  Paris,  623. 

Route  from  London,  29;  from  Paris,  35. 

Brnton,  290. 

Bryn,  1367. 

Bucharest :  Routes  from  Paris,  35. 

Buchau,1175. 

Buchs,1171. 

Buda,  near  Pesth,735. 

Buffalo,  1564. 

Builth,  27ii. 

Bnlbjerg  Cliff,  1332. 

Bulle,  1108. 

Bandoran.  89. 

Bnrgeis,  1161. 

Burgos,  1197. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 

Burmindy  Wines,  45S. 
Buriitisland,  157. 
Bury  St.  Edmund's,  283. 
Busdongo,  1202. 
Bush-mills,  98. 
Buttevant,  62. 
Buxton,  247. 
Bnynk-Dere,  988. 
Bygdin  Lake,  1423. 
Bygholm  Veile,  1333. 
Byrhe  i  Nordre  Fron,  1394. 
Bystr.im,  1458. 

C. 

Cabourg,  394. 
Cadenabbia,  791,  1107. 
Cadenazzo,  747. 
Cadiz,  1242. 

Route  from  Paris.  35. 


Caen,  393. 

to  Havre,  394. 

to  Cherbourg,  394. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 


Caermarthen,  277. 
Caernarvon,  279. 


INDEX. 


Csesarea,  980. 

Cnmrea  Philippi,  972. 

Cabir,  66. 

Cahors,  445. 

Cairo:  Hotels,  921 ;  Citadel,  Massacre  of  ihe 
Mamelukes,  923;  Mosques,  923;  Palaces, 
Baths.  Festival,  924  ;  Heliopolis,  Shoobra, 
925;  Old  Cairo,  926;  Pyramids,  920-930; 
Sphinx,  928;  Temple  of  Serapis.  930. 

Cairo  to  Tor,  via  Suez,  946. 

to  Sinai,  940. 

to  Jerusalem,  via  El  Arish,  950. 

Route  from  Paris,  35. 

Calais,  296. 

Route  from  England,  29,  1572 ;  from 

Paris,  36. 

Calaudaberg,  1119. 

Calatayud,  1274. 

Calaveras  big  trees,  the,  1571, 1572. 

Calcutta:  Route  from  London, 29;  from  Par- 
is, 36. 

Caldwell,  1557. 

Caldwell's  Landing,  1553. 

Caledou,  95. 

Caledonian  Canal,  125. 

California,  1571 ;  routes  from,  157-.'. 

Calhin,  72. 

Calhuider,  133. 

Calmar,  14S2. 

Cambrai,  497. 

Cambridge:  Colleges  of  the  University,  Fitz- 
william  Museum,  Observatory  and  Botan- 
ical Gardens,  Churches,  etc.,  232. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Campo  Dolcino,  747,  790. 
Campo  Formio,  733. 
Canada,  1557-1559,  1564-1567. 
Canal  de  Conde,523. 
Caual  of  Arsiuoe,  945. 
Cannes,  474. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Cannstadt,  Mineral  Baths,  666. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Cantara,  981  3-6. 

Canterbury,  229. 

Cautine  de  Proz,  1056. 

Cape  of  Good  Hope :  Route  from  London,  29. 

Cape  Parthenike,  1539. 

Capernaum,  975. 

Capo  di  Ponte,  1173. 

Cappoquin,  57. 

Capri,  882. 

Capua,  872. 

Capnchiii  Convent,  1149, 1160. 

Carcassone,  422. 

Cardiff,  274. 

Carentau,396. 

Carlisle,  252. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Carlow,  73. 
Carlsbad,  639. 

to  Vienna,  640. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Carlsborg,  1460. 
Carlscrona,  1482. 
Carlshamn,  1482. 
Carlsrnhe,  700. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Carlstad,  1469. 
Carmagnola,  796; 
Cannon*,  1232. 
Carpi,  si  17. 
Cajrickfergus,  94. 


Carrick-on-Shannou,  88. 
Carrick-oo-Sulr,  t;c>. 

Carriijadrohid,  54.  . 

Carril,  12i'5. 

Cars,  Sleeping,  for  Travelers,  xx. 

Carstairs,  H'.'.t. 

Cartagena,  1258. 

Casa  Branca,  1288. 

Casablanca,  1248. 

Casaccia,  1129. 

Caserta,  872. 

Cashel,67. 

Cassel,  618. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 


Castalian  Fountain,  999. 

Castasegua,  ll-.".i. 

Castebruth,  1153. 

Castejon,  1276. 

Castel  Bolognesc  to  Ravenna,  819. 

Pietro,  Bologna,  818. 

Castelbell,  1167. 

Castellon,  1264. 

Castillejo,  1230. 

Castle  of  Gripshnlm,  1483. 

Castlebar,  85. 

Castle-Blayney,  94. 

Castle-Douglas,  174. 

Castledermot,  74. 

Castlereagh  85          Ciwtlelon,  241. 

Castncum,  5:!4  2-S. 

Ca8tnern,127S. 

Cataifia,  905. 

Cataracts  of  Egypt,  943. 

Caterham,  227. 

Catorraja,  1260. 

Catskill,  1555. 

Catskill  Mountains,  the,  1554. 

Cauterets,  433-435. 

Cavan,  90. 

Cave  Hill,  93. 

Cefalu,  902. 

Celle,  640. 

Ceneda,  1173. 

Cerda,  902. 

Certaldo,  843. 

Cervera,  1271. 

Cesena,  821. 

Cette,  44G. 

Ronte  from  Paris,  36. 


Chablis.  458. 
Chseronea,  1000. 
Chalcis,  1000. 
Chalon-sur-Saone,  467. 

Ronte  from  Paris,  36. 


Chalons-sur-Marue,  490. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 


Chambery,  477. 
Chambreiien,  1115. 
Cbamouuix,  1046. 

Route  from  London,  29  ;  from  Paris,  36. 


Champagne  Wines,  481-489. 
Champtoce,  406. 
Chantilly,  299. 
Chareuton,  457,  741. 
Charleroi,  497. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Charleston,  1578. 
Charleville,  Ireland,  63. 
France,  495. 


Charlottenbur«r,  1403. 
Charlottenlund,  1318. 
Chartres,  :(99. 
Chateau  Chaumont,  403. 


INDEX. 


Chfitean  Che"nanceau,404. 

d'Oex,  1110. 

de  Ponsas,  467. 

de  Praugius,  1038. 

Ennseck,  726. 

—     MUILTMUX,  415. 

of  Steen,612. 

Thierry,  481. 

rhiituauroiix.  444. 

Chati'Miuvoii,  450. 

C'ti:itellerault,  407. 

Chatham,  888. 

Chatillon,  1064. 

Chatsworth,  247. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Chnumont,  479,  1068. 

Cheitau  Akindisi  (Satan's  Curreut),  988. 

Chelmsford,  230. 

Cheltenham,  273. 

Chemnitz.  047. 

Chepstow,  275. 

Cherbourg,  397. 

Route  from  Paris.  36. 

Chermontane,  1067. 

Chersonesns,  1638. 

Chester,  246. 

Eaton  Hall,  246. 

Chexbres,  1070. 

Chiamut,  1132. 

Chiavari,  809. 

Chiavenna,  747,  790. 

Chicago,  1567. 

Chillou.  Castle  of.  1043. 

China,  Routes  to,  1574. 

Chinchilla,  1258. 

Chippis,  Valley  of,  1059. 

ChiselhursJ,  226. 

Chiusi,  845. 

Choisy-le-Roy,402. 

Christiania:  Hotels,  Castle  of  Aggershuns, 
1360;  Trefoldigheds-kirki?,  Palacei  Museum 
of  Northern  Antiquities,  University,  Na- 
tional Gallery  of  Paintings,  Theatre,  Can- 
Dies,  Oscar's"  Hall,  Frogner  -  Aasen,  1362; 
Environs  of,  1365. 

Christiania  to  Bergen,  1350,  1367, 1399. 

to  Odnaes,  1350. 

to  Trondhjem,  1350. 

to  Molde,  1350, 1367, 1307. 

to  Stockholm,  1351. 

—  Route  from  London,  29 ;  from  Paris,  36. 

ChristiauSitnd.  TM6,  1418. 

Christiiuisborg,  1301. 

Christianshavn,  1298. 

Christianssaede,  Manor  <>f.  1343. 

Christiaustad,  1439. 

Christiaiisuud,  1429. 

Christinehamn,  1469. 

Chur,  1169, 1171. 

Chnrbnrg.  Castle  of,  11  til. 

Churwalden.  760. 

Cilli,750. 

Cincinnati,  1569. 

Ciney,517. 

Citrea,  981  3-5. 

Cilta  Vecchia.  ;>14. 

Ciudad  Real.  1-277. 

Ciudad  Rodrigo,  1209. 

Civita  Vecchiii.  -*4-_'. 

to  Rome,  843. 

Civray,  410. 

Cladich,  147. 

Clapham,  263. 


Clare-Gal  way.  ^7. 
ClareiiK,  745/1042. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 


Clausholm,  1H2S. 
Clavadel,  Baths  of,  1137. 
Clermont  Ferratid,  451. 
Clifden.84. 
C]iff..ny,S9. 
Clifton,  269. 
Cloggriitz,  750. 
Clonmacuoise,  80. 
Clonmel,  66. 
Cloyne,  50. 
Cluses,  1046. 
Coblentz,  6S3. 

Route  from  Paris,  3«. 

Cochem,  685. 

Cockennouth,  260. 

Cognac,  410. 

Cogoletto,  443. 

Cohoes,  1556. 

Coimbra,  1290. 

Coins,  Tables  of,  535,  1003,  1580. 

Coire,  1119. 

to  Colico  (and  Milan),  over  the  Splfl- 

geu,  746. 

to  Magadiuo,  over  the  Bernardino,  747. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Colchester,  231. 
Col  de  Balme,  1054. 
Bonhomme,  1052. 

Cheville,  1057. 

Fenetre,  1057. 

Torrent,  1059. 

la  Dent  de  Jaman,  1108. 

la  Forclaz,  1046. 


Col  des  Montets,  1054. 
Cold  Spring,  1554. 
Coldstream,  162. 
Coleraine,  94,  9S. 
Colfax,  1571. 
Colico,  747,  790, 1164. 

to  Como,  747. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 


Collonges  Station,  1030. 
Col  mar,  C79. 
Cologne,  582. 

—  to  Frankfort,  Bonn,  Coblentz,  585. 

—  to  Mainz,  Aix-la-Chapelle,  Paris.  585. 
Route  from  London,  29;  from  Paris, 


36. 

Colombes,  3S6. 
Como,  Lake  of,  787. 

to  Lake  Maggiore,  790. 

Route  from  London,  29;  from  Paris,  36. 

Comptegne,  496. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 


Comrie,  145. 

Comstock  Lode,  1570. 

Concise,  1067. 

Conegliano,  1173. 

Coney  Island  Excursions,  1548. 

Cong,  86. 

Coniston,  256. 

Constance,  673. 

Route  from  London,  30 ;  from  Paris,  36. 

Constantinople:  Hotels,  Seraglio,  snblimc 
Porte,  984;  Bosphonts,  Mosques  of  St.  So- 
phia, Suleiman.  Sultan  Achnu-d.  Muham- 
med  II.,  Hippodrome,  985;  Obelisk  of  The- 
odosius,  the  Burned  Pillar,  Aqueduct.  Ba- 
zars, Cemeteries.  986;  CaTqnes,  Valet  de 
Place,  the  Dogs,  Excursions,  98T. 


8 


INDEX. 


Constantinople,  Steamers  from,  989. 

to  Odessa,  989. 

to  Vieuna,  989. 

to  the  Crimea,  989. 

to  Genoa,  990. 

Route  from  London,  30 ;  from  Paris,  36. 

Consular  and  Diplomatic  Agents,  xxi-xxiv. 

Contamines-sur-Arve,  1045. 

Con  they,  1058. 

Couvamore,  58. 

Convent  of  the  Capuchins,  1160. 

Convent  of  Sebeu,  1152. 

Conway,  249. 

Cook,  Son,  &  Jenkins's  Arrangements  for 
Travelers,  xxvii. 

Copenhagen:  Streets,  Carriages,  Amalien- 
borg,  1-297,  1298 ;  Rosenborg  Castle,  1299- 
1301 ;  Christiansborg,  Chambers  of  Parlia- 
ment, Palace  ofFrederiksborg,  1301;  Thor- 
waldsen's  Museum,  1302-1300 ;  Prindseus 
Palais,  Ethnographic  Museum,  Museum  of 
Northern  Antiquities,  1306-1309;  Cathedral 
and  Churches,  1309;  Arsenal,  Exchange, 
Royal  Library,  and  Theatres,  1310,1311;  Ex- 
cursions from,  1311, 1312. 

Copenhagen  to  Charlotteulnnd  and  Deer 
Park,  1318. 

to  Lyngby,  1320. 

to  Kallun'dborg,  1339. 

to  Kjoge,  1340. 

to  Faxe,  1343. 

to  Frederikssund,  1344. 

to  the  Island  of  Born  holm,  1346. 

to  the  Faroe  Islands,  134S. 

Route  from  London,  30 ;  from  Paris, 

36. 

Copper  Harbor,  1568. 

Coppet,  1038. 

Cordova,  1231,l-248. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Corinth,  99T. 

Cork,  50. 

to  London,  Liverpool,  and  Glasgow, 

100. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Cornigliano,  743. 

Cornwall  Landing,  1554. 

Coron,  1001. 

Corsoer,  1312, 1314. 

Cortina  d'Ampezzo,  1172. 

Cortona,  839. 

Cornna,1206. 

Corycian  Cave,  999. 

Cosenza,  892. 

Coslin,  604. 

Cossonay,  1067. 

C6te  d'Or,  458. 

Cotignola,  819. 

Courmayeur,  1052. 

Conrtrai,  499, 522. 

Coutances,  395. 

Contras,  412. 

Cove,  82. 

Coventry,  240. 

Cowes,  226. 

Route  from  Paris,  36. 

Cracow,  610. 

to  Warsaw,  612. 

to  Vienna,  614. 

—  Route  from  Paris,  36. 

C'iaii,'niillar  Castle,  171. 

Ci-atnont,  1052. 

C rat  hie,  1ST. 


Crato,  1279. 
Crecy,  '2i"~. 
Credo  Tunnel,  1030. 
Cremona.  --04. 
C'renznach,  O'.tl. 
Crewe,  '240. 
Crieff,  14S. 
Crimea,  the,  1536. 

from  Constantinople,  989. 


Criuan  Canal,  117. 
Cronstadt,  1519. 
Crow's  Nest,  1554. 
Croydon.-21'.i. 
Cueuca,  1229. 
Cueta,  1247. 
Cullera,  1-203. 
Culioile.il,  131. 
Cully,  1H41. 

Cnlnz  to  Geneva,  1029. 
Cnmse,  890. 

Cmnbray,  Islands  of,  115. 
C  un  en,  7!til. 
Ciishendun,  99. 
Cusiriu,  000. 

Cyprus,  Island  of,  9S1  1-5. 
—  Route  from  Paris,  36. 


D. 

Dabod,  944. 

Daglosen,  1476. 

Dasrmerselleu,  1(>77. 

Dalaas,  1165. 

Dalbeattie,  174. 

Dalkeirh,  158. 

Dais  Fjord,  the,  14-20. 

Dalsands  Canal,  the,  1435. 

Dalseidet  i  Hans.  141-2. 

Damascus:  Hotels,  Cook-shops.  Synagogues, 

Convents,  Rivers  Abana  and  Pharpar,'  970  ; 

the   Great   Mosque,  the    Castle,  St.  Paul's 

House,  Abd  el  Kader.  976. 
Damascus  to  Kaalbee.  '.'77. 

Route  from  London,  30  ;  from  Paris,  36. 


Danzig,  604. 

Route  from  London,  30:  from  Paris,  36. 


Dardanelles,  tin-.  988. 

Route  from  Paris,  37. 


Dargle,  the,  70. 
Darmstadt,  O'.Mi. 

to  Heidelberg,  697. 

Route  from  Paris.  37. 


Dartford,  217  2-8.    Dnrtmonth  o71 

Davlia,  IIHMI.  .itn, -.1. 

Davos  Plats  and  Dorfle,  1137. 

Dax,  417. 

Dead  Sea,  the,  969. 

Deepdene,  226  1-4. 

Deer  Park,  1318, 1458. 

Delft.  530. 

Delphi,  or  Castri,  999. 

Denbigh,  248. 

Dt'iiia,  1-263. 

Denmark,  1293-1349. 

Dent  d'Otich,  1044. 

Departures  from  London,  21 7 :  from  Paris.  07''. 

Deptford,  217  2-8.    D    .      „„, 

l)erryuane,S-2.          Derby,  2d4. 

Dervio,  7--.1. 

Derwentwater.  257. 

Desenzano,  777. 

Deserts  of  Suez  and  Arnbin,  945-051 

|ic--,iu.  617. 

Detmolcl,  594. 


Detroit,  1667. 

Dent/ 

Devenish  Island,  91. 

Devens  Suit  Mines,  1111. 

Do  venter.  r>:>,4  7-8. 

Hi  idire,  1103. 
l)i:iin»nd  Island,  1557. 
DledeahofeD.  4H3. 
Dieppe,  300,  389. 

Koute  from  London,  30;  from  Pr.rls,  37. 

Dijon,  468.     Route  from  Paris,  37. 

Dimmelsvik,  1420. 

Dinant,  517. 

Diiiirwnll,  l'2'.t. 

Diplomat!*'  and  Consular  Agents,  xxi-xxiv. 

entic,  1132. 
Dives. 

Divonne,  103S. 
njurtiarden,  145S. 
Dobh's  Ferry,  1553. 
Dol,  3%. 

•  Route  from  Paris,  37. 

Dolgelly,  144. 
Dollar,  140. 

Dulsach,  11-n. 
Dombaas,  13'.i5, 1399. 
Domo  d'Ossola,  74*'). 

Route  from  Paris.  :;7. 

Domremy,  4'.<1. 

Don  Alvaro.  l-'7v 

Don  Benito.  1-J7-. 

Don  Koderic,  Castle  of,  H'.i7. 

Donaustaf,  031. 

Doncaster. 

Donchery.  4%. 

Done? 

Dorchester,  286. 

Dordrecht,  or  Dort,  ,V-"v 

Dorkinu:, -'->7.  -^'.. 

Dornburn.  1165. 

Dortmund,  680. 

R>n!M5.    Douglas,  241. 

Dover.  •->.".>. 

Route  from  London,  30,  290 ;  from  Par- 
is, 37. 

Dpvre  Fjeld,  1305. 

Downpatrick.  '.'7. 

Dracheufels,  681. 

Dranimen.  140ft 

Draxholm,  Castle  of.  i:'.4n. 

Dresden  :  Hotels,  American  Club.  633  ;  Royal 
Palace,  634;  Picture-gallery  and  its  Gems, 
635:  the  Zwinzer,  Museum  of  Natural  His- 
tory, and  Military  Museum,  i;36;  Grand  Op- 
era-house, 636 :  Japanese  Palace  and  the 
Fr.'inenkirche,  636;  Manufactures,  Banker*, 
and  Tradesmen,  637,  <;:;-';  Excursions,  638. 

Dresden  to  Frankfort,  619. 

to  Carlsbad,  639. 

to  Schwar  zenbtirg,  646. 

Route  from  London,  30 ;  from  Paris,  37. 

•hytte,  1369. 

Driva,  Valley  of  the,  1396. 

Drivstuen  i  Opdal,  1396. 

Drobiik.  1417. 

Drogheda,  91. 

to  Belfast,  97. 

Dronniiiirslund,  Storskov,  1330. 

Drottnin-jholm,  Palace  of,  1483. 

Drnmimir,  -n. 

Drumlanrig  Castle,  167. 


Dryburgh  Abbey,  160. 

Duart  c'astle,  119. 

Dublin  :  Hotels,  6S  :  Castle,  Trinity  College, 
Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  St.  Patrict'a 
Cathedral,  Four  Courts,  6'.i ;  Ciujtom-hoase, 
Exchange,  Nelson's  Monument,  Galleries, 
Museum,  Phoenix  Park,  Zoological  Gar- 
dens, Uotanic  Gardens  at  Glasnevin,  Cem- 
etery, Irish  Poplins,  70;  Excursi*. 
Hill  of  Howth,  Kingstown,  71. 

Dublin  to  London,  Liverpool,  Glasgow,  and 
Bristol,  KKI. 

Route  from  London,  30;  from  Paris,  37. 


Dumbarton.  114. 
Dumfries,  168. 
Dunbar,  164. 
Dunblane,  14'2. 
Dundalk,  '.<•>. 
Dundee,  179. 
Dundreunan,  174. 
l)nndrum,96. 
Dunfermliue,  177. 
Dnnsarvan,  77. 
Duufceld,  132. 
Dunkirk,  4!»9. 

Route  from  Paris.  37. 


Dunmanway,  53. 
Dunnottar,  Castle  of,  180. 
Dunoou,  115. 
Dunrobin,  130. 
Dunseverick,  99. 
Dunstaffnage,  118. 
Dnnvegan  Castle,  129. 
Durham,  23a 
Diisseldorf,  5S1. 

to  Bremen,  614. 

Route  from  London,  36 ;  Paris,  3T. 


E. 

East,  The,  via  Suez  Canal :  from  London,  33. 
Eastbourne,  227  1-3. 
Eaux  Bon  nes,  441. 

Route  from  Paris,  3T. 

Eaux  Chandes.  44'2. 

Route  from  Paris,  37. 


Ebal,  Mount.  972. 

Ebelsberg,  726. 

Ebnat.  1133. 

Eboli,  893. 

Ecija.  1232. 

Edane,  1469. 

E'Dayr,  937. 

Eden  Hall,  258. 

Eddystone  Lisht-house,  271. 

Bdfoo,  941. 

Edinburtrli:  Excursions  in  the  vicinity  of, 
151:  The  Castle,  Scott's  Monument."  l.V-': 
National  Gallerv,  Royal  Institution,  UfL'i-- 
ter  House,  Calton  Hill  Monumei: 
Giles's  Cathedral,  153  :  the  University,  Par- 
liament Square,  llolyrood  Palace,  l.>4 ; 
Leith,  Excursions.  Arthur's  Seat,  Ho-pi- 
tals,  157  ;  Rosliu  Castle,  Dalkeith,  158. 

Edinbur-rh  to  St.  Andrews,  157, 178. 

Route  from  London,  30  ;  from  Paris,  37. 


Eegholm,  1332. 

EL'eri.Lake  of,  1136. 

E>ri:ischhor]i.the,  1114. 

Eirremont.  ViUn. 

Egypt,  016-444. 

— - —  Route  from  Paris,  37. 

Voyage  to  Upper,  930. 

Ehrenbreitsteiu,  683. 


10 


INDEX. 


Ehrenbnrg,  Castle  of,  116C. 
Ehrenfel8,6S9. 
Bide,  1410,  1421,  1431. 
Bidet,  13T2. 
Eidsbugarden,  1423. 
Eidsvofd,  1367. 
Eidvoldeverk,  136T. 
Eindhoven,  534  5-S. 
Einingevik,  1421. 
Einsiedelu,  1134. 
Eisenach,  623. 

-  to  Coburg,  624. 

-  Route  from  Paris,  3T. 
Eisleben,  617. 
Eivindvik,  1415. 
Ekersnnd,  1419. 
Ekonhorn,  1368. 

Eksjo,  1474. 

El  Arish,  951. 

El  Chanka,  950. 

El  Perrol,  1207. 

El  Koola,  941. 

Elaghinskoi,  Palace  at,  1518. 

Elberfeld,  594. 

Elbing,  607. 

Elche,  1259. 

Elephantine  Island,  942. 

Eleusis,  997. 

Elgin,  134. 

Elizavetirrad,  1535. 

Elm,  1131. 

Elsinore,  1321.    Routes  from,  1323 

Eltville,  695. 

Elverum,  136S. 

Ely,  232. 

Ernmaboda,  1473. 

Etninnns,  956. 

Emmerich,  534,  531. 

-  Route  from  Paris,  37. 
Empoli,  843. 

Kins,  696. 

-  to  Coblentz,  696. 

-  Route  from  Paris',  37. 
Engelberg,  1095. 
Enghien,  389. 

England  and  Wales,  183,290. 
Eukhnysen,  534  3-8. 
Eunis,  78. 
Enniscorthy,  74. 
Euniskillen,  90. 
Entlebnch,  1107. 
Entroneamento,  12S9. 
Epernay,  481. 

-  Route  from  Paris,  37. 
Epesses,  1041  . 

Ephesus,  9S1  4-5. 

-  Route  from  Paris,  87. 


Erbach,  6!>2,  697. 

Erfurt,  622. 

-  to  Goth  a,  823. 

--  Route  from  Paris,  37. 

Esbjerg,  1337. 

Escholzmatt,  1107. 

E^clavitud,  1205. 

E^curial,  the,  1223. 

Eski-Mouca,  9S1  3-5. 

Eskilstuna,  1483. 

Eslof,  1439. 

Esne,  941. 

Espailler,  453. 

Espiel,  1232. 


Essen,  581. 
Esslingen,  669. 
Estremoz,  1289. 
Etampes,  402. 
Etna,  Mount,  906. 
Eton,  242. 
Etroubles,  1053. 
Ettenheim,  673. 
Euboea,  Island  of,  1000. 
Enpatoria,  1536. 
Evauger  i  Vos,  1411. 
Evanton,  130. 
Evesham,  265. 
Evian-les-Bains,  1044. 
Evolenn,  1058. 
Evora,  1288. 
Evreux,  392. 

Route  from  Paris.  37. 


Exeter,  270. 
Exmouth,  270. 
Eyrs,  1167. 


F. 


Faaborg,  1345. 
Faeggeklit,  1333. 
Faeggesuud,  1333. 
Faemuud,  Lake,  1369. 
Faeuza,  820. 

to  Florence,  820. 


Fagerlund  i  Nordre  Aurdal,  1401. 

Fagernaes,  1322. 

Faido,  1105. 

Falaise,  399. 

Falkenbnrg,  Castle  of,  689. 

Falkirk,  149. 

Falkoping,  1459. 

Falkland,  177. 

Fall  of  Tiitschbach,  1095. 

Falls  of  Aar,  1085. 

of  Altaba,  1190. 

of  Alterheiligeu,  702. 

of  the  Clyde,  113. 

of  Fiskiim.  1389. 

of  Fressinone,  1065. 

of  Foyers,  125. 

of  Kaaterskill,  1555. 

of  Minnehaha,  lf><>9. 

of  the  Lednoch,  145. 

of  the  Mohawk,  15S6. 

of  Montmorenci,  1559. 

of  Muoniokosi,  1391. 

of  Niagara,  1564. 

of  Reichenbach,  1<K»2. 

-of  Rogie,  129. 

of  Sallenche,  1112, 

of  the  Schinadrib.-icli.  1089. 

of  Sefiuliitschiue,  IOIMI. 

of  St.  Anthony,  15«!9. 

of  Tosa,  1104. 

• of  Traun,  728. 

of  Trenton,  1557,  1564. 

of  Triberg,  672. 

of  Trollhatta,  1462. 

of  Uldefos,  14-29. 


Falrnouth,  272. 
Fnlsterbo,  1470. 
Falun,  1476, 1479. 
Famagtuu,  981  3-5, 
Fanuin,  822. 
Farayg,  943. 
Fai  leigh  Castle,  289. 
Past  Castle,  165. 
Faulhoru,  the,  1091. 


INDEX. 


11 


Faurbo,  1340. 

Faversham,  -2-29. 

Fax.;,  1H44. 

Fecamp,  :«»'2. 

Feio,  Island  of,  13i3. 

Feldkirch,  1165,  1171. 

Fend,  lis:i. 

Fermo,  823. 

Fermny.  ••>< 

Fenian  Nunez,  1248. 

Ferns,  74. 

Ktrnsteta,  Ruins  of,  1166. 

Ferrara,  807. 

—  to  Bologna,  S07. 

Feihard,  73. 

Fetsund,  1468. 

Fettan,  11-20. 

Feuchten,  U4S. 

Fez,  1247. 

Fideriser  Au,1136. 

Fieberbrnnn,  1176. 

Figueras,  1271. 

Finale  Marina,  743. 

Fischbach,  1145. 

Fischhorn,  Castle  of,  1171. 

Fishkill,  1554. 

Fiskum  Falls,  1389. 

Fitnne  Lath-.  T-'.i. 

Fjaerlands  Fjord,  the,  1417. 

Pjerri  trier.  1881. 

Fladmark  i  Gryten,  1397. 

Flagstad,  Inland  of,  13S2. 

Flannskjoldkro,1330. 

Fl<?gere,  1050. 

Fleimserthal,  1155. 

Flen,  1444. 

Flen-borg,  599,1317. 

Fleskedal,  1424. 

Flims,  1131. 

Flint.  . 

Flirsch,  1166. 

Flodden,  103. 

Floors  Castle,  161. 

Florence:  Hotels.  Arno,  826;  Bridges,  DHO- 
mo,  Campanile,  Statues,  Battisterio  di  San 
Giovanni,  S27:  Church  of  Santa  Croce.  ^-.'S  : 
Piazza  of  Santa  Croce,  La  Santissima  An- 
iinn/i:ita,Cappellii  di  San  Luca.  Piazza  dell' 
Annunziata,  Statue,  of  Ferdinand,  Fotiud- 
lin^  Hospital,  Convent  of  Carmine,  Church 
of  San  Lorenzo,  Sairrestia  Vecchia,  Sa- 
grestia  Nuova,  8-29 ;  Latirentiun  Library, 
Church  of  San  Marco,  Santa  Maria  Nove'l- 
la,  830:  Piazza  del  Gran'  Dnca,  Stanze  of 
David,  Michael  An-relo,  Savonarola,  Piazza 
Buonarotti,  Palazzo  Vecchio,  Loggia  diLan- 
zi,Ufflzi  Gallery,  S31.S3-2 ;  Tribune, Gems  of 
Antiquity,  Btrnscan  Museum,  Hall  of  Bn- 
roccio.  Hall  of  Xiobe,  Pitti  Palm 
Hall  of  Venus  Hall  of  Apollo,  Hall  of  Mars. 
Hall  of  Jupiter,  Hall  of  Saturn,  Hall  of  the 
Iliad,  S34;  Private  Library,  Boboli  Gardens, 
Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  Sltmeo  di  Storia 
Naturale  and  Specola,  Trihunu  Galileo,  S35 ; 
Ptetare-galtorle*,  Hiram  Powers.  Theatres, 
836;  Cas.-ine.  Palazzo  Riccardi,  Biblioteca 
Kiccardi,  Stores,  etc.,  937;  Zocchi  Emilio, 
s;7  ;  I'oiririo  Imperiale,  Fiesole,  Villa  Torri- 
giani.  >:!<. 

Florence  to  Rome,  838. 

to  Par; 

to  Rome,  via  Km  poll,  etc.,  *4H. 

Ronte  from  London,  30;  from  Paris, 37. 


Florida.  1579. 

Route  from  New  York,  1575. 


Fliiriien,  14-28. 
Flnela-Thal  and  Pass,  1137. 
Fluelen,  1103. 
Fochabers,  135. 
Foggia,  823. 
Fogstuen,  i;i'.»5. 
Fold  River,  the,  1370. 
Foligno,  841. 

Route  from  Paris,  37. 


Folkestone,  227  2-3. 
Fondi,  873. 
Fontainebleail,  380. 

Route  from  Paris,  37. 


Fonthill,  1553. 
Forbach,  676. 
Forde,  1430. 
Forde  Fjord,  1429. 
Forfar,  179. 
Forli,  821. 

to  Ravenna  and  Florence,  821. 


Formazza,  Valley  of,  1115. 
Formo  i  Throtten,  1394. 
Forres,  132. 
Forrest  Hill,  227. 
Fort  Augustus,  125. 

San  Marco,  1579. 

Snelling,  1569. 

Ticonderoga,  1557. 

Washington,  1553. 


Fortnu,  1422. 
Foseu,  the,  1379. 
Foslandsoseu,  1380. 
Fossedal,  1332. 
Fossegarden,  1394. 
Fossombrone,  845. 
Fountain  of  Elisha,  971. 
Fountain  of  Moses,  945. 
Foynes,  65. 

Fragensteiu,  Castle  of,  115S. 
France,  291-500. 
Frankfort,  625. 

to  Berlin,  641. 

to  Cassel,  625. 

to  Prague,  64:i. 

Frankfort-on-t  he-Main  :  Ronte  from  London. 

30 :  from  Paris,  37. 
Frankfort-on-the-Oder,  608. 
Franzenfeste,  1152. 
Franzensbad,  643. 
Franzenshiihe.  llii-2. 
Franenfeld.llOO. 
Fredeusborg  Palace,  1323. 
Fredericia.  1313. 

Fredei  icksburgh.  United  States,  1578. 
Frederiksborg  Castle,  1324. 
Frederikshorir.  Palnce  of,  1301. 
Frederikedal,  1321. 
Frederikshald,  1434, 1430. 
Frederikshavn.  ii;>9,  1334. 
Frederiksstad.  1434. 
Frcflerikssiind,  1325. 
Frederiksviirk,  1324. 
Freiberg,  646. 

Route  from  Paris,  87. 


Freiburg,  673. 

Route  from  London,  30;  from  Paris, 


Freienfeld,  1151. 

Kivjlis.  474.  74'2. 

French  Money,  Weights,  and  Measures,  293. 

Circula'r  Tickets.  3S6. 


12 


INDEX. 


Freshwater:  Route  from  Paris,  3T. 

Fressinone,  Falls  of,  1065. 

Fresvik,  1415. 

Fribourg,  1070. 

Friesach,  595. 

Frijsenborg,  132T. 

Friseuvold,  1328. 

Frohlichsburg,  Tower  of,  1161. 

Fronie,  289. 

Frouingeu,  1411,1415. 

Fruholm  Island,  1386. 

Frutigen,1075. 

Frydenluud,1400, 

Fngeu,1169. 

Fuglenaes,  Promontory  of,  1385V 

Fill  pines,  1183. 

Fur,  Island  of,  1333. 

Fureso,  Lake  of,  132%. 

Fnrness  Abbey,  260. 

Fiirstenberg,  Castle  of,  1161. 

Fussen,  1166. 

Fyeu,  Island  of,  1313. 

G, 

Gaard  BotuetrT38ft. 

.  Hoel,  1396. 

Novigeu,  1425x 

Gaeta,  873. 

Gaillou,  387. 

Gairloch,181. 

Gais,  1124. 

Galdhoppig,  the,  1422X. 

Galenstock,.the,  1094. 

Galixidi.  999. 

Gal  way ,  83. 

Gamla  Lftdose,  14ii2. 

GamlaPi>sala,1478. 

Gaudia,  1263. 

Gap,  470. 

Gardino,  T422. 

Garlid  i  Sognedal,  1396, 

Garnaes  i  Hans,  1412. 

Gatehonse,  175. 

Gau  el  Kebir,  938. 

Gauno,  Castle  of,  1341. 

Gavarnie,  436. 

Gaza,  951. 

IJebatsch,  Cinder  of,  1160. 

'  Jebel  Silsileh,  942. 

5efle,  1478. 

Geisberg,  675. 

Geilstein,  1172. 

Geiranger  Fjord,  the,  1430. 

Gelmerbach  Falls,  1093. 

Genera :  Hotels,  Carriages,  Porters,  Banker?, 
Steamers,  Bridges,  1031 ;  Cathedral  of  St. 
Pierre,  Mnsee  Roth,  Mnsee  Acadeniiqnp, 
1032:  Ronssean's  Honse,  Calvin's  Library, 
HStel  de  Ville,  Arsenal,  Model  of  Mont 
Blanc,  1033 :  Musee  Fol,  Botanical  Gardens, 
Genevese  Club,  English  Chnrch,  Manufact- 
ures, Environs,  Villas,  1034 ;  Ferney,  Excur- 
sions, 1035. 

Geneva,  Lake  of,  1036. 

to  Chamounix,  1045. 

Various  Routes  from,  1036. 

Route  from  London,  30 ;  from  Paris.  ?,~. 

Genoa :  Hotels,  History,  Harbor,  People,  7CO ; 
Corso,  Christopher  Columbus,  Monument. 
Discovery  of  Cuba,  Churches,  Cathedral  of 
San  Lorenzo,  Relics,  L'Annnnziata,  800  ;  Si. 
Ambrogio  di  Gesi>,  Santa  Maria  di  Carigna- 
no,  St.  Stephano  della  Porta,  San  Mallei), 


San  Siro,  Palaces,  Palazzo  Briguole,  Palazzo 
Pallaviciui,  Palazzo  Dorio  Torsi,  Palazzo 
Balbi,  Palazzo  Reale,  Palazzo  Doria,  801 ; 
Palazzo  della  Universita,  Palazzo  Dncale, 
Bank  of  St.  George,  Public  Institutions, 
Accademia  Ligustica  delle  Belle  Arii,  The- 
atres, Manufactures,  Cafes,  Silver  Filigi  ee- 
work,  Villa  Pallavicini,  802;  Railways, 
Steamers,  Diligences,  803. 

Genoa  to  Paris,  803. 

to  Milan,  803. 

to  Nice,  etc.,  803,  808. 

to  Pisa,  803. 

to  Florence,  via  Spezia,  SOS. 

Route  from  London,  30;  from  Paris,  37. 

Gerizim,  Mount,  972. 

Gerloe,  1170.  . 

Germany,  the  Empire  of,  547-703. 
States  of,  548. 


Gerolstein,  679. 
Gerona,  1270. 
Gersan,  11t>2. 
Gervais,  Baths  of,  1046. 

Route  from  Paris,  37. 


Gesler's  Castle,  1096. 
Gesteney,  1109. 
Geyser  Springs  (Iceland),  1349. 
Ghent,  518. 

to  Bruges,  520. 

Route  from  Paris,  38, 


Giant's  Causeway,  us. 
Mountain,  989. 


Giarre,  905. 
Gibostad,  13S3. 
Gibraltar.  1244. 

to  Tangier,  1245. 

to  Malaga,  1^48. 

—  Ronte  from  London,  30  ;  from  Pan'*.  3S. 
Giessbach  Falls,  1092. 
Gijon,  I^(i2. 
Gilleleic,  1322. 
Giornico,  1105. 
Girgeh,!»3S. 
Girgeuti,  899. 

to  Syracuse,  900. 


Gisselfeld,'l.S41. 

Gjendebod,  1424. 

Gjendeosen,  1425. 

Gjentofte,  1320. 

Gjesvaer,  1379, 1386. 

Gjolland,  1332. 

Gjorslev,  1343. 

Gjiivig,  1393,  1400. 

Glamis  Castle,  133. 

Glarnisch,  the,  1131. 

Glarus,  1131. 

Glasgow:  Hotels,  Commerce,  Ship-bnilding, 
109;  the  Cathedral,  Exchange,  110  :  Me- 
chanics'Institute,  Squares,  Parks,  Museum, 
Kelvin  Grove,  University,  111;  Bothwell 
Castle,  Hamilton  Palace,  Falls  of  the  Clyde, 
Excursions,  112,  113. 

Glasgow  to  Edinburgh,  112. 

—  to  Inverness,  ria  Oban,  112. 

to  Oban,  via  Inver.iry,  112. 

to  Oban  through  Crinan  Canal,  116. 

Ronte  from  London,  30 ;  from  Paris,  38. 

GVichenberg,  740. 

Glenarn,  99.' 

Glencoe,  121. 

Glendaiouch,  75. 

Glenelg,  148. 

Gleugariff,  55,  99. 


INDEX. 


13 


Glin,  65. 
Glis,  1113. 
Glogan,  629. 
Gloggnitz,  750. 
Glommen,  the,  1352. 
Gloucester,  273. 
Gluck.-berg,  Castle  of,  1317. 
Gmundrii.  ~ 
Gneseu,608. 
.  1444. 

God«,  Island  of,  1381. 
Gohantes.  1-'4'J. 
Gold  Hill,  1570. 
Goldnu,  1096. 
Qolspii 

Gomairoi,  749, 1101. 
Gorge  da  Trient,  1112. 
Gorge  of  Gondo,  10G5. 
Gorham,  l.V/J. 
Giirlitz.  t;i-. 
Garner  Grat,  1061. 
Gorz,  733. 

1151. 

Gotha. 

to  Eisenach,  623. 

Home  from  Paris,  33. 

Gotha  Canal,  the,  1401. 
Gothenburg,  1330, 1432. 

Route  from  London,  30. 

G6ttiii'_'i-ii,  til-. 

Kmite  from  Paris,  3>. 

Gottland.  Inland  of,  14S". 
Gozz< 

Grampenhof,  1162. 
Granada,  932,  126". 

Route  from  Paris,  3S. 

Grandson,  106T. 
Grandnm,  1400. 
Granollers,  1270. 

mere,  254. 
Gnu-stein,  1151. 
Gratsch,  1168. 
Griitz,  730. 

to  Linz,  733. 

Rente  from  Paris,  38. 

Gravdal,  1400. 

Gravelotte,  676. 

Graveseud,  217  2-8. 

Great  Britain,  History  aud  Government  of, 

43-46. 

Great  Grimsby,  237. 
Great  Scheideck,  1092, 
Greece,  991-lw>2. 

and  Turkey,  983-1002. 

Greenock,  114. 

Route  from  Paris,  38. 

Greenwich.  217  2-8.     Qreifenbure  1180 
*Wftlde,«M.        uie        3n  gl  u    ' 
!a!  Valley,  1326. 
Grenoble,  471. 

Rome  from  Lyons,  470;  from  Paris,  38. 

•  :iihel.  mil. 

i,  169. 
1184. 

Griino,  1421. 

Grimsel.  Hospice  of  the,  1093. 
Grindflwald.  UK'". 
Gripsholm,  Castle  of,  14-:;. 
Grodnerthal,  1153. 
Grondal  Stono.  1328. 
Groiiin_'en.  r.:;4  4--. 
Grosotto,  1163. 


Groto,  1382. 
Grotto  of  Balme,  1046. 
>f  Osteno,  1106. 

)f  St.  Paul.  !>14. 


Gruudsaei  OkMia,  1369. 
Gruyere,  111". 
Uuailalajara,  1274. 
Gubbi- 

Giidhjem,  K147. 
Gudvaiitrfii  i  Anrland,  1411. 
Gulsvik.  Hi.:,. 
Giirre,  1323. 
Gulereloh,  6SO. 
Gnttancn,  109i 
Gutvig,  1380. 

H. 

Haag,  1171. 
Haarlem,  533. 
Haarlev,  1343. 
Habo,  1467. 
Haddiugton,  16g. 
Hat".:,  1402,  14i>4. 
Hiifvernd,  H:». 
Hagenan,  675. 
Hague,  the.  530. 

to  Amsterdam,  530. 

to  Haarlem  and  Helder,  534  2-8. 

Ronte  from  London,  30;  from  Paris, 


38. 

Hainan,  629. 
Hill.  52X 
Hald.  1336. 

Halifax,  England,  264. 
Hall,  1145. 

HalliiiLjdal  Route,  the,  1403. 
Hallaberg,  1475. 
Hulm-tad,  1473. 
Halsnaes,  Peninsula  of,  1325. 
Halton.  •-'•;•.'. 
Haltwhi.-tle,  261. 
Ham,  the  State  Prison  of,  497. 
Hamar.  1368,  1393. 
Hamburg,  .v.i.'i. 
to  Copenhagen.  1312, 1313,  1317. 

— -  to  Frederikshavn,  1326. 

to  Stral-nnd,  557. 

Route  from  London,  30;  from  Paris,  38. 


Hamilton.  Canada,  1566. 
Hamilton  Palace,  Scotland,  113. 
Hammerfest,  13^. 
Hammerhnus,  1347. 
Hammerotind,  Island  of,  1388. 
Hammersteiu,  Castle  of,  682. 
Hampton  Court,  217. 
Hanau,  625. 
Handeck  Falls,  1093. 
Hanover,  Kiiicdorn  of,  577. 

City  of,  578. 

to   Bremen,  Hamburg,  Minden,  etc., 


597. 

to  Hamburg,  640. 

Route  from  London,  30;  from  Paris,  38- 

Hanstead,  1370. 

H.-iparanda.  1::!>1. 
Ilapsburg,  Castle  of,  1073. 
H.-irdaii-rer  Fjord,  the,  1420. 
Hardenberg,  1342. 
Hardewijk,  534  4-8. 
Hnrfleur,  390. 
HarliiiL'en,  5343-8. 
Harslcv.  1341. 
Harstadhavn,  13S2. 


14 


INDEX. 


Hartford,  United  States,  1563. 

Harvard  College,  1563. 

Harwich,  231. 

llarz  Mountains,  591. 

Hasle,  1340. 

Hastholmen,  1468. 

Hastings?,  England,  227. 

United  States,  1553. 

Hasvik,  1385. 
HatiL'an,  1389. 
Hauges'.ind,  1420. 
Haugsund  Junction,  1406. 
Haukelid  Saeter,  1409. 
Haut-Chatillon,  1114. 
Haute-Combe,  1138. 
Hants  Geneveys,  1115. 
Haveswater,  259. 
Havnik,  1383. 
HavOsund,  1386. 
Havre,  391. 

to  Dieppe,  391. 

to  England,  391. 

Route  from  London,  30;   from  Paris, 

38. 

II  a  wick,  173. 
Hawlbowline  Island.  50. 
Hawthorndeu,  158. 
Hay,  276. 
to  London,  via  Hereford,  Gloucester, 

and  Reading,  270. 
Headford,  86. 
Hebron,  968. 
Hecla,  Mount,  1349. 
Been,  1427. 
Heidelberg,  698. 

to  Paris,  699. 

to  Frankfort,  699. 

Route  from  London,  30;  from  Paris, 

38 

Heiflen,  1124. 
Heilbronn,  667,670. 
Heimdal,  1371, 1372. 
Helder,  the,  534  ;:  ->. 
Heleusburg,  114. 
Hellebek,  1828, 
Hellerup,  1320. 
Hellesylt,  1430. 
Helmsdale,  130. 
Helsingborg,  1471. 
Helsingfors,  1484. 
Helvedeshol,  Falls  of,  1393. 
Hemuaes,  1380. 
Herculaneiim,  886. 
Hereford,  274. 
Herford,  580. 
Herment,  941. 
Hermitage  Castle,  173. 
Hermitaire  Wines,  467. 
Hermsdorf.  724. 
Herning,  1339. 
Hernosand,  1480. 


Herrljunga,  1459. 
Herzber 


erg,  5!)-2. 
Ilerzogenbuch.  1073. 
Hessleholm,  1472. 
Ilestniandsi).  1381. 

Het  Nieuwe  Diep,  or  Willernsoord,  684  3-8. 
Hexham,  261. 
Hiero,  996. 
Hililal,  1409. 
Hildesheim,  577. 
HillofHowth,71. 
Hinnenip,  1327. 


Hints  to  .Travelers,  Introduction,  xiii-xxriii. 
Hirschberg,  724. 
Hirtsholmeue,  1335. 
Hitterdal  Church,  1408. 
Route,  the,  1404. 


Hjo,  1475. 

Hjorring,  1334. 

Hjortsdal  Village,  1331. 

Hobroe,  1329. 

Hoch  Eppnn,  1153. 

Hochheim,  689. 

Hoel,  the,  1396. 

Hof,  642. 

Hohenschwangau,  1166. 

Hohe  Salve,  1174. 

Hohlensteiu,  1172. 

Hoirus,  1333; 

Holaker,  1397. 

Holbek,  1339. 

Holland,  or  the  Netherlands,  524-534  7-S. 

Holmestrand,  1417. 

Holsaet,  131)7. 

Holsienborg,  Castle  of,  1341. 

Holstebroe,  1337. 

Holtaalen,  1372. 

Holybrook,  76. 

Holyhead,  250. 

Holzkirchen,  1145, 1174. 

Hombnrsr,  627. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris,  38. 

Honefos,  1427. 

Honfleur,  393. 

Hong  Kong :  Route  from  London.  31 ;  from 
Paris,  3a 

Hoorn,  or  Horn,  534  3-8. 

Horgen,  1088. 

Horgheim  i  Gryten,  1397. 
I  Horley,  22f  1-3. 
i  Hornbak,  1322. 
!  Home  Village,  1345. 
j  Hornileu  Peak,  the,  142a 

Horsens,  1326. 

Horsham,  2^*. 
I  Horsholm,  1319. 

Horten,  1416. 

Horup  Bay,  1317. 

Hospenthal,  1104. 

Hospice  of  St.  Christopher,  1165. 

Hotel  Byron,  1043. 

Houlgate,  393. 

Houukiar-Iskclessi,  989. 

Hoven,  1372. 

Hoxter,  593. 

Huben,  1182. 

Huddersfleld,  264, 

Huddiksvall,  1480. 

Hudson,  1555. 

Hudson  River,  the,  1552. 

Hull,  234. 

Hnltsfred,  1474. 

Humboldt  Wells,  the,  1570. 

Hungerford,  267, 

Huntingdon,  233. 

Hnsbyfjol,  1465. 

Hnsnm  i  Lnerdal,  1402. 

Hvedholm,  Manor  of,  1346. 

Hveen,  Island  of,  1319. 

Hyeres,  474. 

Route  from  Paris,  38. 


Iceland,  1348. 
Idlewild,  1554. 


INDEX. 


15 


Iffezhelm  Race-course,  702. 

Iffigenbach,  Falls  of,  1109. 

Ilfracombe,  285,  269. 

Imhof,  1093. 

Tmola,819. 

Imst,  1150. 

India,  Routes  to,  1572, 1573. 

Indre  Kvaro,  13*1. 

Inglinge  Ho-r.  1473. 

Ingolstadt,  i;r>7. 

Inkerraan,  14-J^. 

Inn,  Castle  of  the,  1160. 

Innspruck,  1145. 

to  Venice,  1172. 

to  Salzburg,  1173,  1176. 

to  Milan,  1177. 

to  the  Oetzthal,  11S1. 

from  Munich,  1174. 

to  Colico  (and  Milan),  over  the  Stelvio, 

747. 
to  Verona,  by  the  Brenner  Pass,  749, 

1175. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris,  38. 

Interlaken,  1076. 

Excursions,  1088. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris, 

3s. 

Inverary,  123. 
Inverlochy  Castle,  124. 
Inverness,  126. 
to  Aberdeen,  126. 

—  to  Thureo,  126. 
Inveroran,  145. 
lona.  120. 
Ipswich,  231. 
Ireland,  46-100. 

—  Routes  in,  47. 
Irvine,  126. 

Ischia,  Island  of,  891. 

Iserni'a,  875. 

I-l.iiidof  Gottland,  1480. 

of  Otlero,  1379. 

of  8:  i-omo,  1381. 


Isle-,  Loffoden,  the,  1381. 

Islc>  of  Greece,  the,  990.     T_m  „.•,;„  9V> 

Isolu  Bella,  1106.  Isnuilia,  952, 

Issella,  746. 

I -si  lire,  452. 

Italy,  741-894. 

Itri,  873. 

liter,  C'nstle  of,  1174. 

Ivren,  796. 


Jacksonville,  1579. 
J.ulraqne,  1274. 
Juegerspi  us,  1325. 
Jaffa,  955. 


J. 


to  Jerusalem,  956. 


Route  from  Paris,  38. 

J.-irdiu,  the,  1050. 

Jativa,  1260. 

Jedbnrgta,  161. 

Jelliuge,  1326. 

Jenatz,  1136. 

Jenbach,  1145, 1175. 

Jenin,  973. 

Jerez  de  la  Frontera,  1240. 

Route  from  Paris.  38. 


Jericho,  071 . 

Jerkin,  1395. 

Jeroskypos,  981  4-5. 

Jersey  City,  United  States,  1552. 

Jerusalem,  Approach  to,  956,  957 ;  Opinion  of 
Sir  Frederick  Henniker,  Stanley's  Firet 
Sight,  957,  958;  Modern  Houses,  Colonel 
James  Williams  of  Tennessee,  Mosque  of 
Omar,  Difficulty  of  Obtaining  Admittance, 
959;  Solomon's  Temple,  Mount  Moriah, 
Es-Sukhrah,  Holy  of  Holies,  the  Angel  Ga- 
briel and  Mohammed,  Population,  Mosque 
of  El-Aksa,  960;  Orange  Fountain,  the  Med- 
iterranean Hotel,  Holy  Places,  '.Mil :  Church 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  (Ground-plan),  94M; 
Minaret  of  Omar,  Holy  Sepulchre,  963;  Cen- 
tre of  the  Earth,  Hill  ofZiou,  Last  Supper, 
963,  964:  Calvary,  Coenacnlnm,  964;  Arme- 
nian Convent,  Jews'  Wailing-place,  Valley 
of  Jehoshaphat,  Fountain  of  the  Virgin, 
the  Virgin  Mary  Accused,  Pool  of  Silotim, 
Tomb  and  Chapel  of  the  Virgin,  965;  Gar- 
den of  Gethsemaue,  Backsheesh,  Mount  of 
Olives,  Bethany,  Tombs,  Absalom's  Tomb. 
Pool  of  Bethesda,  Via  Dolorosa,  Church  of 
the  Flagellation,  966;  Arch  of  the  Ecc-J 
Homo,  Tower  of  David,  967. 

Jerusalem  to  Hebron,  967. 

to  the  Dead  Sea,  969. 

to  Beyront,  971. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris, 


38. 

Johannisberger,  Castle  of,  689. 
John  O'Groat's,  131. 
Jonkoping,  1467. 
Jotuuheiin,  the,  1423. 
Jordan  River,  the,  970. 
Jnlier  Pass,  1123. 
Jungfran,  the,  1090. 
Jtirzon,  441. 

Jnstednl  Glacier,  the,  1416. 
Juterbogk,  615. 
Jyderup,  1340. 

K. 

Kaardal  Gaard,  1417. 
Kaaterskill  Falls,  the,  1565. 
Kaifa,  980. 
Kaiserswacht,  1175. 
Kalabshee,  044. 
Kalafat,  738. 
Kalamata,  1001. 
Kallundborg,  1339. 
Kaltenbrnnn,  1160. 
Kandersteg,  1074. 
Kandestederne,  1335. 
Kiinso,  1433. 
Karesuando,  1390. 
Karlskoga,  1469. 
Karlso,  1384. 
Karlstein,  W5. 
Karmsund,  14-Ji'. 
Kastnaeshavn,  1383. 
Katriiieholm,  1443. 
Kntwijk.532. 
Knufbeuren,  668. 
Kauns,  11S4. 
Knnrokeino,  1390. 

'.'75. 

Ken  I,  67.'. 
Kells,  72,98. 
Kelso,  162. 
Kempen,  534  4-3. 


16 


INDEX. 


Kendal,  252. 
Kengis  Bruk,  1391. 
Kenilworth  Castle,  244. 
Keumare,  55. 
Kenmore,  146. 
Kenneh,  938. 
Kertch,  1542. 

to  the  Caucasus,  1542. 

Keswick,  257. 
Kexisvara,  1391. 
Kharkoff.  1535. 
Kiefersfeldeu,  1145. 
Kiel,  1 :-:].'. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris,  38. 

Kil,  14119. 

Kilehurn  Castle,  14T. 

Kildare,  <!S. 

Kilnnaue,63. 

Kilkee,  65,  83. 

Kilkenny,  72. 

Killaloe,  80. 

Killarney:  Tore  Mountain,  55;   the  Gap  of 

Dunloe,59;  Magillicuddy'sReeks.GO;  Black 
•Valley,  60;   Tore  Lake, 60;   the  Lakes  jiud 

Islands,  61 ;  Rains  of  Muckross  Abbey,  Cil ; 

Ruins  of  Aghadoe,  62. 
Killamey :  Route  from  Paris,  38. 
Killybegs.  89. 
Killyleagti,  80. 
Kilmacdiiagh,  78. 
Kilniacthoii)as,77. 
Kilmallock,  63. 
Kilmarnock,  166. 
Kilmun,  123. 
Kilruddery,  76. 
Kil  rush,  65. 
Kilsmo,  1470. 
Kilsyth,  149. 
Kilworth,  59. 
Kingston,  Canada,  1566. 
Kingstown,  71. 

Route  from  Paris,  38. 

Kinross,  140. 

Kinsale,53. 

Kippel,  1114. 

Kirkcudbright,  174. 

Kirkestnen,  1394. 

Kirkevold,  1371. 

Kirkland  (Orkney  Islands),  1348. 

Kirkstnll,  263. 

Kissiiigen  Springs,  641. 

Route  from  London,  31;  from  Paris, 

38. 

Kistraud,  1387. 
Kiti,  981  3-5. 
KitzbQhel,  1174. 
Kjelstadlid,  1430. 
Kjelvid,  1379, 1387. 
KjeS,  1382. 
Kjoerringo,  1382. 
Kjoge,  1341. 
Kjolle  Fjord,  1387. 
Klamm,  750. 
Klampenborg,  1319. 
Klausen,  Switzerland,  1134. 

Tyrol,  749, 1152. 

Kleineu,  600. 
Klippan,  1472. 
Klosters,  1137. 
Kloven,  1383. 
Kniepass,  1166. 
Knightou,  280. 
Knockcroghery,  84. 


Knocklong,  63. 
Kobberdal,  1380. 
Koft,  939. 
Kolding.  1313. 
Kom-Oml)o,  '.142. 
Komoru,  735. 
Kougsberg,  1406. 
Kongsvinger,  14<M. 
Kongrivold  on  Dovre,  1396. 
Kouigsberg,  607. 
Konigsstein,  7'23. 
Koping,  1476. 
Kopmannbro,  1435. 
Koppaug,  1309. 
Kor.«naes,  l:^-J. 
Korosko,  944. 
Konklia,  981  4-5. 
Koulleli,  989. 
Kourou-Schechme,  9S7. 
Kousgoundjouk,  989. 
Kragero,  1418. 
Krementschug,  1535. 
Kreuth,  1175. 
Kreuznach,  691. 
Ki-imml,  1170. 
Kringelen  Hill,  the,  13fl4. 
Kroderem,  1404. 
Krokan,  140s. 
Kronberg,  Castle  of,  1321. 
Kronoberg,  Ruins  of,  1472. 
Krui)p  Steel  Fouudery,  5SL 
Kryll)o,  1479. 
Kiiblis,  1137. 
Kuffstein,  1145. 
Kulla  Gunnarstorp,  1472. 
Kundl,  1145. 
KiiiiLrshatt.  1483. 
Kursk,  1535. 
Knssnacht,  1096. 
Kvaal,  1372. 
Kyleakin.  14s. 
Kyles  of  Bute,  115. 


La  Bastide.  412. 

La  Chaux-de-Fonds,  1115. 

La  Comballaz,  1010. 

La  Enchina,  1259. 

La  Granja,  1224. 

La  Rochelle,  4(»S. 

Route  from  Paris,  38. 

La  Thuille,  1138. 

Lachen,  1117. 

Lacken,  512. 

Laerdal,  Valley  of  the,  1402. 

Laerdalsoren,  14(>2,  1410,  1414,  142L 

Laesovaerk,  1397. 

Laesso,  Island  of.  1330,  1335. 

Lago  di  Garda,  777. 

Lago  d'  Iseo,  805. 

Lanolin,  1474. 

Lai  bach,  731. 

Lake  Arresde,  1325. 

Avernus,  800. 

Bienne,  106S. 

Bolmeu,  1440. 

Boren,  1465. 

Brenner,  1151. 

Faeniund,  1369. 

Fousingso,  1328. 

Fnreso,  1319. 

—  Geneva,  1036. 

George,  1557. 


INKKX. 


17 


Lake  Hald,  1336. 

Leman,  lo:)7. 

Lucerne,  1101. 

Maggiore,  llos. 

Mahopac,  1553. 

Malar,  14S2. 

Mjoseii,  1::.V2,  136S. 

Saelbo,  1371. 

Siljan.  147'.». 

SkfiTid.-o.134a 

8ror-Sj."i.  1  :;•;'.' 

of  the  Thousand  Isles,  15«6. 

ofThmisee.  1177. 

of  Uri.  110-2. 

Wenern,  1443. 

Wettern,  1404. 

Yasuie,  MI. 

Lakes  of  En-land,  .'52-259. 

—  of  Ireland,  4>. 
Lam  peter,  98L 
Lanark,  Hi!. 
Lancaster,  2S1. 
Landau,  675. 
Laudeck,  ll.V.t,  1166. 
LandeiTL',  Castle  of,  1160. 
Landei 
Landerou.  i 
Landro,  li7-.'. 
Land's  End,  271. 
Landshut.  272. 
Landskrona.  1471. 
Laudevaerk.  14<>f>. 
Laugna,  132$,  1336. 
Langeland,  Island  of,  131S. 

LiUIL'i'-Ullil.  141>. 

Lantrnau,  1107. 

Lan^on,  411'. 

Lan-_'n'S.  471". 

Liinnemezai),  428. 

Lapio,  L:\ke  of,  1176. 

Lapps,  tlie,  1371. 

Lai-L's,  115. 

Larnaca,  !»81  8-5. 

Larne,  KNi. 

La-  Caldas  de  Besnra.  1200. 

Las  ( 'asetas,  127(>. 

La*  Veutas  de  Alcolea,  1231. 

I.asswade,  171. 

Latakia,  '.NI. 

Lathrop,  1571. 

Laulelrtui.'en,  1069. 

Laargaiurd,  i:;'.i5, 142-2, 14-23. 

Laurvik,  141  -. 

Lau.«anne:  Hotels,  1039  ;  C'athedral,  Terrace, 
Miiscnins.  Blind  Asylum,  the  Signal,  Cem- 
etery, Excursions,  10^10.  I<i41. 

Lausanne:  Routes  from,  1041. 

to  Arona  on  Liike  Maggiore,  over  the 

Simplon,  745. 

to  Basle.  1070. 

to  Neufchatel,  1067. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris, 


H. 

Laval,  400. 
Laveoo.  T'.'i. 
Lavin.  11-2(5. 
Lavis.  1155. 
Laxa,  1461, 1470. 
Lebanon  Springs,  1655. 
LeHestty.  K:»7. 
Lefos,  19ft. 
LeTtauger,  1415. 
Leksaud,  1479. 


Le  Locle,  1116. 

Le  Mans,  399. 

Le  Pont,  1116. 

Le  Prese,  1123. 

Le  Puy,  453. 

Leamington,  243  ;  Kenllworth  Castle,  244. 

Lebadea,  1000. 

Lebensberg,  Castle  of,  1168. 

Lebrija,  l-24«>. 

Lebrilln,  1257. 

Lecce,  824. 

Leeds,  238. 

Leenane,  87. 

Leer,  tH«. 

I.eeuwarden,  534  3-8. 

I^eghorn,  842. 

to  Rome,  842. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris,  38. 


Leicester,  -234. 
Leipzig,  619. 

to  Nuremberg,  629. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris. 

39. 

Leisach,  1180. 
Leiih,  157. 
Leixlip,  s->. 
Lemau,  Lake,  1036. 
Lend.  1171,  1174. 
Leugdorf,  1171. 
Lengenfeld,  1182. 
Lenk,  1109. 
Leominster,  '274. 
Leon,  1201. 
Leondari,  1001. 
Lepanto,  998. 
Ler,  1372. 
Lercara,  899. 
Lerida,  1271. 
Lermoos,  1666. 
Letup,  1332. 
Lervik,  1415, 1420. 
Les  Con  tanii  lies,  1051. 
Leuca,  825. 
Leuchars.  178. 
Lenk.  lu::;. 
Lenkei  bad.  1074. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 


Levanger,  1.389, 1391. 
Lewes,  227  1-3. 
Lewiston,  1566. 
Leyden,  532. 
Li  bourne,  412. 
Licata,  900. 
LidkOping,  1460. 
Liege,  515. 

Route  from  Paris.  38. 


Lien  z,  1180. 
Liestal,  1069. 
Liljebolmen,  1445. 
Lilla  Edet.1411.-.'. 
Lille,  499. 
Lille  Elvedal,  1370. 
Lillebrot:.  Hnins  of,  1346. 
Lillehammer,  1393. 
I.illestrrim,  1 
Litnasol,  9S1  3-6. 
Limbnrg,  628. 
Limerick.  64. 

Lace  from  Brussels,  64. 


I.imoires.  444. 
I.inarcs,  1-231. 
Lincoln .  England,  237. 
United  Slates,  1570. 


18 


INDEX. 


Liudau,  668. 

to  Augsburg  and  Wurzburg,  667. 

Linkopiug,  1441. 

Linlithgow,  150. 

Li  nth  Canal,  1117. 

Liuththal,  1134. 

Linz,  682,  726. 

Lion,  the,  of  Lucerne,  10S7. 

Lipari  Islands,  the,  902. 

Lisbon,  1284. 

—  Rome  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris,  39. 

Lisburn,  95. 

Lisieux,  392. 

Lismore,  57. 

Lissadill,  88. 

Listad  i  Sondre  Fron,  1394. 

Listowel,  65. 

Liternnm,  890. 

Little  Belt,  1317. 

Little  Falls,  1564. 

Liverpool,  240 ;  Birkenhead,  246. 

to  Lancaster,  Penrith,  and  Carlisle,  250. 

Route  from  London,  31;  from  Paris,  39. 

Routes  of  Travel  from,  241. 

Lizzana,  Castle  of,  1156. 

Llandovery,  280. 

Llaudndno,  249. 

Llangollen,  2SO. 

Lobau,  725. 

Locarno,  1105. 

Loch  Ard,  142. 

Corruisk,  182. 

Dochfour,  125. 

Earn,  146. 

Etive,  117. 

Fine,  Scotland,  117. 

Katrine,  134. 

Leven,  121. 

Linnhe,  121. 

Lochy,  125. 

Lomond,  134. 

Menteith,  141. 

Ness,  125. 

Oich,  125. 

Scavaig,  181. 

Skene,  160. 

Loches,  Castle  of,  40*. 

Lochs  of  Scotland,  106. 

Lockerby,  170. 

Lodi,  812. 

Lodingen,  1379, 1381, 1382. 

Lofer,  1171, 1176. 

Loffelhorn,  the,  752. 

Loffoden  Islands,  Group  of,  1351, 1331. 

Lofihus,  U-.'l. 

Logrono,  1276. 

Logstor,  1333. 

Loitsch,751. 

Loja,  1250. 

Loin  Church,  1422. 

London  :  Routes  from,  183  ;  Statistics,  Dis- 
tricts, 184 ;  Hotels,  Lodgings,  Restaurants, 
185;  Sights,  186,  187:  Tour  around,  188; 
Hints  to  Travelers,  189;  Parks,  190;  Albert 
Monument,  Hyde  Park,  101 ;  Squares.  193 ; 
Coveut  Garden  Market,  194:  the  Monu- 
ment for  the  Great  Fire,  Westminster  Ab- 
bey, 195;  Monuments  and  Memorial  Tab- 
lets, 196;  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  197: 
nn  Opening  of  Parliament,  Westminster 
Hull,  the  Thames  Embankment,  St.  Paul's 
Cathedral,  198;  Temple  Church,  St.  Bar- 
tholomew the  Great,  St.  Savionr,  St.  Mary-  ; 


le-Bow,  St.  Mafy-le-Savov,  199;  St.  James's, 
Piccadilly,  St.  Martin  -  in  -  the  -  Fields,  St. 
Helen's,  St.  Giles's,  St.  George's,  St.  Ste- 
phen's, Spurgeou's  Tabernacle,  Whitehall 
Chapel,  the  Tower  of  London,  200;  the 
Horse  Armory,  the  Jewel-house,  the  British 
Museum,  201 ;  the  National  Picture-gallery, 
202;  the  South  Kensington  Museum,  the 
National  Portrait-gallery,  the  Hoyal  Albert 
Hall  of  Arts,  Soane's  Museum,  203 ;  East 
India  Museum,  Royal  College  of  Surgeons, 
United  Service  Museum,  Museum  of  Prac- 
tical Geology,  Madame  Tussaud's  Wax- 
works, Buckingham  Palace, 204;  St.  James's 
Palace,  Whitehall,  Marlborou<_'h  House, 
Kensington  Palace,  Lambeth  Palace,  Aps- 
ley  House,  205 ;  Stafford  House,  Northum- 
berland House,  Bridgewater  House,  Grosve- 
nor  House,  Devonshire  House,  Montague 
House,  Norfolk  House,  Holland  House, 
Manchester  House,  Robert  Peel's  House, 
Bank  of  England,  Royal  Exchange,  '.'(Hi ; 
Mansion  House,  Guildhall,  General  Post- 
office,  Custom-house,  Somerset  House,  Bur- 
lington House,  Hall  of  Science,  Annual  Ex- 
hibition of  Pictures,  207;  University  of 
London,  Royal  Mint,  Treasury  Buildings, 
Horse  Guards,  Stock  Exchange,  Schools, 
Colleges,  Learned  Societies  and  Hospitals, 
the  Foundling  Hospital,  208 ;  London 
Bridge,  Southeastern  Railway  Bridge, 
Blackfriar's  Bridge,  London  and  Dover 
Bridge,  Hungerford  Bridge,  Waterloo 
Bridge,  Westminster  Bridge,  other  Bridges, 
the  Thames  Tunnel,  Thames  Embank- 
ment, Holborn  Viaduct,  St.  Catharine's 
Docks,  London  Docks,  other  Docks,  St. 
Pancras  Railway  Station,  Great  Western 
Railway  Station,  209;  Victoria  Station, 
Charing  Cross  Station,  other  Stations, 
Clubs  of  London,  210;  London  Market*, 
Theatres,  211 ;  Cremorne  Gardens,  Kew 
Gardens,  Music  Halls,  Derby  Day,  Ascot. 
Day,  212;  Alexandra  Palace,212-215;  Royal 
Aquarium,  Cemeteries,  215;  Barclay  and 
Perkins's  Brewery,  Tradesmen  Recom- 
mended, 216;  Sydeuham  Crvetal  Palace, 
186,  287. 

London — Excursions  from:  Windsor  Castle, 
Richmond,  217 ;  Hampton  Court,  Green- 
wich, Dulwich,  218. 

London  :  Route  from  Paris,  39. 

Routes  to  All  Parts  of  the  World,  29-33. 

to  Bath,  Bristol,  and  Clifton,  267. 

—  to  Bedford,  Nottingham,  etc.,  234-236. 
to  Birmingham  and  Liverpool,  239-242, 

to  Brighton  and  Isle  of  Wight,  218- 

•  to  Christiania,  via  Christiansnnd,  1366. 
to    Ely,   Norwich,   Cambridge,    Yar- 
mouth, etc.,  230-232. 

to  Dover,  via  Chatham,  228. 

to  English  Lake  District,  252. 

•  to  Epsom,  Tuubridge  Wells,  etc.,  227, 

•  to  Folkestone  and  France,  227. 
to  Harwich  and  "Holland,  230. 

to  Hastings,  Chiselhurst,  and  Tun- 
bridge  Wells,  226. 

to  Land's  End,  267. 

to  Maidstone  nnd  Folkestone,  227. 

to  Oxford,  Kenilworth,  etc.,  264. 


287. 


226. 


287. 


INDEX. 


19 


London  to  Paris,  228,  288,  294,  300. 
to  Ramsgate  and  Maiyati',  2ss. 

—  to  Rochester,  Canterbury,  Dover,  22*. 
to  Scarborough,  234. 

—  t<>  Winchester  and  Southampton,  286. 
London,  (':iii:ula,  1567. 

Londonderry,  s'.>. 

to  Glasgow,  90,  100. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris,  39. 

Lone,  1412. 

Longarone,  1173. 

Longeborgne,  Hermitage  of,  1058. 

Longford,  •*•'. 

Longaeriue,  301. 

Longwy,  496. 

Loppen,  13S4. 

Lorca,  1257. 

Loreto,  823. 

Lough  Currane,  81. 

Gnr,  63. 

Neagh,  94. 

Louisville,  1568. 
Lonrdes,  431. 
Louth.  2:ss. 
Louviiin,  521. 
Lovero,  1163. 
Lowei-z,  1097. 
Lowther  Castle,  259. 
Lubeck,  MM;. 
Lucca,  825. 

—  to  Pisa,  825. 
Lucerne,  1086. 

to  Como,  over  the  St.  Gothard,  746. 

—  Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris,39. 
Luchon,  424. 

Excursions  from,  426-428. 

Ludlow,  274. 
Ludvika,  1476. 
Ludwigslust,  595. 
Lneg,  Ruins  of,  1151. 
Luiraiio,  T'.IO,  1106. 

to  Luiuo,  790. 

Lugo,  813, 1203. 
Luino,  790, 1105. 

—  to  Pallanza  nnd  Stress,  790. 
Lukm.'inier  Pass,  1133. 

Lulea,  1480. 

Lumphanan,  137. 

Lund,  1437, 1470. 

Lundby,  1341. 

Lundeinn,  1372. 

Lumk'i-sknv,  1338. 

Lunebiirg,  641. 

I.nncvillr,  I'.'-J. 

Lungern,  1035. 

Lusigiian,  40S. 

Lutry,  1041. 

Luxembourg,  494. 

Liu,  435. 

Lyddn,  or  Lood,  956. 

Lyngby,1819. 

IA-II-CII  Fjord.  i:;*4. 

Lynffnolmen,  14-JO. 

Lyngseldet,  1383. 

Lynn  Kesris,  '232. 

Lyo,  Island  of,  1345. 

Lyons:  Hotels,  Silk-looms,  etc.,  455  1-3-456. 

to  Geneva,  456. 

to  Strasburg,  4'.»'>. 

Route  from  London, 31;  from  Paris, 89. 

Lysi-  Fjord,  the,  14t!». 
Lyster  Fjord,  the,  1416. 
Lysthuus  i  Hitterdal,  1408. 


M. 

Maabdeh,  937. 
Kaalmaea,  1379,1383. 

Maa.-.i,  13Mi. 

Mackinac,  Island  of,  1568. 

Maeon,  407. 

Macroon,  54. 

Macngnaga,  loft!,  HM3G. 

Madeira,  Island  of:  Route  ftiim  London,  81. 

Madrid:  Hotels,  1210;  Climate,  1211;  Man- 
uers  and  Customs,  l'.'1-J;  1'uerta  del  Sol, 
Prado,  Royal  Palace,  Coach-house  and  Ar- 
mory, 1213 ;  Naval  Museum,  Museum  of 
Natural  History,  1214;  Library,  Theatre*, 
1215;  Royal  Picture-gallery,  1215-1220; 
Academy  of  San  Fernando,  1220  ;  Churches, 
Cemeteries,  Hospitals.  1221 ;  Government 
Buildings,  Royal  Carpet  Manufactory,  1'ra- 
do,  Casn  del  Campo,  El  Prado,  1222;  the 
Escnrial,  122:-!,  l'-'24. 

Madrid  to  Toledo,  1225. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris,  39. 


Madulein,  1125. 
Maestricht,  534  6-S. 
Magadino,  747, 1105. 
Magdeburg,  587. 

to  Berlin,  068. 

to  Hrunswick,  588. 

to  Kreienseii,  592. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 


Magenta,  791. 
Maglehdr,  the,  1325. 
Magilligan,  90. 

Magland,  1046. 
Mahopac  Lake,  1553. 
Maidstone,  227  »-3. 
Mainan,  1082. 
Mainland  Island,  1348. 
Maintenon,  398. 
Main/,  or  Mayeuce,  692. 
Malaga,  1249. 

Route  from  London,  81;  from  Paris,  39. 


Malanger  Fjord,  the,  13S3. 
Malar  Lake,  1482. 
Malcesine,  777. 
Miilen,  1392. 

Malestrom,  the,  1351,  138€. 
Maliues,  or  Mechlin,  612. 
to  Antwerp,  513. 


Mallow,  55,59. 
Malmaison,  3S2. 
Malmanger,  1371. 
Malnn"),  1  •»::••. 
Malmft,  Island  of,  L484. 
Maloja  Pass,  1129. 
Mais,  748, 1161. 
Malta,  MO-MB. 

to  Alexandria,  915. 

to  Lanis,  915. 

Route  from  London,  31. 


Malvern,  2»i<;. 

Mammoth  Cave  (Kentucky),  1569. 

Manchi-sier,  '-'40. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 


Manfaloot,  937. 
Mannup,  1541. 
Mannheim.  697. 


Mantngne.241. 


Manilla,  ^n.Y 

.  -  to  Cirmona.806. 

-  to  r'anna.  --nr.. 

-  .  to  Reggio,  806. 


•20 


INDEX. 


Manilla:  Route  from  Paris  HO. 

Mauzaimres,  1230, 1-J7T. 

Mar  Saba,  969. 

Marathon,  995. 

Marburg,  623,  730,  7W  i. 

Marche,  518. 

Mareilla,  1276. 

Mareugn,  797. 

Margate,  288. 

Margaux,  415. 

Manager,  1329. 

Maribo,  1342. 

Mariefred.  Ue° 

Marienbad,  725 ;  Ronte  from  Paris,  39. 

Alarienburg,  606. 

Marienlyst,~1321. 

Mariestad,  1461. 

Marifjaeren,  1416. 

Maristuen  i  Laerdal,  1402. 

Marlborough,  267. 

Marly,  1520. 

Marsala,  900. 

Marseilles :   Hotels,  History,  Steamers,  471- 

473. 

Route  from  London,  31;  from  Paris,  39. 

Marelev,  1314. 
Martigny,  1055. 

—  Route  from  Paris,  39. 
Martinswaud,  1158. 
Martorel,  1266. 
Mart  res,  423. 
Maryborough,  6S. 
Masnedsuud,  1342. 
Massa,  809. 
Matarengi,  1391. 
Matlock,  246. 
Matrey,  1150. 
Matt,  1131. 

Matterhorn,  the,  1060, 1062. 
Maubeuge,  497. 
Miiuchline,  127, 166. 
Maiikhalid,  981. 
Mayence,  or  Mainz,  692. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris,  39. 

Mayenfeld,  1119. 
Maynooth,  82. 
Mazzara,  900. 
Meaux,  480. 
Mechlin,  or  Malines,  512. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 

Medemblik,  534  3-8. 

Medinaceli,  1274. 

Medina  del  Campo,  1208. 

Medina  de  Rio  Seco,  1208. 

Medijia-Sidonia,  1244. 

Meddfc,  413-415. 

Megara,  998. 

Megaspelion,  998. 

Meilen,  1117. 

Meillerie,  10-14. 

Meiuingen,  624. 

Meiringen,  1091. 

Meissen,  619. 

Me.) del,  975. 

Melbourne,  Routes  to,  1574. 

Melfl,  893. 

Melhus,  1372. 

Melleck,  1176. 

Mellerud,  1434. 

Mel  rose,  159. 

Melnn,  741. 

Mem,  1466. 

Menaggio,  789. 


Mengabrit,  1278. 
Menjeba,  1231. 
.Menione,  476. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 


Meppel,  534  4-8. 
Meran,  1167, 1177. 
Merida,  1278. 
Merok,  1430. 
Mersina,  or  Mersa,  981. 
Merthyr  Tydvil,  277. 

to  Brecon  and  Hay,  276. 


Messina,  903. 

—  to  Athens,  906. 

to  Malta,  Constantinople,  and  Alexan- 


dria, 906. 
Messina  to  Syracuse.  904. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 

Routes  by  Steamers  from,  904. 


Metz,  670. 
Meuug,  403. 
Mezieres,  495. 
Middelfahrt,  1313. 
Middelburg,  526. 
Miedero,  1183. 

Milan:  Hotels,  Palaces,  Churches,  etc.,  780- 
786. 

to  Florence,  787,  812. 

to  Genoa,  803. 

to  Lake  Como,  787. 

to  Paris,  786. 

to  Turin,  791. 

to  Venice,  787. 

Route  from  London,  31 ;  from  Paris,  39. 


Mileto,  893. 
Millport,  115. 
Mils,  1159. 
Milwaukee,  1568. 
Minde,  1368. 
Minden,  579. 

from  Hanover,  579. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 


Miuyeh,  936. 
Mirabeau,  469. 
Miraflores,  1198. 
Miranda  de  Ebro,  1196. 
Miseno,  890. 
Missoloughi,  998. 

- to  Athens,  998. 

Mistra,  1001. 
Mitchellstown,5S. 
Mittelberg,  1184. 
Mittelhorn,  the,  1091. 
Mittenberg,  the,  1119. 
Mitterbad,  116S. 
Mittersil,  1171, 1174. 
Mittewald,  749,  1151. 
Mittewald  on  the  Drave,  1180. 
Mjolby,  1441,  1475. 
Mjoseii  Lake,  1352, 1363. 
Mjiisstrand,  1409. 
Mo,  1380. 
Modane,  477. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 


Modena,  814. 

Route  from  London,  32 ;  from  Paris,  39. 


Modica,  901. 
Modon,  1001. 
Moelen,  1388. 
Moen,  1394, 1409. 
Moerdijk,  528. 
Moffat,  170. 
Mogen,  1409. 
Moheda,  1440. 


INDEX. 


21 


MoisMic,  420. 
Molde,  1398, 1431. 
Moldestad,  14:;«. 
Moleson,  the,  110S. 
Molins,  112-.'. 
Molmen,  1397. 
Mombegno,  749. 
Monaco.  476. 

—  Route  from  I'aris,  39. 
Money— Kind  to  Carry,  xv. 
Monlatrol.  1271. 
Monniouth.  274. 
Moiirenle,  S98. 

MODS,  523. 
Monserrat,  1269. 
Montarsiis,  44!». 
Montaoban.  420. 

Monlliiird,  458,  741. 

Montbeliard,  493. 

Mont  Blanc,  Ascent  of,  1049. 

C'enis  Tuunel,  744. 

Dore,  4.V.'. 

St.  Michel,  395. 

Teudre,  1116. 

Torreuthoni,  1074. 

Velan,  1056. 

Montboyon,  1110. 
Monte  Fnlcinno,  844. 

Rosa,  1063. 

Sissone,  1129. 

Monteleone,  s'.(2. 
Montelimar,  468. 
Montcreau.  457,  741. 
Monlevanchi,  839. 
Montferrand,  415. 
Montgomery,  128. 
Montljo,  1278. 
Montilla,  1248. 
Montmedy,  496. 
Montmelian,  477,  744. 
MonMnocenci,  Falls  of,  1559. 
Montmorency,  390. 
Moutpellier,  447. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 

Montplaisir,  lf>2<». 
Montreal,  1557. 
Moutreux,  745,  1043. 
Montrenx-Territet,  1043. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 

Mont  rose,  180. 

Mon  /on,  1272. 

Mon/os,  1199. 

Moo-.  1182. 

Morat,  1071. 

Morbfirno,  1129, 1164. 

Moreton,  265. 

Morirarten,  Battle  of,  1130. 

Moires,  1039. 

Morkfos  Falls,  1416. 

M5rkov,  1340. 

Morlaix,  400. 

Morocco,  s>4Ci. 

Morso.  Island  of,  1333. 

Moscow :  Hotels,  the  Kremlin,  etc.,  1523-1532. 

Route  from  London.  32  :  from  I'aris, :«». 

—  Ronte  to  Ode— a,  I ;•:;-!. 

to  Nijni  Novgorod,  1533. 

Moses,  the  Fountain  of,  '.'45. 
Moss  1417. 

Motnla,  1464, 1475. 
Mot  ril.  1257. 
Mottet,  1052. 
Moulins,  449. 


Mount  CannH,  !-HI. 

Etna,  906. 

Harry,  227  1-3. 

Hecla,  1349. 

Horeb,  947. 

Parnapcus.  w.>. 

Tabor,  974. 

Vesuvius,  ss4. 

Washington,  1500. 

Minln,  1179. 

Mulilbach,  1179. 

Mfihlhanaen,  680. 

Miihlheim,  673. 

Mn  I  bouse,  480. 

Mtillingar,  82. 

Munich :  Hotels,  Public  Bnildiuas,  etc.,  64t- 

662. 

to  Augsburg,  663. 

to  Frankfort,  666. 

to  Inn>|inick,  1174. 

to  Lindau,  liii^i. 

to  Paris,  663. 

—  Ronte  from  London,  32;   from  Paris, 

38. 

Munkholm,  Fortress  of,  1389. 
Mmmoth,  Castle  of,  718. 
Munster,  614. 

Muoniokosi,  Falls  of,  1391. 
Muottathal,  1131. 
Muradn  Saeter,  14£4. 
Murat,  454.  • 
Murcia,  1257. 
Murren,  1090. 
Murviedro,  1263. 
Mtirzzschlag,  750. 
Mnstad,  1400. 
Mutterberger  Alp,  1184. 
Mycense,  996. 

N. 

Nablous,  972. 
Naes,  1404,  1427. 
Nago,  1176. 
Nah  ed-Damour,  979. 
Nakkehoved,1322. 
Nakskov.  1343. 
Namsen  Fjord,  the,  .1379. 
Namsos,  1379, 1388,  1389. 
Namtir,  515. 

Route  from  Paris,  39. 


Nancy,  491. 
Nant'Borant,  1052. 
Nantes,  401, 405. 

Route  from  Parts,  39. 


Naples :  Hotels,  Cabs,  875  ;  History,  Fortifica- 
tions, 876;  Churches,  the  Duomo,  Basil- 
ica of  Santa  Restituta,  Cnppella  del  Te- 
soro,  the  Liquefaction,  S.-uiia  Maria  della 
Pietra  di  Sanuri,  ->77  :  (  liristmas,  C'emeter- 
ies,  Palaces,  Libraries,  ^7^  :  Mu-eo  Xazio- 
uale,  879-881  ;  Villa  Naz.ionale,  Aquarium, 
Zoological  Station,  Observatory,  Univci.-i- 
ty,  Catacombs,  Theatres,  English  Church, 
etc.,  861;  Excursions  in  the  Environs,  882- 
890. 

Naples  to  Cairo,  891. 

to  Fnggia,  873. 

—  to  Messina,  891. 

to  Palermo.  s;U,  894. 

to  Paris.  s'.M. 

to  Salerno,  882,  s'.M . 

to  Taranto,  s«.i:;. 

—  Ronte  from  London,  32 ;  from  Parig,I9. 


INL'EX. 


4  :-- 


.1UBL 


h    '..  ::CT. 


Hw«5ft,  im,  iiaa.ua 


.   |   ^..^r 
Jfew  Hno,  Uufteft  State*,  ISM. 


Eaa?"»"« 

££XJ 


»T~L-£--.  ^ 

•MV^WH! 

w^M.ta 

>>i.-v   :•* 

ACwMBM  A  boer.  JUIt 

Jtewto^Stewan,  J75. 
-   nrt,*L 


4T4.  4Tr,: 


Or^-n^.  ML 
ObadnadMns,119K. 

;::4. 


•  H  . 
-to] 

•  to] 

•  Rnate  frnrn  ! 


MK* 


M 
net 
tMkv 


r.  ::'.". 
f •--.-.  :i-.-\-.4i:.' 


Odessa. 


Oe*ebi»eo  Thai,  MT4. 
Oetxtltt. 
OeuxbaL  11SI. 
Offenbach.  «9L 
OCtMu  Fjord,  the,  13SX. 


OUad,133X. 

i-  ;«*:>.  i~- 
OMeobare.  •* 
Utdere»,UMl 


V.  Ti. 
Oiirobe,  im. 

ovt-rr.  :.4T. 


Otoavli 

to  Bade.  1MB. 

Route  frum  Para, «. 


OaiBejdah,»«. 


Onberg  Xontau,  MM. 

,m 

L 

(mm  Pan*, «. 


.. 

6rebro,HT5. 
Oreboved,  fttt. 
Orel,] 


Orleans, 

O-rnr  •  I  Oqrtn  .  :-:$:. 
Onno,  Island  ot  HS4. 
OraMwte.1111. 


<*,  11ML 


Ortler9pitc.11Mi.Utt. 
Onrtate,MK 

o<.  on 


. 

•  inlkc,  :-:«^. 


(M^XMT. 


Roa  le  from  Lflodoa,  31  ; 
MM. 


froai  Paris, 


K  --ke.  :^:. 


Ottawa. 


Padva:  BotelB.  DaMao,  Chnckn,  «&,  1H- 

TTi. 


Pad»Ia,M*. 


Faric.«. 


•  Ri 


r-, 

Pal 

PaIlaa*a,«M,ll 

Kovte  troai  Paris,  4*. 


PxranHlw  de  la  Kben,  MW. 

Paradfetakkeae,  IMS. 

Ptuedes  de  Kan,  un. 

Paiw:  Apprruca  6x>n  Room,  3*1  : 


tke  Oc- 


tory  of  Paris,  MC;  theWa 
M7,  MB;  Diary  of  th«  War,  the  TWen 
GUI »!••>•!,  the  Coaiawae  art  the  On*. 
er«aM*t,MR-X18;  Lerioa  of  Havor,  ATBIT, 

VtortiftcatkwB,n8:  CVwrte.  Triboafe,  art 

^—_-«  -  *    -  -  •         ,••  • —  — ^  — 

t^vn  dflauBmraooav,  «iv; 

Prima«,art  Qntwrioaal 
3»:  Oildtca  of  AiaerkaM 
Death*  of  AMerkaae  in  Frame 
Pan*   for    Fifteen    Days,  39: 
Bfeht  DayaTlbr  T«o 
SSS :  Dajs  art  How?  i 

.  ^iwMMMte,  art  lArariee  CM  he 

YMted.  MS:  Theanvs,  Xew  Openhhoiae. 


o  -  Day, 


etcw3M-9Ki;  OoownsPsWk- 
Glacier,  m  3» :  Bate  MatqaeX 


:•-. 


Ml ;  the  New  Boato- 
O4;lheBiidHJfe. 
cwntaiw.Co- 
PfaKe  de  te  Bonae,  Place 
da  ChAteaa  d'Kaa,  Place 
Place  del.  Concorde  of 


24 


INDEX. 


Louis  XV.,  Obelisk  of  Luxor,  Place  Dau- 
phine,  Arc  <le  Triomphe  de  1'Etoile,  338; 
Place  de  Greve,  Place  Louvois  or  Richelieu, 
Place  du  Palais  Bourbon,  Pantheon,  Place 


Porte  St. Denis,  Porte  St.  Martin,  Statue  of 
Ney,  of  Henry  IV.,  Fontaines  tie  1'ArbreSec, 
de  la  Rue  de  Grenelle,  des  Innocents,  Mo- 
liere,  Garden  of  ihe  Tuileries,  340:  Garden 
of  the  Luxembourg,  Champs  filysees,  Uond 
Point,  Arc  de  1'fitoile,  Bois  de  Boulogne, 
Avenue  du  B.  de  Boulogne,  Porte  Dauphine, 
341 ;  Hippodrome  de  Lougcnamps,  Cascade 
Longchamps,  Alice  Longchamps,  Theatre 
des  Fleurs,  Croix  Catelan,  34-2;  Churches, 
Chapel  of  St. Ferdinand,  Cathedral  of  Notre 
Dame,  343;  Church  of  St.  Roch,  the  Made- 
leiue,344;  Notre  Dame  de  Lorette.Cliurch  of 
St.  Eustache,  Church  of  SL  Germain  1'Aux- 
errois,  Church  of  St.  Sulpice,  345;  Church 
dn  Val  du  Grace  and  Hopital  Militaire, 
Church  of  St.  fiiienne  du  Mont,  Church  of 
Vincent  de  Paul,  346 ;  Notre  Dame  des  Vic- 
toires,  Saint  Chapelle,  American  Chapel, 
347;  Palaces  of  the  Tuileries  and  Louvre, 
347,  348 ;  the  old  Louvre,  Colonnade  dn  Lou- 
vre, Tower  of  ihe  Louvre,  Palais  de  I'Elysee 
Napoleon,  349;  Palais  Royal,  Palais  du  Lux- 
embourg. 350  ;  Palace  of  the  Legislative 
Body,  351;  Palais  de  I1  Industrie,  Palais  dn 
Quai  d'Orsay,  Palais  de  la  Legion  d'Hon- 
neur,  Palais  de  1'Iustitut,  352;  Hotel  des 
Etrangeres,  the  Institur,  Hotel  de  Ville, 
Bauque  de  France,  the  Bourse  or  Exchange, 
353;  Mint,  Imperial  Carpet  Manufactory, 
354;  Government  Printing-office,  Govern- 
ment Porcelain  Manufactory,  Government 
Tobacco  Factor}-, General  Post-office,  Plate- 
glass  Warehouse,  the  Pantheon,  355;  Hotel 
Pompeien,  the  former  Mansion  of  Prince 
Napoleon,  Maison  de  Francois  I.,Maison  de 
Corneille,  Maison  de  Racine,  Sports,  Races, 
356;  Jockey  Club,  Hippodrome  de  Lonsr- 
champs,  357";  Museums,  Art  Galleries.  :;.r>7- 
365;  Museum  of  the  Louvre,  Museum  of 
Paintings,  Drawings,  Sculpture,  etc..  357- 
364;  Expiatory  Chapel,  Hotel  de  Cluny, 
Palais  des  Thermes,  Private  Collections, 
etc.,  365;  (educational  Establishments,  the 
Sorboune,  Palais  and  ficole  des  Beaux  Arts. 
366;  BibliothOque  Imperiale,  .lardin  des 
Phillies,  367  ;  the  Menagerie.  Museum  of 
Natural  History,  Conservatoire  des  Arts, 
36S;  Hospitals,  "Almshouses.  369  ;  Mont  de 
Piete,  Creches.  Hotel  des  Invalides.  :;7n  : 
ficole  Militaire,  371;  Military  Hospitals, 
Markets,  Tattersall's,  Abattoirs,  Artesian 
Wells,  372;  Canal  de  1'Ourcq,  Sewers,  Cata- 
combs, Cemeteries,  373:  Tradesmen  Recom- 
mended,374;  Bankers.  Physicians, and  Law- 
yers, 376,  377  ;  Restaurants,  General  Advice 
to  Travelers,  etc.,  376,  377  ;  Exposition,  377. 

Paris  to  Calais,  Route  No.  110,  296. 

to  Dieppe,  Route  No.  ill.  3^6. 

to  Havre,  Route  No.  112,  390. 

to  Cherbourg.  Route  No.  113,  392. 

to  Brest.  Route  No.  114.  :','.'7. 

to  Copenh.iL'en.  Route  No.  115,  1297. 

to  Nantes,  Route  No.  llf>,  4111. 

to  La  Rochelle,  Route  No.  116, 407. 

to  Poitiers,  Route  No.  117.  409. 


Paris  to  Bordeaux,  Route  No.  118,  419. 

to  Bayonue,  Route  No.  119,  423. 

to  Orleans,  Route  No.  120,  443. 

• to  Narbonne,  Route  No.  121,  446. 

to  Mimes,  Route  No.  122,  450. 

to  Lyons,  Route  No.  123,  454. 

to  Nice,  Route  No.  124.  457. 

to  Geneva,  Route  No.  125,  476. 

to  Geneva,  via  Dijon,  1029. 

to  Dijon,  Route  No.  126, 478. 

to  Basle,  Route  No.  127,  478. 

to  Basle,  via  Belfort,  1029. 

to  Strasburg,  Route  No.  128,  480. 

to  Lyons,  Route  No.  129,  4'.'--'. 

to  Luxembourg,  Route  No.  130, 493. 

• to  Thionville,  Route  No.  131,  494. 

to  Cologne,  Route  No.  132,  496. 

to  Brussels,  Route  No.  133,  498. 

to  Berne,  via  Dijon,  1029. 

to  Genoa,  741. 

to  St.  Petersburg,  1490. 

to  Turin.  743. 

to  Vichy.  741. 

Route  from  London,  32. 

Routes  from,  to  all  parts  of  the  world, 


34-42. 
Parma:    History,  the  Ducal  Palace,  Farnese 

Theatre,  Museum,  813;  Churches,  Palazzo 

del  Giordano,  the  Stradoue,  814. 
Parma  to  Reggio,  814. 

Route  from  London,  32 ;  from  Paris, 


40. 

Parpan,  1122. 

Passage  per  Steamships,  xviii-xx. 
Passau,  727. 
Passeyrthal,  1151. 
Passports  —  Regulations    regarding    United 

States,  xv  et  seq. 
Pastarena,  1066. 
Paternion,  1181. 
Patmos,  983. 
Patras,  H& 
Patseher  Kofel,  1150. 
Patterdale,  259. 
Patti,  903. 
Pan,  438. 
Excursions  from  :  Rides  on  the  Hills 

of  Jurancon.  439. 

Route  from  London,  32 ;   from  Paris, 


40. 

Panillac,  Chateau  Lafitte,  416. 
Pavia,  803. 

to  Valenza,  804. 


Pedrera,  1248. 
Peebles.  171. 
!  Peekskill,  1553. 
Pegli  Station,  742. 
Pembroke,  276. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 


Penge,  227. 

Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation 

Routes,  1573. 
Penistone,  263. 
Penrith,  251. 
Penzance,  271. 
Perarolo,  1173. 
Peri,  750, 1156. 
Pe>igueux,  445. 
Pennine,  498. 
Perpignau,  4-.'3. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 


Perth,  133. 
Perugia,  839. 


INDEX. 


Pesaro,  821. 
Pescara,  823. 
Peschiera,  777, 1176. 
Pesth,  736. 

to  Pragerhof,  739. 

Route  from  London,  32  ;  from  Paris, 

40. 

Peterborough,  233. 
Peterhof  Palace,  1520. 
Petersburg,  United  States,  1578. 
Petra,  !»4S. 
Petworth,  227  1-3. 
Peutelstein.  Castle  of,  1172. 
Pfaffers,  Baths  of,  1118. 
—  Route  from  Paris,  40. 

PnVl'srh,  1151. 

Plleix-lnhal,  1151. 

Pfunds,  1160. 

IM'vu.  Forest  of,  745,  1113. 

Philadelphia,  1ST6. 

Philse,  943. 

Piacenza,  812. 

to  Parma,  813. 

Picolein,  117!». 

Pidhnvro,  !>06. 

Piermont,  1553. 

Pierre  a  Bot,  or  Toad-Stone,  1068. 

Pierrefonds,  4'.»7. 

Pietra  Santa,  809. 

I'ilatka,  1579. 

Pilatus,  Mont,  1099. 

Piraeus,  990. 

to  Corinih,  995. 

Pisa  :  Hotels,  Cathedral,  809 ;  the  High  Altar, 
Tombs,  Baptistery,  Leaning  Tower,  810; 
Campo  Santo,  Church  of  Santa  Caierina, 
Santa  Maria  della  Spina,  University,  Bo- 
tnnical  Garden,  Museo  di  Storia  Naturale, 
Accademia  delle  Belle  Arti,  Palazzo  Lan- 
franchi,  the  Residence  <>f  Lord  Byron, 
Countess  Guiccioli,  811 ;  Piazza  doi  Cava- 
lieri,  Baths,  San  Pietrp  in  Grado,  Certosa, 
Cascine,  812. 

Pisa  to  Florence.  812,  825. 

to  Leghorn,  812. 

to  Rome,  812. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 

Pissouri,  981  4-5. 
Pistoia,  818. 

to  Florence,  818. 

Pitzthal,  the,  11S4. 
Piz  Aluu,  1119. 

•  Berniua,  1127. 

Chiampatsch,  1126. 

Corvatsch,  1123. 

Griatschouls,  1126. 

Lmgnard,  li'-'7. 

Mezdi,  11-26. 

.  Morteratsch,  1127. 

Mundaiui,  1132. 

Mm-ailir,  1127. 

Nair,  1123. 

Pisoc,  1126. 

Rosetr,  1127. 

Rusein,  or  Todi,  1134. 

Sol,  1119. 

Plangeros,  1184. 
Phuteubei-g,  1170. 
Plau,  1179.  • 

Plauterkill  Clove,  1555. 
Plombieres,  492. 
Plurs,  1129. 

Plymouth,  England,  272. 
2 


Plymouth,  United  States,  1561. 
Puissy,  387. 
Poitiers,  407. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 


Poix,  518. 

Polirate  Junction,  2-27. 

Poltava,  1535. 

Pombal.  1-2*9. 

Pompeii,  886. 

Ponale,  Falls  of,  777. 

Pont  St,  Martin,  796. 

Poutarlier,  478. 

Ponte,  1125. 

Ponte  de  Sor,  1279. 

Pontevedra,  1205. 

Pontresina,  1126. 

Pontypool,280. 

Poole,  286. 

Pooley  Bridge,  259. 

Pools  of  Solomon,  968. 

Poperinghe,  523. 

Population  of  Cities  in  United  States,  1545. 

Poretta,  818. 

Porlezza,  1107. 

Porphyry  Gorges,  the,  1153. 

Poreanger  Fjord,  1387. 

Port  Glasgow,  114. 

Portadown,  95. 

Portaletrre,  1279. 

Porto  Maurizio,  742. 

Portpatrick,  175. 

Portree,  129. 

Pormish,  98. 

Portsmouth,  221. 

Portugal,  12SO-1292. 
i  Portugaleii-.  1197. 

Portumn.i,  M>. 

Posehiavo,  H2S. 
,  Posen,  6(18. 
!  Potenza,  893. 

Potsdam,  573. 

Poimlikeepsie,  1554. 

Po/a/ol.  12UO. 

Praa,  748. 

Prad,  1128, 1161. 

Praesto,  1344. 

Prague  :  Hotels,  Altstadt,  St.  John  Nepomuk, 
720;  Hradschin,  Lanrenziberg,  Cathedral, 
Relics,  Chapel  of  St.  John  Nepomnk,  Caro- 
linum,  Thein-Kirche.  Rathhaus,  7'21  ;  John 
of  Lnxemhourg,  Museum,  John  Huss, 
Acropolis,  Queen  Libussa,  Czerniu  Palace, 
722;  Wallenstein's  Palace,  Places  of  Resort, 
Manufactures,  Monuments,  722,  723. 

Prague  to  Vienna,  723. 

Route  from  London,  32;  from  Paris, 


40. 

Preromanz,  1179. 
Presbnr-r,  734. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 


Prescott,  Canada,  156C. 
Preston,  251. 
Preston  pans,  163. 
Priuzensbosch,  .r>:;4  2-S. 
Proao,  1381. 
Pi-ocid.-i.  Isle  of,  SOI. 
Providence,  1  .'••;::. 
Piutz.  1160,  11^4. 
Puerto  de  Santa  Maria,  1242. 
Pnertollano,  1277. 
Pnrmereiid,  5343-8. 
Putbus,  600. 
Pylos,  1002. 


26 


INDEX. 


Q 

Quebec,  1568. 
Oiieeustowi),  60. 
Qntu,  T8. 
Qnintanilla,  1200. 
Onintos,  1288. 
Qvestgaard,  1321. 
Qvidiuge,  1472. 

R 

Raade,  1434. 

Racconigi,  796. 

Ragatz,  1118. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 

Raghly,  88. 

Ragusa,  901. 

Rambouillet,  398. 

Ramleh,  957. 

Ramlosa,  1472. 

Rammis,  1477. 

Ramsgate,  2SS. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 

Ramso,  1379. 

Ranault,  1183. 

R.inden?,  1328. 

Randkloveskaaret,  1347. 

Randsfjord,  1427. 

Ranft,  10S5. 

Rapperschwyl,  1117. 

Ras  en  Nakonrah,  930. 

Raspenstetn,  Rains  of,  1151. 

Rathdram,  75. 

Rathhans,  600. 

Rathlin  Island,  99. 

Ratisbon :  Hotels,  the  Dome  or  Cathedral  of 
St.  Peter,  630 ;  the  Rathhans,  the  Scotch 
Benedictine  Church,  the  Walhalla,  or  Tem- 
ple of  Fame,  631. 

Ratisbon  :  Route  from  Paris,  40. 

Rattenberg,  1145. 

Rans,  1471. 

Ravello,  884. 

Ravenna,  819. 

to  Faenza,  etc.,  820. 

Ravensburg,  668. 

Rawvl,  Summit  of  the,  1109. 

Reading,  242. 

Redondela,  1205. 

Reggio,  893. 

Rehines,  580. 

Reichenau,746. 

Reichenbach,  724, 1120. 

Reichenhall,  730, 1177. 

Reien  i  Slidre,  1401. 

Reigate,  227  1-3. 

Rein,  1376. 

Reine,  1382. 

Reinosn,  1200. 

Reitan,  1371. 

Remngen,  682. 

Rena,  1369, 1371,  1426. 

Renfrew.  114. 

Rennes,  400. 

Renor  Island  of,  13*7. 

Reno,  United  State?,  1570. 

Repraag,  13S7. 

Reschen-Scheideck,  Pass  of,  1160. 

Reus,  1265. 

Retulingen,  669. 

Rentte,  1166. 

Reykjavik,  134S. 

Rheims,  495. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 


Rheineck,  Castle  of,  682. 

Rlieinfelden,  1079. 

Rheiugan,  689. 

Rheinstein,  Castle  of,  689. 

Rhine:  Route  from  London  to  the,  32 ;  from 

Paris,  40. 
Rhiuebeck,  1554. 
Rhoda,  926,  937. 
Rhodes,  981  4-5. 

to  Smyrna,  981  4-5. 


Rhone  Glacier,  the,  1094. 
Khuabon,  278. 
Rhyl,  248. 
Ribe,  1338. 

Richmond,  Surrey,  England,  217. 
United  States,  1578. 


Richterswyl,1117. 

Ricla,1274. 

Riddarholmen,  1445. 

Ried,  748, 1160. 

Riffelberg,1061. 

Riga :  Route  from  Paris,  40. 

Rigi.  the,  1098. 

Riise,  1430. 

Rimini,  821. 

to  Anconn,  821. 

toBrindisi,821. 


Ringadn  Saeter,  1425. 

Ringkjobing,  1337. 

Ringsaker,  1393. 

Rinirsted,  1314. 

Rio  Frio,  1224. 

Riom,  451. 

Ripalta,  823. 

Ripon,  23S. 

Rise,  1396. 

Rispebjerget,  134S. 

Riva,  988. 

Rjnkan,  Falls  of  the,  1408. 

Rjnkanfoe,  the,  140S. 

Roanne,  454. 

Rochefort  (snr  Mer),  411. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 


Rochester,  England,  228. 

United  States,  1564. 

Rockland  Lake,  1553. 
Rocky  Mountains,  the,  1570. 
RC>rllijprget.  1376, 1379. 
Rodbye,  1343. 

Rodersberg,  fniter  of,  CS3. 
Rodesund,  1464. 
Rodo,  1381. 
Rildsheim,  1422. 
Rodsnnd.  the,  1379. 
Roermond,  534  6-8. 
Rogers's  Slide,  1557. 
Roeskilde,1314. 
Rohrerbuchel,  1174. 
Riiken,  1405. 
Rokkestun  Stonp,  1346. 
Rolfsohavn,  138C. 
Rolle,  1038. 
Romainmotier,  1116. 
Romanshorn,  1100. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 


Rome :  Hotels,  Apartments,  Caf6s.  Cabs,  846 ; 
Days  for  Visiting  the  Sights,  847 ;  Origin 
nnd  History  of  the  Citj^tS :  Walls.Gates, 
Bridges,  849 :  Fornm  Tlomaunm,  Temple 
of  Concord,  Temple  of  Vespasian,  Temple 
of  Saturn,  Arch  of  Septimins  Severn*.  Col- 
umn of  Phocas.Vin  Sacra.  Basilica  of  Julia, 
Recortasis,  Temple  of  Romulus,  Arch  of 


INDEX. 


27 


Janus  Quadrifrons.Cloaca  Maxima,  Temple 
of  Vesta,  Temple  of  Ceres  and  Proserpine. 
Temple  of  Forluna  Virilis,  House  of  Kienzi, 
Excavations  at  the  Palace  of  the  i 
House  of  Augustus,  Circus  Maximus,  Baths 
ofCurucalla,  t>&0;  Arch  of  Constaiitiue,  Meta 
Stidans, Temple  of  Venus  and  Koine,  H>i silica 
of  Coustantine,  Colosseum,  Baths  of  Titus, 
861 ;  Temple  of  Remus,  Tomb  of  Bibulus, 
Capitol, Dying  Gladiator,etc.,S52;  Re.-erveil 
Cal)inet,  Venus  of  the  Capitol,  staiue  of 
Marcus  Aurelius,  Tarpeian  Rock,  Fuium 
Trnjannm,  Forum  of  Pallas,  Pantheon, 
Temple  of  Neptune,  863:  Theatres,  Baths 
of  Diocletian,  Tom!)  of  Hadrian  ui"\v  the 
Castle  of  St.  Angelo),  &54;  Tomb  of  the 
Scipios,  Columbaria,  Piazzas,  Churches, 
St.  Peter's,  865  ;  Monuments,  Ascent  of  the 
Dome,  Subterranean  Church,  866;  Ceremo- 
nies in  St.  Peter's,  Lateral)  Basilica,  Table 
on  which  the  Last  Simper  was  Eateti,  Scala 
Santa,  Santa  Maria  Maggiore,  867 ;  Chapel 
of  the  Holy  Sacrament,  Pauline  Chapel, 
St.  Paul  without  the  Walls,  Basilica  of 
St.  Lorenzo,  St.  AL'IK-S,  Basilica  of  the  SS. 
Apostoli,  S5S;  other  Churches,  869;  Vati- 
can, Immense  Number  of  Rooms,  Scaln  Re- 
gia,  Sistine  Chapel,  Michael  Angelo's  Fres- 
coes, Loges  of  Raphael,  Stanze  'of  Raphael, 
860;  Picture  -  gallery,  Raphael's  Transfltr- 
uration,  SCI ;  Dorneuichino's  Masterpiece, 
the  Communion  of  St.  Jerome,  Museum, 
Library, 862;  Corridor  of  Inscriptions,  Mu- 
seo  Chiaramonti,  Braccio  Nuovo,  Statues 
and  Busts,  Fann  of  Praxiteles,  Rotunda, 
Court  of  Belvidere,  S63;  the  Laocoou,  Apol- 
lo Belvidere,  Hall  of  Animals,  Gallery  of 
Statnes.Hall  of  the  Greek  Cross,  Hall  of  the 
Biga,  Etroscan  Museum,  Lnteran  Maseuni, 
Quirinal  Palace,  Private  Palaces,  Palazzo 
Borghese,  864;  Palazzo  Colonna,  Palazzo 
Corsini,  Palazzo  Doria-Pamfili,  Farnese, 
Farnesina,  Barberini,  Spada  (Pompey's 
Statue),  865;  Rospigliosi,  Gnido  a  Murder- 
er, Academy  of  St.  I. nke.  Manufactory  of 
Mosaics,  Garden*  of  the  Vatican,  Bankers, 
Manufactures,  Villas  (Albani.  Borghese), 
866 :  Lndovisi.  Pamtili-Doria,  Palatina.  and 
Wolkonsky;  Excursions:  Vin  Appia.  Tomb 
of  Scipio.  Arch  of  Drusus,  Church  of  St.  Se- 
bastian. Tomb  of  Cecilia  Metella,  867;  Al- 
bano,  Grotta  Ferrata,  Frascati,  Claudian 
Aqueducts,  Sacred  Grove  of  Bacchus  (called 
by  some  the  Temple  of  Egeria),  Palestrina, 
Colonna,  Tivoli,  Villa  of  Hadrian,  868: 
Mons  Sacer,  Veii,  Prima  Porta,  Osti 
ni,  Studios  of  Different  Artists,  869:  cli- 
mate, Physicians,  Lodgings,  870 ;  Carriages, 
Servants,  Presentations  to  the  Pope,  871. 

Rome  to  Florence,  871. 

to  Naples,  871,  872. 

to  Paris,  871. 

Route  from  London,  32 ;  from  Paris, 

40. 

Rome,  United  States,  1564. 

Ronda,  1248. 

Ron  ne,  1346. 

Ronneby,  1482. 

Roosendaal.  .*>27. 

Roros,  1370, 1425. 

Riirvig,  1380. 

Rosanio,  893. 

Roscommon,  85. 


Roscrea,  79. 

Piosenborg  Castle,  12!i!>. 
Itosenheim  Junction,  1145. 
Kosenlaui,  Baths  of,  1092. 
Kosersburg  Chateau,  1477. 
Ros! in,  Castle  of,  158. 
Koss,  272. 
Rostrevor,  96. 
Hothenthnrm,  1136. 
Rothesay,  Inle  of  Bute,  115. 
Rottenburg,  67o. 
Rotterdam,  528. 

to  the  Hague,  via  Delft,  530. 

Route  from  London,  32;  from  Paris, 


40. 
Rouen,  387. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 

Roumili-Fener,  988. 

Roumili-Kisear  (Castle  of  Europe),  988. 

Roundstone,  84. 

Routes  and  Passes  into  Italy,  with  Time  and 

Expense,  741-8!>4. 
from  London  to  all  parts,  of  the  world, 

29-33. 
from  Paris  to  all  parts  of  the  world, 

34-42. 

through  Ireland,  46. 

through  Scotland,  104. 

through  England,  183. 

through  Frauce,Belgium,and  Holland, 


294. 
through  Norway   and  Sweden,  1360, 

1361. 

Roveredo,  750, 1156, 1175. 
Rovigo,  807. 
Royan,  412. 
Royat,  452. 

Rubens,  the  Painter,  508. 
Rudesheim,  691. 

Route  from  Paris, 40. 


Rugby,  240. 
Rugeii,600. 
Rnnstcd,  1319. 
Russia,  1486-1543. 
Riistchuk,989. 

—  Route  from  Paris,  40. 
Rusleii  Pass,  the,  1395. 
Rydal,  Mount,  265. 
Ryrtboholm,  145S. 
Ryde,  Isle  of  Wight,  222. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 

Rytterknaegten,  1346. 

S. 

'S  Hertogenbosch,  534  5-8. 
Snarbruck,  677. 

Saardam,  or  Zaandam,  534  2-8. 
Saas,  1066. 
Sabadell,  1271. 
Sabbath-day  Point,  15T.7. 
Sachseln,  1086. 
Sacnsenbtirg,  1180. 
Sachseuklammc.  1 152. 
Sacramento,  1571. 
Saeby.1080. 
Saclbo  Lake.  1371. 
Snelhnns,  1880. 
Safed,  !»75. 
Safsji, strom.  1473. 
Siiguenay  River,  the,  1559, 
Sahagun,  lail. 
Saintee,  411. 
San  Vito,  1173. 


INDEX. 


St.  Andrew's,  178. 

—  Anthony,  Falls  of,  1569. 

—  Antou,  1165. 

—  Asaph,  248. 

—  Augustine,  United  States,  1579. 

—  Barnabas,  981  3-5. 

—  Bernard,  1053. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 

—  Branchier,  1057. 

—  Brieuc,  400. 

—  Catherine,  1567. 
-  Cloud,  383. 

—  Cyr,  398. 

—  Denis,  384,  389. 

—  Elie,  981  3-5. 

—  Erik's  Grotto,  1475. 

—  fitieune,  453. 

—  Fillaus,  146. 

—  Gall,  or  St.  Gallen,  1121. 
Route  from  Paris,  4t. 

—  Germain,  385. 

—  Gervais,  1046. 

Route  from  Paris,  37. 

—  Gingolph.1044. 

—  Gothard  Railway,  1100. 

—  Helen's  Well,  1325. 

—  Jean  de  Luz,  418,  :194. 

—  Johann,  1176. 

—  Jtirgensbjerg,  1332. 

—  Laurent  dn  Pont,  470. 

—  Leonard's,  England,  227. 

—  Leonards,  Tyro',  1179,  11S4. 

—  Lorenzo,  1179. 

—  Lonis,  1569. 

—  Malo,  396. 

—  Martin,  1046. 

—  Martins,  1177. 

—  Martory,  424. 

—  Maurice,  745. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 

—  Michel,  477,  744. 

—  Michele,  1155. 

—  Moritz,  Baths  of,  1123. 

Route  from  London,  32;  from  Paris,4:. 

—  Niklans,  1060. 

—  Ninians,  176. 

—  Omer,  499. 

—  Oiien,  3S5. 

—  Paul,  1569. 

—  Pet-ay,  468. 

—  Petersburg:  Routes  to,  Hotels,  1491;  Islands 
and   Bridges,  St.  Isaac's   Cathedral,  1492; 
Smolnoi  Church,  Institution    des    Demoi- 
selles Nobles,  Cathedral  of  St.  Petersburg, 
1493;  Cathedral  and  Fortress  of  St.  Peter 
and  St.  Paul,  the  Mint,  1494;  Preobajenski 
Church,  Winter  Palace,  1495,  1490;  Crown 
Jewels,  1497;    the  Hermitage,   149S-1509; 
Marble    Palace,   Michailoff  'Palace,   1509: 
Tnurida    Palace,  Annitchkoff  Palace,  the 
Admiralty,  Statues  of  Peter  the  Great  and 
Catharine  II.,  1510;  Arsenals,  Museum  or 
Academy  of  Sciences,  Foundling  Hospital, 
1511  ;  Lying-in  Hospital, University,  Acade- 
my of  Arts,  1512  ;  Russian  Gallery,  Private 
Picture-galleries,  1513  ;  Imperial  Public  Li- 
brary, 1514;  Museum  of  Imperial  Carriages, 
1515;  Moscow  Gate,  1516  ;  Fur-dealers,  The- 
atres, Summer  Gardens,  Gardens  of  C'ath- 
arineschoff,  1517  :  Alexander  Palace,  1518  ; 
Pavlofsk  Palace  and  Arsenal,  Poulkova  Ob- 
servatory, 1519. 

St.  Petersburg  to  Cronstadt,  1519. 


St.  Petersburg  to  Novgorod  the  Great,  1521. 

to  Moscow,  1523. 

Route  from  London,  32  ;  from  Paris,  41. 

St.  Pierre,  1056. 

—  Prex,  1039. 

—  Quentin,  497. 

Route  from  London,  32 ;  from  Paris,  41. 

—  Raphael,  742. 

—  Remo,  742. 

—  Sauveur,  436. 

—  Savin,  433. 

—  Sebastian,  1194. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 


—  Sergins  Monastery,  152L 

—  Uri'ch,  1179. 

—  Vittore,  747. 
Sala,  1479. 
Salamanca,  1208. 
Sale,  1248. 
Salisbury,  2S3. 
Sallanches,  1046. 
Sailing,  1333. 
Salon,  1264. 

Sal  rock,  87. 
Salstrom,  the,  1381. 
Salt  Lake  Ciiy,  1570. 
Snlten  Fjord,  the,  13S1. 
Salud,  1200. 
Salurn,  1155. 
Salzburg,  729,  1174,  1177. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 


Samaden,1169. 
Samaria,  972. 
Samoens,  1051. 
San  Bernardino,  747. 

—  Fernando,  1242. 

—  Francisco,  1571. 

—  Germano,  871. 

—  Ildefonso,  1224. 

—  Marco,  1156. 

—  Moritz,  1169. 

—  Pierdarena,748. 

—  Remo,  808. 
Sande  Fjord,  1418. 
SundfarhiHis,  13S9. 
Sandtorv,  1382. 
Sandviken,  1405. 
Sannesoen,  13SO. 
Sauquhar,  167. 
Santa  Christina,  1170. 

—  Croce,  1173. 

—  Cruz  de  Mndelti,  1231. 

—  Maria,  1162.1179. 
Sautander,  1200. 
Santarem,  1279. 
Santiago,  1204. 
Saragospa,  1272. 

Route  from  Paris,  40. 


Saratoga,  1556. 
Bardaabu,  1271. 

Sardinero,  1200. 
Sarirans,  1118,1171. 
Sarinena,  1272. 
Sarnen,  1086. 
Sarntheim,  1153. 
Sarpsborg,  1434. 
Sarzana,  Si  19. 
Sattel,  1136. 
Sanmur,  -("I. 
Sant  Ste.  Marie,  1568. 
Savannah,  1578. 
Savigliano,796. 
SavoDa,  743. 


INDEX. 


Saxen-les-Bains,  1112. 
Saxj.ibing,  i;;4-.'. 
Saxony,  632. 
Sciuifs,  1126. 
Scarborough,  238. 
Schaffhausen,  1080. 

to  Constance,  1080. 

Schalders,  Baths  of,  1152. 
Schanze,  1155. 
Schelleberg  Station,  1151. 
Schenectady,  1564. 
Scherzligen,  1075. 
Scheveningen,  532. 
Schiedam,  527. 
Schiers,  1136. 
Schilthorn,  the,  1090. 
Schinznach,  Baths  of,  1073. 
Schlauders,  1167. 
Schlangenbad,  695. 

Route  from  London, 32:  from  Paris,  40. 

Schleswig,  598. 
Schliersee,  1175. 
Schlitters,  1169. 
Schloss  Carlctein,  1177. 
Schlndens,  1161. 
Schluderbach,  1172. 
Schmerikou,  1117. 
Schuiian,  1182. 
Schonberg,  1150,1183. 
Schiinbrunn,  717. 
Schupfheim.  1107. 
Schwa)  bach,  695. 

Route  from  London,  32;  from  P;iri-s 

41. 

Schwanden,  1131. 
Schwarenbach.  1074. 

Schwarzer  Thurm,  or  Black  Tower,  107S. 
Schwaz,  1145. 
Schweizerhof,  the,  1079. 
Schwelm,  594. 
Schwerin,  599. 
Schwyz,1097. 
Scilla,  893. 
Scionzier,  1046. 
Scotland,  101-182. 
Seaconrt,  54. 
Seaford,  227  1-3. 
Sebaste,  972. 
Sedan,  496. 
See,  1184. 
Seelisberg,  1102. 
Seewen.  1097. 
Segni,  869. 
Segovia,  1225. 
Sehail,  942. 
Seistrup,  1332. 
Selimis,  Ruins  of,  900. 
Selsovig,  13-q. 
Semlin,  737. 
Sempach.  1<>77. 
Sennwald,  1125. 
Sens,  457.  741. 
Sepey,  1110. 
Serravalle,  1173. 
Servia,  737. 
Sestri  a  Ponente,  743. 
Sevastopol,  1537. 

to  Chersonesus,  1538. 

to  Baktchissarai,  1539. 

Sevclen,  1171. 
Seville,  1232. 

to  Cadiz,  1240. 

Sevres,  384. 


Shanghai:  Route  from  Paris,  41. 

Sheffield,  234. 

Sbekh  Abaddeh,  937. 

Shetland  Islands,  1348. 

Shiloh,  or  Sellnn,  972. 

Shrewsbury,  245. 

Sicily,  895-905. 

Sidon,  t»7'.t. 

Sieben  Brunnen,  the,  1109. 

Siena,  843. 

Sierra  Nevada,  1250. 

Sierre,  745, 1064. 

Sigmnndsburg,  Ruins  of,  1166. 

Sigmundskron,  Castle  of,  1153, 1168. 

Signildsberg,  1477. 

Siguenza,  1274. 

SiQan,  1479. 

Silkeborg,  1339. 

Sils  Maria,  1129. 

Silverplana,  1123. 

Silz,  748,  1159. 

Sitnpheropol,  1541. 

to  Theodosia  and  Kertch,  1541 


Simplon,  the,  746, 1065. 

Sinai  to  £1  Akaba,  946. 

Sing  Sing,  1553. 

Singsaas,  1372. 

Sinigaglia,  822. 

Sion,  1110,  ma. 

Sioot,  or  Assiimt,  937. 

Siwah,  949. 

Sixt,  the,  1051. 

Sjiibunclen,1426. 

SjSrring,  1331. 
I  Sjiitorp,  1463. 
I  Skagen,  1335. 

Hkanderborg,  1327, 1333. 

to  Herning,  1338. 

Skarreklit  Rock,  1333. 

Skarridsfi  Lake,  1340. 
i  Skarsfjelde,  1371. 

Skeje  i  Hjnerdal,  1409. 

Skeleton  Tours,  xxiv-xxviii ;   throngli  Scot* 
land,  101-105. 

Skenninge,  1475. 

Skibotten,  1383. 

Skieu,  1426. 

Skipton,  263. 

Skive,  1337. 

Skjaeggestad  i  Ringebo,  1394. 

Skjaerpingaard,  1332. 

Skjern  Castle,  1329. 

Skjervo,  1384. 

Skjoldeu,  1416. 

Skjorta,  the,  1430. 

Skodsborg,  1319. 

Skofde,  1460. 

Skogdalsboen,  1425. 

Skogstad,  1401. 

Skr.ien,  1400. 

Skokloster,  Castle  of,  1477. 

Sknt.-Ieven,  1403. 

Skye,  Isle  of,  148. 

Slagelse,  1314. 

Slathdale,  181. 

Sleepy  Hollow,  1553. 

Sligo,  88. 

Slnppen,  1372. 

Smedjebacken,  1470. 

Smyrna,  981  4-5. 

t«  Constantinople,  983. 


Snaasen  Vand,  the,  1389. 
Snarnra,  1404. 


30 


INDEX. 


Sneebattan  Mountain,  the,  1395. 

Sneern,  82. 

Snerle,  1422. 

Snowdon,  Mount,  27& 

Soberg,  1372. 

Soboden,  1426. 

Siiborg,  1322. 

SocueTlaraos,  1268. 

Siklerhamn,  14SO. 

Siiderkopiug,  1466. 

Sodertelje,  1444, 1466. 

Soestdyk,  634  4-S. 

.Sogne  Fjord,  the,  1414. 

Sognedal,  1415. 

'Sognefest,  1415. 

Soissons,  494. 

S6kkeu,1334. 

Sol  berg  Fjord,  the,  13S3. 

Solden,  1182. 

Soleure,  or  Solothnrn,  IOCS. 

Solferino,  750, 1157. 

Soil,  1176. 

Solstein,  the,  1158. 

Solvorn,  1416. 

Somnaes,  1380. 

Sondrio,  748, 1164. 

Sonnebeg,  625. 

Sonora,  1572. 

Soran,  629. 

Sorgenfri,  1321. 

Soro,  1314. 

Sorrento,  882. 

Sornm,  1422, 1428. 

Siisdala,  1439. 

Soto  de  Roma,  1257. 

Southampton,  2S6. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 

Soveien,  1383. 

Spa,  516 ;  the  Fountains,  Excursions,  Casino, 
Races,  Lea  Qnatre  Fils  Aymon,  517. 

Route  from  London,  32;  from  Paris,  41. 

Spain,  1185-1279. 
Spaudan,  595. 
Sparta,  1000. 

to  Pylos,  1001. 

Speer,  the,  1118. 
Spell.  >,  841. 
Spezia,  809. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 

Spiez,  1075. 
Spital,  1181. 
Spiterstuhl,  the,  1424. 
Splugen,  746. 
Spoleto,  840. 
Spondining,  1161. 
Springfield,  1563. 
Staatsbnrg,  1554. 
Stachelberg,  Baths  of,  1134. 
Stiifa,  1117. 
Staffa,  120. 
Stafflach,  1151. 
Stafford,  240. 
Stai,  1369. 
Staigne  Fort,  82. 
Staldeu,  1066. 
Stalheim  i  Vos,1411. 
Stamford,  United  States,  1564, 
Stams,  1158. 
Stangenaes,  1379. 
Stargard,  604. 
Statzerhorn,  the,  1122. 
Stavanger,  1377, 1419. 
Stee,  1401. 


Steensballe,  1327. 
Stehag,  1439. 
Steiu,  1160. 
Stein  Pass,  1176. 
Steinach,  749, 1163. 
Steiubruckeu,  750. 
Steiudalsfos,  the,  1420. 
Steinheim,  593. 
Stelvio,  the,  748, 1163. 

Pass,  1161. 

Road  over  the,  74& 


Stenalt,  1329. 

Sleuay,  496. 

Stendal,  577. 

Stenia,  988. 

Stenkjaer,  1389. 

Stennis,  1348. 

Steuvigen,  1369. 

Sterziug,  749, 1151. 

Sterzinger  Moss,  1151. 

Stettin,  603. 

to  Stralsund.  605. 

to  Breslan,  609. 

Stevnsherred,  the,  1341, 1343. 

Stirling,  138. 

Stockeuboyerthal,  11SO. 

Stockholm :  Hotels,  Riddarholmen,  Hel^e- 
andsholmeu,  Carriages,  1445,  1446;  K.iv:u 
Palace,  1447;  Royal  Library,  National  Mu- 
seum, Castles,  etc.,  1448-1457;  Excnrsi.ins 
from,  1458. 

Stockholm  to  Copenhagen,  1481. 
from  Gothenburg,  1458. 


to  St.  Petersburg,  1483. 

Route  from  Pans,  41. 

Stockport,  240. 

Stockton,  United  States,  K.71. 
Stoke  Pogi?,  242. 
Stoksund,  1379. 
Stonehenge,  2S4. 
Stony  Clove,  1555. 
Stony  Point,  1553. 
Storebro,  1474. 
Storeheddinge,  1344. 
Storen,  1372, 1396. 
Storhattau,  the,  1397. 
Storklevstad  i  Qvams,  1394. 
Stor-Sjo  Lake,  1369. 
Stornoway,  149. 
Storstennaes,  1383. 
Storsveeu,  1428. 
Storvik,  1479. 
Storvola  Fjeld,  1370. 
Stoss,  the,  1102. 
Stovringgnard,  1329. 
Strabaue,  89. 
Stralsund,  600, 1437. 
Strand,  1408. 
Strangniis,  1483. 
Stranraer,  175. 
Strasbnrg,  670. 

to  Basle,  670,  679. 

to  Cologne,  672,  674. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 


Strass,  1169. 

Strassberg,  Castle  of,  1151. 

Stratford-on-Avon,  244. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 


Strath  ire,  144. 
Strathpeffer,  129. 
Straubing,  727. 
Strelua  Palace,  1521. 
Stresa,  746,  791,  1065, 1106. 


INDEX. 


31 


Strib,  1313. 

Stromuaes,  13S4. 

Stromness,  1343. 

Stromo,  1381. 

Stromsholm,  1477. 

Si  roms.K;  Island,  1348. 

Struer,  1337. 

Stnbay,  Valley  of,  1160, 1183. 

Stnbbenkammer,  6U1. 

Stuben,  1106. 

Stuedal,  1371. 

Stueflaaten,  1397. 

Stuen  i  Opdal,  1396. 

Sluhlfeldeu,  1171. 

Stuttgart,  665. 

to  Heidelberg,  670. 

to  SchaffhaiiBen,  669. 

Route  from  London,  32 ;   from  Paris, 

41. 

Sueca,  1263. 
Suez,  945. 
Route  from  London,  33 ;   from  Paris?, 

41. 

Sulden,  1162. 
Sulitjema,  the,  1381. 
Siilmona,  875. 
Sulstnen,  1392. 
Sundsvall,  1480. 
Sundvolden,  1173. 
Sunnyside,  1553. 
Surendal  Valley,  the,  1431. 
Sin-see,  1077. 
Susa,  745. 
Susten,1113. 
Svanike,  1347. 
Sviirholt,  1387. 
Svendborg,  1317, 1345. 
Svinklov  Cliff,  1332. 
Swansea,  276. 

Sweden,  1356-1360, 1432-1485. 
Switzerland:   Routes,  Passports,  etc.,  1017- 

1140. 

Syd-Krogo,  1379. 
Sydney,  Routes  to,  1574. 
Symi,  981  4-5. 
Syracuse,  Italy,  901. 

to  Malta,  906. 

Syracuse,  United  States,  1564. 
Syria  and  Palestine,  953-982. 

T. 

Taaeinge,  Island  of,  1317. 
Tabor,  725. 
Taesens,  1160. 
Taffiilla,  1276. 
Tai  Cadore,  1173. 
Tain,  Scotland,  130. 

. Hill  of,  467. 

Talvik,  1384. 
Tamworth,  248. 
Tana  Elve,  the,  1387. 
Tancarville,  390. 
Tangier,  1245, 1248. 
Tan  lay,  458,  741. 
Tantura,  980. 
Taormina,  904. 
Tappan,  1553. 
Tarancon,  1229. 
Taranto,  894. 
Tarare,  454. 
Tarascon,  469,  742, 
Tarasp-Bad,  1128. 
Tarbert,  65. 


Tarbes,  428. 

Routes  from,  429. 


Tarbet,  134. 

Tarm,  1337. 

Tarragona,  1264. 

Tarrasa,  1271. 

Tarrytown,  1553. 

Tannton,  269. 

Tavanasa,  1132. 

Taxenbach,  1171. 

Taynuilt,  144. 

Tegernsee,  1174. 

Teigen,  1371. 

Teignmouth,  270. 

Tel  Basta,  950. 

Tel  el  Amarna,  937. 

Telfs,  1158. 

Tellemarken  Route,  the,  1404. 

Tell's  Chapel,  1102. 

Telnaes,  1370, 1426. 

Temple  of  Minerva,  997. 

Templemore,  67. 

Tenby,  276. 

Tepe  Kermen,  1540. 

Tei-lan,  1168. 

Terni,  841. 

Teroen,  1421. 

Terraciua,  872. 

Terranova,  901. 

Tete  Noire,  1054. 

Teufelstein,  and  Devil's  Bridge,  1103. 

Texel,  Island  of,  534  3-8. 

Tharand,  646. 

Thebes,  Greece,  1000. 

Thebes,  Egypt,  939. 

Theodosia,  1541. 

Thernpia,  988. 

Thetford,  232. 

Thing  Vnlla,  1349. 

Thionville,  493. 

Thirhnere,  257. 

Thisted,  1331. 

Thomar,  1289. 

Thomery  Station,  74. 

Thonon,  1045. 

to  Geneva,  1045. 

to  Sixt,  1045. 


Thorn,  600. 
Thorshavn  Island,  1348. 
Thousand  Isles,  the,  1566. 
Threnen,  1380. 
Thun,  1075. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 

Thunsee,  Lake  of,  1177. 
Thiirles,  57. 
Thurn  Defile,  1174. 
Thurso,  131. 
Thusis,  746. 
Tiberias,  974. 
Tideville,  1325. 
Tiflis,  1643. 
Tinosi,  1324. 
Tintern  Abbey,  274. 
Tipperary,  65. 
Tirano,  748, 805, 1163. 
Tiriolo,  892. 
Tirlemont,  522. 
Titlis,  the,  1095. 
Tiverton,  270. 
Tivoli,  868. 
Tjoelsund,  1388. 
Tjiito,  1380. 
Tobermory,  14& 


32 


INDEX. 


.Tocoi,  United  States,  1579. 
ToftemtfWh,  1395. 
Tolhacherfeld,  1180. 
Toledo,  1225. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 

Tolgeu,  1370. 
Tomlevolden,  1400. 
Tonnerre,  457,  741. 
Touset,  1369,  1370. 
Toplitz,  639. 

• Route  from  Paris,  41. 

Tiireboda,  1461, 1464. 
Torgen,  Island  of,  13SO. 
Torghattan,  the,  1380. 
Toronto,  1566. 
Torquay,  271. 
Torrejou  de  Ardos,  1276. 
Torrelavega,  1200. 
Torreverre  Rende,  1335. 
Tortanga,  Gorge  of,  1264. 
Tortosa,  1264. 
Tosa  Falls,  1104. 
Toul,  491. 
Toulon,  473. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 

Toulouse,  420. 

Tours,  404. 

Tours  from  London,  33  ;  from  Paris,  41. 

Skeleton,  xxiv-xxvii. 

Tonrtemagne,  745. 

Traben,  686. 

Trafoi,  1162. 

Tralee,  62. 

Tramagal,  1279. 

Trani,  824. 

Trano,  1382. 

Trapani,  900. 

Tratzberg,  Castle  of,  1145. 

Treib,  1102. 

Trellebors,  1470. 

Trenkwald,  1184. 

Trent,  Italy,  749, 1155. 

-Tyrol,  1155. 

Trenton  Falls,  1557, 1564. 
Tresenda,  1164. 
Treves,  678. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 

Triberg,  672. 
Trientj  1055. 
Trieste,  731. 

Route  from  London,  33,  from  Paris,  41. 

Trifthorn,  the,  1059. 

Tripoli,  981. 

Tripolitza,  1000. 

Trisaet,  1426. 

Trogeu,  1124. 

Troitzkoi  Monastery,  1532. 

Trollhatta,  Falls  of,  1402. 

Tromso,  1379,  1383. 

Tromsosund,  the,  1383. 

Trondhjem,  1372-1376, 1392. 

Trons,  1132. 

Troon,  127. 

Trostberg,  Castle  of,  1153. 

Troutbeck,  256. 

Trouville,  393. 

Troy,  United  States,  1556. 

Troyes,  479. 

Truckee,  1571. 

Trysil  District,  1369. 

Tsarkotf  Selo,  Palace  of,  1518. 

Tnnm,  78. 

Tubingen,  669. 


I  Tudela,  1276. 
Tuf,  1404. 
Tumba,  1444. 
Tuubridge  Wells,  226. 
Tune  i  Vang,  1401. 
Turbia,  742. 
Turin :  Hotels,  Churches,  Manufactures,  otc- 

792-796. 

to  Aosta,  796. 

to  Genoa.  796. 

to  Nice,  796,  797. 

Route  from  London,  33;   from  Paris. 

41. 

Turkey  and  Greece,  983-1002. 
Tnrrif,  135. 
Tvindehoug,  1423. 
Tvinden  i  Yos,  1411. 
Tyndrum,  144. 
Tyre,  979. 
Tyrol,  1141-1184. 

Castle  of,  1167. 


Tyskestranden,  1405. 
Tyven  Mountain,  the,  1385. 

U. 

Ubeda,  1231. 
Uckneld,  227  1-3. 
Ucles,  1229. 
Uddevalla,  1474. 
Uetliberg,  10S4. 
Uldefos  Falls,  1429. 
Ulefos,  142C. 
Ullerslev,  1314. 
Ulm,  664. 

to  Friedrichshafen,668. 

to  Schaffhausen,  669. 

to  Stuttgart,  G64. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 

Ulricehamn,  1467. 

Ulsaker,  1404. 

Ulstrup,  132S. 

Ulswater,  Lake,  259. 

Ulverston,  259. 

Ulvik,1421. 

Umhausen,  1182. 

United  States,  1544-1557, 1559-1565, 1567-157& 

Unspuuuen,  Castle  of,  1088. 

Unsre  Fran,  1183. 

Unterau,  1152. 

Unterschachen,  1134. 

Upsala,  1477. 

Uri,  Lake  of,  1102. 

Utah,  1570. 

Utica.  1564. 

Utrecht,  534  5-8. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 


Utrera,  1240. 
Uznach,  1117. 


V. 


Vadheim,  1415. 
Vadolanno,  1231. 
Vadsii,  1379,  1385, 1388. 
Vaerdalsoren,  13S9. 
Vaerii,  13S2. 
Vahrn,  Baths  of,  1152. 
Val  Paraiso,  1232. 
Val  Topa,  1114. 
Valdepenas,  1231. 
Valders  Route,  the,  1399. 
Valdersund,  1379. 
Valence,  468,  742. 
Valencia,  1260. 


INDEX. 


Valencia .  Route  from  Paris,  41. 
Valenciennes,  498. 
Valenza,  797. 
Valctta,  910. 
Valladolia,  1207. 

Route  from  Paris,  41, 

Valle,  1417. 

Vallee  du  Lys,  426. 

Vallejo,  United  States,  1571. 

Valli>,  1343. 

Vallorbe,  1116. 

Valray,  493. 

Valognes,  397. 

Valpellina,  1057. 

Valsain,  1-224. 

Vamdrup,  1313. 

Van  nes,  406. 

Vanzone,  1066, 

Varde,  1337. 

Vardii,  1387. 

Varello,  791. 

Varese,  787. 

Varna,  73S. 

Route  from  Paris,  41. 

Vasto,  823. 

Vedback,  1319. 

Vegaellina,  120J. 

Veii,  869. 

Veile,  1326. 

Veirhf.i  Hill,  1340. 

Velaen,  534  2-8. 

Vemb,  1337. 

Vbmmetofte,  1344, 

Venus,  1173. 

Vendas  Novas,  12SS. 

Venetia,  or  Venice,  757. 

Venice:     Hotels,  Situation,   Grand    Canal, 

Gondolas,     Manufactures,      Government, 

Churches,  etc.,  757-769,  1169,  1173. 
Venice  to  Bologna,  769. 

to  Brindisi,  769. 

to  London,  769. 

to  Milan,  769,  770, 

— . —  to  Padua,  77«. 

to  Paris,  769. 

to  Trieste,  769, 

to  Turin,  769. 

to  Verona,  769. 

Koute  from  London,  33 ;  from  Paris, 

41. 

Venningbond  Bay,  1317. 
Vent,  1183. 

Venta  de  Qnesada,  1231, 
Ventimiglia,  742.  80S. 
Ventnor,  224, 
Verblungnaes,  1397. 
Vercelli,  792,  797. 
Verdrieteges'  Hook,  1553, 
Verdun,  493. 
Vergara,  1196. 
Vermedalsfos  Palls,  1397. 
Vernayaz,  1112. 
Verona:  Hotels,  Fortifications,  etc.,  773-778, 

1157, 116S. 

to  Innsprnck.  7^7. 

to  Milan,  777. 

to  Modena,  805. 

to  Munich,  777. 

to  Venice,  777. 

Rome  from  Paris,  41. 

Verplanck's  Point,  1553. 
Verres,  796. 
Versailles,  3TT. 


Verviers,  517. 
Vesonl,  479. 

Vesteraalen  Islands,  the,  1382. 
Vesteras,  1483. 
Ve.-tcT-kjernige,  1345. 
Vestervig,  1331. 
Vestfossen,  1406. 
Vesuvius,  884. 
Vettisfoe  Falls,  1406. 
Vevay,  1041. 

Route  from  Paris,  42. 


Viborg,  1336. 
Vicenza,  772. 

Route  from  Paris,  42. 


Vich,  1270. 

Vichy:  Hotels,  449;  Springs,  Diseases,  New 

Casino,  450;  Park,  Physician*.  Excursion*. 

451. 
Vichy  to  Switzerland,  451. 

Route  from  London,  33;  from  Paris, 


42. 

Vienna:  Hotels,  708;  History,  Promenades, 
Palaces,  People,  Public  Buildings,  Ca- 
thedral of  St.  Stephen,  709;  Churches, 
Chnrch  of  the  Angnstines,  Canova's  Monu- 
ment of  the  Archduchess  Christine,  Church 
of  th«  Capuchins,  Coffin  of  Napoleon  II., 
Carmelite  Church,  Imperial  Palace,  710; 
Cabinet  of  Antiquities,  Cabinet  of  Minerals, 
Museum  of  Natural  History,  Schatzkam- 
mer  or  Imperial  Jewel-office,  Coach-house, 
Riding-school,  Volksgarten,  Hofgarten,  711; 
Picture  -  gallery,  712-714  ;  Ambras  Cojlec- 
tion,  Armor,  714 ;  Esterhazy  Gallery,  Prince 
Lichtenstein's  Palace,  Counts  Czernin, 
Schiinbrunn,  Harrach,  and  Lemberg's  Col- 
lections of  Pictures,  Imperial  Arsenal.  Uni- 
versity, General  Hospital,  Lying-in  Hospi- 
tal, 715 ;  Theatres,  716 ;  Meerschaums,  Man- 
ufactures, Carriages,  Baggage,  Passports, 
Cafes,  Vatet  de  Place,  Opera-glasses,  Lace, 
and  Bohemian  Glass,  716,  717. 

Vienna  to  Baden  Warm  Springs,  718. 

to  Dresden,  719,  724. 

to  Kalenberg,  718. 

to  Klosterneuburg,  713. 

to  Laxenburg,  718. 

to  Leopoldsburg,  718. 

to  Modling,  718. 

to  Munich,  726. 

to  Pesth,  717,  739. 

. to  Prague,  725. 

to  Schonbrunu,  717. 

to  Trieste,  730,  750. 

to  Trieste,  via  Semmering  Railway, 

to  Venice  direct,  730,  738. 

Route  from  London,  35 ;  from  Paris, 

42. 

Vienne,  467,  741. 
Viesch,  1114. 
Vigels  Fjeld.  1371. 
Vigevano,  797. 
Vii;o,  1205. 
Vik,  1415,  1421. 
Viken,  the,  1434. 
Viker  Church,  the,  1427. 
Vikersnud,  1403. 
Vikholmen,  13S1. 
Viko,  1404. 
Vilches,  1231. 
Villa  Real,  1264. 
Villach,  1152, 1188. 


750. 


34 

Vlllach  to  Brixen,  560. 

Villafranca,  1203, 1266, 1279. 

Villalpraudo,  1208. 

Villanueva  de  la  Serena,  1278. 

Villard,  1111. 

Villaviciosa,  1202. 

Villeneure,  745, 1044. 

Villeperdne,  407. 

Villers-sur-Mer,  393. 

Villingen,  672. 

Vilpian,1168. 

Vilvorde,  512. 

Vincennes,  384. 

Vineroz,  1264. 

Vingaker,  1470. 

Vingei  Vos,  1411. 

Virginia  City,  1570. 

Vispach,  745r  r059r  1113L. 

Vissoye,  1059. 

Vittofia,  1196. 

Vitznan,  1101. 

Vivalvaro,  1270. 

Vlaardingen,  f>27. 

Voergaard  Manor,  1330S. 

Voersaa  River,  1330. 

Vogelenzangr533. 

Voiron,  470. 

Volderau,  1183. 

Volterra,  843. 

Voltri,  743v 

Voorn,  Castle- of,  527. 

Vordingborg,  1341. 

Voringsfo8,1421. 

Vossevangen,  1411, 1414. 

Vostizza,  998. 

Vongy,  1046. 

VuflJens,  Chateau  of,  103»_ 

W. 

Wadenswyl,  1T17, 1134. 
Wadi  Haifa,  944. 
Wadstenar14*4,  1463. 
Waidbruck,  1179. 
Waidring,  It76. 
Waldhauser,  1131. 
Waldshnt,  1079. 
Wales,  273-881. 

the  TOOT  of,  273V 

Walla,  1444. 
Wallenstadt,  1118. 
Walschenofen,  1163. 
Warberg,  1473. 
Warburg,  619. 
Wareham,  28». 
Warmbrunn,  724. 
Warmoml,  533. 
Warrenpoint,  96. 
Warsaw,  612. 

Route  from  London,  3K. 

Wartofta,  1467. 
Warwick,  244. 
Wasen,  1103. 
Washington,  1576. 
Waterford,  66. 
Waterloo,  511. 
Wauwyl,  1077. 
Weegis  1101. 
Weiherbnrg,  1149. 
Weimar,  622. 

to  Erfurt,  622. 

Weissnch,  Valley  of,  1178. 
Weissbad,  1124. 
Weissenburg,  676. 
WeisseufeU,  621. 


INDEX. 


Weissenstein,  the,  1068. 

Weispenthurm,  683. 

Welfeustein,  Castle  of,  1151. 

Wells,  233. 

Welraick,  687. 

Wels,  727. 

Wenern,  Lake,  1463. 

Wenersborg,  1463. 

Wernamo,  1473. 

Wesel,  5S1. 

We.«en,  756. 

West  Point,  1554. 

West  Troy,  United  States,  1556. 

\Vestervik,  1481. 

VVeston-super-Mare,  269. 

\Vestport,  S5. 

Wetterhorn,  the,  1091. 

Wetteru,  Lake,  14t>4. 

Wexford,  73. 

Weiio,  1472. 

Weymouth,  287. 

White  MDUiitains,  1559. 

Whitehiiven,  260. 

Wiborg,  14S4. 

Wick,  130. 

Wicklow,  74. 

Wiesbaden,  «93;  Ronte  from  London,  33. 

Wiesberg,  Castle  of,  1166. 

Wiesen,  1137. 

Wi^an.250. 

Wight,  the  Isle  of:  Tours  in,  etc.,  222-22*. 

Wildbad,  703. 

Route  from  London,  33. 


Wildlmd-Gastein,  1180. 
Wildegg  Castle,  1078. 
Wildhans,  1133. 
Wildstruhel,  the,  1109. 
Wilhelmshafen,  603. 
Willerusoord,  5343-8. 
Wiltan,1150. 
Wimbonie,  2S6. 
Winchester,  285. 
Wiudermere,  253. 

Windsor,  England,  217 ;  Eton  College,  248. 
Canada,  1567. 


Winkel,  690. 
Winklern,1180. 
Wiiiterthur,  1082. 
Wisby,  14S1. 
Wishina:  Gate,  the,  255. 
Wislanda.  1440. 
Wittenberg,  616. 
Wolverhainptou,  245. 
Woodlawn,  83. 


Worcester,  England,  265. 
United  States,  1563. 


Wore!,  1145. 
Workington,  261. 
Worms,  677. 
Worsaaes  Oe,  1343. 
Worth,  675. 
Worthing,  221. 
Wrexham,  277. 
Wurremberg,  664. 
VVurzburg.  667 

to  Furth,  643. 


Yale  College,  1564. 
Yalta,  1541. 
Yarmouth,  231. 


INDEX. 


Yeni  Keni,  988. 
Tester  House,  164. 

York,  234 ;  Marston  Moor,  Lowton,  235. 
to  London,  via  Bedford,  Derby,  Shef- 
field, etc.,  234. 
Yongbal,  66. 

Yosemite  Valley,  the,  1572. 
Ypres,  522. 
Ystad,  1470. 
Yverdon,  1067. 

Z. 

Zaleh,  979. 
Zamora,  1209. 
Zebdany,  977. 
Zell,  1169. 
Zerknitz,  Lake  of,  731. 


Zerraatt,  1053, 10«1. 

Zeveuaar,  534  7-8. 

Zillerthal,  1151. 

Zirl,  1158. 

Zoflngen,  1077. 

Zng,  1068. 

Ziirpich,  679. 

Zunch  :  Hotel?,  Cathedral,  etc.,  1083, 1084. 

Route  from  London,  33  ;  from  Paris.  42. 


Zussow,  605. 
Zutphen,  534  6-8. 
Zuz,  1128. 
Zweibriicken,  677. 
Zweieimmen,  1109. 
Zwickau,  C47. 
Zwieselstein,  1182. 
Zwolle,  534  4-«. 


L,  0 1ST  D  O  3ST. 


Messrs. 

Have  the  honor  to  solicit  a  visit  from  the  Beau  Monde,  to  inspect  a  variety  of 

ELEGANT  SILK  COSTUMES, 

MANTLES, 
ARTISTIC   MILLINERY,  HATS, 

And  every  variety  in  Dress,  specially  selected  in  Paris  from  the  best  Artistes,  and 
representing  the  correct 

FASHIONS    OF    THE    SEASON. 


The  following  Extract  from  an  American  Paper  is  a  pleasing  testimony  to  the 
system  of  Business  adopted  at  this  House : 

"  We  visited  during  our  sojourn  in  London  last 
year,  the  Warehouse  of  Messrs.  Jay,  the  most  noted 
Establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  In  looking 
through  its  numerous  Departments,  we  were  able  to 
appreciate  the  true  cause  of  the  distinguished  success 
which  has  attended  the  Establishment  for  many  years. 

"Messrs.  Jay  receive  large  supplies  of  Costumes 
and  Millinery  direct  from  the  best  Houses  in  Paris, 
and  they  are  sold  at  much  more  moderate  prices  than 
Ladies  can  procure  them  on  the  Continent.  We  take 
pleasure  in  directing  the  attention  of  our  fair  readers 
to  this  time-honored  establishment,  where  we  are  sure 
they  will  be  honestly  and  loyally  dealt  with? 


THE  LONDON  GENERAL  MOURNING  WAREHOUSE, 

243, 245, 247, 249, 251,  &  253  Repnt  Street,  ¥. 


LONDON. 


THE  MIDLAND  GRAND  HOTEL, 

ST.    PANCRAS     STATION. 


The  Largest  and  Finest  Hotel  in  Die  Kingdom. 

An  exceptionally  Healthy  and  most  desirable  Residence 
for  Visitors  to  London. 

BEDROOMS  FROM  2s.  6d.  PER  DAY,  and  all  other  Charges 
Equally  Moderate. 


R.  ETZENSBERGER,  Manager. 

Convenient  Omnibus  Service  between  the  Hotel,  the  West  End,  Trafalgar 
Square,  Charing  Cross,  and  the  Strand ;  Pare  3d. 

Intending  visitors  may  also  order  the  Company's  one-horse  omnibuses  to  meet 
them  on  arrival  at  any  London  Terminus,  saving  much  trouble,  delay,  and  expense. 

NOTICE. -EXCELLENT  COFFEE. 

ETZENSBERGER'S  PATENT  COFFEE  AND  TEA  FILTERS,  for  bars,  hotels,  steamships, 
&c.,  are  now  used  on  all  the  leading  steamship  lines  and  in  first-class  hotels.  For  particulars, 
apply  to  R.  ETZENSBERGEK  &  CO., 

13  St.  Andrew's  Street,  Holborn  Cirrus.  LONDON,  R.  ('..  and  at 

THE    MIDLAND    GRAND    HOTEL.,    LONDON. 
2 


LONDON. 


BEXNETT 

&C9 

Sackville  Street 


LINCOLN,  BE1ETU  CO. 


To  the  Royal  Family.  * 


GENTLEMEN'S  HATS 

IN  EVERY  VARIETY. 

LADIES'  VELVET  NAPPED  RIDING  AND  FELT  HATS. 

I  Sackville  St.  and  40  Piccadilly,  London,  W. 

CHARLES  FRODSHAM  &  CO., 
84  Strand,  LONDON, 

By  appointment  to  Her  Majesty, 

WATCH,    CLOCK, 

A1TD      \ 

CHRONOMETER  MAKERS 

To  the  Queen,  and  their  Royal  Highnesses 

the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales. 


Gold  Medal  at  the  Parit  exhibition  of  1866. 

Gold  Medal,  First  Class,  Naples,  1871. 

Gold  Medal  of  the  First  Order,  from  the 
Emperor  of  Russia,  for  services  rendered  to 
the  Great  Russian  Survey. 

WATCHES,  CHRONOM- 
ETERS, and  CLOCKS,  of 
every  description,  from  the  sim- 
plest and  least  expensive  to  the 
most  complicated. 

ONLY  PLACE  OF  BUSINESS, 

84  STEAND,  LONDON, 

The  public  are  respectfully  cautioned  against  numerous  forgeries  of  our  name  and  trade  marks. 

3 


MANUFACTURERS. 


Glass  Dinner  Services, 
Glass  Dessert  Services, 
Glass  Table  Decorations, 
Glass  Flower  Vases, 
Glass  Table  Lamps, 
Glass  Lustres  &  Wall  Lights, 
Glass  and  Metal  Chandeliers, 


China  Dessert  Services, 
China  Dinner  Services, 
China  Breakfast  Services, 
China  Tea  Services, 
China  Vases, 

China  and  Parian  Groups, 
China  Ornaments, 


Sole  Agents  for  the  Venice  &  Murano  Glass  Co. 


Mess,  Export,  and  Furnishing  Orders  promptly  ex- 
ecuted.    Estimates  Free, 


"The  visitor  to  London  who  leaves  without  seeing 

o 

the  show-rooms  of  Messrs.  Osier  has  missed  one  of  the 
sights  of  the  metropolis." — Vide  "  Land  and  Water." 


BIRMINGHAM :  MANUFACTORY  AND  SHOW-ROOMS,  BROAD  ST, 
LONDON:  Show-Rooms,  100  (Mord  Street,  W, 

4 


THiK 


Hyde  Park  Corner,  LONDON. 


This  magnificent  Hotel,  occupying  one  of  the  most  cheerful,  healthy,  »nd  pleasant  liUs  in  London— overlooking 
Hyde  Park,  Rotten  Row,  and  the  Serpentine— is  conducted  at  such  a  reduced  tariff  us  to  render  it  the  cheapest  first-claw 
Hotel  in  London.  It  comprises  numerous  Suite*  of  Apartments,  a  Spacious  and  Elegant  Coffee-Room,  a  Drawing-Room 
overlooking  the  Park,  with  Reading-Room  adjoining,  a  Srnoking-Room,  &c.  The  Wine*  and  Cuisine  are  of  the  bait. 

Tariffs  will  be  forwarded  on  application  to  the  Manager.    There  it  an  Ascending-Room  to  every  floor. 


LONDON. 


ST.  JAMES'S  HOTEL, 

Corner  of  Berkeley  Street,  Piccadilly, 

This  First-Class  Hotel,  which  commands  a  view  of  the  Green  Park 

and  Buckingham  Palace,  has  now  the  advantage  of  a  Patent 

Safety  Lift  communicating  with  every  floor. 

The  clientele  of  the  Hotel  is  of  the  best  class,  and  the  Apartments  for  Families 
are  exceptionally  convenient  and  good.  The  Cuisine  is  of  the  best,  and  includes 
the  HOUSE  DINNERS,  from  seven  o'clock  P.M.,  at  7s.  6d.  and  lOs.  6d.  per 
head,  served  at  separate  tables.  Other  Dinners  and  Luncheons  supplied  at  a 
moment's  notice  a  la  carte,  and  in  the  coffee-room  or  private  rooms,  as  may  be  pre- 
ferred. The  Wines  are  furnished  by  the  well  known  houses  of  CHRISTOPHER  &  Co. 
and  TAXQUKRAY  &  Co.,  which  will  be  a  sufficient  guarantee  that  they  are  of  the 
best  possible  vintages. 

WEDDING  BREAKFASTS  PROVIDED. 

Ittanag;er,   'I  r.  «•.   r  \  iii'K. 

Chef  de  <  iiUiiic.  IV.  C.  HIGOZZI  (formerly  Chef  under  FRANC ATKI.I.H. 

3 


LOISTDOIST. 


J.  ALLISON  &  CO., 

SILK  MERCERS, 

LINEN  DRAPERS,  &c, 

It  TTnnoo  OQQ   O^fl  onfl  0^0  PonroTit  Qtroot 
I  flUUM,  Zoo,  Z4U,  dllli  Z4Z  ntlpill  oQoul, 


And  Carriage  Entrance,  26  and  27  Argyll  Street, 

LONDON,  W. 


DEPARTMENTS. 

Silks.  Dress  Trimmings.  Gloves. 

Velvets.  Ball  and  Evening  Hosiery. 

Ribbons.  Dresses.  Shawls. 

Lace.  Dress-Making.  Parasols. 

Cloaks.  Costumes.  Haberdashery. 

Furs.  Dress  Materials.  Millinery. 
Household  Linen. 

|  FAMILY  MOURNING  IN  ALL  ITS  BBAJ55 

***  Close  at  Two  o'clock  on  Saturdays  all  the  year  round. 

:    SIR    S-A-MTJKL    SCOTT  <fe 


6 


LONDON. 


BRISTOL  HOTEL. 

This  large  Family  Hotel,  situated  between  Bond  Street  and  Regent  Street, 

near  Piccadilly,  is  newly  established,  and  furnished  in  the  Continental  style,  with 
every  possible  comfort  and  modern  improvement. 

First  -class  Restaurant,  with  Breakfasts  and   Dinners  d  la  Parisienne.     Lift, 
Telephone,  &c. 

Proprietor,  Mr.  DIETTE,  from  Hotel  Scribe,  Paris. 

LIMERICK.  ~~ 


This  neat  Hotel  has  been  prepared  with  great  care  and  at  considerable  expense,  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  ladies  and  gentlemen  visiting  Limerick. 

The  Commercial-  Room  (and  Waiting-  Room  attached),  the  Indies'  Coffee  -Room,  and  the 
Gentlemen's  Codec-Room  will  stand  comparison  with  any  of  the  kind  in  Ireland. 

The  GLESTWORTH  claims  the  support  of  the  general  public  for  the  superiority  of  its  accom- 
modation in  every  Department,  including  Sitting  -Rooms,  Bed  -Rooms,  Bath  -Rooms  (Hot  and 
Cold  Water),  &c.,  &c. 

The  Wines  and  Liquors  have  been  selected  with  the  greatest  care. 

The  GLENTWORTH  is  the  nearest  Hotel  in  the  City  to  the  Railway  Station,  Banks,  Steamboat 
Offices,  Telegraph  and  Post  Office,  and  to  all  Public  Places  of  Amusement. 

ff  Omnibus  attends  the  arrival  of  all  Trains  and  Steamers.  Porter  attends  the  Night  Mails. 
P.  KEN\  A,  Proprietor,  14,  15,  and  16  (i  lent  worth  Street,  Limerick. 

TflRBET  HOTEL,  LOCHLOMOND. 

(Opposite  Ben-Lomond), 

IS  THE 

LARGEST  HOTEL  ON  THE  LAKE, 

And  commands  the  best  view  of  Ben-Lomond. 


A.  H.  MAOPHEBSON,  Proprietor. 


LONDON.      ASPREY    &    SONS. 

ENGLISH  DRESSING  CASES,  TRAVELLING  BAGS, 

Writing  Cases,  Pocket-Books.  Leather   Goods,  Fancy  Novelties,  and 
ARTICLES  de  VERTU  and  de  LUXE,  Stationery,  &c. 

166  Bond  St.  and  22  Albemarle  St. 

EXCHANGE  OFFICE. -HANDS  &  CO. 

16  Strand,  Charing  Cross  Railway  Station  Gateway, 
LONDON,    W.    C. 

Foreign  Bank-note.*,  Gold,  Obligations,  and  Drafts  cashed  on  presentation. 

7 


163    Regent    Street, 
LONDON. 


AT  THIS  ESTABLISHMENT  WILL  BE  FOUND  AN  IMMENSE 
AND  SUPERB  VARIETY  OF 

Seal-skin  Sacques,  Dolmans,  and 
JYewmarket    Coats, 

WHICH    FOR    PERFECTION     OF    SHAPE    AND    QUALITY 
CANNOT   BE    SURPASSED. 

163    Regent    Street,   London. 

TWO  DOORS  FROM  NEW  BURLINGTON  STREET. 


HARPER'S   PERIODICALS. 

•  UflVI 

Per  Year : 

HARPER'S   MAGAZINE $4  00 

HARPER'S  WEEKLY 4  00 

HARPER'S  BAZAR 400 

HARPER'S  YOUNG   PEOPLE 2  00 

HARPER'S    FRANKLIN    SQUARE    LIBRARY,  One 

Number  each  week  for  One  Year 10  00 

Postage  Free  to  all  Subscribers  in  the  United  States  or  Canada. 


HARPER'S  FRANKLIN  SQUARE  LIBRARY  :  a  weekly  publication, 
containing  works  of  Travel,  Biography,  History,  Fiction,  and  Poetry,  at 
prices  ranging  from  10  to  25  cents  per  number.  Full  list  of  Harper's 
Franklin  Square  Library  will  be  furnished  gratuitously  on  application  to 
HARPER  &  BROTHERS.  

Remittances  should  be  made  by  Post-Office  Money  Order  or  Draft,  to 
avoid  risk  of  loss.     Address 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  Franklin  Square,  N.  Y. 

HARPER'S  CATALOGUE,  of  between  three  and  four  thousand  vol- 
umes, mailed  on  receipt  of  Ten  Cents  in  Postage  Stamps. 

8 


The  Great  Western  Railway  Co,, 

OF   ENGLAND, 

Issue  Tickets  between  Liverpool,  Birkenhead,   Holyhead,  &c.,  via   Chetter,  to 
London  and  the  South  of  England  by  three  routes,  viz. : 

1.  THE  KOYAL  (OXFORD)  ROUTE  through  Chester  and  the  Valley  of 
the  Dee,  the  Vale  of  Llangollen,  Shrewsbury,  Birmingham,  Warwick,  Leamington 
(for  Strut  ford-on- Avon  and  Kenilworth;.  Oxford,  Woodstock,  Reading,  and  Slough 
(Tor  Windsor — the  route  taken  by  Her  Majesty  the  Queen  in  traveling  between 
Windsor  and  Balmoral). 

Passengers  holding  Through  Tickets  may  break  their  journey  at  Warwick  or 
Leamington,  to  visit  Stratfurd-on-Avon  and  Kenilworth,  and  at  Oxford  to  visit  the 
Colleges,  &c. 

2.  THE  WORCESTER   ROUTE  from  Chester  to  Shrewsbury,  and  thence 
through  the  Severn  Valley.  Worcester,  Evesham,  Honeybourne  (for  Stratford-on- 
Avon),  Oxford,  Reading,  and  Slough  (for  Windsor). 

3.  THE   HEREFORD   AND    GLOUCESTER   ROUTE   from   Chester   to 
Shrewsbury,  through  Ludlow,  Hereford,  Ross,  the  Valley  of  the  Wye,  Gloucester 
(for  Cheltenham),  the  Stroud  Valley.  Reading,  and  Slough  (for  Windsor). 

At  Gloucester,  the  line,  running  through  the  whole  of  South  Wales,  and  form- 
ing the  direct  route  between  London  ami  the  South  of  Ireland,  the  Lakes  of  Kil- 
larney,  &c.,  branches  out  of  the  main  line. 

Saloon  and  Family  Carriages  (reserved;  may  be  obtained  at  24  hours'  notice, 
for  parties  of  not  less  than  eight  persons. 

Tickets  may  be  obtained  at  the  Great  Western  Office,  James  Street,  Liverpool, 
or  on  board  the  Railway  Boats  plying  between  the  Liverpool  Landing  Stage  and 
Birkenhead. 

Passengers  should  be  careful  to  ask  for  "Great  Western  Tickets." 


During  the  Summer  months,  Tourist  Tickets  (available  for  2  months)are  issned, 
enabling  the  holders  to  break  their  journey  at  all  places  of  interest,  at  a  small  in- 
crease upon  the  ordinary  fares;  also,  Tickets  for  "Circular  Tours"  by  Rail  and 
Coach  through  the  most  picturesque  parts  of  Wales  (North  and  South). 

Programmes  of  the  arrangements  are  published  monthly,  and  may  be  obtained 
at  any  station  or  from  the  undersigned. 


To  the  Tourist  and  the  Antiquarian  the  Great  Western  Railway  possesses  feat- 
ures of  interest  unequaled  by  any  other  Railway  in  the  United  Kingdom.  It  af- 
fords convenient  and,  in  many  instances,  the  only  Railway  access  to  places  sought 
after  from  the  historical  associations  connected  with  them,  such  as  Chester,  Shrews- 
bury (with  Uriconium,  the  ancient  Roman  city  and  battle-field,  within  an  easy  ride), 
Warwick,  Stratford-on-Avon,  Kenilworth,  Oxford,  Worcester,  Ludlow,  Hereford, 
Woodstock,  Windsor,  and  many  other  places  of  note,  all  reached  by  the  Great 
Western  route  ;  while  the  scenery  of  North  and  South  Wales,  the  Valley  of  the 
Wye,  &c.,  through  which  the  Railway  passes,  is  unsurpassed  in  Great  Britain. 


Time-Books,  Maps,  &c..  are  supplied  to  the  Steamships  running  between  En- 
gland and  America,  and  they  will  be  forwarded,  free  of  charge,  to  any  part  of 
America,  to  all  persons  applying  for  the  same  to  the  undersigned,  of  whom  full 
particulars  as  to  trains,  fares,  and  other  arrangements  may  be  obtained. 

J.  GRIERSON,  General  Manager. 
PADI>I>T,TON  STATION.  LONDON. 


London  &  North-Western  Railway  of  England. 

SHORTEST  AND  MOST  DIRECT  ROUTE  BETWEEN 
LIVEKPOOL  (Lime  St.  Station)  and  LONDON  (Euston  Station). 

Express  Trains  in  4.V  Hours— Thirteen  Expresses  each  Week  Day. 

LIVERPOOL    AND     GLASGOW. 

Express  Serrices  in  Six  Hours. 

DRAWING-ROOM  SALOON  CARRIAGES,  without  Extra  Charge. 

specially  appointed  for  the  convenience  of  First-Class  Passengers,  are  attached  to  the  DAY  EX- 
PRESS TRAINS  between  Liverpool  and  London.  The  Saloons  are  furnished  with 
every  modern  convenience,  separate  apartments  for  Family  Parties,  a  boudoir  for  Ladies,  and 
compartments  for  Smokers.  A  Special  Conductor  accompanies  each  Train. 

ORDINARY  SALOON  CARRIAGES  are  also  run  daily  on  the  principal  Express 
Trains  from  Liverpool  to  Ixmdon,  for  the  accommodation  of  First-Class  Passengers.  Ladies  may 
travel  in  specially  reserved  compartments. 

SIMILAR  CARRIAGES,  on  receipt  of  a  telegram  from  Queenstown.  addressed  to  the  Station  Master, 
Lime  Street,  Liverpool,  or  on  personal  application  to  the  L.  &  N.  W.  Co. 's  representative  on  arrival 
at  the  Landing  Stage,  will  be  attached  to  any  of  the  Through  Trains  from  Liverpool  for  parties  of 
Seven  First-Class  Passengers  and  upwards,  without  extra  charge.  COMPARTMENTS  can  be  reserved 
for  Four  First  or  Six  Second  Class  Passengers. 

SLEEPING  CARS  are  run  daily  by  the  train  leaving  Lime  Street  at  11.10  P.M.  (10.45 
P.M.  on  Sundays),  and  from  London  by  the  train  leaving  at  12  midnight.  Extra  charge,  5s.  (in 
addition  to  the  ordinary  first-class  fare)  for  each  berth  occupied. 

BAGGAGE. — The  Station  Master  at  Lime  Street  Station,  Liverpool,  will  make  arrange- 
ments for  sending  on  to  the  London  Terminus  at  Euston  Station,  or  to  the  Company's  West  End 
Office,  Golden  Cross,  Charing  Cross,  or  to  the  Depot  of  the  American  Exchange,  Strand,  any 
articles  of  Baggage  that  passengers  adopting  the  London  &  North- Western  Line  may  desire  to  be 
forwarded  to  await  their  arrival  or  order. 

WEIGHT  ALLOWED  FREK  OF  CHARGE  :— First  Class,  120  Ibs. ;  Second  Class,  100  Ibs. ;  Third  Class, 
60  Ibs.  For  a  charge  of  fid.  per  package,  baggage  can  be  registered  at  Lime  Street  Station  and 
delivered  at  any  g'ven  address  (within  the  usual  delivery  radius;  beyond,  3d.  extra)  in  London, 
Leicester,  Birmingham,  Manchester,  and  Liverpool. 

..  i  ,,Vw  .  f  Liverpool  to  London,  First  Class,  2!>/    ;  Second  Class,  21/9;  Third  Class,  16/6. 
> '  I  Liverpool  to  Glasgow,  First  Class,  38/- ;  Second  Class,  33/3 ;  Third  Class,  15. 

Special  Tickets  are  issued  through  to  London,  without  extra  charge,  allowing  passengers  to 
break  the  journey  at  Chester,  Nuneaton.  and  at  Rugby,  to  enable  them  to  visit  Leamington, 
Warwick,  Kenilworth,  Stratford-on- Avon,  &c.  Ten  days  are  allowed  for  the  com- 
pletion of  the  journey  between  Liverpool  and  London. 

A  MAGNIFICKNT  HOTKL,  "The  North-Tfestern,"  specially  appointed 
for  the  convenience  of  American  travellers— containing  upwards  of  3OO 
Bedrooms,  with  spacious  Coffee,  Drawing,  Reading.  Writing,  Billiard,  and 
Smoking  Kooms,  and  replete  with  every  accommodation  -  adjoins  the 
Lime  Street  terminus. 

CON  TINE  NT  A.  I.,    TRAVKI... 

THROUGH  TICKETS  for  the  railway  journey  to  LONDON,  and  to  PARIS  and  all  parts  of 

TK«  CONTINENT,  can  be  obtained  at  the  offices  of  the  Company's  Continental  Tourist  Agents,  Messrs.  Gizi  A  SON 
S60  Washington  Street,  Boston  ,  and  136  St.  James1  Street,  Montreal.  Passengers  booking  to  Liverpool  only  in  the 
8rst  instance  may  obtain  similar  Through  Tickets  at  the  I-i.ne  Street  Station.  Full  informant!  as  to  Continental 
Tours  may  be  obtained  of  Mr.  THOMAS  LOWTO*,  l.ime  Street  Station,  and  of  Messrs  GAIK  *  SON,  143  Strand,  London. 
The  Steamship  Companies'  Orders  for  tickets  to  Paris  will  be  exchanged  at  Lime  St.  Station. 

Omnibuses  from  the  LiTerpool  Docks  to  the  Lime  Street  Station.-l  pon  rece.pt  of  a  tele- 

*ram  from  Queenstnwn,  the  Station  Master  at  Lime  Street  Station  will  arrange  to  send  Omnibuses  to  meet  the 
steamer  on  arrival  in  the  Pocks  at  Liverpool,  to  convey  passengers  to  the  North-Western  Hotel  or  Lime  hi 

SUtThe  Comirany'parovidCehSMALL  OMNIBUSES,  capable  of  carrying  six  persons  inside  and  two  outside,  with  the 
usual  quantity  ofbimin,  to  meet  the  EXPRESS  TRAIXS  AT  EUSTOS  STATION,  when  previously  ordeird      A  tel, 
gram  ordering  nn  Omnibus  to  meet  any  train  will  be  forwarded  to  London  on  application  to  tin-  Station  Master  at 
Lime  Street  Station,  Liverpool,  or  at  any  station  en  routt,  tree  of  charge.    The  charge  for  the  uae  of  an  Ommbu.  is 

|so  nin'atTeViuenTintcrva&'between  EuSTOX  and  the  TERMINI  of  the  London  Railways  in 
with  the  Co 


...^cifving  any  requirement*  as  to  travelling  accommodatiu 

L.  j;  TROWBRIDGE,  3  Broadway.  New  York. 

A  reoresentntive  nf  the  London  and  North-Western  Railway  Company  will  meet  passengers  on  their  arrival  at 
the  I  amlintr  Staee  Liverpool,  to  give  information  as  to  trains,  or  take  onlere  for  Saloon  Carriages,  &c.  l-ull  par- 
ticular, can  also  be  obtained  from  MR.  .TAMES  SHAW.  District  Superintendent  Lime  Street  Station,  UwrnoW; 
MR.  .1.  B.  LOVELAND,  American  Passenger  Agent,  North  Western  Hotel,  Lime  Street,  Liverpool;  and  ME.  G.  F. 
NEELE.  Superintendent  of  the  Line.  Euston  Station,  London.  Vrvn1  AY  fi-npral  Manager 

ECSTOH  STATION,  LOHDOX,  i88>.  G.  f  1NU1.A1,  uenerai  . 

10 


THOMAS  COOK  &  SON, 

261  Broadway.  New  York;  Lndgate  Circus,  London. 

ORIGINATORS  AND  FOUNDERS  OF   THE 

TOURIST  AND  EXCURSION  SYSTEM 

(ESTABLISHED  IN  1841), 

Beg  to  call  the  attention  of  persons  contemplating 

A  TRIP  ABROADiflj 

To  their  unequalled  facilities  for  rendering  such  trips 

EASY,  PRACTICABLE,  AND   ECONOMICAL. 


COOK'S  EXCURSION  PARTIES, 

In  charge  of  a  competent  conductor,  sail  from  New  York  in  APRIL,  MAT,  JUNE, 

and  JULY. 


Tourist  Tickets  for  Individual  Travellers 

To  all  parts  of  the  globe,  issued  in  many  cases  at 

REDUCED    RATES. 

Passage  Tickets  by  all  Lines  of  Atlantic  Steamers. 


EGYPT  AND  PALESTINE. 

Special  facilities  of  the  most  complete  character  for  visiting  these  countries. 
THOMAS  COOK  &  SON  have  their  own  salaried  employees  at  their  own  offices  at 
Alexandria,  Cairo,  Jaffa,  Jerusalem,  Beyrout,  Constantinople,  Athens,  and  other 
chief  points,  where  travellers  under  their  arrangements  can  receive  every  informa- 
tion and  assistance  free  of  charge. 

COOK'S    STEAMERS    ON    THE    NILE 

Are  the  only  steamboats  on  the  River  Nile,  and  no  other  person  or  agency  is  au- 
thorized to  book  passengers  for  them. 

THOMAS  COOK  &  SON  have  also  th«-  FINEST  FLEET  OF  DAHABEAHS  on  the 
river,  for  those  desiring  to  make  a  prolonged  stay  on  the  Nile. 

COOK'S  EXCURSIONIST,  with  Maps  and  full  particulars,  by  mail.  10  cents. 
Address 

THOMAS  COOK  &  SON,  261  Broadway,  New  York. 

11 


LnWri 


LONDON   BRIDGE  (General  City  Station). 

VICTORIA  (General  West  End  Station,  near  to  Buckingham  Palace). 

KENSINGTON  Addison  Road  (West  End  Station). 


THE   SHORTEST   ROUTE 

BETWEEN 

LONDON  AND  THE  SEJ  COAST  OF  ENGLAND, 

ALSO 

THE  SHORTEST  AND  CHEAPEST  ROUTE 

BKTWKKN 

LONDON  AND   PARIS. 


Daily  Service  from  London  Bridge  and  Victoria  Stations, 

In  connection  with  splendid  New  Steamers  between 

NEWHAVEN     AND     DIEPPE. 

Through  Tickets  available  to  stop  on  the  way  at  Brighton,  Dieppe,  Rouen,  &e. 

Spacious   Hotels   and   Restaurants  at  London   Bridge    and  Victoria 
Stations,  also  at  Newhaveu  and  Dieppe  Harbors. 

GENERAL  INQUIRY  AND  BOOKING  OFFICES 

At  28   Regent    4'frcus,  Piccadilly,  and    8   Grand   Hotel    Buildings, 

(under  the  Grand  Hotel)  Trafalgar  Square.    Also  at  XV.   F.  Gillig 

iV  <<>."•»  American  Kxcliaiige  and  Keadlng-Hooms,  449  Strand. 

Time-Books  and  every  information   may  be  obtained. 

DIRECT  TRAINS  TO  BRIGHTON  (the  Queen  of  English  Watering-Places), 
also  to  TUNBJUDGE  WELLS,  WORTHING,  BOGNOK,  EASTBOURNE,  ST. 
LEONARDS,  HASTINGS,  SOUTHSEA,  the  ISLE  OF  WIGHT,  &c.  Special  fa- 
cilities for  visits  to  these  beautiful  localities  during  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

CRYSTAL  PALACE.— Trains  frequently  from.  London  Bridge,  Victoria,  and 
Kensington  (Addison  Road)  Stations — the  direct  and  quickest  route. 

BOXI11LL,  DORKING,  &c. — Beautiful  and  romantic  scenery.  Trains  from 
London  Bridge  and  Victoria — only  a  short  journey  of  about  twenty  miles.  Return 
Tickets  issued  from  London  Bridge  are  available  to  return  to  Victoria,  or  vice  versa. 

ISLE  OF  WIGHT  RETURN  TICKETS  for  one  month  to  Ryde,  Cowes,  and 
Newport ;  for  Osborne  (Her  Majesty's  Marine  Residence),  Carisbrooke  Castle,  and 
Sandown,  Shanklin,  Ventnor,  Bouchurch,  &c.     These  Tickets  enable  passengers 
to  break  their  journey  at  Portsmouth,  the  principal  Naval  Arsenal  of  England. 
General  Offices,  (By  order)          J.  p.  KNIGHT, 

London  Bridge  Station.  General  Manager. 

12 


fflmfATCO 


TO 


Holland,  Belgium,  Germany, 
The  Rhine,  Switzerland,  Austria,  Italy,  &c. 

Via  HARWICH  (Parkeston  Quay)  ROTTERDAM, 
and  ANTWERP, 


The  service  of  this  Company  is  by  Express  Boat-Trains  between  London  and 
Harwich  (Parkeston  Quay),  leaving  Liverpool  Street  Station  every  week-day  even- 
ing at  a  fixed  hour,  and,  by  Steamers  in  connection  therewith,  running  between 
Harwich  (Parkeston  Quay)  and  Rotterdam  and  Antwerp. 

The  new  Steamers  of  the  Company  are  among  the  finest  running  between  Eng- 
land and  the  Continent,  having  all  been  specially  built  for  this  service,  and  fitted 
with  all  the  latest  accommodations  for  Passengers,  including  Ladies',  Dining,  and 
Smoking  Saloons,  separate  Sleeping  Cabins,  and  Lighted  by  Electricity,  &c.  The 
depth  of  water  at  Harwich,  Rotterdam,  and  Antwerp  is  such  that  the  large  Steam- 
ships of  the  Company  are  enabled  to  come  alongside  the  Quays  at  all  states  of 
the  tide.  The  Steamers  are  about  1000  tons  gross,  and  2000  horse  power.  They 
carry  no  cattle. 

NEW  THROUGH  SERVICE 

BETWEEN 

THE  NORTH  OF  ENGLAND  id  THE 

Via  DONCASTER,  MARCH,  and  HARWICH  (Parkeston  Quay), 

The  Continental  Boat-Train  leaves  Doncaster  every  week-day  afternoon  in  con- 
nection with  the  Steamers  from  Harwich,  and  Passengers  from  the  North  thus 
save  the  journey  to  London.  During  the  Summer  a  through  Carriage  is  run  from 
Manchester,  London  Road  Station,  to  Harwich  (Parkeston  Quay),  in  connection  with 
the  departure  and  arrival  of  the  Steamers. 

Through  Tickets  are  issued  at  Glasgow,  Edinburgh,  Newcastle,  Durham,  York, 
Hull,  Leeds,  Bradford,  Halifax,  Doncaster,  Liverpool,  Manchester,  Sheffield,  Gains- 
boro',  Spalding,  Sleaford,  and  Lincoln  ;  and  in  London  at 

THE  CONTINENTAL  BOOKING  OFFICK,  Liverpool  Street  Station  ; 

WKST-EXD  BOOKING  OFFICK,  44  Regent  Street; 

CITY  OFFICKS,  48  Lime  Street;  and  Blossom's  Inn,  Laurence  Lane,  Cheapside. 

For  Special  Third-Class  Tickets  to  Antwerp  and  Rotterdam,  see  page 
31  of  the  Great  Eastern  Railway  Company's  Continental  Time-Book. 

For  Time-Tables  and  all  further  information  u/>/>l<i  t<> 

F.  GOODAY,  Continental  Traffic  Manager, 

LIVERPOOL  STREET  STATION,  LONDON,  E.  C. 
3  13 


.Vlfil 


SIR    W.M.TKR    SCOTT  S     MONUMENT. 

THE    ROYAL    HOTEL, 

(DONALD  MACGREGOK,  Owner  and  Proprietor), 

53  PRIXCES    STREET,  EDINBURGH, 

OPPOSITE  THE  Sf'OTT  MONUMENT,  AND  COMMANDING  THE  BEST  VIEWS  OF 

THK   OARDEN8,  CASTLE,  ARTHUR'S  SEAT,  &c. 

The  Royal  Hotol  has  horn  greatly  enlarged,  uith  all  modern  improvements; 
is  the  nearest  first-class  Hotel  to  the  Hallway  Stations.  Reduction  of  charge,-  to 
meet  the  requirements  of  the  times.  A  night  porter  in  attendance.  An  Elevator 
has  been  added. 

[35-  This  house  is  the  favorite  American  Hotel  in  Edinburgh. 

14 


BANK  OF  MONTREAL. 

ESTABLISHED  IN  1818, 


GOLD. 


CAPITAL, $12,000,000 

RESERVE   FUND, 6,000,000 


The  BANK  OF  MONTREAL  is  prepared  to  issue 

CIRCULAR   NOTES 


AND 


LETTERS  OF  CREDIT 

TO    TRAVELLERS,    AVAILABLE    IN    ALL    PARTS 
OF   THE   WORLD. 


N  KW    YORK    OFFICE, 

69  4  61  W.B  « 


Buy  and  sell  Sterling  Exchange,  Francs,  and  Cable 
Transfers;  grant  Commercial  and  Travellers'  Credits, 
available  in  any  part  of  the  world;  issue  Drafts  on  and 
make  Collections  in  Chicago  and  throughout  the  Domin- 
ion of  Canada. 

LOJSTOON    OFFICE, 

22  ABCHURCH  LANE,  E.  C. 

C.  ASHWORTH,  Manager. 

15 


OXFORD. 


DOL:PPI 

only 


HOTEL, 


IN  THE  CENTRE  OF  THE  CITY.     The  only  modern  built  Hotel  in  Oxford.    Cloie  to  the  Oolleires  and  Public 
Buildinirs    and  commanding  a  fine  open  view  down  Beaumont  Street,  St.  Giles's  Street,  and  Magdalen  Street  op|x>- 
site  the  Martvrs1  Memorial.     Handsome  Suites  of  Apartments:    Ladies'  Coffee  -  Koom,  Billiard  -  Rooms,  and  every 
modern  comfort  and   convenience.     Excellent  Wines,  imported  direct   from   abroad.      Charges   Mode 
Stabling  and  Loose  Boxes.    Visitors  at  this  Hotel  will  meet  with  every  attentior^and  conside 


Good 


MISS   I'ANSOX,  MAKAOeKESS. 


LEAMINGTON. 


THE  REGENT  HOTEL. 

A  First-Class  Family  Hotel  and  Hunting  Establishment.     Flys  :md  Omnibus 
ineet  all  the  G.  W.  and  L.  and  N.  W.  trains.    Posting,  &c.     L.  BISHOP,  Proprietor. 

BUXTON.-ROYAL  HOTEL. 

Reconstructed,  Enlarged,  Elegantly  Decorated  and  Furnished.     Sheltered  Posi- 
tion; near  to  the  Baths,  Wells,  and  Gardens.     Large  Public  Rooms;  Lawn-Tennis 
Ground;  Excellent  Cuisine;  Fine  Wines.     Moderate  charges  ;  tariff  on  application. 
PHILIP  BLADES,  Manager. 

GRA8MERE. 

BROWN'S  PRINCE  OF  WALES  HOTEL, 

ON  THE  MARGIN  OF  THE  LAKE. 

Patronized  by  H.R.  H.  the  Prince  of  Wales.  Prince  Arthur,  and  the  nobility.  Coaches  and  om- 
nibuses meet  trains  at  Windermere  Station,  anfl  steamboats  at  Waterhead  (Ambleside),  and  to  all 
parts  of  the  take  District  daily.  Post  horses.  Mountain  Ponies,  Boats,  Billiards,  Lawn  Tennis,  &c. 


LAKESIDE  (Lake  Windermere). 


THE 


HOTEL. 


A  Fine,  New  House,  close  to  the  Steamboat  Landin 
Special  terms  for  summer  residents. 
16 


and  Railway  Station. 
C. 


LZVERPOOL. 


ADELPHI    HOTEL. 

This  old-established  Family  Hotel,  having  been  entirely  rebuilt  and  refurnished, 
is  now  one  of  the  largest  in  Europe.  It  contains  nearly  300  Sleeping-Rooms,  about 
50  Parlors,  an  elegant  Drawing-Room,  a  spacious  Smoking-Room  in  front,  Restau- 
rant, Visitors'  and  Luggage  Lifts,  Billiard-Room  with  six  Tables,  &c.,  &c. 

The  corridors  on  each  floor  are  of  fire-proof  construction,  and  fire  extinguishers 
are  laid  throughout  the  building. 

The  Hotel  is  centrally  situated,  is  near  the  Railways,  Landing  Stage,  and  places 
of  amusement,  and  has  for  upward  of  fifty  years  been  exclusively  patronized  by  the 
leading  families  of  Great  Britain,  Canada,  and  the  United  States. 

Carriages  of  all  descriptions  constantly  in  attendance.  Post  and  Telegraph 
Offices  in  the  Hotel. 

A  porter  in  livery  attends  all  trains  by  the  Great  Northern,  Manchester,  Shef- 
field, Lincolnshire,  and  Midland  Railways,  and  other  stations  if  requested. 

All  letters  and  telegrams  to  be  addressed  to 

W.  LUDLOW,  Manager. 

THE  GRESIL4MlofEL, 

Upper   Sackville    Street, 

DUBLIlsr. 

One  of  the  largest  and  best-appointed  in  Ireland.     Largely  patronized  by 
American  families  and  tourists.     Tariff  fixed,  and  based  on  moderate  scale. 

W.  HOLDER,  Manager. 


BUXTON.-ST.  AJSrJSPS   HOTEL, 

CONNECTED  WITH  THE  BATHS  BY  A  COYEKED  COLOS>A1»E. 

CLOSE    TO    THE    CHALYBEATE    SPRINGS. 

The  Great  Livery  Stables  in  connection. 

Messrs.  HARRISON   &,   LEGROS.  _  _ 


HOTEL, 

CONNECTED  WITH   THE   STATION. 

One  of  the  Finest  Houses  in  Great  Britain. 


J.   KAY,    M!ana«er. 


MATLOCK  BATH,  DERBYSHIRE-The  Switzerland  of  England. 


On.   Midland   Railway,  near   Chats-worth.. 

TYACK'S  NEW  BATH  HOTEL. 

One  of  the  most  charming,  agreeable,  and  healthy  resorts  in  Europe.  Replete  with  every 
Comfort,  and  Out -door  Recreation.  Sport,  and  Amusement.  Beautiful  Grounds  and  Cardon; 
Lawn-Tennis ;  Large  Swimming- Bath;  Excursions.  Arrangements  made  for  the  season.  Bus 
daily  for  Chatsworth  and  return. 

OBA.N,    SCOTLAND. 

SUTHERLAND'S 

Great  Western  Hotel. 

BEAUTIFULLY   SITUATED;    FIRST  CLASS. 
Well  Known  as  the  First  in  the  Highlands. 

AN  ELEGANT  NEW  DINING-HALL, 

Capable  of  accommodating  200  Persons. 
No  Charge  for  Omnibus  to  and  from  Trains  and  Steamers. 

18 


OXFORD-CLARENDON  HOTEL. 

Situated  in  the  most  central  part  of  the  City,  and  near  to  the  principal  Colleges  and  places 
of  interest  to  visitors.  Families  and  Gentlemen  will  find  this  Hotel  replete  with  every  com- 
fort. Spacious  Coffee-Hooms.  Private  Sitting  and  Bed  Rooms  en  suite.  Guides  always  in 
attendance.  Job  and  Post  Horses.  Fashionable  Open  and  Close  Carriages.  Good  Stabling 
and  Commodious  Coach  Houses.  Wedding  Equipajres  with  Postilions. 

JOHN  P.  ATTWOOD,  Proprietor. 


GLASGOW  AM)  THE  HIGHLANDS. 


(Royal 


CO  U' MB  A, 

IONA. 

CHEVALIER, 

GLENCOK. 

ISLAY, 

FINGAL, 

STAFFA, 

PIONEER, 


Route,  via  Crinan  and  Caledonian  Canals.; 

THE   ROYAL   MAIL   STEAMERS 


CYGNET, 
QUEEN  OF  THE  LAKE, 


GONDOLIER, 

And  1NVKKARAY  CAMI.K. 


CLANSMAN, 
LHCHIEL. 

GLENGARRY, 
MOUNTAIN  i  :KK. 

CLYDESDALE, 
LINNET, 
Lot 'HA  WE, 
PLOVER, 


Sail  during-  the  Season  for  Islay.  Oban,  Fort  William,  Inverness, 

Staffa.  lona,  Glencoc,  Tobermory,  Fortrcc,  Gairloch.  Ross-shire,  UllapooL 

Lochinvcr.  and  Stornoway; 

Aflording  Tourists  an  opportunity  of  Visiting  the 

Magnificent  Scenery  of  Glencoe,  the  Coolin  Hills,  Loch  Cornisk,  Loch  Maree, 
and  the  Famed  Islands  of  StafFa  and  lona. 

Circular  Tourist  Tickets  are  issued  on  board  in  connection  with  the  various  Railways. 

&g~  T  afford  in  their  passaj:"  a  view  of  the  beautiful  >c«-n.-ry  of  the  Clyde,  with 

all  its  watering-places;  tin-  Island  anil  Kyi.  s  i>{  Bute:  Island  of  Arran:  Mountains  dfi'owal.  Knap- 
dale,  and  Kintyre;  Lochfyne;  Crinan.  with  the  Islands  of  Jura.  Scarba.  Mull,  and  many  others  of 
tin'  Western  Sea:  the  Whirlpool  of  Corryvrerhan;  the  Mountains  of  Lorn,  of  Morven.  of  Appin,  of 
Kingairloch.  and  Ben-Nevis:  Inverlochy:  the  IjttnK  of  I.o,  luel-  the  >,  eiie  of  the  wander  • 
Prince  Charles,  and  near  to  where  the  Chins  ra :-•<!  Ir-  g|  indurd  in  '4.'.;  I.orhaber:  the  I'aledonian 
Canal ;  Loi-h  Lochy ;  Loch  Oich;  Ixx;h  Ness,  with  the  <;lens  :md  Mountains  on  either  side,  and  the 
celebrated  Falls  of  Foyers.  Books  descriptive  of  the  route  may  be  had  on  board  flie  steamers. 

Time  Rills  with  Maps  sent,  post  free,  on  application-to  the  Proprietor,  DAVID  MACBRAYNE. 
11U  HOPK  STREKT,  GLASGOW. 

Glasgow.  1880. 

19 


THE  GROSVENOR  HOTEL  Chester,  England, 

(IN  THE  CENTRE  OF  THE  CITY.) 


This  magnificent  Hotel  is  now  open  to  the  public,  and,  having  been  entirely  rebuilt  and 
furnished  in  the  most  elegant  style,  will  be  found  one  of  the  most  convenient  in  the  King- 
dom. A  large  COFFEE-ROOM;  BILLIARD  -  ROOM  ;  also,  a  spacious  and  convenient 
COMMERCIAL-ROOM,  to  \yhich  every  attention  will  be  paid  ;  a  LADIES'  COFFEE-ROOM, 
for  the  convenience  of  Ladies  and  Families;  elegant  and  spacious  BALL-ROOM;  all  the 
BEDROOMS  ;ire  large  and  beautifully  furnished.  Stabling  for  eighty  horses. 

An  Omnibus  attend*  the  Trains,  taking  families  free  to  and  from  the  Hotel. 

GEORGE  HOTEL,  MELROSE, 

NOW    THE 

George  and  Abbotsford  Hotel, 

Altered  by  special  permission  from  the  Honorable  J.  MAXWELL  SCOTT,  of  Abbotsford. 

This  Hotel,  after  extensive  alterations  and  additions — such  as  LADIES'  DK  \\VINtJ-ROOM 
WPITIXG-ROOM,  SMOKING-ROOM,  BILLIARD-ROOM.  LAVATORIES,  &c.,  &c.,  is  now  ready 
for  visitors.  The  magnificent  view  from  the  windows  overlooking  the  Abbey  is  unsurpassed  in 
Scotland.  The  Hotel  is  also  fitted  with  Pneumatic  Bells,  and  every  improvement  necessary  for 
a  first-class  Hotel.  Only  two  minutes'  walk  from  the  Station,  and  the  same  from  the  Abbey. 
The  charges  are  not  more  than  in  second-class  houses.  Bedrooms  from  2s.  upwards. 

MELROSE.  Jan.  18, 1877. 


HOTEL  FOUR  NATIONS, 

Elegant  first-class  House,  situated,  with  full  southern  exposure,  or 
the  Rambla — the  fashionable  promenade.  Kept  on  the  American  plan, 
at  a  certain  rate  per  day. 

Messrs,  FOETIS  &  CO,,  Proprietors, 


IMPERIAL     HOTEL, 

DONEGAL  PLACE, 
BELFAST,  IRELAND. 

W.  J.  JURY,  Proprietor. 


IMPERIAL  HOTEL,  CORK,IRELAND. 


P.    CTJRRY. 


This   first-class   house,  which   is   THE   LARGEST  IN  IRELAND,  is  situated  in  the 
most  central  and  fashionable  part  of  the  city.     Omnibuses  and  the  Hotel  Porters 
await  the  arrival  of  all  the  day  and  night  Trains. 
22 


RAILWAY  HOTEL,  LAKES  OF  KiLLAMEY. 

Patronized  by  their  I.  M.  the  Emperor  and  Empress  of  Brazil,  and  H.  R.  H.  the 
D*ke  of  Connaurjht,  during  their  respective  visits  to  Killarney  in  1877. 

This  Hotel— the  largest  in  the  Lake  District— occupies  the  most  central  position  for  vii-it- 
iii£  the  various  points  of  interest,  aud  possesses  the  necessary  appointments — Carriages, 
Boats,  Guides,  &c..— for  the  purpose.  Its  proximity  to  the  Railway  Station  enables  visitors 
to  proceed  on  excursions  immediately  on  their  arrival  by  train.  Fixed  and  moderate 
charges.  No  gratuities. 

G.    J.    CAPSKY,    Manager. 


LOWER   LAKE   FBOM   TUB   ROTAl,   VICTORIA    HOTEL.   KILLARNKY. 


THE  ROYAL  VICTORIA  HOTEL, 

KILLARNEY,  IRELAND. 

The  Royal  Victoria  Hotel  is  situated  on  the  Lower  Lake.,  close  to  tlir  water's  odi^,  within  tei| 
minutes' drive  of  the  Kaihvay  Station,  nnd  a  short  distance  from  the  f.T -fattiei!  C.-ui  nt'  Dunloe. 
This  lintel,  which  is  Itehted  with  VSK  manufactured  on  the  nrmni-es,  lu\s  bee:i  much  enlarged — n 
magnificent  (Joffe/-l!<>oin,  a  pnhlic  lirawiiifj-IIooni  fur  Ladies  and  l-'amilics  I'.illiard  and  Snidkinp 
l;ix'>nH.  ami  si  ve  :il  ^nitc.-i  of  priv.iti'  .•innrttnent<  f:\i-\nx  (lie  lake,  having  been  recently  added. 
Talili-  d'Hot<»  during  the  Season.  Mot  nnd  <  ..Id  Hath-.  Car-.  Carri:ii;i's,  liojits,  Ponies,  and  Guide*, 
at  fixed  moderate  charge*  Privrr-v  llnatnie'i,  mid  (.nides  are  jwiid  by  the  l'p>]>netor,  and  are  n.-if 
allowed  tosolicit  gratuitiei  The  U".'  I  '  >iuiiibii.-  smd  1'drter-  atti-nd  the  Trains. 

MRS.  JOHN  O'LEARY,  Proprietor. 

23 


HOTEL     C  HAT  HAM, 

HOLZSCHUCH,  Proprietor. 


PLACE  VENDOJIK. 
RUK   DE   LA   PAUL 


67  Rue  Nvc.  St.  Angmstin, 
PARIS. 


BOTJLEVAKT) 
DEB   OAPCOINER 


HOTEL    WINDSOR, 

226  RUE  DE  R1VOLI. 

This  old-established  first-class  Hotel,  situated  in  the  finest  and  healthiest  part 
of  Paris,  opposite  the  Tuileries  Garden,  has  been  entirely  altered  and  improved 
under  a  new  proprietor,  formerly  director  of  the  Hotel  Amirant6.  There  hare 
been  added  now  a  Table  d'Hote,  Hydraulic  Lift,  Reading,  Smoking,  and  Bath 
Rooms.  Arrangements  for  the  winter.  English,  American,  and  German  papers. 
HENRY  SPRENGEL,  Proprietor. 

F^RIS.-   HOTEL    BriSrDA.., 

AVENUE  DE  L'OPEEA;  Entrance,  No.  11  Bue  de  1'Echelle. 

Most  Central  Situation  in  Paris.  Large  and  Small  Apartments;  Bath-Room.  Reading  Room, 
Smoking-Room,  Lift,  kc.  American  and  French  Cuisine;  American  Breakfasts  and  Specialties. 
Under  management  of  the 

Proprietor,  Mr.  CH.  HIM) A,  formerly  Manager  at  Delmonico's,  New  York. 

PARIS. 

GEAND  HOTEL  DE  LA  PLACE  DU  PALAIS  KOYAL, 

1TO    Rxie   de    Rivoli,  17O. 

Fronting  the  Square  of  the  Palais  Royal  and  the  Louvre  ;  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Tuileries  and  Champs  E!y«ts, 
Theatres,  and  Place  de  la  Bourse.  Large  and  Small  Apartments,  Sitting-Rooms,  very  handsome  Dininit-Room.  Table 
d'Hote  at  six;  Breakfasts  and  Dinners  in  private  rooms.  Conversation  and  Reading  Rooms.  French  and  Foreign 
Newspapers ;  Lift;  Cab-Stand  close  by  ;  Attendants  speaking  all  lungnages. 

MEMR».  MURSCH  &  GRADOS,  PROPBIITOM. 


LHERBETTE,  KANE,  &  CO., 

AMERICAN     BANKERS 

AND 

FORWARDING  AGENTS, 
19     HUE     SCRIBE,    19, 

PARIS. 

AGENTS  FOR  THE  STEAMERS  FROM  HAVRE  TO  NEW  YORK. 

PACKAGES  AND  MERCHANDISE  FORWARDED  BY  EVERY 
STEAMER  TO  NEW  YORK. 

MEDICINES. 


SWANN, 

ENGLISH     CHEMIST, 

12    RUE    CASTIGL.IONE,    PARIS. 

This  House  has  had  the  patronage  of  the  United  States  Ambassadors  and 
principal  American  Families  for  upward  of  Twenty  Years. 

Paris.— SUSSE  FRERES, 

31  PLACE  DE  LA  BOURSE, 

MANUFACTURERS   OF    BRONZES    OF    ART. 

Groups  and  Statuettes.  Marble  and  Bronze,  by  the  most  celebrated  Fre™Vtrt!™ '/l£r«' 
Chandeliers,  and  Dining-Room  Suspensions;  Lamps,  '•£*%"•*»»''%£*  Clomonn,*  Ware, 
Sevres  Porcelain  of  China  and  Japan.  All  articles  are  marked  m  plain  figures. 

PARIS. 
RESTAl  RANT    DE    LA    VILI,E    DE    PARIS, 

Corner  of  Rue  du  Quatre  Septembre  and  Rue  do  Port  Mahon. 

Restaurant  d  la  carte  and  at  Fixed  Prices.  Much  frequented  by  English  and  Americans. 
Private  Rooms  and  Moderate  Prices. 

N  B  —Not  to  be  confounded  with  a  neighboring  house  of  same  name. 

HUBERT,  formerly  of  the  Cafe  Riche. 

25 


HOTEL    BELLEVUE,  Paris. 


PAEIS.  39  Avenue  de  1'Opera,  8  Kue  d'Antin,  PAEIS, 

READING    AND    SMOKING    ROOMS,  LIFT,  &c. 

MR.  L.  HAUSER,  PROPRIETOR. 


CHAS.  FREES  &  HOOPER. 


LATE 


JOAN  iHEIDUL 


The  only   TAILORS  from 
America  in  Paris. 

20,  RUE  DE  LA  CHAUSSEE-D'ANTIN,  20. 


26 


PARIS 


GRAND  HOTEL  DE  L'ATHENEE, 

15    RUE     SCRIBE. 

VAUTIER,  Director. 

Travelers  are  informed  that  they  will  find  in  the  Hotel  an  Elevator;  Bath- 
Rooms  on  each  floor ;  Restaurant  a  la  Carte ;  Two  Private  Dining-Rooms ;  Public 
Parlor;  Billiard  and  Smoking  Room*;  a  Reading-Room. 

PRINTED    TARIFF     FOR    THE    ROOMS. 


GANTERIE  RENE, 

EX-MANAGER  OF  THE  GLOVE  DEPARTMENT 

IN     ONE    OB'    THE    G-RE^T    STORES    OF1    r»^.RIs?, 

30,  Boulevard  des  Italiens,  30. 

CLOSE   TO   THE    GRAND    OPERA. 

The  proprietor  of  this  house  begs  to  notify  American  ladies  and  gentlemen,  who  have  already 
Riven  him  so  many  proofs  of  confidence,  that  his  Gloves  can  rival  in  Price,  Elegance, 
Cut,  Quality,  :md  Freshness,  with  those  of  the  first  houses  in  1'aris.  The  great 
care  taken  iu  the  manufacture  of  his  Gloves  allows  him  to  offer  a  real  guarantee  for  every- 

ih  ng  leaving  his  establishment. 

PRICES. 

SWEDISH  GLOVES. 

It ii i ion* Frs.  2.6O 


KID  GLOVES. 
Buttons Frs.  3.9O 


4 

6 

8 

1O 


4.75 


6.75       6 

7.75       8 

8.75     10 

10.50112 

SPECIALTY   OF   LONG  GLOVES. 


... 


2.90 
3.5O 
4.25 
4.90 
5.90 
7. SO 


Also  the  latest  fashions  and  most  ui'ii'ful  styles  of  all  Articles  de  Fautaisie.  such  as  Hats.  Per- 
fumery, Veils,  Handkerchief*.  Cravats,  Scarfs,  Parasols,  En-Cas,  Umbrellas,  Fans,  Laces, 
Flowers,  Perfumed  Sachets.  PlisseS,  &c. 

SHIRTS    MADE    TO    ORDER. 


L.  ROCH-SAUTIER 


Agent  to   the   British,  and.  American    Embassies, 

BANK  AND  EXCHANGE  OFFICE, 

GENERAL  COMMISSION  AGENT,  AND  WINE  MERCHANT, 

Agent  for  the   National   Line   of  Steamers. 

1O    RUE    CABTIOLIONE, 

PARIS. 


ESTABLISHED    5O    YEARS. 


Mr.  L.  ROCH-SAUTIER  begs  to  call  the  attention  of  the  Public 
visiting  Paris  and  the  Continent  to  the  advantages  afforded  by  the 
following  branches  of  his  Establishment : 

BANK  AND   EXCHANGE. 

Checks  on  the  various  Banks  of  Great  Britain  cashed  on  presenta- 
tion, at  the  highest  premium,  thus  avoiding  the  inconvenience  of  car- 
rying Circular  and  other  Notes,  the  usual  Banker's  Commission  not 
being  charged.  Accounts  Current  allowed,  and  Interest  granted  on 
Deposits.  Letters  of  Credit  given  for  India,  China,  America,  and  the 
Continent.  Sales  and  Purchases  of  Public  Securities  effected. 

HOUSE  AND   ESTATE  AGENCY. 

Furnished  and  Unfurnished  Houses  and  Apartments  of  every  de- 
scription procured  in  Paris,  its  Environs,  or  any  part  of  France,  without 
any  expense  to  the  Tenant.  Estates  Bought  and  Sold.  Temporary 
or  other  accommodation  secured  in  the  best  Hotels  by  advising  the 
Firm. 

COMMISSION  AGENCY. 

Every  description  of  Merchandise,  Furniture,  Works  of  Art,  Bronzes, 
&c.,  obtained  at  the  trade  price,  thus  saving  the  buyer  from  20  to  30 
per  cent. 

FOREIGN  AND  FRENCH  WINES. 

The  extensive  Stock  of  L.  ROCH-SAUTIER,  formed  during  the 
last  thirty-six  years,  enables  them  to  supply  Wines  of  the  finest  quality 
on  most  moderate  charges. 
28 


W  0  0  D  SI  A  S, 


QJ 

TAILOR, 


NO.  16 

RUE    HALEVY  (Chaussee  d'Antin), 

Invites    the    attention    of  the    American    and 
English 

TRAVELERS 

to  his  large  Stock  of  Summer  and 
Winter  Goods,  adapted  especially  to 
the  wants  of  gentlemen  of  taste,  style, 
and  quality  in  clothing. 

COURT  DRESSES 

Prepared  at  the  Shortest  Notice. 


29 


ENGLISH 

HATS 
OF  THE 


FIRST 
LONDON 
HOUSES. 


/  Place  de 


P  A.  R,  I  S. 


PORT,  SHERRY,  CHAMPAGNE. 

BURGUNDIES,  LIQUEURS,  CLARETS. 

ENGLISH,  IRISH,  AND  SCOTCH  WHISKIES. 


L.  ROCH-SAUTIER, 

WINE  MERCHANT, 

BANKER, 

HOUSE  AND  ESTATE  AGENT 


10  RUE  CASTIGLIONE, 

30 


J 

PA&IS. 


ESTABLISHED   FORTY-NINE   YEARS. 


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C  A  N  N  E 


:PRINCE  OF  W.AX.ES  HOTEL. 

Built  with  all  the  latest  Improvements,  and  charmingly  situated  inland,  in  one  of  the  most 
sheltered  positions,  near  St.  Paul's  Church,  it  commands  at  the  same  time  a  splendid  view  of  the 
sea.  There  are  extensive  grounds  for  Croquet  and  Lawn-Tennis;  Lift  with  safety  apparatus.  Vis- 
itors will  flnd  great  comfort  for  a  long  or  short  stay,  and  is  highly  recommended  by  medical  men. 
English  Billiard-Room,  and  Table  by  Burroughes  &  Watts.  Fencing- Room,Gymnasium ;  Complete 
Hydropathy ;  Winter  Garden ;  Special  Saloon  for  Educational  Courses  by  noted  Professors. 

M.  DE  LA  BLANCHETAIS,  FORMERLY  PROPRIETOR  OF  HOTEL  D'ALBE,  PARIS. 

MONTE-CARLO. 


"LE  GRAND  HOTEL." 

OPENED  JANUAKY  Isx,  1882. 

$     MAGNIFICENT  SITUATION. 

250  Rooms,  and  Lift 

The  Restaurant  Francais  for  Visitors; 

Breakfasts,  Dinners,  and  Service  a  la  Carte  at  all  hours, 

N.  B. — The  garden,  dining-rooms,  &c.,  of  the  Grand  Hotel,  and  the 
Restaurant  Franfais,  are  lighted  with  Electric  Light. 

Mr.  X.  JUNGBLUTH,  Proprietor. 

N.  B.— Not  to  be  confounded  with  '<  Grand  Hotel  Monte -Carlo.'* 
32 


WASHINGTON  CLUB 

(CERCLE  FRANCO-AMERICAIN), 
4  Place  de  1'Opera,    -    -    PARIS. 


NOTICE  TO   MEMBERS   OF  CLUBS. 

Any  citizen  of  the  United  States  belonging  to  a  first-class  Club,  or 
citizens  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  Members  of  first-class  Clubs  in 
their  own  country,  and  not  residents  of  Paris,  may  be  admitted  to  all 
the  privileges  of  Membership  at  the  "Washington  Club"  (with  the 
exception  of  introducing  guests),  for  a  period  of  eight  days,  on  pre- 
sentation of  any  document  verifying  such  Membership.  The  "  Wash- 
ington Club "  has  the  most  beautiful  position  in  the  city  of  Paris, 
occupying  one  side  of  the  Place  de  1'Opera ;  on  the  others  are  situated 
the  new  Opera  House,  the  Grand  Hotel,  and  the  Sporting  Club. 


LAWS  AND  REGULATIONS 

OF 

SHOUT  WHIST 


ADOPTED    BY 


THE  WASHINGTON  CLUB 
OF 


Compiled  from  the  Best  Modern  Authorities,  and  as  Played  in  the  Principal  Clubs 
of  London  and  Paris,  and  in  the  First  Saloons  of  both  Capitals. 

WITH   MAXIMS   AND   ADVICE  FOR  BEGINNERS. 

BY 

W.  PEMBROKE    FETRIDGE, 

AUTHOR  or  "HARPER'S  HAND-BOOKS,"  "TIIK  RISE  AND  FALL  or  THE  PARIS  COUMINK," 
"HARPER'S  PHKASE  BOOK,"  ETC. 

NEW  YUKK  :  HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  Franklin  Square.     PARIS:  GALKJN  A  N  f 
&  CO.,  Rue  de  Rivoli.     LONDON  :  W.  S.  ADAMS  &  SONS,  59  Fleet  Street. 

33 


DIEPPE  SEA-BATHLNG  AND  CASINO. 


j-^KA^ONT    1883. 

The  Rendezvous  in  Northern  France  of  the  Elite  of  French  and  Foreign  Society  and  Clubmen.  Theatre  (orchestra 
of  50  performers),  Ball,  or  Concert  every  evening.  Dancing  and  Fencing  Academy,  Gymnasium,  Riding-School,  and 
SkatinR-Rink.  Parisian  Restaurant  by  the  Sea-shore.  Two  Race  Meetings:  first,  July  31,  August  1,  5,  3,  4;  second, 
end  of  August  or  first  days  of  September.  Card,  Readme,  and  Conversation  Rooms.  Cerclt  (Club)  da  Bairn,  reserved 
for  members  of  the  principal  Pans  clubs  and  London  Athena?nm.  French  and  Foreign  Newspapers  ;  Telegraph  Office. 
3%  hour*  from  St.  Lazare  Station.  Direction  :  Caaino,  Dieppe,  and  14  Rue  des  Pyramides,  Paris. 

GRENOBLE.    HOTEL  MONNET. 

Carriages  for  Grrande  Chartreuse,  &c. 
TRILLAT,  Proprietor. 

Marseilles,— Restaurant  Fouque  and  Hotel  d'Orleiius, 

ONE  OF  THE  FIRST  IN  FRANCE. 
PARISIAN    CUISINE,  PROVINCIAL    SPECIALTIES,   BOUILLABAISSE    (THE 

FAMOUS  MARSEILLES  FISH-DISH),  OURSINS,  OYSTERS,  &c.,  \c. 
19    RTJE    ^VA.COTX    (A  STEP  FROM  THE   CANNEBIERE). 

NICE.— ANGLO-AMERICAN  DRUG  STORE 

(PHARMACIE  INTERNATIONALE), 
9   QUA  I    ST.  JEAN-BAPTISTE  (under  Grand  Hotel). 

PI.l'MEY  &   PEttUKIEU,  I'liarmaceutical  Chemists.      Prescriptions  carefully  prepared;   every 

known  American,  English,  and  French  Specialty;  Mineral  (Congress)  Waters;  Specialty 

of  Homoeopathic  Remedies.     Purveyors  to  the  American  Fleet 

MENTONE-HOTEL  NATIONAL. 

Xrw  Hotel;  superbly  situated  in  a  Central  P<.siti<m  on  the  Hill,  in  tlir  midst  of 
Olive  iiud  Orange  Gardens,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  sea.  The  best  medical 
advice.  Lift  to  each  floor.  Plans  of  rooms  and  hotel  sent  on  application. 

E.    BERTSCH,    r»roprictor. 
34 


THE  FINEST  BEACH  ON  THE  NORMAN  COAST. 

Grand  Hotel  and  Casino, 

THEATRE,    CONCERTS,    DANCING-PARTIES,    AND 

FESTIVITIES    AND    ATTRACTIONS 

OF    EVERY    KIND. 

Cercle    or    Club    du    Casino. 

L,  PARENT,  Proprietor  and  Administrator, 

HARPER'S   PERIODICALS, 

Per  Year : 

HARPER'S   MAGAZINE $4  00 

HARPER'S  WEEKLY 400 

HARPER'S  BAZAR 4  00 

HARPER'S  YOUNG   PEOPLE 2  00 

HARPER'S    FRANKLIN    SQUARE    LIBRARY,  One 

Number  each  wct-k  for  One  Year 10  00 

Postage  Free  to  all  Subscribers  in  the   U/i''t«?  Wittes  or  Canada. 

HARPER'S  FRANKLIN  SQUARE  LIBRARY  :  a  weekly  publication, 
containing  works  of  Travel,  Biography,  History,  Fiction,  and  Poetry,  at 
prices  ranging  from  10  to  25  cents  per  number.  Full  list  of  Harper's 
Franklin  Square  LHn-ary  will  be  furnished  gratuitously  on  application  to 
HARPER  &  BROTHERS. 

Remittances  should  be  made  by  Post-Office  Money  Order  or  Draft,  to 
avoid  risk  of  loss.     Addr 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  Franklin  Square,  N.  Y. 

HARPER'S  CATALOGUE,  of  between  three  and  four  thousand  vol- 
umes, mailed  on  receipt  of  Ten  Cents  in  Postage  Stamps. 

35 


E. 


GRAND  HOmFRASCATI. 

Tie  Best,  and  the  Best  Situated,  Facing  tte  Sea, 

OMNIBUS  and  CARRIAGES  at  the  HOTEL. 

OPEN  ALL,  THE  YEAR. 

CONCERTS, 

DANCING    PARTIES, 

BATHS,    SLC. 

ME,  TH.  FOTSCH,  Director, 
Formerly    of  Hotel    Quirinal,   Rome. 

DIEPPE.      HOTEL     ROY^LL. 

ON    THE    BEACH. 
A  Magnificent  First-Class  House.    Open  all  the  Year. 


_  LARSONNETJX,  Proprietor. 

DIEPPE. 

GRAND  HOTEL  DBS  BAINS. 

Best  Situation,  near  the  Casino. 
FIRST-CLASS  HOUSE.     OPEN  ALL   THE   YEAIi. 

E.    TAILLETJX. 

HAVRE,  GRAND  HOTEL  DE  NORMANDIE, 

Erst-Class.    Centre  of  the  City.    No.  106  Ene  de  Paris. 

In  the  finest  quarter,  near  the  Theatre,  Exchange,  Pier,  &c.     Railway  Ticket  Offk-e 
opposite  the  hotel.     T;ihle  d'Hote  and  Restaurant. 


BOULOGNE-SUR-MER.     HOTEL   DBS   BAINS. 

A  FINE,  FIRST-CLASS  HOUSE, 

Near  the  Railway  Station,  Steamers,  and  Casino,  and  the  Largest  Hotel  in  Boulogne. 

Splendid  Bathing  Establishment.    Table  d'Hote,  and  all  conveniences 
36 


V  1C  MY. 

GRAM  HOTEL  MS  AMBASSADEURS. 


On  (he  Park,  in  front  of  the  Kiosque  Musique  and  the  Casino. 

200  Chambers.     Apartments  for  Families.     A  Grand  Saloon  for  Fetes,  capa- 
ble of  containing  500  persons.     Smoking-Room,  with  Billiards. 

ROUBEAT7    PLACE,   Proprietor. 

ROUEN. 

GRAND    HOTEL    D'ALBION, 

16   QUAI   DE    LA   BOURSE. 

Table.  d'Ht'-te  Pinner  at  Six.     Dejeiiners  a  la  Carte.     Arrangements  Made.     Large  and  Small 
Apartments.     Charges  Moderate.     English  Spoken.  v    BOCTE1LLEU,   Proprietor. 


HOTE       GBBON. 

Old-Established,  Excellent  Hotel.  Full  View  of  the  Whole  Range 
of  the  Alps  and  Lake  from  the  Splendid  Shaded  Terrace  and  Large 
Garden.  Pension  in  Winter. 

ItlTTER-ROSSRL,    Proprietor. 


SKETCHES  AND   STUDIES  IN  SOUTHERN  EUROPE, 

By    JOHT^T    ADDHSTGrTON    SYJVIONDS. 

In  I  »u  Vuluni,  s.     I'.'xt  STO,  (loth,  $4.00. 

Ptbi.i=HED  BY  HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  NKW  YORK. 
Kg-  Sent,  oy  mai/,  poslagr  prepaid,  to  any  part  of  the.  United  States,  on  receipt  of  ike  prie*. 

4  37 


MARSEILLES. 


THE  LARGEST  HOTEL  IN  MARSEILLES: 

PACING  FULL  SOUTH. 
UNIVERSALLY    REPUTED. 

Recommended  and  patronized  by  the  highest  class  of  society.  Newly 
restored.  Several  Patent  Lifts.  225  Rooms  and  Saloons;  Reading,  Draw- 
ing, Billiard,  and  Smoking  Rooms;  Divans;  Winter  Garden;  Table  d'Hote 
and  "Restaurant;"  Baths  on  each  floor.  Omnibus  and  Carriages  at  the 
Station.  Railway  Tickets  sold  in  the  Hotel.  Moderate  terms. 

PAUL  NEUSCHWANDER  &  CO.,  New  Proprietors. 

N.  B. — Get  ICtablissement  est  le  seul  a  Marseille  ou  les  omnibus  et  ventures 
entrant  dans  une  cour  couverte  &  1'instar  du  Grand  Hotel  a  Paris. 


a, i/    — ~ — 
HOTEL  BEAU  SITE 

AND 

HOTEL  DE  L'ESTEREL. 

Both  Situated  at  the  West  End  of  Cannes, 

In  the  midst  of  Most  Splendid  Grounds,  communicating,  and  adjoining 
Lord  Brougham's  Property— the  healthiest  part  of  the  Town. 

300  Bedrooms  and  Piivate  Sitting-Rooms ;  Reading,  Smoking,  and 
Billiard  Rooms,  with  English  Tables ;  Bath-Rooms.  Lift  with  safety 
apparatus.  Lawn-Tennis  Ground — considered  the  finest  and  largest 
in  Cannes.  Arrangements  made. 

GEORGES  GOUGOLTZ,  Proprietor, 


AIX-LES-BAINS. 

h.oui-8    from    Paris;    13    hours    from    Marseilles ;    3    hours   froi 
Geneva;    f  hours   fVom    Turin. 


CERCLE  (Club)  D'AIX-LES-BAINS, 

Situated  in  Hie  centre  of  the  town,  near  nil  the  Large  Hotels,  the  Station  Public  ftanlen. 
Untlis.  I'osi  and  Telegraph  Ollices.  the  CKKi'LK  H'AIX  l.KS  MAINS-  whose  recent  aggrandize- 
ment has  made  il  one  of  the  most  inagnilieent  establishments  of  the  kind  in  France— offers  to 
us  members  ,ind  visitors  all  the  enjoyments  and  distractions  ih,.y  can  des  re. 

A  THEATRE  WITH   800   SEATS  AND  A  RESTAURANT 

Will  be  opened  in  June,  lss-2. 

Concerts  by  the  Orchestre  of  the  Cercle;  Large  Balls  (evening  dress  on 

Thursdays);  Military  Music  (Tuesdays  at  7.30P.M.);  Illumination  of  the 

Gardens;   Fireworks;   Representations  at  the  Theatre  twice 

every  week  by  the  Comic  Opera  Troupe  of  the  Cercle. 

CHILDREN'S  BALLS;  FETES  DE  NUIT, 

Reading- Rooms,  with   French   and   Foreign  Journals;    Music  and  Con- 
versation Rooms;   Billiard  and  Jeux  de  Societe  Rooms; 
Cafe,  Restaurant,  Clacier. 

PRESENTATION    IS    OBLIOATOltY. 

The  CERCLE  D'AIX  LES  HAINS  is  open  from  May  1st  to  October  :!1.=t 

For  all  information,  please  address  M.  LE    DIRECTEUR    DU    CERCLE. 

AIX-LES-BAINS. 


"la  des 


OPENED  BUT  THREE  YEARS  AGO, 


Is  a  creation  wmch  became  almost  instantly  one  of  the  favorite  and  most  popular 
resorts  of  the  kind  in  Europe,  attracting  many  foreigners  to  Aix-les-Bains. 

Situated  in  a  Vast  and  Magnificent  Park,  in  which  (independent  of 
Daily  Concerts  by  the  Casino  Band  of  50  musicians)  splendid  Petes  de 
Nu.it  are  given  on  Saturdays,  the  ViUn  <A.s  /•'/, -nrx  offers  to  the  public 

Daily  Theatrical  Representations,  Balls,  Divers  Games, 
Card-Rooms,  Guignol,  Fencing-Hall, 

ONE  OF  THE  BEST  RESTAURANTS  IN  FRANCE, 

In  fact,  every  comfort,  convenience,  and  enjoyment  conceivable. 

Season  Tickets,  40  francs ;  Day  Tickets,  3  francs — both  giving  admission  to 
the  theatre,  &c. 

PATRONIZED  BY  THE  ELITE  OF  FRENCH  AND  FOREIGN  SOCIETY, 
On  account  of  its  lion  Tun  and  Elegance. 


GEAND  CASINO  DE  LA  "VILLA  DES  FLEURS," 

39 


Turin.  -GRAND  HOTEL  D'BUROPE, 

Place  du  Chateau,  opposite  Royal  Palace. 

ENTIRELY  REFITTED  AND  RENOVATED.    RESTAURANT  IN  THE  EXHIBITION  GROUNDS. 

BORGO   &   GAGLIAKDI,  Proprietors. 

GENOA—  GRAND  HOTEL  DE  GENES. 

MESSRS.  L.  BONERA  &   BROTHERS. 
Place  Carlo  Felice—  the  most  beautiful  situation  in  the  City. 

This  magnificent  and  first-class  Hotel,  toriuei-ly  the  I'ala/./.i  MarHit-M-  >|jiuo;a,  \\;i>  u,-s\lv  .1,,1-n,  l  ;m  i  r-urir-'lv 
refurnishcd  about  two  years  ajro.  Its  situation—  opposite  the  celebrated  Theatre  '•  Carlo  Felice,  "  ami  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  English  Church,  thi;  I'ost-Office,  the  principal  Public  Buildings,  and  free  from  the  noise  of  the  railway—  con- 
tributes to  render  this  Hotel  a  most  desirable  residence.  Large  and  small  apartments  fitted  up  in  the  most  elegant 
»tyle;  Table  d'H6te;  Heading  aud  Smoking  Saloons;  Baths,  &c.  Omnibuses  from  the  H,.t  -1  meet  every  train. 

Pisa—  HOTEL  VICTORIA  ET  DE  L'ARNO. 

FIRST-CLASS    HOUSE, 

Between  the  Station  and  Monuments,  on  the  Arno. 

FULL  SOUTH.  D.  PIEGAIA,  PROPRIETOR. 

LEGHORN-ORAND  HOTEL 


June  1st,  1884. 
POETA  A  MAEE,  OPPOSITE  THE  BATHS  PANOALDI 

One  of  the  finest,  most  comfortable  hotels  in  Italy,  in  the  middle  of  a  large 
Garden.  Beautiful  view  of  the  Sea  and  the  Mountains.  Hydraulic  Lift,  Billiards, 
Baths,  &c.  Pension  during  the  Spring,  Autumn,  and  Winter  Seasons. 

J.    SPATZ. 

CO-PROPRIETOR   OF   THE   GRAND   HOTEL    AT   MILAN'. 
"  "        "       GRAND    HOTEL     "     VENICE. 

"  "        "       GRAND    HOTEL     "    LOCARNO. 


FLORENCE.— HOTEL   DE  L  UNIVERS. 

FULL    SOUTH. 

Every  Comfort  of  the  Best  Hotels.     Spacious  Suite  of  Apartments  for  winter  sojourn ;  Beauti- 
ful Garden.     Mr.  S.  BARSANTIM,  Manager. 

Pension  arrangements ;  moderate  charges.    Recommended  to  English  and  Americans. 
N.  B.— Table  d'Hote.  Wine  included.  <i    M.  SCHILLER,  PROPRIETOR. 

OIVlNltJUS    A.T    ALL    TRAINS. 


Flomice.-KESTAUHAXT  DON7EY  AND  NEYEUX, 

16   VIA   TORNABUONI. 

(First  floor),  most  rocherrhc  French  di  MHC:   iirnmnd  floor).  1'i'iiissprie.  Chocolate  (factory),  Bon 
bons.  Ices.  S:indu  iclios.  Luncheons.  Host  Brands  of  Wine.  &c.     Elegant  Saloons  for  ladies. 

Table  d'Hote  Dinner,  Wine  included,  served  at  6  P.  M. 

N.  B.— .Vo  cimiwctivii  laliattn-r  irit.h  ('  -J'r-  7>  •?)••.••.  in-.rl  ,li,ni: 


FLORENCE  —A  LA  VILLE    DE   LYON. 

NOUVEAUTES  FOR  LADIES. 


S    AND    HVULLUSTKKS. 
Special  Department  tor  Ladies'  Hats,  Bonnets,  dec. 

40 


FLORENCE. 


M  A  N  U  F AC  T  U  K  K  K, 
1  Piazza  S.  Trinita,  1  (corner  Via  Tornabuoni). 

Large  and  Magnificent  Collection.     Patronized  by  all  the  crowned 
beads  of  Europe.     Fixed  prices — invariable. 

FLOREKCE. 


ARTISTIC  MAJOLICA, 

DECORATIVE  AND  FOR  USE. 

SONS  OF  GIUSEPPE  CA.MAGAI1I, 

Outside  the   Porta  Romana,  on  the  "Way  to  Certosa. 

INSPECTION  INVITED. 

FLORENCE—  KRAFTS^HOTEL   D'lTALIE, 

LUNG'    ARNO    :NTJOVO,    Full    South. 

Totally  Eeorganized.  with  all  Latest  Improvements,  Including  Lift. 

(     RERNERHOF.  BFRNT:. 
BRA.NCH  OF    ]    GRAND   HOTEL   DE   NICE.  NICK. 

(    GRAND   HOTEL   DE   TURIN.  TURIN. 

ROME.—  HOTElTE  LA  M1NERVE. 

This  house,  renownod  for  its  moderate  charges,  comfort,  and  irreproachable  attendanoe.  is 
situated  in  Itie  centre  of  Rnme.  in  tin-  Healthiest  Poi»i(ioii,  d'><c  i..  the  principal  monu- 
ments. ;mil  near  the  Capitol,  the  Pantheon,  the  Corso,  I'ost  and  Telegraph  Offices,  ic.  Table 
d'Hote;  Reading.  Conversation,  and  Smokiug  Rooms;  Foreign  Journals;  Baths.  Arc.  Servants 
speaking  principal  languages.  Mr.  J.  "" 


Rome.-HOTEL  CONTINENTAL 

OPPOSITE  THE  STATION, 

In  the  highest  nnd  healthiest  part  of  Rome,  and  nearest  the  Antiquities  and  At- 
tractions. Same  proprietor  as  the  well-known  HOTEL  D'ALI.KMAii.NE,  in  the 
centre  of  the  city,  and  of  the  HOTEL  DE  ITKIN  at  M.'iit..no.  I».  ' 


TVH01,  AM)  THE  SKIRT  OF  THK  ALPS. 

BY      QEORGE      E.    WARING,     JR. 
Illuntrated.     8vo,  Olotb,  $3  OO. 


PCBLISHKO   BY   HARPER   &   BROTHERS.  FRANKLIN   SQUARK,  XE\V    YORK. 

41 


HOTEL    DE    ROME, 


BERLIN.-UNDER  THE  TILLEULS,  No.  39. 
ADOLPHE  MUIHLING,  PROPRIETOR. 

The  first  and  largest  hotel  of  the  capital.  Highly  recommended.  Well  kept,  clean,  and 
comfortable.  EXCELLENT  TABLE  D'HOTE  AND  RESTAURANT.  BATHS,  CAR- 
RIAGES. GERMAN,  FRENCH,  AND  ENGLISH  NEWSPAPERS  AT  THE  HOTEL. 

ALL  LANGUAGES   SPOKEN. 


ROME. 


QUIRINALE  HOTEL, 

Via    Nazionalc. 

ONLY    HOTEL    IN    ROME    OF    GREAT    SIZE    BUILT 
EXPRESSLY  FOR  A   HOTEL. 


Every    Modern     Comfort. 

( Lift,  Ladies'  Parlor,  Reading,  Smoking,  and  Conversation    Rooms, 
all  with  southern  aspects.)      Situated  in  the  largest  Street  of  Rome, 
on  a  site  selected  expressly  with  a  view  to  healthiness, 
42 


ROME. 

OTEL  COSTANZI. 

This  first-class  Hotel  contains  350  Sleeping-Rooms  and  Saloons, 
all  elegantly  furnished.  Large  Dining,  Reading,  and  Billiard  Rooms; 
Lift;  Fine  Gardens.  The  Hotel  is  built  on  the  highest  and  healthiest 
position  of  Rome,  and  from  many  of  its  rooms  commands  a  beautiful 
view  over  the  town. 

Great  Comfort,  aM  Every  Attraction. 

CREMONESI,  MARTINELLI,  &  CO., 


PROPRIETORS. 


NAPLES. 

GRAND~~HOTEL. 

FIRST-CLASS  AND  MOST  COMFORTABLE  HOTEL,  situ- 
ated in  the  fin'est  and  most  select  part  of  Naples,  with  magnificent 
views  of  the  Town,  Vesuvius,  and  the  Ba^.  Hydraulic  Lift. 

ALFEED  HAUSER,  of  Lucerne,  Proprietor, 


NAPLES.— KERNOT'S  ENGLISH  PHARMACY. 

Only  English  Chemist  in  Naples,  and   Chemist  to   II.  M.  the 
King  of  Italy. 

STRADA  SAN  CAELO  14,  opposite  Theatre  EoyaL 

N.  B.— Travellers  arc  respectfully  cautioned  against  guides,  touters,  and  messengers,  who  may 
have  an  object  in  misleading  them. 

P.  WYSS,  SWISS  WATCH-MAKER, 

STRADA  SANTA  BRIGIDA  47  and  47bis. 

Largest  a.-s»nmi>ut  of  all  kinds  of  Stem-winders.     Watches  repaired  in  a  few  hours  most 
efficiently,  with  guarantee  for  one  year. 

43 


Naples.-HOTEL  TRAMONTANO,  BEAU  RIVAGE, 

Situated  on  the  most  picturesque  point  of  the  Corso  Yitfnrio  Einnnuele ;  com- 
manding views  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  the  Islands  of  Capri,  Posilippo,  the  entire  Co;ist 
Line  extending  between  Sorrento  and  Naples,  &c.  Charges  moderate. 

N.  B.— All  communications  to  be  addressed  to  MICHAEL  BRAZIL  DOYLE,  DIRECTOR. 

GRAND  HOTEL  BRUN,  BOLOGNA, 

J.   in.   FTrtA.~N~K.,    Proprietor. 

The  best  recommendation  for  this  hotel  is  its  good  reputation.     Elegant  apartments  and 

single  rooms  to  suit  all  classes  of  travellers. 

Flue  Rreakfast  and  Dining  Rooms;  Billiard  and  Smoking  Room*; 
Reading-Room  supplied  with  all  the  principal  journals. 

The  hotel  is  under  the  immediate  superintendence  of  the  proprietor. 

HOTEL   TRAMONTANO, 

SORRENTO. 

Directly  opposite  NAPLES,  with  magnificent  view  of  the  Bav  and  its  surronnJii-.gs. 
ENGLISH     PROPRIETOR. 

Venioe.-HOTEL  DE  I/EUROFE. 

OLD-ESTABLISHED   FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL, 
On  the  Grand  Canal,  opposite  the  Church  of  I, a   Salute. 

Large  and  Small  Apartments,  for  FH mules  and  Gentlemen.  Visitors  will  find 
this  house  very  comfortable,  well  situated,  and  reasonable  in  charges.  Southern 
exposure.  MARSEILLE  FRERES,  PROPRIETORS. 

VENICE.-GR.AMD    HOTEL, 

FORMERLY  NEW  YORK. 

Exceptional  position,  with  southern  exposure,  on  Grand  Canal,  close  to  the 
Place  of  St.  Mark,  and  opposite  the  Church  of  La  Salute.  Hydraulic  Lift. 

OCCHETTI  &  SPATZ,  Proprietors.  WHRMS  &  MELANO,  Managers. 

VENICE.— GONDR  AND  FRERES, 

1098  CAMPO  SAN  GALLO.  ST.  MARE'S  SQUARE. 

Tourist  Office,  Agency  of  Maclver  Line,  Allan.  Pacific,  General  Transatlantic, 
and  most  Leading  Lines. 

NOTICE. — Tourists  purchasing  should  call  at  this  office  for  information  respecting  shops 
and  shipment  of  goods.  Reading-Rooms. 

STRAY  STUDIES  FROM  ENGLAND  AND  ITALY, 

By    JOHlSr    RICHARD    GREEN,    M.A. 
Pout    Sv«>.  Cloth,  $1.75. 

The  qualities  which  Mr.  Green's  history  evinces— learning,  poetic  sympathy,  common  sense, 
large  ideas,  a  genial  liking  for  mankind  in  general  —  appear  in  the  new  volume  of  ".Stray 
Studies."  Every  chapter  in  this  book  shows  the  thoroughness  of  work  and  culture  we  should 
have  expected.  The  range  of  thought,  sympathy,  and  knowledge  must  be  considerable  of  a  man 
who  discusses  with  equal  zest  and  interest  the  manners  of  the  poor  of  London,  the  resemblance 
between  Virgil  and  Tennyson,  the  Florence  of  Dante,  the  foibles  ot  British  tourists,  and  the 
charms  and  glories  of  the  British  maiden.  *  *  *  These  "Stray  Studies"  will  be  a  source  of  real 
pleasure  and  profit  to  all  who  read  them.  The  range  of  gifts  and  sympathies  they  show  is  indeed 
remarkable.—  N.  Y.  Times. 

PUBLISHED  BY  HARPER   &   BROTHERS,  NEW  YORK. 
HP*  Sent  by  mail,  postage  prepaid,  to  any  part  of  the  United  States,  on  receipt  of  the  price. 

44 


Venice.    Grand  Hotel  Royal  Danieli. 


Pala 


This  beaiuilul  lirst  rlu.--  ilut. -1  -  >  mated  on  the  (jranil  (.anal.  \vitti. u:>  lert  steps  ui  mi-  i.ogr  .< 
midce.  in  the  most  delightful  position  in  Venice.  It  contains  170  Chambers.  Saloons  for 
Conversation,  Smoking.  Heading,  and  Billiards.  All  Interpreter  will  be  luutid  at  lUe  station 
on  the  arrival  of  each  train.  GKXoVKSl  i  CAM  PI,  Proprietors. 

VE1STICE. 


TIIK   I;K.SIAI  HAM 


GRAND  HOTEL  D'lTALIE, 

Near  St.  Mark's  Square,  on  the  Grand  Canal,  racing  the  Church  of  St.  Maria  Salute.  Fresh  and 
Salt  \Vater  Baths  ready  at  all  hours.  Celebrated  lor  its  Restaurant  and  Vienna  He<;r  The  splen- 
did Restaurant  "Grunwald"  lielongs  to  the  same  proprietor.  RATER  (JKl'XWALl).  PROPRIETOR. 

45 


VENICE 


VENETIAN  LACE. 

M.  JESURUM  &  CO., 

MANUFACTURERS. 


Patronized  by  all  British  and  American  Visitors. 
Decorated  by  H.  R.  Majesty  the  King  of  Italy. 

VENETIAN  LACE  MANUFACTURERS, 

BY  APPOINTMENT,  TO  THE  KENSINGTON  MUSEUM. 

THE  SHOW  AND  WOEKING  EOOMS  MAY  BE  VISITED, 

FIXED  PRICES  IN  MARKED  FIGURES. 

OLD    LACE    BOUGHT    AND    SOLD. 

WHOLESALE  TRANSACTIONS. 

Campo  Ss.  Filippo  e  Giacomo  No.  4292, 


THE    BRIDOE    OF1    SIG-HS  ; 

AND  NO  OTHER  ADDRESS   OR   SHOP  IN  VENICE. 


Prizes  at  the  Royal  Institute  of  Sciences,  Letters,  and  Arts,  Paris, 
1878;  Melbourne,  1880;  and  Milan,  1881. 
46 


X 


GRAND  HOTEL  CONTINENTAL, 

Palais    Loria,  7   "Via   Manzoni. 

Opened  January.  1882.  Hydraulic  Lift;  Farquhar's  and  Oldham's  American  Filters;  greatly 
patt<oni««d  by  Americans;  the  nearest  to  Cathedral  and  centre  of  town 

Messrs.  M  VKI  M.   1.1  (,  N  \  M.  A   CO. 

GRAND  HOTEL  DE  MILAN, 

MILAN. 

Cor  so    del    O  u  a  i"  d  i  n  o. 

This  first-claps  Establishment  is  entirely  restored  by  the  new  proprietors,  and  fitted  tip 
in  the  most  comfortable  style.  It  contains  Two  Hundred  Rooms,  large  and  small  Apart- 
ments for  Families  and  single  srentlenien,  and  is  very  well  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  Kail- 
way  Stations,  Public  Uai'dehs.  Cathedral,  Theatre  Scala,  Picture  Gallery,  Ac,  Table  d'Hote, 
Breakfast.  Lunch,  and  Dinner  at  any  hour  at  fixed  prices,  or  &  la  carte.  Music  Saloon, 
Beading-Room,  Smoking-Room,  Hot  and  Cold  Baths.  Moderate  charges.  Lift  in  commn- 

J.  SPATX,  Proprietor. 


MILAN,  Italy: 


Hotel  Grande  Bretagne  &  Reichmann, 


Torino,    No. 


This  Hotel  has  been  greatly  enlarged  by  uniting  the  REICHMAXN  and  GRAN'D  BRETAGXE, 
and  entirely  refurnished  by  the  new  proprietors,  Messrs.  Rossi  &  AxnRosKTTi.  Apartments 
for  Families  and  single  gentlemen.  The  house  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  near  the 
Cathedral,  Theatres,  and  all  the  principal  places.  Table  d'Hote.  Galignani's  Messenger  taken. 
Several  languages  spoken.  The  House  is  only  two  stories  high,  and  five  minutes'  walk  from 
the  English  Church.  Brougham  and  Omnibus  to  meet  all  the  Trains. 


MADRID. 


GRAND  HOTEL  DE  LA  PAIX     Fucrta  del  Sol,  11  and  12. 

French  Cuisine:  Table  d'Hote  aiul  Private  Diiiinjr-Kooius  for  families;  Iteading-Konro  nppUed  with  foreign  n«< 
papers;  Baths  in  the  Hotel  at  all  hours:   Private  I'arriairf*.  lnter|m'ters,  £c 

Branch    House:      HOTEJL.    DE     J^ONDRK.S,   for   families. 

The  only  too  French  Betel*  in  Madrid.  M»M:S.  CAPUEVIKI.LE  &  CO..  PROHKIETORS. 


MADRID. 


FONDA  (HOTEL)  DE  PARIS, 

On  the  Puerta  del  Sol. 

Messrs.   FALLOLA   &    CO.,  Proprietors. 


SEVILLA. 

— 

FONDA  (HOTEL)  DE  PARIS. 

THE  BEST  HOTEL  IN  SEVILLA, 

Messrs.  FALLOLA    &    CO.,  Proprietors. 

48 


BRUSSELS. 


THE  GRAND  HOTEL 

Largest,  Finest,  and  Newest  Hotel 


IN  BRUSSELS. 


ON  THE   BOULEVARD  ANSPACH, 
\      \fJ 

The  Grand  Thoroughfare  of  Brussels. 

EQUIDISTANT  FEOM  THE  TWO  STATIONS, 


BRUSSELS. 


ROYAL  LACE  MANUFACTORY. 


BO  VII,   DE    BUCK, 

RTJE      ROY^LE,     74. 


One  of  the  Oldest-Established  and  Largest  Lace  Houses  in  Brussels.  Price  of 
every  Article  marked  in  Plain  Figures.  Medals  and  Diplomas  .-it  numerous  Ex- 
hibitions. Dresses,  Shawls,  Flounces,  Tippets,  Collars,  Head-Dresses,  Fans,  Parasols, 
Handkerchiefs,  &c. 

N.  IJ.  —  Strangers  are  respectfully  requested  to  visit  the  Workrooms. 

BRUSSElS^GRAND  HOTEL  DE  SAXE. 

English.    House,    77    and.    79    Rue    Neuve. 

Admirably  situated  near  the  Boulevards,  Theatres,  and  in  two  minulf*'  walk  from  the  North 
Railway  Station.  This  House  offers  to  Families,  Tourists,  and  Merchants  every  Comfort,  and 
Spacious,  Comfortable,  and  Airy  Apartments.  Moderate  Prices.  Tariffs  in  every  Room.  English 
Daily  Newspapers.  Table  d'HAte  at  Five  and  Half-past  Six  o'clock. 

Waterloo  Coach  leaves  the  Hotel  every  Morning  at  9.30.     M.  GRADKR-MKURISSE,  Proprietor 


COIIEUE. 


FIRST-CLASS  HOUSE.     THE   LARGEST  AND    OLDEST  L\    THE    TOWN. 
FINE  GARDEN.     OMNIBUS  AT  THE  TRAINS. 


.  VAN   DEN    Hi  l«.lli:,  Proprietor. 


BRUSSELS. 


HOTEL  DU  GRAND  MONARQUE. 

Favorite  House,  with  Moderate  Charges,  in  the  centre  of  the  City 
(Rue  des  Fripiers).  Close  to  all  Attractions.  Excellent  Cuisine, 
Wines,  and  Table  cTffote.  Garden  Court. 

Mademoiselle  E,  WAUTEES,  Proprietress, 

GHENT    (GAND). 

HOTEL  ROYAL. 

Situated  in  the  centre  of  the  City,  on  the  Place  d'Arraes.  Con- 
tiguous to  all  Public  Establishments  and  Railway  Station.  Travellers 
will  find  every  comfort  at  this  Hotel,  and  experience  prompt  atten- 
tion from  the  attendants.  Arrangements  made  with  Families  at  very 
Moderate  Prices  during  the  Winter  Season. 

Spa— HOTEL  D'ORANGE^ 

NEXT  DOOR  TO  THE  CASINO, 
AND  CLOSE  TO  THE  BATHS  AND  "POUHON." 

N".  33.— The    Proprietor,    Madame    IMULLER,,    speaks    English. 

SPA.-GRAND  HOTEL  DE  I/EUROPE. 

FIRST-CLASS    HOUSE. 

Close  to  tlie  English  Church,  Casino,  and  Springs, 

III<:MCAKI>-KI<  llAicn,  Proprietor. 

LIEGE.— HOTEL^DE  L'EUROPE. 

The  Best  and  Oldest-Established  Hotel  in  the  Town, 
IN  THE  FINEST  SITUATION,  AND  CLOSE  TO  THE  STATION. 

OSTEND.-HOTEL  FONTAINE. 

Universal  Reputation.     The  Largest  and  Best  in  Ostend.     OPEN 
ALL  THE  YEAR  ROUND.     Dining-Room  for  200  Covers.     Pict- 
ure-Gallery.     Ladies',   Reading,   Smoking,   Music,   and    Conversation 
Rooms.     Charges  Moderate. 
50 


BELGIUM.]      8  PA.      [BELGIUM. 


CHALYBEATE  WATERS. 

Tie  Most  Ancient,  ani  tie  Richest  in  Iron,  in  the  World 


Season  from  May  1st  to  October  31st, 

SPLENDID  NEW  BATHING  ESTABLISHMENT, 

With  Mineral  or  Fresh  Water  Baths,  Douches, 
Vapor  Baths,  &c. 

Eir,HT  SOURCES  RENOWNED   FOR  THEIR  EFFICACY  IN  CASES  OF  DK- 

BILITY,  CHLOROSIS,  CONSUMPTION,  STERILITY,  MALADIES  OF  THE 

STOMACH,  MALADIES  OF  CHILDREN,  THE  EYES,  GRAVEL,  «fec. 

MAGNIFICENT  CASINO. 

CONVERSATION,  READING,  AND  CARD  ROOMS. 

Balls  and  Evening  Dances,  Theatre,  Day  and  Evening  Concerts,  Fetes 
of  all  descriptions. 

FIRST-CLASS  HOTELS,  RESTAURANTS,  AND  CAFES. 

Hunting,  Fishing,  Shooting,  Riding  -Horses,  Splendid  Races,  Steeple- 
chases.   Salubrity  of  the  Climate  proverbial.    Celebrated  Sites 
and  Walks  in  the  neighborhood.     Direct  Commu- 
nication by  rail  with  all  parts  of  Europe. 

TELEGRAPH. 

IT.B. — For  all  information  required,  American  travellers  are  requested  to  apply  to 
the  Direction  of  the  Casino  and  of  the  Fetes  of  Spa. 

51 


BRUSSELS. 

[fluiiJJla 


HOTEL  DE  SUEDE. 


Among  tie  oldest,  lest,  and  most  renowned  in  Belgium, 
telf  w 

CENTRE     OE    THE     CITY 

(RUE  DE   I/EVEQUE). 

Apartments    most    comfortable. 

Excellent    Cuisine- 

Celebrated    "Wine-  Cellar. 

Mr.  VAN  CUTSEM,  Proprietor. 

OSTEND. 


Mr.  L.  DEL    BOUILLE, 

BANKER, 

Ostend  House,  1O  .Ave.  Leopold. 

PROPRIETOR  OF  THE 

Building  Sites  of  "  New  Ostend." 

N.  B.— Mr.  DEL  BOUILLE,  who  speaks  English  fluently,  places  himself  at 
the  disposal  of  all  travellers  or  foreigners  for  reliable  local  information  or 
advice. 

52 


OSTEND. 

The  Season  at  this  most  beautiful 
nnd  most  frequented  Sea-side  Water- 
ing Place,  the  summer  residence  of 
Their  Majesties  the  King  and  Queen 
of  the  Belgians,  is  open  from  June  to 
October. 

NEW  AND  MAGNIFICENT 
KURSAAL.  Daily  Concert,  Two 
Orchestras.  Soirees  Dansantes  and 
Grand  Balls.  Regattas,  Pigeon- 
Shooting,  Races,  Fishing,  Skating- 
Rink,  Festivals,  Theatre,  Casino, 
Park  Leopold.  Sea  Bathing  under 
Municipal  Administration. 

Regular  Steam  Communication 
with  London  and  Dover.  Distance 
from  Paris  8  hours  by  rail. 


53 


HOTEL  CONTINENTAL, 

OPPOSITE  THE  BATHS. 

Magnificent  First-Class  House  of  200  Beds,  facing  the  Sea.     Ele- 
gant Restaurant  (Terrace).     Lift.     Next  to  the  Casino. 

V.  HICHENS,  Proprietor. 

BrusseTs^RESTAURANT  DESTROVENCAUX, 

40  EUE  EOYALE,  OPPOSITE  THE  PARK, 

Near  the  Royal  Palace,  the  Ministries,  the  Palace  of  Justice,  and  Theatres.     First-class  Estab- 
lishment with  Private  Rooms  and  Saloons,  and  Service  d  la  Carte,  and  at  Fixed  Prices. 

V.  FONTEYNE. 

OSTEND.— HOTEL    DU    PHARE, 

On  the  Sea-Dike,  opposite  the  Estacades,  and  near  to  the  Kursaal. 
Large  and  Small  Apartments.     Table  d'Hote  and  Restaurant  a  la  Carte,  and  at 
Fixed  Prices.     House  of  the  First  Order.     Excellent  Wine-Cellar. 
E.    BILLIARD. 

0  STE  N  D  ,-H  OTErTETFPL  A  G  E, 

First-class  and  Best-Patronized  Hotel  and  Restaurant  in  Ostend. 
Beautiful  Position  on  the  New  Dike,  facing  the  Sea,  and  close  to  the  Casino. 
H,.   THOJYLA.,    Proprietor, 


AMSTEL  HOTEL,  Amsterdam,  Holland, 

I 


II.  \ICri-:  1C*     PHRASIi-BOOK. 


Harper's  Phrase-Book;  or,  Hand-Book  of  Travel-Talk  for  Travellers  and  Schools.  Being  a  Guide 
to  Conversation  in  English,  French,  German,  and  Italian,  on  a  New  and  Improved  Method. 
Intended  to  accompany  "Harper's  Hand-Book  for  Travellers.'1  By  W.  PEMBROKE  FETRIDGB, 
assisted  by  Professors  of  Heidelberg  University.  With  concise  and  explicit  Rules  for  the  Pro- 
nunciation of  the  different  Languages.  Square  4to,  Flexible  Cloth,  $1.50. 
HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  NEW  YORK. 

t&~  Sent,  carriage  paid,  to  any  part  of  the  United  States  or  Canada,  on  receipt  of  the  price. 

54 


BRUSSELS. 

HOTEL  DE  L'UNIVERS. 

ELEGANT,  FIRST-CLASS  HOUSE, 

Situated    in.    the    Centre    of   the    City,    bet-ween,    the    Two 
Itailway    Stations. 

Close  Proximity  to  the  Theatres  and  Boulevards, 

Entirely   refitted,  with   Garden   and   adjoining  Parlors,  Reading  and 
Smoking -Rooms. 

WATERLOO   COACH  AT   9.30   A. TO. 

Entrance  on  the  Boulevard  du  Nord. 


Madame    SCHOEFFTER-WIERTZ,   Proprietor. 


HflTFT  IM  PAV<! 
tiL   ILo  lAlo 


Large,    Spacious,    Moderate   Priced. 
TAN  DEN  BRINK,  Proprietor. 


HAARLEM— HOTEL     FUNCKLER. 

BKST     HOUSE. 

For  years  patronized  by  English  and  American  Travellers. 

CLOSE   TO   THE   STATION,  IX   THE   KRUISTRAAT. 
P.  C.  C.  JACOBI,  Proprietor. 


THE  HAGUE,-  HOTEL  BELLEVUE, 

First-Class,  Old-Established,  Favorite  House  with  English  and  Americans.  Op- 
posite the  Royal  Park  and  the  Rhine  Railway  Station.  Beautiful  Garden,  and 
T'nsurpasscil  Situation.  C.  J.  VAN  VELSEN,  PROPRIETOR. 

A MSTERDAM.-HOTKL  KRASXOPOLSKY 

AND   CAFE  RESTAURANT. 

WARMOI-SSTKAAT    (close  to  the  Dam). 

One  of  the  Sights  of  Amsterdam. 

55 


HOTEL  ST.  

Brussels.  -  HOTEL    M ENCELLE. 


HISTORICAL  STUDIES  OF  CHURCH -BUILDING 

IN    THE    MIDDLE    AGES.      Venice,  Siena,  Florence.      By    CHARLES 
ELIOT  KOKTON.     8vo,  Cloth,  $3.00. 

PUBLISHED  BY  HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  NEW  YOKK. 

f3F~  Sent  by  mail,  postage  prepaid,  to  any  part  of  the  United  States,  on  receipt  of  the  price. 


CENTRAL  HOTEL.  BERLIN. 


Facing  the  Central  Railway  Station  (Kriedrichsin^si-i.  (ieurgeu  Street,  Friedricbs  Street, 
Dorotheen  Street. 


The  "Central  Hotel"  has  been  enlarged  by  a  Dependance  containing  100  Rooms  and 

Saloons,  recently  fitted  with  all  desirable  modern  comfort. 
The  most  agreeable  and  comfortable  habitation  which  7i»-li/t  can  offer  to  Foreigners. 

This  unrivalled  Establishment,  in  which  sumptuous  comfort  is  com- 
bined with  every  possible  attention,  is 

THE   LARGEST  HOTEL  IN   GERMANY, 

PATRONIZED  BY  THE  HIGHEST  CLASS  OF  AMERICAN  TRAVELLERS. 

600  Bedrooms  and  Saloons  from  3  Marks. 

The  price  published  in  every  Room  includes  Heating,  Service,  Light,  and 
Free  Admission  to  the  Daily  Concerts  in  the  Winter  Garden. 

Dining-Room,  Restaurant  a  la  Carte,  Reading-Room,  Ladies'  Room. 

Most  popular  POLITICAL  and  ILLUSTRATED  PAPERS  of  all  the  World. 
60  English  and  American  Papers. 

LIBRARY.— Selection  of  EiiL'lish.  German,  French.  Italian,  Spanish,  and  Russian  Authors. 
Directories  of  ail  the  important  Towns  of  the  whole  World. 

LIST  OF  TRAVKm-RS  (IF  KYKKY  BATH  AM)  \VATKRI.\G  I'LACl-  OF  EUROPE. 


ELECTRIC    LIGHT. 

Breakfast  (Dejeuner  a  la  fourchette)  from  12  to  2  o'clock,  at  21  Marks. 
Table  d'Hote  at  5  o'clock,  at  3  Marks. 


BATHS    ON    EVERT    FLOOR. 

THREE  LIFTS  of  the  latest  and  best  construction  communicate  with  every  floor. 

BUREAU  of  the  INTERNATIONAL  SLEEPING  CARS'  Company, 

Railway  Tickets,  Luggage  registered. 

POST  AND  TELEGRAPH  OFFICES   IN  THE    HOTEL. 

BUREAU  FOR  INFORMATION  AND  THEATRICAL  OFFICE. 

TELEPHONE    IN    THE    HOTEL. 

Large,  sumptuous  Winter  Garden  (Crystal  Palace)  for  2500  Persons. 
Purinir  the  \\intcr  scaxrn  advantairrinis 

BOARDING      ARRANGEMENTS 
are  made.     Particulars  at  our  Chief  Office. 

57 


COLOGNE.     HOTEL    DU    NORD. 


The  only  first-clase  Hotel  contiguous  to  the  Central  Station,  the  Cathedral,  mid  the  Rhine.  300  Roon.n  nn<l 
fc»loon«.  Fine  view  over  the  Kliine.  Garden  and  Baths.  French  Cook.  On, minxes  at  every  train.  Sale  of  rti.  .ii-e 
Ulilu  •  Wine*  for  exportation,  &c.  Tariffs  in  every  room.  Hot  ami  Cold  Biitlix  in  tin-  Hotel.  Over  45,00)  vi*itr..ii 
Mop  :it  tliis  Hotel  vearly.  Post  and  Telegraph  Office.  RAILWAY  TICKETS  AM>  U'l.GACE  ItKf.ISTKIFU  In 
ANY  IIESTIXATIOX  IN  THE  HOTE!..  Proprietor.  Mr.  FKIF.DKIC11,  Purveyor  iu  Ithiue  Win  s  to  the  Kinder  .r 
uf  uunuunj,  &c.,  and  Proprietor  of  the  celebrated  TAl'XfS  Ml.vEUAl.  WATEK. 

COLOONK. 

JOHN  MARIA   FARINA, 

OPPOSITE    THE    JULICHS-PLACE, 
The  Most  Ancient  Distiller  of  the 

EAU    DE    COLOGNE    SINCE    17O9. 

Purreyor  to  their  Majesties  the  Queen  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  the  King  of  Prussia,  the 
Emperor  of  Austria,  the  Emperor  of  all  the  Kussius,  H.K.H.the  Prince  of  Wales,  Ac., Ac. 

PRIZE   MEDALS    IN    LOXDOX.  1851   AND   1862;    HOXORABLE    MEXTION    IX   PARIS,  lH.r).'>; 

PRIZE  MEDAL  IX  PARIS,  18fi7,  AND  VIEXXA,  1873. 

f>\  /*  TTrpT/NWT  — With  regard  to  the  groat  number  of  manufactures  of  a  so-called 
W.LJL.L)  A.  XLPJtM  •  Eau  de  Cologne  carried  on  by  people  who. have  succeeded  in  get- 
t  ug  a  firm  of  FARIXA  in  order  to  be  able  to  sell  their  article,  it  is  of  particular  necessity  to 
caution  persons  who  are  desirous  to  purchase  my  genuine  Eau  de  Cologne  to  direct  letters  to  my 
exact  address:  JOHANN  MARIA  FARINA,  CJEGKNUBKK  DKM  JCI.ICHS-PLATZ  (which  means  opposite  the 
.1  iilichs  Place),  COLOGNE  (without  addition  of  any  number). 

Travellers  visiting  Cologne,  and  intending  to  buy  my  genuine  article,  are  cautioned  against 
being  led  astray  by  cabmen,  guides,  commissioners,  and  other  parties  who  offer  tlieir  services  to 
them.  I  therefore  bog  to  state  that  my  manufactory  and  shop  are  in  the  same  house,  situated 
O:'POSITK  the  .lulichs  i-lare.  anil  nowhere  else.  It  happens  frequently  that  th*  said  persons  con- 
duct the  nuinstriicted  strangers  to  shops  of  one  of  the  fictitious  firms,  where,  notwithstanding  as- 
sertion to  the  contrary,  they  are  remunerated  with  nearly  half  of  the  price  paid  by  the  purchaser, 
who.  of  course,  must  pay  indirectly  this  remuneration  by  a  high  price  and  a  bad  article. 

Another  kind  of  imposition  is  practised  in  almost  every  hotel  in  Cologne— where  waiters, 
comnvss:oners.  &c ..  offer  to  strangers  Eau  de  Cologne,  pretending  that  it  is  the  genuine,  and  that 
I  had  furnished  it  for  the  purpose  <>f  selling  it  for  my  account.  The  Eau  de  Cologne  shops  oppo 
site  the  Cathedral  have  no  connection  with  me. 

The  only  certain  way  to  get  in  Cologne  my  genuine  article  is  to  buy  it  personally  in  my  own 
house,  OPPOSITE  THE  JULICUS-PLACK.  JOH.4IV1V  IflAUIA  FAKINA, 

COLOGSB,  January,  1883.  (...(.l.MHKR   DEM    Jui.ICHS  Pl.ATZ. 


AIX-LA-CHAPBLLE. 


HOTEL  DU  GRAND  IIOXAKQIK. 

This  ^fagnificent  and  Ijirge  Hotel,  for  families  and  single  travellers,  continues  to  maintain  its 
F,uroi>ean  reputation  for  being  the  favored  residence  of  travellers  of  all  nations.  The  Proprietor, 
Mr.  KKITZ  DKKMKI..  obtaine<l  this  unusual  patronage  l>y  tin-  extreme  cleanliness  and  the  comfort 
of  his  apartments,  the  richness  and  excellence  of  the  viands  aud  wines,  added  to  the  attention 
and  civility  of  the  attendants.  Table  d'Hote  at  2  and  6  o'clock. 

HOTEL  NUELLENS.  — Proprietor,  Mr.  G.  F.  DRKMKF..  Opposite  the 
Fountain  Klisu,  and  situated  in  the  most  fashionable  part  of  the  City.  Has  great  attractions  to 
tourists  and  travellers.  This  house  possesses  excellent  accommodation  for  single  persons  or 
large  families,  and  the  cuisine  department  will  afford  satisfaction  to  the  most  fastidious  taste. 
Table  d'Hote  at  0  o'clock.  Extract  from  the  18th  Edition  of  "Murray's  Handbook:"  "This 
Hotel,  in  the  best  situation,  is  recommended  as  capital." 

KAISEKBAD  HOTEL  (liAixs  DK  I/EMPKUEUR).— This  new  and  splen- 
did Bathing  Establishment  has  been  recently  fitted  up  in  the  most  comfortable  and  elegant 
manner.  The  principal  spring  of  Aix  rises  in  the  Hotel  itself. 

THE    NEUBAI)    HOTEL.  — New  Bath,  attached  to  the  Hotel,  also 

belongs  to  .Mr.  OKKMKI.;  it  has  extensive  accommodation. 

Mr.  DKEMEL,  the  well-known  Landlord  of  the  "  Grand  Monarqno," 

••  Neuliad."  and  ••  Xuellens  "  Hotels,  is  also  Proprietor  of  the  "Kaiserbad  Hotel."  :uid  personally 
superintends  the  management  of  the  four  establishments  Mr.  DRF.MEL  spares  no  expense  or 
efforts  to  render  the  accommodation  of  these  superior  first  class  Hotels  preferable  to  all  others. 
The  combination  in  one  hand  of  four  establishments  of  such  magnitude  enables  the  proprietor  to 
afford  suii.ii.le  accommodation  "  at  all  prices."  These  establishments  are  especially  arranged 
for  Winter  Cures. 


WIESBADEN,  Baths  of.-FOUR  SEASONS  HOTEL  and  BATH-HOUSE. 

, 


lio  Tl  I.    QI  ATRE    SAISONS   and    lloi  I   I.    ZAIS. 

ABBA.XiKMEMS  FOK  U1MEU  KKSIDKX  K.  WX.  ZUS,  Proprietor. 

BINGEN.-HOTELYICTORIA. 

Beautiful  Position  on  the  Banks  of  the  Rhine;  Ternu-e.  Opposite  the  Na- 
tional Monument,  "German  ia."  Close  to  Station  and  Steamboat  La  n  din-,'.  Ar- 
rangements for  Pi-olongud  Stay.  J  H  SOHERR,  Proprietor. 

HOTEL   BELLEVUE,  Dresden. 

' 


Situated  on  the  Hiver  Elbe,  facin-r  the  New  Opera  -House,  the  Galleries,  the  Green 
Vaults,  CnthPilMl.  and  Hruhl's  Terraci!. 

\Vell-kn,  .wu,  flrs!-clas<  EMublishment,  with  150  rooms. 

Families  desirous  of  taking  apartments  for  the  winter  can  make  arrangement*  at  very 
moderate  prices.  59 


EMS  (Baths  of). 

Season  Opens  May  1st— Closes  in  Mid-Octobef, 

MINERAL    SPRINGS 

(Chloride  of  Sodium,  23°— 4°  Reaumur). 

Springs,  Baths,  &c.,  of  old-established  celebrity  against  Chronic  Catarrh  of  the 
Respiratory  and  Digestive  Organs,  Congestion  of  the  Liver,  Formation  of  Stone  in 
the  Bladder,  Gout,  Gravel,  Incipient  Bright's  Disease,  Diabetes. 

Sovereign  in  the  treatment  of  Dyspepsia,  and  in  thousands  of  cases  proved  to 
be  most  efficacious  in  the  treatment  of  Sterility,  and  a  quantity  of  affections  of 
the  Womb  and  Uterus. 

During  the  Season  daily  Military  and  Artists'  Concerts  in  the  Park  and  Kur- 
saal;  German  and  French  Theatres;  Balls  and  Reunions.  Abundantly  supplied 
Reading-Room ;  Conversation  Rooms.  Railway  Station;  Post  and  Telegraph  Of. 
fices. 

One  Hour  by  Rail  from   Coblentz. 

For  any  particulars,  address 

THE  ROYAL  PRUSSIAN  KUR-DIRECTION. 


EMS—  HOTEL  AND  BATHS  FOUR  TOWERS. 

First-Class,  Quiet,  and  Aristocratic. 

In  the  Park,  close  to  the  Kursaal,  and  connected  with  the  Koyal  Baths. 
Madame  WE.  BECKER   Proprietor. 


HOTKL  ROYAL,  BONN.—  This  excellent  Hotel,  one  of  the  best  on  the  Continent, 

*~*  patronized  by  King  Leopold  of  the  Belgians  ami  by  the  Koyal  Family  of  England  :  and  recently  the  Prince 
•nd  Princess  of  Walet,  tho  Princes  Alfred  ami  Arthur,  have  faTored  this  Hotel  with  their  visit  ;  and  the  Proprietor 
has  been  honored  with  the  household  of  the  Prinee  Alf.-.-d  during  ill  •  time  <>  I'  his  study  at  B-.nn 

This  Hotel  is  charmingly  situated  on  the  banks  of  tli,-  JJhine.  r  mmands  tin-  nmsl  beautiful  view  of  th>-  -  • 
Mountains,  facing  the  landing-place  of  the  Khine  Steamers,  an  I  ii">r  the  Railway  siation.  This  Hotel  combines  ev- 
ery comfort  with  moderate  charges  ;  ami  its  situation  is  s  ,  r..nvenieiit  that  Travelers  will  find  it  a  highly  agreeable 
place  of  residence  or  of  temporary  sojourn,  t"  whi.'h  a  splendid  garden  of  four  acres  long,  laid  out  in  the  F.ngli-h 
style,  will  grentlv  contribute.  For  families  or  -ingle  p-r>ons  dei.ir.us  to  stay  for  the  wintT  th  •  u,o«t  advantageous  ur- 
rangvnent  can  lie  made  f..r  h-anl  and  loil_-!n  ,-  Table  d'hote  at  hall  |..i-t  i  un  I  :i  .'e:..ek  M.-.  E1.2IKKIKI..  IV-i 


WIESBADEN—  RHINE  HOTEL  AND  BATH. 

FIRST-CLASS     HOUSE, 
OPPOSITE  BAILWAY  STATIONS,  POST,  AND  TELEGEAPH. 

BEArTiFCL  WINTER  GARDES.     WINTER  PENSION. 
Proprietor,    ^Ir.    MOZIOIX",    "Wine    ^Merchant. 


First-Class  House,  of  European  Eeputation, 

BEKTHOM)  FAMILY,  Proprietors.         Mr.  SAEGMtLLER,  Director. 

60 


EMS. 


HOTEL  D'ANGLETERRE 

(Englischer  Hof  ). 

Old  Renowned,  First-Class  House.     Largest  in  Ems.     Beautiful  Po- 
sition, opposite  Royal  Baths,  close  to  the  Casino.     Beautiful  Garden. 


HOTEL  BEAU  RIVAGrE. 

Beautiful    Position,    facing    the    Sea, 

ON  THE  MONACO  ROAD. 

Fine,  First-Class   House,  close  to   Casino.     Arrangements  for  Pro- 
longed Stay.  F.  SCHMITT,  Proprietor. 


HOTEL  DE  PARIS,  STRASBURG,  GERMANY. 

Mr.  Rufenacht.  Proprietor  of  this  unrivalled  Ks!aM:shment.  respectfully  offers  hi?  grateful  ncknowl- 
eilifinenlsto  the  English  Nobility  and  (;  entry  for  their  continued  pat  ronage.and  a  vails  himself  of  this 
invasion  to  assure  TraveUera  visiting  Strasbourg  (bal  m«  eii'i  <r\*  will  be  spared  on  his  pun  ; 
tln'ir  sojourn  at  the  above  Hotel  both  comfortable  and  satisfactory.  ChargM  moderate.  Breakfast, 
Fable  d'Hote  at  1  o'clock.  :J  fr. .  and  at  (>  o'clock.  4  fr.  Rreakfa.*t  and  Dinners  a  la  carte 
at  all  priivs  iioom.-  from  1  fr  .''He  to  4fr..  lisrhts  inrludeil.  /'fnf'<»i  from  f,  fr.  to  s  fr.  per  day. 

Slrasburg-HOTEL  D'ANGLETERRE, 

Large,  First-Class  House,  opposite  Central  Station. 

NEAR  CATHEDRAL,  POST  AND   TELEGRAPH  OFFIC'IIS. 

C.    MATH  IS,    Proprietor. 
5  61 


KREUZNACH  (Baths  of),  GERMANY, 

HOTEL  AND  RESTAURANT  IN  CONNECTION, 

Open  the  1st  of  May. 

Saline  Springs  of  Iodine  and  Bromine.  Romantic  En- 
virons. Healthy  Climate.  Mineral  Baths  in  all  the  Ho- 
tels and  Private  Boarding-Houses,  through  Pipes  from 
the  Springs.  Drinking  Cure  at  the  Elizabeth  Spring, 
with  New  Drinking-Hall.  Inhalation,  Douches,  and  Vapor 
Baths.  All  the  Agreeable  Attributes  of  a  First-Class 
Bathing  -  Place.  Splendid  Band  (Manssfeld  Orchestra), 
Concerts,  Reunions,  Theatre,  Fireworks,  and  Regattas. 
Reading-Room,  with  Newspapers  in  all  Languages. 

Direct  CniraM  ij  Rail  il  all  the  Principal  Cities. 

For  further  information,  apply  to  the 

Direction  of  the  Baths,  Kreuznach. 

SCHWALBAOI    (Baths   of), 

IN   THE    TAtJNCS,   PRUSSIAN    PROVINCE    OF    HESSE-NASSAH. 

The  Strongest,  Clear,  Iron  Springs,  with  Rich  Quantity  of  Carbonic  Acid.  Mud  Baths.  300 
Metres  above  the  Sea.  Beautiful  Bathing  Installation.  Renowned  for  cases  of  Poverty  of  Blood 
and  Consequent  Diseases.  Railway  Stations  :  Wiesbaden.  Zollhaus,  and  Eltville.  Omnibus  and 
direct  Railway  Tickets.  Season  from  May  10th  to  Oct.  1st. 

SCHAVALBACH.— HOTEL  ALLEESAAL 

FIRST  AM)  LARGEST  HOUSE  SINCE  1796.     CLOSE  TO  KLRSAAL. 

Arrangements  for  Stay,  Villa,  &c. 

F.    G-REBERT    SO1STS,    Proprietors. 

SCHLANGENBAD    (Baths  of) 

Old.  Renowned  Baths  (26°  R.).  Efficacious  in  Nervous  Diseases,  Women's  Complaints,  Gout 
and  Rheumatism,  Scrofula,  Diseases  of  Skin,  Bad  Complexion,  &c.  High-Situated  Forest  Cure. 
\v  th  Miles  of  Dustless  Walks.  Royal  Milk-Cure  Establishment  (fioats'  and  Cows'  Milk).  Railway 
Stations,  Wiesbadon  and  Eltville  ;  Diligence  from  Eltville  and  Schwalbach.  Till  May.  and  from 
beginning  of  September.  Reduction  in  Price  of  Rooms. 


SCHLANGENBAD,    HOTEL  VICTORIA, 

OPPOSITE    NEW    BATH-HOUSE. 

First-Class.     Charges  Moderate   and  Pension.     Boar  and   Deer  Hunting,  and 
good  Trout  Fishing.  W.  WINTER,  Proprietor. 

62 


\vn:-it  \in:v  v  i«» \ri:it  HOP. 


HOTEL  AND  VILLA  NASSAU. 


In  a  Beautiful  Position  opixisile  the  Curhaus.  Proim-mulo,  Colonnade  (Theatre  to  the  Side), 
anil  close  to  the   Kochbniiincii.      Kli-sjantly   i.'omlix-t'M    I',  ill.-  (S',i-ini;<  in    rlpusAi,  KI-"-i- 
Table  d'Hote  at  1  and  5.     Large,  Quiet,  and    Elegantly    Furul»licd  Villa, 

lor  I'ainilies  for  Prolonged  Stay 

WIESBAI>EN. 


HOTEL   ET    BAINS    DE    LA  ROSE. 

HAEKKN-ER,    13  KO^.,     PROPTCIKTORS. 

HOT  AND  COLD  MINERAL  BATHS.    THIS  FIRST-CLASS  HIM  SK  IS  BEAUTIFULLY  SITU- 
ATED IN  ITS  OWN  GROUNDS.     «-  CLOSE  TO  THE  KURSAAL. 

63 


HOMBURG  (BATHS  OF), 


Near  Frankfort-on-the-Main. 


The  Homburg  Waters  are  very  salutary  in  Diseases  of  the  Stomach 
and  Liver,  and  attacks  of  the  Gout.  Unrivaled  Summer  Climate.  The 
mountains'  pure  and  bracing  air  contributes  largely  to  invigorate  the 
system,  and  is  very  beneficent  in  Nervous  Affections.  Mineral,  Cold, 
and  Warm  Baths;  Pine  Baths.  Whey  Cure. 

Excellent  Orchestra,  Regimental  Bands,  Grand  Balls,  Reunions,  Illuminations, 
Theatre,  Concerts  given  by  celebrated  artists.  Children's  and  Rustic  Fetes. 
Races.  Lawn  Tennis.  Cricket  and  Croquet.  Shooting  and  Fishing. 

Comfortable  Hotels  and  Private  Houses  at  moderate  prices.  Magnificent  Kur- 
haus.  Splendid  Ladies'  Conversation  and  Reading  Rooms,  Cafe,  Billiards,  with 
the  well-known  Restaurant.  Close  by  the  Kurhaus  vast  and  beautiful  Park,  with 
Orangery.  Delicious  Walks  and  Carriage  Drives.  Charming  Environs. 

THE  SEASON  LASTS  THE  WHOLE  YEAR. 
ROTTERDA.M. 


HOTEL    VICTORIA. 

First-class  House,  on  the  Qnai,  near  the  Park.    Favorite  of  American  Travelers.   American 
and  English  Newspapers.    Comfort  and  Satisfaction  insured  by  the  Personal  Sn  pen  n  Tend- 
ance of  the  !>roprietor,    M/r.    TYSSFITST. 
64 


HOMBURGL 


HOTEL  BELLE  -VUE. 

Opposite  the  Knrsaal,  near  the  Springs.  _  H.  ELLENBERGEB,  Proprietor. 

WILPBAT). 

HOTEL^KLUMPP. 


.    "W:\I.    IvLTJAIPP,    Proprietor. 

Tills  First  Class  Hotel  —  containing  45  Saloons  and  235  Bedrooms,  with  a  separate  Breakfast 
and  new  Reading  and  Conversation  Rooms,  as  well  as  a  Smoking  Saloon,  and  a  very  extensive 
and  elegant  Piniug-Room,  an  artificial  Garden  over  the  river  —  is  s  mated  opposite  the  Bath  and 
Conversation  Houses,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Promenade.  It  is  celebrated  for  its 
Elegant  and  Comfortable  Apartments.  «;o>»d  Cuisine  and  Cellar,  and  deserves  its  wide  -  spread 
reputafoii  a*  an  Kxrellent  Hotel.  Table  d  Mote  at  one  and  live  o'clock;  Breakfasts  and  Suppers 
a  la  carte.  Exchange  uni  ,-.  Corres|>ondenl  of  the  principal  Hanking  Houses  of  Ixmdon  for  the 
payment  of  Circular  Notes  and  letters  of  Credit,  omnibuses  of  the  Hotel  to  and  from  each 
train;  line  1'rivate  Carr.ages  when  requested.  Excellent  Accommodation. 

Heidelberg.  —  Grand  Hotel. 

Splendid  Situation.  Magnificent  View  from  42  Balconies.  O|ii.osiic  liaihvay 
Station  and  Promenade.  English  Iloim.1  Comforts  and  Moderate  Clia 

Proprietor,    EMIL    THO-MA. 

LATK    MANAGER  VICTORIA    HOTEL.  VENICE. 


HOTEL  KRONPRINZ, 

OPPOSITE  THE  ROYAL  PALACE. 

JULIUS   AMMOr,  Proprietor. 

65 


Heidelberg.— Hotel  Prince  Charles. 


HOTEL  NEAREST  TO  THE  CASTLE—  eight  minutes'  walk  only—  and  two 
minutes'  walk  from  the  Neckar  Bridge.  It  has  the  view  of  the  Ruins  from  nearly  all  its  windows 
and  balconies.  Lately  considerably  enlarged  by  a  new  wing,  containing,  besides  a  number  of  Bath- 
Rooms,  a  splendid  Dining-Room,  Breakfast-Room,  Reading-  1-  com,  and  Smoking-Room.  «_^pj 

This  first-class  Family  Hotel  —  patronized  by  their  Royal  Highnesses  the  Prince  and  Princess 
of  Wales  and  Prince  Alfred  —  is  without  question  the  largest  and  best  situated  Establishment  in  the 
town  for  Families  and  Tourists  who  nre  visiting  merely  the  celebrated  Castle,  or  for  making  a 
longer  stay,  being  near  all  the  attractive  points,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  Castle. 

The  Hotel  is  conducted  on  the  most  liberal  scale,  under  the  personal  superintendence  of  the 
Proprietors,  ;U«-.ssrs.  SOUOIER  &  ELLMEK. 


The  Nearest  First-Class  Hotel  to  the  Station. 


HOTEL  SCHRIEDER. 

Fine  large  Garden.     Beautiful  view  of  the  Castle.     First-class  Kitchen  and  very  good  Wines. 
Pension  during  the  whole  year.    Light  and  Service  not  charged.     Proprietor,  WILH.  BACK  WWK. 

66 


BADEN-BADEN. 

Old  Renowned  Alkaline  Chlor,  Sod,  Springs  of  44-69°  C, 
Chlor,  Lithium  Spring  of  Preponderous  Contents, 

NEW  GRAND  DUCAL  BATHING  ESTABLISHMENT, 

"THE  FREDEPxIC  BATHS." 

A  model  institntion,  unique  for  its  perfection  and  elegance.  Tub  Baths,  Russian  Vapor 
Baths,  Turkish  Baths,  Electric  Baths,  so-called  "  Vildbtider"  (thermal  water  constantly 
running.  Sw:inminsr  Baths,  Rooms  for  Cold  Water  Treatment,  Inhalation  of  Pul- 
verized Mineral  Water,  Douches  for  the  Larynx,  Pneumatic  Apparatus,  Douches 
of  all  Konns  and  Temperature,  Medicinal  Baths  of  every  description.  Private  Medical 
Institutions,  with  Thermal  Baths;  Pump-Room,  with  the  "Mineral  Waters  of  all  the  most 
renowned  Springs;  Whey  and  Milk  Cures;  Spring  Cures  with  the  Juice  of  Herhs;  Autumn 
Cure*  \vith  excellent  (ir:i|»J> 

•|li»-  Conversation  -House,  with  its  splendid  Concert,  Ball,  and 
Reading  KOOIIIM,  Kestauraiit  and  Society  Kooms,  open  throughout 
the  whole  year.  Grand  Concerts.  Symphony  and  Otuu  te  te  S.jjier-  :  Special  Concerts 
by  renowned  artiMg.  {Sal*  J'ares,  Reunions ;  Children's  Festivals.  Splendid  Orches- 
tra (48  musicians),  with  solo  players;  three  Concerts  daily.  Military  Concerts.  Operas 
and  Comedies.  Ballet.  Fireworks  and  Illuminations.  Shooting  and  Fishinjr.  Pigeon 
Shooting.  Grand  Races.  Educational  Institution!*  of  hijrli  order. 

Baden-Baden,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  luxuriunt  pine  and  heech  woods,  offers 
opportunities  for  ilu-  most  <-li;i  rnii  iiir  walks  and  excursions.  Excellent 
Climate;  Charming  Situation,  .'lean  uiinual  temperature, +7. 14°  1C. 

THE  MUNICIPAL  COMMITTEE. 
CONNER,  Presiding  Mayor.  TH.  WEIH,  Town  Counsellor 

BADEN-BADEN. 

HOTEL   DE    LA    COUR    DE    BADE. 

BADISCHER    HOP. 

MAGNIFICENT,   FIRST-CLASS    KSTAB1.ISHMK.NT.  \viih    Ik-autiful   (iurdens.       I.an 
Finest  House  in  Every  Respect.     Not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Hotel  de  la  Ville  de  Hade,  nea" 
the  station.  Mr.  ZIKGLKlt,  Proprietor. 

BADEN-BADEN-HOTErBELLEVUE, 

Beautifully  Situated  on  the  Alice  de  Liehtentluil,  in  the  centre  of  a  Fine  Park. 
Patronized  by  the  Highest  Families  in  Europe.  Arrangements. 

Mr.  RIOTTE,  Proprietor. 

BADEN-BADEN. 

HOTEL    STEPHANIE. 

Entrance   of  the  Allee   de  Lichtenthul.  in    midst   of   Fine  Grounds,      dose   to 

Km-saal,  Baths,  &c.  C.  BREXNKK,  Proprietor. 

BADEFBADEiriICOURT  PHOTOGRAPHER. 

w.  KLTXTZI:MI  I.I,I:K, 

FRIEDRICH-STRASSE,    1. 

To  the  Left  of  the  Conversationshaus,  between  the  Theatre  and  Hotel  Messmer. 

C*' 

Dl 


HOTEL  DE  L'EUROPE,  BADEN. 
O.  KAH,  PROPRIETOR. 

This  house  is  situated  in  the  finest  position  in  Baden-Baden,  immediately  opposite  the 
Drinkhalle  and  Conversation- House.  Splendidly  furnished.  Fine  Wine -Cellar.  Cuisine 
not  surpassed  by  any  in  Germany. 

H  A  m:\-B8  \»E.\. 

HOLLAND  HOTEL, 

AND  DEPENDENCE   "AU  BEAU-SEJOUR." 

First-Class  Establishment,  with  a  beautiful  Garden  nearest  the 
Conversation-House  and  Frederics  Baths. 

Fixed  moderate  charges  for  everything.  Excellent  Cooking.  Prize 
Medals  for  Wines:  Vienna,  1873,  Philadelphia,  1876,  <fcc. 

Arrangements  made  for  a  prolonged  stay. 

A.  ROESSLER,  Proprietor, 


HOTEL    DE    RUSSIE. 

FIRST-CLASS  HOUSE  OF  OLD  STANDING, 

Thoroughly  renovated  and  refurnished.  Beautiful  situation  on  the 
Promenade,  near  the  Kursaal,  in  its  own  Garden,  commanding  a  fine 
view.  Elegantly  Furnished.  Good  Cuisine  and  Attendance. 

A.  &  G.  MOERCH,  Proprietors. 
68 


HOTEL  VICTORIA,  BADEN-BADEN, 


IT.    G-ROBH*CTL<Z^    Proprietor. 

This  first  class  Hotel  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  immediate  vii-inity  of  the  promenade  and 
conversation  bouse,  and  contains  110  "rooms  and  saloons  for  private  families  and  single  persons, 
The  table  and  wines  arc  the  very  Ix-st  ;  priivs  moderate.     Table  d'hote,  5  o'clock. 
ENGLISH    SJ'OKKX    I!V    MA.   THE    SERVANTS. 


TRIBERGK 

Centre  of  the  world-renowned  Black  Forest  Railroad  of  Baden. 


BLACK  FOREST  HOTEL. 

LOUIS  BIEBJNGER,  Proprietor. 

Opened  1877.  The  Grandest  Establishment  of  the  Black  Forest  First-Class 
House,  situated  in  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  town  and  valley,  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  Waterfall.  Honored  in  1877  by  a  visit  of  His  Majesty  the  Emperor 
of  Germany.  Most  favorably  known  by  all  tourists.  900  feet  above  the  sea.  80 
most  elegantly  furnished  Rooms  and  Saloons,  with  26  balconies  and  120  beds ; 
large  shady  Terrace,  with  Pavilion ;  spacious  Breakfast  and  Dining  Saloon ; 
Smoking,  Reading,  and  Conversation  Rooms ;  Warm,  Cold,  and  Shower  Baths  on 
every  floor. 

Opening  of  the  Season  on  the  1st  of  May. 

Table  d'Hote  at  one  and  five  o'clock.  Omnibus  at  the  Railway  Station.  Car- 
riages for  Excursions.  English,  French,  and  Italian  Conversation.  Carefully  se- 
lected Newspaper  Literature.  Waterfall  illuminated  by  Bengal  Lights  once  a  week. 

COPENHAGEN". 

HOTEL  KONGEN  OF  DENMARK. 

THIS  FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL,  much  frequented  by  the  highest  class  of  English 
and  American  travellers,  affords  first-rate  accommodation  for  Families  and  Single 
Gentlemen.  Splendid  situation,  close  to  the  Royal  Palace,  overlooking  the  King's 
Square.  Excellent  Table  d'Hote.  Private  Dinners.  Best  Attendance.  Ki':i<ling- 
Room.  Hot  Baths.  Lift.  English,  French,  German,  and  America?!  newspapers. 
All  languages  spoken.  Very  moderate  charges.  T/ie  only  Vienna  Coffee-House. 

R.  KLUM,  Proprietor, 

Karlsruhe.    HOTEL   GERMANIA, 

SITUATED  1  FEW  MINUTES  FROM  THE  KAILI  AY  STATION,  01  THE  PUBLIC  OAHDEJS. 

This  First-class  Hotel  is  furnished  with  every  modern  comfort.  100  Rooms  and  Suites  of 
Apartments.  Bed  and  attendance  from  2  Marks.  The  whole  of  the  house  heated  so  as  to  insure 
comfort  to  Winter  Visitors,  for  whom  also  Special  Arrangements  are  made.  Batns;  Lift.  Omni- 
buses at  the  Station.  JOSEF  LEERS,  Proprietor. 

69 


KISSINGEN  'Baihs  of). 

HOTEL  SANNER. 

In  a  most  beautiful  position,  with  free  outlook  on 
all  sides. 

Near  the  Bath  Establishment,  the  Promenade,  and 
Springs. 

120  Rooms,  20  Balconies,  and  Fire-proof  Stairways. 
Large,  shady  Ten-ace  and  beautiful  Ground*. 

Known  as  one  of  the  best  and  most-frequented  ho- 
tels of  Kissingen. 

Excellent  Cuisine  and  Attendance.  Large  Table 
d'Hote  and  moderate  pi-ices.  Omnibus  at  Station. 

ROBERT   SCHMIDT,  Proprietor. 

KISSIIVGEN    (Baths  of). 

HOTEL  KAISERHOF, 

First-Class  House,  in  beautiful  situation,  opposite  the  Promenade, 
and  close  to  the  Springs  and  Establishment  of  Baths. 

Good  Cuisine  and  Attendance.  Arrangements  made  for  a  long 
stay.  Omnibus  at  Railway  Station. 

MUNICH. 

MERK,    JEWELLER, 

13   ODEONSPLATZ 

Every  Variety  at  Wholesale  Prices.     Prizes  and  Decorations  at  several  Exhibitions  for  Excel- 
lence of  Workmanship. 

TYROL,  AND    THE    SKIRT    OF    THE   ALPS. 

BY    GEORGE    E.   WARING,    JR. 
Illustrated.    8vo.  Cloth,  $3.00. 

Published    toy    HARPER    «fc    BROTHKRS,    3STew    York. 
tW  Sent  by  mail,  pottage  prepaid,  on  receipt  of  the  price. 

70 


BTBASBUBO. 


HOTEL 


This  rir-t-cln«s  establishment  modern  construction,  opposite  the  station,  with  a  splendid  view  of  the  Vntfm  nagt, 
unites  nil  the  l.,--t  conditions  of  comfort  and  elegance.  KebreM  Cuitint.  Taklt  fJStt  and  Rt*a*ra*t  a  la  Can,. 
Genuine  Wine*  of  the  Be»t  Vintage..  Conversation  «nd  Rending  Rooms.  Baths  on  all  Floors.  Perfected  Lift.  Mod- 
erate Chiirfres.  I.  i  'ST?:RM  ANN",  formerly  Co-proprietor  and  Director  of  the  Hotel  de  Paru. 


NUREMBERG. 


Hotel  zum  Strauss  lOstrich), 

HOTEL  DE  L'AUTRUCHE, 

First-Class  House.     N'cwly  Huilt.     150  Rooms.     Central  situation  near  Churches, 
Museums,  Theatre,  &c.     Baths  ami  Curriai:-'-.      Omnibus  at  Station. 


Ki  \  M  U 


..  Proprietors. 


HOTEL  DE  BAVIEKE. 

This  First-Class  and  Superior  Hotel,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  "town,  close  to  the  river,  is 
highly  spoken  of  by  English  and  American  Travelers  for  its  general  comfort  and  moderate  charges. 

ENGLISH  AND  FOREIGN  NEWSPAPERS. 

Carriages  in  the  Hotel.     Omnibuses  to  and  from  each  Train.     English  Church  in  the  Hotel. 
SERVICE    EVERY    SUNDAY. 


MILAN. 
ULRICH    &    CO., 

21  Via  Bigli, 

American  and  English  Bankers; 

Correspondents  and  Agents 

OF  THE  FIRST   BANKING-HOUSES   OF   EUROPE  AND  THE 
UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA. 

HOTEL  D'ANGLETERRE  (Englischer  Hof  ).-PRAGUE. 

PROPRIETOR,  MR.  F.  HUTTIG. 

This  nrst-r»te  Establishment  is  much  frequented  by  English  travelers  for  its  moderate 
char-res,  comfort,  and  cleanliness.  It  is  sitiuued  near  the  Railway  Starion  and  Poct-ofljcu 
Table  d'hAte,  4  o'clock.  Dinner  ik  la  carte  or  at  tixed  price  at  any  hour.  English  newspapers! 
EiiirlWi  and  French  spoken. 

B.  Somerfeld,  Embroidery  Manufacturer, 

42   Lcipzig'cr  Street,  Berlin, 

Has  the  greatest  stock  of  finished  and  unfinished  Embroideries.     The  new 
rooms  are  furnished  with  a  rich  and  tasteful  stock  of  all  articles  in  this  branch, 
which  enables  him  to  execute  every  order  given. 
72 


NUREMBERG. 


HOTEL  WURTEMBERGER  HOP. 

FIRST-CLASS  HOl'SE.  with  Garden,  in  a  beautiful  and  commanding  position,  opposite  the 
Station,  close  to  Churches.  Museums,  Post  and  Telegraph  Office.  Handsomely  furnished  Apart- 
ments and  Single  Rooms,  Baths,  Carriages,  Table  d'Hote,  &c.  F.  S.  KERI.F.R.  PROPRIETOR. 

MUNICH. 

STAINED  CLASS 

OF    EVERY   DESCRIPTION. 

Jtiitiigltrjje  ISnfglasnialtrri. 
ROYAL  BAVARIAN  COURT  MANUFACTORY. 

Visitors  to  Munich  are  invited  to  inspect  the  chefs- 
d'o3uvres,  finished  and  in  course  of  preparation. 

23  Briennerstrasse,  23, 

CLOSE     TO     THE     1M  AXI1VCILI  A.NSTR  AS  SK. 


HERR  F.  X.  / 1   I  I  I  IK    Director. 


73 


FOUR    SEASONS   HOTEL, 

MUNICH. 

This  First-Class  Hotel  is  situated  ii<  the  new  Maximilian  Street,  which  is  justly  considered  on« 
of  the  finest  Streets  in  Germany,  as  well  for  its  magnificent  and  grand  buildings,  as  for  its  beaulifu1 
ornamental  promenade.  It  is  fitted  up  in  a  luxurious  style,  combining  elegance  and  comfort,  ;mc 
possesses  all  the  modern  accomplishments  of  a  first-rate  establishment.  The  charges  are  moderaU 
and  fixed.  AUG.  SCHIMONHEIRS. 


MUNICH. 

1  Maximilian 
Strasse, 

CLOSE   TO   THE   FOUR 
SEASONS  HOTEL. 


FOUNDED   1806. 


LONDON, 

s.  w. 
17   Charles   Street, 

HAYMAKKET, 

Close  to  Her  Majesty's  Theatre. 


E.  A.  FLEISCHMANN'S 

FINE   ART   GALLERY. 

PROPRIETORS  : 

Messrs.  A.  BHGrNEB,  G.  SONTHEIMEK,  and  MAX  SONTHEIMEE. 

NK\V    YORK   AGEXT  : 

Mr.  MAX  HEKEMANN,  80&  Pearl  Street, 

Permanent  Exhibitions  of  Oil  Paintings  by  the  modern  Continental  Masters. 
During  the  Summer  Months  a  Special  Exhibition  at  the  Royal  Odeou. 
74 


MUNICH-THE  BAYERISCHER  HOP, 


Only  Hotel  in  Munich  Constructed  for  a  First-class  Hotel, 

150  Rooms  and  Salons,  entirely  new  or  elegantly  renovated.  In  the  centre  of  the  City  on, 
the  Promenadoplatz.  close  to  all  Attractions.  Meals  and  Wines  for  Moderate  Charges.  Hy- 
draulic Lift;  Large  French  Beds;  Elegant  Baths,  with  Shower-baths ;  Telephone,  &c.,  &c.  Car- 


riage; Omnibus  at  the  Station. 


OSCAR    SEIF. 


ROBERT  THODE  &  CO,,  American  Bankers, 

DRESDEN  :  WIlsdriiflTer-Strasse,  >'o.  l,in  connection  with  the  U.S.  Consulate. 

UNITED  STATKS  (JOVKKNMKNT  Sc<  uririr-.  :,<  well  as  Drafts  on  America,  Ene- 
liind,  and  France,  boiurht  and  sold.  Reading-Rooms  fnrnished  with  English  ;ind 
American  papers.  Post-Office  well  attended  to.  Packages  of  all  kinds  forward- 
ed to  America.  Travelers'  Luggage  received  and  stored. 

CARL   HILLER, 

I.    R.    COURT     PURVEYOR, 

BERLIN, 

Unter  den  Linden,  62,  63, 

RESTAURANT  OF  FIRST  CLASS. 

BREAKFASTS.  DINNERS.  SUPPERS. 

Berlin.-  -Restaurant   Strub. 

33    UNTER    DEN    LINDEN. 

CLOSE  TO  EOYAL  PALACE,  THEATRE,  AND  CENTRAL  STATION. 

Dinners  at  Fixed  Prices  and  d  la  carte.     Private  Rooms,  &c. 

75 


MUNICH. 


HOTEL  D'ANGLETERRE 

(English  Hotel— Englischer  Hof ). 

FINE,  FIRST-CLASS  HOUSE, 

Df  THE  CENTRE  OF  THE  CITY. 

SPECIALLY  RECOMMENDED  TO  AMERICAN  AND  ENGLISH 

TRAVELERS. 

Every  Comfort.      Omnibus   at  the  Station.      Under  the  personal 
supervision  of  tte 

Proprietor,  Mr.  H.  STRAUB. 

llAMBURG. 


STREIT'S      HOTEL. 

Tliis  SUPERIOE  FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL  for 

FAMILIES  AND  GENTLEMEN 

Is  admirably  situated  on  the  Jung  fernstieg,  commanding  ex 
tensive  views  of  the  Alster  Basin,  and  is  most  centrally  situated 
for  visitors ;  unrivalled  accommodation,  combining  comfort  and 
elegance,  with  all  the  luxuries  of  home.  This  Hotel  has  for  a 
number  of  years  secured  a  patronage  of  the  highest  respectabil. 
ity,  and  Mr.  Streit,  the  proprietor,  will  spare  no  endeavors  to  give 

satisfaction.     Table-d'Hote  at  4  o'clock. 
76 


VICT 


DRESDEN. 

This  first-rate  Establishment, 

SITUATED  NEAE  THE  OBEAT  PUBLIC  PBOMENADE, 

Combines  Comfort  with  Elegance, 

and  has  the  advantage  of  possessing  a 

SPACIOUS  AND  BEAUTIFUL  GARDEN. 

Tiro  Superior  Table*  a? Hole  Daily. 
Private  Dinners  at  any  Jioitr.     J>uriiJ<j  tin   Wintei\ 
JSoard  and  Lodging  at  very  moderate  prices. 

CARL  WEISS,  Proprietor. 

DRESDEN.   PROELSS'  SONS, 

Corner  of  See  and  Waisenhaus  Strasse,  No.  8, 


OPPOSITE   VICTORIA  HOTEL, 

MANTKAC] TUKUS    OK 


DAMASK  TABLE-LIEN  Al 


KKKI'    I.AUGKST    STOrK-dl     Tllr.llt 

Ready-Made  Liueu  and  Embroideries,  Shirting>  Huckabacks, 
and  Diaper  Towellings. 

77 


BERLIN. 


" 


THE  KAISERHOF," 

On  the  Wilhelmsplatz  and  Ziethenplatz, 
GRANDEST  HOTEL  OF  FIRST  RANK  IN  BERLIN. 

LEIPZIG-HOTEL  HAUFFE. 


FIRST 
Madame-   WE.  HAUFFE,  Proprietor. 

LEIPZIG.  —  HOTEL    HELLER, 

ZUM  BAMBERGER  HOP,  KOMUSPLATZ. 

Near  Stations,  Post  -Office,  Theatre,  and  Museum. 

RICHARD   HELLER,  Proprietor,  also  of  Hotel  I)a?id  in  Halle. 


LEIPZIG.— HOTEL  DE  ROME. 

Fine   position    on   the   Promenade,  near  Theatre,  Post-Office,  and 
the  Dresden,  Berlin,  Hamburg,  Cologne,  and  Frankfort  Stations. 

€.  OERTGE,  Proprietor. 

LEIPZIG. 


First  and  most  Elegant  Restaurant  in   Leipzig. 
WELL  KNOWN  FOR  EXCELLENT  CUISINE  AND  WINES. 


LEIPZIG!-. 

HOTEL"SEDAN. 

First-Class,  New  House, 

WITH  EVERY   COMFORT. 


NEIT  TO  THE  THDRINGIAN,  AND  CLOSE  TO  OTHER  STATIONS, 

ENGLISH  AND  FRENCH  BEDS. 

C.  W.  SCHMIDT,  Proprietor. 

CASSEL.— HOTEL    DU    IVORD. 

First-Class.     Opposite  the  Station. 

H.  AXMANN,  Proprietor. 

CasseL— ROYAL  HOTEL. 

FINE  POSITION,  OPPOSITE  THE  STATION. 

First-Class  House.    Excellent  Restaurant,  and  Every  Comfort. 

H.    MEYER    iProprietor. 

HOTEL  PRINCE  FRIEDRICH  WILHELM, 

Beautiful  Position  on  Square  of  Same  Name,  near  Station.     First  rinss.  HI.  rant  House,  with 
Garden  and  every  Modern  convenience.  C.  ISKRLOH,  Proprietor. 

HANOVER.— UNION  HOTEL.   First  Class 

F.  VOLKEKS    Proprietor. 

PYRMONT  (Baths  of) -GRAND  HOTEL  DES  BAINS, 

BROTHERS,    Proprietors. 

79 


HANOVER 


HOTEL 


This  House  is  situated  near  the  Station,  and  contains  the  comforts  and  luxuries  of  a  First- 
Class  Hotel.  Terms  moderate.  Special  arrangements  made  for  a  lengthened  stay.  Fine,  large 
Garden.  Telephone.  Messrs.  CHRIST,  Proprietors. 


HOTEL  "HAMBURGER  HOP." 

Magnificent.    Lately  Opened. 

HOTEL  OF  FIRST  RANK  ON  THE  JDIGFERSTIEG, 

With  Beautiful  View  of  both  the  Alster  Harbors. 

Comfort  surpassed  by  that  of  no  House  in  Germany.  Travellers' 
and  Baggage  Lifts.  Bath-Rooms,  Adjoining  Rooms,  and  Reading, 
Ladies',  and  Smoking  Rooms.  Winter  Garden.  Dining-Room  dec- 
orated by  the  first  Hamburg  Artists. 

200  noons  AND  SALOONS. 

Charges  Moderate.     Table  d'Hote  and  Restaurant  a  la  carte. 

C.  UHL,  Director. 

80 


CONTINENTAL  HOTEL. 

Opened  20th  May,  1881. 

First-class  Hotel,  close  to  the  Royal  The;itiv  nnd  Central  Railway  Station,  in  the  best  part  of  the  To\m,«nrronnded 
by  Promenades.  Hydraulir  Lift,  'l.'iil  K..»m»  with  every  ,  ,,mfort.  Urge  and  well-aerated  Dining-Room.  Ladies', 
R'eadinir.and  Smoking  Saloons.  I'ri>  vs  in  ei'-h  Room,  from  4J  ink.  50  pf.,  including  Light  and  Service.  Balconies  and 
splendid  view.  Exquisite  cooking,  i;  .....  I  Wines.  Comfortable  Bath-Rootu  on  each  floor.  Restaurant  in  the  Parii 

•^  _  Carl  Fits. 

HANOVER.—  HOTEL    DE   RUSSIE. 

This  first-class  Hotel  is  beautifully  situated  opposite  the  Railway  Station  and  Post-Office,  and 
in  the  healthiest  part  of  the  City  —  and  in  the  centre  of  large  gardens.  The  Proprietor  and  Pro- 
prietress have  been  for  several  years  in  England  and  France,  and  mnke  the  comfort  of  F.nglish 
and  American  Families  their  special  study.  The  prices  are  very  moderate,  and  the  servants  of 
the  establishment  are  specially  trained  to  be  civil  and  obliging  to  visitors 

C.  PICKIISKKG,  Propri.  tor. 


HAMBURG 


First-class  House,  of  old  reputation,  patronized  by  II.  It.  II.  the  Prince  of  Wales,  and  distin- 
guished Knglish  families  In  most  Hi\iulif.il  Location  on  the  Alster-Hassin.  IN)  Rooms  ami 
Saloons,  provided  with  every  Comfort  ol  Modern  Times.  Baths,  etc.  Hydraul  c  Lift.  Table 


d'Hotc  at  4  oViock. 


Messrs.  BUF.TT8CHNK1DKB   &   ItAMMJ,  Proprietors. 


HAMBURG-HOTEL  MOSER. 

New  an<l  Beautifully  Furnished,  in  the  Kiniv-t  Quarter  of  the  Town   opi  osile  the  K\change  and 
the  Alster  Bassin       On  the  ({round  lloor  are  the  T'ltilf.  d'  Hot'-  Dininu'  Koom.  ''ft,     /,' 
Reading  and  Conversation  Kooms,  with  all  I'.cst  Newspapers.     Cold  and  Warm  Baths.     Cood  Ser- 
vice.     Moderate  Prices.  .T.   ('.    M  <  >^  I-'.  K'.    I  »!•<>,  ,,-i<  -t  ..]•. 

.-OTE    (JEKMAX1A. 


Corner  of  the  Bcrg-cdorfcr  and  2d  Klostcrsti  assc. 

»ar  Iterlin  And  Paris  Stationn  and  Piers  of  the  I  raiiHatlantic  Ste.-xtners.  Quite  Vew. 
Comfortably  Furnished  lloonis.  Caflt-Rrttaurmt,  Table.  d'Hbt<-  at  '2'M>.  C,»IH\  Attendance. 
Moderate  Charges.  English,  French,  aud  Swedish  spokea  Q  SCHILLER  Proo 

81 


of  Austria  Bailf  ay. 


ONLY  SLEEPING-CAR  ROUTE  BETWEEN  GERMANY  AND 

AUSTRIA,  HAMBURG,  BERLIN,  DRESDEN, 

AND  PRAGUE, 

TO 


From  Hamburg,  via  Stendal,  Roderau,  Riesa,  Dresden, 
Lissa,  Kolin,  Deutschbrod,  and  Znaim. 

From  Berlin,  via  Roderau,  Riesa  (here  joining  mail  from 
Hamburg),  Dresden,  Lissa,  Kolin,  Deutschbrod,  and  Znaim. 

From  Dresden,  via  Lissa,  Kolin,  Deutschbrod,  and  Znaim. 

From  Prague  (joining  the  train  at  Lissa  junction),  via 
Lissa,  Kolin,  Deutschbrod,  and  Znaim. 

TIME  AND  FARES. 

(Exclusive  of  first-class  railway  fare.) 

From  Hamburg  to  Vienna,  21  h.  29  m.,  16  marks; 
Berlin  to  Vienna,  15  h.  12  m.,  12  marks;  Dresden  to 
Vienna,  11  h.  44  m.,  6  marks. 

TELEGEAPHIM  FOE  BEETHS, 

From  Leipzig  telegraph  to  Dresden,  and  join  the  train  there  ; 
from  Prague  telegraph  to  Dresden,  and  join  the  train  at  Lissa. 

EOUES  OF  DEPAETUEE, 

From  Vienna  for  the  North  at  8.30  P.M.  ;  leave  Hamburg  for 
South  at  11  A.M.  ;  leave  Berlin  at  5.17  P.M.  ;  leave  Dresden  at 
8.45  P.M.  ;  leave  Prague  at  11  P.M. 

See  map  and  text. 

>T.  B.  —  Further  information  supplied  on  addressing  station- 
masters,  or  the 

DIRECTION 


K.  K.  PRIV.  OESTERR.  NORDWESTBAHN,  VIENNA. 

82 


HOTEL  DE  SAXE. 

Patroni/ed  by  Imperial  Family  of  Austria.     Beautiful  Part  of  Town 
(Hybernstrasse),  close  to  Dresden  and  Vienna  Stations. 

Most  Elegantly  Furnished,  with  Exceptionally  Moderate  Prices. 


V.  m;\i:s.  Proprietor. 


PRAGUE.—  HOTEL    VICTORIA. 

New  First-class  Family  Hotel.    English  Landlady. 

CORNER  JUNGMANN'S  AND   PALACKYSTRASSE. 

O.  &  H.  WELZER,  Proprietors. 


HOTEL  GOLDEN  ANGEL  (ZUM  GOLDENEN  ENGELX 

Zeltnerstreet  (Old  Town).    F.  STICKEL,  Proprietor. 

This  Hotel  is  situated  at  no  great  distance  from  the  Terminus  of  the  Railway  to  Dresden  and 
Vienna,  the  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices,  the  Custom-house,  the  Theatre,  and  other  public  huild- 
ings.  Warm  and  Cold  Baths.  English  and  French  newspapers. 

CARLSBAD. 


On  the  "Neuen  Gartenzeilstrasse."  Open  all  the  year.  This  Hold,  situ- 
ated next  to  the  City  Park,  and  only  4  minutes  from  all  the  Mineral  Springs, 
commands  a  splendid  view  of  the  Mountains,  and  is  recommended  to  families 
and  travellers  in  general.  Large  dining-rooms  and  shady  garden.  Good 
German  and  French  Cooking.  Moderate  charges.  The  Proprietor,  ANT. 
\\IKSIXGER,  has  left  his  hotel,  Drei  Fasanen,  on  account  of  his  increas 
ing  business  in  the  above  Hotel. 

Cartsy,-RESTllUfilillTClHlflAUS  and  STAOTPARK, 

The  Two  First  class,  Host  Restaurants  of  Carlsbad  Favnriie  Rendezvous  anil  Dining  Resort 
of  Visitors.  The  t'urliiiiis  Restaurant  contains  the  «»/;/  Complete  Set  of  Foreign  Nettspipcrs  in 
Carlsbad.  The  Stadtpark  Restaurant,  in  the  Town  1'ark,  is  a  lovely  place  to  past*  the  evening. 

Mr.  EROP.  Proprietor. 

LAUSANNE —GRAND  HOTEL  RICHE  MONT. 

Hc'uutif'ul    Sunny   Position  on   the    Hill. 
Arrangements  made  for  the  Season. 

RITTTCR-WOLBOLID,    Proprietor. 

83 


TEPLITZ  -SCHON  VU  (BATHS  OF). 

BOHEMIA. 

Hot  Alkali-Saline  Springs  (26°-39°  R.),  Known  and  Celebrated  for  Cen- 
turies. The  Cure  goes  on  during  the  Whole  Year. 

SUMMER  SEASON  BEGINS  MAY  1st. 

Bathing  Resort  of  First  Rank,  with  Magnificent  Establishment  ; 
Mud-baths.  Exportation  of  own  and  other  waters  under  the  inspection  of  a 
Medical  Control. 

Wonderful  in  its  unsurpassed  Effects  against  dlout.  Rheumatism,  Scrof- 
ula in  all  Forms,  Neuralgia,  and  other  Nervous  Diseases  ;  incipient  Linn- 
bago  ;  brilliant  Results  in  Effects  from  Shot  and  Sword  Wounds,  and  after 
Fracture  of  Bones,  in  Stiffness  of  Joints,  and  Curvatures. 

Beautiful,  thoroughly  protected  Position  in  a  broad  Valley,  surrounded 
by  the  Mountain  Forests  of  the  Erz  and  Mittel  Ranges.  Mild,  even  Climate. 
Magnificent  Park  and  Garden  Promenades,  Concerts  of  the  Town  Bath-Or- 
chestra, and  the  Austrian  Military  Band.  Reunions,  Theatre  with  Operatic 
Representations,  etc.  Ball-Room,  Reading-Room,  Churches  of  various  Creeds, 
Two  Railway  Stations. 

Sufficient  Accommodation  assured  by  the  Kaiserbad,  the  Steinbad,  and  the 
Stadtbad  in  Teplitz,  the  Schlangenbad  and  the  Neubad  in  Schonau,  and  numer- 
ous Private  Houses. 

dumber  of  Visitors  in  Teplitz-Schonau  in  1883,  over  30,000. 

All  information  given  and  lodgings  secured  in  Teplipz  by  the  Bader- 
inspectorat  of  Teplitz,  and  in  Schonau  by  the  Biirgermeisteramt  of  Schonau. 


Season  from  May  1st  to  Sept.  30tli.      Direct  Railway  Communication 

with  the  Principal  Cities  of  the  Continent. 

Alkali-Saline  Ferrugiuoxis  Waters,  of  strengthening  Iron  with  most  easily  dissolv- 
able Salts.  Ferruginous  Carbonic  Acid  Baths,  the  most  healing  of  all  known  Mud- 
baths,  Gaseous  Carbonic  Acid  Baths,  and  Vapor  Baths.  Over  500  Rooms  in  4  Kle- 
gant  Bath  Establishments.  In  Poverty  of  the  Blood,  and  all  Consequent  Dlsen»«'^. 
Weaknesses,  especially  of  Digestion  and  of  the  Abdomen.  Women's  Diseases,  in  Mus- 
culnr  Complaints,  Nervous  Diseases,  Chronic  Catarrh  of  all  Mucous  Mem- 
branes. Chronic  Sweats  and  Loss  of  Strength  following  any  Disease,  these  Waters 
are  most  Kmcacious. 

Magnificent  Mountain  Air,  elegant  Hotels  and  Private  Houses,  with  over  4000 
Rooms,  moderate  Prices,  large  Hall,  Conversation  and  Reading  Rooms,  fine 
Town  Orchestra,  Concerts,  Theatre,  Reunions.  Balls.  Numerous  Excursions. 
9OOO  Guests.  Churches  of  all  Creeds.  Mineral  Water  of  all  Springs  carefully  expedited 
to  any  destination.  Further  information  supplied  by  the 

Biirg-crmeistcramt  in  Franzcnibad. 


V  E  V  E  Y. 


HOTEL  MONNET, 

OR  TROIS  COURONNES. 

T.  SCHOTT,  Proprietor. 


VIENNA.-"HOTEL  METROPOLE." 


UI.\(iSTKA»K.    Kit  A  \Z-JOSKFS-Q  I  Al. 
FIRST-CLASS   AND   BEST-SITUATED   HOTEL. 

3OO    well  -  furiiKlu'd    Bedrooms    and    Sillinjr  -  Hooins    (from    1   11    upwards ). 
l!i  :ul  inu- KO..III    s'i|i|.lied    with   the   Lnri'l'iii    T'm-f.   Gatigntutft    M-'fstngrr,  and   Anicric'n 
I  ni.  -ami  I'oh  'graph-i  MBco  in  (lit-  Hold.     Arrangements  e.m  be  made  lor  a 

protracted  stay  at  moderate  prices.     Omniliusos  to  aud  from  tlic  Station 

L.  SPEISER,  Manager. 


TfiCHL    CA.USTBIA.X 


HOTEL—  BAUER. 

Magnificent  View  over  Town  and  Country.      Ijirge  Park.      Fir  Forest.      Moderate  Trees. 
gniuYent  Structure.     10  .Minutes  from  Station.     Baths  (also  Sulphur  ones)  in  House. 

6  35 


GMUNDEN  (UPPER  AUSTRIA). 

On  the  Shores  of  the  Charming  Traun  Lake  (Tratmsee), 

STATION  OF  THE   ELIZA BKTH- WESTERN   RAILWAY,  AND   THE 
SALZKAMMKRU IT    RAILWAY. 

SKA so*  Fuow  .ia  \B;  i  to  OCT.  i. 


CURES.— Saline,  Mother  I^ye,  Pine  Needle,  Mud,  Sulphur,  Shower,  Va-. 
por,  and  Lake  Baths.  Whey  Cure,  and  Mineral  Waters  of  all  Countries.  In  the 
Hotel  Bellevue  Garden  an  Inhalation  Chamber  with  Spray  of  Brine.  Fir,  and  Pine 
Steam,  and  a  Pneumatic  Chamber  for  6  persons,  with  Compressed  Air,  the  Finest 
Establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  Summer  Resorts  of  Austria,  and  the  Best  Ilemedy 
for  Shortness  of  Breath,  Kmphysis,  Chronic  Bronchial  Catarrh,  Nervous 
Asthma,  Slimy  Coating  of  (he  Lungs,  and  Poverty  of  the  Blood.  Swim- 
ming and  cold  Bath  House,  and  Gymnasium.  Cold-Water  Cure. 

COMFORT  AND  CONVENIENCES.— Music  twice  daily,  partly  on  the  !•>• 
planade,  partly  in  the  Cursaloii.  Every  Saturday  Dancing  Parties  in  the  Curxaal 
without  Entrance  Fee.  Concerts,  Tombolas,  and  other  Entertainments  Frequently. 
Theatre.  All  Newspapers  in  the  Reading-Room.  Finest  Walks  and  Excursions. 
Frequent  Pleasure  Parties  on  the  Lake  with  Steamers  and  Gondolas.  Splendid 
Hotels,  numerous  Villas  and  lodgings.  All  Information  supplied  by  the 

CTJR-COMITE,  Gmunden. 

GMOKDET(TRAUN  LAKE).-HOTEL  AUSTRIA. 

AT    THE    STEAMBOAT    LANDING, 

With  Large,  Shady  Terrace  on  the  Lake,  in  llp.-iittif'iil  Position.  Beautiful  House  and  Well- 
riiniislied.  Table  d'Hote.  Pension  liy  tli.-  Week,  from  :»  fl.  up.  Saline.  Pine  Needle,  and 
Sluwer  Baths.  Lift.  Steamboats  la:id  at  t!ie.  Hotel  Pier.  Omnibus  at  Station. 

FRANZ  SCHECK,  Proprietor. 

S  A  L Z  B  Uli Gr. 

Hotel  de  1'Europe  and  Pension  Jung. 

OPPOSITE    THE    RAILWAY    STATION, 

In  the,jniddle  of  a  Large  Park  with  a  superb  v  ew  over  the  Hochgebirg.  Magnificent  Summer 
I  ,.-<,rt,  Moderate  Charges.  Uooms  from  1  florin  upwards.  G>  JUNO,  Proprietor. 

IIEIU-lim  HSiUIEKIBCI  IIF. 

fii'st-Olass.    Close  to  Graben,  St.  Stephan's  Cathedral,  and  the  Danube. 
AUSTRIAN  COURT  HOTEL. 

J.  HANISCH,  Proprietor. 

HAMPER'S     PHRASE-BOOK. 

Harper's  Phrase-Bonk ;  or.  Hand-Book  of  Travel-Talk  for  Travellers  and  Schools.  Being  a  Guide 
to  ConverwU'OM  in  Knglish.  French.  German,  and  Italian,  on  a  New  and  Improved  Method. 
Intended  In  afoinpany  "Harper's  Hand-Rook  for  Travellers. "  By  W.  I'KMHKOKK  FETRIDOE, 
assisieil  by  Professors  of  Heidelberg  University.  With  concise  and  explicit  Rules  for  the  Pro- 
nunciation of  the  different  Languages.  Square  4to,  Flexible  Cloth,  $1.50. 
HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  NEW  YORK. 

t3f~  Sfnt.  carriage  j>aid,  to  any  part  nf  the  United  States  or  Canada,  on  receipt  of  the  price, 

86 


GOLDEN    LAMB   HOTEL 

(COLDENES   LAMM), 

PRATERSTRASSE. 

N.  B.— Do  not  confound  with  Hotel  of  Same  Name  on  the  Wieden.  Situated  in  most  healthy 
part  of  Austrian  capital,  in  the  Pruterstrasse,  near  Fashionable  Promenades.  Commands  fine  view 
of  Danube  and  Quays,  close  to  Hungarian  and  Turkish  Steamer  Pier,  and  Northern  and  North- 
Western  Railway  Stations.  300  Elegantly  Furnished  Rooms.  Suites  of  Comfortable  Apartments. 
Excellent  Cuisine.  English  and  American  Journals.  FIU.XZ  HAUPTMAXN,  Proprietor. 

YIEKCTA   AND   PAEIS. 

AUGUST    KLEIN. 

FIRST   MANUFACTORY    IN   THE  WORLD   OF 

Fancy  Bnnze,  Leather,  Ivory,  and  Tortoise-M  Goods ; 

Portfolios  and  all  sorts  of  Articles  of  Russian  Leather; 
Carvings  of  Every  Material  ; 

GREAT   ASSORTMENT   OF 

Elegant  Articles  for  the  Use  of  Travellers. 

ALL  ARTICLES  -manufactured  in  this  world-renowned 
establishment  are  sold  at 

FIXED    WHOLESALE  PRICES. 

Manufactory,  VIENNA,  6  Andreasgasse. 

I3EPOTS: 

VH'NN  \.   No.  -so  Graben,  only; 
PARIS,  No.  6  Boulevard  de§  Capacities. 

87 


VIENNA. 


Sacher's  Hotel  de  TOpera, 

A I  («ISTOERSTRASSE,  No.  4,  opposite  Hie  I.  and  R.  Opera. 

Most  elegant  and  frequented  quarter  of  tlie  capital.  Near  the  Opera.  Ring,  Treasury.  Muse- 
ams  of  Natural  History.  Numismatics,  and  Antiquities,  the  Belvedere  Picture-Gallery,  Ambraser 
Collection,  the  Volksgarten,  Stadt  (Town),  and  Rathhaus  (Town  Hall),  Parks.  &c. 

12O  Koonis  from  1  fl.  up;  Apartments  from  6  fi.  up. 

First  Restaurant  in  Austria.  Breakfasts,  Dinners,  and  Suppers  d  la  cttrte.  Table  d'Hote, 
3  fl.  Omnibus  at  Stations. 

ED.  SACHER,  I.  and  R.  Purveyor  and  Proprietor. 

HARPER'S   PERIODICALS. 

Per  Year: 

HARPER'S   MAGAZINE |4  00 

HARPER'S  WEEKLY 4  00 

HARPER'S  BAZAR 4  00 

HARPER'S  YOUNG   PEOPLE 2  00 

HARPER'S    FRANKLIN    SQUARE    LIBRARY,  One 

Number  each  week  for  One  Year 10  00 

•ge  Free  to  all  Subscribers  in  the  United  States  or  Canada. 

HARPER'S  FRANKLIN  SQUARE  LIBRARY  :  a  weekly  publication, 
containing  works  of  Travel.  Biography,  History,  Fiction,  and  Poetry,  at 
prices  ranging  from  10  to  25  cents  per  number.  Full  list  of  liar /^  / •'.<•• 
Frnnklin  Square  Library  will  be  furnished  gratuitously  on  application  to 
HARPER  &  BROTHERS.  

Remittances  should  bj  made  by  Post-Office  Money  Order  or  Draft,  to 
avoid  risk  of  loss.     Addi ' 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  Franklin   Square,  N.  Y. 

HARPER'S  CATALOGUE,  of  between  three  and  four  thousand  vol- 
umes, mailed  on  receipt  of  Ten  Cents  in  Postage  Stamps. 

88 


ADELSBERG 


THE   GROTTO. 

SEE    TEXT,    page    731. 


"' 


BUDAPEST  (HUNGARY). 


HOTEL  DE  L'EOROPE. 

First-Class  House.  Patronized  by  H.  Bb*tl. 
the  Prince  of  Wales,  H.  R.  H.  the  ,£omte  tie 
Paris,  H.  R.  H.  the  Due  de  Nemours,  H.  S  II. 
the  Duke  of  Coburg,  &c.,  &c. 

ON   THE   DANUBE. 

MR.   JOSEPH    RAINER,   I'j-oprietor. 

89 


LUCERNE,    SWITZERLAND. 


HOTEL  SCHWEIZERHOF, 

WITH  ITS  DEPENDENCIES, 

AND 

LUZERNERHOF. 


First-class  Establishments ;  splendid  position  on  the 
Lake ;  view  of  the  Righi  and  Pilate.  Apartments  for  Fam- 
ilies and  Tourists.  Restaurant;  Table  d'Hote  a  la  carte. 


90 


HAUSER    BROTHERS,  Proprietors. 


GRAID  HOTEL  DE  LA  PA1X, 

GENEVA,  SWITZERLAND. 

«     •    • 

This  new  and  magnificent  House, 
situated  immediately  in  front  of  Mont 
Blanc,  on  the  margin  of  Lake  Geneva, 
lias  recently  been  taken  by  Mr.  FRITZ 
WEBER,  so  long  and  favorably 
known  as  proprietor  of  the  Hotel  Na- 
tional. It  is  replete  with  every  comfort, 
aad  has  for  many  years  been  patronized 
by  the  first  American  travellers.  It  is 

a  most  charming  Winter  Residence. 

•*« — 

Terms  Moderate,  anil  Special  Prices  Made  for  a  Long  Stay. 


01 


SCHAFFHAUSEN  —  NEUHAUSEN  —  RHINEFALL. 


SCHWEIZERHOF   HOTEL. 

The  SoiiwEizrRiioF  (1S71,  greatly  enlarged)  is  known  to  American  travelers  as  one  of  the 
best  hotels  in  Switzerland.  Its  position,  opposite  the  celebrated  "Falls  of  the  Rhine,"  is 
magnificent.  Fine  Park  and  Garden.  Unrivaled  panoramic  view  of  the  Alps.  Healthy 
climate.  Church  Service.  Fair  Tront  Fishing.  Prices  moderate.  Arrangements  for  Fam- 
ilies. Hotel  Omnibuses  at  Schaffhausen  and  Nenhaiiseii. 

BASLE. 


HOTEL  DES  TROIS   EOIS  (THEEE  KINGS  HOTEL) 


One  of  the  best  Hotels  in  Europe.    Omnibus  at  all  trains.     Mr.  PLUCK.  Proprietor. 

92 


INTERLAKEN. 


GRAND  HOTEL  VICTORIA. 

Magnificent  first-class  family  hotel ;  the  best  situated  at  Interlafcen. 

4OO  BEDS.     ELEVATOR. 

/' 
Special  arrangements  made  for  a  stay  of  some  time, 

ED.  RUCHTI,  Proprietor. 


GRAND  HOTEL  RITSGHARD. 


250     BEDS 

ED.  RUCHTI. 


ZURICH. 


HOTEL  HABIS. 

FIRST-CLASS   HOTEL, 

OPPOSITE  THE  RAILWAY  STATION. 


And  every  modern  comfort  for  English  and  American  travellers,  combined 
with  moderate  charges.  Liberal  terms  for  lengthened  stay  or  winter 
pension.  Address, 

HABISBEUTINGEB, 

Proprietor. 
93 


AUSTRIAN  LLOYD,        1885,        Trips  of  the  Steamers 

To  TUIESTE. 

To  ATHENS  (Piit.t:r~) 

To  COXriTANTlNOPLE. 

To  SMYRNA. 

From 
TRIESTE. 

Every  Saturday  at  noon, 
via  Syra. 
Arrival  following 
Thursday  at  8  A.M. 

Every  second  Thursday 
from  'Dec.  89  at  4  P.M., 
direct  by  Corfu  and  Pa- 
tras.     Arrival  following 
Wednesday  at  3  P.M. 

Every  Saturdav  at  noon. 
Arrival  fol  towing 
Friday  at  8  A.M. 

Every  Saturday  noon,  via 
Syra.     Arrival  following 
"Thursday  at  )  A.M. 

Every  Tuesday  at  6  P.M., 

by  Fiume.  Brindisi,  and 
Syra. 
Arrival  second  Thursday 
at  »  A.M. 

From 
ATHENS  1  1'iii.trsj. 

Every  Saturday  at8  P.M., 
riaSvra.    ArrivaLfaUpw- 
ing  Thursday  at  6  P.M. 

Every  secc»d  Saturday 
from  Jan.  7tl  at  6  A.M., 
direct  l>v  Patra>. 
Arrival  folloWlfic 
Thursday  at  midnight. 

Every  Tuesday  «t  8  P.M., 
via  Svra.    Arrival  follow- 
ing" Friday  at  8  A.M. 

Every  stcond  Thursday 
from  Jan.  5th  at  10  A.M., 
direct. 
Arrival  following 
Thursday  at  10  A.M. 

Every  Tuesday 
at  8  P.M.,  via  syra. 
Arrival 
following  Thursday 
at  »  A.M. 

From 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Every  Fridav  at  5  P.M. 
ArriVal 
following  Thursday 
at  6  P.M.      ' 

Every  Friday  at  5  P.M., 
ria  Svra,    Arrival  follow- 
ing'Monday  al  8  A.M. 

Erery  second  Saturday 
from  DM.  3Ut  S  P.M., 
direct.     Arrival  following 
Friday  at  4  P.M. 

Everv  Thursday 
at"  4  P.M. 
Arrival  following 
Saturday  at  3  A.M. 

From 
SMVHNA. 

Every  Saturday  at  4  P.M., 
via  Syra.    Arrival  follow- 
ing tbunday  at  6  P.M. 

Every  Saturday  at  4  P.M., 
by  Syra,  Brihdisi,  and 
Fitting.     Arrival  second 
Monday  at  4  P.M. 

Every  Saturday  at  4  P.  M.  . 
via  Syra. 
Arrival  following 
Monday  at  8  A.M. 

Every  Saturday 
at  3  P.M. 
Arrival  following 
Monday  at  2.30  A.M. 

• 

From 
BEYKOUT. 

Every  Wednesday,  ria 
Alexandria.     Arrival 
second  Monday  at  1  1  A.M. 

Every  second  Monday 
from  Jan.  id  at  1  A.M., 
via  Smyrna  and  Syra. 
Arrival  second  Thursday 
at  6  P.M. 

Every  second  Monday 
from  Jan.  5d  at  t  P.M., 
ria  Smyrna  and  Svra. 
Arrival  Mt*wm( 
Monday  at  8  A.M. 

Every  second  Monday 
from  Jan.  Sd  at  7  P.M. 
Arrival 
following  Monday 
at  2.30  A.M. 

Every  second  Mondar 
from  Jan.  M  all  I'.M. 
Arrival 
following  Krr.lay 
at  11  A.M. 

From 
ALEXANDRIA. 

Every  Tuesday  it  5  P.M. 
Mouday  at  11  A.M. 

Everv  second  Tuesdav 
from  Jun.lvth  at  0  P.M.. 

Arrival  following  Hot 

day  at  S  A.M. 

Every  second  Friday  from 
Dec.    30  at  11  A.M.,  ria 
Syria,  5*mvrna,  sin!  Svni. 
Arrival  second  Monday 
at  8  A.M. 

Everv  second  Tuesday 
from  Jan.  mill  at  6  P.M. 
Arrival  following 
Monday  at  2.3U  A.M. 

Every  second  Fridav  from 
Dec.iO  at  11    A.M'.,  ria 
Svrm.     Arrival  second 
Xlondayat  2.30  A.M. 

Every  second  Tnesday 
from  Jan.  10th  at  6  P.M. 
Arrival  following 
Friday  at  9.8U  A.M. 

Every  second  Friday 
from  Dec,™"!  H  A.M., 
ria  Svria.     Arrival  fol- 
lowing" Friday  at  11  A.M. 

From 
POUT-SAID. 

Every  Saturday  morning, 
via  Alexandria  and  Corfu. 
Arrival  second 
Monday  at  11  A.M. 

Every  secoad  Saturday 

via  Alexandria,  .Smyrna) 
and  Svra.     Arrival"  sec- 
ond Thursday  at  6  P.M. 

Every  second  Saturday 
fromUec.  Slat  ft  P.M.,  via 

Syria,  Smyrna,  and  Syra. 

Everv  second  Saturday 
from  "Jan.  7th    at  noon, 

and  Syra. 

Arrival  second  Monday 
at  8  A.M. 

Every  second  Saturday 
from  D«c.  31  at  5  I'.M". 
via  Syria. 

Everv  second  Saturday 
from  Jan.  It,,   at  noon, 
via  Alexandria. 

Arrival  second  Monday 
at  3.30  A.M. 

Everv  second  Saturday 
from  Dec.  Slut  .i  I'.M". 
,-ia   Svria.      Arrival  fol- 
lowing Friday  at  11  A.M. 

Every  second  Saturday 
from  Jan.  :th    at  noon, 
ria  Alexandria.    Arrival 
following  Friday 
at  9.3(1  A.M. 

From 
SALON1CA. 

Every  second  Wednesday 
from  Jan.4th  it  4  P.M..' 
direct,  or  via  Piraeus. 
Arrival  second  Thursday 
at  night. 

Every  second  Wedn»vlnv 
from  Jan.  4th  at  4  P.M." 
Arrival 
following  Friday 
at  4  P.M. 

Every  second  Sundav 
from  Jan.  Sth    nt  s  A.M. 
Arrival 
following  Thursday 
at  10  A.M. 

Every  second  Wednesday 
from"  Jan.  4th  at  4  I'.M.,' 
ri.i  Pira-us  and  Svra. 
Arrival  second  Thursday 
at  9  A.M. 

Every  second  Snndav 
from  Jan.  Sth    nt  •>  A  Si., 
via  Constantinople. 
Arrival  following 
Saturday  at  3  A.M. 

94 


stween  Ports  mentioned  below,   1885,  AUSTRIAN  LLOYD. 

To  1IKVKOI    1 

To  AI.EXAMUtlA. 

To  POUT-SAID. 

To  SAI.OMCA. 

Every  i*                              Jan.  fttli 
at  nrK>n,  no  Alexandria.     Arrival 
Mcond  Monday  at  4.M  A.M. 

Every  secon.l  Sstur.lay  from  Jan. 
'iiu  noon,*i«  Svr.-i  an-:  - 
Arrival  sec'd  Wednesday  .  1  A.M. 

Every  second  Friday  from  Dtc.  30 
at  noon.  via  Alexandria.    Arrival 
second  Tuesday  at  9.30  A.M. 

Every  Friday  at  noon. 
Arrival  following 
Thursday  at  6  A.M. 

Every  Friday  at  noon, 
via  Alexandria. 
Arrival 
second  Saturday 
at  S  AM. 

Every  second  Saturday 
.roui  "Dec.  41  at  noon,  ria 
Syra  and  Plrsraa. 
Arrival  following 
Saturday  at  8.30  A.M. 

Every  secca/1  Thursday 
from  IVc.il  at  4  P.M. 
Arrival  second 
Saturday  at  8.30  A.M. 

Every  second  Tuesday  from 
Jan.  10th  at  8  P.M..  riu  Svra 
and  Smyrna.     Arrival  following 
Wednesday  at  i  A.M. 

Every  second  Tuesday  from  Jan. 
3d   »t  *  P.M..  ria  Syra,  Smyrna, 

second  Monday  at  4.30  A.M. 

Every  second  Tuesday  from 
Jan.    3d.t,I'.M 

lowing  Tuesday  at  7.30  A.M. 

Even-  ««eond  Tuesday  from 
Jan',   loth  ,  it  H   1 

Arrival  following  Suudav 
•t  6  A.M. 

Everv  second  Tuesday  from 
Jan.  10th  «tl»  P.M.,  via  Syra 

ond  Friday  at  S.  44  A.M. 

Everjr  second  Tuesday  from 
Jan.   Sd  «'  "  l'.M..naSyrt.. 
Smyrna,  and  Alexandria. 
Arrival  second  Saturday 
at  &  A.M. 

Every  second  Thursday 
from  Jan.  Mb  at  10A.M. 
Arrival 
following  Saturday 
at  8.30  A.M. 

Everv  second  Thundav  from 
Dec.  »  at  4  P.M.     Arriva! 
following  Wednesday  at  5  A.M. 

Every  second  Thursday  from 
Jan.SU  »'  *  P.M.."ri.« 
Alexandria.     Arrival 
second  Monday  at  4.3U  A.M. 

Every  second  Thursday 
from  'Jan.  5th  »t  4  P.M. 
Arrival  following  Tuesday 
at  1.30  A.M. 

Every  second  Thursday 
from  Dec.  S»  tt4  P.M..,'    . 
Svna.     Arrival  aecond 
"Sunday  at  6  A.M. 

Every  second  Thursday  from 
Uec.'»  at  4  P.M.     Arrival 
secoua  Friday  at  8.46  A.M. 

Every  seaKnd  Thursday 
from  Jan.  5th  at  4  P.M..  i,a 
Alexandria.     Arriva] 
second  Saturday  at  S  A.M. 

Every  second  Saturday 
from'l^v.  01  at  S  P.>f. 
Arrival  following 
Tuesday  at  3  P.M. 

Every  necond  Saturday  fr.>  M 
Dec.  31  at  noon.     Arrival 
following  Wednesday  at  5  A.M. 

Every  second  Saturday   from 
Jan.    7lh    at  4  P.M.'.  ria 

second  Monday  at  4  S'  A.M. 

i  very  second  Saturd  iv 
from  Jan.  7lh    at  4  P.M. 
Arrival  following  Tuesday 
at  7.30  A.M. 

Everv  second  Saturday 
from    Dec.  31  ..i 
\rriv.il  second 
Sund.-iy  at  li  A  M. 

nd  Saturday  from 
Dec.  31  at  noon.   Arrival  f..|- 
luwlngFridnyatP.45A.il. 

Every  second  Saturday 
from  Jan.  7th  at  4  P.M.  .Via 
Alexandria.     Arrival  fol- 
lowing Saturday  at  5  A.M. 

Every  second  Saturday 
fr..m  "Dec.  31  at  4  P.M.. 
x'a  Syr*  and  Piraeus. 
Arrival 
following  Saturday 
at  8.30  A.M. 

Every  second  Wednesday 

from'  Jan.  4th  MI  T   1>.M'. 
Arrival  following  Sunday 
at  6  A.M. 

Everv  second  Wednesday 
from'jan.  llth   at  7  A.M. 
Arrival  following  Sunday 
at  6  A.M. 

Every  aecond  Wednesday 
from"  Jan.  4th  at  T  A  ,\f 
Arrival  fallowing 
Friday  at  *.45  A.M. 

Fverv  second  Wednesday 
from  Jan.  llili  at  7  A.M. 

Every  second  Monday 
from  Jan.  Sd   at  7  P.M., 
ria  Smyrna,  Svra,  and 
Pirwus."    Arrival  third 
Saturday  at  8.30  A.M. 

Every  second  Monday 
from  Jan.  id   at  7  P.M.. 

Friday  at  8.30  A.M. 

Diirdau.     Arrival  tl.ir.l 
Tuesday  at  3  : 

Every  second  Friday  from 
Dec.  30  at  11  .VM. 
Arrival  following   Monday 
at  4.3(1  A.M. 

Every  swond  Friday  from 
Jan.  6th  at  9  A.'M. 
Arrival  following  Tuesday 
at  9.30  A.M. 

Every   Friday  morning. 
Arrival 
following  day  at  &  A.M. 

Even-  second  Tuesday 
from  Jan.  10th 
at  6  P.M.,  ria  Smyrna, 
Syra,  and  Pineiis. 
Arrival 
second  Saturday 
at  8.50  A.M. 

Every  second  Saturday  from 
"Dec-.il  at  S  P.M. 
Arrival  following  Monday 
at  4.30  A.M. 

Every  second  Sunday  from 
Jan.   8th   at  noo'n. 
Arrival  following  Tuesday 
at  9.30  A.M. 

Every  second  Saturday 
from  'Jan.  7th    at  noon. 
Arrival  following  day 
at  6  A.M. 

Every  second  Saturday 
from  'Dec.  31  at  10  A.M. 
Arrival  following  day 
at  «  A.M. 

Every  second  Saturday 

via  Alexandria,  Smyrna, 
Svra,  and  Pira?u's. 
Arrival 
in  14  davi  (Saturday) 
at  8'.30  A.M.     ' 

Ever}-  second  Wednesday  from 
Jan.  4th  at  4  P.M.,  rt'a  Pirtrui. 
Svra.  and  Smyrna.     Arrival  in  S 
weeks  (Wednesday)  at  &  A.M. 

F.v-rj-  second  Sunday  from 
Jan.  8th    at  -  A.M..  eta  Con- 
stantinople and  Smyrna.     Arri- 
val second  Wednesday  at  5  A.M. 

Every  second  Wednesday 
from  Jan.  4th  at  4  P.H..M 
Pirn-tH,  Syra,  and  Smyrna. 
Arrival"  third  Sunday 
•t  6  A.M. 

Every  second  Sanday  from 
Jan.  Btb    at  *  A.M'..  na 
O>nitantlnople  ai.d  Syria. 
Arrvnl  in  14  days 
i  Sundaw)  at  <  AM. 

Every  second   vrW.netdav 
fr  p.  /an.  4th  at  4  P.M.  .via 

-•,  ra.  and  Smyrna. 
Arrival  third  Friday 
at  8.4f.  A.M. 

Evtrv  second  Sunday  from 
Jan.  Mh   at  8  A.M'.,  vi'a 
Constantinople  aud  Syria. 
Arrival  second  Friday 
at   -.4-=.  A.M. 

95 


INCORPORATED  BY  ROYAL  CHARTER  1840. 
UNDER  CONTRACT  WITH  HER  MAJESTY'S  GOVERNMENT. 


INDIA,  CHINA,  AND   AUSTRALIAN   MAIL   PACKETS 

Weekly  from  London  (Royal  Albert  Docks),  with  Passengers  and  Specie,  to  the  Mediterranean, 
Egypt,  Aden,  and  Bombay. 

Weekly  from  Venice  and  Brindisi  to  Alexandria,  Aden,  and  Bombay. 

Fortnightly  from  London  (Royal  Albert  Docks),  with  Passengers  and  Specie,  to  Ceylon,  Ma- 
dras, Calcutta,  Straits.  China.  Japan,  Australia,  and  New  Zealand. 

SPECIAL    CHEAP    RETURN    TICKETS. 


For  INDIA  and  CEVLON- 

To  Bombay,  Calcutta,  Madras,     J  Available  for  3  months  from  departure  ) 

From  Venice 
and  back. 

Available 
via  London, 

Available 

via  I/>nd<m, 
t>«tk  ways. 

Clan. 
180 
90 
95 

100 
110 

105 

120 
110 
130 

105 
115 

Clan. 
£45 
60 
65 

50 
55 

55 
65 
65 
75 

65 

IK 
Clou. 

95 
100 

105 
115 

110 
125 
115 
135 

105 
115 

Clou. 
£60 
55 
60 

55 
60 

60 

70 
70 
80 

55 
65 

1* 

£90 
100 
105 

110 

120 

115 
130 
120 
150 

105 

115 

Clou. 
j£55 
60 
65 

60 
65 

65 

75 
75 
86 

55 
65 

Do   for  6  months 

Do.            Do.            

Do.  for  12  mouths  

For  the  STRAITS  SETT 

To  Singapore  and  Penang  
Do                   Do 

PLEMENTS— 

TV»    far  1  ?  mnnth* 

For  CHINA  and  JAPAN— 

TV.  .!„.,_  v   .,  .                              '   (  Available  for  9  months  from  departure  ) 

Do  

To  Shanghai  and  Yokohama.  .. 
Do.                     Do. 

For  AtSTRALIA- 

To  King  George's  Sound,  Glen- 
elg  Melbourne  Sydney 

Do.  for  9  months  
Do.  for  12  months  

(  Available  for  9  months  from  departure  ) 

Do.           Do.           

Return  Tickets  to  the  Mediterranean,  available  for  Three  Months,  are  also  issued. 
LONDON  to  MALTA  and  back £22     IDs.      I      LONDON  to  GIBRALTAR  and  back £15. 

Special  Circular  Tickets,  giving  varying  routes  and  combinations,  are  also  issued,  to  meet  the  tastes  and  requirements 
of  Tourists  and  others  visiting  the  East. 

Fleet  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Company. 

«&M  *$«- 


Commander.      £"*"   "  i!< 

lonnatje.  jj  p 

1.  ROME G.F.Cates 6013  6000 

2.  CARTHAGE G.  N.  Hector,  R.N.R... 5013  5000 

3.  VALETTA J.Orman 4911  5000 

4.  MASSILIA S.  D.  Shallard 4908  5000 

6.  PARRAMATTA  ..W.D.Anderson 4759  4000 

6.  BALI.AARAT P.  S.  Tomlin 4752  4000 

7.  CHUSAN H.Wyatt 4490  4000 

8.  TASMANIA C.G.  Perriru 4488  4000 

9.  GANGES W.  B.  Andrews 4196  4000 

....A.H.Johnson 4194  4000 

....J.S.Murray 4189  4000 

....E.M.Edmond,R.N.R..4124  4000 

...W.A.SeaU>n,R.N.R..410l  4000 

4023  3800 

3900  3500 

16.  PESHAWUR J.C.'Babot 3900  3500 

17.  MIRZAPORE R.Harvey 3x*7  3500 

18.  KHEDIVE M.deHorne 3860  3500 

19.  AUSTRALIA 3664  3300 

20.  BRINDISI I.  Reeves S542  2800 

51.  NEPAUL T.J.  Alderton 3536  3000 

52.  ROSETTA G.W.Brady 3502  3500 

53.  ROH1LLA W.  Barratt 3500  3500 

54.  INDUS W.E.Breeze S4W  5700 

55.  DECCAN :;-< 


10.  SUTLEJ  .... 

11.  SHANNON... 

12.  CLYDE 

13.  THAMES 

14.  KAISAR-I-HIND..E.G.  Stead... 

15.  PEKIN A.  Syi 


_ 

Commander.        "'P*  * 
Tonnage. 

26.  RAVENNA E.Stewart 3372 

27.  SURAT C.R.Edwards 3142 


POONAH.. 

29.  ANCONA.. 

30.  VERONA.. 

31.  SIAM 

32.  ASSAM 


J.  L.  Parfitt 3130 

R  G.  Murray 3128 


.L.H.Moule 3116 

E.  Ashdown SOU 

S.  F.  Cole 3a38 

33.  H Y DASPES H.  Scrivener 2984 

34.  CATHAY T.  Fairtloiurh 5983 

35.  M  AL  W  A A.  W .  Adamson 2959 

36.  BOKHARA H.  Wriglu-ll 2944 

37.  MONGOLIA C.  Fmser 2833 

38.  GWALIOR P.  Harris 2733 

39.  VENETIA A.B.  Daniell 2726 

40.  NIZAM W.  J.  WeM,,-r "Tlf, 

41.  LOMBARD  Y W.  E.  Thompson 2726 

42.  KASHGAR W.  A.  Wheler 2621 

«.  KHIVA K.  Sin-i-k 2609 

44.  THIBET W.  D.  Mudie 2593 

45.  TEHERAN W.  J.  Nantes 5688 

46.  SUMATRA W.Clement 2488 

47.  ZAMBESI S.  Bnson 2431 

48.  BANGALORE 2342 

.  TANMORE R.  F.  BrUi 


tine 

2600 
2600 
2600 
3300 
3300 
2500 
:»POO 
2600 
2600 
5600 
2500 
2600 
5500 
5500 
5500 
251 10 
2200 
2200 
2200 
2500 
2200 
1(00 
2500 
2000 
1200 
4000 


50 .   G  E  E I  .<  I N  H P .  W .  C  ase 1 835 

Building—  51.  COROMANDEL  .  .Greenock 4000 

THROUGH    SLEEPING   CARS 

now  run  between  Calais  and  Brindisi  ;  fare,  £'i  14«.  6rf.,  in  addition  to  ordinarv  fares.  Only  holders  of  these  ticket*  an 
allowed  to  travel  through  with  the  mails.  These  tickets  can  be  obtained  at  the  Office  of  the  Compagnie  Internationale 
des  Wagons- Lits,  25  Cockspur  Street,  Charing  Cross. 

PLYMOUTH. 

The  Company's  steamers  now  call  at  Plymouth  on  the  homeward  voyage  only,  for  the  convenience  of  those  passen- 
prt  wishing  to  dueuibark  there.    The  steamers  have  ceased  to  call  at  Southampton. 

96 


IMPERIAL  GERMAN  MAIL. 


HAMBURG-AMERICAN  PACKET  COMPANY, 

DIRECT  MAIL  SERVICE,  BY  MEANS  OF  THE  COMPANY'S  MAG- 
NIFICENT CLYDE-BCILT  IRON  MAIL  STEAMERS: 

FRISIA,  HOLSATIA,  BORUSSIA,  SILESIA.  HAMMOXIA, 

BAVARIA,        ALBIXGIA,  SAXOXIA,  ALLEMAXXIA,  RUGIA, 

HUXGARIA,    StT.VIA.  THURIXGIA,  TEUTOXIA,  RHAETIA, 

MORAVIA,       GELLERT,  LESSIXG,  RHEXANIA,  BOHEMIA. 

WESTPHALIA,  WIELAXD,  CYCLOP, 

HAMBURG— 1VEW   YORK. 

Prom  HAMBUKG,  every  WEDNESDAY  and  SUNDAY  Morning. 

Prom  HAYEE,         every  TUESDAY  Afternoon. 

From  NEW  YORK,  every  THURSDAY  and  SATURDAY  Noon. 

^fF"  On  t'ie  tr'P  to  Europe,  the  steamers  leaving  New  York  on  Thursdays 
touch  Plymouth  and  Cherbourg,  thus  forming  a  direct  line  to  England  and  France. 

PRICES  OF  PASSAGE  :  First  Cabin,  $70,  $60,  and  $55  Gold. 
RETURN  TICKETS:  First  Cabin,  $140,  $120,  and  $100  Gold. 

Through  Tickets  are  issued  from  Hamburg  and  Havre  to  San  Francisco,  Japan, 
China,  Honolulu,  Xew  Zealand,  and  Australia,  via  Erie  Railway  and  connecting 
roads,  Pacific  Railroad,  aud  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company. 

HAMBURG— WEST   INDIES. 

THREE   SAILINGS  EVERY  MOUTH. 

From    Hamburg on  the  6th,  21st,  and  24th  ; 

From   Havre on  the  9th,  24th,  and  1st; 

To  St.  Thomas,  San  Juan  de  Puerto  Rico,  Ponce,  Mayaguez,  Aguadilla,  Puerto  Plata, 
Samana,  Cape  Hayti,  Gonaives,  Port  au  Prince,  St.  Mark,  Aux  Cayes,  Jaemel,  La 
Guayra,  Puerto  Cabello,  Cun^ao,  Savanilla,  Cartagena,  Colon ;  and  via  Colon  and 
Panama  to  all  ports  of  the  Pacific ;  and  via  San  Francisco  to  China  and  Japan. 

HAMBURG— GULF  OF  MEXICO. 

MONTHLY  SAILINGS. 

From  HAMBURG  on  the  2d,  from  HAVRE  on  the  5th,  to  Vera  Cruz,  Tampico, 
and  Progreso. 

AGENCIES. 

HAMBURG AUGUST  BOI.TEX. 

LONDON,  PLYMOUTH,  AND  SOOTHAMFTON SMITH.  SUNDIUS.  k  DO 

HAVRE  AND  PARIS BROSTROM  &  CO. 

cn KKiii tUKG A.  Bosnia  \-  ni.s. 

NK\V  Y< )RK KUNHARirr  fc  CO. 

NEW*  YORK   PASSENGER  AGENCY C.B.RICHARD  &   BOAS. 

COLON  (ASI'INWALL)  AND  PANAMA FfRTH  &  CAMPBELL. 

ST.  THOMAS CAPT.  F.  BECKER,  SL  PWUSTMJDBIT. 

97 


WHITE    STA.K    LINE. 


The  well-known  magnificent  Steamers  of  this  Line  sail  every  Thursday  from 

LIVERPOOL    TO    NEW    YORK. 

CARRYING    HER    MAJESTY'S    AND    THE    UNITED    STATES    MAILS. 

SALOON". — The  Cabin  accommodation  is  in  the  centre  of  the  ship, where  the  noise  and  motion 
are  least. 

The  Indies'  Saloons  and  the  Smoke-Rooms  are  on  the  upper  deck,  and  are  commodious  and 
handsomely  furnished.  In  each  vessel  are  Piano,  Library.  Bath-Rooms,  Barber  Shop.  &c. 

Saloon  Passage,  12, 15,  IS,  or  22  Pounds  each  Berth. 

RETCRX  TICKETS,  AVAILABLE  FOR  TWELVE    MONTHS,  AT   REDUCED   RATES. 
ISIVTAY,  IMRIE,  <fc   CO.,  1O  "Water   Street,  Liverpool; 

And.    34    1  -endeiiliall     Street,  London,  E.  C. 
NEW  YORK :  K.  J.  Cortis,  37  Broadway — BOSTON  :  F.  A.  Adams  &  Co.,  115  State  Street. 

—CHICAGO  :  X.  Anderson,  48  South  Clark  Street PARIS:  H.  Genestal  &  Delzons,  1 

Hue  Scribe QUEEXSTOWX  :  James  Scott  &  Co. 

THE  IMPERIAL  AND  ROYAL 

DANUBE  STEAM  NAVIGATION  COMPANY. 


LINES    OF    STEAMERS 

FOR   PASSENGERS. 

On  the  Danube From  Passau  to  Gnlatz. 

On  the  Tlieiss From  Sze«>ediH  to  Tittel. 

On  the  Save From  Sissek  to  Belgrade. 


From  PASSAU  to  LINZ daily  3       P.M. 

"      LINZ         "  VIENNA "     1%  A.M. 

"      VIENNA  "    PESTH "      7       A.M. 


From  LINZ        to  PASSAU. .  .daily  at  6%  A.M. 

"      VIENNA  "  LINZ "      "  <o%  A.M. 

"      PESTH      "VIENNA...     "     "6      P.M. 


From  PESTH  to  SEMLIN  and  BELGRADE  six  times  a  week. 

From  PESTH  to  GIURGEVO  (Buchare'st)  and  GALATZ  three  times  a  week. 

Fares  Moderate— Excellent  Kestaurant  on  Board, 

Direct  service  between  VIENNA  and  CONSTANTINOPLE  twice  a  week  (Sunday  and  Wednes- 
day) by  the  Mail  Steamers  of  the  Company  to  RCSTCHUK,  thence  by  Rail  to  Varna,  and  from 
VARNA  to  CONSTANTINOPLE  by  the  Steamers  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd. 

From  VIENNA  to  CONSTANTINOPLE,  68  hours  only. 
From  CONSTANTINOPLE  to  VIENNA.  Sri  hours. 

FARES:  —  Vienna  to  Constantinople,  First  Class,  frcs.  186.75; 
Second  Class,  tree.  128.75. 

For  further  information,  apply  to  the  office  in  Vienna,  WKISSUAEKBKR,  HIXTZRE  ZOLLA.MTSSTKASSK. 
98 


GUION  LINE. 

United  States  Mail  Steamers, 


FOR   LIVERPOOL, 

From  Pier  New  38,  North  River,  New  York, 
EVERY    TUESDAY. 


WYOMING 3716  Tons. 

NEVADA. .  ...3125      " 


WISCONSIN' 3720  Tons. 

ALASKA..  ..6500     " 


ARIZONA 5300  Tons. 

These  Steamers  are  built  of  iron,  iu  water-tight  compartments,  and  are 
furnished  with  every  requisite  to  make  the  passage  across  the  Atlantic  both  safe 
and  agreeable  —  having  Bath -Room,  Smoking -Room,  Drawing -Room,  Piano,  and 
Library,  also  experienced  Surgeon,  Stewardess,  and  Caterer  on  each  Steamer. 

The  State-Rooms  are  all  on  Deck,  thus  insuring  those  greatest  of 
all  luxuries  at  sea,  perfect  Ventilation  and  Light. 

CA3IN  PASSAGE,  according  to  State-Rooms,  $60,  $80,  Or  $103. 
INTERMEDIATE,  $40.     STEERAGE,  $•_»*. 


Offices,  No.   29    Broadway,   New   York. 

WILLIAMS  &  GUION. 


99 


NATIONAL  LINE  TO  NEW  YORK. 

RENOWNED  FOR  SAFETY,  COMFORT,  AND  REGULARITY. 


THE  NATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY,  LIMITED, 

Despatch  one  of  their  Magnificent,  Full-Powered,  British  Iron  Screw  Steamships 

From  LIVERPOOL,  to  NEW  YORK  every  Wednesday 

(Calling  at  QUEENSTOWN  the  day  following),  and 

From  LONDON  to  NEW  YORK  Weekly. 

TONS. 

4  50 
4275 
4309 
4837 

From  New  York  to  Liverpool  Every  Saturday,  and  to  London  Weekly. 

The  New  Steamer  "AMERICA"  will  be  running  in  the  Season  1884.  She  is 
expected  to  rival  the  very  fastest  Atlantic  Steamer  in  speed,  and  her  Saloon  is  unique  in  style 
and  magnificence,  and  in  the  completeness  of  its  arrangements  for  the  comfort  of  passengers. 
The  "  EGYPT'S"  Saloon  has  been  altered,  enlarged,  and  re-decorated,  and  her  speed  increased 
through  being  re-boilered  and  completely  overhauled. 

The  SALOONS  in  the  other  Steamers  are  unusually  spacious,  and  are  particularly  well  lighted 
and  ventilated.  The  STATE  ROOMS,  all  on  the  Main  Deck  (in  some  of  the  steamers  opening  off 
the  saloons),  are  exceptionally  large,  light,  and  airy.  Pianos,  Ladies'  Saloons  both  on  deck  and 
below,  Gentlemen's  Smoking-Room,  and  ladies'  and  Gentlemen's  Bath-Rooms  are  provided, 

THE  CUISINE  IS  OF  THE  VERY  HIGHEST  ORDER. 


SHIPS. 
AMERICA  (New  Steamer) 
EGYPT 
SPAIN 
THE  QUEEN 

TON'S.              SHIPS. 

6000     ITALY 
4  C9     HELVETIA 
4512     ERIN  .. 
4457     HOLLAND.. 
DENMARK 

TON'S.              SHIPS. 

4302     FRANCE      . 
4587     CANADA     . 
4577     GREECE      . 
3847     ENGLAND 
3723 

SALOON  FARES  by  the  "  AMKRICA"  and  " EGYPT "—New  York  to 
Liverpool,  $80  to  $  1  5O.  Liverpool  to  New  York,  15  Guineas  1  5s.  to  25 
Guineas.  Return  Tickets  on  Special  Terms. 

SALOON    FARES    to   New   York   by   other    Steamers,    1O,    12,   and    15 
Guineas.     Return  Tickets  22  and  24  Guineas.     From  New  York  to  Liver- 
pool or  London  direct,  $5O  to  $70.     Return  Passages  at  Reduced  Rates. 
The  accommodation  for  Steerage  Passengers  is  of  the  highest  order. 


Apply  in  Paris  at  the  AMERICAN  EXCHANGE,  35  Boulevard  des  Capucines  ;  in  London,  at  the 
Company's  West  End  Offices  and  Reading-Rooms,  57  Charing  Cross;  in  Berlin,  to  CHARLES 
MESSING,  Potsdamer  Bahnhof;  in  Belfast,  to  HKNRY  GOWAN,  Victoria  Street;  in  Queenstown,  to 
N.  &  J.  CUMMINS  &  BROTHERS;  and  to 

THE  NATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY,  LIMITED, 

23   Water    Street,  Liverpool;   57    Chafing   Cross,  and   36    and  37 

Leadenhall  Street,  London; 

And  in  New  York  to  p.  W.  J.  HURST,  at  the  Company's  Offices. 
100 


NORTH-GERMAN  LLOYD  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY 

Carrying  tho  German  and  United  States  Mails. 
THIS   COMPANY    AUK    THEIIl   OWN    INSURERS. 


THE   FOLLOWING    MAGNIFICENT   STEAMER.^ 

»  ERRA,  Fr  LDA,  ELBE.  EMS,  EIDER,  NE<K  AR,  OI»ER.  DOXAI'.  MAIN,  RHEIN.  WESER, 

HERMANN,  AMEKK  A,  STR\SSBIU(i,  KOLN,  HANNOVER.  KRANKEl'RT.  (JEN- 

ERAL  WEKDER,  (JRAF  BISMARI  K,  KKOXl'KINZ  FR1E1IRICH   WILIIEI.M, 

HABSBl  RG.SALIER,  HOHENST.UFEN,  IIOIIENZOLLERN.  N"(  RNBI  KG, 

ItRAI  .NM'IIM  E1G.   LEIPZIG,  OHIO,    BERLIN,   BALTIMORE, 

ARE   Al'1'OINTKD    TO   SAIL   BETWEEN 

I.  BREMEN  AND  NEW  YORK, 

Calling  at  Southampton  out  and  home.     From  Bremen,  every  Sunday  and  Wednesday;  from 
Southampton,  every  Tuesday;  from  New  York,  every  Saturday  and  Wednesday. 

FARES. 


From  NEW  YORK  to 
BREMEN,  SOCTHAMPTON,  I/ONDON,  HAVRE. 

1st  Cabin $100 

2d  Cabin  . .  .60 


To  NEW  YORK  from 

1st         BREMEN,  PARIS,    SOCTHAMPTOX. 

Cabin  :  350  to 525  Mks.    440to625Frs.   £10  to £23 
2d  do:  300  Mks.  380  Frs.  £13 

UNEQUALLED  IN  SPEED  AND  COMFORT. 

Steamers  Werra,Fulda,&n<i  Elbe  make  the  voyage  between  Southampton  and  New  York  in  eight 
days.   These  steamers  leave  Bremen  Wednesdays,  Southampton  Thursdays,New  York  Wednesdays. 

II.  BREMEN  AND  BALTIMORE. 

From  Bremen,  Wednesday,  weekly.     From  Baltimore,  Thursday,  weekly. 

CABIN"    FARES. 

From  Bremen  to  Baltimore 4UO  Marks.  |  From  Baltimore  to  Bremen. $90  Gold 

III.  BREMEN  AND  NEW  ORLEANS, 

Calling  at  Havre  and  Havana,  once  a  month,  from  September  until  May. 

CABIN"    FARKS. 
To  HAVANA  and  NEW  ORLEANS  from 
BREMEN.       SOI-THAMPTON,       HAVRE,        PARIS, 
630  Mks.  £31  108.  F.  770          F.  785 

IV.  BREMEN  AND  BAHI4,  RIO  DE  JANEIRO,  AND  SANTOS, 

Culling  at  Antwerp  and  Lisbon.     Departure  from  Bremen,  25th;   Antwerp,  29th; 
Lisbon,  4th  or  5th  of  each  mouth. 

V.  BREMEN  AND  MONTEVIDEO  AND  BUENOS  AY  RES, 

Calling  at  Antwerp  and  Bordeaux.     Departure  from  Bremen,  10th;   Antwerp,  14th ;    Bordeaux, 
Httli  of  each  month. 


From  HAVANA  and  NEW  ORLEANS  to 

BUEMKN,   Sol'TII  AMI-TON,    HAVKE,   PAItIS, 
$150. 


AGENTS  IN  LONDON...  ..KELLER.  W.u.i.is.  &  bo.,  r.  and  7  Fenchurch  St.,  E.G. 

PHIII.IIM-S  *:  GRAVES.  St.  DunsUn'8  House.  Idol  Lane.  K. 
SOUTHAMPTON  ....................................  KELLER.  WAI.I  .-  .  *    Co 

I.IIKKIIKTTK.  KANE.  .V  Co.,  10  Rui 


.. 

H  \VKF  "  i.iiKRHKTTK.  RANK.  \   Co..  '."  Rue  <le  l:i  Bourse. 

NK\V  Vn'lik"  ...OELKH-HS  \  <  ,>  .  \.,  -j  Howling  Green. 

BALTIMORE'.".".'.".'.'..'......'......  .......................  ••••*.  scHntACMB 

NEW  ORLEANS  .......................................  «»•  *•  ST.H-KMEVER  &  (o. 

H  \v  \N  \  ..................................  H   l  PMANN  *  Co- 

AVTW'VUI'  ........  B.   DE    Vl.EKSIIill-WER. 

LISBON  '.""•  .......  -.'•  .....................  R  K>'"W'-KS  *  CO- 

BORDEAUX'.".!".'.'.'.'.'.!;!!^'.'.'.'.'.'..'.  ..............................  C"S  K'JK'"-KB 

Oflaoe  of  the  Company,  Bremen:  Papenstrasse  5. 


ACADIA. 
ALEXANDRIA, 
ALSATIA, 
ANCHORIA, 
ARMENIA, 
ASSYRIA, 
AUSTRALIA, 

BELGRAVIA, 
BOLIVIA, 
BRITANNIA, 
CALEDONIA, 
CALIFORNIA, 
CASTAUA, 
CIRCASSIA, 
COLUMBIA, 

DEVONIA, 
DORIAN, 
ELYSIA, 
ETHIOPIA, 
FURNESSIA, 
GALATIA, 
HESPERIA, 
HISPANIA. 

INDIA, 

ISCHIA, 

ITALIA. 

JUSTITIA, 

NUBIA, 

OLYMPIA, 

ROUMANIA, 


SCANDINAVIA. 

CITY  OK  ROME, 

SIDONIAN. 

TRINACRIA, 

TYKIAN, 

UTOPIA,. 

VICTORIA. 


Royal  and  United  States  Mail  Steamships. 

THE  ABOVE  STEAMSHIPS  WILL  SAIL  AS  UNDER: 

TO    NEW    YORK. 

Via  Moville,  Every  Friday. 

LIVERPOOL  TO  AND  FROM  NEW  YORK. 

NEW    YORK    TO    QLA_SGrOW, 
Via  Moville,  Every  Saturday. 

Passenger  accommodation  by  these  Steamers  unequalled  for  comfort  and  convenience. 
Staterooms  and  Saloons  elegantly  fitted  up  with  every  improvement.  Ladies'  Retiring  Cabins, 
Smoking-Rooms,  Baths,  Ice-Houses,  and  every  luxury. 

FARES.— Saloon  Cabin,  12  to  16  Guineas,  according-  to  the  loca- 
tion of  Staterooms— all  other  privileges  being  alike.  Children  at 
proportionate  rates.  Return  Tickets,  good  for  twelve  months,  on 
favorable  terms.  Fares  from  New  York,  from  $55  to  $80. 

Steamers  from  all  Italian  Ports  direct  to  New  Tori,  Twice  Monthly, 

For  further  information,  apply  to  any  of  the  ANCHOR  LIXE  Agents,  to  be  found  all  over  the  Con- 
tinent; or  to 

HENDERSON   BROTHERS, 

T  Bowling  Green,  New  York  ;  96  Washington  St.,  Chicago ;  3  Rue  Scribe,  Paris ; 
17  Water  St.,  Liverpool;  49  Union  St.,  Glasgow;  18  Leadenhall  St.,  London; 
and  7  &  9  State  St.,  Boston. 

Leghorn,  WILLIAM  MILLER;  Genoa,  CHARLES  FIGOLI;  Naples,  HOLME  & 
CO.;  Palermo,  PETER  TAGLIAYIA ;  Messina,  FRANCESCO  TAGLIAYIA; 
Dublin,  HENDERSON  BROTHERS,  13  Eden  Quay;  Londonderry,  HENDER- 
SON BROTHERS,  Eoyle  St. ;  (Jueenstown.  HENDERSON  BROTHERS,  Scott's 
Square;  Marseille?,  HENDERSON  BROTHERS,  2  Rue  de  Noailles. 
102 


HOFFMAN  HOUSE, 

Broadway  and  Madison  Square,  NEW  YORK, 

FAVORITE    FAMILY    II  Oil:  I.. 


•Miff 

miii 


The  Leading  Hotel  of  America.  ,  Containing  over  400  Rooms  Newlv  ami   Klcitanilv  Kunrshed 
KKST.UIU.VT,  1AFK,  AND  SALONS,  Mil:  FINKST  IN   THK  WORLD. 

ARPS.  p.  H.  REAP  &  CO.,  Proprietor*. 

American  •  Foreign  and  European  Express. 

FAST  FREIGHT  LINE  TO  EUROPE. 

FOREIGN  CARRIERS  TO  AND  FROM  ALL  PARTS  OF  THE  WORLD. 
Proprietors:    T3AVIES,  TURNER,  &  CO. 

Chief  Office  :  34  Broadway,  New  York. 


Til  I«M  4.11   BILLS  OF  LADING,  for  freight  and  baggage,  issued  from 
mOlCK   to  all  parts  of  EUROPE,  INDIA,  AUSTRALIA,  CHINA.  <   I   It  \  . 

AFRICA,  &c..  &c. 

Agents  in  all  the  principal  cities  of  the  world. 

t&~  Baggage  sent  from  Ell  It  OP  E,  addressed  to  us  here,  will  be  immediately  cared  fv 
Hid  stored,  to  await  arrival  of  owni-rs. 

All  further  information  on  application  at         34  Broadway.  New  York,  U.K.  A. 

B  ^L  S  L  E. 


HOTEL  DE  LA  POSTE.-POST  HOTEL, 

Opposite  Post  and  Telegraph  Office  and  Exchange, 
NEAR    THE    RHINE. 

Second-Class     Hotel.        Moderate     Charges. 

Kept  by  BKUDEKLIN,  Proprietor. 

FORMERLY   CHEF  DE  CUISINE  WITH   ROTHSCHILD   MAYER,  PARIS. 

103 


THE 


PHILADELPHIA,    PA. 

J.  EJ.  KINGSLEY    &    CO.,    Proprietors. 

THE  CONTINENTAL,  is  unsurpassed  in  LOCATION,  ORGANIZATION,  AP- 
POINTMENTS, and  CUISINE,  and  has  every  modern  inprovement  for  the 
comfort  of  its  patrons.  It  is  conducted  on  the  AMERICAN  PLAN,  at  rates 
ranging  from  $3.00  to  $4.00  per  day  —  according  to  rooms.  Private  Parlors 
and  other  extra  accommodations  in  reasonable  proportion. 

Five  minutes'  ride  from  Penn.  R.  R.  Station  in  Hansom  Cab. 


HARPER'S   PERIODICALS. 

Per  Year : 

HARPER'S   MAGAZINE $400 

HARPER'S  WEEKLY 4  00 

HARPER'S  BAZAR 400 

HARPER'S  YOUNG   PEOPLE 2  00 

HARPER'S    FRANKLIN    SQUARE    LIBRARY,  One 

Number  each  week  for  One  Year 10  00 

Postage  Free  to  all  Subscribers  in  the   United  States  or  Canada. 

HARPER'S  FRANKLIN  SQUARE  LIBRARY  :  a  weekly  publication, 
containing  works  of  Travel,  Biography.  History,  Fiction,  and  Poetry,  at 
prices  ranging  from  10  to  25  cents  per  number.  Full  list  of  Harper'* 
Franklin  Square  Library  will  be  furnished  gratuitously  on  application  to 
HARPER  &  BROTHERS. 

Remittances  should  be  made  by  Post-Office  Money  Order  or  Draft,  to 
avoid  risk  of  loss.     Address 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  Franklin   Square,  N.  Y. 

HARPER'S  CATALOGUE,  of  between  three  and  four  thousand  vol- 
umes, mailed  on  receipt  of  Ten  Cents  in  Postage  Stamps. 
104 


LONG  BRANCH,  N.  J. 


WEST  END  HOTEL 


AND 

COTTAGES. 


DAVID    M    HILDRETH,   OF    NEW   YORK, 


Owner  and  Proprietor. 


105 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  New  York. 


UNITED  STATES  HOTEL. 


H.  TOMPKIXS,  : 
J.  L.  PERRV, 


TOMPKINS,  GAGE,  &  CO,,  Proprietors, 


[  W.  B.  GAGE, 
L.  H.  JANVRIK 


The  Largest  Hotel  in  the  World. 

917  Rooms  for  Guests;  Line  of  Buildings  over  1500  feet  long;  6  Stories  High; 

Covering  and  Enclosing  7  Acres  of  Ground ;  236  feet  frontage  on 

Broadway,  675  feet  frontage  on  Division  Street. 

THE  SUMMER   RESIDENCE  OF  THE   MOST   REFINED   CIRCLES  OF 
AMERICAN  FASHION  AND  SOCIETY. 

Orchestra,  Hops,  Germans,  Balls,  Concerts,  Entertainments,  tc, 

Most  elegantly  furnished  Parlors,  Ball-Room,  Public  and  Private  Dining-Rooms, 
Reading-Room*,  &c.  Private  Villas  of  any  size  in  the  Cottage  Wing. 

Unexcelled  in  everything  pertaining  to  elegance,  magnificence,  convenience,  and 
attractiveness,  by  any  house  in  the  world. 

The  establishment  is  under  the  experienced  management  of  the  Proprietors. 


106 


BROWN  BROTHERS  &  CO., 

59  Wall  Street,  New  York, 

211  Chestnut  Street,  Philadelphia,  and  66  State  Street,  Boston. 

ALEXANDER     BROWN    &    SONS, 

Corner  Baltimore  and  Calvert  Streets,  Baltimore. 


BUY  AND  SELL  BILLS  OF  EXCHANGE 

On  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  France,  Germany,  Belgium,  Holland, 
Switzerland,  Norway,  Denmark,  Sweden,  and  Australia. 

ISSUE  COMMERCIAL  AXD  TRAVELLERS'  CREDITS 

IN"    STERLINGS, 

Available  in  any  part  of  the  World ;  in  Dollars,  for  Use  in  this  and  Adjacent 
Countries ;  and  in  Francs,  for  Use  in  Martinique  and  Guadeloupe. 

Make  Telegraphic  Transfers  of  Money 

BETWEEN  THIS  COUNTRY  AM)  EUROPE. 


Make  Collections  of  Drafts  drawn  abroad  on  all  Points  in  the  United 

States  and  Canada,  and  of  Drafts  drawn  in  the  United 

States  on  Foreign  Countries. 


TO  TRAVELLERS.  — Travellers'  Credits  issued  either  against  cash  deposited  or  satisfactory 
guarantee  of  repayment :  in  Poll.irs.  for  use  in  the  United  SMK-S  and  adjacent  countries;  or  in 
Pounds  Sterling,  for  use  in  any  part  of  the  world.  Application  for  credits  may  be  addressed  to 
either  of  the  above  houses  direct,  or  through  any  first-class  Bank  or  Banker. 


BROWN,  SHIPLEY.  *  CO.,  BROWN,  SHIPLEY,  *  CO., 

26  Chapel  Street,  LlTerpool.  Founder's  Court,  Lothbnry,  London. 

107 


THE  PARIS  COMMUNE. 

THE  RISE  AND  FALL  OF  THE  PARIS  COMMUNE  IN  1871  ;  with  a 
Full  Account  of  the  Bombardment,  Capture,  and  Burning  of  the  City.  By 
W.  PEMBROKE  FETRIDGE,  an  Eye- Witness  of  the  Events  described,  Editor 
of  "Harper's  Hand-Book  of  European  Travel,"  "Harper's  Phrase-Book," 
&c.  With  a  Map  of  Paris  and  Portraits  from  Original  Photographs.  Large 
1'Jmo,  o!6  pages,  Cloth,  $200.  Published  by  HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  N.  Y. 


FROM    NAPOLEON   III. 

ith  November,  1871. 
Monsieur  W.  PEMBROKE  FETRIDGE,  Paris. 

MONSIEUR, — The  Emperor  has  charged  me  to  inform  you  that  he  has  received 
your  letter,  also  your  history  of  the  Paris  Commune. 

His  Majesty  has  read  the  work  with  the  greatest  interest,  and  has  requested  me 
to  express  to  you  his  sincere  thanks. 

Receive,  Monsieur,  the  assurance  of  my  distinguished  consideration. 

COUNT  DAVILLIER. 

FROM   MR.  WASHBURNE. 

LEGATION  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES,  PARIS,  October  27th,  1871. 
MY  DEAR  MR.  FETRIDGE  : 

You  have  my  sincere  thanks  for  sending  me  a  copy  of  your  history  of  the  Com- 
mune of  Paris.  I  have  read  it  with  great  pleasure.  You  have  grouped  together 
the  facts  and  given  your  narrative  all  the  interest  of  a  romance.  In  after-years  the 
perusal  of  it  will  briny:  to  our  minds  the  wonderful  events  which  yon  and  1  wit- 
nessed, and  which  tilled  the  civilized  world  with  horror. 
Believe  me,  my  clear  Mr.  Fetridge, 

Very  sincerely  and  truly  yours,  E.  B.  WASIIBURNE. 

W.  PEMBROKE  FETIUDGE,  Esq.,  Paris. 


FROM  GENERAL  READ,  United  States  Consul  General. 

PARIS,  37  AVENUE  D'ANTIN,  CHAMPS  ELYSEES,  November  Wi,  1871. 

My  most  sincere  thanks  attend  you,  my  dear  Mr.  Fetridge. 

I  have  read  the  history  of  the  Commune  with  absorbing  interest,  nnd  I  must 
frankly  confess  that  you  have  deprived  me  of  two  nights'  rest.  Not  that  I  look 
upon  my  time  as  lost,  for  your  narrative  is  wonderfully  attractive.  It  is  also  so 
consecutive  in  its  treatment  that  the  stirring  and  terrible  scenes  of  that  most  re- 
markable drama  in  French  history,  through  which  we  both  passed,  arise  before  me 
with  almost  painful  accuracy. 

You  have  given  to  the  world  the  most  complete  and  the  most  picturesque  idea 
of  the  extraordinary  events  of  the  Second  Siege  which  bus  appeared. 

A  somewhat  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  difficulties  attending  such  a  literary 
performance — among  others  the  apparent  impossibility  of  separating  tact  from  fic- 
tion— enables  me  to  congratulate  you  most  heartily  upon  the  tact  and  judgment 
which  you  have  displayed  in  the  construction  of  your  work. 

You  and  I  do  not  a'gree  upon  certain  points;  bat,  when  we  differ,  I  am  led  to 
respect  your  ability,  and  to  admire  the  skill  with  which  you  present  certain  argu- 
ments to  which  I  can  not  entirely  give  my  assent. 

You  deserve  great  credit  for  having  remained  in  your  exposed  quarters,  coolly 
watching  the  events  whose  progress  you  were  chronicling  moment  by  moment. 
Having  witnessed  your  sangfroid  during  the  most  trying  hours,  I  am  happy  to  bear 
my  personal  testimony  to  your  entire  fitness  to  judge  dispassionately  the  situation. 

With  renewed  acknowledgments,  therefore,  and  great  respect,  I  have  the  honor 
to  remain,  my  dear  Mr.  Fetridgc.  your  friend, 

JOHN  MEREDITH  READ,  JR.,  M.R.S.A.,  F.R.S.N.A. 

W.  PEMBROKE  FETRIDGE,  Esq.,  13  Avenue  de  1'Impe'ratrice,  Paris. 
108 


HARPER'S  PHRASE-BOOK; 

OR, 

HAND-BOOK  OF  TRAVEL  TALK 

FOR  TRAVELERS  AND  SCHOOLS. 

BEING  A 

Guide  to  Conversation  in  English,  French,  German  and  Italian, 

ON  A  NEW  AND  IMPROVED  METHOD. 

Intended  to  accompany  "Harper's  Hand-Booh  for  Travelers." 
By  W.  PEMBROKE  FETRIDGE, 

Author  of  "Harper's  Hand-Book,"  "Rise  and  Fall  of  the  Paris  Commune  in  1871,"  Ac.; 

ASSISTED   ItY   PROFESSORS   OF   UEIDKI.BEBQ   US1VEB6ITV. 

With  Concise  and  Explicit  Rales  for  the  Pronunciation  of  the  different  Languages. 
Square  4to,  Flexible  Cloth,  $1  50. 


*  *  *  We  do  not  hesitate  to  pronounce  this  the  best-prepared  volume  of  iU 
class  that  has  ever  come  under  our  eye.  By  experience  Mr.  Fctridgc  has  ascer- 
tained what  is  wanted,  and  he  has  made  a  volume  to  meet  the  popular  demand. — 
Boston  Journal. 

7  109 


LAWS  AND  REGULATIONS  OF 

SHORT  WHIST. 


ADOPTED    BY    THE 


WASHINGTON  CLUB  OF  PARIS. 

Compiled  from  the  Best  Modern  Authorities,  and  as  Played  in  the  Principal  Clubs  of  London  and 
Paris,  and  in  the  First  Saloons  of  both  Capitals;  with  Maxims  and  Advice  for  Beginners. 

By  W.  PEMBROKE    FETRIDGE. 

AUTHOR  OF  "HARPER'S  HAND-BOOKS,"  "THE  RISE  AND  FALL  OF  THE  PARIS  COMMUNE," 
"HARPER'S  PHRASE-BOOK,"  Eta,  ETC. 


OPINIONS    OF    THE    PRESS. 

Lovers  of  the  game  cannot  fail  to  welcome  and  be  interested  in  this  lively  little  manual.  *  *  * 
The  technical  terms  are  lucidly  defined,  and  then  follow  the  rules  proper,  95  in  number,  involving 
many  nice  points  and  subtle  discriminations.  *  *  *  The  maxims  for  beginners  and  the  general  in- 
structions which  follow  them  indicate  a  close  scrutiny  and  thoroirgh  understanding  of  the  game, 
and  will  be  found  valuable  to  many  who  already  consider  themselves  experts. — New  York  Times. 

The  little  book  is  an  adjunct  which  should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  devotee  of  the  noble 
game. — New  York  Era. 

This  book  is  written  to  combat  and  confute  some  decisions  made  by  self-constituted  authori- 
ties, in  which  decisions  are  contrary  to  Hoyle,  and  ugaiust  all  the  laws  and  usages  of  Whist 
clubs. — St.  Louis  Republican. 

The  preface  is  very  amusing  in  the  sarcastic  tone  it  adopts  toward  "Cavendish,"  whom  it 
overhauls  unmercifully  as  a  pretender,  and  whose  claim  as  a  final  authority  it  disputes.  The  rules 
of  the  game  are  laid  out  with  great  clearness,  and  the  maxims  and  advice  given  for  the  benefit 
of  students  and  beginners  are  comprehensive  and  logical,  and  founded  upon  the  soundest  princi- 
ples. The  best  method  of  play  for  each  hand  is  thoroughly  argued,  and  there  is  a  very  valuable 
table  of  deductions  or  inferences  to  be  drawn  from  leads  and  play.  In  short,  this  little  volume 
merits  the  attentive  consideration  of  amateur  whist  players,  to  whom  it  will  prove  of  the  greatest 
service. — Saturday  Evening  Gazette.  Boston. 

This  little  book  will  undoubtedly  be  welcomed  by  all  lovers  of  the  game,  and  settles  some  dis- 
puted questions.  —  Chicago  Tribune. 

The  value  of  this  volume  (albeit  it  is  not  a  large  one)  consists  in  the  calm  and  logical  manner 
in  which  the  subject  discussed  is  treated,  the  clearness  of  the  definitions  given,  the  thorough  ac- 
quaintance with  the  topics  presented,  which  is  manifest  on  every  page,  and  the  con  amore  and 
sympathetic  tone  which  interpenetrates  everything  that  is  said.  A  very  interesting  and  subjec- 
tive preface  is  followed  by  a  short  introduction.  After  a  statement  of  the  different  games  of 
whist,  technical  terms  are  defined,  and  then  come  the  ninety-five  rules  of  Short  Whist  of  the 
Washington  Club  of  Paris.  The  leading  topics  of  the  remainder  of  the  book  are  maxims  and  ad- 
vice for  students  and  beginners,  asking  for  trumps,  the  original  lead,  leads  generally,  second  hand, 
third  hand,  passing  the  trick  or  finessing,  fourth  hand,  deductions  or  inferences  from  leads  and 
plays,  and  the  thirteenth  card.  To  every  lover  of  whist,  and  to  every  one  who  wishes  to  learn  the 
game,  we  unhesitatingly  commend  this  volume. — Troy  Morning  Whig. 

Nowhere  outside  of  England  is  whist  more  played  among  the  better  classes  than  in  Virginia, 
and  we  do  not  doubt  that  this  volume  will  meet  here  a  cordial  reception. — Index  and  Appeal, 
"etersburg,  Va. 

We  have  no  doubt  that  this  little  manual  will  become  the  standard  authority.— Boston 
Traveller. 

The  book  is  certainly  the  best  compendium  of  the  laws  of  this  great  social  game  that  we  have 
yet  seen.— St.  John  Globe,  St.  John,  N.  B. 

The  editor  has  left  no  source  of  information  unsought,  and  the  result  of  his  investigations 
will  be  found  of  the  highest  value. — St.  Louis  Globe- Democrat. 

Lovers  of  this  time  honored  pastime  will  be  interested  in  this  handy  little  guide  to  accurate 
play  ing.  —National  Journal  of  Education,  Boston. 

The  author  gives  much  valuable  advice  to  lovers  of  this  noble  game. — Baltimore  Gazette. 

It  is  accompanied  with  maxims  and  advice  for  beginners,  and  its  treatment  of  the  subject  is 
most  thorough,  systematic,  and  exhaustive.—  Boston  Commercial  Bulletin. 

With  two  hundred  other  notices  of  similar  character. 

NEW  YORK:— HARPER  &  BROTHERS. 

LONDON:— W.   J.   ADAMS     &    SONS,   59    FLEET    STREET. 

PARIS :— GALIGNANI  &  CO.,  224  RUE  Rivou. 


HARPER'S  HAI-BOOK  TO 


PRESS    EXTRACTS. 

New  York  Herald. — Harper's  Guides  for  Travellers  in  Europe  and  the  East 
constitute  a  most  complete  work  of  their  kind  ;  *  *  *  enriched  by  115 
maps,  plans,  and  diagrams  of  countries  and  routes,  rendering  the  Guides 
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New  York  World. — Not  only  have  these  well-known  and  long-established 
guide-books  *  *  * 

JV<  <r  York  Journal  of  Commerce. — Nobody  can  get  along  over  there  without 
a  first-rate  guide-book.  Harper  &  Brothers  have  been  supplying  the 
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The  North  American. — No  other  hand-book  at  once  so  trustworthy  and  so 

comprehensive  is  before  the  public. 
Boston  Post, — Altogether  the  work  is  one  that  no  traveller  in  Europe  can 

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Boston  Adnrtiwr. — The  most  complete  and  comprehensive  guide-book  for 

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Boston  Trutixcript. — European  travellers  accord  the  highest  and  best  words 

of  praise  to  these  books,  both  for  accuracy  and  completeness. 
Bostoii  II,  rnlii. — No  American  should  think  of  travelling  in  Europe  without 

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Boston  Courier.  —  Too  well  known  in  former  editions  to  need  extensive 

notice. 

Boston  Travdlcr. — Unquestionably  the  best  work  of  the  sort  to  be  had. 
Philadelphia  Times. — All  that  the  most  exacting  desire  for  accuracy  could 

wish. 

Hartford  Conrant.—  Every  traveller  needs  them. 
Boston  Gazette. — Its  worth  is  so  widely  recognized  and  so  fully  established 

as  to  make  further  comment  upon  its  desirability  quite  superfluous. 
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thorough  of  the  many  guide  books  issued 
New  York  Star. — It  is  an  invaluable  work. 
Christian  Advocate,  New  York. — Has  guided  thousands  successful'v  through 

the  countries  covered,  and  it  remains  the  standard  American  guide  book. 

Ill 


VALUABLE  AND  INTERESTING  WORKS 

FOR 


PUBLISHED  BY  HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  XKW  YORK. 


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|y  HARPKR  &  BKOTIIKIIS  will  send  their  publications  by  mail,  postage  prepaid,  on 
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MACAULAY'S  ENGLAND.  The  History  of  England  from  the  Acces- 
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MACAULAY'S  MISCELLAXKOCS  WORKS.  The  Miscellaneous  Works 
of  Lord  Macaulay.  From  New  Electrotype  Plates.  5  vols.,  in  a  Box, 
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HUME'S  ENGLAND.  History  of  England,  from  the  Invasion  of  Julius 
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and  Elegant  Library  Edition,  from  New  Electrotype  Plates.  G  vols.,  in  a 
Box,  8vo,  Cloth,  with  Paper  Labels,  Uncut  Edges,  and  Gilt  Tops,  $12  00 ; 
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GIBBON'S  HOME.  The  History  of  the  Decline  and  Fall  of  the  Roman 
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HILDRETH'S  UNITED  STATES.  History  of  the  United  States.  FIRST 
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Congress.  By  RICHARD  HILDRETH.  Popular  Edition,  G  vols.,  in  a 
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MOTLEY'S  JOHN  OF  BARNEVELD.  The  Life  and  Death  of  John  of 
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GEDDES'S  JOHN  DE  WITT.  History  of  the  Administration  of  John, 
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SYMONDS'S  GREEK  POETS.  Studies  of  the  Greek  Poets.  By  JOHN 
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HUDSON'S  HISTORY  OF  JOURNALISM.  Journalism  in  the  United 
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LOSSING'S  CYCLOPAEDIA  OF  UNITED  STATES  HISTORY.  From 
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LOSSING'S  FIELD-BOOK  OF  THE  REVOLUTION.  Pictorial  Field- 
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DEXTER'S  CONGREGATIONALISM.  The  Congregationalism  of  the 
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GREEN'S  CONQUEST  OF  ENGLAND.  The  Conquest  of  England. 
By  J.  R.  GEEEN.  With  Maps.  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

SHORT'S  NORTH  AMERICANS  OF  ANTIQUITY.  The  North 
Americans  of  Antiquity.  Their  Origin,  Migrations,  and  Type  of  Civiliza- 
tion Considered.  By  JOHN  T.  SHOBT.  Illustrated.  Svo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

SQUIER'S  PERU.  Peru :  Incidents  of  Travel  and  Exploration  in  the 
Land  of  the  Incas.  By  E.  GEOBGE  SQUIEH,  M.A.,  F.S.A.,  late  U.  S. 
Commissioner  to  Peru.  With  Illustrations.  Svo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 


Valuable  Worts  for  Public  and  Private  Libraries.  6 

BENJAMIN'S  ART  IN  EUROPE.  Contemporary  Art  in  Europe.  By 
S.  G.  W.  BENJAMIN.  Illustrated.  8vo,  Clotli,  $ 3  50 ;  Half  Calf,  $5  75. 

BENJAMIN'S  ART  IN  AMERICA.  Art  in  America.  By  S.  G.  W. 
BENJAMIN.  Illustrated.  8vo,  Cloth,  $4  00 ;  Half  Calf,  $6  25. 

REBER'S  HISTORY  OF  ANCIENT  ART.  History  of  Ancient  Art. 
By  Dr.  FRANZ  VON  REBER.  Revised  by  the  Author.  Translated  and 
Augmented  by  Joseph  Timelier  Clarke.  With  310  Illustrations  and  a 
Glossary  of  Technical  Terms.  8vo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 

ADAMS'S  MANUAL  OF  HISTORICAL  LITERATURE.  A  Manual 
of  Historical  Literature.  Comprising  Brief  Descriptions  of  the  Most 
Important  Histories  in  English,  French,  and  German.  By  Professor 
C.  K.  ADAMS,  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

KINGLAKE'S  CRIMEAN  WAR.  The  Invasion  of  the  Crimea:  its 
Origin,  and  an  Account  of  its  Progress  down  to  the  Death  of  Lord 
Raglan.  By  ALEXANDER  WILLIAM  KINGLAKE.  With  Maps  and  Plans. 
Four  Volumes  now  ready.  12mo,  Cloth,  $2  00  per  vol. 

MAURY'S  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY  OF  THE  SEA.  The  Physical 
Geography  of  the  Sea,  and  its  Meteorology.  By  M.  F.  MAURY,  LL.D. 
8ro,  Cloth,  $4  00. 

HALLAM'S  LITERATURE.  Introduction  to  the  Literature  of  Europe 
during  the  Fifteenth,  Sixteenth,  and  Seventeenth  Centuries.  By  HENKY 
HALLAM.  2  vols.,  8vo,  Cloth,  $4  00;  Sheep,  $5  00. 

HALLAM'S  MIDDLE  AGES.  View  of  the  State  of  Europe  during  the 
Middle  Ages.  By  II.  HALLAM.  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  00 ;  Sheep,  $2  50. 

HALLAM'S   CONSTITUTIONAL    HISTORY   OF  ENGLAND.     The 

Constitutional  History  of  England,  from  the  Accession  of  Henry  VII.  to 
the  Death  of  George  II.  By  HENRY  HALLAM.  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  00; 
Sheep,  $2  50. 

NEWCOMB'S  ASTRONOMY.  Popular  Astronomy.  By  SIMON  NKW- 
COMB,  LL.D.  With  112  Engravings,  and  5  Maps  of  the  Stars.  8vo, 
Cloth,  $2  50;  School  Edition,  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  30. 

VAN-LENNEP'S  BIBLE  LANDS.  Bible  Lands :  their  Modern  Custom, 
and  Manners  Illustrative  of  Scripture.  By  HENRY  J.  VAN-LENNEP, 
D.I).  350  Engravings  and  2  Colored  Maps.  8vo,  Cloth,  $5  00;  Sheep, 
$6  00 ;  Half  Morocco,  $8  00. 

GROTE'S  HISTORY  OF  GREECE.  12  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $18  00, 
Sheep,  $22  80 ;  Half  Calf,  $39  00. 


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ENGLISH  MEN  OF  LETTERS.  Edited  by  JOHN  MOB  LEY.  The  fol- 
lowing volumes  are  now  ready.  Others  will  follow : 

JOHNSON.  By  L.  Stephen.  —  GIBBON.  By  J.  C.  Morison. — SCOTT. 
By  R.  H.  Mutton. — SHELLKY.  By  J.  A.  Symonds. — GOLDSMITH.  By 
W.  Black. — HUME.  By  Professor  Huxley. — DEFOE.  By  W.  Minto. — 
BURNS.  By  Principal  Shairp. — SPENSER.  By  R.  W.  Church. — THACK- 
ERAY. By  A.  Trollope.  —  BCRKE.  By  J.  Morley.  —  MILTON.  By  M. 
Pattison. — SOUTHEY.  By  E.  Dowden. — CHAUCER.  By  A.  W.  Ward. 
— BUNYAN.  By  J.  A.  Froude. — COWPER.  By  G.  Smith. — POPE.  By 
L.  Stephen. — BYRON.  By  J.  Nichols. — LOCKE.  By  T.  Fowler. — 
WORDSWORTH.  By  F.  W.  II.  Myers.  —  HAWTHORNE.  By  Henry 
James,  Jr. — DRYDEN.  By  G.  Saintsbtiry. — LANDOK.  By  S.  Colvin. 
— DE  QUINCEY.  By  D.  Masson. — LAMB.  By  A.  Aingcr. — BENTLEY. 
By  R.  C.  Jebb.  —  DICKENS.  By  A.  W.  Ward.  —GRAY.  By  E.  W. 
Gosse. — SWIFT.  By  L.  Stephen. — STERNE.  By  H.  D.  Traill. — MACAU- 
LAY.  By  J.  C.  Morison. — FIELDING.  By  Austin  Dobson. — SHERIDAN. 
By  Mrs.  Oliphant. — ADDISON.  By  W.  J.  Courthope. — BACON.  By  R.  W. 
Church. — COLERIDGE.  By  H.  D.  Traill.  12mo,  Cloth,  75  cts.  per  vol. 

PRIME'S  POTTERY  AND  PORCELAIN.  Pottery  and  Porcelain  of 
All  Times  and  Nations.  With  Tables  of  Factory  and  Artists'  Marks,  for 
the  Use  of  Collectors.  By  WILLIAM  C.  PRIME,  LL.D.  Illustrated. 
8vo,  Cloth,  Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt  Tops,  $7  00 ;  Half  Calf,  $9  25.  (In 
a  Box.) 

CESNOLA'S  CYPRUS.  Cyprus:  its  Ancient  Cities,  Tombs,  and  Tem- 
ples. A  Narrative  of  Researches  and  Excavations  during  Ten  Years'  Resi- 
dence in  that  Island.  By  L.  P.  DI  CESNOLA.  With  Portrait,  Maps,  and 
400  Illustrations.  8vo,  Cloth,  Extra,  Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt  Tops,  $7  50. 

TENNYSON'S  COMPLETE  POEMS.  The  Complete  Poetical  Works  of 
Alfred,  Lord  Tennyson.  With  an  Introductory  Sketch  by  Anne  Thackeray 
Ritchie.  With  Portraits  and  Illustrations.  8vo,  Cloth.  (In  Press.) 

FLAMMARION'S  ATMOSPHERE.  Translated  from  the  French  of 
CAMILLE  FLAMMARION.  With  10  Chromo-Lithographs  and  86  Wood- 
cuts. 8vo,  Cloth,  $  G  00  ;  Half  Calf,  $8  25. 

STRICKLAND'S  (Miss)  QUEENS  OF  SCOTLAND.  Lives  of  the 
Queens  of  Scotland  and  English  Princesses  connected  with  the  Regal 
Succession  of  Great  Britain.  By  AGNES  STRICKLAND.  8  vols.,  12mo, 
Cloth,  $12  00.;  Half  Calf,  $26  00. 

BLAIKIE'S  LIFE  OF  DAVID  LIVINGSTONE.  Memoir  of  his  Per- 
sonal Life,  from  his  Unpublished  Journals  and  Correspondence.  By  W. 
G.  BLAIKIE,  D.D.  With  Portrait  and  Map.  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  25. 


Valuable  Works  fof  Public  and  Private  Libraries.  7 

BAKER'S  ISMAILIA:  a  Narrative  of  tlic  Expedition  to  Central  Africa 
for  the  Suppression  of  the  Slave  trade,  organized  by  Ismail,  Khedive  of 
Egypt.  By  Sir  SAMUEL  W.  BAKER.  With  Maps,  Portraits,  and  Illustra- 
tions. 8vo,  Cloth,  $5  00 ;  Half  Calf,  $7  25. 

LIVINGSTONE'S  SOUTH  AFRICA.  Missionary  Travels  and  Re- 
searches in  South  Africa:  including  a  Sketch  of  Sixteen  Years'  Resi- 
dence in  the  Interior  of  Africa,  and  a  Journey  from  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  to  Loanda,  on  the  West  Coast ;  thence  across  the  Continent,  down 
the  River  Zambesi,  to  the  Eastern  Ocean.  By  DAVID  LIVINGSTONE. 
With  Portrait,  Maps,  and  Illustrations.  8vo,  Cloth,  $4  50. 

LIVINGSTONE'S  ZAMBESI.  Narrative  of  an  Expedition  to  the  Zam- 
besi and  its  Tributaries,  and  of  the  Discovery  of  the  Lakes  Shinva  and 
Nyassa,  1858  to  18G4.  By  DAVID  and  CHARLES  LIVINGSTONE.  Illus- 
trated. 8vo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

LIVINGSTONE'S  LAST  JOURNALS.  The  Last  Journals  of  David 
Livingstone,  in  Central  Africa,  from  1865  to  his  Death.  Continued  by 
a  Narrative  of  his  Last  Moments,  obtained  from  his  Faithful  Sen-ants 
Chuma  and  Susi.  By  HORACE  WALLER.  With  Portrait,  Maps,  and 
Illustrations.  8vo,  Cloth,  $5  00 ;  Sheep,  $6  00.  Cheap  Popular  Edi- 
tion, 8vo,  Cloth,  with  Map  and  Illustrations,  $2  50. 

SHAKSPEARE.  The  Dramatic  Works  of  Shakspeare.  With  Notes.  En- 
gravings. 6  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $9  00.  2  vols.,  8vo,  Cloth,  $4  00; 
Sheep,  $5  00.  In  one  vol.,  8vo,  Sheep,  $4  00. 

CURTIS'S  LIFE  OF  BUCHANAN.  Life  of  James  Buchanan,  Fifteenth 
President  of  the  United  States.  By  GEORGE  TICKNOU  CURTIS.  With 
Two  Steel  Plate  Portraits.  2  vols.,  8vo,  Cloth,  Uncut  Edges  and  Gilt 
Tops,  $6  00. 

GENERAL  BEAUREGARD'S  MILITARY  OPERATIONS.  The  Mili- 
tary Operations  of  General  Beauregard  iu  the  War  between  the  States, 
1861  to  1865;  including  a  brief  Personal  Sketch,  and  a  Narrative  of  his 
Services  in  the  War  with  Mexico,  1846  to  1848.  By  ALFRED  ROMAN, 
formerly  Aide-de-Camp  on  the  Staff  of  General  Beauregard.  With  Por- 
traits, &c.  2  vols.,  8vo,  Cloth,  $7  00;  Sheep,  $9  00;  Half  Morocco, 
$11  00;  Full  Morocco,  $15  00.  (Sold  only  by  Subscription.) 

GIKSELER'S  ECCLESIASTICAL  HISTORY.  A  Text-Book  of  Church 
History.  By  Dr.  JOHN  C.  L.  GIKSELER.  Translated  from  the  Fourth 
Revised  German  Edition.  Revised  and  Edited  by  Rev.  HENRY  B. 
SMITH,  D.D.  Vols.  L,  II.,  III.,  and  IV.,  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  25  each; 
Vol.  V.,  8vo,  Cloth,  $3  00.  Complete  Sets,  5  vols.,  Slicep,  $14  50; 
Half  Calf,  $23  25. 


8  Valuable  Worts  for  Public  and  Private  Libraries. 

ALISON'S  HISTORY  OF  EUKOPE.  From  the  Commencement  of  the 
French  Revolution,  in  1789,  to  the  Accession  of  Louis  Napoleon,  in  1852. 
8  vols.,  8vo,  Cloth,  $16  00. 

NEANDER'S  LIFE  OF  CHRIST.  The  Life  of  Christ ;  in  its  Historical 
Connection  and  its  Historical  Development.  By  AUGUSTUS  NEANDER. 
Translated  from  the  Fourth  German  Edition  by  Professors  M'CLINTOCK 
&  BLUMENTHAL,  of  Dickinson  College.  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

NORDHOFF'S  COMMUNISTIC  SOCIETIES  OF  THE  UNITED 
STATES.  The  Communistic  Societies  of  the  United  States,  from  Per- 
sonal Visit  and  Observation  :  including  Detailed  Accounts  of  the  Econo- 
mists, Zoarites,  Shakers,  the  Amana,  Oneida,  Bethel,  Aurora,  Icarian,  and 
other  existing  Societies.  By  CHARLES  NORDHOFF.  Illustrations.  8vo, 
Cloth,  $4  00. 

GRIFFIS'S  JAPAN.  The  Mikado's  Empire :  Book  I.  History  of  Japan, 
from  G60  B.C.  to  1872  A.D.  Book  II.  Personal  Experiences,  Observa- 
tions, and  Studies  in  Japan,  from  1870  to  1874.  By  W.  E.  GRIFFIS. 
Copiously  Illustrated.  8vo,  Cloth,  $4  00;  Half  Calf,  $6  25. 

SMILES'S  HISTORY  OF  THE  HUGUENOTS.  The  Huguenots:  their 
Settlements,  Churches,  and  Industries  in  England  and  Ireland.  By 
SAMUEL  SMILES.  With  an  Appendix  relating  to  the  Huguenots  in 
America.  Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 

SMILES'S  HUGUENOTS  AFTER  THE  REVOCATION.  The  Hu- 
guenots in  France  after  the  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes ;  with  n 
Visit  to  the  Country  of  the  Vaudois.  By  SAMUEL  SMILES.  Crown  8vo, 
Cloth,  $2  00. 

SMILES'S  LIFE  OF  THE  STEPHENSONS.  The  Life  of  George  Ste- 
phenson,  and  of  his  Son,  Robert  Stephenson ;  comprising,  also,  a  History 
of  the  Invention  and  Introduction  of  the  Railway  Locomotive.  By  SAM- 
UEL SMILES.  Illustrated.  8vo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

SCHLIEMANN'S  ILIOS.  Ilios,  the  City  and  Country  of  the  Trojans.  A 
Narrative  of  the  Most  Recent  Discoveries  and  Researches  made  on  the 
Plain  of  Troy.  By  Dr.  HENRY  SCHLIKMAXN.  Maps,  Plans,  and  Illustra- 
tions. Imperial  8vo,  Illuminated  Cloth,  $12  00;  Half  Morocco,  $15  00. 

SCHLIEMANN'S  TROJA.  Troja.  Results  of  the  Latest  Researches  and 
Discoveries  on  the  Site  of  Homer's  Troy,  and  in  the  Heroic  Tumuli  and 
other  Sites,  made  in  th«  Year  1882,  and  a  Nan-alive  of  a  Journey  in  the 
Troad  in  1881.  By  Dr.  HENRY  SCHLIEMANN.  Preface  by  Professor 
A.  II.  Sayce.  With  Woodcuts,  Maps,  and  Plans.  8vo,  Cloth,  $7  50. 


1  'nhuible  Works  for  Public  and  Private  Libraries.  9 

SCIIWEINFURTH'S  HEART  OF  AFRICA.  Three  Years'  Travels  and 
Adventures  in  the  Unexplored  Regions  of  the  Centre  of  Africa — from 
18G8  to  1871.  By  GEORGE  SCHWEINFURTH.  Translated  by  ELLEN 
E.  FKEWER.  Illustrated.  2  vols.,  8vo,  Cloth,  $8  00. 

NORTON'S  STUDIES  OF  CHURCH -BUILDING.  Historical  Studies 
of  Church-Building  in  the  Middle  Ages.  Venice,  Siena,  Florence.  By 
CHARLES  ELIOT  NORTON.  Svo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

THE  VOYAGE  OF  THE  "  CHALLENGER."  The  Atlantic:  an  Ac- 
count of  the  General  Results  of  the  Voyage  during  1873,  and  the  Early 
Part  of  1876.  By  Sir  WYVILLE  THOMSON,  K.C.B.,  F.R.S.  Illustrated. 
2  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $12  00. 

BOSWELL'S  JOHNSON.  The  Life  of  Samuel  Johnson,  LL.D.,  includ- 
ing a  Journal  of  a  Tour  to  the  Hebrides.  By  JAMES  BOSWELL.  Edited 
by  J.  W.  CROKER,  LL.D.,  F.R.S.  With  a  Portrait  of  Boswell.  2  vols., 
Svo,  Cloth,  $4  00 ;  Sheep,  $5  00. 

JOHNSON'S  COMPLETE  WORKS.  The  Works  of  Samuel  Johnson, 
LL.D.  With  an  Essay  on  his  Life  and  Genius,  by  A.  MURPHY.  2 
vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $4  00;  Sheep,  $5  00. 

ADDISON'S  COMPLETE  WORKS.  The  Works  of  Joseph  Addison, 
embracing  the  whole  of  the  Spectator.  3  vols.,  Svo,  Cloth,  $6  00. 

OUTLINES  OF  ANCIENT  HISTORY.  From  the  Earliest  Times  to  the 
Fall  of  the  Western  Roman  Empire,  A.D.  470.  Embracing  the  Egyp- 
tians, Chaldacans,  Assyrians,  Babylonians,  Hebrews,  Phoenicians,  Medes, 
Persians,  Greeks,  and  Romans.  By  P.  V.  N.  MYERS,  A.M.,  President  of 
Farmers'  College,  Ohio.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  75. 

BROUGHAM'S  AUTOBIOGRAPHY.  Life  and  Times  of  Henry,  Lord 
Brougham.  Written  by  Himself.  3  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $6  00. 

BLUNTS  BEDOUIN  TRIBES  OF  THE  EUPHRATES.  Bedouin 
Tribes  of  the  Euphrates.  By  LADY  ANNE  BLCNT.  Edited,  with  a 
Preface  and  some  Account  of  the  Arabs  and  their  Horses,  by  W.  S.  B. 
Map  and  Sketches  by  the  Author.  Svo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

THOMPSON'S  PAPACY  AND  THE  CIVIL  POWER.  The  Papacy 
and  the  Civil  Power.  By  the  Hon.  R.  W.  THOMPSON.  Crown  Svo, 
Cloth,  $3  00. 

ENUI.ISH  CORRESPONDENCE.  Four  Centuries  of  English  Letters. 
Selections  from  the  Correspondence  of  One  Hundred  and  Fifty  Writers, 
from  the  Period  of  the  Pnston  Letters  to  the  Present  Day.  Edited  by 
W.  BAPTISTE  SCOONES.  12mo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 


10  Valuable  Works  for  Public  and  Private  Libraries. 

THE  POETS  AND  POETRY  OF  SCOTLAND :  From  the  Earliest  to 
the  Present  Time.  Comprising  Characteristic  Selections  from  the  Works 
of  the  more  Noteworthy  Scottish  Poets,  with  Biographical  and  Critical 
Notices.  By  JAMES  GRANT  WILSON.  Witli  Portraits  on  Steel.  2  vols., 
8vo,  Cloth,  $10  00;  Gilt  Edges,  $11  00. 

THE  STUDENT'S  SERIES.     Maps  and  Illustrations.     12mo,  Cloth  : 

FRANCE. — GIBBON. — GREECE. — ROME  (by  LIDDELL). — OLD  TESTA- 
MENT HISTORY. — NEW  TESTAMENT  HISTORY. — STRICKLAND'S  QUEENS 
OF  ENGLAND. — ANCIENT  HISTORY  OF  THE  EAST. — HALLAM'S  MIDDLE 
AGES. — HALLAM'S  CONSTITUTIONAL  HISTORY  OF  ENGLAND. — LYELL'S 
ELEMENTS  OF  GEOLOGY. — MERIVALE'S  GENERAL  HISTORY  OF  ROME. — 
Cox's  GENERAL  HISTORY  OF  GREECE.  —  CLASSICAL  DICTIONARY.  — 
SKEAT'S  ETYMOLOGICAL  DICTIONARY.  $1  25  per  volume. 

LEWIS'S  HISTORY  OF  GERMANY. — ECCLESIASTICAL  HISTORY. — HUME'S 
ENGLAND.  $1  50  per  volume. 

BOURNE'S  LOCKE.  The  Life  of  John  Locke.  By  H.  R.  Fox  BOURNE. 
2  vols.,  8vo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

COLERIDGE'S  WORKS.  The  Complete  Works  of  Samuel  Taylor  Cole- 
ridge. With  an  Introductory  Essay  upon  his  Philosophical  and  Theolog- 
ical Opinions.  Edited  by  Professor  W.  G.  T.  SHEDD.  With  Steel  Por- 
trait, and  an  Index.  7  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $2  00  per  volume;  $12  00 
per  set. 

CAMERON'S  ACROSS  AFRICA.  Across  Africa.  By  VEIINEY  LOVETT 
CAMERON.  Map  and  Illustrations.  8vo,  Cloth,  $5  00. 

EARTH'S  NORTH  AND  CENTRAL  AFRICA.  Travels  and  Discov- 
eries in  North  and  Central  Africa:  being  a  Journal  of  an  Expedition  un- 
dertaken under  the  Auspices  of  H.B.M.'s  Government,  in  the  Years 
1849-1855.  By  HENRY  EARTH,  Ph.D.,  D.C.L.  Illustrated.  3  vols., 
8vo,  Cloth,  $12  00. 

THOMSON'S  SOUTHERN  PALESTINE  AND  JERUSALEM.  South- 
ern Palestine  and  Jerusalem.  Biblical  Illustrations  drawn  from  the  Man- 
ners and  Customs,  the  Scenes  and  Scenery,  of  the  Holy  Land.  By  W.  M. 
THOMSON,  D.D.  140  Illustrations  and  Maps.  Square  8vo,  Cloth,  $6  00 ; 
Sheep,  $7  00;  Half  Morocco,  $8  50;  Full  Morocco,  Gilt  Edges,  $10  00. 

THOMSON'S  CENTRAL  PALESTINE  AND  PHOENICIA.  Central 
Palestine  and  Phrenicia.  Biblical  Illustrations  drawn  from  the  Manners 
and  Customs,  the  Scenes  and  Scenery,  of  the  Holy  Land.  By  W.  M. 
THOMSON,  D.D.  130  Illustrations  and  Maps.  8vo,  Cloth,  $6  00; 
Sheep,  $7  00;  Half  Morocco,  $8  50;  Full  Morocco,  $10  00. 


Valuable  Works  for  Public  and  Private  Librariet.  1 1 

DARWIN'S  VOYAGE  OF  A  NATURALIST.  Voyage  of  a  Naturalist. 
Journal  of  Researches  into  the  Natural  History  and  Geology  of  the  Coun- 
tries Visited  during  the  Voyage  of  H.M.S.  Beagle,  round  the  World.  By 
CHARLKS  DARWIN.  2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 

CYCLOPEDIA  OF  BRITISH  AND  AMERICAN  POETRY.  Edited 
by  EPES  SARGENT.  Royal  8vo,  Illuminated  Cloth,  Colored  Edges,  $4  50. 

NICHOLS'S  ART  EDUCATION.  Art  Education  Applied  to  Industry. 
By  G.  W.NICHOLS.  Illustrated.  8vo,  Cloth,  $4  00;  Half  Calf,  |6  25. 

CARLYLE'S  FREDERICK  THE  GREAT.  History  of  Friedrich  II., 
called  Frederick  the  Great.  By  THOMAS  CARLYI.K.  Portraits,  Maps, 
Plans,  &c.  6  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $7  50. 

CARLYLE'S  FRENCH  REVOLUTION.  The  French  Revolution:  a 
History.  By  THOMAS  CARLYLE.  2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $2  60. 

CARLYLE'S  OLIVER  CROMWELL.  Oliver  Cromwell's  Letters  and 
Speeches,  including  the  Supplement  to  the  First  Edition.  With  Elucida- 
tions. By  THOMAS  CARLYLE.  2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

PAST  AND  PRESENT,  CHARTISM.  AND  SARTOR  RESARTUS. 
By  THOMAS  CARLYLE.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  2f». 

EARLY  KINGS  OF  NORWAY,  AND  THE  PORTRAITS  OF  JOHN 
KNOX.  By  THOMAS  CARLYLE.  12mo,  Cloth,  $  I  25. 

DAVIS'S  CARTHAGE.  Carthage  and  her  Remains :  being  an  Account 
of  the  Excavations  and  Researches  on  the  Site  of  the  Phoenician  Metropo- 
lis in  Africa  and  other  Adjacent  Places.  By  Dr.  N.  DAVIS.  Illus- 
trated. 8vo,  Cloth,  $4  00 ;  Half  Calf,  $C>  25. 

BULWER'S  LIFE  AND  LETTERS.  Life,  Letters,  and  Literary  Re- 
mains of  Edward  Bulwer,  Lord  Lytton.  By  his  Son,  the  EARL  OF  LYT- 
TOK(" Owen  Meredith").  Volume  I.  Illustrated.  12mo,  Cloth,  $2  75. 

BULWER'S  HORACE.  The  Odes  and  Epodes  of  Horace.  A  Metrical 
Translation  into  English.  With  Introduction  and  Commentaries.  With 
Latin  Text  from  the  Editions  of  Orelli,  Macleane,  and  Yonge.  12mo, 
Cloth,  $  1  7.-.. 

IH  LWER'S  MISCELLANEOUS  WORKS.  Miscellaneous  Prose  Works 
of  Edward  Bulwer,  Lord  Lytton.  In  Two  Volumes.  12mo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 

EATON'S  CIVIL  SERVICE.  Civil  Service  in  Great  Britain.  A  History 
of  Abuses  and  Reforms,  and  their  Bearing  upon  American  Politics.  By 
DOKMAN  B.  EATON.  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 


12  Valuable  Works  for  Public  and  Private  Libraries. 

TROLLOPE'S  AUTOBIOGRAPHY.  An  Autobiography.  By  ANTHONY 
TROLLOPE.  With  a  Portrait.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  25. 

TROLLOPE'S  CICERO.  Life  of  Cicero.  By  ANTHONY  TROLLOPE.  2 
vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

PERRY'S  ENGLISH  LITERATURE.  English  Literature  in  the  Eigh- 
teenth Century.  By  THOMAS  SERGEANT  PERKY.  12mo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 

PERRY'S  HISTORY  OF  THE  CHURCH  OF  ENGLAND.  A  History 
of  the  English  Church,  from  the  Accession  of  Henry  VIII.  to  the  Si- 
lencing of  Convocation.  By  G.  G.  PERRY,  M.A.  With  a  Sketch  of  the 
History  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  in  the  United  States,  by  J. 
A.  SPENCEK,  S.T.D.  Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

ABBOTT'S  HISTORY   OF    THE    FRENCH    REVOLUTION.     The 

French  Revolution  of  1789,  as  Viewed  in  the  Light  of  Republican  In- 
stitutions. By  JOHN  S.  C.  ABBOTT.  Illustrated.  8vo,  Cloth,  $5  00; 
Sheep,  $5  50;  Half  Calf,  $7  25. 

ABBOTT'S  NAPOLEON.  The  History  of  Napoleon  Bonaparte.  By 
JOHN  S.  C.  ABBOTT.  Maps,  Illustrations,  and  Portraits.  2  vols.,  8vo, 
Cloth,  $10  00;  Sheep,  $11  00;  Half  Calf,  $H  50. 

ABBOTT'S  NAPOLEON  AT  ST.  HELENA.  Napoleon  at  St.  Helena ; 
or,  Anecdotes  and  Conversations  of  the  Emperor  during  the  Years  of  his 
Captivity.  Collected  from  the  Memorials  of  Las  Casas,  O'Meara,  Mon- 
tholon,  Antommarchi,  and  others.  By  JOHN  S.  C.  ABBOTT.  Illustrated. 
8vo,  Cloth,  $5  00 ;  Sheep,  $5  50 ;  Half  Calf,  $7  25. 

ABBOTT'S  FREDERICK  THE  GREAT.  The  History  of  Frederick  the 
Second,  called  Frederick  the  Great.  By  JOHN  S.  C.  ABBOTT.  Illustra- 
ted. 8vo,  Cloth,  $5  00;  Half  Calf,  $7  25. 

M'CARTHY'S  HISTORY  OF  ENGLAND.  A  History  of  Our  Own 
Times,  from  the  Accession  of  Queen  Victoria  to  the  General  Election  of 
1880.  By  JUSTIN  M'CARTHY.  2  vols.,  12mo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

WATSON'S  MARCUS  AURELIUS  ANTONINUS.  By  PAUL  BAR- 
RON  WATSON.  Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

FOLK-LORE  OF  SHAKESPEARE.  By  the  Rev.  T.  F.  THISELTON 
DYER,  M.A.,  Oxon.,  Author  of  "British  Popular  Customs,  Past  and 
Present,"  etc.  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

THOMSON'S  THE  GREAT  ARGUMENT.  The  Great  Argument ;  or, 
Jesus  Christ  in  the  Old  Testament.  By  W.  II.  THOMSON,  M.A.,  M.D. 
Crown  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  00. 


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